#ad Head to sovol3d.com/products/sovol-sv06-direct-drive-3d-printer?sca_ref=2784626.QgTM1uaIAj and use the promo code Proper for $20,- off. This promotion is available till Dec. 20th and when the price is (over) $259,-. We are going to make this work! I hope you enjoy this journey and if you have any suggestions, let us know!
To get the resin to better sit where it is extruded, you might try adding a low boiling point solvent and using the part cooling or heater block to boil it off just after extrusion. Hexane or IPA might be perfect. Of course, it might ruin the resin.
Once things are better worked out, an obvious suggestion would be to replace the attached lasers with a fiber optic light feed. LEDs might be cheaper too.
Moving the UV light out of the nozzle should improve things quite a bit - less resin stuck to the nozzle means less failures and more consistent "extrusion". Ideal setup would be ring light like arrangement where the nozzle stays dark and the curing process starts some distance from the nozzle. Might be worth experimenting with using clear resin prints as a light pipe (transparent plastic part stuck to the LEDs).
You, my guy, are on WHOOOOLE another level.... The creativity in your brain is just out of this world for both Video (editing and ideas) and Engineering. Hands down.
I remember seeing a printer with same concept as this at FormNext last year by Massivit 3D. As far as I recall they use a photocurable and water-soluble "gel" with exactly the same process for hardening as shown here. They also have a second extruder with thermoset resin. So you can print a soluble mold with this uv-fdm process and fill it with thermoset resin at the same time. Anyway, it's an amazing start!
We are glad to sponsor this video! I really admire your interesting idea and the ability to work it out! Additionally, hope to see more people check out the SV06 by the link in the description of the video😁
@@Demonicwolf9 No, not at all. We have came a long way in tech and there is a lot of really good people out there putting in the work. I was asking for his opinion on the subject matter and nothing more.
This project is amazing. To prevent the resin from sticking to the nozzle, a cone around the nozzle might help or angle the UV lights in a different way. Ensuring there is no way the resin cures near the nozzle. As others already pointed out an enclosure might help as well to avoid unwanted light and keep the temperature more constant. Best regards
To get more control on the flow, you should try a couple things. 1. Funnel feeding 2. Stronger pump that feeds an elaßtic reservoir like a think silicone tube 3. A pinch valve. I used that setup to make a reaserch platform for molecular gastronomy, it works great.
Try angling the uv lights so that the beam is at least a few mm from the nozzle. And at that point I think you could use a little less thickener to keep it from balling up, because those uv lights seem to cure pretty fast.
You should use silica to thicken the resin. It's what we use in the industry if we need a resin to be more viscous. The glass bubbles are used in similar lines, but reduce strength etc. The silica powder is also translucent so should cure even better.
Never stop experimenting, omg this is what the community needs! more creative people who are willing to push the limits of current technology while thinking outside the box!!
Congratulations on taking a standard FDM printer, adding some fun chemistry/materials and added hardware, and creating the beast of both worlds! Surprisingly good results thus far. The challenges are it seems to be subject to the failure modes you can expect from both types of printing and printers combined, including the issue of the fumes you need to avoid breathing. Hopefully it can be figured out well enough to counter the cost of the problems with better results than either type alone can do. I see your methodology and if it can be done, it won't be too long before it is done. Sovol must love watching their printers being hacked like this! Should you get it working well enough, perhaps they'll sell a kit based off your work.
As a guy who had to work on Ipro8000's, and now consumer level fdm... Try accura extreme white or watershed clear if you can get a hold of them. Their viscosity and photosensitivity may be the best solution to some of these issues you are having. Thanks for the Stroopwaffels at ERRF too!
More amazing than the printing is how you can also film it and tell the story. If I was working on a project like this it would definitely be stuff absolutely everywhere. I am always amazed how people make such innovative projects at the same time as making entertaining content. When I build somthing everything is a mess untill its done. (Typically half done)
Use AEROSIL 200 for thixing the resin (high viscosity when still, lower viscosity when moving). And Byk Chemie for Wetting and dispersing and anti settling additive.
I get so excited about your designs and show my friends but none of them know anything about 3D printing so it all just sounds ordinary to them... I can't even begin to explain the level of engineering involved! I love your videos, they keep me so inspired!
EXCELLENT. Seems a bit smaller nozzle, and possibly an internal check-valve that requires a bit of pressure to allow goo passage, but with no back pressure shuts off.
if u use a resin bottle with one pipe directly to the nozzle dpped to the very bottom into the resin and one pipe into the bottle from the top only 2 cm in the air inside the bottle, and then pressure the second pipe with higher pressure air from your pump, the resin does not have to go through your pump. think about curing in a different pass when printing, then you can use more fluid resin.
you could control precisely the amount of resin by using system like in diesel cars "common rail" the nozzle is opened/closed electronically while pump just keeps the right amount of pressure
Hi. Once I had this idea and I tried to do it with UV Leds and a syringe for the resin. I used clear resin to continue curing after the nozzle was on another layer and used a "hat" to protect the nozzle from UV light. See you.
Would it help to build a scrubber (like an upside down toothbrush) off to one side of the build plate that could scrub the nozzle after 'X' number of layers? The only issue is how to mount it so that the print head doesn't have to travel up and down in X, Y, and Z to achieve the nozzle cleaning and return back to printing layer in a lot of time? One thought: Since this is a bed-slinger test bed, You could mount the scrubber on the Z traverse bar and a simple gcode routine of sending the nozzle all the to the right, and a little back and forth motion could scrub it and then send it back to the printing area at the new layer height.
Although I can't think of a single practical application for this I've always wondered if it's possible and I'm happy to see there's somebody doing it for once! Still, the only advantage I can think of is the possibility of better bridging and development of future processes but that doesn't make it any less exciting.
about continuous fiber printing, with thermoplastics, I did my own thinkering : 1st, except if the fiber can be streched under high enough temperature, the filament diameter will have to be the nozzle diameter, elseway, you will have too much plastic in the nozzle not being able to freely flow. 2nd using continous copper fiber coextruded with PLA or PETG could add the functionnality of working electical connections in print, though the fiber filament may need to be wrapped aroud a star-shape terminal to ensure that an electrical terminal gets direct contact to the copper fibers 3rd for the coextrusion process, I though about pultruding a pet ribbon along a stripped electrical wire in a 0.8mm nozzle, a 0.22 mm2 wire have a diameter of 0.5mm, leaving space but also not too much for the PET aroun it
I would shield the nozzle from the UV light to avoid curing it while the resin mixture is touching the nozzle. It should be thick enough to not flow away if the curing starts like .1 seconds after being dispensed.
I think you could get really good results here with a few adjustments - screw pump gravity fed by a hopper - higher viscosity resin mix - shade the nozzle so that resin stuck to it doesn't cure - more light intensity and slower print speed
You should add a wipe channel on the bed somewhere. Like a v-slot the same angle as the nozzle then and g-code every layer or so to go wipe the nozzle. Or even just and upside down brush.
Just found your channel with this video. Thanks to the YT algorithm for bringing me a real gem! Such a cool idea for resin FDM printing, really out of the box thinking. Love it!!
Thanks for your suggestion. I designed a non-pulsating pump ;) I like that nothing, except for the tube, comes in contact with the resin and it doesn't have a limited volume.
Keep in mind just because something doesn't work the first few tries, still doesn't mean it isn't the right solution with some adjustments. I would try a lower viscosity (lower viscosity means less nozzle buildup and clogs) it seems right now, the nozzle is being hit with so much uv you are getting buildup. Then add a UV laser (or a strong uv light + lens) pointed at the tip (a ring of uv light might be worth a try). You want to make it easy to pump thin layers and cure them very quickly but shield the nozzle (maybe even a shade cone). There are many other thickeners you can try as well such as ceramics (silica based) which will give strength and heat resistance or starch for a more rubbery print. I think the best use for this technology would be printing ceramics with very little binder/resin not only for strength but for the possibility of burning off the binder and sintering the ceramics.
You should consider using a syringe pump, much higher accuracy and will let you not worry about pumping while you figure out the other problems. You can buy ground glass syringes or just use disposable ones.
I'm amazed. This could be a revolutionary new 3d printer category. In fact I'm sure it will be. This is actually so cool and fascinating. I'm sure once this is well done out it could compete in the same way fdm and resin do. It'll be the same case of that this has certain advantages over the other, so in certain applications it'll be better. Truly amazing
Thanks! It's fun to experiment with this and come up with new insights of what's possible. I'm convinced that we're going to find some interesting applications!
these UV resin deposit machines currently exist at our facility we have several of them to pop out large forms, indeed we print in continuous mode. nice work.
Geweldig! Je hebt het precies aangepakt zoals ik het zou doen. Wat ik me nu bedenk is dat je de printhead lichter kan krijgen als je een even sterk signaal kan maken met 1 UV lamp en een lens om het brandpunt precies op print hoogte te krijgen. Dat idee met glasvezels vond ik ook mooi out-of-the-box maar ook wel vrij complex. Voor het gewicht van zo'n opstelling zou een enkele high power UV LED dat ook voldoende moeten zijn. Ben benieuwd naar de volgende iteratie!
I'm really amazed to see how far you are making progress. This custom made resin and the whole process with the pump could technically work on bigger scale, similar to industrial cement printers
This is basically what some of the new very high end color 3d printers do (if you want an idea of what they can do, look up heroforge miniatures, they make custom figurines for tabletop gaming and have an option to print in color), but they are using modified inkjet print heads instead of an extruder designed for filament to deposit the resin, and that allows them to mix pretty much whatever colors they want from just 3 to 6 colors of resin (primary colors + possibly clear and/or black/white). Those printers still cost tens of thousands of dollars and are huge though.
You could have used ANYTHING as a thickener, even wheat flour. No need to get silicosis for that. You should also try to collimate the black light further and to shield the nozzle with a small cup, to avoid reflections. Also, something few know is that photopolymers DO LIKE HEAT. As a matter of fact, the HIGHER the temperature of the resin, the FASTER it cures, the less viscous it gets, which is a GOOD thing. So, for resin to work, you should have considered it as a filament, pouring it through a heated nozzle. This way, you can print a lot faster. You're going the wrong direction here. Use the smallest nozzle, HEAT IT around 70 celsius(max 80), do not thicken resin and print FAST. Try this and thank me later. Yes, I'm that confident. Just remember the following: lower temperature, more viscosity, slower speed. So, the higher the temp, the higher the printing speed. There are some scientific papers on this. I'll try to find the link to the specific paper I read, but, generally speaking, the curve in the experiments I've seen don't see benefits over 80 celsius, which gives you the fastest curing time (below 0.6 seconds).
I wish to share an idea, I had patent pending. I originally had an aquarium of liquid resin. A plate is submerged just below the surface. An inkjet deposits photo reactive hardener and colorant while a UV lamp cures the mix. Another approach could be to put down a thin layer of resin on the bottom of the aquarium then use the inkjet to add color and photo reactant. Each layer would be a full color photograph film. If the film is neutrally bouyant the resin becomes support. It's a fully liquid version of the powder bed with color and glue without the fuzzy texture. I had thought to add a different inkjet color to make a fiber or solid or flexible set of dots. Epson heads are better for pushing out the doping liquids.
Try fumed silica instead of bubble glass. It's a thickening agent that also happens to lower viscosity somewhat when being put under shear stress, ie when it is stirred, pumped, or extruded. It also won't float and might improve part strength once cured
I have made a paste extruder and also considered using a resin base paste for photo curing. I would use regular UV LEDs and make a “hat” to cast a shadow to the tip of the nozzle. If you solved the light scattering issue I would say that the laser light is too concentrated for this application. Instead of a “hat “ you could use a more obtuse nozzle tip and raise the light source (to cast shadows).
Maybe you should use hard tubing everywhere EXCEPT the peristaltic pump. By using the soft silicone tubing to feed the extruder, I would imagine there is quite a bit of expansion/hysteresis that could be messing up your flow rate as the pressure on the nozzle changes.
proposed amendments: 1.instead of a pump, use a container with a plunger (such as a syringe) pushed by a screw - better control of the flow and dosing of the medium 2.stiff tubes - walls resistant to pressure (again better flow control) 3.pipes splitter just before the print head (easy change of printing material) 4. (optional) degassing of the material in the vacuum chamber before filling the feeders.
another super cool thing (i think already mentioned in the video?) would be to print polymer solutions: PVB in alcohol, styrene filaments in acetone, or even chitosan would be awesome
One thing you could possibly do is use chopped fiberglass, carbon fiber, or kevlar fibers to make the paste. It will probably come with a number of clogging issues, but it could also definitely help with strength.
This is a really interesting and intriguing series. It really makes the imagination run wild. I wonder if the peristaltic pump might work better if the resin is stored in a reservoir above the pump to allow for gravity feed instead of forcing the pump to draw the resin upwards against gravity. You could even incorporate a mixing mechanism to keep the resin from separating before it is pumped.
Small scale MASSIVit printer. 3d print nerd had it on his channel. Could you use heat make the resin more liquid? So then you can tie flow rate to temp for any resin. Overhang free prints too…
An interesting subject would be to heat up the resin to print extremely high viscous yet high performance resins! This would only work if the additive is not the weakest point though.
To me it looks like there is some shadow under the nozzle where it isnt curing instantly, perhaps getting the lasers closer to it will cure faster and prevent it from sticking to the nozzle.
You've seen correct! In the previous attempt I showed my monkey brain solution to cast a shadow there. I have an idea for a different, yet quite similar approach ;)
I feel like uv lights hardening part needs work. Since it hardens on the nozzle. Shield of sorts? Lenses to focus light beam? Timer it on/off for layers? Having them on the side shining (blowing) across the printbed like the superfast vorons,vzbot, and nitrams printer?
I don't know if this is premature optimization, but i would try using stiffer tube before and after the pump so you can prevent ballooning of the tube.
maybe attach led in ring around nozzle and with soft control witch diod will light? you will have more controll on curing. You could code that diod that passed path of nozzle only fire. so there will be less "uv light leakage"
A nozzle made from Delrin or PTFE might get less resin stuck to it, or maybe spraying the brass nozzle with non-stick (like the stuff used on pans) would be enough?
I'm going to make a custom nozzle which has a parallel tip to make the angle 90 degrees. I hope that this will be better already. This will not be like a syringe needle though since that is too flexible.
Would like to see you revise this ditching the parametric pump I think the problem is the surges a syringe type delivery system should be more consistent
0.3 mm after having deposited the resin, it must polymerize and be polymerized no later than 0.6 mm, the uvc intensity and the effectiveness of the catalyst must synergistically work within those distances
I keep a jar of glass microballoons on my desk at work for the sole reason that if you shake it, air gets trapped between them, and it behaves like a fluid for a few seconds until the air works its way out. It's fun to play with
Still impressive... and has POTENTIAL for future research and technology. I have absolutely no doubt this could be a step in the direction to something better than both FDM and resin printing. (and it could lead to much stronger resin prints that can have much more strength than FDM or any plastic).
I feel like if you made the extruder tip larger, domed, and wrapped it in FEP film and put the light at a lower angle it'd help a lot with the resin sticking to the tip. Just a thought.
I'm sure you have but have you seen Massivit? Its a gel resin 3d printer for large part printing. I wonder if they would be willing to give you some pointers on resin or design. One thing I noticed from watching their printers is that it looks like it has a UV shield around the nozzle and the UV lights are pointing downwards not right at the nozzle.
Yes I did. I got this idea just before I saw Joel's video. The lasers already cast a shadow where the nozzle is and I have an idea how we could improve on that ;)
I wonder how precise it would be if you attached a hair-thin flexible piece of titanium within the extruder somehow that extended slightly, and then slightly lowered the uv lights… probably need more focused light and a way to block them from upward exposure.
Very cool. Your resin reminded me of those pottery clay printers. I think they use a worm-drive pump and syringe pump. Would help with the flow. Also a shroud around the nozzle to block UV.
Probably need to put pump closer on the extruder (may be even a small tank+pump on the extruder and additional pump to fill it). Flexing tubes make flow inconsistent.
That's an interesting thought. I think that the risk of curing inside of the nozzle will be increased though. I still have to find the best possible print surface for this.
Maybe instead of using light curing resin, you could print a different resin into a container that fills with a curing agent to cure each layer as it prints. Similar to a defunct Kickstarter I nearly backed called the peachy printer.
That would be an interesting approach. A second pump could do this. What I like about the curing is that it goes from liquid to solid within just seconds which makes bridging possible. Especially when using fibers eventually!
Try using ABS filament with a misting resin/acetone mix spray with curing lasers. You should get ABS with stronger layer adhesion and smoother layers.... If I had the time and money I'd try building this myself......
#ad Head to sovol3d.com/products/sovol-sv06-direct-drive-3d-printer?sca_ref=2784626.QgTM1uaIAj and use the promo code Proper for $20,- off. This promotion is available till Dec. 20th and when the price is (over) $259,-.
We are going to make this work! I hope you enjoy this journey and if you have any suggestions, let us know!
To get the resin to better sit where it is extruded, you might try adding a low boiling point solvent and using the part cooling or heater block to boil it off just after extrusion. Hexane or IPA might be perfect. Of course, it might ruin the resin.
What size nozzle are you using? You could ask Max for suggestions
Once things are better worked out, an obvious suggestion would be to replace the attached lasers with a fiber optic light feed. LEDs might be cheaper too.
try adding grinded down cured resin as a thickening agent. should have the same density as uncured resin.
Moving the UV light out of the nozzle should improve things quite a bit - less resin stuck to the nozzle means less failures and more consistent "extrusion". Ideal setup would be ring light like arrangement where the nozzle stays dark and the curing process starts some distance from the nozzle. Might be worth experimenting with using clear resin prints as a light pipe (transparent plastic part stuck to the LEDs).
You, my guy, are on WHOOOOLE another level.... The creativity in your brain is just out of this world for both Video (editing and ideas) and Engineering. Hands down.
Thanks man, really appreciated!
Thanks for saying that my friend. 😇🌎✨
Could u please share the STL model of the extruder online???? thanks
I remember seeing a printer with same concept as this at FormNext last year by Massivit 3D. As far as I recall they use a photocurable and water-soluble "gel" with exactly the same process for hardening as shown here. They also have a second extruder with thermoset resin.
So you can print a soluble mold with this uv-fdm process and fill it with thermoset resin at the same time.
Anyway, it's an amazing start!
So instant curing or after finishing the layer?
What is the patent scenario around this concept? Patent attorneys can be painfully humorless.
@@ulrichkliegis4138 ViscoTec Pumpen- u. Dosiertechnik Gmb produces Moineau pump extruder called vipro-HEAD, around 4k euro.
@@jzagaja What does this have to do with a potential patent conflict situation?
@@ulrichkliegis4138 same principle?
pretty cool progress 👏😎
..love your hidden humor, always cracks me 😂
Thanks Adrian!
I kept pausing the video and going back to make sure i didn't miss any easter eggs lol
We are glad to sponsor this video! I really admire your interesting idea and the ability to work it out! Additionally, hope to see more people check out the SV06 by the link in the description of the video😁
I'm glad you sponsored it! Thanks! I also hope that they do, we we're surprised by this printer and it showed that you put thought into it.
How do you feel about 3D printed firearms?
Do you really think you could print a firearm with resin? Rather, you can print a brain. You can get your hopes up.
@@squirlboy250 dangerously stupid
@@Demonicwolf9 No, not at all. We have came a long way in tech and there is a lot of really good people out there putting in the work. I was asking for his opinion on the subject matter and nothing more.
This project is amazing. To prevent the resin from sticking to the nozzle, a cone around the nozzle might help or angle the UV lights in a different way. Ensuring there is no way the resin cures near the nozzle. As others already pointed out an enclosure might help as well to avoid unwanted light and keep the temperature more constant.
Best regards
I was thinking a little of that ptfe coating stuff that slice engineering sells or ptfe spray applied to the nozle using a towel.
To get more control on the flow, you should try a couple things.
1. Funnel feeding
2. Stronger pump that feeds an elaßtic reservoir like a think silicone tube
3. A pinch valve.
I used that setup to make a reaserch platform for molecular gastronomy, it works great.
That would be highly nonlinear and not a good idea at all.
Or just a standard motor driven syringe system with a 1mm bore capillary tube to the print head.
Try angling the uv lights so that the beam is at least a few mm from the nozzle. And at that point I think you could use a little less thickener to keep it from balling up, because those uv lights seem to cure pretty fast.
You should use silica to thicken the resin. It's what we use in the industry if we need a resin to be more viscous. The glass bubbles are used in similar lines, but reduce strength etc.
The silica powder is also translucent so should cure even better.
The production level goes up every video. The yarn and project board were the nice touch this time.
Never stop experimenting, omg this is what the community needs! more creative people who are willing to push the limits of current technology while thinking outside the box!!
Congratulations on taking a standard FDM printer, adding some fun chemistry/materials and added hardware, and creating the beast of both worlds!
Surprisingly good results thus far. The challenges are it seems to be subject to the failure modes you can expect from both types of printing and printers combined, including the issue of the fumes you need to avoid breathing. Hopefully it can be figured out well enough to counter the cost of the problems with better results than either type alone can do.
I see your methodology and if it can be done, it won't be too long before it is done.
Sovol must love watching their printers being hacked like this!
Should you get it working well enough, perhaps they'll sell a kit based off your work.
As a guy who had to work on Ipro8000's, and now consumer level fdm...
Try accura extreme white or watershed clear if you can get a hold of them. Their viscosity and photosensitivity may be the best solution to some of these issues you are having.
Thanks for the Stroopwaffels at ERRF too!
Thanks for your suggestion! Also, you're welcome!
A complete rim with fdm resin continous fiber!?!? You are madman! A genius madman that is
More amazing than the printing is how you can also film it and tell the story. If I was working on a project like this it would definitely be stuff absolutely everywhere. I am always amazed how people make such innovative projects at the same time as making entertaining content. When I build somthing everything is a mess untill its done. (Typically half done)
Soooooo good to see that you're making progress. I hope to see more fine tuning and where this train rides to. I wish you all the best !
Use AEROSIL 200 for thixing the resin (high viscosity when still, lower viscosity when moving). And Byk Chemie for Wetting and dispersing and anti settling additive.
That's interesting, thanks for your suggestion!
I was having a bad day.. Until this video's notification came! Thanks for uploading these awesome "adventures" of yours!
check the frame at min 08:12. i like the shadow circle around the nozzle maybe it can prevent clogging
Another killer video man! It's so awesome to see your ideas and goals working!! I can't wait to see where you take this!
I get so excited about your designs and show my friends but none of them know anything about 3D printing so it all just sounds ordinary to them... I can't even begin to explain the level of engineering involved!
I love your videos, they keep me so inspired!
I love how you stay consistent and growing! Keep it up!
No one has ever done it better so... until someone comes up with good looking parts using CDM, those are high quality prints : ) Great video as usual.
EXCELLENT. Seems a bit smaller nozzle, and possibly an internal check-valve that requires a bit of pressure to allow goo passage, but with no back pressure shuts off.
if u use a resin bottle with one pipe directly to the nozzle dpped to the very bottom into the resin and one pipe into the bottle from the top only 2 cm in the air inside the bottle, and then pressure the second pipe with higher pressure air from your pump, the resin does not have to go through your pump. think about curing in a different pass when printing, then you can use more fluid resin.
Considering the difficulty of this project, I'd say that last benchy is extremely impressive! Great work! 😁
you could control precisely the amount of resin by using system like in diesel cars "common rail" the nozzle is opened/closed electronically while pump just keeps the right amount of pressure
Daunting, yet interesting🤔
Simply AMAZING. Hope you get it perfect and someone sponsor your idea in the market. You deserve it👍
Would be interesting to see the physical strength comparison of these prints vs standard pla, and standard resin prints.
That'd be interesting for sure!
Hi. Once I had this idea and I tried to do it with UV Leds and a syringe for the resin. I used clear resin to continue curing after the nozzle was on another layer and used a "hat" to protect the nozzle from UV light.
See you.
Congrats, my friend! That's a fantástic beginning and contribuition for the marker comunity. Looking foward for the next vídeos about It!
Would it help to build a scrubber (like an upside down toothbrush) off to one side of the build plate that could scrub the nozzle after 'X' number of layers? The only issue is how to mount it so that the print head doesn't have to travel up and down in X, Y, and Z to achieve the nozzle cleaning and return back to printing layer in a lot of time? One thought: Since this is a bed-slinger test bed, You could mount the scrubber on the Z traverse bar and a simple gcode routine of sending the nozzle all the to the right, and a little back and forth motion could scrub it and then send it back to the printing area at the new layer height.
I've been hype about this video FOR MORE THAN 2 WEEKS!
Although I can't think of a single practical application for this I've always wondered if it's possible and I'm happy to see there's somebody doing it for once!
Still, the only advantage I can think of is the possibility of better bridging and development of future processes but that doesn't make it any less exciting.
about continuous fiber printing, with thermoplastics, I did my own thinkering :
1st, except if the fiber can be streched under high enough temperature, the filament diameter will have to be the nozzle diameter, elseway, you will have too much plastic in the nozzle not being able to freely flow.
2nd using continous copper fiber coextruded with PLA or PETG could add the functionnality of working electical connections in print, though the fiber filament may need to be wrapped aroud a star-shape terminal to ensure that an electrical terminal gets direct contact to the copper fibers
3rd for the coextrusion process, I though about pultruding a pet ribbon along a stripped electrical wire in a 0.8mm nozzle, a 0.22 mm2 wire have a diameter of 0.5mm, leaving space but also not too much for the PET aroun it
Impressive! Thanks for sharing this adventure, I didn't think you were going to get it to work at all :D
I would shield the nozzle from the UV light to avoid curing it while the resin mixture is touching the nozzle. It should be thick enough to not flow away if the curing starts like .1 seconds after being dispensed.
I was expecting the Whiteboard to fall off the wall as your friend closed the door! I am a little disappointed but still love the video!! 😅
This crossed our minds, but that thing was so damn heavy😆
Looks like the new issue is resin sticking to the nozzle, maybe some kind of non stick coating on the nozzle would help
I think you could get really good results here with a few adjustments
- screw pump gravity fed by a hopper
- higher viscosity resin mix
- shade the nozzle so that resin stuck to it doesn't cure
- more light intensity and slower print speed
You should add a wipe channel on the bed somewhere. Like a v-slot the same angle as the nozzle then and g-code every layer or so to go wipe the nozzle. Or even just and upside down brush.
Just found your channel with this video. Thanks to the YT algorithm for bringing me a real gem! Such a cool idea for resin FDM printing, really out of the box thinking. Love it!!
You are super awesome! You have the right recipe! Patience, Persistence and Perseverance! I’m so proud of you!
Consider a syringe pump. They are ideal for precise linear dosing. Peristaltic pumps are generally pulsatile and best for precise bulk transfers.
Thanks for your suggestion. I designed a non-pulsating pump ;) I like that nothing, except for the tube, comes in contact with the resin and it doesn't have a limited volume.
Keep in mind just because something doesn't work the first few tries, still doesn't mean it isn't the right solution with some adjustments. I would try a lower viscosity (lower viscosity means less nozzle buildup and clogs) it seems right now, the nozzle is being hit with so much uv you are getting buildup. Then add a UV laser (or a strong uv light + lens) pointed at the tip (a ring of uv light might be worth a try). You want to make it easy to pump thin layers and cure them very quickly but shield the nozzle (maybe even a shade cone). There are many other thickeners you can try as well such as ceramics (silica based) which will give strength and heat resistance or starch for a more rubbery print. I think the best use for this technology would be printing ceramics with very little binder/resin not only for strength but for the possibility of burning off the binder and sintering the ceramics.
You should consider using a syringe pump, much higher accuracy and will let you not worry about pumping while you figure out the other problems. You can buy ground glass syringes or just use disposable ones.
I'm amazed. This could be a revolutionary new 3d printer category. In fact I'm sure it will be. This is actually so cool and fascinating. I'm sure once this is well done out it could compete in the same way fdm and resin do. It'll be the same case of that this has certain advantages over the other, so in certain applications it'll be better. Truly amazing
Thanks! It's fun to experiment with this and come up with new insights of what's possible. I'm convinced that we're going to find some interesting applications!
I've had this idea kicking around for ages of a dual nozzle FDM and Resin printer. FDM to draw vasemode, Resin for the infill.
So is the goal to basically print resin impregnated yarn?
Yes!
these UV resin deposit machines currently exist at our facility we have several of them to pop out large forms, indeed we print in continuous mode. nice work.
Geweldig! Je hebt het precies aangepakt zoals ik het zou doen. Wat ik me nu bedenk is dat je de printhead lichter kan krijgen als je een even sterk signaal kan maken met 1 UV lamp en een lens om het brandpunt precies op print hoogte te krijgen. Dat idee met glasvezels vond ik ook mooi out-of-the-box maar ook wel vrij complex. Voor het gewicht van zo'n opstelling zou een enkele high power UV LED dat ook voldoende moeten zijn. Ben benieuwd naar de volgende iteratie!
I'm really amazed to see how far you are making progress.
This custom made resin and the whole process with the pump could technically work on bigger scale, similar to industrial cement printers
Thanks! Yes I'm pumped about the possibilities this enables!
Nice! Looking forward to seeing the continuous fiber printing! :D
This is the start of a game changer, i will be watching your progress, keep the the good work.
This is basically what some of the new very high end color 3d printers do (if you want an idea of what they can do, look up heroforge miniatures, they make custom figurines for tabletop gaming and have an option to print in color), but they are using modified inkjet print heads instead of an extruder designed for filament to deposit the resin, and that allows them to mix pretty much whatever colors they want from just 3 to 6 colors of resin (primary colors + possibly clear and/or black/white). Those printers still cost tens of thousands of dollars and are huge though.
What a year this channel has had. Very impressing.
You could have used ANYTHING as a thickener, even wheat flour. No need to get silicosis for that.
You should also try to collimate the black light further and to shield the nozzle with a small cup, to avoid reflections.
Also, something few know is that photopolymers DO LIKE HEAT. As a matter of fact, the HIGHER the temperature of the resin, the FASTER it cures, the less viscous it gets, which is a GOOD thing. So, for resin to work, you should have considered it as a filament, pouring it through a heated nozzle. This way, you can print a lot faster.
You're going the wrong direction here. Use the smallest nozzle, HEAT IT around 70 celsius(max 80), do not thicken resin and print FAST. Try this and thank me later.
Yes, I'm that confident.
Just remember the following: lower temperature, more viscosity, slower speed. So, the higher the temp, the higher the printing speed. There are some scientific papers on this. I'll try to find the link to the specific paper I read, but, generally speaking, the curve in the experiments I've seen don't see benefits over 80 celsius, which gives you the fastest curing time (below 0.6 seconds).
I wish to share an idea, I had patent pending. I originally had an aquarium of liquid resin. A plate is submerged just below the surface. An inkjet deposits photo reactive hardener and colorant while a UV lamp cures the mix. Another approach could be to put down a thin layer of resin on the bottom of the aquarium then use the inkjet to add color and photo reactant. Each layer would be a full color photograph film. If the film is neutrally bouyant the resin becomes support. It's a fully liquid version of the powder bed with color and glue without the fuzzy texture. I had thought to add a different inkjet color to make a fiber or solid or flexible set of dots. Epson heads are better for pushing out the doping liquids.
The production value here is top tier. Keep it up. Certainly a fun concept
The best thing is that the patent for this kind of 3D printing has expired so that means companies can make and sell these printers
Try fumed silica instead of bubble glass. It's a thickening agent that also happens to lower viscosity somewhat when being put under shear stress, ie when it is stirred, pumped, or extruded. It also won't float and might improve part strength once cured
I have made a paste extruder and also considered using a resin base paste for photo curing. I would use regular UV LEDs and make a “hat” to cast a shadow to the tip of the nozzle. If you solved the light scattering issue I would say that the laser light is too concentrated for this application. Instead of a “hat “ you could use a more obtuse nozzle tip and raise the light source (to cast shadows).
LOL "how can we do resin printing, but worse?"
I'm genuinely shocked you got it printing as well as you did
Looks like a concrete printer. Love the barnacle benchy. Thanks for the time at ERRF
Maybe you should use hard tubing everywhere EXCEPT the peristaltic pump. By using the soft silicone tubing to feed the extruder, I would imagine there is quite a bit of expansion/hysteresis that could be messing up your flow rate as the pressure on the nozzle changes.
this might be way off topic but where did you get the whiteboard mounting brackets from? anyway to share?
proposed amendments:
1.instead of a pump, use a container with a plunger (such as a syringe) pushed by a screw - better control of the flow and dosing of the medium
2.stiff tubes - walls resistant to pressure (again better flow control)
3.pipes splitter just before the print head (easy change of printing material)
4. (optional) degassing of the material in the vacuum chamber before filling the feeders.
I've seen this idea floating around for some nice. Nice to see a diy approach.
another super cool thing (i think already mentioned in the video?) would be to print polymer solutions: PVB in alcohol, styrene filaments in acetone, or even chitosan would be awesome
Exactly!
One thing you could possibly do is use chopped fiberglass, carbon fiber, or kevlar fibers to make the paste. It will probably come with a number of clogging issues, but it could also definitely help with strength.
This is awesome! Can't wait to see it improved! Keep working on it!
This is a really interesting and intriguing series. It really makes the imagination run wild. I wonder if the peristaltic pump might work better if the resin is stored in a reservoir above the pump to allow for gravity feed instead of forcing the pump to draw the resin upwards against gravity. You could even incorporate a mixing mechanism to keep the resin from separating before it is pumped.
Small scale MASSIVit printer. 3d print nerd had it on his channel.
Could you use heat make the resin more liquid? So then you can tie flow rate to temp for any resin.
Overhang free prints too…
An interesting subject would be to heat up the resin to print extremely high viscous yet high performance resins! This would only work if the additive is not the weakest point though.
To me it looks like there is some shadow under the nozzle where it isnt curing instantly, perhaps getting the lasers closer to it will cure faster and prevent it from sticking to the nozzle.
You've seen correct! In the previous attempt I showed my monkey brain solution to cast a shadow there. I have an idea for a different, yet quite similar approach ;)
@@properprinting I wonder if sending the laser through a fiber optic cable might help?
I feel like uv lights hardening part needs work. Since it hardens on the nozzle. Shield of sorts? Lenses to focus light beam? Timer it on/off for layers? Having them on the side shining (blowing) across the printbed like the superfast vorons,vzbot, and nitrams printer?
You're spot on regarding one of the ideas for improvement I have in mind. I'm going to see if I can make my own lenses to make this work!
Try adding a shade around the tip of the nozzle. That could help reduce the clogging
There already is one, but it's the monkey brain solution I tried in our previous attempt. I have an interesting idea to improve this! ;)
I don't know if this is premature optimization, but i would try using stiffer tube before and after the pump so you can prevent ballooning of the tube.
maybe attach led in ring around nozzle and with soft control witch diod will light? you will have more controll on curing. You could code that diod that passed path of nozzle only fire. so there will be less "uv light leakage"
A nozzle made from Delrin or PTFE might get less resin stuck to it, or maybe spraying the brass nozzle with non-stick (like the stuff used on pans) would be enough?
I'm going to make a custom nozzle which has a parallel tip to make the angle 90 degrees. I hope that this will be better already. This will not be like a syringe needle though since that is too flexible.
Would like to see you revise this ditching the parametric pump I think the problem is the surges a syringe type delivery system should be more consistent
0.3 mm after having deposited the resin, it must polymerize and be polymerized no later than 0.6 mm, the uvc intensity and the effectiveness of the catalyst must synergistically work within those distances
I keep a jar of glass microballoons on my desk at work for the sole reason that if you shake it, air gets trapped between them, and it behaves like a fluid for a few seconds until the air works its way out. It's fun to play with
I can imagine, this stuff is so weird! Your comment reminds me a bit of those snow globes.
Still impressive... and has POTENTIAL for future research and technology. I have absolutely no doubt this could be a step in the direction to something better than both FDM and resin printing. (and it could lead to much stronger resin prints that can have much more strength than FDM or any plastic).
I feel like if you made the extruder tip larger, domed, and wrapped it in FEP film and put the light at a lower angle it'd help a lot with the resin sticking to the tip. Just a thought.
I think if you use pneumatic tubing for the resin except for the pump section, you can get rid of most hydraulic flex in your tube to fight oozing
wow such amazing research and journey. I love your scientific trial and error approach, as well as your controlled chaos creative design thinking!
I'm sure you have but have you seen Massivit? Its a gel resin 3d printer for large part printing. I wonder if they would be willing to give you some pointers on resin or design. One thing I noticed from watching their printers is that it looks like it has a UV shield around the nozzle and the UV lights are pointing downwards not right at the nozzle.
Yes I did. I got this idea just before I saw Joel's video. The lasers already cast a shadow where the nozzle is and I have an idea how we could improve on that ;)
Two minutes into the video I hit the like button. Love the storytelling, and the project is very interesting
I wonder how precise it would be if you attached a hair-thin flexible piece of titanium within the extruder somehow that extended slightly, and then slightly lowered the uv lights… probably need more focused light and a way to block them from upward exposure.
Your editing and production is on a nother level my guy! Also thanks for trying this out so I wont have to:)
Very cool. Your resin reminded me of those pottery clay printers. I think they use a worm-drive pump and syringe pump. Would help with the flow. Also a shroud around the nozzle to block UV.
It looked so similar indeed! I want to use this technique to see if it can print the clay which would be awesome!
You could try an almost flat nozzle. This could block more uv light to arrive the tip.
This is what the 3D printing sphere needs, more weird experimental printers, just like there were in the beginning
Probably need to put pump closer on the extruder (may be even a small tank+pump on the extruder and additional pump to fill it). Flexing tubes make flow inconsistent.
what if you used a curing light on the bottom of the bed, like the resin printers? you could potentially cure the bottom later more easily
That's an interesting thought. I think that the risk of curing inside of the nozzle will be increased though. I still have to find the best possible print surface for this.
This material is very similar to the composition for tomatological fillings.
_"Vamos a la playa"_ and the usual right soundtrack ... You guys nailed another one! - YES I *enjoyed* this journey with you two: *cured* 😎
Maybe instead of using light curing resin, you could print a different resin into a container that fills with a curing agent to cure each layer as it prints. Similar to a defunct Kickstarter I nearly backed called the peachy printer.
That would be an interesting approach. A second pump could do this. What I like about the curing is that it goes from liquid to solid within just seconds which makes bridging possible. Especially when using fibers eventually!
Try using ABS filament with a misting resin/acetone mix spray with curing lasers. You should get ABS with stronger layer adhesion and smoother layers.... If I had the time and money I'd try building this myself......
I’ve been thinking that 2 part resin mixing ‘hot ends’ could be super useful. Didn’t even think about this