Ive been searing for hours on how to stop the brake fluid while trying to flare the old hard line while on the car and not draining the system, thank you sir I will be locking my pedal to the floor and singing your praises if it works, you just got another subscriber
Eric, I picked up that same compact tool, some brake line, a bender and some fittings. I ended up playing this video, rewinding, then replaying it a coupla' more times LOL while I made my first ever genuine, 100% custom brake line for my '01 Ford Ranger 4x4. My line went from the ABS control module up top then routed down to the flexible line off the caliper. Man, I sure hope my line's solid with no leaks. We'll see tomorrow. 🤞 I'm no mechanic, but I've been saving on hourly repair shop labor costs as well as learning a ton by watching your videos and working on my truck myself. Thanks again for all the excellent videos.
This was one of the best specialty, single-purpose tools I have ever bought. This saved me when I had to replace corroded brake lines on an '07 Subaru Forester, by cutting and flaring them for unions under the back seat. Could not have done this with any other tool, as I had maybe 2" to 3" ends to work with. Thanks, Eric!
Thank you for taking the time to record this video and allowing us to learn along with you. The on-pipe flaring tool saved the day and allowed me to finish repairing my leaking brake line.
Thanks for the reviews of both Eastwood flaring tools. I have spent about $100 over the years on cheap flaring tools that produced frustration rather than flares. The auto part stores stock throw away tools and I have been looking for a quality tool for some time. I am buying the Eastwood on car tool so I can finish the job properly, with a minimum of frustration.
Thumbs up to this guy - Not only did I learn about this tool which will help me recover an old 56 Chrysler but the AMSOIL logo on that fender cover folded up means this guy is smart.
Just used this as I purchased to fix a brake line on a 1966 Mustang I am restoring. It works awesome. Very easy and saved me from replacing an entire steel line just because the one line stripped at the proportion valve. Cut the line with a min-pipe cutter, used the flare tool and new fitting...bang, done. I DID DO A NEWBIE GOOF on the first flare. Yes, I know better but forgot to put the fitting on first...DUH...recut, reflared..Okay, now I am done. Thank you eastwood and thank you for tipping me off Eric
I was a ball of nerves with you. That was like watching a suspense movie clip. An automotive cliffhanger. I know the consequences of that attempt failing could make things miserable. Great tool, great video. Thank you Eric
This reminds me of the time I started a "simple" job on my car over at a friends house. I broke a bolt and the situation just spiraled out of control from there. Wound up having to leave my broken car at my friends house and bumming rides to work for a few days till I could get over there and fix the issue. Sometimes crap happens....
brake pedal to the floor trick works great and has saved me mess lots of times all I would say is be mindful of doing this on an older vehicle ( or at least older master cylinders) I don't mind admitting I've damaged a master cylinder this way by pushing an old and perished seal beyond its capabilities. granted it problem was due a change anyway but explaining to the customer who is already trying not to spend too much that they have to fork out more is never a mice conversation. keep up the videos and tips Eric
Oh the irony that this video comes out now. My dad and i just spent a bunch of money on 3 different tools to get a brake job done on my now recently deceased 2000 Honda civic ex (rest its soul). We ended up using a tool almost identical to this, after wasting almost 2 weeks being stubborn with bad tools trying to force it to work, and it was by far the easiest. Great video like always Eric! Infotainment at its finest.
+EricTheCarGuy It's alright! Even with it gone i learned more about repairs then i thought i ever would. I just now know next time I get a timing belt done, I should go through and check the mechanics work. Someone forgot to replace tensioners and also forgot to use thread lock (I even question if the changed the belt itself). The repair failed and the belt blew, pistons slammed and i was stranded on a road trip. Nashville is a nice place to break down just in case anyone was wondering lol.
TrueBlueEG8 i have maybe a dumb question. When do you press and hold on the brake pedal - before you cut the lines or after you cut them? Does it matter?
Not sure if your read this as so old apost Anyway tip for you if you do get some Simmer nylon cord i use 3or4mm stuff for bending tube stops kinks and comes out/ removes Easy, from long pipes , and cheap as you get 25 /50 meters rolls so no problem if strimmer wants so as well, :-) note must be Nylon don't work with Steel or Polythene Cords they can get trap in bends ,Nylon don't
I think I'll buy this tool now for a job where the hard line meets the rubber hose in the wheel well. Thank you for demonstrating. In Pennsylvania (and maybe in other states with vehicle inspection requirements) such a repair would not pass inspection and would have to be redone by replacing the entire line back to the nearest original fitting. A mechanic here informed me that all brake line work must result in a braking system which is "factory or better", i.e. no more fittings or unions than the vehicle had when it rolled off the assembly line.
I think that mechanic was either bullshitting you, or didn't understand the regs. As long as the repairs use proper threaded brake line unions and not compression fittings, there should be no problems.
What a great video….one of the few that illustrates the real-world difficulties, and creative solutions, which are inevitable when working on a vehicle. AND a fantastic tool review in the bargain.👍👍👍👍👍
I wish I had known about this tool before. looks like it does a perfect flare. great job Eric and thanks for all your very helpful videos that have allowed me to learn and have saved me some money as a DIYer
Eric, you have the patience of a saint. Great video, I remember from many years ago trying to repair a brake line and making those pesky double flares. Yeah many years ago, I'm 78 years old, but no longer work on cars. I love watching your videos , so keep em coming. Ken....Marina CA .
Eastwood makes good tools. I have that big brake line flare tool from Eastwood - could not have replaced all the brake lines on my 1983 Cherokee SJ without that flare tool.
with that location you might want to coat that line with some paint or cut a rubber hose and slip over it. Living in the rust belt sucks!! great video!
Great video I have the off car tool just came in yesterday but what I really need is the on car tool which arrives tomorrow for my master cylinder flaring job. This video familiarized me enough with the tool coming tomorrow which is a big help.
The brake lines on my '98 Toyota have some sort of plastic/rubber coating on them, these are the original brake lines and they never rusted. Most car manufacturers continue to use plain steel for brake lines (instead of stainless steel or a coating) so if you live in a wet climate you will have to deal with rusted brake lines sooner or later. Unless you coat them yourself when the car is new.
I got one of these a while back and it's now my go too brake pipe tool , in tight spots like that I use my cordless impact to flare the pipe , you can hold the die in your hand with little stress on the pipe being flared ,and it works well on steal pipes which van be tough
I know a factory in the UK that makes a version of this I'm not sure if he invented it and other's have copied him with slightly different versions but I do know its one of the most useful tools I have ever used!
yeah i love the vise mounted tool. i rarely ever find myself needing to flare a line on the car, in those situations i just use the regular old hand flare. had to do a old buick century yesterday and with this car and most other theres never any good spots to flare too, always end up having to replace everything from the abs unit all the way back to the tires.
I can't believe you didn't know about the brake pedal trick. Saves you from leaking fluid everywhere. I learned that by myself while contemplating how to keep it from leaking. The pressure keeps it from flowing.
Another helpful video Eric. Well done, entertaining and informative. Especially like the two screw driver bending technique on the line. You also confirmed my suspicion that I had the one die that was miss-marked with "OP1 arrow" pointing towards the end that should be used as OP2. Thanks.
That flaring tool looks a lot easier and makes better flares than the kind I have. If I ever have to replace hard brake lines again, and I sincerely hope I don't, I'll get one of those. BTW, that bit with using the 2 screwdrivers to straighten that bend...genius!
Eric!! You NEED a Mastercool Hydraulic Flare tool, you will NEVER go back to any other kind of flare tool, is is the absolute easiest to use and is small and light, and you dont have to be strong at all! Check it out!
Yep, eastwood has one also, and several others make knockoff hydraulic ones too, but I love my mastercool one. Probably make a flare in less then a minute.
WOW talk about timing, you are saving my Canadian Bacon again. I was going to do the lines on my sister's car this weekend but I think I will wait till I get this tool first. I already have the vice mounted Eastwood flaring tool... Love Eastwood!
When a line rusts out... I replace all the brake lines next to it. Single pieces when ever possible. I wouldnt trust a compression union for brake pressures but I too would band aid it, to get it back. Ive watched a ton of your videos and you are fun to watch. Thank You. Buying cheap tools suck, recently having a new HF double flare tool strip out on its first use. F@$K that. Those tools look nice, and I will get some,
It's crazy how the right tool can make the job so fucking easier lol I've been struggling to flare my line on the car it self with the harbor freight junk cuz I don't have enough room and shit but this, it look like it can work lol thanks Eric, I appreciate what you do for the community. Again, thank you.
Bro...love your videos...tried flaring my lines with the standard tool.. patchin my lines temporarily with compression lines due to winter coming up..but ill get this tool and replace front to back in the spring!
This is exactly what I needed to hear, I finally got all the lines installed in my '73 Mercury project and I have three flares that are leaking on me. A better tool will help a ton
@@lemagreengreen I'm building a '73 Montego GT from the ground up, it was an empty body shell and frame when I bought it. Front brakes are stock, but the rears are '70s GM front calipers and rotors with some brackets I welded in, and I replaced the stock proportioning valve with an adjustable Wilwood. I just finished making all the lines of of a 25' roll of nickel-copper line, and I was so relived until I saw a few leaks 😂 at least most of the flares were good enough
@@jimbojimson With copper-nickle lines you can often get away with just really tightening them up but I guess there's only so much compensating for a less than perfect flare. I used to use another style that technically can be used on the car, it's the typical cheap flare tool but really its so fiddly it's even a pain to use on a bench let alone upside down under a car. This tool is different though, have replaced a lot of lines on a lot of cars using it and it actually saves you from replacing entire lines that don't need to be replaced since you can easily just cut back to good steel and attach new copper-nickel, done that a few times. Good luck, sounds like a cool project
this looks like one of the best brake line tools i have ever seen, those old style multiple sized ones are very cumbersome and not ideal in alot of places
you totally got your 3/8 wrench stuck on the line by putting the boxed end on and putting a larger fitting on next. nice job cutting that out haha. good video as always Eric.
You should have turned the nut instead of the union to avoid wearing the flare - but thanks for the demo on that flaring tool, it's great! I just fought like for 3 hours with a standard flaring tool and it was a knuckle buster!!!
This tool looked easier to use than the one that you have to put in the vise. It'll be nice when they start making them in different sizes and with different flares.
i like it, makes a very nice flare too, if you have to hold the tool in place again you might try using a crows foot wrench to hold the tool with an extension on the crows foot wrench
@therockkkkher in a different way I would think that is the case. I always wondered why everyone uses AN fittings these days but, single flare fittings are not ok.
Bought some metric and standard flare nut crows feet from Sears and love them, use them everyday in my trade, highly recommend the flare nut type over the standard open end style, way less chance of rounding the head of the fastener, get you some Eric
+Matthew McGee thats funny - I do instrument tubing and find the Crowfeet wrench sockets to be able to get into almost anywhere, generally tubing takes up a lot of space restricting wrench space - so I know what your saying! Happy Wrenching! :)
+EricTheCarGuy I've heard nothing but good things about it. I've had to completely re-line 4 cars in the past year (and I'm just a guy at home) and have decided that the next one the rolls in is going to get that stuff. Everyone swears it's the bees knees and I'm getting way tired of having to make super tights bends with steel lines. Actually, I'm to the point that if someone makes a stainless line kit for a car, I order that and bolt it on. It's well worth what it costs.
I'm pretty concerned if the lubricant will contaminate the brake system as they are extremely sensitive to contamination. Just a thought, and I'm sure the lubricant that is provided is safe to use, and was an issue that was addressed. With that said, I don't bother with on car brake line repairs. It's so cheap and easy to replace the entire line with stock tubing and a vise mounted flare tool from Eastwood.
Looks like some major inflation has occurred since you posted this video. You originally listed the portable flaring tool as costing $39.99, and now it’s up to $62.99.
The bigger tool shown at the end original sold for $250 as indicated on channel video 2 years prior to this one but today sells for $200 on Eastwood and $179 at Amazon under TGR brand. The tool highlighted in this video sells under different brands at Amazon for $36 to $42.
E. Open end 1"crows foot on an extension with a tee handle or breaker bar to hold the tool body. When going deep. I would guess that the first side of the flaring threaded insert does an iso bubble flare. The second finishes it as an inverted flare.
Big fan of Eric the Car Guy. But......insert teh brake line with the nut already attached. snug down the 10mm screws so they hole the bark kine. Wrench in the centering bolt so that it pusshes the brake line to exactly where itss designed to go.THen Torque down the 10mm screws (this keeps the brake line from creeping backwards and creating an inferior flare. THEN.....grease the both sides of the process screw (saves time ) and wrench them in with the 11/16 inch wrench (not provided) until it stops. Makes a perfect inverse flare but run your fingers over the top just to clear off any residual metal. You'll see. Then your good to go. Further nore,.......don't torque it from the side. Torque it straight on, using not your wrist but your shoulders and elbows. Some break line is easy, but steel is hard and you'll fine this tip handy.
This seems like the perfect "on the vehicle" flaring tool. I'm curious how well it'll work for lines that run down the undercarriage. Mine failed about 1/2 way down the car.
OMG.. very helpful video Eric. Struggling with some easy exposed lines that.. the tool I have now is just not producing good flares on. Convinced at this point that the cheapo tool.. is producing cheapo flares. :) Hoping the eastwoodtool ..
Resurrecting an old video, but I just wanted to share a something that I seen on an 08 Hyundai Sonata. They used what looks to be brass compression fittings on the driver side from the factory. Look to be a different style of a feral but it’s definitely a compression fitting. Actually having to cut one of them out and replace it with a steel compression fitting to run a new brake line that rusted. The steel fitting that I’m using is a Grainger weatherhead. It’s designed to hold hydraulic pressure. Have you ever use these?
omg, I had to do the same thing on my 94 civic. Tried to replace the rear wheel cylinder and the line twisted right off. Luckily it was the outside line and easy to get at.
Nice video man. 👌👍 I don't have time to read all the comments. I guess maybe someone else has allready asked you the same thing I will: Why are you still using the double flare ? I want to belive that the bubble flare is stronger....
Eric, you're a good wrench. However, with that kind of an area and knowing that it "rotted out" , ( I presume rusted out?) I'd be all for pulling the line out and installing a new line with fitting out of vehicle. Since one lines "rotted out", may as well pull the others one at a time and replace each.
+Don B You would be until you found out you need to drop the fuel tank to do that. It only rusted out in the one area. The rest of the line was fine. Thanks for your input.
EricTheCarGuy Fuel tank arrangements not withstanding, and having to do just that more than once, it's far easier than having to wrestle with one line. More room means faster repair time and less costs to the customer and a repeat happy customer at that. No worries.
+Don B We may have to agree to disagree on this one. Removing a rusty fuel tank from a car that sat in a field for a couple of years just doesn't seem like it would take less time to me. But, my way is not the only way of doing things and I respect your input.
ETCG1 Ah ha-1 So the mystery deepens. It's sat in a field and it's use now is for teaching. Great call on that. And with that in mind I'd have to agree. Leave it in place. However, for teaching purposes, it could be pulled to allow access and so as to afford any of your "students" the chance to see, what's in that dark mysterious place that you and I know to be more often than not, fraught with more than one issue. Rusted nuts on belly straps usually snap when I throw a half inch impact at it. I know a lot of the ones I did I soaked the living hell out of them with either Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster. worst case was to whip out the torch and heat it up just enough to get em to break free. And we don't have to disagree. You're the teacher, I'm just looking on. Be cool. Be safe too. Stress eye protection a tad more . Some of these back yards guys ( and gals) forget that rust or metal , let alone any thing else in the eyes is not pleasant. In every shop I worked in, if you were seen without eye wear? You're done for the day. In some cases, that tech was just done period. Later !
+Don B I've done a TON of videos with this car over the years, so there's no shortage there. 2 things. There isn't a need to drop this fuel tank to get to the fuel pump as there's access through the trunk. Also, Honda's very rarely have issues with fuel delivery, AKA bad fuel pumps. Therefore, there would be very little value in a fuel tank removal video. th-cam.com/video/lLjGy6E-hM0/w-d-xo.html
Ive been searing for hours on how to stop the brake fluid while trying to flare the old hard line while on the car and not draining the system, thank you sir I will be locking my pedal to the floor and singing your praises if it works, you just got another subscriber
Eric, I picked up that same compact tool, some brake line, a bender and some fittings. I ended up playing this video, rewinding, then replaying it a coupla' more times LOL while I made my first ever genuine, 100% custom brake line for my '01 Ford Ranger 4x4. My line went from the ABS control module up top then routed down to the flexible line off the caliper. Man, I sure hope my line's solid with no leaks. We'll see tomorrow. 🤞 I'm no mechanic, but I've been saving on hourly repair shop labor costs as well as learning a ton by watching your videos and working on my truck myself. Thanks again for all the excellent videos.
This was one of the best specialty, single-purpose tools I have ever bought. This saved me when I had to replace corroded brake lines on an '07 Subaru Forester, by cutting and flaring them for unions under the back seat. Could not have done this with any other tool, as I had maybe 2" to 3" ends to work with. Thanks, Eric!
Thank you for taking the time to record this video and allowing us to learn along with you. The on-pipe flaring tool saved the day and allowed me to finish repairing my leaking brake line.
Thanks for the reviews of both Eastwood flaring tools. I have spent about $100 over the years on cheap flaring tools that produced frustration rather than flares. The auto part stores stock throw away tools and I have been looking for a quality tool for some time. I am buying the Eastwood on car tool so I can finish the job properly, with a minimum of frustration.
I am in the same situation..
Did u buy it?
Do u like it ?
Now that is a tool I could have used many times in the past. I'll be ordering this one and hoping I'll never need it.
Thumbs up to this guy - Not only did I learn about this tool which will help me recover an old 56 Chrysler but the AMSOIL logo on that fender cover folded up means this guy is smart.
Just used this as I purchased to fix a brake line on a 1966 Mustang I am restoring. It works awesome. Very easy and saved me from replacing an entire steel line just because the one line stripped at the proportion valve. Cut the line with a min-pipe cutter, used the flare tool and new fitting...bang, done. I DID DO A NEWBIE GOOF on the first flare. Yes, I know better but forgot to put the fitting on first...DUH...recut, reflared..Okay, now I am done. Thank you eastwood and thank you for tipping me off Eric
I was a ball of nerves with you. That was like watching a suspense movie clip. An automotive cliffhanger. I know the consequences of that attempt failing could make things miserable. Great tool, great video. Thank you Eric
This reminds me of the time I started a "simple" job on my car over at a friends house. I broke a bolt and the situation just spiraled out of control from there. Wound up having to leave my broken car at my friends house and bumming rides to work for a few days till I could get over there and fix the issue.
Sometimes crap happens....
+Thomas Jackson Indeed it does. th-cam.com/video/N4U1pxnQ6as/w-d-xo.html
brake pedal to the floor trick works great and has saved me mess lots of times all I would say is be mindful of doing this on an older vehicle ( or at least older master cylinders) I don't mind admitting I've damaged a master cylinder this way by pushing an old and perished seal beyond its capabilities. granted it problem was due a change anyway but explaining to the customer who is already trying not to spend too much that they have to fork out more is never a mice conversation. keep up the videos and tips Eric
Oh the irony that this video comes out now. My dad and i just spent a bunch of money on 3 different tools to get a brake job done on my now recently deceased 2000 Honda civic ex (rest its soul). We ended up using a tool almost identical to this, after wasting almost 2 weeks being stubborn with bad tools trying to force it to work, and it was by far the easiest. Great video like always Eric! Infotainment at its finest.
lol
+bubbaeisen Missed it by that much. Sorry to hear about your Civic man.
+EricTheCarGuy It's alright! Even with it gone i learned more about repairs then i thought i ever would. I just now know next time I get a timing belt done, I should go through and check the mechanics work. Someone forgot to replace tensioners and also forgot to use thread lock (I even question if the changed the belt itself). The repair failed and the belt blew, pistons slammed and i was stranded on a road trip. Nashville is a nice place to break down just in case anyone was wondering lol.
bubbaeisen Wow. Sorry. Fyi. The lol was for the infotainment comment. Very funny.
+DE “AutoBravado” Nichols I gotcha man! No worries! It's all good.
I must have suggested that tip about holding the pedal down during brake pipe jobs a lot of times, it is the cleanest way to do it. Great video dude
TrueBlueEG8 i have maybe a dumb question.
When do you press and hold on the brake pedal - before you cut the lines or after you cut them? Does it matter?
Not sure if your read this as so old apost Anyway tip for you if you do get some Simmer nylon cord i use 3or4mm stuff for bending tube stops kinks and comes out/ removes Easy, from long pipes , and cheap as you get 25 /50 meters rolls so no problem if strimmer wants so as well, :-) note must be Nylon don't work with Steel or Polythene Cords they can get trap in bends ,Nylon don't
I think I'll buy this tool now for a job where the hard line meets the rubber hose in the wheel well. Thank you for demonstrating. In Pennsylvania (and maybe in other states with vehicle inspection requirements) such a repair would not pass inspection and would have to be redone by replacing the entire line back to the nearest original fitting. A mechanic here informed me that all brake line work must result in a braking system which is "factory or better", i.e. no more fittings or unions than the vehicle had when it rolled off the assembly line.
I think that mechanic was either bullshitting you, or didn't understand the regs. As long as the repairs use proper threaded brake line unions and not compression fittings, there should be no problems.
What a great video….one of the few that illustrates the real-world difficulties, and creative solutions, which are inevitable when working on a vehicle. AND a fantastic tool review in the bargain.👍👍👍👍👍
Eric is always the best! I would have tried a compression fitting until I saw the cool tool for tight spaces Eric used.
I wish I had known about this tool before. looks like it does a perfect flare. great job Eric and thanks for all your very helpful videos that have allowed me to learn and have saved me some money as a DIYer
nothing like coming home from a long day at work, and sitting down to watch someones long day at work
Confusing but true, right?
+kenykillr Well, I hope you're day was equally productive.
Eric, you have the patience of a saint. Great video, I remember from many years ago trying to repair a brake line and making those pesky double flares. Yeah many years ago, I'm 78 years old, but no longer work on cars. I love watching your videos , so keep em coming. Ken....Marina CA .
+Kenneth Bartlett Thanks for your input and for your comment. Both are appreciated.
Eastwood makes good tools. I have that big brake line flare tool from Eastwood - could not have replaced all the brake lines on my 1983 Cherokee SJ without that flare tool.
Erick i respect your work, always nice to see your videos. I wish I could learn how to fix cars at your shop. great job buddy.
with that location you might want to coat that line with some paint or cut a rubber hose and slip over it. Living in the rust belt sucks!! great video!
Great video
I have the off car tool just came in yesterday but what I really need is the on car tool which arrives tomorrow for my master cylinder flaring job. This video familiarized me enough with the tool coming tomorrow which is a big help.
Nice video. Finally a video that shows the tool ACTUALLY being used on the vehicle ! Good job.
The brake lines on my '98 Toyota have some sort of plastic/rubber coating on them, these are the original brake lines and they never rusted. Most car manufacturers continue to use plain steel for brake lines (instead of stainless steel or a coating) so if you live in a wet climate you will have to deal with rusted brake lines sooner or later. Unless you coat them yourself when the car is new.
I got one of these a while back and it's now my go too brake pipe tool , in tight spots like that I use my cordless impact to flare the pipe , you can hold the die in your hand with little stress on the pipe being flared ,and it works well on steal pipes which van be tough
Great to see it actually works on steel, just what I needed to know. Thanks.
I know a factory in the UK that makes a version of this I'm not sure if he invented it and other's have copied him with slightly different versions but I do know its one of the most useful tools I have ever used!
meto i have exact tool but came with red grease, made in china hehe works great used many times
yeah i love the vise mounted tool. i rarely ever find myself needing to flare a line on the car, in those situations i just use the regular old hand flare. had to do a old buick century yesterday and with this car and most other theres never any good spots to flare too, always end up having to replace everything from the abs unit all the way back to the tires.
I can't believe you didn't know about the brake pedal trick. Saves you from leaking fluid everywhere. I learned that by myself while contemplating how to keep it from leaking. The pressure keeps it from flowing.
Another helpful video Eric. Well done, entertaining and informative. Especially like the two screw driver bending technique on the line. You also confirmed my suspicion that I had the one die that was miss-marked with "OP1 arrow" pointing towards the end that should be used as OP2. Thanks.
Nice video ! Im doing this job this weekend on an old rust bucket bmw, fingers crossed it goes as smoothly as it did here!
That flaring tool looks a lot easier and makes better flares than the kind I have. If I ever have to replace hard brake lines again, and I sincerely hope I don't, I'll get one of those.
BTW, that bit with using the 2 screwdrivers to straighten that bend...genius!
Eric!! You NEED a Mastercool Hydraulic Flare tool, you will NEVER go back to any other kind of flare tool, is is the absolute easiest to use and is small and light, and you dont have to be strong at all! Check it out!
+mit7771 i love mine
Yep. My dad offered to pay half to do all his rusted lines. He thought the price was ridiculous. By the end of that mess, he was singing its praises.
Yep, eastwood has one also, and several others make knockoff hydraulic ones too, but I love my mastercool one. Probably make a flare in less then a minute.
It's the best tool i ever owned. I laugh anytime i see someone attempt flaring with a 20$ auto zone joke
can u use that with line on the car?
WOW talk about timing, you are saving my Canadian Bacon again. I was going to do the lines on my sister's car this weekend but I think I will wait till I get this tool first. I already have the vice mounted Eastwood flaring tool... Love Eastwood!
+TheShawn006 You won't be disappointed. The tool works awesome.
When a line rusts out... I replace all the brake lines next to it. Single pieces when ever possible. I wouldnt trust a compression union for brake pressures but I too would band aid it, to get it back. Ive watched a ton of your videos and you are fun to watch. Thank You. Buying cheap tools suck, recently having a new HF double flare tool strip out on its first use. F@$K that. Those tools look nice, and I will get some,
So a week ago thursday a brake line to the rear brakes busted. I got to use the pop bottle bleeder. that worked like a champ. Thanks for the tip.
Always like Wednesday's tool solutions . Eric that is a cool solution to a common problem 👍👍
+STEVE ROB Thank you! I'm liking 'Wednesday Tool Solutions' too.
It's crazy how the right tool can make the job so fucking easier lol I've been struggling to flare my line on the car it self with the harbor freight junk cuz I don't have enough room and shit but this, it look like it can work lol thanks Eric, I appreciate what you do for the community. Again, thank you.
Bro...love your videos...tried flaring my lines with the standard tool.. patchin my lines temporarily with compression lines due to winter coming up..but ill get this tool and replace front to back in the spring!
Eric the brake line guy. You're gettin good at that.
I can confirm these tools are great. Like, really great - they just work.
I brought one a while back, great tool, perfect flares everytime.
This is exactly what I needed to hear, I finally got all the lines installed in my '73 Mercury project and I have three flares that are leaking on me. A better tool will help a ton
@@jimbojimson Won't regret it, one of a few tools I can say that about... I should get a job selling these things.
@@lemagreengreen I'm building a '73 Montego GT from the ground up, it was an empty body shell and frame when I bought it. Front brakes are stock, but the rears are '70s GM front calipers and rotors with some brackets I welded in, and I replaced the stock proportioning valve with an adjustable Wilwood. I just finished making all the lines of of a 25' roll of nickel-copper line, and I was so relived until I saw a few leaks 😂 at least most of the flares were good enough
@@jimbojimson With copper-nickle lines you can often get away with just really tightening them up but I guess there's only so much compensating for a less than perfect flare.
I used to use another style that technically can be used on the car, it's the typical cheap flare tool but really its so fiddly it's even a pain to use on a bench let alone upside down under a car. This tool is different though, have replaced a lot of lines on a lot of cars using it and it actually saves you from replacing entire lines that don't need to be replaced since you can easily just cut back to good steel and attach new copper-nickel, done that a few times.
Good luck, sounds like a cool project
I bought this tool and I'm in a similar situation. Eric nice work brotha!!!
this tool looks awesome and easy too use.
+LEX Maximaguy87 It is.
eastwood makes a lot of good stuff. Especially the paint products. Have bought a ton of stuff from them over the years. TP tools too.
this looks like one of the best brake line tools i have ever seen, those old style multiple sized ones are very cumbersome and not ideal in alot of places
+rehlek I hate those things.
+EricTheCarGuy I feel your pain, I'm a master tech with Hyundai and living up north rust is more common then i would like.
Yep, I'll be ordering that bad boy right away. You rock, @EricTheCarGuy !
you totally got your 3/8 wrench stuck on the line by putting the boxed end on and putting a larger fitting on next. nice job cutting that out haha. good video as always Eric.
You should have turned the nut instead of the union to avoid wearing the flare - but thanks for the demo on that flaring tool, it's great! I just fought like for 3 hours with a standard flaring tool and it was a knuckle buster!!!
I feel guilty, but nonetheless, I am comforted by seeing someone else deal with this kind of aggravation, that I thought only happened to me.
"First I'm going to throw it on the floor" LOL
This tool looked easier to use than the one that you have to put in the vise. It'll be nice when they start making them in different sizes and with different flares.
i like it, makes a very nice flare too, if you have to hold the tool in place again you might try using a crows foot wrench to hold the tool with an extension on the crows foot wrench
I love your videos Eric! love the way they are filmed and how clear you are! keep it up!
Thank you!
Thank you eric!I am all over that tool Well done
not to mention here in ny compression fitting are against the law on brake lines we have to look for state inspection they will fail
@therockkkkher in a different way I would think that is the case. I always wondered why everyone uses AN fittings these days but, single flare fittings are not ok.
Bought some metric and standard flare nut crows feet from Sears and love them, use them everyday in my trade, highly recommend the flare nut type over the standard open end style, way less chance of rounding the head of the fastener, get you some Eric
Crows Feet are fantastic! I refer to them as. 'The Hand of God' because they get into places humans can't!
+mechpatt absolutely, I use a 9/16 crows foot literally every day to repair refrigerated trucks
+Matthew McGee thats funny - I do instrument tubing and find the Crowfeet wrench sockets to be able to get into almost anywhere, generally tubing takes up a lot of space restricting wrench space - so I know what your saying! Happy Wrenching! :)
Great video Eric
That new ni-copp brake line is s great. Bend with two fingers. And will not rust. No benders needed. Can buy in 20 ft rolls
+Jason Curry I haven't tried that stuff yet, but it sounds interesting.
+EricTheCarGuy I've heard nothing but good things about it. I've had to completely re-line 4 cars in the past year (and I'm just a guy at home) and have decided that the next one the rolls in is going to get that stuff. Everyone swears it's the bees knees and I'm getting way tired of having to make super tights bends with steel lines.
Actually, I'm to the point that if someone makes a stainless line kit for a car, I order that and bolt it on. It's well worth what it costs.
Awesome. Be great to have as a regular tool for guys that don't do it often !!!!
You can also use a pair of vise grips to hold it steady while you tighten the two bolts.
As far as I can see it’s Eastwood all the way!!!!👀💯
Eric, I use a MasterCool hand operated hydraulic flaring tool in situations like this !
I'm pretty concerned if the lubricant will contaminate the brake system as they are extremely sensitive to contamination. Just a thought, and I'm sure the lubricant that is provided is safe to use, and was an issue that was addressed. With that said, I don't bother with on car brake line repairs. It's so cheap and easy to replace the entire line with stock tubing and a vise mounted flare tool from Eastwood.
Eastwood is a great company!
I sent you a link to a tool like this when you did the lines on the Ford.
Looks like a perfect job for a 1" crows foot.
Ya man
Lmao. Eric just said that as I am watching this......3 years later
great job Eric and cool tool.
+BADD400 CB700 drums Thanks. I love this tool.
Looks like some major inflation has occurred since you posted this video. You originally listed the portable flaring tool as costing $39.99, and now it’s up to $62.99.
The bigger tool shown at the end original sold for $250 as indicated on channel video 2 years prior to this one but today sells for $200 on Eastwood and $179 at Amazon under TGR brand. The tool highlighted in this video sells under different brands at Amazon for $36 to $42.
That is kick ass. Talk about a life saver.
E. Open end 1"crows foot on an extension with a tee handle or breaker bar to hold the tool body. When going deep.
I would guess that the first side of the flaring threaded insert does an iso bubble flare. The second finishes it as an inverted flare.
I always go with Rothenberger for my flaring tools... It's the all-in-one uber-flooby. But, this does look awesome for those tight jobs.
that tool is a life saver !
Big fan of Eric the Car Guy. But......insert teh brake line with the nut already attached. snug down the 10mm screws so they hole the bark kine. Wrench in the centering bolt so that it pusshes the brake line to exactly where itss designed to go.THen Torque down the 10mm screws (this keeps the brake line from creeping backwards and creating an inferior flare. THEN.....grease the both sides of the process screw (saves time ) and wrench them in with the 11/16 inch wrench (not provided) until it stops. Makes a perfect inverse flare but run your fingers over the top just to clear off any residual metal. You'll see. Then your good to go.
Further nore,.......don't torque it from the side. Torque it straight on, using not your wrist but your shoulders and elbows. Some break line is easy, but steel is hard and you'll fine this tip handy.
This seems like the perfect "on the vehicle" flaring tool. I'm curious how well it'll work for lines that run down the undercarriage. Mine failed about 1/2 way down the car.
Thanks very much for doing this video. Very useful information.
Excellent video.
Thanks Eric, would have liked to have seen the detail difference between the two ends of the former before greasing them up.
OMG.. very helpful video Eric. Struggling with some easy exposed lines that.. the tool I have now is just not producing good flares on. Convinced at this point that the cheapo tool.. is producing cheapo flares. :) Hoping the eastwoodtool ..
You Rock, Eric
good video and very good tool
Those sawed off sleeves are bad ass
Sweet gonna pick one of those up Eric.
Eric, Napa has one of these and I'd say its a better design. It's also only $25 or so.
Resurrecting an old video, but I just wanted to share a something that I seen on an 08 Hyundai Sonata. They used what looks to be brass compression fittings on the driver side from the factory. Look to be a different style of a feral but it’s definitely a compression fitting. Actually having to cut one of them out and replace it with a steel compression fitting to run a new brake line that rusted. The steel fitting that I’m using is a Grainger weatherhead. It’s designed to hold hydraulic pressure. Have you ever use these?
I bought this tool, works fantastically on steel, but very inconsistent with nicopp
Many reviews on Amazon for identical tool say the same.
omg, I had to do the same thing on my 94 civic. Tried to replace the rear wheel cylinder and the line twisted right off. Luckily it was the outside line and easy to get at.
nice video... was wondering about the lubricant mixing in with the brake fluid... seems like not a good thing
Eric you rock great work :)
Nice video man. 👌👍
I don't have time to read all the comments. I guess maybe someone else has allready asked you the same thing I will:
Why are you still using the double flare ?
I want to belive that the bubble flare is stronger....
Eric, you're a good wrench. However, with that kind of an area and knowing that it "rotted out" , ( I presume rusted out?) I'd be all for pulling the line out and installing a new line with fitting out of vehicle. Since one lines "rotted out", may as well pull the others one at a time and replace each.
+Don B You would be until you found out you need to drop the fuel tank to do that. It only rusted out in the one area. The rest of the line was fine. Thanks for your input.
EricTheCarGuy Fuel tank arrangements not withstanding, and having to do just that more than once, it's far easier than having to wrestle with one line. More room means faster repair time and less costs to the customer and a repeat happy customer at that. No worries.
+Don B We may have to agree to disagree on this one. Removing a rusty fuel tank from a car that sat in a field for a couple of years just doesn't seem like it would take less time to me. But, my way is not the only way of doing things and I respect your input.
ETCG1 Ah ha-1 So the mystery deepens. It's sat in a field and it's use now is for teaching. Great call on that. And with that in mind I'd have to agree. Leave it in place. However, for teaching purposes, it could be pulled to allow access and so as to afford any of your "students" the chance to see, what's in that dark mysterious place that you and I know to be more often than not, fraught with more than one issue. Rusted nuts on belly straps usually snap when I throw a half inch impact at it. I know a lot of the ones I did I soaked the living hell out of them with either Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster. worst case was to whip out the torch and heat it up just enough to get em to break free.
And we don't have to disagree. You're the teacher, I'm just looking on.
Be cool. Be safe too. Stress eye protection a tad more . Some of these back yards guys ( and gals) forget that rust or metal , let alone any thing else in the eyes is not pleasant. In every shop I worked in, if you were seen without eye wear? You're done for the day. In some cases, that tech was just done period.
Later !
+Don B I've done a TON of videos with this car over the years, so there's no shortage there. 2 things. There isn't a need to drop this fuel tank to get to the fuel pump as there's access through the trunk. Also, Honda's very rarely have issues with fuel delivery, AKA bad fuel pumps. Therefore, there would be very little value in a fuel tank removal video. th-cam.com/video/lLjGy6E-hM0/w-d-xo.html
Thanks Eric, got me out of a hole again
seus vídeos são sensacionais eric!
parabéns pelo trabalho
Great vid, thx for sharing!
Nice job
excellent tool. believe i would have changed the complete line,
good tool... wish I learn it before
Brilliant video and new subscriber. Cheers
Would like to see a review on the vacuum brake bleeder. Thanks for the video.
+dwoodog Honestly I didn't like using that much, it was kinda cumbersome. There are other tools that do the same thing for less money.