A tip that I would add. When making brake lines, I try to make the brake caliper line into the caliper lower than the bleed port in the caliper, and the routing far side of any given section should be lower than the master and any section of the line. ie start at caliper and try to ONLY go up to the master, no high points for air to get trapped in between the caliper and the master. Makes bleeding the brakes 100x easier.
I dont mean to be so off topic but does anybody know of a tool to get back into an instagram account? I stupidly forgot my account password. I would appreciate any tricks you can offer me!
@Jaime Imran thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
I have to admit that this was by far the best video that I seen involving a part of a build. The flat out best complete brake line installation with such ease a clean as heck. I love this video. Thanks.
great video. good information and production. just a note. NPT stands for "National Pipe Tapered" as opposed NPS which are "straight" threads. it's common for many to think the "T" in NPT stands for "Thread" but important for the DIY'er to know the difference so the correct fittings are used. Thanks again for making video
Been there. Done that. I know your frustration. Not only that, I've soldered a seven wire connector only to discover I forgot to put the back shell and strain relief on first. Oh well, practice makes perfect, right?
Hey just came across your video. Well done. I'm a retired U.S. Navy Jet Mech/Search and Rescue/Vertical Replenishment AirCrewman. On one Det I was rushing to complete a line and was under the gun to complete it. I had told the Boss no problem we'll make it. Then I did exactly what you were talking about with regards to the sleeve. I just made my launch time for a major replenishment with the carrier. I kicked myself in the a** over it and my det didn't let me forget it. When your mouth writes checks your a** best cash them.
@@AutoEdits THX I did a few others in my career but ran about 99% on cashing the checks but still hated messing up. Others could say hey sh*t happens and walk away me?? It would drive me nuts not doing it right the first time.
I know this video is 7 years old but I'm kind of surprised you never heard nickel copper at that point I upgraded the brakes on my 92 Mustang 10 years ago and used all nickel copper lines on that. I had been using it about six months prior on side work and my beater vehicles. Stuffs a life saver on the New England coast I'll tell you.
Great video. Thanks. I did want to mention that I've had terrible success with using pressure switches in-line. They seem to work fine at first, but after a while, you need to press harder and harder on the brakes to close the circuit. I even found a "low pressure" switch on line and installed it with the same end result after a short time. I became so paranoid about losing brake lights that I installed a small indicator on my dash that only lit when the signal was sent to the the actual brake lights. Ultimately, I installed a mechanical switch which solved everything, but I kept the in dash indicator.
Great video. Thanks. My only observation is since I am new to all this it would have been good to see close up shots of the rivnut sequence. I can always look elsewhere for that, however. Thanks again.
Thank you so much. I enjoyed your video. You made it look simple. On the farm I quickly found out that teflon tape and hydraulic fluid are a no-win combination. There are pastes out there, such as one from Loctite, that work well but the white stuff on a roll should not be used. Thank you for making such an informative video.
Good tip. Interesting to hear about the teflon tape not working for you. It's still holding fine on this application but I'll look to a paste on future stuff.
@@AutoEdits Redid all of the lines on an old tractor with a nice new hydraulic spool. I made that mistake of using teflon tape and then two days later I spent half a day fishing all of those little pieces of half dissolved tape out of the insides of the spool. Of course, after the fact all of the hydraulic stores that make up hoses said, "Don't you know that you aren't supposed to ever..".
Very nice video, I am doing a 70 Ford F100 with Crown Victoria front and rear end and CV power brake booster, By watching this I now can build my own distribution block. Now I don't need to purchase a brass distribution block, will do my own line routing like in the video all should work out for my application.
Great video...thanks for posting it. I am currently building a racing car and am faced with fabbing up a brake system. I was considering using braided steel/teflon lined hose in 100% of the system, rather than alternating between the braided hose and hard lines. It would have a lot of advantages...fewer joints....complete flexibility....and the braided hose is actually tougher and less likely to be damaged than hard lines...because it is immune to vibration damage that can fracture a hard line that is not properly designed and mounted. It is also less likely to be crimped or permanently crushed due to damage. I got a lot of predictable advice "use hard lines as much as possible or you will have a soft pedal...." etc. While pondering all this.....I was looking at tech photos of a modern DTM racing car....arguably the highest technology racing in the world today (less restricted by rules than F1)....and the brake system on this car was plumbed 100% with braided steel hose. I figured if they didn't have a mushy pedal....neither would I....and decided to forego the hard line thing altogether. I agree with the poster below....it is laughable that Wilwood still sells brake system parts plumbed with NPT. Why they do that is beyond me.
no need to with AN lines. thats for antiquated UNF type threads that seal by squishing the tube itself. on AN lines the fittings are what seal it which is why they are much more common on high dollar high pressure setups. (5000psi aircraft hydraulic systems even use AN) on his hard lines he did double flare though. its all done in 1 step with that tool he used when he did finally go to hardlines
If cost weren't a factor, is there any disadvantage to using the braided-steel flexible brake lines for the whole system instead of routing this hard line (be it steel or NiCopp)? The inner diameter of the hard lines seems way smaller than the braided lines - does this have a big effect on your brakes? Is it important to have hard lines for hydraulic reasons, or just mechanical sturdiness?
When it comes to hydraulic lines you want to minimize the use of soft lines. Soft lines are less durable and can expand under pressure. Using too much soft line can make the system feel "spongy" under hard braking. You want as much energy transferred to your brake piston instead of being wasted on hose expansion.
Awesome! I have 1965 mustang with a new set of wilwood brakes in which I need to plumb new lines to the front and rear your video helps out a lot. Thanks!
19 years old, finally got my dream car! 68 mustang coupe. It’s a 3 speed on the floor with the inline six(v8 swap eventually) but rn gonna make it handle better! I love your videos! Hope my car can be as much a project as your!
Love this video, it kind of makes me feel better knowing that others are using cuprinol (copper/nickel) lines on their cars. I have installed this on my brake and clutch systems on my 65 MGB, and I just love how it goes together. Great idea on using Rivnuts to secure the line clips. I am going to utilize some of these as well. Thanks for posting and great looking car.
Pissing it laughing...first the dog interrupting. And then flaring and forgetting the fitting. Did it twice on same damn flare. Best friend still teases me.
Great video. I'll definitely be playing this over and over out in the garage as I plumb my system. (Great video quality too, some guys look like they're filming in a dark closet through a pair of pantyhose.)
@@mdplemons I used one of these but as I searched I could only find this double order and it's expensive www.summitracing.com/parts/hdt-lk-005 It's basically a -3 bulkhead
My problem is that I had to cut out the trunk floor for a coilover suspension that I installed. Now I have to be creative about where to mount the flex/hard junction.
@autoedit...sure wish you would give more detail in the narrative about the parts and tools you used. I had never heard of Rivet Nuts until I watched this video...what tool are you using and where did you get it from? What about the anchors you used to attach the hardline to the firewall (I think you said you got them from Lokar)? I am in the middle of making the lines for the brake system on my 65 Fastback and you have me rethinking my approach. I have a conventional Master Cylinder and adjustable Proportioning valve. Wondering if I can use AN fittings like you did instead of the conventional break fittings.
I used the plumbes of an old porsche in my car . And parts (stainless) from a truck. Cleaned everything, and they are good quality. Had to emend some things, machinist work, but not big deal. Free stuff,I used to rebuild things from scratch.
Solid question, this setup has individual master cylinders for the front and rear brakes so it uses a balance bar on the pedal to adjust brake proportioning.
Enjoyed the video. Nice post processing and use of multiple camera angles as well; many folks don't know what all goes into that part of making these videos. I've got a Ford project of another nature going at the moment and can relate to the brake plumbing, suspension and other task required to get these old vehicles back on the road and in tip top shape. Mine's a '67 F100 Pickup. Keep up the good work, I've subscribed and will be keeping up with your work for sure. Take care, Clay
Howdy Clay, sorry I missed this comment when you left it but thanks so much for the nice words. I hope your F100 project is going well...I really love that era of Ford trucks!
I have a similar flare tool. I was going to use SS line but switched to NiCopp. I had ABSOLUTELY no luck double flaring it. Perhaps it's easier with a single flare and AN fittings. SS line is hard stuff.
Yes , I too have screwed up . Just finished plumbing my 68 Cougar project . Forgot fitting , fitting backwards , bent line with fitting on wrong side of bend , etc........ but it looks great when done .
How long were the flexible lines that go to calipers? Standard Ford (single piston) brakes have Banjo fittings. Likely keep them for this round. Great Video!!
At 13:10, the length from the burn hole ( where the upper control arm lube was done - many have this hole), to lower frame rail is about 9" ... so ... looks like twice that or 18". Going with that. Will report back after shipment from pegasus!!
Locktite hydraulic sealant would be a good replacement for the Teflon tape in this application plus the added advantage of not having unsightly white tape on the fittings
Totally wrong never use single flares on brake pipes always double flare also never use thread nylon tape on brakes all dangerous practices 49 years as a brake specialist
Jason, great and informative video, thank you! Do you happen to have the part number or model number for the master cylinder? Appreciate it if you could share it. Thanks
another great vid, as I watch this I'm installing the 1 1/8" TCP front anti roll bar on the 69 fastback. I have their power rack and pinion conversion on the way. Their coilover conversion is on and Baer 6P brakes are waiting to go on. Your vids really lay out what I'm in for and help me as I go along doing this same build on my car. and as always.. Pinto is a badass. I look forward to future vids.
Very good question. Since this pedal setup has discreet master cylinders for front and rear... I adjust the bias right there on the pedals... it's pretty cool. Otherwise, yes a standard prop valve would be needed on the rear lines!
Looks fantastic! One question though. The standard brake flaring tool is 45 degrees. Most AN fittings are 60 degrees. How did you deal with the difference? Is your flaring tool 60 degrees?
Great video. You got me motivated to start doing mine now. After searching around on the internet, I can't seem to find the an fittings or the backing portion of your line clamps. Do you happen to have a link to them, or at least point me in the right direction? Thanks
Hi Jason, just came across your old video and would like to know what your source(s) were or are for the NI-Copp Tubing, braided hoses, bulkhead fittings and cones an B-nuts and sleeves??? Super clean installation, any modifications to the system that you have done since the initial install Great Work Cheers Kevin
Hey Jason Thanks again 🙏 I’m in the process of race prepping my 1977 Datsun 280Z for SCCA Club racing and the Willwood pieces are the best I’ve ever seen and are such a great upgrade to a four piston caliper setup front and rear and dumping the drum brakes. No Brake Fade issues lap after lap. Cheers Kevin Back to the shop
I wanted to go with the AN fittings and that's the only way for those. Since it's a well maintained hot rod... I've had good luck with those fittings, even for daily driver duties.
@@AutoEdits ah that's fair man. I just used the stock master in my build, when the forged motor goes in I'm sure I'll need to upgrade to something with abit more oomft. That wilwood set you have looks unreal, remember the part numbers or anything?
@@Simonstockton82 For sure... the Wilwood catalog has changed a bunch of time since this video and they have even better stuff... just search for what year car and they will offer a kit for it. Plus if you want to keep the double flare... the Wilwood calipers have any number of adapters to make it work with your system. They even helped me do the math on what master cylinder is right for my application!
Wow I know this was seven years ago and you probably won't answer but there's some brake lines that are braided like and their flexible where'd you get those brake lines at I could really use some if you could please let me know I'd really really really appreciate it Bud thank you very much very good job
Awesome video Jason! I have always preferred using stainless steel, but will definitely try the NiCopp or nickel copper lines over steel lines. Enjoy your journey with Large Marge. She looks cool! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Great Videos, You're inspiring me to document my build. Nice sanitary work, I like the direction you've gone. Thanks for doing a nice thorough job on explaining as you go.
I forgot to ask... I didn't see a proportioning valve. Can you please explain when 1 is needed? Is it only for disc / drum combo or do all 4 disc cars need them also?
Yes, most systems need a proportioning valve... but the Wilwood pedals I use in this one operate separate master cylinders for front/rear and you can adjust them by a bar on the levers.
very nice set up. I have been playing with the idea of upgrading some of my brake system on my 85 k20 suburban. I would keep most of the hard lines but use flex lines off the master and the calipers
Great video! I’m a DIY guy also. I’m just a little confused on what fittings to search for. Is it npt fittings or an-3 fittings or is it all together npt an-3 fittings? I’d appreciate any help.
If you're really new... stick with inverted flare fittings at the ends. I used -3 AN for most of the fittings in this install and the only NPT was into the calipers bodies and master cylinders.
I hadn't realised the Nicop line was available in the US now! I recommended it to a friend in VA a year or two ago for his Jeep and he couldn't find it. I myself have been using it in the UK since the early 80's when I first got into building cars, although I'm not sure when it appeared on the market, but I do recall it was quite a new thing at that time and have used it ever since! Although if I remember correctly it was a Swedish invention because back then there was only one brand and it came marked made in Sweden with a Swedish trade mark logo!
Very nice! But one question; is there any need for a proportioning valve? I ask because I got a Dodge ram 1500 that's giving me brake problems and wearing out brake pads and front rotors really badly and I think the proportioning valve and abs or combination valve rather maybe the problem and I looked it up and I just saying they don't make it anymore. Lucky me
What year Ram? If I were in your shoes... I'd order a replacement master cylinder and get the PowerStop Brake kit I put on my Ram... th-cam.com/video/__EsW2uwEDo/w-d-xo.html Or just take your calipers off and make sure the sliders are properly lubed because I had that happen once th-cam.com/video/gqIoTpRneKo/w-d-xo.html
I would also add, coming from being a diesel tech on tractor trailers, that we were taught in brake class to use liquid tephlon vs tape bc it’s possible if a small piece in in the air stream, or in your case fluid stream, break off in the system, it could cause brake system failure. OCD is beating me up over that run on sentence.
Question: What about brake proportioning? I'm not familiar with the Willwood master, but generally, when you are not using the factory metering block, wouldn't you have to install an adjustable proportioning valve into the system to ensure the correct brake pressure is metered to the front and rear of the car?
You're right! This video was getting so long I didn't include the segment on the Wilwood pedals that have a proportioning bar to adjust how much pressure on each master cylinder. I'll show a separate video on those guys. Good call.
Great video. Just a suggestion, next time you might wanna consider placing the T split for the front brakes in the middle of the firewall of the car in order to have equal length brake lines to both front wheels, as fluid as good as it is still has some dampening to it. Ideally you would wanna place the T above the engine, for servicing purposes.
Hi Jason! I really dig the master cylinder set up you have there. It's a really rad setup and really cleans up the engine bay. But I was wondering how they're linked under the dash and to the brake pedal. Are there links to a kit that you can provide that accomplished that, or offer some insight into how you linked them together on the far side of the firewall? Also, are they powered brakes, or manual?
Thanks! Here's the video on the pedal install... now that the car is a driver... I've been thrilled with the setup. th-cam.com/video/1xX3_LmfXTU/w-d-xo.html
I usually skip to these tutorials because it takes a long time to get to the point, but you sir kept me interested from start to finish. you diffidently got me pumped to keep working on my car. btw where did you get those flex lines?
Great video just one question why the single flare over a double or the bubble i personally would of thought the double flare to be stronger and perform better than a single ??????????????????????
That’s a lot of ???’s I chose single flare because I wanted to use -3 AN fittings. That’s all, yes double flare is much more reliable... just a design choice.
Thx for being such an inspiration with this build been following all along and just love how this beast is coming along. Makes me always want work and continue my build on my fox body mustang!
I just got them from Summit racing .com and you have to buy them a bit piece by piece... I'll look through later to see if I can find an easier grouping.
Nice video... would be nice to source your parts in the description so others who want to do something similar will know what you bought. Otherwise, great info. thanks
Very nice job Dude, the people that design cars don't know this or maybe they do and do it just to cause early failures however dissimilar metals in contact with each other erode sometime very quickly, even steel and stainless steel. One of the most volatile connections is Aluminum and Copper since it been two years since you made this video I would be interest to see what those connections look like. I this case strong nylon material would be better.
That beer at the end of the day when you have actually accomplished something the way you have thought and planned it through, priceless.
You know it!
A tip that I would add. When making brake lines, I try to make the brake caliper line into the caliper lower than the bleed port in the caliper, and the routing far side of any given section should be lower than the master and any section of the line. ie start at caliper and try to ONLY go up to the master, no high points for air to get trapped in between the caliper and the master. Makes bleeding the brakes 100x easier.
Good suggestion.
I dont mean to be so off topic but does anybody know of a tool to get back into an instagram account?
I stupidly forgot my account password. I would appreciate any tricks you can offer me!
@Jaime Imran thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Jaime Imran It did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thank you so much you saved my account !
@Karter Stanley glad I could help :)
I have to admit that this was by far the best video that I seen involving a part of a build. The flat out best complete brake line installation with such ease a clean as heck. I love this video. Thanks.
great video. good information and production. just a note.
NPT stands for "National Pipe Tapered" as opposed NPS which are "straight" threads. it's common for many to think the "T" in NPT stands for "Thread" but important for the DIY'er to know the difference so the correct fittings are used.
Thanks again for making video
Really good info. Thank you!
the most beautiful flares happen when the fitting isn't on the line... and usually when i cant spare 1/4" to cut it back
Been there. Done that. I know your frustration. Not only that, I've soldered a seven wire connector only to discover I forgot to put the back shell and strain relief on first. Oh well, practice makes perfect, right?
huh, every bit as good of a production and content as a sponsored show you'd find on TV. subbing. thanks for the vid.
WELCOME and thanks so much for the nice comment!
HELPED ME OUT TREMENDOUSLY ON MY 1980 F100 BUILD I WAS STUCK BUT THIS GAVE ME THE DIRECTION AND MODIVATION I NEEDED ! PLUS 1 SUBSCRIBER TODAY !
Hey just came across your video. Well done. I'm a retired U.S. Navy Jet Mech/Search and Rescue/Vertical Replenishment AirCrewman. On one Det I was rushing to complete a line and was under the gun to complete it. I had told the Boss no problem we'll make it. Then I did exactly what you were talking about with regards to the sleeve. I just made my launch time for a major replenishment with the carrier. I kicked myself in the a** over it and my det didn't let me forget it. When your mouth writes checks your a** best cash them.
Great share!
@@AutoEdits THX I did a few others in my career but ran about 99% on cashing the checks but still hated messing up. Others could say hey sh*t happens and walk away me?? It would drive me nuts not doing it right the first time.
Doing it for my first time tomorrow. I've seen every tip now. Still dread it
Try to enjoy it... it's a big job but it's important and can be fun.
I know this video is 7 years old but I'm kind of surprised you never heard nickel copper at that point I upgraded the brakes on my 92 Mustang 10 years ago and used all nickel copper lines on that. I had been using it about six months prior on side work and my beater vehicles. Stuffs a life saver on the New England coast I'll tell you.
I’ve used those threaded inserts for 20+ years. I’m pretty sure Nutserts are the actual name. Great video.
Thanks!
Great video. Thanks. I did want to mention that I've had terrible success with using pressure switches in-line. They seem to work fine at first, but after a while, you need to press harder and harder on the brakes to close the circuit. I even found a "low pressure" switch on line and installed it with the same end result after a short time. I became so paranoid about losing brake lights that I installed a small indicator on my dash that only lit when the signal was sent to the the actual brake lights. Ultimately, I installed a mechanical switch which solved everything, but I kept the in dash indicator.
Great video. Thanks. My only observation is since I am new to all this it would have been good to see close up shots of the rivnut sequence. I can always look elsewhere for that, however. Thanks again.
Thank you for this. I had been dreading this part of my project 53 Bel Air, but I think I can go in with confidence now.
Awesome to hear! Good luck!
Thank you so much. I enjoyed your video. You made it look simple. On the farm I quickly found out that teflon tape and hydraulic fluid are a no-win combination. There are pastes out there, such as one from Loctite, that work well but the white stuff on a roll should not be used. Thank you for making such an informative video.
Good tip. Interesting to hear about the teflon tape not working for you. It's still holding fine on this application but I'll look to a paste on future stuff.
@@AutoEdits Redid all of the lines on an old tractor with a nice new hydraulic spool. I made that mistake of using teflon tape and then two days later I spent half a day fishing all of those little pieces of half dissolved tape out of the insides of the spool. Of course, after the fact all of the hydraulic stores that make up hoses said, "Don't you know that you aren't supposed to ever..".
Yep never use Teflon tape on brake lines with a proper double flare you do not need any sealant at all they will not leak
Man the break line fab sounded, intimidating, you made it look almost doable for a nube amateur like me. Thanks.
Thank you! That was a great video. I’m working on my first real project vehicle… a 1952 Chevy 3100. Your video will be a great help.
Glad it was helpful!
Very nice video, I am doing a 70 Ford F100 with Crown Victoria front and rear end and CV power brake booster, By watching this I now can build my own distribution block. Now I don't need to purchase a brass distribution block, will do my own line routing like in the video all should work out for my application.
Really glad to hear about your project! Thanks for the feedback.
Great video...thanks for posting it.
I am currently building a racing car and am faced with fabbing up a brake system. I was considering using braided steel/teflon lined hose in 100% of the system, rather than alternating between the braided hose and hard lines. It would have a lot of advantages...fewer joints....complete flexibility....and the braided hose is actually tougher and less likely to be damaged than hard lines...because it is immune to vibration damage that can fracture a hard line that is not properly designed and mounted. It is also less likely to be crimped or permanently crushed due to damage.
I got a lot of predictable advice "use hard lines as much as possible or you will have a soft pedal...." etc.
While pondering all this.....I was looking at tech photos of a modern DTM racing car....arguably the highest technology racing in the world today (less restricted by rules than F1)....and the brake system on this car was plumbed 100% with braided steel hose. I figured if they didn't have a mushy pedal....neither would I....and decided to forego the hard line thing altogether.
I agree with the poster below....it is laughable that Wilwood still sells brake system parts plumbed with NPT. Why they do that is beyond me.
Possibly. My fear with some of the super-fly race tech is that they only have to make it last a few hours at a time.
NiCu Is Great Working With!!....Plus I Live in the North East...Lots of Salt!!....Many Brake Lines!!
great setup, but shouldn't you be using a double flare hard-line?
no need to with AN lines. thats for antiquated UNF type threads that seal by squishing the tube itself. on AN lines the fittings are what seal it which is why they are much more common on high dollar high pressure setups. (5000psi aircraft hydraulic systems even use AN) on his hard lines he did double flare though. its all done in 1 step with that tool he used when he did finally go to hardlines
No equalizer??? Or is that built into your master??? Thanks ....working on a 23 T right now.
Yes, there's a balance bar on the pedal assembly since this setup has discrete master cylinders front and rear.
This was an awesome video. I can now go forward with confidence on my project. Gonna try that line as well. Thanks.
You can do it!
Awesome as always! Pups and Hotrods...so cool. Had to remake a wicked hard to make line loc line because I forgot to put the end on. Good catch. lol
+n20cpri LOL, yeah we all have been there glad to here from ya!
I'm glad this video is recommended to me. Now I'm a subscriber. Great video by the way.
Awesome, thank you!
We just used the nickel copper to redo all the brake lines on a customers 34 Ford. That stuff is great!
That's very cool to hear! Thanks for checking back!!!!
Quality of work is mind blowing. Well done!
Thank you very much! Have you seen the test drive video of this car?
Love your demo. You helped me immensely with a perspective I hadn’t thought of.
Great! Thanks so much for watching!
If cost weren't a factor, is there any disadvantage to using the braided-steel flexible brake lines for the whole system instead of routing this hard line (be it steel or NiCopp)? The inner diameter of the hard lines seems way smaller than the braided lines - does this have a big effect on your brakes? Is it important to have hard lines for hydraulic reasons, or just mechanical sturdiness?
When it comes to hydraulic lines you want to minimize the use of soft lines. Soft lines are less durable and can expand under pressure. Using too much soft line can make the system feel "spongy" under hard braking. You want as much energy transferred to your brake piston instead of being wasted on hose expansion.
You possibly could but because it is flexible and would expand under pressure it would give you a spongy soft pedal
Not much into car tinkering but I was very entertained anyway and I like your style and humour 👍
Well that's just cool to hear, thanks!
Great video. Not too sure I'd use aluminum fittings. I would have used stainless.
Awesome! I have 1965 mustang with a new set of wilwood brakes in which I need to plumb new lines to the front and rear your video helps out a lot. Thanks!
+Victor Y That's what were here for right!
19 years old, finally got my dream car! 68 mustang coupe. It’s a 3 speed on the floor with the inline six(v8 swap eventually) but rn gonna make it handle better! I love your videos! Hope my car can be as much a project as your!
Love this video, it kind of makes me feel better knowing that others are using cuprinol (copper/nickel) lines on their cars. I have installed this on my brake and clutch systems on my 65 MGB, and I just love how it goes together. Great idea on using Rivnuts to secure the line clips. I am going to utilize some of these as well. Thanks for posting and great looking car.
Pissing it laughing...first the dog interrupting.
And then flaring and forgetting the fitting. Did it twice on same damn flare. Best friend still teases me.
Nice!
Amazing video! I cant wait to redo all my brake lines when converting to Manual Brakes. Make it look a ton nicer!
Great video. I'll definitely be playing this over and over out in the garage as I plumb my system.
(Great video quality too, some guys look like they're filming in a dark closet through a pair of pantyhose.)
HA! Thanks... If you keep watching this series... this car is now on the road and a driver and the brake system has been working flawlessly!
@@AutoEdits Do you have anymore detail on the hard line to flex line connection in the back? That's where I'm at now.
@@mdplemons I used one of these but as I searched I could only find this double order and it's expensive www.summitracing.com/parts/hdt-lk-005 It's basically a -3 bulkhead
My problem is that I had to cut out the trunk floor for a coilover suspension that I installed. Now I have to be creative about where to mount the flex/hard junction.
@autoedit...sure wish you would give more detail in the narrative about the parts and tools you used. I had never heard of Rivet Nuts until I watched this video...what tool are you using and where did you get it from? What about the anchors you used to attach the hardline to the firewall (I think you said you got them from Lokar)? I am in the middle of making the lines for the brake system on my 65 Fastback and you have me rethinking my approach. I have a conventional Master Cylinder and adjustable Proportioning valve. Wondering if I can use AN fittings like you did instead of the conventional break fittings.
I used the plumbes of an old porsche in my car . And parts (stainless) from a truck.
Cleaned everything, and they are good quality. Had to emend some things, machinist work, but not big deal.
Free stuff,I used to rebuild things from scratch.
Learned much from your video. But am puzzled why the install did not seem to include a proportioning valve or combination valve?
Solid question, this setup has individual master cylinders for the front and rear brakes so it uses a balance bar on the pedal to adjust brake proportioning.
Seriously phenomenal editing on this video. Subscribed and checking out your other stuff now. Large Marge's brake lines look nice!
Enjoyed the video. Nice post processing and use of multiple camera angles as well; many folks don't know what all goes into that part of making these videos. I've got a Ford project of another nature going at the moment and can relate to the brake plumbing, suspension and other task required to get these old vehicles back on the road and in tip top shape. Mine's a '67 F100 Pickup. Keep up the good work, I've subscribed and will be keeping up with your work for sure. Take care, Clay
Howdy Clay, sorry I missed this comment when you left it but thanks so much for the nice words.
I hope your F100 project is going well...I really love that era of Ford trucks!
Great video. Such a refreshing change from all the other DIY vids. Thanks!
Thank you... thank you very much!!!!!
once again I am blown away. you do such nice work Jason! Oh and the nut riviter is one of my favorite tools. - Ronnie
+Ron Reason Thanks so much!
Great Video as usual. Came at a very good time. I am currently plumbing the brake lines for my 67. I really like the nutsert idea.
I have a similar flare tool. I was going to use SS line but switched to NiCopp. I had ABSOLUTELY no luck double flaring it. Perhaps it's easier with a single flare and AN fittings. SS line is hard stuff.
The editing on this video was great. Keep up the good work man. I can't wait to see her finished.
+Brononomous Thanks dude!
Great video! I do have a question what about a propositioning valve?
That is a good question. Because I’m using independent master cylinders front/rear… the proportioning happens at the pedal with a balance bar.
wow what a quality video, great video editing, this was so easy to see and understand. great work
Thanks very much... welcome!
Yes , I too have screwed up . Just finished plumbing my 68 Cougar project . Forgot fitting , fitting backwards , bent line with fitting on wrong side of bend , etc........ but it looks great when done .
How long were the flexible lines that go to calipers? Standard Ford (single piston) brakes have Banjo fittings. Likely keep them for this round. Great Video!!
At 13:10, the length from the burn hole ( where the upper control arm lube was done - many have this hole), to lower frame rail is about 9" ... so ... looks like twice that or 18". Going with that. Will report back after shipment from pegasus!!
Love your narration and personality
Thanks!
Locktite hydraulic sealant would be a good replacement for the Teflon tape in this application plus the added advantage of not having unsightly white tape on the fittings
Good tip, thanks!
Totally wrong never use single flares on brake pipes always double flare also never use thread nylon tape on brakes all dangerous practices 49 years as a brake specialist
Jason, great and informative video, thank you! Do you happen to have the part number or model number for the master cylinder? Appreciate it if you could share it. Thanks
I don't remember the part number but the folks at wilwood could help!
brilliant video and Great quality.
Kind of surprised you dont have more views on this. 👍
I wish... but a cool comment like yours goes a long way for me. Thanks!
another great vid, as I watch this I'm installing the 1 1/8" TCP front anti roll bar on the 69 fastback. I have their power rack and pinion conversion on the way. Their coilover conversion is on and Baer 6P brakes are waiting to go on. Your vids really lay out what I'm in for and help me as I go along doing this same build on my car. and as always.. Pinto is a badass. I look forward to future vids.
+GunfightersINC Thanks so much! I'll be interested to hear how you like your awesome Mustang with all of these mods!!!
Hi nice job. Just getting ready to do my own. Why no proportioning valve? Not needed?
Very good question. Since this pedal setup has discreet master cylinders for front and rear... I adjust the bias right there on the pedals... it's pretty cool. Otherwise, yes a standard prop valve would be needed on the rear lines!
Looks fantastic! One question though. The standard brake flaring tool is 45 degrees. Most AN fittings are 60 degrees. How did you deal with the difference? Is your flaring tool 60 degrees?
I have a 37 degree flaring tool for my AN fittings since that is what they call for in this case.
+autoedit ok thanks. Was wondering about that.
Great video. You got me motivated to start doing mine now. After searching around on the internet, I can't seem to find the an fittings or the backing portion of your line clamps. Do you happen to have a link to them, or at least point me in the right direction? Thanks
Go to either summit racing or jegs and type -3 fittings and all the different stuff will come up for ya ! Have fun with it!
Hi Jason, just came across your old video and would like to know what your source(s) were or are for the NI-Copp Tubing, braided hoses, bulkhead fittings and cones an B-nuts and sleeves??? Super clean installation, any modifications to the system that you have done since the initial install Great Work
Cheers
Kevin
I went between Summitracing.com and Jegs.com and would type in -3 AN to start searching and then just modify to bulkhead etc.
Hey Jason
Thanks again 🙏
I’m in the process of race prepping my 1977 Datsun 280Z for SCCA Club racing and the Willwood pieces are the best I’ve ever seen and are such a great upgrade to a four piston caliper setup front and rear and dumping the drum brakes. No Brake Fade issues lap after lap.
Cheers
Kevin
Back to the shop
man that is so clean, well done! I need to find the video why you are using single flare not double flare though
I wanted to go with the AN fittings and that's the only way for those. Since it's a well maintained hot rod... I've had good luck with those fittings, even for daily driver duties.
@@AutoEdits ah that's fair man. I just used the stock master in my build, when the forged motor goes in I'm sure I'll need to upgrade to something with abit more oomft. That wilwood set you have looks unreal, remember the part numbers or anything?
@@Simonstockton82 For sure... the Wilwood catalog has changed a bunch of time since this video and they have even better stuff... just search for what year car and they will offer a kit for it. Plus if you want to keep the double flare... the Wilwood calipers have any number of adapters to make it work with your system. They even helped me do the math on what master cylinder is right for my application!
@@AutoEdits cheers for the replies brother. Just subscribed. You tube needs more car guys like you 🤟
Wow I know this was seven years ago and you probably won't answer but there's some brake lines that are braided like and their flexible where'd you get those brake lines at I could really use some if you could please let me know I'd really really really appreciate it Bud thank you very much very good job
Hey there, those are just -3 flex lines from Summit Racing or you can get them on Jegs. Just look for the length you need.
@@AutoEdits sweet thank you bro
Awesome video Jason! I have always preferred using stainless steel, but will definitely try the NiCopp or nickel copper lines over steel lines. Enjoy your journey with Large Marge. She looks cool! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Great Videos, You're inspiring me to document my build. Nice sanitary work, I like the direction you've gone. Thanks for doing a nice thorough job on explaining as you go.
Awesome, thank you!
Nice simple brake line install 🙂
Thanks 👍
love the looks of it, where did you get your fittings and lines?
Combination of Summit racing and JEGS
@@AutoEdits okey, thanks
I forgot to ask...
I didn't see a proportioning valve. Can you please explain when 1 is needed? Is it only for disc / drum combo or do all 4 disc cars need them also?
Yes, most systems need a proportioning valve... but the Wilwood pedals I use in this one operate separate master cylinders for front/rear and you can adjust them by a bar on the levers.
very nice set up. I have been playing with the idea of upgrading some of my brake system on my 85 k20 suburban. I would keep most of the hard lines but use flex lines off the master and the calipers
Tell me more about the your brake master cylinder. Part #'s, etc.
Love your work. Very informative.
Nice clean look with some custom touches. Good job !!
Great video! I’m a DIY guy also. I’m just a little confused on what fittings to search for. Is it npt fittings or an-3 fittings or is it all together npt an-3 fittings? I’d appreciate any help.
If you're really new... stick with inverted flare fittings at the ends. I used -3 AN for most of the fittings in this install and the only NPT was into the calipers bodies and master cylinders.
@@AutoEdits Ok. Thanks
I hadn't realised the Nicop line was available in the US now! I recommended it to a friend in VA a year or two ago for his Jeep and he couldn't find it. I myself have been using it in the UK since the early 80's when I first got into building cars, although I'm not sure when it appeared on the market, but I do recall it was quite a new thing at that time and have used it ever since!
Although if I remember correctly it was a Swedish invention because back then there was only one brand and it came marked made in Sweden with a Swedish trade mark logo!
+cheyennedogsoldiers Cool factoids!
Volvo has been using copper nickel brake lines since the 70's.
Excellent instruction Jason good job
Thanks 👍
Very nice!
But one question; is there any need for a proportioning valve?
I ask because I got a Dodge ram 1500 that's giving me brake problems and wearing out brake pads and front rotors really badly and I think the proportioning valve and abs or combination valve rather maybe the problem and I looked it up and I just saying they don't make it anymore. Lucky me
What year Ram? If I were in your shoes... I'd order a replacement master cylinder and get the PowerStop Brake kit I put on my Ram... th-cam.com/video/__EsW2uwEDo/w-d-xo.html
Or just take your calipers off and make sure the sliders are properly lubed because I had that happen once th-cam.com/video/gqIoTpRneKo/w-d-xo.html
Impressive production value on these videos.
Great Video. Now how do you Get that switch to turn on your brake lights?
Thanks! The wiring harness has a simple brake light signal wire and you run it to this thing!
Could you post part numbers for the fittings that you used? Specifically the bulkhead and the ends for the tubing.
Nice work. I use nickel copper tubing in industrial heat exchangers and it's tough as nail.
+BustedWalletGarage That's pretty dang cool!
I would also add, coming from being a diesel tech on tractor trailers, that we were taught in brake class to use liquid tephlon vs tape bc it’s possible if a small piece in in the air stream, or in your case fluid stream, break off in the system, it could cause brake system failure. OCD is beating me up over that run on sentence.
coat hanger. Genius!!
Question: What about brake proportioning? I'm not familiar with the Willwood master, but generally, when you are not using the factory metering block, wouldn't you have to install an adjustable proportioning valve into the system to ensure the correct brake pressure is metered to the front and rear of the car?
You're right! This video was getting so long I didn't include the segment on the Wilwood pedals that have a proportioning bar to adjust how much pressure on each master cylinder. I'll show a separate video on those guys. Good call.
Cool, I look forward to seeing that vid. Nice work so far, can't wait to see your Mustang back on the road where it belongs!
So you don't double flare the high pressure brake lines? All brake line should have double flares
Great video. Just a suggestion, next time you might wanna consider placing the T split for the front brakes in the middle of the firewall of the car in order to have equal length brake lines to both front wheels, as fluid as good as it is still has some dampening to it. Ideally you would wanna place the T above the engine, for servicing purposes.
LOL
Where do you purchase the fittings for the brake lines
Bought them all on Summitracing.com they are under the -3 AN fittings section.
Thank you for replying
So you don't think you need a proportionin valve? To be able to adjust flow between front and back evenly?
just flawless, and a perfect choice.. tecate roja. Greets from Mexico
+Neto Reyes Absolutely... it was a worthy celebration... Thanks friend!
Thank you for a great video. Love the terminal idea on the firewall and using NiCopp. Will use these on my project.
Hi Jason! I really dig the master cylinder set up you have there. It's a really rad setup and really cleans up the engine bay. But I was wondering how they're linked under the dash and to the brake pedal. Are there links to a kit that you can provide that accomplished that, or offer some insight into how you linked them together on the far side of the firewall? Also, are they powered brakes, or manual?
Thanks! Here's the video on the pedal install... now that the car is a driver... I've been thrilled with the setup. th-cam.com/video/1xX3_LmfXTU/w-d-xo.html
@@AutoEdits Very cool. Thanks!
I usually skip to these tutorials because it takes a long time to get to the point, but you sir kept me interested from start to finish. you diffidently got me pumped to keep working on my car. btw where did you get those flex lines?
Great video just one question why the single flare over a double or the bubble i personally would of thought the double flare to be stronger and perform better than a single ??????????????????????
That’s a lot of ???’s I chose single flare because I wanted to use -3 AN fittings. That’s all, yes double flare is much more reliable... just a design choice.
Wouldn’t it be easier to use flex pipe from the manifold to the caliper.? Fewer fittings too. What am I missing? TIA
subscribed, you sir are a true car enthusiasts. Down to details. quality work.
your dog must be the best fixer/builder cardog on the earth
Thx for being such an inspiration with this build been following all along and just love how this beast is coming along. Makes me always want work and continue my build on my fox body mustang!
Great video! definitely some good pointers. Looking to redo my whole brake lines soon... Do you have a link where to get a full kit of -3an fittings ?
I just got them from Summit racing .com and you have to buy them a bit piece by piece... I'll look through later to see if I can find an easier grouping.
AutoEdits thank you sir.
Very informative, you just solved most of my brake line problems, thank you. Add more videos, if available.
Love these videos. Your car is going to look sick when you finish it. Can't wait!
Look up Kool Tools and their flare lapping tools, perfect seal every time.
Nice video... would be nice to source your parts in the description so others who want to do something similar will know what you bought. Otherwise, great info. thanks
I can get the parts, hit me up
@@arnaldograceski6185 can you tell me all the fittings that he used?
Email me s7racingtec@gmail.com
Very nice job Dude, the people that design cars don't know this or maybe they do and do it just to cause early failures however dissimilar metals in contact with each other erode sometime very quickly, even steel and stainless steel. One of the most volatile connections is Aluminum and Copper since it been two years since you made this video I would be interest to see what those connections look like. I this case strong nylon material would be better.