3D Printing 101: Troubleshooting a Bad Print / Installing a New Nozzle
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ม.ค. 2019
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Sean had some issues with his Prusa i3 mk3 3d printer. We texted back and forth, but it was best for me to visit. 5 hours in a plane later, and we made it happen! The Bob-Omb model had extrusion inconsistences on one side. We tried a few troubleshooting techniques until we found the cause, and fixed it!
#3dprinter #troubleshooting #seanisawesome
Links from the episode:
Prusa i3 mk3: 3d.pn/prusa
Filament Friday Toolkit: amzn.to/2CTciUi
E3D Hardened Nozzle: 3d.pn/e3dhard
Stronghero3D: 3d.pn/stronghero3d
Bob-Omb: www.thingiverse.com/thing:1431137
CLICK THESE LINKS
Magigoo: thought3d.com
Stronghero3D: 3d.pn/stronghero3d
Matterhackers BUILD series filaments (aff) : 3d.pn/mhbuild
Matterhackers 3D Printers (aff) : 3d.pn/mhprinters
Proto Pasta (aff): 3d.pn/protopasta
Prusa (aff): 3d.pn/prusa
Puget Systems: 3d.pn/pugetsystems
Channel Merch Shop : 3d.pn/shop
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Well, poo. The audio is out of sync for a moment and I ACCIDENTALLY cut off Sean at the end. I did some edits late at night while he was playing the new Kingdom Hearts 3. Fully my fault, my mistake. Sean, I'm sorry. When you're in Seattle next, the first round is on me. Also, it's really cold in Michigan right now, don't die.
Can confirm, it is very cold here in Michigan. No school so a great day to do a long print :)
Ahahahah I thought that ending was fully intentional since you left it to him and just cut it off.
like acting you only notice it when its bad
3D Printing Nerd Kingdom hearts 3 is so good! I just 3d printed soras keyblade and working on making a video about it. Don’t worry about the issues with the video. It still has great info and it’s helpful.
Is it sync (editing issue) or drift? it sounded and looked like it drifted.
Sean gets his solo moment and TH-cam cuts him off! ...Thanks for mentioning the Tool Kit and my brief cameo at 10:40.
Love your videos and how you do tons of videos on good afforable printers.
Can you do a video on how to get rid of zits please ?
jesus bastidas when you comment on somebody’s comment complimenting there Channel on somebody else’s channel well in the comment thread of there Channel and giving him video suggestions
I DID MY FIRST 3D PRINT TODAY!!!
MUCH EXCITE!!!
What did you print
Welcome to the rabbit hole. lol
@@ussendeavour2408A your mom
3yrs later, where are you now?
I’ve had these problems before, they are rare but hard to diagnose if you’re not familiar with 3D printing so I’m really glad this video helps teach viewers about them
Thanks! That was the thing - Sean is new and didn’t know. Now, he knows!
I have this issue right now(bad surface only in front of the objects), I had no ideia what to do.. I hope that changing the nozzle will resolve my issue.
@@raphaielbr So did your problem solve, please tell me I am also having same problem.
@@proknow4305 Yes! But in my case, my nozzle was only a little used with ABS, I don't needed change the nozzle, I just keeped print, I think this self cleaned the nozzle, I think my nozzle was only clogged up.
धन्यवाद मित्र।
Doesn't matter how expensive your 3d printer is. Sometimes the hardware just wears out or gets loose. Great vid.
He said it never printed right, my guess it was a kit and wasn't put together properly plus him messing up the nozzle.
I'm really glad this video was made I had these problems with my tronxy x5s and now with some tweaking and replacement nozzel it prints great, thanks 3DPN and Sean!!!
I was surprised at such a smooth finish on the final print. It has a spun fiber look instead of the stepped layered look I see on so many 3d prints.
Excellent timing!! I've been having the same problems, and using my flush cutters the same way... THANKS GUYS. I look forward to getting home today to troubleshoot.
Thank you so much for making this video. I was having this very issue and I couldn't find a good solution anywhere else. These troubleshooting steps helped me go from printing awful messes to printing very nice models! Cheers!
Dude - great timing on this vid. I've been having very similar issues and was at a loss on what to try. Excited to check and try these things to hopefully get mine fixed 👍
Thanks!
Great video Joel and Sean! Thank you so much for putting out troubleshooting videos. They are a great service to the 3d printing community, and newbies like myself. I have a new Prusa MK3 that I received in early January, and had the same layer shift issue on the y axis after I assembled my kit. As it turns out, this is a very common issue for those that buy the kit. Prusa has a video on their site that helps to troubleshoot common issue and this is one of those featured in the video. Once I identified the axis having the issue, I quickly found that I hadn't tightened the set screws on the Y motor pulley. As it turns out it is a final step that was left out of the printed manual (at least I couldn't find it anyway). My Benchies are now beautiful! Again, great video!
I'm brand new to the medium and so so so thankful for the work the community has put in. Thanks guys!
Troubleshooting is always a struggle but so satisfying when it's done! I recently replaced all the belts and pulleys on my printer and it's printing better than ever. So worthwhile.
Anytime you post a troubleshooting video, you can always count on a Like from me. The more knowledge people know the better their prints will be. Pass the knowledge on people!
Joel and Sean Great content. Because of your channel I started getting into 3d printing and I love it. Your passion is great. It helped me decided to start my own youtube channel. Keep up the great work.
Thanks for another video full of great information. I've been dealing with layer shift too, usually with Cura over other slicers for some reason. I discovered my grub screws were loose, but that was only have the issue. On a side note, I also changed my grub screws to stainless steel so the hex doesn't strip out when making it tighter.
After months of troubles I discovered the layer shift was due to the travel speed. Cura default was 120mm/sec. I changed that to 60mm/sec and never had another layer shift in the last 2 weeks of running jobs constantly. I think the momentum of my Y axis was more than what my stepper motors could handle. I think there is something in Cura that did more travel or Y axis movement compared to other slicers.
I will pretend that the sound issue, and cutting him off at the end was just your way of showing him how much you need him as an editor. ;) Either way, once again, a great video! I've been printing for years, and the first few years would have been a lot less frustrating if your channel existed back then.
Yes, good info as usual and definitely a sound issue. Some weird noise in the back ground was very annoying.
An e3d silicone sock works great for keeping filiment off of your nozzle and block.
Thank you! I've been troubeshooting a strange issue on my MK3 where one corner was all rough. Changed the nozzle and all back to normal! Sometimes we forget the most basic things to check! I had been playing with slicer settings, dehydrating filament and other issues.
Nice job dude! Keep up the good work! FYI I was kinda expecting this video to be a basic trouble shooting guide for 3D printing. I guess this is good to. Keep it up man you are on a roll as always. Thanks!
I've just started having these issues show up on my Prusa clone, and was getting nowhere with online help. Thank goodness you posted this video at just the right time!
I had that problem in my ender3 for a month until today that I've seen this video, thanks!
I've recently been having the same kind of problem with my printer and haven't been able to figure it out. I think this might just be it! Great video as always! Thank you!
Was going to suggest the wire brush, but looks like you got into that. I picked up a small brass brush at Lowe’s for a few $. I like using it to wipe the “bleeding” filament off the nozzle that comes out just before you print while the printer is heating.
THANK YOU ! You guys helped me solve my problem. I had done exactly the same cleaning/destroying process with the clipper and destroyed my extrusion head.
I think you need a series that’s only troubleshooting other peoples printers. It’s so satisfying to see the process and the successful results.
I’d love to see more videos like this. Thanks Joel!
I just went thru all the same issues on my MK3 and when I tightened both belts and printed a Y tensioner it was much better. Glad I wasn't the only one :)
I love you, thanks I spend hours trying to trouble shoot I’m new to printing and couldn’t figure it out but I had messed up the nozzle as well and didn’t even know it was a thing
Snap! Had the same problem with my Anycubic Chiron . 4 days into a 6 day print, frustrating to say the least. Turned out to be the PTF tube had distorted where it touched the back of the nozzle and effectively reduced the internal size of the tube to about 50% reducing the flow of PLA. Ended up switching out both the tube and nozzle and now its back to printing amazingly well. Thanks for another great video..
Really informative, thank you guys!
Thank you. Great vid. Great reminders.
Would love a series of videos like this with troubleshooting. I had issues with me CR10s and it was from having the nozzle needing cleaning, something you had demoed once.
and you really helped me understand what was a problem after swapping the brass for a steel nozzle. I had switched filaments and nozzles and now realize I didn't adjust temp appropriately. And my Prusa actually had lost one of the grub screws and the one left was slipping. 'Tightening made such a difference. Now to find that grub screw.
Whatever you print, try to solve a problem. Like Joel's tripod feet or door handles. Love practical prints. I did shower curtain rings, just because I could print them in a complimentary color to the curtain and wall colors.
Hi Joel, long time lurker, first time commenter (I think). I've watched most if not all of your 3d printing videos from preparing to buy my first printer through printing lots with it. I really enjoyed this troubleshooting video, and your way of presenting is unique and enjoyable. I would love to see a playlist of troubleshooting issues. It's always awesome to watch you make stuff, but it's frustrating not being able to follow along, sitting all day on the 3d printing discord server, looking up issues here and there, trying them out to no success. This video is great! Thanks for all the wonderful content!
Outstanding video. I would LOVE to see many more of these types of troubleshooting and tuning!!
You got it!
Thank for helping me with my issues. I liked the bomb file so much I printed 10 of them
Nice trouble shooting
Thanks for sharing 😀👍
its about time 3d printer people are finally starting to give fixing tutorials. someone finally realized how hard it is for a noob to learn this stuff on their own. took me personally way to long to learn this all on my own, i had to wait until i had that issue grow to unprintable status to figure out how to fix it.
I know it has been over a year since you had posted this video... but it is still as valid today as it was then. Thanks for the advice and help. However, after trying your suggestions I was still getting bad prints. They looked just like what was in your video. After a bit of 'Troubleshooting' I noticed my bed had a slight wobble to it. My investigations led me to the bearings, they were worn and had some slop in them. After I replaced them my prints improved drastically.
So another potential trouble spot would be checking that the bearings have a good snug fit.
It really was time for me to change my nozzle :)
Thanks for the some tricks of the trade.
Great video......I was nervously anticipating another video of delving into the dozens of painful parameters that can be adjusted to correct temperature and extrusion issues (most of which only produce minor improvements) but was pleasantly surprised to see some basic troubleshooting used to fix a narly problem. I'm off to check my grub screws!
@12:50, if you have brass nozzles, use the brass bristled brush. The steel will dig into the brass.
this is the content I like! well done
Great video and after watching this I'm going to be tweaking one of my cr10s printers as its doing the exact same thing and I'm almost certain I clipped the nozzle just like your guest did.
Thanks for sharing and as always Keep Building👍
Ok Bro, this time you really hit the nail on the head. I'm taking some 400 grit and lightly finishing my nozzle tip...smooth as butter now. That, along with block sanding my build plate, has both of my printers (Anet A8 and LK1) layin' down a perfect first layer. As long as I don't get greedy with the build plate area I have zer0 problems.
Thanks, again very informative
YOU LIFE SAVER!!!! im pretty new to printing and habve a prussa pro b experiencing these issues im about to run a test cube to see if the issues are fixed but its already sounding healthier :D
OH MY...my printer has been broken for about a month with this EXACT problem..perfect timing, thanks! :D
those brushes are available at Autozone as well. I had a set sitting on my toolbox in the garage, and I decided to bring them in and use them to clean up my 3d printer hot end prior to replacing my nozzle. Thank you for the tip to replace the nozzle it cured my problems
yes i need to go through my machine tomorrow...i had this issue last year...thanks
I just started getting layer issues on my 3d printer some layers wasn't sticking together but the print still successfully complete I watched this video and just bought a new nozzle and fitted it and my issue has gone, strange timing 😁 I get a problem and you release a video that helps me straight away thank you
Great Tips !!!!
I have a original I3 and sometime have some layershifts and your tips helped 100 %$ ( grubscrews on the pulley)
I have been trying everything from tightening belts and changing settings for a better print. I am definitely going to switch out the nozzle because my issues are the same as in the video.
Oh now... Shawn was going to finish it up, then he was cut away....
Great video. Had similar looking problems with my CR-10 Mini printer but it had another issue. I had a Y belt that was a little flexible while the X belt was not. A belt replacement did the trick.
Have some great prints Shawn, like maybe a bicycle (pretty difficult with all the spokes).
I love that Sean explains things in “average Joe” rather than technical jargon. Makes it supper easy for beginners to relate to because the are like, “yes exactly- my model looks like someone scratched it with keys- HELP ME!!!”
Sean needs to print Soup Tin Kelly from SparkyFace5!!!
To add to troubleshooting, things I had to troubleshoot with my newly built machine:
1. Belt too slack (same problem as in this video). Apparently you should be able to twang it like a guitar string.
2. Filament to the right of machine. If you have an external filament reel holder and place it parallel to the x axis, it will pull on the x axis when it moves, giving a fair bit of resistance and causing it to slip. I placed the filament parallel to the y axis instead (in front of the machine) and it works infinitely better. Currently looking into mounting it on top.
3. Squeaky z movement. This one is obvious but I just sprayed a little lubricant on the top end of the threaded rods, and it improved both the sound and quality of the print.
Good video, Guys.
I've had that strange artifact (to a lesser degree) since day one with my CR-10S. it's driven me nuts as it seems to come and go. I'd guess every time I work on it, I'm moving the orientation of the defect. It seems the 2 nozzles that came with the CR-10S were both either machined poorly or banged up. Time to order that hardened nozzle I guess. It never occurred to me that BOTH nozzles had issues.
Thanks!
Really great video!!!
Go Blue!! Great video, guys! Super helpful.
Great video guys. I'm going to go and fix my 3D printer!
Ooooh do NOT get me started on the grub screws! Mine in the bondtech gear wore itself to a rounded end so it wouldn't grip the motor shaft, and when I went to tighten it, it stripped. Had to remove the entire E axis to fix it, and ordered new screws from bondtech themselves.
The screws on the Prusa I got were a silver "steel?" And very very soft. The replacements were all hardened steel and black, much stronger. This was for both the X and Y pulleys and the drive gear. Since replacement, no more backing out or coming loose and causing slop or underextrusion.
Thank you for this, now I know I wasn't going crazy!
Great video. I'm having trouble with printing Lithophanes. The top right corner always fails. I will check belt and grub screws. Thanks.
Great vid. Please do more troubleshooting videos.
Test prints in black filament seem to show print irregularities better, at least on camera
Body shops hate black cars. Every wave, dent, bump, and scratch is easy to see.
Lol ! Good video, when i've seen his print i instantely thinked about grub screws, i had the same problem, they tent to make loose over time, also it's really easy to miss the full tightening step on the manual.
When a trouble shooting video needs its own trouble shooting video to sort out the audio. Ingenious.
thanks and more like this please!
That is exactly my problem, thank you very much, i just bougth some new nozzles
Hey Joel an Shaun , the prusa mk3 does vibrate quite a bit ,so i use thread locker on most of the metal on metal connections (don't use on any plastic as it will dissolve over time).
You should try printing a lithophane (picture) @3d.rocks they really do look cool.
Great channel guys and family, high 5
Thank you!
Hey Joel & Sean, great video!! So Joel... does that mean your starting in-home 3D Printer Repair service??
I am with you Sean... it is nerve racking to repair your printer!!
As for your box of tools & parts... make sure to mark it... I almost tossed mine out when cleaning my bench...
At 4:20, I can clearly see how using the flush cutters like that could lead to that problem. Instead of cutting the filament cold, on my printer, I heat up the filament to print temp, then I can retract the filament back one step with the move menu. Then I use a large set of tweezers to run just along the sides of the nozzle down to the tip to grab the molten plastic from the tip. If I need to I repeat again a couple more times if I continue to get some more oozing but it should stop soon since you previously retracted the filament. Then as soon as possible lower the nozzle heat back down below print temp to allow the filament to set back up inside the nozzle clean and flush. No risk of cutting any metal pieces nor getting your fingers burned either. I am uncertain as whether a Prusa can retract filament since I haven't played with one but this works well with my little Monoprice Mini Select. Great advice shared Joel!
Great video. Thanks
This vid is amazing! these were the exact problems i was having. where did you get the steel nozzle from?
thanks, I have an issue like that too...Ill do this !!!
This helped out so much with my prusa i3 mk3 kit. The grub screws were a bit loose and it made a massive difference. The only problem i have now is bad bed adhesion. With pla I have the bed at 60c so should I reduce the temperature a little bit?
Have you had a chance to use the tungsten nozzle for e3d? If so thoughts on it.
A few years ago, I got the exact same problem with the loose grub screw on the belt (on my X axis), on my MK2. I quickly found the solution on the prusa3d.com forum (and reprap.org forum). The 3D printing community is fantastic
Great video!
hey Joel, been scouring your vids and others for a solution to my PETG warping on corners after many hours into a print. I haven't really found a good solution. I am printing at 240 with a bed of 80. 80 seems high to me but that what it took to get the first layer to stick. I am printing on an Ender 3 wih a direct drive mod from printermods, with the ender 3 glass bed which also has the black coating on it. My PLA prints work like a champ consistently.Any input, or suggestions for other bids to watch would be greatly appreciated.
Great help, thank's
Well, I only just started 3D printing, with a big build area Tronxy X5SA. Even with the auto leveling driving me up the wall. Because it do it and I have 6 tension spring knobs to try and get the 16 auto checked points on the big 330 by 330 build hot plate adjusted to the stated 0.8 hot end height above the hot bed? Really hard to get it right I had to just get it as close to it as possible but not 0.8 each point. Then the Z axis adjustment too very hard to do right? After many many try's I got it sort of close. I downloaded the famous Benchy Boat and with the free PLA white I got with the printer, I did the slicing in the Tronxy own brand slicer and after 4 hours of printing this small white Benchy was done! Not bad looking for a 1st newbie print I guess? Not prefect, But Okay.
I brought some ABS blue filament and just spent half a day trying to re-level the print bed... Really a pain.. then on to do my 1st ABS print, which was a couple of side by side ABS small Z axis stoppers for the printer I got. That's why I am here watching you guy's Because both of those tubes after printing just broke in two length wise and they were printed at the recommended settings on the spool of ABS, which was 244 C for the hot end and 90 C for the hot bed. both were pre-heated.. the hot end is new brass one no damage. I followed the guide of the printer manual to clear out the white PLA that had just done the Benchy! So I checked the printer belts are tight enough, I really don't know what is the problem? Now I just seen a British printing company Has done a now Super Hot End Nozzle called " NOZZLE X " Which can handle any filament even the tough stuff. And not wear out. I most likely get one as they d all sizes and the Nozzle is a good price. here is the website link > e3d-online.com/products/v6-nozzles
Interesting change of nozzle. I never loosened the heater block first, then unscrewed the nozzle. I always held the heater block in place with a wrench. Will try this out next time :)
Thanks !
I had the same issue with my 3d printer. Artifacts started to show up and i didn't knew what's the problem. Then i figured out that my X axis belt tightener broke. With some wire i fixed the problem temporarily until I printed the new one.
Nice video
I have mk3 and I am having issue with Abs print, " heating done massage" it stop the print and filament eject message is displayed than I have loads the filament again, it works and stops again, the same file in pla setting works perfect, any suggestion
I don't know how long ago this was recorded, but I, a michigander, apologise for the cold here.
It looks like you have a different fan duct than what comes with the MK3s. Which one did you add?
Thanks
Thank you
My y-axis grub screws loosened and I got layer shifts like that. It'll shift in the same locations because it's the same amount of torque needed in the same spots every time you print something.
I think this may be my exact problem because I do the same thing on my Monoprice Maker Select Plus and I'm getting similar results. I'll have to take the nozzle off and inspect it.
Cool vid !
Sean should print a soda or red bull snap cover lid with his logo on it.
Nice vid! I finally know what to do about my Prusa now. Check al mechanics. Ironic, since I'm a mechanic... I was looking into recalibrating and all parameters instead of looking for the obvious.
Hi Joel,
I have been watching the channel for a little while now and i really want to get a 3d printer. What would you suggest for a new person like me to get? I have been looking at the cr-10s.
Hi there Joel, I am new to 3D printing, but I’ve watched your videos for a long time now. I have an M3D+ printer and for some reason every time I print anything, it leaves a messed up layer line directly down the front center of the print. I don’t know what it could be. Any tips would be great! Thank you!
Do indexed belts exist ? Coupled with the matching sensor to read exactly where the belt is, and how far it's from where it's supposed to be.
I recently picked up the CR X pro and I have been having issues with printing
I am going to change the nozzle because thats definitely one of the issues that I am having (bad extrusion because of clipping the brass)
I think my main issue is leveling with the bl touch and the 25 points of leveling
I would love to see more videos on how to use the Bl touch properly (for noobs like me) lol
I have the Prusa MK2.5 and I always dread swapping nozzles because the heater's wire is really easy to snap off especially when it's hot.
And the way the Prusa and most FDM printers have their heat block set up it's extremely hard to not affect those wires when swapping out a nozzle.
I really hope they make a new way to swap out nozzles ASAP. I've had to swap out the heater and thermistor once so far because of this and it's a pain in the ass to cut loose all the zip ties and replace the parts. :{
For the hardened steel nozzle you should get a E3D Silicone Sock Pro. It'll help insulate the block and nozzle and help keep the fan from blowing on and cooling the nozzle down and will prevent filament from sticking to it. Plus the additional insulation should help cut the electric bill down a little bit.
Hey Joel! Do you know of any good videos for learning G code? or do you have one I can't find? Thanks in advance #HighFive