"If you can smell it, your doing it wrong" that sounds like my kitchen sink philosophy. But for real, I like my FDM 3d printer because I don't have a extra room, not even a kitchen, just a niche, so anything that could smell dangerous (or not) is out (I just print with PLA, tried Petg, going to try nylon when I can). If I had the money for a extra Room/Garage/Container - Lab/Workshop I would be doing so much more dangerous and fun stuff.
There are low-odeur resins that do not smell at all when they're inside the printer, especially with the new printers that usually include filters. The cleaning solutions you need to use to clean your prints are usually pretty stinky though, as are any of the high strength or flexibility resins that they talk about in the video.
Yep, I only have my bedroom to work in and I only use FDM it'd be too dangerous to sleep in a room with resin vapors. For my FDM I even attached a duct to the printer (its fully enclosed) with fans to vent the fumes out through the window (looks a bit janky but it totally works).
@@JackOfGears it's not about the if it's stinks or not, it is about the long time exposure, And something that stinks less but is as unhealthy or dangerouse short or long term, scares me alot more. I still work with solvents, but only short periods where i can leave them by the Window. I learned my lesson while leting oil paints dry and other stupid projects where I couldn't vent the dust or fumes. I'm not guaranteeing that I'm not going to be stupid in the future (e.g. drink solvent when storred in the kitchen, spill epoxy on my bed ) but I wanted to make a responsible comment.
@@hasserecht3678 from the printers I've looked at if have to make an enclosure for it whick makes it a bit more complicated. But it is possible for sure. Now that I think about it, an even better thing would be to make an enclosed space for both printers!
"If resin is your _destiny_ , your _pick_ should be _tenacious_ ." Was that really a Tenacious D and the Pick of Destiny reference you just wormed in there? Jeez, haven't seen or even thought about that movie in ages. XD
We always try and compare resin printers to FDM ones but they are very different tools with very different uses. I love printing big chunky puzzles for my friends, and custom dice towers, so I'll use my Ender 3, for printing minis or dungeon scatter or even dice I'll use my Mars. It's all about knowing the limits of your machine and knowing what each machine excels at.
On the topic of post-print procedure, I would absolutely recommend removing the supports before curing them, often you can just pull them all off at once with practically no scaring.
I got a phrozen sonic mini half a year ago. Levelled once, never had to do anything again. The rest was just adjusting exposure time per layer, etc. It's really easy to setup.
As a resin printer owner: It's amazing. Absolutely. Just make sure you have some space to clean your stuff and get a good workflow. Protect your hands, lungs and eyes, then you're good.
well thats why i only use fdm, as i only have my bedroom available and dont have that much time to waste doing all the cleanup and curing, not to speak of the space, and as i spend most of my day in that room it wouldnt be great either having resin and toxic fumes around.
Some or most of the resin is toxic and can easily cause chemical burns. It’s hard not to make a huge mess when ur changing vats. The ROI isn’t there with resin printing for most users
I personally have both FDM and SLA and I have to say I use FDM more often. Don't get me wrong, SLA is absolutely awesome. But it is messy and more manual work so I oftentimes can't motivate myself to put the time into SLA. When printing FDM I literally upload my print, let it do it's thing and get back to a print. A typical SLA print takes me around half an hour to an hour of work.
Wow Billie seems so heartful, great collab! The Meet a Maker series looks fun too. One additional cool thing about resin printers is that they mostly scale in printing time just by layer count, not layer size, as the whole layer is cured at the same time. That means you can print as many models as you can fit on the bed in the same time it would take for the tallest one alone.
You could even build a color mixing system with a couple of pumps and an arduino. Mixes the resin and the colors and then releases the exact amount of resin into the printer. Could also top off the tank while printing. Oh the possibilities.
@@BillieRuben just subscribed to your channel and watched the feather video, very cool. Next time you make something of a non-polymer nature, check out my cooking channel 😊
@@ZackFreedman Reddit user WiseWolfofYoitsu actually burned his entire thigh into a blistering mess 1.5 years ago after apparently sensitizing and spilling it on himself.
This is one of the best informative and motivative videos I've seen about resin printing. I bought a Photon S a while back in the rush because of sale and they interested me but right now it's just standing around collecting dust. Now I really need to try things.
NOOOOO. Do not throw away uncured resin. Leave it either in the sun or in your curing station for a bit first. This prevents it entering a water source. Also get a curing station for easier and more consistent uv exposure. If you finish a print at the end of the day or the beginning you want the post cure to be the same so that your customers know what they are getting. Consistency over cheap... To get a nice shiny surface take the print from the printer and cure it a little. Then clean off the excess resin and cure it the rest of the way. This has made my transparent resin models much less opaque. This is due to microscopic cracks and issues that we just can’t see. The resin fills the void when you pull it out but if you clean off the excess then those issues make the print surface not as clean. Curing some resin before cleaning will let some seal that crack and viola clean prints. Also when you hollow a print you run the risk of creating a vacuum. You need a way for the print to release that vacuum lest it over power the build plates hold. She is so bad at explaining this...depending on the model it’s actually cleaner to pull off the supports before the post cure.
yes, zacks delivery is littered with references and hes so smooth about it that you may not notice some of them, but they are there and the nerds out there love them. i know i do
Just finished my hand wired numpad after I watched your last video. Guess I have to get a Resin printer now. I tied to find sa-Keycaps but they are really expensive and basikally impossible to find wich german legends. Really nice video, I did not realiesed resin-printers became so cheap.
I couldn't agree with her more. Resin printing is more messy but SO much easier. There's a huge learning curve to FDM for sure. But I still always use FDM because it's less messy.
She just put a Lavlier mic on her presumably broken or bad Headset mic. That's great. Used cheap Studio headphones and Lav mic for years now, easier to swap a part and i bet better sound quality per buck.
Honestly.. What I seriously want to see if someone come up with a resin that includes photo-reactive color in them. So, you could not just use UV to cure it, but also "set the color" as well. That would be a game changer.
I started on resin, then bought an FDM printer. I couldn't believe how much more complicated and jenky the whole process was. Releveling, everything else.
When the big at home printers came out in 2009 I dished in a few Ks to get one. The details were astonishing with resolution down to 20 microns. That is until I started to get muscle twitches and in less than a year the side of my face got paralyzed. Whatever drops that get on your skin get absorbed and this can cause a myriad of medical issues over time usually starting with allergies that develop into nerve damage. It got advertised to me as if it's something I can keep in my room when it's really not. Please, if you get one of these printers, have the utmost safety in mind. Do not breathe and touch resin. 🧪 Chemicals in it can be absolutely TOXIC ☠️. If possible, use it with a ventilator away from regular living quarters. I strongly recommend safety glasses or face mask and a lab coat with nitrile gloves. Though I have stopped myself from buying resins for years now, these days they make more organic resins with low VOC which is less poisonous so you can consider that option too. Have fun and importantly, be safe!
@@ZackFreedman I was using photopolymer FSL3D resin as my main one in the beginning, then I think down the road I used monoprice, Maker Juice, and Monocure when they were just starting with their production formulations. The biggest used were FSL3D and Monocure. I can't remember the other resins I used too. They varied from plastic containers to aluminum ones and some came with a big orange and black X stating health warnings somewhere. The reason for FSL3D is that they had warned us that using other resins would damage the VATs and void the warranty for their machines which costed me a couple thousands (they were trying to tie us to their resins only)but then their resins and lasers started failing which again costed several hundreds and a trip to Vegas for replacements since they wouldn't honor any replacements of faulty equipment. Anyway, the new laser worked amazing and even took on other brands easily as our group kept experimenting with off brand resins. I just don't remember what brands the others were so I do apologise. Overall I tried around 3 or so other brands and a small sample of firecast resin. I think the firecast was from Monoprice or a american company. It was in a aluminum can which was new for resins. Allergies and lung/skin irritation are probably most common early symptoms and safety should increase when these are present. My symptoms started with allergies, but I ignored them since this was my passion at the time until I couldn't. I would say I would spend an average of 12-16 hours a day around the machine and resin equipment with maybe a alcohol wash or two. One of the people in the ol community got a strong allergic reaction to the resin and had to be extra careful. He reported his throat flemming, metallic taste, and stomach ache days(or maybe it was a few weeks) after accidentally wiping his mouth with a bit resin. The Resin is clear so he didn't notice till he tasted it which he also reported the horrible taste stayed for a long time. Apparently the body hates something in the resin which an accumulation of it over time causes it to funk with the immune system which leads to an over sensibility to a random attachment pretty quickly -usually nerve related aka; causes allergies. That's my memory of it- I forget what the actual process is. Fumes caused irritation to some but for me who practically lived it on a daily I think I got one of the worst post allergies. I didn't have any cough related allergies or irritation though. I do recall getting resin splatters here and there usually from cleaning big prints and actually also a metallic taste too at some point but that went away. However the tiny random muscle twitches later became regional muscle spasms as I kept going until the nerve damage extended into paralysis and other things. I ignored the "small" symptoms while working with resins but in reality they should have been red flags. The resin stuff by no joke is dangerous and should be handled with utmost care. I always tell people to be careful around it because it can change your health permanently. I don't wish what I got on anybody. I wore gloves and sometimes a mask but I think that was careless. Splatter got on my arms and very likely on my regular clothes now that I think about it. Gloves would occasionally puncture(large 7-9" prints stuck stubbornly to the buildplate). Because the printer was nicely sized, it also needed alot more resin in the vat. I do apologise for writing long! I wish these things were safer. Even against my family's wishes I would love to pick up resin printing again if there was some magical safe resin available.
Ye but what about the "environment friendly" residue on gloves and wipes? And where does the contaminated IPA end up? This is hazardous waste right? Something in my head tells me that the glittery rings I print with resin are not worth the damage that whole thing does to the environment.
Let the alcohol evaporate outside and bring the residue to a waste recycling facility, they know what to do with it. The evaporating step is because you pay by weight and there is no harm in evaporating alcohol.
As a plumber, I had to apply solvents that give off the same fumes, by hand, in enclosed spaces, sometimes hundreds of times in a single day... I really don't think you need to worry about those fumes, considering you can just sit the printer in a room with an open window.. You don't need to sit there with your face sitting over the resin all day... So yeah, when you consider how easy it is to just place a fan next to the printer, or, heaven forbid, use a thirteen dollar fume hood, I'd say anyone complaining about the dangers of those fumes needs to give a HEFTY tip to their plumber, the next time they come around...
For cleanup tools, I like to use a toddler "booger blaster" nose suction thingy, to clean underwater/alcohol with little jets of liquid great to get blasts of cleaning in where a brush wont fit. Also, dont use anything to scrape a failure off of the FEP film, just use the back of your (clean gloved) hand to gently deform the film where the goober is stuck, it will just slowly peel off and float free in the vat and then can be poured out or scooped out with the spatula.
This was awesome! Answered a lot of my resin printer questions. Planning on buying a midsize resin printer in a couple of months - mainly to print digital sculptures, cosplay armor parts..etc :) Billie rocks! Zack, thanks for asking the key questions
Maybe the tech has improved lately but man sla has been little more than frustration for me. 2 printers and a ton of resin, lots and lots of headache...
sometimes I have the feeling, that Zack can feel what projects I am on xD Last week I somewhat finished my redox handwire keyboard project (rgb setup is still wip) :D And TODAY I got my new resin 3d printer :) This can't be a coincidence anymore xD
If you have bad luck (lemon machines and bad resin) or not quite ideal conditions, it can actually be incredibly hard. There are less settings to modify, but there are loads of other factors that can go wrong with everything else. Easily stinks the whole building out too if you don't have an extractor to hook it up to. That said if you can get it to work it's great. I wouldn't suggest the Anycubic Photon S or Anycubic resin. I've had months of frustration and various issues with both their resin and machine, and their support just makes you jump through loops and ignores requests for returns or replacements. Also as a counterpoint for resin / FDM as your first printer, FDM is a lot cleaner, potentially less smelly, takes up less space, and the filament is generally cheaper and stronger. Engineering resins that are decently strong are extremely expensive to achieve a strength that's comparable to a far cheaper filament. FDM's probably better if you plan on doing practical / hardwearing items. Not to say that resin doesn't have its place in that area, the right resins are pretty strong, and if you don't have issues with strong FEP adhesion (causing warping) they're dimensionally quite accurate. Just trying to give another point of view that it's not always as simple as a lot of people make out. Hopefully doesn't put anyone off :) Nice video.
My first sliced print took out my fep and the resin nearly took out my lcd. It can happen more frequently then you think, especially if your green and didnt realize you should check to see if anything's stuck to the fep before printing a second time.
It's slightly more expensive (£36 per kg compared to £7 per kg for bottom of the line stuff), the machines generally are more expensive unless you go with the Photon, parts like the FEP film and the screen are consumable parts that eventually need replacing, the cleanup is messier especially if a print fails, and the chemicals involved are dangerous and no resin printer I've come across comes with a suitable respirator, also you're not supposed to wash uncured resin down the drain because it's a public health hazard. Also be prepared to go through a pair of gloves for every print you do, and if you reuse gloves then you'll end up with a sticky work area. They're totally worth it, but you should definitely be aware of the downsides. Also, don't print in your bedroom.
One of the reasons Ive been hesitant to pick up an SLA is becasue I have some respiratory issues already and I have a beard so a cheap respirator is out of the question. One question I have though is how long do the vapors stay in a room. Cause I keep my FDM in my bedroom but I don't know what kind of ventilated place I would put a SLA printer
See The Thought Emporium on TH-cam, the creator there has a video called “a space suit for Earth” where he shows how to make a proper full face helmet that eliminates the risk of breathing foreign material in.
I thought FDM was shown to release volatile-organic compounds as well? Just a quick google search revealed this study from the EPA, not sure how reputable it is but it's something to consider. Building a hermetically sealed box with a vent is also an option for your printers. cfpub.epa.gov/si/si_public_record_report.cfm?dirEntryId=344026&Lab=NERL&subject=Health%20Research&showCriteria=0&searchAll=Asthma%20or%20Asthmatic&sortBy=revisionDate
It's my new year resolution, end the year with a resin printer for the second printer in the house. Nice discover of a new maker from the other side of the earth :D
It's so funny that you guys are talking to each other but at the same time it doesn't look like it because you are so serious but on the other hand she is so happy and laughing the whole time hahaha
Ooo, this actually gets me psyched for resin printing. I didn't want to mess with resin because of the fumes but discovered there is water washable with low odor.
My intro to the world of 3D printing was the Formlabs Form 2 at work. We also have a MakerBot replicator but.... It's a MakerBot replicator. So my personal printer is a photon resin printer, and I've since upgraded our work printer to a Form 3 and also got a photon for work to screw around with development resin. I always feel like the black sheep of the 3D printing world because I pretty much only do resin. But resin is bomb. And Siraya resins are great.
I recently ordered my first 3D printer. I really, really wanted a resin printer, but the fumes issue was a dealbreaker for me. I don't have an isolated space where fumes aren't going to matter. I'd end up wearing a respirator all day long because the printer is in the same room with me.
So my dad primarily got us a 3d printer so he could prototype parts to make his life a little easier, making little phone mounts and trays to hold soap cups so we dont get laundry soap all over the ground, I wanted one for primarily artistic reasons like making dnd stuff and making little crystal things. I was unaware of resin printers and i would have totally convinced him to get a resin printer if i knew about this stuff a year ago.
4:15 - this is actually incorrect. I print almost everything without infill. The issue typically is more that the *slicer* is bad at handling certain designs without infill, but I suspect that over time that will improve. (Currently slicers have a bad habit of printing things "on air", hence why infill is needed. I'm sure this could be remedied with smarter pathing, however)
I like adaptive infill, which allows to print at like 0-10% infill and gradually fill it only a few layers before the top. making arches under the top instead of that might work but it may be worse. the main problem is that slicers are slicers, and work in 2.5D, not true 3d. vase mode works really well for parts without jumps.
there is something i wonder, with conventional 3d printers, you could re-melt the plastic to recycle it into a new piece, but is it possible to recycle resin?
To my knowledge; No, or at least not exactly. Resin reacts with the activator (in this case UV), which chemically cures the resin and hardens it. That said; I have heard of people reheating/melting used resin, but seems the results are a lil iffy.
Just recently got an Orange 30 and I frickin' love it! Do a video on it! Its not 2K or 4K, its QHD and it's an underrated beast in the resin printing community.
I've seen a paper somewhere that filament printers actually release more volatile organic compounds than resin printers. Take this with a grain of salt but it's certain that filament printers also produce them. People tend to ignore that.
I would say resin is potentially more dangerous since just by the act of opening a bottle it releases VOC fumes and getting it on your skin can cause allergies or health problems too. With filaments you can still touch it but the worry is VOC release when heated. PLA is considered much safer than ABS with 10x less VOCs but it will still release fumes which stack over time and if you're running a farm. Ventilators with filters are key in these cases or if you're working with filaments like ABS boxing in the machine and using a venting tube before opening is the safest. On the plus side it stabilizes temperatures.
another thing you can print with resin that i didn't see mentioned: hobbiest injection molds. Ive seen someone take a resin printer, and print a doubleshot mold for injection molded keycaps.
Ok I've watched every video ever since you popped up in my recommended.... Yesterday.... Gotta say I'm inspired to finish my projects like my mame (30% done) The 3x3x3 foot print (the Goliath 100% done but needs a rebuild) and the lawn bot (staled before I even had all the parts)
for mixing, i think fff is in highend not weaker... a multinozzle you can make any blend, change filament in print to print in many various material/colour... classical pva for support and you can make super complex geometry, tell me how you will get such abillity with resin printer?! But yes its less you can fail (ofc this and the resolution of it, i need one :D)
People at my maker space break the fdm printers no more than a week after I fixed them. Looking to add tazers to the controls. Edit. I am here again two years later cuz this is one of my favorite videos ever.
Anyone saying SLA is bad has never used it. I press a button out of the box basically, boom. perfect dimensions, perfect, with 0 support. only negative is it isnt really great for hobby engineering just because of the UV non resistance.
@@Jehty_ fire hazard , multi material , stability , all metal extruder , auto levelling , higher temps for nozzle and print bed , silent mode and driver's , filament runout sensor , sensor for sensing broken sensors , adapted psu , better firmware , blackout recovery and these are just the ones I think of
@@prisedeterre1356 and none of that really makes a difference. (fire hazard shouldn't be on your list, because that's something every Anet A8 owner already should have fixed) Besides if you think that you need any of that you can just modify your A8.
Resin printers are cool because of the detail you can get, but they are just so impossible to justify. So much extra is needed to get a working print. You cant reasonably have it in your room like you can with an FDM. I have my Ender 3 about a foot away from me on my desk and I can just turn it on print while I'm working. Only extra bits are some files and pliers sitting in a draw to fettle finished prints, if needed. With resin, I'd need all the extra safety gear, somewhere safe to put it, a cleaning station and a curing box (sun doesn't exist in the UK). All for just some slightly more detailed prints, which I could probably get quite close to anyway with my 0.2 nozzle. Totally not worth it in my opinion. Most of what I print is functional, or at least (mostly functional) and FDM is just better for that. An ideal upgrade for someone like me would be an FDM that could print Nylon, be that an enclosure for my Ender 3 or a more capable printer!
I worked several years with formlabs printers, which I consider are high end resin printers. Nice device, but I still don't like it. Yes, the quality is better than FDM. But for prototyping the efford of cleaning isn't it worth imho.
FormLabs printers use lasers, which are kind of the worst of both worlds - they have the cleanup and safety requirements of resin, but the exponentially-scaling print time of FDM.
@@ZackFreedman yes, that's true. They say it is more precise than LCD or DLP. But I can't prove this. Because I changed my job I don't use 3D printers anymore. Maybe I'll get one in the future
I’ve been planning on buying my first printer recently, may try to convince my parents to get an elegoo Neptune 2 for fdm and anycubic photon for sla(my dad wanted a resin printer since 2018, and I want to make custom keyboards for stm32 Unix computers that I’m planning).
I can confirm that resin printing is safe even without any preclusions (that you should take anyways) because I was working next to a resin printer for like 3 years daily without ventilation, sometimes using gloves, and always sanding and cutting parts without using a mask and I am obviously still alive.
You definitely want something half decent for post curing. You should really get a rotating device , if you get a stationary nail curing device then you'll have hotspots on the final piece
I've been resin printing for 3 years now, and I can tell you it is EXTREMELY expensive. I just bought 6 bottles of resin for $250 and printed a gundam big enough to be printed on my neptune 3 with 2kg of filament. That's 6x the cost of FDM printing. A resin printer the size of a neptune 3 build plate cost $1,200 plus! The advantages of resin vs FDM are night and day, but you will pay out the ass for those advantages. Also, don't forget the cost to clean those resin prints. Isopropyl alcohol is not cheap. Every time I turn around I have to buy $60-100 worth.
I have a tour of my craft room on my channel! Those shelves are just IKEA Ivar. I'm also working on a video "how to organise your stuff from a maker with ADHD" because my room used to be so bad you had to wade through it
@@AshleyGittins 😊😊😊 Honestly I've set it up in such a way that it almost takes care of itself! That's why I thought I'd make a video. Cause it might help other folk. 😊
Billie's so excited about printing and explain stuff so easily this was a fast subscribe.
:D thank youu
"If you can smell it, your doing it wrong" that sounds like my kitchen sink philosophy.
But for real, I like my FDM 3d printer because I don't have a extra room, not even a kitchen, just a niche, so anything that could smell dangerous (or not) is out (I just print with PLA, tried Petg, going to try nylon when I can). If I had the money for a extra Room/Garage/Container - Lab/Workshop I would be doing so much more dangerous and fun stuff.
There are low-odeur resins that do not smell at all when they're inside the printer, especially with the new printers that usually include filters. The cleaning solutions you need to use to clean your prints are usually pretty stinky though, as are any of the high strength or flexibility resins that they talk about in the video.
Yep, I only have my bedroom to work in and I only use FDM it'd be too dangerous to sleep in a room with resin vapors. For my FDM I even attached a duct to the printer (its fully enclosed) with fans to vent the fumes out through the window (looks a bit janky but it totally works).
@@JackOfGears it's not about the if it's stinks or not, it is about the long time exposure, And something that stinks less but is as unhealthy or dangerouse short or long term, scares me alot more. I still work with solvents, but only short periods where i can leave them by the Window. I learned my lesson while leting oil paints dry and other stupid projects where I couldn't vent the dust or fumes. I'm not guaranteeing that I'm not going to be stupid in the future (e.g. drink solvent when storred in the kitchen, spill epoxy on my bed ) but I wanted to make a responsible comment.
@@nikolatotev Well you can so with Resin fumes.
@@hasserecht3678 from the printers I've looked at if have to make an enclosure for it whick makes it a bit more complicated. But it is possible for sure. Now that I think about it, an even better thing would be to make an enclosed space for both printers!
"If resin is your _destiny_ , your _pick_ should be _tenacious_ ."
Was that really a Tenacious D and the Pick of Destiny reference you just wormed in there? Jeez, haven't seen or even thought about that movie in ages. XD
He also made a Tenacious D reference in his diy keyboard video!
We always try and compare resin printers to FDM ones but they are very different tools with very different uses. I love printing big chunky puzzles for my friends, and custom dice towers, so I'll use my Ender 3, for printing minis or dungeon scatter or even dice I'll use my Mars. It's all about knowing the limits of your machine and knowing what each machine excels at.
On the topic of post-print procedure, I would absolutely recommend removing the supports before curing them, often you can just pull them all off at once with practically no scaring.
I got a phrozen sonic mini half a year ago.
Levelled once, never had to do anything again.
The rest was just adjusting exposure time per layer, etc. It's really easy to setup.
As a resin printer owner:
It's amazing. Absolutely. Just make sure you have some space to clean your stuff and get a good workflow.
Protect your hands, lungs and eyes, then you're good.
As someone who owns both. Fdm is way better. I have a curing booth and everything and it's not worth it.
well thats why i only use fdm, as i only have my bedroom available and dont have that much time to waste doing all the cleanup and curing, not to speak of the space, and as i spend most of my day in that room it wouldnt be great either having resin and toxic fumes around.
Some or most of the resin is toxic and can easily cause chemical burns. It’s hard not to make a huge mess when ur changing vats.
The ROI isn’t there with resin printing for most users
I personally have both FDM and SLA and I have to say I use FDM more often. Don't get me wrong, SLA is absolutely awesome. But it is messy and more manual work so I oftentimes can't motivate myself to put the time into SLA. When printing FDM I literally upload my print, let it do it's thing and get back to a print. A typical SLA print takes me around half an hour to an hour of work.
Don’t even get me started on resetting the printer with new resin and such. 🙄
@@topramen7431 Yeah, you really need patience and dedication with these.
Wow Billie seems so heartful, great collab! The Meet a Maker series looks fun too. One additional cool thing about resin printers is that they mostly scale in printing time just by layer count, not layer size, as the whole layer is cured at the same time. That means you can print as many models as you can fit on the bed in the same time it would take for the tallest one alone.
Heartful! I love it.
Totally agree that's another great benefit!
2:20 “if you plan well...”
...well there’s the problem 😋
I know. I am a fucking mess sometimes and I know that I would not plan well.
Hehe, only takes about a month to cure outside in the UK 😏
Seattle, too
Sitting in an English garden
Waiting for the sun
If the sun don't come you get a tan
From standing in the English rain
I didn't know you can mix colour's. Such a great idea to only have C M Y K clear and white - you are basically covered for all colours at that point
You could even build a color mixing system with a couple of pumps and an arduino. Mixes the resin and the colors and then releases the exact amount of resin into the printer. Could also top off the tank while printing. Oh the possibilities.
Zack, your enthusiasm for resin printing can be measured by your “hand talking” levels. Great video, awesome guest.
✨😊✨
GESTICULATE!
@@BillieRuben just subscribed to your channel and watched the feather video, very cool. Next time you make something of a non-polymer nature, check out my cooking channel 😊
wow this is insanely useful, I'm gonna try Resin printing soon, and this gave me all the 411 I need to get started.
People who use resin printers: resins not dangerous
Resin: melts protective gloves
The wrong type of protective gloves lol
Neoprene resists more chemicals than latex. Resin will not melt your skin, unless your skin is made of latex.
@@ZackFreedman It will stick and diffuse though. You should inform better with organic compounds and safety before giving suggestions Zack.
@@ZackFreedman Reddit user WiseWolfofYoitsu actually burned his entire thigh into a blistering mess 1.5 years ago after apparently sensitizing and spilling it on himself.
@@ZackFreedman This was a joke but thanks alot for replying i've nevr had a youtuber reply to my comment under his video
Yay! What a great way to mythbust resin printing! Thank you Billie!
Actually it is not, as he is quite misleading on the dangers of resin. See my comment if TH-cam doesn't do weird sorting and mixing :)
1:03 just casually flexing the CR-30 in the background
Not even I’m cool enough to have one of those
😅😅😅😅
This is one of the best informative and motivative videos I've seen about resin printing. I bought a Photon S a while back in the rush because of sale and they interested me but right now it's just standing around collecting dust. Now I really need to try things.
The different format of this video worked really well! Thanks as always 😊
Holy Sh🧨t I had no idea you could mix resins! 🤯😍
I guess you should only mix the same/similar resins. WIth totally different mixtures you might get unpredictable results, but i don't know
NOOOOO. Do not throw away uncured resin. Leave it either in the sun or in your curing station for a bit first. This prevents it entering a water source. Also get a curing station for easier and more consistent uv exposure. If you finish a print at the end of the day or the beginning you want the post cure to be the same so that your customers know what they are getting. Consistency over cheap...
To get a nice shiny surface take the print from the printer and cure it a little. Then clean off the excess resin and cure it the rest of the way. This has made my transparent resin models much less opaque. This is due to microscopic cracks and issues that we just can’t see. The resin fills the void when you pull it out but if you clean off the excess then those issues make the print surface not as clean. Curing some resin before cleaning will let some seal that crack and viola clean prints.
Also when you hollow a print you run the risk of creating a vacuum. You need a way for the print to release that vacuum lest it over power the build plates hold. She is so bad at explaining this...depending on the model it’s actually cleaner to pull off the supports before the post cure.
"if resin is your destiny your pick should be tenacious"
was that a tenacious d reference?
yes, zacks delivery is littered with references and hes so smooth about it that you may not notice some of them, but they are there and the nerds out there love them. i know i do
8:51 Glitter IS the herpes of craft. Absolutely.
Amazing. I was just looking for a video on resin printing
literally found your channel and watched your among us video 2 minutes ago.. great timing!
enjoy your stay this is such a nice channel
@@berni_schmorg already binged half the videos lol
Just finished my hand wired numpad after I watched your last video. Guess I have to get a Resin printer now. I tied to find sa-Keycaps but they are really expensive and basikally impossible to find wich german legends. Really nice video, I did not realiesed resin-printers became so cheap.
Yasss join the keycap crew!! ❤️❤️
I like how his previous projects are in the background like that animated keeb which made me want to build my own keeb
I couldn't agree with her more. Resin printing is more messy but SO much easier. There's a huge learning curve to FDM for sure. But I still always use FDM because it's less messy.
As someone who started with resin printing and is scared of tuning an fdm printer I see this as an absolute win
She just put a Lavlier mic on her presumably broken or bad Headset mic. That's great.
Used cheap Studio headphones and Lav mic for years now, easier to swap a part and i bet better sound quality per buck.
Honestly.. What I seriously want to see if someone come up with a resin that includes photo-reactive color in them. So, you could not just use UV to cure it, but also "set the color" as well. That would be a game changer.
So excited to see Billie on this with you, Zack - these are so fun!
I started on resin, then bought an FDM printer. I couldn't believe how much more complicated and jenky the whole process was. Releveling, everything else.
Took me 2 years to notice Zack forgot to screw down the vat at 7:22
When the big at home printers came out in 2009 I dished in a few Ks to get one. The details were astonishing with resolution down to 20 microns. That is until I started to get muscle twitches and in less than a year the side of my face got paralyzed. Whatever drops that get on your skin get absorbed and this can cause a myriad of medical issues over time usually starting with allergies that develop into nerve damage. It got advertised to me as if it's something I can keep in my room when it's really not. Please, if you get one of these printers, have the utmost safety in mind. Do not breathe and touch resin. 🧪 Chemicals in it can be absolutely TOXIC ☠️. If possible, use it with a ventilator away from regular living quarters. I strongly recommend safety glasses or face mask and a lab coat with nitrile gloves. Though I have stopped myself from buying resins for years now, these days they make more organic resins with low VOC which is less poisonous so you can consider that option too. Have fun and importantly, be safe!
I’ve never heard of these symptoms before; all I’ve heard of is coughing and allergy attacks. What resin were you using?
@@ZackFreedman I was using photopolymer FSL3D resin as my main one in the beginning, then I think down the road I used monoprice, Maker Juice, and Monocure when they were just starting with their production formulations. The biggest used were FSL3D and Monocure. I can't remember the other resins I used too. They varied from plastic containers to aluminum ones and some came with a big orange and black X stating health warnings somewhere.
The reason for FSL3D is that they had warned us that using other resins would damage the VATs and void the warranty for their machines which costed me a couple thousands (they were trying to tie us to their resins only)but then their resins and lasers started failing which again costed several hundreds and a trip to Vegas for replacements since they wouldn't honor any replacements of faulty equipment. Anyway, the new laser worked amazing and even took on other brands easily as our group kept experimenting with off brand resins.
I just don't remember what brands the others were so I do apologise. Overall I tried around 3 or so other brands and a small sample of firecast resin. I think the firecast was from Monoprice or a american company. It was in a aluminum can which was new for resins.
Allergies and lung/skin irritation are probably most common early symptoms and safety should increase when these are present. My symptoms started with allergies, but I ignored them since this was my passion at the time until I couldn't.
I would say I would spend an average of 12-16 hours a day around the machine and resin equipment with maybe a alcohol wash or two.
One of the people in the ol community got a strong allergic reaction to the resin and had to be extra careful. He reported his throat flemming, metallic taste, and stomach ache days(or maybe it was a few weeks) after accidentally wiping his mouth with a bit resin. The Resin is clear so he didn't notice till he tasted it which he also reported the horrible taste stayed for a long time. Apparently the body hates something in the resin which an accumulation of it over time causes it to funk with the immune system which leads to an over sensibility to a random attachment pretty quickly -usually nerve related aka; causes allergies. That's my memory of it- I forget what the actual process is. Fumes caused irritation to some but for me who practically lived it on a daily I think I got one of the worst post allergies. I didn't have any cough related allergies or irritation though. I do recall getting resin splatters here and there usually from cleaning big prints and actually also a metallic taste too at some point but that went away. However the tiny random muscle twitches later became regional muscle spasms as I kept going until the nerve damage extended into paralysis and other things. I ignored the "small" symptoms while working with resins but in reality they should have been red flags.
The resin stuff by no joke is dangerous and should be handled with utmost care. I always tell people to be careful around it because it can change your health permanently. I don't wish what I got on anybody. I wore gloves and sometimes a mask but I think that was careless. Splatter got on my arms and very likely on my regular clothes now that I think about it. Gloves would occasionally puncture(large 7-9" prints stuck stubbornly to the buildplate). Because the printer was nicely sized, it also needed alot more resin in the vat.
I do apologise for writing long! I wish these things were safer. Even against my family's wishes I would love to pick up resin printing again if there was some magical safe resin available.
Starting off February strong with a new video!
Thought of getting an Ender 3 V2 ... but now I think I should probably get a resin printer. The enthusiasm of her is kinda contagious :D
This whole interview was super wholesome, lovely to see such positivity
Ye but what about the "environment friendly" residue on gloves and wipes? And where does the contaminated IPA end up? This is hazardous waste right? Something in my head tells me that the glittery rings I print with resin are not worth the damage that whole thing does to the environment.
Let the alcohol evaporate outside and bring the residue to a waste recycling facility, they know what to do with it. The evaporating step is because you pay by weight and there is no harm in evaporating alcohol.
What a delightful interview.
Hearing hard-won wisdom presented with such enthusiasm really makes me want to try it myself
As a plumber, I had to apply solvents that give off the same fumes, by hand, in enclosed spaces, sometimes hundreds of times in a single day...
I really don't think you need to worry about those fumes, considering you can just sit the printer in a room with an open window.. You don't need to sit there with your face sitting over the resin all day...
So yeah, when you consider how easy it is to just place a fan next to the printer, or, heaven forbid, use a thirteen dollar fume hood, I'd say anyone complaining about the dangers of those fumes needs to give a HEFTY tip to their plumber, the next time they come around...
For cleanup tools, I like to use a toddler "booger blaster" nose suction thingy, to clean underwater/alcohol with little jets of liquid great to get blasts of cleaning in where a brush wont fit.
Also, dont use anything to scrape a failure off of the FEP film, just use the back of your (clean gloved) hand to gently deform the film where the goober is stuck, it will just slowly peel off and float free in the vat and then can be poured out or scooped out with the spatula.
The color mixing was new to me!
This was awesome! Answered a lot of my resin printer questions. Planning on buying a midsize resin printer in a couple of months - mainly to print digital sculptures, cosplay armor parts..etc :) Billie rocks! Zack, thanks for asking the key questions
Maybe the tech has improved lately but man sla has been little more than frustration for me. 2 printers and a ton of resin, lots and lots of headache...
sometimes I have the feeling, that Zack can feel what projects I am on xD
Last week I somewhat finished my redox handwire keyboard project (rgb setup is still wip) :D
And TODAY I got my new resin 3d printer :)
This can't be a coincidence anymore xD
If you have bad luck (lemon machines and bad resin) or not quite ideal conditions, it can actually be incredibly hard. There are less settings to modify, but there are loads of other factors that can go wrong with everything else. Easily stinks the whole building out too if you don't have an extractor to hook it up to. That said if you can get it to work it's great. I wouldn't suggest the Anycubic Photon S or Anycubic resin. I've had months of frustration and various issues with both their resin and machine, and their support just makes you jump through loops and ignores requests for returns or replacements.
Also as a counterpoint for resin / FDM as your first printer, FDM is a lot cleaner, potentially less smelly, takes up less space, and the filament is generally cheaper and stronger. Engineering resins that are decently strong are extremely expensive to achieve a strength that's comparable to a far cheaper filament. FDM's probably better if you plan on doing practical / hardwearing items. Not to say that resin doesn't have its place in that area, the right resins are pretty strong, and if you don't have issues with strong FEP adhesion (causing warping) they're dimensionally quite accurate.
Just trying to give another point of view that it's not always as simple as a lot of people make out.
Hopefully doesn't put anyone off :) Nice video.
Lets promote the curing of all resin before chunking in the trash, including any cleanup materials like paper towels.
Absolutely. In the shot of my UV lamp, I’m exposing a pile of waste.
One of the best channels I’ve found recently keep up the great work!
I have been 3D printing castable resins and doing lost wax casting in silver. It's really not hard and I also use FDM prints 😅👍
My first sliced print took out my fep and the resin nearly took out my lcd. It can happen more frequently then you think, especially if your green and didnt realize you should check to see if anything's stuck to the fep before printing a second time.
9:17 does that spell out the "F" word? Naughty, naughty.
It's slightly more expensive (£36 per kg compared to £7 per kg for bottom of the line stuff), the machines generally are more expensive unless you go with the Photon, parts like the FEP film and the screen are consumable parts that eventually need replacing, the cleanup is messier especially if a print fails, and the chemicals involved are dangerous and no resin printer I've come across comes with a suitable respirator, also you're not supposed to wash uncured resin down the drain because it's a public health hazard. Also be prepared to go through a pair of gloves for every print you do, and if you reuse gloves then you'll end up with a sticky work area.
They're totally worth it, but you should definitely be aware of the downsides. Also, don't print in your bedroom.
One of the reasons Ive been hesitant to pick up an SLA is becasue I have some respiratory issues already and I have a beard so a cheap respirator is out of the question.
One question I have though is how long do the vapors stay in a room. Cause I keep my FDM in my bedroom but I don't know what kind of ventilated place I would put a SLA printer
you might be able to put it in a gas tight box and glue paint filters with silicone, adding a fan on the output.
See The Thought Emporium on TH-cam, the creator there has a video called “a space suit for Earth” where he shows how to make a proper full face helmet that eliminates the risk of breathing foreign material in.
I thought FDM was shown to release volatile-organic compounds as well? Just a quick google search revealed this study from the EPA, not sure how reputable it is but it's something to consider. Building a hermetically sealed box with a vent is also an option for your printers.
cfpub.epa.gov/si/si_public_record_report.cfm?dirEntryId=344026&Lab=NERL&subject=Health%20Research&showCriteria=0&searchAll=Asthma%20or%20Asthmatic&sortBy=revisionDate
It's my new year resolution, end the year with a resin printer for the second printer in the house.
Nice discover of a new maker from the other side of the earth :D
This video got me to get a Photon Mono 4K. No regrets. Thanks for the in-depth Q&A!
I just buy a anycubic S, have a delta fdm to but now i think more to buy a biger resin printer than printing again on my delta.
It's so funny that you guys are talking to each other but at the same time it doesn't look like it because you are so serious but on the other hand she is so happy and laughing the whole time hahaha
Ooo, this actually gets me psyched for resin printing. I didn't want to mess with resin because of the fumes but discovered there is water washable with low odor.
My intro to the world of 3D printing was the Formlabs Form 2 at work. We also have a MakerBot replicator but.... It's a MakerBot replicator. So my personal printer is a photon resin printer, and I've since upgraded our work printer to a Form 3 and also got a photon for work to screw around with development resin.
I always feel like the black sheep of the 3D printing world because I pretty much only do resin. But resin is bomb. And Siraya resins are great.
I recently ordered my first 3D printer. I really, really wanted a resin printer, but the fumes issue was a dealbreaker for me. I don't have an isolated space where fumes aren't going to matter. I'd end up wearing a respirator all day long because the printer is in the same room with me.
So my dad primarily got us a 3d printer so he could prototype parts to make his life a little easier, making little phone mounts and trays to hold soap cups so we dont get laundry soap all over the ground, I wanted one for primarily artistic reasons like making dnd stuff and making little crystal things. I was unaware of resin printers and i would have totally convinced him to get a resin printer if i knew about this stuff a year ago.
Literally just decided to look into resin printing today. Love this channel.
4:15 - this is actually incorrect. I print almost everything without infill. The issue typically is more that the *slicer* is bad at handling certain designs without infill, but I suspect that over time that will improve. (Currently slicers have a bad habit of printing things "on air", hence why infill is needed. I'm sure this could be remedied with smarter pathing, however)
I like adaptive infill, which allows to print at like 0-10% infill and gradually fill it only a few layers before the top.
making arches under the top instead of that might work but it may be worse.
the main problem is that slicers are slicers, and work in 2.5D, not true 3d.
vase mode works really well for parts without jumps.
@@satibel Either way, my point is, infill is not as required as the video might make it seem
@@Restombre When was this added? I have never seen this before.
My first printer was a resin printer so I can be a massive nerd and print minis. I'm still learning but I love it
there is something i wonder, with conventional 3d printers, you could re-melt the plastic to recycle it into a new piece, but is it possible to recycle resin?
To my knowledge; No, or at least not exactly.
Resin reacts with the activator (in this case UV), which chemically cures the resin and hardens it. That said; I have heard of people reheating/melting used resin, but seems the results are a lil iffy.
Billie is just awesome person. Watching this video made me smile! Still i like to print with PLA :D
😊😊
Australian sun do be curing different tho
Probably 😅
Yea, I'm in Ireland and I don't think I've seen the sun in a month
@@MrFlyingSquirl At least your UV index doesn't hit extreme every day
"The ANTIFA (The Whole Thing)" XD That's hilarious.
Just recently got an Orange 30 and I frickin' love it! Do a video on it! Its not 2K or 4K, its QHD and it's an underrated beast in the resin printing community.
I've seen a paper somewhere that filament printers actually release more volatile organic compounds than resin printers.
Take this with a grain of salt but it's certain that filament printers also produce them. People tend to ignore that.
I would say resin is potentially more dangerous since just by the act of opening a bottle it releases VOC fumes and getting it on your skin can cause allergies or health problems too.
With filaments you can still touch it but the worry is VOC release when heated. PLA is considered much safer than ABS with 10x less VOCs but it will still release fumes which stack over time and if you're running a farm. Ventilators with filters are key in these cases or if you're working with filaments like ABS boxing in the machine and using a venting tube before opening is the safest. On the plus side it stabilizes temperatures.
Two cool people, makes one amazing video. My next printer will 100% be a resin
Actually just snagged a Photon last month. Been loving it despite the cleanup process. Having success in a 20-40 degree garage right now.
another thing you can print with resin that i didn't see mentioned: hobbiest injection molds. Ive seen someone take a resin printer, and print a doubleshot mold for injection molded keycaps.
What a lovely interview.... So much happiness in her words.... I think we all need sometimes a little bit glitter feelings ;)
Thank you Billie!
Thank you No no!
Aussie makers and creators represent! 😎
at that point i would just find it easier and safer to carve this stuff out of a block of hard resin.
Ok I've watched every video ever since you popped up in my recommended.... Yesterday.... Gotta say I'm inspired to finish my projects like my mame (30% done)
The 3x3x3 foot print (the Goliath 100% done but needs a rebuild) and the lawn bot (staled before I even had all the parts)
So enthusiastic. As I am already wanting to get a resin printer it is getting dangerous now 🤣
God that glitter is pretty.
I'm about to buy a printer, you got an affiliate link for the Siraya tech blue for us Aussies?
Ok, you've convinced me and not only because I'm too lazy to fix my CR10.
If you end up with sticky spots in your work area and can't easily wash it off you can neutralise them easily with a small UV torch.
for mixing, i think fff is in highend not weaker... a multinozzle you can make any blend, change filament in print to print in many various material/colour... classical pva for support and you can make super complex geometry, tell me how you will get such abillity with resin printer?! But yes its less you can fail (ofc this and the resolution of it, i need one :D)
Talk about perfect timing Anycubic have a sale on and I ordered a resin printer yesterday, it's like you read my mine
7:26 that resin vat 😱
People at my maker space break the fdm printers no more than a week after I fixed them. Looking to add tazers to the controls.
Edit. I am here again two years later cuz this is one of my favorite videos ever.
Anyone saying SLA is bad has never used it. I press a button out of the box basically, boom. perfect dimensions, perfect, with 0 support.
only negative is it isnt really great for hobby engineering just because of the UV non resistance.
Anybody else catch that it spells out "FUCK" at 9:15?
Hahaha nice catch
Nice vid. I always get useful information here. Thanks!
8:27 passing from a cheap chinese clone of an Anet A8 , to a prusa mk3s doesn't seem like just "a bigger print bed"
And what exactly is the difference?
Maybe a bit nicer print quality and a bit less trouble, but other than that?
@@Jehty_ fire hazard , multi material , stability , all metal extruder , auto levelling , higher temps for nozzle and print bed , silent mode and driver's , filament runout sensor , sensor for sensing broken sensors , adapted psu , better firmware , blackout recovery and these are just the ones I think of
@@prisedeterre1356 and none of that really makes a difference.
(fire hazard shouldn't be on your list, because that's something every Anet A8 owner already should have fixed)
Besides if you think that you need any of that you can just modify your A8.
@@Jehty_ yes , but at this point getting z better printer is just easier
Resin printers are cool because of the detail you can get, but they are just so impossible to justify. So much extra is needed to get a working print. You cant reasonably have it in your room like you can with an FDM. I have my Ender 3 about a foot away from me on my desk and I can just turn it on print while I'm working. Only extra bits are some files and pliers sitting in a draw to fettle finished prints, if needed. With resin, I'd need all the extra safety gear, somewhere safe to put it, a cleaning station and a curing box (sun doesn't exist in the UK). All for just some slightly more detailed prints, which I could probably get quite close to anyway with my 0.2 nozzle. Totally not worth it in my opinion.
Most of what I print is functional, or at least (mostly functional) and FDM is just better for that. An ideal upgrade for someone like me would be an FDM that could print Nylon, be that an enclosure for my Ender 3 or a more capable printer!
I worked several years with formlabs printers, which I consider are high end resin printers. Nice device, but I still don't like it. Yes, the quality is better than FDM. But for prototyping the efford of cleaning isn't it worth imho.
FormLabs printers use lasers, which are kind of the worst of both worlds - they have the cleanup and safety requirements of resin, but the exponentially-scaling print time of FDM.
@@ZackFreedman yes, that's true. They say it is more precise than LCD or DLP. But I can't prove this.
Because I changed my job I don't use 3D printers anymore. Maybe I'll get one in the future
I think the real question here is: could you print the glass part of your wearable computer with resin?
Love the vid!
I’ve been planning on buying my first printer recently, may try to convince my parents to get an elegoo Neptune 2 for fdm and anycubic photon for sla(my dad wanted a resin printer since 2018, and I want to make custom keyboards for stm32 Unix computers that I’m planning).
I can confirm that resin printing is safe even without any preclusions (that you should take anyways) because I was working next to a resin printer for like 3 years daily without ventilation, sometimes using gloves, and always sanding and cutting parts without using a mask and I am obviously still alive.
You can also smoke a pack a day for 3 years and still be alive. Doesn't make it safe. Just probably not lethal
@@portobellomushroom5764 Don't worry I know there is a reason I am no longer working next to it.
This is what I said last time! It has associated hazards but the risk is totally manageable.
You definitely want something half decent for post curing. You should really get a rotating device , if you get a stationary nail curing device then you'll have hotspots on the final piece
I've been resin printing for 3 years now, and I can tell you it is EXTREMELY expensive. I just bought 6 bottles of resin for $250 and printed a gundam big enough to be printed on my neptune 3 with 2kg of filament. That's 6x the cost of FDM printing. A resin printer the size of a neptune 3 build plate cost $1,200 plus! The advantages of resin vs FDM are night and day, but you will pay out the ass for those advantages. Also, don't forget the cost to clean those resin prints. Isopropyl alcohol is not cheap. Every time I turn around I have to buy $60-100 worth.
I need to build a shelving system like the one Billie has behind her.
Her craft room setup is awesome!
I have a tour of my craft room on my channel! Those shelves are just IKEA Ivar.
I'm also working on a video "how to organise your stuff from a maker with ADHD" because my room used to be so bad you had to wade through it
Now I have no excuse to not organize 😁
@@BillieRuben haha I was watching your craftroom tour and started thinking "Man, this is someone who has their ADHD under control..."
@@AshleyGittins 😊😊😊
Honestly I've set it up in such a way that it almost takes care of itself! That's why I thought I'd make a video. Cause it might help other folk. 😊
You’re so awesome man I smashed that like button three times! Love the content 😎