Huh. A company who's own YT channel isnt trash, and is like, completely useful, and genuinely informational without feeling like a corporate powerpoint presentation? Yes please!
The editing was amazing, the graphics were lovely, and the audio was mixed wonderfully with upbeat music and easily understood narration. Wonderful job!
Hi! I'm newbie in Fdm 3d printing and I was wondering: -Larger nozzles print faster, but in slicer setting you have to change layer height also? I mean if you slice at 0.2 layer height and then print with a 0.4 and 0.6 nozzle, it will take the same time or it will be faster with 0.6?
Thanks for a very informative and helpful video. Just bought a 0.8mm nozzle from E3D and after a couple of experiments have printed a really large, strong box/tray out of generic PLA. Upped the temperature to 225c, used 0.5mm layer height with a 0.4mm first layer and 1.0mm line width. Slowed the general speeds down to 30 to 40mms with 20mms first layer. The result was really successful, very strong and ideal for the purpose without wasting hours on tiny layers for a big object. Very encouraged by this video - changing the nozzle was easy and I am now going to try some smaller nozzles.
Great, thanks for the comment! It's always nice to hear that the video actually encouraged someone to try something new that helped him :) Good idea with upping the temperature, with this much plastic going through so fast, it can be tricky to heat it in time.
wow, first time watching one of your vids. Extremely professional and clear - those graphics are so helpful in understanding what youre talking about. very impressed!
I don't have 3D Printer, but in 1-2 weeks i will receive my first 3D Printer. I don't know much about them but i like this video! You can't find a lot of videos that not only explain but even show what is the difference! This video explain and show all what you need to know! Keep making videos like this, they realy help more than you know!
It's a shame that I only get the genuine Josef Prusa channel after 7 months in 3D world! Better late than never, so I subscribed and hit the "bell"... and off course the "thumbs UP!!!" Thank you sooooo much to bring down 3D printed technology to "regular people" and low budget scientific teams. A lot of "fun toys" will be printed, but it also help scientists around the world make new achievment. Joseph Prusa, you can be proud of yourselfe; your open mind attitude is a bless for Humanity. Alexandre Valiquette, from Québec, Canada
thank you very much, as a printing newbie im on a binge watch of these informative videos. im absorbing information at a quick pace thank to people you sharing information and tests!.
Hello new one ! If you want some more tips and informations, you can also watch -3d printing nerd -Makersmuse -Make anything -Vector3d There are of course many more, but those are the best. And if you need specific informations about fillament strengh and other more sciency tests watch CNC Kitchen. Have a great day !
The problem with using 1mm nozzles is that you have to also deal with heating. A hotend can only move heat to your filament so fast, so you often have to deal with that and lower the speed. I'm not sure how the MK3 handles that, but it seems like in the video it handled just fine. My robotics team has a massive 3d printer with an E3D volcano, and we usually have to slow down the print because the extruder can't move the filament fast enough, but that is a totally different reason.
Great video! I have been going to a .6mm nozzle lately and have been experimenting with .8mm and 1mm thick lines, this seems to increase layer bonding with the added pressure to make the lines wider, it has also impoved the surface quality of prints using CF-PA quite a bit. Forget about overhangs and bridging though.
I was blown away by the quality I got when I first used a 0.2 mm nozzle. And supports are super easy to remove too. But even with super small prints the print time is huge. Sometimes it's not worth it, depending on the situation.
My order for this printer has been placed and should be here in July. Please keep these type videos coming so I can learn what a newbie needs to know. This video was easy to understand educated me on the proper selection of nozzles. Thank you immensely. A video on temperatures and filaments along with the many types of filaments available would be great.
Hey, nice choice on the printer and happy printing when it get's there! You should check out videos by: Maker's Muse, 3D Printing Nerd, Make Anything, and Thomas Sanladerer to name a few here on youtube. Maker's Muse has a nice series on "3D Printing 101" and Tom has the "Things you should know about filaments"
A great way to learn about 3d printing is to learn what every single part does hands on. Also, for getting the best prints I would recommend to be patient and slow down the speed. Speed is one the number one quality factors. If you need help, r/3dprinting is always a great place for advice.
As a mechanical engineer it took me waaayyyy too long to go up from the standard 0.4mm nozzle size. I have used a 0.8mm a bit, and I only want to go higher. For functional parts without tiny details, bigger, bigger and bigger still nozzles is the definite way to go.
Iv'e always thought .6mm was the best medium. You guys should make an upgrade (or a new feature on your next machine) Where the printer can change it's own nozzle. Would be great for clogs and jams during prints for the machine to fix itself and continue printing, but even better is that when combine with the MMU you basically get e3d's tool change machine but in a much cheaper package all the way around the board. Rather than buying 5 hot ends you buy 5 nozzles
Nice idea I never consider using a larger nozzle, but after this I see a advantage to it in some prints ... not everything but something can be a advantage....thanks for sharing....Jack
The max i have right now is a .8mm nozzle but for some reason with the mk3 i cannot get prints to even look remotely like the 1mm nozzle prints in the video and i am having a hard time tweaking the settings, would you mind sharing some tips and helping me out trying to utilize the .8mm nozzle?
That or i would not mind going down to a .6mm nozzle as i have that one too but wanted to upgrade to either .6 or .8mm exclusively as for the parts i print do not need to be of great detail.
SOLD! Don't know that I'll go up to 1mm, but the other two look fantastic, and the saved print time for larger items which usually don't have that much fine detail is just phenomenal.
I just did my first print with a 1mm nozzle in my ender 3, it came out prety good with minor adjustments to temperature, definetely a hugh improvement in print time that people is missing out!
From an Olympus owner, +1 just for including a micro-four-thirds camera instead of a Canon or Nikon :). But very informative. I have tried other nozzles, but I'll have to do so again...
with 1 mm nozzle you really need to taky many precautions when printing things like tools because walls around holes (for example nuts or screwdriver heads or whatever polygonal hollow shape u need to make) tend to end up wobbly and distorted because of the heavy filament use; even worse with ABS when long segments tend to contract violently warping corners in long edges
Well I changed both nozzles on our Raise 3D pro 2 at work yesterday and it was quite the task as you need to remove the hotend completely, support it while screwing the nozzles in and out, put them back in and recalibrate everything... But next time the 0.4mm nozzles are done I'll definitely think about putting a bigger one on one of the extruders. We sometimes want to print fine and sometimes want to print large and fast, so why not try this.
I’m fairly new to all this, and this was wonderfully done. I have a better understanding on some of the output aspects I’d not known or had been able to figure out.
I have Microswiss hotend with 0.4/0.8/1.2mm SS nozzles. It's very true about filament disappearing with 1.2mm nozzles, but 1 perimeter and +20C over normal print temp, fan for cooling all that molten filament also slowing the print speed to %68 so the hotend can keep up. still prints about 1/3 the time of 0.4mm nozzle (still needs tuning).
Great video, perfectly show cases the advantages and disadvantages of different nozzle sizes. I have a 0.3 and 0.5mm nozzle, but haven't tried them out.
Great timing, got my Mk3 (kit version) about a week ago. Fantastic printer but was already thinking about larger nozzels as with my old (very old and worn out) k8200 I mostly needed and printed custom brackets and cases for projects. It was quicker than the mk3 but a pain to use all the bed area. Ordering a new nozzle now. :)
You should mention the polish too. With ABS, you can easily vapor smooth your print with acetone. The layers will be much more difficult to notice, making bigger nozzles even more interesting.
The way to change a nozzle is first heat the hot end, as filament gets in the threads and locks them in place. Then when it is hot you can easily unscrew the nozzle, just don't burn your fingers. Putting a new nozzle in is easy.
I just wonder about the volumetric speed of the filament when using the 1mm nozzle. I noticed when printing at 120mm/s with .2 layers and a .4 nozzle that I was actually running into heating issues with PLA at 215 which in some cases only resulted in a slight color change but in others made it so the layers wouldn't adhere to each other.
PrusaSlicer 2.5 and newer versions have the Arachne perimeter generator which can vary the extrusion width when printing, so you should get better detail with a 0.4 than before.
nice video, congratulations. it was just what I was looking for, many examples, and you showed them well, down to the smallest details. Also good for how you edited the video. thank you !
As with so many things this video shows how Prusa raises the bar and sets new standards. Great video, marvelous production. It would be wonderful to see some of these G-codes appear on Prusa weekly prints to get more people to use 0.25 and 0.60 nozzles^^
I ordered a 0.2 mm and 1 mm nozzles for my Ender 3 pro. The 1 mm is for the big simple items ( pen holders and other office accessories ) that have very little to no small details and the print time is slashed by at least 50%
every nozzle size has it's uses.. the 1mm diameter is perfect for creating large things that have very little detail.. and the smaller nozzle is good for small things with a lot of detail..
Had lots of fun printing with a 1.2mm volcano on a lulzbot we were given, it was a shame to waste it's big print volume with smaller stuff. Eating over 100g of filament an hour is fun, if expensive! :) The i3 series does seem to work better with 1mm or under and suits them very well. Loverly machine. Please release an official enclosure kit(Laser cut + 3d printed parts) that fits neatly and elegantly around your Mk3's!
Shouldn´t be more expensive - I´d assume the total amount of filament used for the product should be about the same, maybe marginally more. It´s only the relative consumption (Filament per hour) that increases as the print time goes down. Total cost actually go down, as you can calculate less machine time, i.e. less wear per print or more prints within a given lifespan of your printer :)
It's more a side effect of being able to print larger things quickly. If you have a machine that can eat a kilo of filament a day without a worry you end up going through more just as a result of printing more things. :) However you do have the side effects of printing the same object somewhat heavier with these large layer heights due to the extra volume used in support material and your decreased overhang capabilities, so you tend to need more material.
I'm currently experimenting with different nozzles on my ender 3 pro.. I've found that 0.5 is the sweet spot IMO, you can print fast with reasonable accuracy at .2mm layer height and if you want to really speed things up, you're able to go up to .4mm layer height and basically double the speed. I tried 0.8 and even 1mm nozzles but I found that a lot of the things I tried to print simply wouldn't work due to the line width limitations.
Got a hardened nozzle, gonna give that a shot next for some GitD and Carbon Fiber materials. Once I'm familiar with swapping out the nozzle, I'll try a smaller nozzle size.
I'd like to see full carbon fiber print head so light and stiff it can just whiz through the air so fast that even nozzle fan can be discarded making it even lighter.
@@isaaclyonsf1 CoreXY for minimum moving weight, strong bowden extruder, Smaller buildspace so that all moving axes are shorter and thus light, thin aluminium fins with larger gaps for coldend (air flows without the fan), hotend with minimum size heatblock, titanium throat between hot and coldend to insulate as well as possible, part cooling if needed is attached to the frame outside the moving parts. Especially with no bed heating, it should be possible for more easily flowing lower temperature materials like PLA!
There are two main issues preventing me from using a different nozzle with my printer. #1 - Compatibility; It's not obvious what nozzles are compatible with my printer, and the printer manufacturer does not offer any other nozzles on their website. #2 - Changing the nozzle; I once had to remove the stock nozzle on my printer to clear a jam. I followed all the instructions, but when I reattached the nozzle, the threaded portion sheared right off, forcing me to replace the entire hot-end (at a cost of $75) since the nozzle threads were stuck inside.
what the heck brand of 3d printer are you using? if its possible I would highly recommend frankenstiening a V6 style extruder to it I have a 3d printer from a defunct brand and I swapped the extruder and hotend for Wind BMG V6 and never looked back. Much better print speed and compatible with just about anything.
I have used 1 mm nozzles with great success. Your information about the point 6 mm nozzle is really interesting. I am definitely have to try that for some of my projects. Has always all of your videos are very informative thank you very much
Easy to remove support isn't always a good thing. I had an asa print seperate an overhang from the support on it's own and curling upwards. Conclusion: technical/sturdy parts with bigger nozzles, small nozzles for fine details. Vast majority of users would profiteer from a 6. I ordered an 8
Great vid, I have a question about your filament in the background. I’m new to the 3D printing world, I just 3D printed my first print of that bunny off of mesh mixer it was fun. Anyways, I keep hearing that filament can get warped or absorb water and what not so go buy these $50+ containers that protect them from the elements, but I see you have a huge open wall full of filament in the open, how often does filament get ruined for being left out? Any input from anyone is appreciated thank you.
Hi, I am using a 0.8 nozzle in my and notice, that I have to set parameters like wall line for example to 0.85. it must be the same or higher. But what happen if I have Avery big object and this object has some details with a wall of 0.6 mm? Than I will have gaps. So I would have to set my wall line to 0.6 mm. Isn't it ?
Setting the extrusion width to a lower value than your nozzle diameter is not recommended. You will be essentially under-extruding in a weird way. We use this for supports to make them break away easier. - Mikolas
I wish I could, but I only use Prusa Slicer which doesn’t appear to have that. And I don’t think it’s worth learning a whole new slicer just for different supports.
A tutorial on how to set the slicer will be helpful. I changed to a 0.25 nozzle a few weeks ago and even though I set this on the slicer, print density remained unchanged. I could not use the resulting model and support was unable to help me. Please follow this up with a settings tutorial?
Would be interesting to hear what settings change if you in or decrease the nozzle diameter. I recently got a 0.8 mm nozzle and I still have troubles with holes, oozing and stringing.
Me too, just got the mk 3 a few days ago, upgraded to an .8mm nozzle and having the same issues, were you able to tweak the settings and fix it because i am still doing so
Alex Brensike congrats for your mk3 great choise 👍. I wasnt able to fix it totally but i could reduce the issues with a longer retraction distance(~8-14mm), a much slower retraction speed(~1-3mm/s) and a slight higher flowrate(1-5%). Play around with these settings and let me know if you were successful ✌
How does max volumetric flow rate scale up with larger diameter nozzle? For example 2.5mm^3/s for FLEX filament on 0.4mm, could it be scaled up to 3.75mm^3/s or even 5.625mm^3/s with 0.6mm nozzle? I image at least with flex there is a limit because of jamming the filament before the nozzle.
Huh. A company who's own YT channel isnt trash, and is like, completely useful, and genuinely informational without feeling like a corporate powerpoint presentation?
Yes please!
The editing was amazing, the graphics were lovely, and the audio was mixed wonderfully with upbeat music and easily understood narration. Wonderful job!
Thanks! The content team loves to hear these kind of words :)
@@Prusa3D I agree, and when they introduced the 1mm nozzle with that intro it really had me laughing for a while. Keep up the good work!
One of the best tutorial/informational videos I've seen on 3D printing (or anything!). Concise, engaging, well organized. Very well done!
Yeees, incredible work with all things. But the content is the best. Thanks for Sharing
Haha, sarcasm is a wonderful thing.
[I did not understand half of what he said, partly because the music in the background]
Just installed a 0.6mm nozzle, and it is SO much faster than 0.4! Highly recommend trying it out.
Did you have to change the temp much?
@@damagedtalent you shouldn't
Hi! I'm newbie in Fdm 3d printing and I was wondering:
-Larger nozzles print faster, but in slicer setting you have to change layer height also? I mean if you slice at 0.2 layer height and then print with a 0.4 and 0.6 nozzle, it will take the same time or it will be faster with 0.6?
@@Andreastoro it’ll be faster with a .6mm nozzle since it’s pushing out more filament. Make sure you change your nozzle size in your slicer.
@Muckin 4on why rusty?
Thanks for a very informative and helpful video. Just bought a 0.8mm nozzle from E3D and after a couple of experiments have printed a really large, strong box/tray out of generic PLA. Upped the temperature to 225c, used 0.5mm layer height with a 0.4mm first layer and 1.0mm line width. Slowed the general speeds down to 30 to 40mms with 20mms first layer. The result was really successful, very strong and ideal for the purpose without wasting hours on tiny layers for a big object. Very encouraged by this video - changing the nozzle was easy and I am now going to try some smaller nozzles.
Great, thanks for the comment! It's always nice to hear that the video actually encouraged someone to try something new that helped him :) Good idea with upping the temperature, with this much plastic going through so fast, it can be tricky to heat it in time.
wow, first time watching one of your vids. Extremely professional and clear - those graphics are so helpful in understanding what youre talking about. very impressed!
This was so ace; my nozzle jammed tonight and this convinced me to explore other sizes. Excellent presentation.
Hello i'm french and i love your vidéo because you explain slowly and it's easy to understand thank you
I don't have 3D Printer, but in 1-2 weeks i will receive my first 3D Printer. I don't know much about them but i like this video! You can't find a lot of videos that not only explain but even show what is the difference! This video explain and show all what you need to know! Keep making videos like this, they realy help more than you know!
This video is still reference for explaining the different nozzle sizes ❤
The inclusion of the Charpy test in the intro alone is sub-worthy. Great video!
It's a shame that I only get the genuine Josef Prusa channel after 7 months in 3D world!
Better late than never, so I subscribed and hit the "bell"... and off course the "thumbs UP!!!"
Thank you sooooo much to bring down 3D printed technology to "regular people" and low budget scientific teams.
A lot of "fun toys" will be printed, but it also help scientists around the world make new achievment.
Joseph Prusa, you can be proud of yourselfe; your open mind attitude is a bless for Humanity.
Alexandre Valiquette, from Québec, Canada
thank you very much, as a printing newbie im on a binge watch of these informative videos. im absorbing information at a quick pace thank to people you sharing information and tests!.
Hello new one ! If you want some more tips and informations, you can also watch
-3d printing nerd
-Makersmuse
-Make anything
-Vector3d
There are of course many more, but those are the best.
And if you need specific informations about fillament strengh and other more sciency tests watch CNC Kitchen.
Have a great day !
The problem with using 1mm nozzles is that you have to also deal with heating. A hotend can only move heat to your filament so fast, so you often have to deal with that and lower the speed. I'm not sure how the MK3 handles that, but it seems like in the video it handled just fine. My robotics team has a massive 3d printer with an E3D volcano, and we usually have to slow down the print because the extruder can't move the filament fast enough, but that is a totally different reason.
How fast were you extruding the filament?
Out of curiosity, are you using a 1.75 mm filament or 3mm?
Have you used the E3D titan extruder? That think can grab and move filament like a monster, it might be worth a try.
@@JShel14
I have an E3D clone of the volcano and its extraordinary how fast you can extrude
Shut up it comes with a manual
I respect them for being a legit company that still puts memes in the videos. Great video!
Then you might like Elon musk and his company's
Could we also see the impact energy graph with the 1.0mm nozzle?
Great video! I have been going to a .6mm nozzle lately and have been experimenting with .8mm and 1mm thick lines, this seems to increase layer bonding with the added pressure to make the lines wider, it has also impoved the surface quality of prints using CF-PA quite a bit. Forget about overhangs and bridging though.
I was blown away by the quality I got when I first used a 0.2 mm nozzle. And supports are super easy to remove too. But even with super small prints the print time is huge. Sometimes it's not worth it, depending on the situation.
I just bought a 0.15 mm nozzle. Wish me luck.
@@float3225 hours
@@mummyhugo 2 or 3 days for a bigger (relative ) model
My order for this printer has been placed and should be here in July. Please keep these type videos coming so I can learn what a newbie needs to know. This video was easy to understand educated me on the proper selection of nozzles. Thank you immensely.
A video on temperatures and filaments along with the many types of filaments available would be great.
Hey, nice choice on the printer and happy printing when it get's there! You should check out videos by: Maker's Muse, 3D Printing Nerd, Make Anything, and Thomas Sanladerer to name a few here on youtube. Maker's Muse has a nice series on "3D Printing 101" and Tom has the "Things you should know about filaments"
Off to bookmark and subscribe to helpful 3D enthusiasts.
A great way to learn about 3d printing is to learn what every single part does hands on. Also, for getting the best prints I would recommend to be patient and slow down the speed. Speed is one the number one quality factors. If you need help, r/3dprinting is always a great place for advice.
This is a great video, very interesting and useful but also amazing cinematography and production value
the cameras lenses comparison couldn't be more accurate and it is exactly the same case. Great video!
6:20 if I ever had doubt in my mind that I love Prusa, it no longer exsits
As a mechanical engineer it took me waaayyyy too long to go up from the standard 0.4mm nozzle size. I have used a 0.8mm a bit, and I only want to go higher. For functional parts without tiny details, bigger, bigger and bigger still nozzles is the definite way to go.
Iv'e always thought .6mm was the best medium. You guys should make an upgrade (or a new feature on your next machine) Where the printer can change it's own nozzle. Would be great for clogs and jams during prints for the machine to fix itself and continue printing, but even better is that when combine with the MMU you basically get e3d's tool change machine but in a much cheaper package all the way around the board. Rather than buying 5 hot ends you buy 5 nozzles
Well, it would be mechanically complex. It wouldn't be easy to make it work reliably.
This video game me confidence to try a differnet nozzle on my mk3. Love it!
Nice idea I never consider using a larger nozzle, but after this I see a advantage to it in some prints ... not everything but something can be a advantage....thanks for sharing....Jack
I am just getting starting in the 3d printing world. I can't wait to try some different size nozzles for different projects. Thank you
We need preset settings for .8mm and 1mm nozzles, especially since the 1mm nozzle prints are demonstrated :(.
Great video!! I almost exclusively print with 1mm nozzles for the exact reasons mentioned
I might give it a go now too!
The max i have right now is a .8mm nozzle but for some reason with the mk3 i cannot get prints to even look remotely like the 1mm nozzle prints in the video and i am having a hard time tweaking the settings, would you mind sharing some tips and helping me out trying to utilize the .8mm nozzle?
That or i would not mind going down to a .6mm nozzle as i have that one too but wanted to upgrade to either .6 or .8mm exclusively as for the parts i print do not need to be of great detail.
Do you need a different extruder, heater to use a thicker filament?. I use a cocoon create i think it is an MK3 extruder.
great informational video, im a novice 3d printing enthusiast and i can definately say i will be buying and using other nozzle sizes after this video.
SOLD! Don't know that I'll go up to 1mm, but the other two look fantastic, and the saved print time for larger items which usually don't have that much fine detail is just phenomenal.
Ok, half way through the video i had to stop to tell you that this very well put together! Subscribed!
Thanks for the advice on this one! Really cut down print times on dungeon tiles in the last week!
Dungeons can take a ridiculus amount of time to print, glad it helped! :)
This is the kind of youtube videos as a guild for 3d printer - thanke you very much
I just did my first print with a 1mm nozzle in my ender 3, it came out prety good with minor adjustments to temperature, definetely a hugh improvement in print time that people is missing out!
Nice video ;) Anyway, I can't wait getting that PEI powder coated sheet shown in 1:39!
simple; each time you ask them its "2 months away"
it takes literally forever 😭
We are shipping them for over a week now :) So soon ™
From an Olympus owner, +1 just for including a micro-four-thirds camera instead of a Canon or Nikon :). But very informative. I have tried other nozzles, but I'll have to do so again...
The editing of this video is on point! So much credit! Well done :) graphics on point too! Yeet
Ahahahaaa... the Jimmy Bairnes part is hilarious. Thank you for your help about nozzles
This video have everything i was looking for and more information that I didn’t knew what will help me.
Perfect!
Just got my MK3 today and building it as we speak. So much fun. Can't wait to fire it up.
Really good explanation and comparison! Greets from Argentina!
with 1 mm nozzle you really need to taky many precautions when printing things like tools because walls around holes (for example nuts or screwdriver heads or whatever polygonal hollow shape u need to make) tend to end up wobbly and distorted because of the heavy filament use; even worse with ABS when long segments tend to contract violently warping corners in long edges
6:42 7:18 Looks amazing, I like with 1mm nozzle. looks minimalist.
It also looks like the 1mm makes transparent filaments even more clear! Perfect!
Also it reminds me of scanlines from the NES days 😁😏
This is such a good video. Extremely informational, and loved the presentation and examples. They were perfect. Thank you so much!
Well I changed both nozzles on our Raise 3D pro 2 at work yesterday and it was quite the task as you need to remove the hotend completely, support it while screwing the nozzles in and out, put them back in and recalibrate everything... But next time the 0.4mm nozzles are done I'll definitely think about putting a bigger one on one of the extruders.
We sometimes want to print fine and sometimes want to print large and fast, so why not try this.
Im sold, thank you for this information.
I've been designing some launchers for airsoft and this is gonna help a lot
I’m fairly new to all this, and this was wonderfully done. I have a better understanding on some of the output aspects I’d not known or had been able to figure out.
one of the most educational videos I've watched
pushed like a few times
I absolutely love the intro!
NK Cubed hi
man I'm shook, people keep recognizing me. This is weird.
ya
Im looking to buy a 3D printer and this video gives u decent information. Good job
Really great video! short and explains pro's and cons perfectly!
I have Microswiss hotend with 0.4/0.8/1.2mm SS nozzles. It's very true about filament disappearing with 1.2mm nozzles, but 1 perimeter and +20C over normal print temp, fan for cooling all that molten filament also slowing the print speed to %68 so the hotend can keep up. still prints about 1/3 the time of 0.4mm nozzle (still needs tuning).
Great video, perfectly show cases the advantages and disadvantages of different nozzle sizes. I have a 0.3 and 0.5mm nozzle, but haven't tried them out.
I'm definitely going to try to reprint my last project in a larger nozzle. Thank you for the detailed comparison.
Can anyone tell me what filament it is at 4:54 for the dogs and other stuff? That gray with particles in it... looks absolutely awesome!
This was useful for me, thanks! I’m about to change the nozzle for the first time to a .06 curious to see what the results are.
Great video! Most of what I have printed requires very little detail so this would be perfect.
awesome video! thanks guys!
Can you please tell me which filament you are using at 7:14 ?? Really thanks!
starting of with video you got the best editor
Great timing, got my Mk3 (kit version) about a week ago. Fantastic printer but was already thinking about larger nozzels as with my old (very old and worn out) k8200 I mostly needed and printed custom brackets and cases for projects. It was quicker than the mk3 but a pain to use all the bed area. Ordering a new nozzle now. :)
You should mention the polish too. With ABS, you can easily vapor smooth your print with acetone. The layers will be much more difficult to notice, making bigger nozzles even more interesting.
The way to change a nozzle is first heat the hot end, as filament gets in the threads and locks them in place. Then when it is hot you can easily unscrew the nozzle, just don't burn your fingers. Putting a new nozzle in is easy.
I just wonder about the volumetric speed of the filament when using the 1mm nozzle. I noticed when printing at 120mm/s with .2 layers and a .4 nozzle that I was actually running into heating issues with PLA at 215 which in some cases only resulted in a slight color change but in others made it so the layers wouldn't adhere to each other.
PrusaSlicer 2.5 and newer versions have the Arachne perimeter generator which can vary the extrusion width when printing, so you should get better detail with a 0.4 than before.
nice video, congratulations. it was just what I was looking for, many examples, and you showed them well, down to the smallest details. Also good for how you edited the video. thank you !
As with so many things this video shows how Prusa raises the bar and sets new standards. Great video, marvelous production.
It would be wonderful to see some of these G-codes appear on Prusa weekly prints to get more people to use 0.25 and 0.60 nozzles^^
I ordered a 0.2 mm and 1 mm nozzles for my Ender 3 pro. The 1 mm is for the big simple items ( pen holders and other office accessories ) that have very little to no small details and the print time is slashed by at least 50%
Well done awesome content and put together beautifully. Starting out researching on 3d you've saved me hours of research .
New Sub thanks
every nozzle size has it's uses.. the 1mm diameter is perfect for creating large things that have very little detail.. and the smaller nozzle is good for small things with a lot of detail..
Had lots of fun printing with a 1.2mm volcano on a lulzbot we were given, it was a shame to waste it's big print volume with smaller stuff. Eating over 100g of filament an hour is fun, if expensive! :)
The i3 series does seem to work better with 1mm or under and suits them very well. Loverly machine.
Please release an official enclosure kit(Laser cut + 3d printed parts) that fits neatly and elegantly around your Mk3's!
Shouldn´t be more expensive - I´d assume the total amount of filament used for the product should be about the same, maybe marginally more. It´s only the relative consumption (Filament per hour) that increases as the print time goes down. Total cost actually go down, as you can calculate less machine time, i.e. less wear per print or more prints within a given lifespan of your printer :)
It's more a side effect of being able to print larger things quickly. If you have a machine that can eat a kilo of filament a day without a worry you end up going through more just as a result of printing more things. :)
However you do have the side effects of printing the same object somewhat heavier with these large layer heights due to the extra volume used in support material and your decreased overhang capabilities, so you tend to need more material.
Wow... good job. The quality of these videos is awesome.
Josef Ty vole ;) I’ll buy Prusa as my first 3D printer! All the best
I really liked the editing, good job, mates.
I'm currently experimenting with different nozzles on my ender 3 pro.. I've found that 0.5 is the sweet spot IMO, you can print fast with reasonable accuracy at .2mm layer height and if you want to really speed things up, you're able to go up to .4mm layer height and basically double the speed. I tried 0.8 and even 1mm nozzles but I found that a lot of the things I tried to print simply wouldn't work due to the line width limitations.
Yeah, also you typically need a much more powerful hotend to really get an advantage of 0.8mm+ nozzles.
0.5mm is a great choice.
- Mikolas
Awesome videos! You are going to be the best 3D printers made when not already and for shure when doing so awesome videos.
Super video, chválím tento přístup. Je to hodně poučné a nějaké věci sem ani nevěděl...
Great explanation with examples. Thank you very much! 👍👍👍
2:19 if you do them with the same layer height, yeah, but if you have a larger nozzle might as well do more layer height
Got a hardened nozzle, gonna give that a shot next for some GitD and Carbon Fiber materials. Once I'm familiar with swapping out the nozzle, I'll try a smaller nozzle size.
"Extremely fast printing 1mm"
In 2030 this will be slow as we think of a pentium 233mhz
I'd like to see full carbon fiber print head so light and stiff it can just whiz through the air so fast that even nozzle fan can be discarded making it even lighter.
233 was 4thousand dollars back then
@@DjZorlag that's a very cool concept 👍
@@isaaclyonsf1 CoreXY for minimum moving weight, strong bowden extruder, Smaller buildspace so that all moving axes are shorter and thus light, thin aluminium fins with larger gaps for coldend (air flows without the fan), hotend with minimum size heatblock, titanium throat between hot and coldend to insulate as well as possible, part cooling if needed is attached to the frame outside the moving parts.
Especially with no bed heating, it should be possible for more easily flowing lower temperature materials like PLA!
@@DjZorlag very good 👍
So happy I found this video! Awesome job!!!!!!!!!!
Incredible video. Super informational and fantastic editing (and screamy cowboy!?)
There are two main issues preventing me from using a different nozzle with my printer. #1 - Compatibility; It's not obvious what nozzles are compatible with my printer, and the printer manufacturer does not offer any other nozzles on their website. #2 - Changing the nozzle; I once had to remove the stock nozzle on my printer to clear a jam. I followed all the instructions, but when I reattached the nozzle, the threaded portion sheared right off, forcing me to replace the entire hot-end (at a cost of $75) since the nozzle threads were stuck inside.
what the heck brand of 3d printer are you using? if its possible I would highly recommend frankenstiening a V6 style extruder to it I have a 3d printer from a defunct brand and I swapped the extruder and hotend for Wind BMG V6 and never looked back. Much better print speed and compatible with just about anything.
I have used 1 mm nozzles with great success. Your information about the point 6 mm nozzle is really interesting. I am definitely have to try that for some of my projects. Has always all of your videos are very informative thank you very much
Where did you buy the 1mm nozzle.
Wilko Vehreke I got them from amazon for about 10 usd
Thx for the reply. Do you remember the brand, because I can only find E3D clones.
Wilko Vehreke no it was almost a year ago
Average Joe's 3D okay. Thx for your efforts.
I still come back to this video although I don't have a have 3d printer.
It's so SATISFYING!!!!!
Easy to remove support isn't always a good thing. I had an asa print seperate an overhang from the support on it's own and curling upwards. Conclusion: technical/sturdy parts with bigger nozzles, small nozzles for fine details. Vast majority of users would profiteer from a 6. I ordered an 8
Great vid, I have a question about your filament in the background. I’m new to the 3D printing world, I just 3D printed my first print of that bunny off of mesh mixer it was fun. Anyways, I keep hearing that filament can get warped or absorb water and what not so go buy these $50+ containers that protect them from the elements, but I see you have a huge open wall full of filament in the open, how often does filament get ruined for being left out? Any input from anyone is appreciated thank you.
Wow awesome video, but that bust in 1:37👀 where I can find it?
Hi,
I am using a 0.8 nozzle in my and notice, that I have to set parameters like wall line for example to 0.85. it must be the same or higher. But what happen if I have Avery big object and this object has some details with a wall of 0.6 mm? Than I will have gaps. So I would have to set my wall line to 0.6 mm. Isn't it ?
Setting the extrusion width to a lower value than your nozzle diameter is not recommended. You will be essentially under-extruding in a weird way. We use this for supports to make them break away easier.
- Mikolas
Can I just say this video itself is beautifully well done? Wow? Clap?
Very cool! I still remember the first time I printed ABS with a 0.6mm prusanozzle... very cool!
I recomend using tree supports for detailed prints just like the goblin he printed, it makes it easier to remove supports, good luck!!
I wish I could, but I only use Prusa Slicer which doesn’t appear to have that. And I don’t think it’s worth learning a whole new slicer just for different supports.
Prusa, for whatever reason, will not add tree supports to Prusaslicer.
A tutorial on how to set the slicer will be helpful. I changed to a 0.25 nozzle a few weeks ago and even though I set this on the slicer, print density remained unchanged. I could not use the resulting model and support was unable to help me. Please follow this up with a settings tutorial?
Fantastic comparison Dude! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Would be interesting to hear what settings change if you in or decrease the nozzle diameter. I recently got a 0.8 mm nozzle and I still have troubles with holes, oozing and stringing.
Me too, just got the mk 3 a few days ago, upgraded to an .8mm nozzle and having the same issues, were you able to tweak the settings and fix it because i am still doing so
Alex Brensike congrats for your mk3 great choise 👍. I wasnt able to fix it totally but i could reduce the issues with a longer retraction distance(~8-14mm), a much slower retraction speed(~1-3mm/s) and a slight higher flowrate(1-5%). Play around with these settings and let me know if you were successful ✌
Where do you change the flowrate in Slic3r?
I’m getting the Prusa Mini as my first printer, was going to get an Ender but the Prusa seems more reliable and better built.
Omg I love the black filament with the particles in it. How is that one called and where can I get this? :)
Prusament Galaxy Black :)
shop.prusa3d.com/en/prusament/711-prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg.html
@@Prusa3D Thank you! Will defenetly try out that Filament
Great video! With all the graphics and comparisons！
How does max volumetric flow rate scale up with larger diameter nozzle? For example 2.5mm^3/s for FLEX filament on 0.4mm, could it be scaled up to 3.75mm^3/s or even 5.625mm^3/s with 0.6mm nozzle? I image at least with flex there is a limit because of jamming the filament before the nozzle.