DIAGNOSE CUMMINS 12v 6BT LOW FUEL PRESSURE and Air bubbles in fuel Dodge Ram diesel
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ต.ค. 2024
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Follow me along as I troubleshoot low fuel pressure on the 12v Cummins 6bt in my 1996 dodge Ram 2500. A thumbs-up and comment is hugely appreciated if this helps you out! Also, sharing your experience in the comments below can help others in the future.
UPDATE: After a viewer told me that it's not a good idea to have the fuel pressure sensor mounted directly to the pump, I relocated the sensor over to the firewall with a short piece of fuel hose. This has corrected the fluctuating Needle on the fuel pressure gauge. To this day I still have tiny air bubbles in my return line, however the truck runs perfectly and I have been told by several people that this is normal. Of course I'll still leave this video up as I think it gives you a good general idea of how the low-pressure fuel system in this truck operates.
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Just an update on that pump from Amazon. It is now $140. Precision brand from Oreilly's for same price with warranty.
Great vid, young Brother. Diagnosis prior to dumping bucks on parts is the only way to go. Starting on mine this AM using these steps. MOST grateful for the vid and the great contribution to the Ram community.
Thanks for the update man! I really appreciate your comment and Good luck with your repair! A little feedback goes a long way, and keeps me motivated to keep putting videos that I I think somebody may find useful out there
This video was amazing. Just what I was looking for a complete diagnostic but left me hoping for part two. Though after reading the comments sounds like you are satisfied with the improvements. Hate throwing parts at vehicles so these diagnostic steps will be a life saver, thanks!!
channelurviews thanks for your comment man and glad to hear the video helped out some! I apologize for not doing the second part video. After adding an extension hose on my snubber and smoothing out the fuel pressure needle, everything on the truck has been working perfectly so I haven't messed with it since. It seems that a tiny bit of little air bubbles in the return line is normal based on what I've seen. Thanks again for watching!
This is golden knowledge shared video. Thank you for sharing your finding sir. This very usefull me as I'm diesel tuner and lover. Sometimes I missed to check the simple things first and end up wasting time and money by brought wrong faulty spare parts.
Thanks man, glad to hear you found it helpful and I appreciate you commenting
Any time you move a liquid air bubbles form in that liquid also the fuel filter mounted on the motor causes the filter to shake causing air bubbles it's normal for a certain amount of air bubbles to be in a fuel system the air bubbles get returned back to the vented tank the needle bouncing is because the lift pump is a stroke pump
Hey man nice job on your videos. Thank you for the in depth clear close ups and sharing all the research you have learned and shared.
rawkins27 thank you very much for the feedback! I'm glad the video was helpful
Just to say what I did, due to problems I was having. I used clear line where it can be used, and that's where I found my air problem. Took. Out my banjo bolts and went to the local diesel shop for Barb fittings. Process of elimination with clear line. Heater was shot. So, I ended up replacing all the banjo bolts and fuel lines...
Thanks for sharing man!
Hey buddy. My truck acts like I’m red lining it at 2200 rpms but once I go pass that is comes out of it. When I’m in neutral and I push the paddle all the way down and let go, it will blow black smoke then white smoke will follow behind it. It pops and crackles when I rev it up. I put new thoroughbred 150 injectors n it to see if it would fix the problem but it didn’t. I put a new fuel filter on it and clean the pre-filter out. It’s a 94 12 valve.
Thanks buddy for the approach methods at least she got a lil better did u find the prob and make part 2
What do you have covering your battery cable terminals? Great video as usual!
I usually rub Vaseline or grease on them. And then there are just some bags covering that because I kept leaning into it. And thanks!
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow I changed my batteries to group 31's with studs on top.Put ring terminal connectors on the cables and smaller wires that go to bat terminals.Had this setup now for 8 years and never a sign of corrosion plus group 31's have 1000 CCA.
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Many years ago an electrical engineer told me about using grease on battery terminal. Simply the best way to prevent corrosion!
On Amazon:
*ADJUSTABLE OVERFLOW VALVE: amzn.to/36ZdSRH
*AUTOMETER FUEL PSI GAUGE: amzn.to/2UrGj8g
*BANJO BOLT ADAPTER: amzn.to/2GYsqXa
*FUEL BOWL SCREEN/GASKET KIT: amzn.to/2ujHegj
*AUTOMETER SNUBBER: amzn.to/2vTnaSn
*FUEL PSI TEST KIT: amzn.to/39oaIbD
*COOLANT PRESSURE TEST KIT: amzn.to/2OKUotF
~My Other 2nd Gen Ram Videos: bit.ly/2TLhJLQ
I know this was a long time ago but I have the same thing with the fuel gauge any time I do anything with the fuel system. It won’t go away untill I put the truck into a high gear and get on it. Make it work and really pour the fuel. Seems to clean it up. Something to try if your having those issues.
Sounds like maybe they are bubbles in your system are causing it. Adding a snubber and relocating V fuel pressure sensor to a remote location solved by issue. It seems having it mounted right on the pump was causing problems
NoNonsenseKnowHow
Weird. Ya I have mine mounted there. But it only does it right after I introduce air. Like fuel filter. Then it’s fine until I’m into the system again.
@@chevy6794 I would recommend relocating it personally. Really smooth out my gauge. Plus being mounted to the engine, the vibrations overtime can hurt the sensor
NoNonsenseKnowHow. Makes sense. Thanks. You just run a line and mount it to the fire wall?
@@chevy6794 yeah I got a stainless steel fuel rated line from Amazon
Nice video Can you recall what fuel cap you used ? Did you seal it with anything where the fuel line went through the cap?
ray moody sorry no I don't. I just went in my caps drawer and grabbed something that fit
I don't have the stainless braided lines. There's soft rubber lines with hose clamps. That's where I'm getting my problem at take off
I was told you don't need all that much fuel pressure on a p pump, as long as the fuel reservoir on the pump is keeping topped up?
Yeah I'm sure it would be fine with low pressure, but I personally like to have things operating at factory spec
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Just worried because I just got it rebuilt because the plunger was sticking 💰💰💰 haha
@@vendetta1306 gotcha. yeah I honestly I don't know enough about these p pumps to say whether the low fuel pressure could really hurt the pump or not. Mine's been running great though!
How the hell do you get that over flow valve out Grind the head down ?
I think I grinded the bracket
Did you ever find out where the air in the return line was coming from
Unfortunately I did not. After this video, a few of my diesel buddies said that it was normal. It still puzzles me a little bit because there's clearly no air going in. But maybe it's just the fuel being disturbed and then going through the pump and all that. The truck runs absolutely perfect so I never messed with it further. I was hoping that maybe with this video some other people might have Insight that I can look further into. Do you have bubbles in yours?
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow thanks i have a buddy with a 94 that only has 15 psi at all conditions reduardless of rpm then starts to lope real bad and dies
Appreciate it
I have a 97 dodge cummins and i have a problem my truck started this morning then when i went to start it again it never started again and i opened the bleed screw on filter and air came out and i cranked it and while cranking no fuel came out so i tried using the primer push plunger and was able to get fuel to over flow out the bleeder screw but still wouldnt start. I opened the injector lines and cranked it and no fuel would come out so im stuck with a crank no start now does anyone might know why my problem might be? Seems i am not getting any fuel to the p-pump so if anyone can help me would be greatly appreciated
Honestly without actually looking at it it's hard to try and diagnose it. But with the information in this video, if you go through all these checks you should be able to pinpoint or at least get closer to a solution. Sorry I couldn't be of more assistance. Let me know what you find out
u need a schrader valve on the fuel pressure gauge just barley open
Chris Herron I ended up adding a small section of fuel hose and mounting the pressure sensor about a foot away. And that Smoothed out the needle
Did it have a lope to it at lower rpm’s?
Mine has a lope at an idle worse when it is cold goes away a little bit when it's warmed up seems like my fuel pressure gauge is spiking around just like this but I already have this snumber and it is already mounted to the fender with this steel stainless steel line
Are you sure the bubbles are not normal?
Everything I've read said that your diesel fuel Supply should ideally have no air bubbles in it at all. And to me, I would think that since I see Zero air bubbles going in the clear line I should see 0 air bubbles coming out of the return. But yes, in the end it seems that this is pretty normal. However the steps I demonstrate in this video would be good for somebody to follow who is getting excessive air in their fuel. Thank you for your comment.
What ended up being the problem? I have a similar problem.
burt CoKain honestly I was able to dramatically reduce the amount of bubbles. However in the end I still have very tiny air bubbles coming in my return line. I'm starting to think it's normal cuz the truck runs perfectly fine and I have excellent fuel pressure that is steady now
burt CoKain how bad is the air in yours? A lot of bubbles? Any running issues?
Where was the air coming from
Never got rid of it entirely. Truck runs fine though so I haven't messed with it anymore. After speaking with a few diesel guys, it seems it's pretty normal to see this on the return
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Having a hard time changing the lyft pump It's starving for fuel ,cant hear turbo
@@johnmaxx4818 got you. Yeah it's a little tight in there to replace that. Some guys go from underneath. Depends if you have a hydraulic booster or not. Vacuum booster easier. Did you see my video on how to replace the pump?
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow yea it took a air chisel on edge of line to loosen,Yea
Bad injectors
I took the return line from the injectors out of the equation in this video. And it's still had aie bubbles