New Favorite Budget 3d Printer? Sovol SV06
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 พ.ค. 2024
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In today's video we dive into the Sovol SV06, a $300 3d printer that comes with quite a few things that are not common on printers in this price point. We will go through the printers specs, how it prints, some issues I ran into, and my final thoughts on this printer.
Find out more or purchase the Sovol SV06 here (AFF):
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Models used in this video:
Stress Test Spider:
www.printables.com/model/2991...
Collapsable Pirate Sword:
social.thangs.com/m/24232
Drippy Bucket:
www.printables.com/model/7311...
Cable Organizer:
www.printables.com/model/1607...
Flex Cable Ties:
www.printables.com/model/1247...
Push Drill:
www.printables.com/model/3131...
Rugged Box:
www.printables.com/model/2584...
Overengineered Vase:
www.printables.com/model/292833
Mini Pallet:
www.printables.com/model/1955...
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Time Stamps:
0:00 - Intro
1:07 - Obico
1:52 - Printer Specs
6:20 - Trouble In Paradise
8:15 - Solution
9:57 - Printing On The SV06
13:19 - Conclusion
16:06 - Outro
Music provided by Argofox:
NEREUS - Lotus
• NEREUS - Lotus [Argofo...
not gonna lie the grid pattern showing up on the storage box at 12:18 looks pretty cool
Have to agree; in the first second or two of seeing it I thought it was part of the print, mainly because it looked good on that.
Separate z drivers should be the standard, it's an extra 5 dollars and will forever fix any gantry misalignment issues
Actually, the gantry levelling worked perfectly on the 6 that I have... it's literally the exact same system that the Prusa Mk3 uses... so really isn't an issue. Not sure why his didn't work... perhaps the stepper motor current wasn't set correctly in his early firmware.
Totally agree. Would have saved me what was a massive pain in the ass originally.
I prefer dual Z drives to be linked together with a belt.
@@saltysteel3996 I would rather have them have their own drivers in case something ever happens but yeah at least that way you know they shouldn’t be able to come out of alignment.
Probably more than $5 when it's a custom designed board, and that money adds up when mass production is involved. For under $250 it's hard to nitpick
Thank you for this review, very informative. Really like the fact this isnt a one day review. Haven't been in the printing corner of YT and forgot what good content you have. Thanks again. Ordered one of these yesterday, feeling good about the choice.
I appreciate your advise on the uneven dual z axis. I experienced the same problem and resolved it with your solution. Thanks!
Usually when you want to logo a pei sheet you laser it on the metal underneath before laminating it. One of the advantages of a measurement grid on a sheet is to eyeball skew correctness. Another is to visually estimate actual linear speed.
I have G34 active on all of my printers now and it is a godsend, any level problems are easy to figure out with the gantry level excluded from the equation. I would have thought they would have included drivers for each of the Z leadscrews so this printer could have dual independent leadscrews and G34 active.
Thanks for a high quality video. Looks like a great printer for the money. Definitely one to watch.
The hand drill can also be used for making fire with a thin (5mm ish) hardwood dowel or straight stick and a peice of wood softer than the dowel, you will also require some kindling, cotton wool is good, drill a small hole 2mm in the flat peice of wood and then drill your dowel into the wood quickly, eventualy you will have a smoking pile of sawdust which you tip into your kindling and blow on it ubtil you get a flame to light your fire.
Printing the hand drill at 170% will make life easier.
Neat,would be a great item to print for an apocalypse.
Really good and thorough review, thank you.
wow nice review of a pretty good machine ! I'm totally impressed by the quality you get from polyterra filament ! Mine give me absolute garbage every prints, waht's are your print setting for this filament ?? thanks a lot keep going on with good work as well !
@ModBot do you think instead of the force being too weak on the auto-z level process, do you think it could be the top of the frame not being parallel to the bed? That would make the x gantry be straight but only relative to the stops on the top cross bar, not the bed.
love to see this running Marlin with input shaping enabled. Whisper is that it will give the P1P a real run for its money in speed and quality.
Maybe I'm in the minority, but I don't get why some many people complain about "dated" features on printers, like a matrix LCD screen with rotary knob.
Simplicity and stability are a feature in their own right, especially on devices which need to be reliable & repairable.
Looks like Sovol is making some of the best Prusa clones -- Even though being clones, they might come with a few quality control / calibration flaws.
Definitely in the minority but yep I also like older screens.
From your description of the problem, it seems that it could easily be due to a difference in length in the vertical frame members and could be easily remedied by bringing the lengths to match.
Hello and thank you for this interesting presentation of the new Sovol device! I have one question about this: What is your opinion on lubricate the bearings of the SV06 (were they lubricated at the factory, should we do it ourselves, did you lubricate them, etc.)? Thanks in advance!
This sounds like another good reasons to invest in some 123 blocks. Good for testing calipers, and leveling things.
Always calibrate your measuring tools with Campbells soup
@@lolzlarkin3059 Reject imperial and metric. Embrace soup units.
@@lolzlarkin3059 Souper simple fixes ARE the best.
No S O U P for all of you, leave the line!
did I miss the portion about the firmware, screen interface, usability of the menus etc? Im a prusa guy through and through, and one thing that keeps me coming back to them is how nice and fully featured the firmware is. Having pause to change colors work perfectly every time, very intuitive filament changing, preheating, etc, are all really important to a good user experience. Curious how this one is?
My v6 came today I'm running a test print when writing this I did not have the tram issue you had seems they fixed that issue since this video. I'll take measurements and work on a micro SD to a full Sd card adapter asap.
On the cr10s pro v2 (dual lead screws), I had to leave the z motors On. Loosened the couplers and let the motor settle before re-tightening them and then start leveling the x gantry. Heavier side set higher by about 1mm cause it sags.
thanks for the review! I will keep the soup can level check in mind when my printer arrives.
It's kind of amazing how much extra effort someone will go through to avoid having one more cheap stepper driver on their controller board! Automated X-axis tramming works very nicely for me with a very similar design printer. It was also weird to see that the linear rods I have on it are now high end :-D
They're operating on razor budgets so every penny counts.
the spider i wouldnt call it a stress test, but more like a benchmark.
good video.. thanks for your contents!
I like that rotating gear on the front- if that can be used to feed filament manually, it would be really handy. Also, it looks like the entire hot end comes off easily- that would make maintenance so much easier.
The spinner is magnetically attached to the stepper shaft so no it cannot be used to rotate the extruder manually
@@HotboiEngineering yeah it can. I have the printer and have used the wheel manually just fine. Don't need to though because there is a change filament option in the menu that does it for you
@@HotboiEngineering No, it's not magnetically attached... and it's actually quite easy to use it to load and unload the filament.
Yeah it’s physically attached the shaft of the motor. They designed it so a bit of the shaft sticks out the bottom which is what the testing portion bites on to.
It is that, and by the looks only that, which is a tip of the hat to reprap. Namely the Prusa Mendel, which had a large gear on the front of the extruder
in order to fix the Z sync issue, just design a better phisical limiter. This time make sure the guide rog goes through. The current system allows some flexing
That was a good 'proper' review. Not gushing about how great everything is and no avoidance or belittling of sharp corners. In fact it was so good I'm now tied between this and the Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro...
I was in the same position till I realised that speed on Neptune 3 pro is capped in it's firmware and Elegoo has not even released the firmware for Neptune 3 till now. So forget modifications, printing faster or running Klipper on 3 pro. 3 pro has filament sensor and light extra which are a cheap upgrades.
The issue with the layer cooling fan is that it is sucking hot air off the bed and blowing that across your part instead of the ambient cool air.
Nice video, Would like to see you do a review of the Elegoo Neptune 3 pro?
I see a book opportunity: Chicken Soup for the Sovol
After a close look I wonder why they just didn't go for the Prusa i3 clone look with their colors. No one would care because it's an open-source design. Not sure if they really improved anything. I'm good with a clone. The design works well and you get really good looking quality prints. I currently have an RRG i3 and love it!
can you do a video on how to use the cans to level the sv06? for example what did you have to change physically on the svo6 with the cans
i just recently got into printing and i would love a grid on my print bed. i use mostly use cura and often have a hard time telling where my print actually is gonna be. makes it hard when im trying to use some glue for certain prints. i have to use much more than i need since i dont know where its gonna go
is it worth buying this as first printer? this 1 vs the ender? want to update in the end to print cf nylon/ asa for printing for using it outside
I have been slowly working on my Ender 3 pro to get it to print in CF nylon and it's an expensive thing to start on, all-metal hotend, direct drive, glass bed, and so on. Can you tell me if the hype on this machine is true and it's out of the box ready to print with that type of filament? Clearly I'd have to get the hard steel/ruby nozzles for it.
Have you already done a review of the sv04? Looking into the IDEX world and this one seems interesting option. Thank you for all your videos!
I've leveled the X gantry on two home brew printers against the bottom frame and then leveled the bed with the bed adjustment screws against the nozzle, but when the bed has NO adjustment screws leveling the X gantry against the bed makes sense. Is the printer top frame parallel to the bed? Probably not! Now my Ender 3 has no way to level the X gantry as it has only one Z axis drive screw, but cantilever X axis style printers such as the Prusa mini, the old Printerbot Simple, and the Ender-2 are in the same boat. At least it is possible to level the bed to the X axis with the bed adjustment screws.
Thank you for the excellent review on this machine.Would have liked the plus, but I don't do anything really big and have not much space for another printer. Love that Drippy Bucket and pallet. The color change filament on the bucket and the color, and finish is amazing. Struggling learning to print Silky Rainbow mh build series, and it's been a few really challenging days to see anything good. Filament is not doing well on 20 mm letters on a doll stand I'm making for wife. It's close but printing very, very slow. Entering the Sponge Bob, "meanwhile three weeks later " zone
Reprap was a hardware concept not a printer model. I myself had a rep wrap i3 frame printer, what you're probably thinking of is the reprap Mendel or one of the other bazillion variants. The whole point of rap rap was to make a printer that could make more printers... It's antithetical to the very concept of a mass-produced printer. But it was still fundamental to the formation of the market
Greetings from greece !Love your reviews great job !!!
I am truly thinking to buy a sovol looks great and for the job that i want it should be great!!!
You should try to clipper it 😉.
Greetings! We may end up klippering it 😊. I have been pretty happy with it as is though.
There is a file set on thingiverse for the old prusia/anet a8 style printers that is nearly identical to the plastic parts for that printer (at least the left and right z axis assemblies. I had found it and printed it as an upgrade for my geeetech a8 almost 10 years ago.
Three issues for me are x homing grind fixed with TMC driver change to 68. Flow rate to high in Cura slices, needed reduced to 97% for the most part. Switched to Super Slicer and now no flow problems. Not sure how or why when using SS it changes flow tune settings to 95 when you load file? The biggest issue is getting a consistent Z offset, need about .2mm for good first layer. During bed leveling the probe flashes for one second the mesh read and if that is not close to .2 its a bad first layer. Can work around by add a larger negative value in z offset, but why? Also use gage block with flat head screw adjusted to gantry height when in auto home position with power on, one full step seems accurate enough. Also no explanations for display settings.
Love the soup can leveling. I have an ender 3 s1 plus that is giving me a headache. I will give this method a shot.
Did you have to change any of your profile settings for TPU? Lost In Tech mentioned an issue with jamming, and having to change his profile. However, he had a pre-release model to help troubleshoot any issues before release.
Great review! Thanks!!
Thanks Pi 👍. Glad I got the issue figured out. Was definitely a frustrating beginning. Lots of good things though especially for its price. 😊
I have some 3D printed z rod alignment for my Any cubic Mega S that I found on Thinkerverse that should work on this machine as well.
@9:45ish how about putting 2 bump stops at the top of both rods, and/or side to side. This way if one side is lower than the other it will hit on that side first. This might help it calibrate better and semi stop it from bumping. Can also be used as guids for how far off they are that you can see or use a feeler gauge on. The closer the tolerance in the bump stops the closer the accuracy.
Ordered mine a few days ago.
One of the common headaches with this type of design that use parallel rods is that any deviation between the rods will cause the plane to twist as it travels along the axis. They have to be perfectly parallel. If the plane twists, both manual leveling and ABL will be off.
or Z wobble compensation
Oh, no, my SV06 arrives tomorrow and I don't have any Campbell's soup.
Spitballing in the middle of your video.. regarding the level.. if its sensorless homing but both z are connected to the same driver then does it not stand to reason when one side reaches limit and shuts down would it not also kill the other z motor before it reached limits?
I just ordered one of these to replace my old cr-10, I also got the dryer as I live in the most humid place on earth. Its this something I will have to adjust or are they taking steps to cure the issue at the factory?
Any recommendations for a 5 driver board to enable proper dual Z? I’d love to see klipper on this!
I gotta ask…. I just ordered the SV05 and, there’s not much out there yet… It looks like, the screen is the same, the software is Merlin, but the board is the Creality 32 bit. That said, and keep in mind, this is my second printer, will I be able to update to Klipper and a touchscreen? I was thinking, yeah, like Creality went with. Anyway, I got the printer at an incredible price and I figured it would be my mid step as my next printer (2023?24?) will be a Voron 2.4. I’d love to see you do a review on the SV05! THANKS!
I purchased the SV06 Plus and have had same leveling issues. I've tried this trick and everything else I can possibly think of. The x-axis is perfectly level...The left side of the bed will always have to be too close in order for the right side of the bed to stick. The prints are great but this is frustrating 😒
Would it really cost that much more to have separated the z steppers for the mesh to work better?
Would love to see what the process would be like for putting klipper on this, this may end up being my first printer and I've got a spare Pi from before they became gold. Also interested in knowing if you have any idea how hard it would be to throw a Revo hot end on it?
I would like to see the Klipper install as well.
just add sonic pad not hard
They could add proximity sensors on each z axis too, which may fix the issue too
Soup can trick was pretty awesome, but you should consider some 123 blocks. They’re handy in more ways than you’d think
I print PETG on the clean side of the PEI sheet, on my S1 Pro. A thin spray of PrintaFix and no issues with warping and I save the textured side for PLA, TPU and some more. I swear, you should try PrintaFix, if you haven't already. At this point I printed with it on so many surfaces that I started to believe that if I'd spray it on a flat piece of excrement, it would print on that too... 🤣🤣🤣🤣
I was eating some Campbells Mushroom soup while watching this video. I lost it when the soup cans made their appearance. I have ordered a SV06 a couple of days ago, you're great review made me feel good about my choice.
I love you and owe you a beer lol.I touched/turned one of the Z axis screws with the printer off on my SV03 and I was afraid of running into that problem you had.But I have 2 identical cups to fix it !
You should just say it:
Independent Z drivers would have allowed a z-tilt probe operation, and add only $2 to cost.
It is very, very lazy of them to stock a 4-driver board with this otherwise nice printer.
Does it allow serial access to the TMC drivers? You know, to control current, stealthchop/spreadspectrum and such?
Ok install a smooth PEI sheet to the underside of that plate. I did that on my Ender 3 S1 Pro.
Would you recommend this as a fist printer for someone who wants to get into the hobby?
hi, i have the eryone thinker SE, and the heated bed has like a yellow plastic layer on top of it. The layer is scratched up a lil bit in the corners, would it have any negative effect on the printer?
What would be the chances of basically converting this into a MK3S? (Print out most of the Prusa parts and “mod” the printer with them? @ModBot
I researched printers for a good while and this ended up being my choice. It's not here yet(canada) but really looking forward to it getting here. Ordered up some 123 blocks for leveling as I'm sure this won't be the last printer I buy and having them will just make things easier. But the soup cans were awesome apples to oranges thinking! Well done.
I used to use CD jewel cases for this when I needed to do it.
@@howardjones543 what's a CD? (Sorry, I couldn't resist. I'm 46 so I know perfectly well! 🤣😂)
@calgarysparky do you know where in canada it ships from, ontario?
@@traileater it ships from richmond bc, mine will be here tomorrow!! Can't wait!
@@calgarysparky i was going to get the ender 3 s1, but this sv06 beats it in spec and price. Looks like it will be january 15 for me if I order now. kamloops bc
Planetary extrusion drives are and were on Stratasys in the late 90'S nothing new to 3d printing but new to cardboard box printers somewhat i suppose
all dual drive axis units like this should be zeroed like you showed before even plugging it in. I will say i am surprized that bed slingers are still about imagine 1-2 lbs part swinging around hundreds of mm tall, the machine alignment is questionable as the weight is stacked up and i suggest printing in the middle of the bed only for this reason great vids cheers!
I just got the MINGDA Magician X over this, did I make a big mistake? Could not wait till 2023 for European shipping tbh. Does anyone have any tips on the mingda I am a total newbie.
The grid would be a cool idea if it was a 2” x2” layout like the Prusa, I’m constantly looking from my slicer to my bed as a real world comparison when enlarging models 😅
you can filp over and use the other side with pet g and a bit of glue stick ive been doing so for years now
cant decide between this or the KP3S for my first 3D printer
I am impressed you took apart the gearbox!! 😅
Wanted to verify it haha. Claiming to make your own extruder setup is not something I see that often and from the outside it looked alot like a BMG.
This looks really good for the money
Wow, maybe I need to use the Campbells soup for my SV04. I have had so much bad luck getting the mainly right extruder to print with ending up with a spaghetti mess. The two pieces of G10 that came with the printer is kind of hard to get them lined up and straight. I have leveled this machine sooo many time and then to go back the next day and find it off again. I really want this printer to work, I want an IDEX machine. I just received and email from Bamboo Lab to complete my payment on the X1 Carbon and see it's in shipping, can't wait for this one but I want the SV04 to work. Wish someone real savvy near Riverside CA could help..
Is there a way to get a raspberry pi these days. I’d love to be running klipper or octoprint but they still seem to be impossible to find
please do a budget recommendation for large printing , sovol04??
great video. stayed interesting the whole 16min.
Do a video on how to install Klipper on it and what speed can we get from this.
Can you review Neptune 3 Pro? They seem to be on the same playing field and would like to see a comparison
i install a lot of dual z axis 0n printers i get in and rehab .then i sell or donate.them, that would do it if one is higher then the other. once again great video
Is it possible for you to post your profiles? I have problems to tune mine
Do you think it would be easy to upgrade this printer to hemera revo?
How would you compare it to ender V2 and ender S1 series?
How does the performance compare to the Prusa?
Love the review 👍👍
Can this design be found in a 300X300 machine, love the setup just needs to be a bit bigger. Thanks 👋 👍🏻
There is now an SV06 Plus with 300x300. If you are still looking.
Did you PID tune the printer before those tests or is it completely factory settings? Thanks for the videos BTW!
No tuning. I would hope they have it set correctly from the factory. Just leveling 😊
Is there a way to safely remove the paint grid on the bed?
Very interested in how this unit would print ASA
Is this printer locked in to a primary slicer let me know asap please that wasn't clear on the video
Prusa was a fork off the RepRap movement. Thats why prusa still uses rods. But they also likely can't use another brand in marketing.
Would you recommend this printer over others in the price range? I'm thinking of buying an additional printer and this seems like an upgrade from my cetus MK3 in almost every way. Does it beat creality machines?
If you're going to pay $300 for this POS - you might as well just go $400 and get the Artillery SWX2. It has a 310x310 build plate and all the bells and whistles; Volcano Hot end, Touch Probe solution, 110v heated bed for fast heating, dual belted Z, floating Z couplers, color touch screen, USB flash drive support, just overall a fully complete package with top notch engineering.
@@ThantiK In my case the Sidewinder is about $200 more than this. That's a big difference.
might just be me but I'm seeing layer lines on your prints and light reflection draws attention to it.
How loud is the SV06? Are the fans audible? I like my printers to be as quiet as possible.
I very recently upgraded from an Ender 3 Pro to a SV06 and it has been fantastic thus far, super easy setup and haven't had any issues with the bed leveling whereas on my Ender 3 it was a constant struggle.
Really my biggest nitpicks are the cable for the bed, which on mine was quite stiff and would go on top of the bed potentially knocking prints off. But this was quickly solved by printing a stress relief.
Another nitpick was that originally the printer came with the belts tensioned to ridiculous levels resulting in a VERY loud print. Loosened them quite a bit and it's a lot quieter, some movement is still quite loud but can apparently be mitigated almost entirely by disassembling the printer and properly greasing the insides of all the bearings as just lubricating the rods won't work - it will just push the grease to the sides.
The control board being so easily accessible is a godsend as the placement on the Ender 3 is absolutely retarded.
In short, if you got an Ender 3, yeet that garbage out the window and upgrade to this. Apparently Sovol uses a lot of Creality components but at least it feels like Sovol has SOME kind of quality assurance. Whereas Creality wouldn't know what quality is even if it hit them straight in the face.
Fuck Creality, thanks for coming to my TED talk.
How much distance is between the feet of the printer on the bottom?
Can't wait to get mine I have 4 on order and thinking of ordering 2 more I am starting a small farm I already 3 printers Ender 3 pro very modified ,xyz DaVinci 1 ,qubea qd-x1 pro witch I need to fix I got it for free it's a delta print info is hard to find.great review
Honestly I feel like these will be great farm printers. They might not have the speed of a Bambu but for the price it’s alot of printer with great features. This is likely what I would recommend for a low cost farm printer at this point.
For petg putting down a layer of tape also is an option
I think it is safe to say that nowadays, unless you somehow buy a 10 dollar printer, every single entry level printer is pretty damn good. I spent an eternity looking for options for my first printer and ended up buying the anycubic vyper, and I am incredibly happy with it, but I see a lot of new models from different manufacturers with the same level of features and they are all equally impressive... I think that we should be happy with the state of the market for those of us who are getting started.
Hello, I hope someone can help me.
I have the problem that I can't print Pla from "Das Filament" with my SV06 :(
After a while, the extruder "scrapes" the filament at one point in such a way that it is finally no longer fed. I had no problems with other filament manufacturers. What could that be?
Thanks in advance :)
Sv06 or sv05? Which would you suggest if you had to pick one?