Troubleshooting 3d Printing Problems
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 เม.ย. 2024
- Over the last two years, my viewers have often struggled with the 3d Printing problems discussed in this video. If you are new to 3d Printing or even if you have years of experience this video is worth your time. The topics covered include:
00:00 Intro
02:10 Print Bed Leveling
05:19 Print Bed Adhesion
06:05 The Most Common Slicer Problem
07:52 Slow Down You 3d Prints
09:17 Speeding Up Your 3d Prints
10:23 Bowden vs Direct Extruders
12:10 Hidden 3d Printing Slicer Settings
17:26 Extruder Clicking
18:34 3d Printing Filament Challenges
18:57 Hot End Problems
20:21 Bowden Tube Basics
21:33 Clearing Clogged 3d Printer Nozzles
Here are some additional videos on the channel that related to the topics covered:
Bed Leveling Basics
• Leveling the Bed of Yo...
Added Assisted Bed Leveling to Any 3d Printer
• How To Add Assisted Be...
Build Plate Options
• 3d Printing Build Plat...
Advanced Slicer Settings for Better Prints
• 3d Printing Slicer Set...
Using Supports in Cura
• 3d Printing Cura 4.X C...
3d Printer Calibration
• 3d Printer Calibration...
3d Printer Hot End Disassembly and Explained
• 3d Printer Hotend Disa...
Fixing String with Cura
• 3d Printing without St...
Thanks for watching. Remember to head over to forum.drvax.com to discuss your 3d printing experiences.
A copy of all of the slides listed in this video is available in the registered user's section of forum.drvax.com.
Let's continue to learn together. Irv
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These are some of the tools I use for 3d printing day-to-day:
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I have reviewed or used the following 3d printer upgrades:
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Here are the 3d printer filaments I use to evaluate prints, software, and techniques:
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I will be covering basic electronics and software in future MakeWithTech segments and here are the products I am using:
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Replace me with the text you want to insert... . - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
this man has helped me with everything related to 3d printing that i needed to know in just 2 hours. he is the messiah
Happy I was able to help.
I can listen hours to you, speaking so clear, thank you!
Thanks. I try to be clear and speak at a rate some people find is too slow. But for my viewers, it seems to work.
Lots of good tips, especially about trying to speed up prints. I would rather have a good print succeed than a fast failure
I agree 100%. However, waiting for prints is no fun.
Dr.Vax...you are probably the most positive person in the 3D comunity! Love your attitude!
I try. It is easy I love what I am doing. I play with tech stuff I enjoy and then teach people what I learn. The perfect retirement job.
This gentleman is as clear as day in his explanations. Nice to see someone that can actually communicate information without making a topic totally confused and unusable. Keep up the good work DrVax, there are I am sure a lot of PPL that you have given a lot of clarity about 3D printing.
Great philosophy Doc. I've really been digging deep into my creative side making things. Welding, CNC plasma, and of course 3D printing. These are all new hobbies for me and have done wonders for my anger management. The whole world just disappears when I'm creating things.
Very good quality content! (well structured / documented / explained). Congratulations!
Thank you. As the other guy said you are are the messiah of 3D printing! 😂. You have helped me with so many different issues with starting my 3D printing journey. I wish my professors at college were as informative and engaging as you!
I love your videos, your enthusiasm brings me joy! thank you.
Hugely helpful and beautifully explained. Many thanks indeed!
Excellent video!! Thank you so much!
Trying to use some 3D printers my company has, but that have been "out of commission" for a while, so no idea on nozzle size, everything needs a *heavy* cleanup, etc, and the videos here on TH-cam are making a huge difference, yours very included!
Always great tips and tricks. I learn something (and often several) new every time. Thank You!
Happy to help!
That was a very useful video. Thank you for your time and for the interesting and detailed information.
Thank you for such an excellent Library of 3d printing.
You are a good educator and I like your style. Thanks.
Hi Ivr I love the way you manage to break it down and make things simple. We really are learning something together
Thanks.
excellent opening statement I loved it. It's so true.
Thanks for your virtuoso tips on 3D printing, as ever,
Shalom
Chris
Thanks
Love your enthusiasm, Dr. That's the kind of infection we need...
Super helpful!
As usual a very good informative video. Thanks
Very appreciate, well explained!
this video made me subscribe and like!! i totally agree with you, making things happen rather threw 3d printing or CNC machining. or any OTHER building technique... and bring joy to people.. God knows how many articulated octopi i have given to coworkers and they have ALWAYS enjoyed them!! its great to bring smiles to people.. 3d printing helped me make that happen, and its vireos like yours that makes people like me MAKE that happen.. so thank you!... keep doing what you do!
Like no 48.
Thank you again for a very informative video.
Good reminders as usual...be well!
Thank you kindly!
GREAT VIDEO! Thanks...
Thanks again. This week is my 1 year anniversary of 3d printing. Thanks for all your hard work. I have 2 creality printers and am thinking of buying a pruca mini. What do you think? Be safe. Glad to see your feeling better.
Fantastic video! It's too bad that I can only hit the Like button once. Thanks for all your videos.
great video thanks
Excellent
Also clear a stubborn block with nylon and a cold pull. Heat up, insert nylon at a hot temp, turn off machine and let it cool down and pull out and check to see if it pulls out the blocked material. Repeat till it is only nylon coming out.
Thanks for the info! I have never been a big fan of cold pulls. Seems a bit brute force to me but this technique has been recommended for years.
I got a Monoprice MP10, and figured out how to use it on my own; free in an office move. I had a failure with black filament one day, and got bad prints for a full week. I finally took apart the hot-end, and realized that it's not actually black. I turned the heat all the way off and melted off what I had assumed was a legitimate part. Yields went from 10% to 95%.
Bed adhesive... Probably already been stated, but might benefit from mentioning again. Elmer's School glue stick. Get the huge sticks/tubes (it just lays down more product faster, I'm lazy that way. Cheapest stuff on the planet & it cleans up fast with water. Gotta love it. Just make sure it dries on the platter before you start printing.
Another great video from my 3d printer rabbi.
Thanks again!
I've been using loctite spray adhesive.
It gets tacky when warm so I can release my prints easily when the bed is warm. It also stays for a few prints before I have to reapply. I also have a mirror made bed
man, you're the best
You have a great channel, I am a big fan of yours. please adjust sound compression better.
It's a really awesome and more patience-based explanation sir regarding the basics of a 3D printing process. I am from India, recently joined as a research scholar in this ADDITIVE MANUFACTURING field, and started to work on POLYMER-based problems and their technology Pros and Cons on behalf of my project work. Please can you help me with the recent developments of POLYMER-based 3D printing technology. Thank You, sir.
Thanks for all the videos. I have an ender 3 v2 and am new to this . Recently it's started to cause bubbling on layers after the first one. The first layer is perfect but on the next layers it produces large bubbles(quarter inch and elongated). I've tried raising temp of hotend and raising and lowering z offset with no improvement. I've also tried different color filament(Inland). I would appreciate any suggestions. thanks
I am a teacher of chemistry and physics at a conceptual level at a community college. I am relatively new to 3D printing. I have access to a CR-10 at work, a CR-10 Smart (not so smart) at home, and recently an Ender 2 Pro at work. Dr. Vax, I want to express my appreciation for your method. If I may ask, where does the phrase "let's learn something together" come from? I keep coming back to your channel when I have an issue, and I find the answer. I've graduated to editing gcode by hand at times, and using PLA, ABS, PETG. Thank you for your videos.
Im a machinist and an engineer. You cant pay for the love and satisfaction of making something usefull.
I agree.
hey thanks, greetings from indonesia.
awsome!
Hello Irv, I am about to make a purchase of a 3d printer. Looking at both the ender 3 v2 and the Anet ET5X. I have done a lot of research already, but was hoping for some first hand review of the two systems, just general..... ender 3 vs Anet. The big plus I can see from each is, the ender has a huge community so support won't be an issue!, where the Anet has dual z axis screws, which is impressive!.......so really just need to get some further info and get something that will toss me off the side of the wire I am treading right now.
love you man :)
I love you man.
I agree with You that applied creativity gives satisfaction, but nothing is more frustrating than a not working 3D Printer. I've bought a HE3D EI3 printer years ago and it never worked properly. Cura was never able to identify the COM11 USB port for working. Pronterface was able to move the hotend in to the desired direction and extrude material, but never able to print anything, due to the fact that it never recognizes the dimensions of the bed and remained all the time at X=0 Y=0 point. Repetier generated Marlin files, but without using the MKS Base V1.5 board and the cooling fan never worked at the right connection. The new Marlin 2.0 has so many examples, but none of them suits to my printer. Tevo Tornado has such a MKS Base V1.5 board, but I don't know precisely the differences between him and my printer. I've watched hundreds of TH-cam videos, but none of them showed how to put it at work in order to print anything properly. Only frustration and illusions overall.
I feel your pain. I have learned to check online forums, discussion groups, and support areas on the Internet before purchasing any new technology to ensure I have access to critical information.
In addition, I have found USB connections to 3d printers are at best unreliable with many devices and start with any new printer by using removable media, for example, an sd card. Then when I have everything working the way I expect I play around with either Octoprint or a direct USB to computer connection.
In fact, I will be discussing this in an upcoming video.
Are these slide panels available to down load? I would love to print them out for a quick reference guide. I used autodesk and solid works for years and I am getting into 3d printing as a hobby since retiring. Thanks
for some reason my 3d prints are coming out with brittle build. Im using Glow in the dark PLA filament that is at 1.75mm. I leveled out the bed, made sure the heat nozzle end was given a small tiny gap to so to print the filament on the bed. I think it could be under-extrusion or it could be something else. The prints for some reason have pores/holes here and there.
Thanks, did you work at DEC?
Hello NJ here I brought a cr20 pro 3d printer . Im having trouble calibrating it do you do virtual teaching
Hi Doc
Can you help me on this.
When I start to print on my Ender 3 pro I constantly get a click on the stepper motor that's feeding the filament through. Its as if it pushing it faster than it can melt. I have tried these things. Put nozzle temp to 230 and tried lowering. There seems to be a slight spluttering on the first layers. I have also followed the tutorial on extruder and that was done
Finally I understand what jerk is, thanks!
Very useful tips - but I do have an issue not covered, maybe someone can advise:
I have a Sovol SV01 (first printer, direct drive extruder, with BLTouch and mesh levelling upgrades). I am using PLA at 190C, 0.8mm retraction. It works fine apart from one thing:
At startup, it heats up, then does a 3 point bed level check, prints two starter lines on the LHS to get everything flowing, then starts the print with the skirt / brim or whatever.
During the heat up and 3 point level check, some filament gets extruded, and the usual result is that by the time it is moving to the skirt there is a small blob of extruded filament on the nozzle. Sometimes this ends up in the print, the nozzle then hits it, a motor misses a step, and there can be a layer offset.
The reason underlying it is the 'early extrusion'. I have never managed to stop this.
What I do in practice is watch the start process carefully, and if I see a blob / stringy bit, I carefully pull it away from the nozzle before it can do damage to the print. This works, but I cannot help feeling I am attacking the symptom, not the real problem?
You may find it helpful to better understand the start of print gcode used by your slicer. A bit of a blob at the beginning of a print is a common issue. The lines printed to get the filament flowing are part of an effort to reduce this. You might further reduce this by adding additional lines, then retracting before you travel to the print.
A great place to discuss this is at the DrVax forum located at forum.drvax.com.
@@MakeWithTech Ok, thanks.
What about cold pulls? Shouldn't those be mentioned in the section on clearing nozzles?
Can you do a review on the Lerdge-X board?
I am not familiar with that board. Full controller replacements are probably a bit too advanced for many of my viewers, but I will take a look.
@@MakeWithTech its really easy to install. And everything is done on the screen. Its much easier with the ender 3 but I unfortunately got a ender 5. But I ask you because your the expert. I love your videos and you explain everything perfectly. And they are super clear.
Hi Dr. Vax love your vids but I have a problem, I use simplify3d to print with and get really clean prints until I add supports then it strings like crazy any advice what settings I need to play with to get rid of this stringing problem?
Try increasing retraction and lowering the temperature.
Wow that was fast thanks for the suggestions I’ll give them a try
Hello DrVax, I and many others would like you to explain how to make a certain thing in FreeCad. I would like to send you a sample photo. Where could I send it to you?
Thank you for your great videos...
Dennis G.
I'm pretty new to 3D printing and I've had trouble with a clogged nozzle over the last few weeks. It turns out that the problem was the Ender 3 Pro bowden tube. Yes, it was all the way down. For some reason the tube was melting and deforming. And we're talking about a temperature range of 210°C to 220°C here, nothing unusually high. For some reason it still was melting and then formed a block inside the nozzle. I've solved it by buying Capricorn style PTFE tubing and then replaced the part that goes into the hotend with that. I've kept the rest of the way stock bowden tubing and now that issue seems to be solved. The new tubing is supposed to be able to tolerate higher temperatures (up to 300°C) which means that it should not melt at 220°C.
BTW. another way of cleaning a really persistent clog in the hotend itself: take off the nozzle and then run the full length of your bowden tube through your "Ender style" hotend while it's at temperature. I had to do that because there was molten bowden tubing smeared all over the inner walls of the hotend. Looked like S'mores in there
Sound to me like your original tube wasn't made of PTFE (Teflon) like it was supposed to be. Counterfeit part got through QA perhaps? That should be covered under warranty, but if you buy directly from China that might be realistic sadly.
EDIT: Another option is that your thermocouple is bad and reports too low a temperature, which could be dangerous. Consider checking the temperature with an independent source. If that is not feasible at least sanity check it: does the manufacturer recommend temperature for your filaments work as expected?
@@VorpalGun yeah, it's possible. And maybe they'd replace the tubing - but 2m of that Capricorn tubing was 15 bucks so it doesn't really matter. I've used maybe 3 to 4 cm of it and now everything works really smoothly again. Unfortunately I don't have any thermometer that works for the required temperature range so I can't really check atm. Prints look great though and if this really was running way too hot I guess they didn't because that'd drastically exceed the temperature my PLA is supposed to be printed at. I normally print at 210°C to 220°C, the tubing should(!) withstand 260°C
I do have a bunch of spare thermistors incoming, though, and maybe I'll try one of those to see if I get similar readings.
And frankly, I'm glad that stuff like this happens. I learn a lot about the technology and how stuff works while debugging and fixing this stuff. As it's a hobby and I don't really _need_ the printer to be available all the time I actually enjoy prodding around
@@saschaschneider6355 I hate to break it to ya bud bud, but that's not the PTFE Tubing and was clearly molten / filament that in some way shape or form escaped from the intended filament guide path set forth by the PTFE/Teflon tubing and caused a clog initially due to the none existent presence of proper cooling of the hot-end. You won't be melting any PTFE tubing with an Ender 3 anytime soon unless you had a 50 watt heater and had no cooling whatsoever. Even bad quality Teflon tubing won't melt even at 285C and beyond... Plus before it would ever come close to melting you would have a serious accumulation of OFF-gassing and smoke emitting from your hot-end/printer putting you into a panic and ultimately a very dangerous / toxic space due to the now deadly gass being let off into thew air by the degrading PTFE...
@@yourtubernoob I hate to break it to ya bud, but opening like that makes you sound like a condescending prick. And it was NOT "clearly filament", because, it was a white, gooey substance while I had printed with red and blue filament. It also covered the whole length of the metal tube inside the hotend, which means that it would have had to creep up all the way between the tubing and the metal. Sounds pretty unlikely to me. Also the end of the tubing that was inside the hotend was visibly damaged to a point where I had to cut it off.
But you make a good point about degrading PTFE and the temperatures needed. Then maybe the tubing is not PTFE but some other white material that has a lower melting point. Because melt it did. That would explain why I had filament get stuck in it that was slightly thicker than 1.75mm (1.83) but still below the inner diameter of regular stock tubing (2mm). It was stuck and I had to use pliers(!) to get it out, because I had to pull on it pretty hard. So maybe it simply is faulty, non-PTFE tubing that's not following the specs.
I don't know for sure. What I do know for sure is that the end of the tubing, that was in the hot-end, had degraded pretty severely in merely a few weeks. What I do know is that it left a coating of a similar substance and colour (unlike the filament I've used) on the inside of the hot-end's metal tube. What I do know is that that same substance ran down and clogged the nozzle more than once. I know because it was white, unlike my filament, it also had more of a goey, marshmellow-y consistency. What I do know is that the tubing had become thinner and less smooth and less shiny on the outside, where it had touched the metal. I also have my doubt that there's enough pressure in the system to force leaked filament up between the tubing and the hot-end for the whole length. Even with a clogged nozzle that seems unlikely.
Anyway, I've got a few meters of regular, non Capricorn PTFE tubing coming my way soon. Once it's here I'm going to compare that to the tubing that came with my Ender to see if there's a discernible difference in properties, like melting point, inner diameter and so on.
Dr Vax I really need your help I'm about to lose my mind and coming to the end of patience with my ender 3 v2
What’s your opinion on the mod where you put a length of boden tube cut to the length of the extruded with a washer on top to compress the Biden tube a bit. This is suppose to boden tube planted to the nozzle.
Interesting idea. Had not heard of this before. This might be a very good idea for ANET ET4 users. The bowden tube on the ET4 is only 3.8mm OD while most Bowden tubes for 1.75mm printers are 4mm OD. This means you cannot replace the factory supplied Bowden tube easier. I have thought about using a short segment of ANET tubing inside the hot end connected to a traditional Bowden tube on the outside.
I've just done that because the bowden tubing started to melt and clogged up my hotend. Works like a charm. I've used capricorn style tubing because it's more heat resistant and I still like the "regular" tubing for the rest of the distance because of its slightly wider inner diameter. Inside the hotend it doesn't matter that much because the filament is getting heated up which makes it more pliable
Why does my 3 d printer just stop when printing an object?
Why does my 3 d printer just stop in the middle of printing?
👍👍😎👍👍
Get rid of the couplers. Use compression rings instead. Gets you to the same position every time
Interesting idea. Do you have a link for a source for compression rings?
You will have to drill out the center with a 4mm drill in order to fred the bowden tube through
There are a few of these videos around that talk about diagnosing a problem with a probable solution. But as there can be multiple causes for what looks, to a novice, a very similar problem, I'd love to see a series of videos that go the other way. That explain what happens to your prints when you change something. You could call them things like: 'How to Goldilocks your 3D Printer: Belt Tension' and show what happens with too much, too little, and then just right. There's a good video called 'This is Y' by Tech2C ( th-cam.com/video/AKTvykTPjQw/w-d-xo.html ) that pretty much does this about gantry weight on a coreXY, and acceleration settings, but unfortunately he doesn't talk about accelerations settings that are as low as my closed source firmware restricts me to, which is 100mm/s^2. He only talks about as low as 500mm/s^2.
Good idea. I will give it some thought for future videos. You might like this video which does a bit of that.
th-cam.com/video/UKEUBeeIUqM/w-d-xo.html
Plumb is different than level.
If I try to print that vase even with poor quality it would take me 50 hours I have a cr10 brand new what the hell am I doing wrong? I'm using the creality slicer which is basically cura
Example I'm printing right now a little tray for a specific purpose it's 152 cm in diameter and it has a tin hmmm walls all the way around so it's basically a little circle with wall around it picture making a 8 millimeters high and then carving out with a shell command I'm leaving to mm everywhere that's all I'm Printing and it wants to take 10 hours? And a shity print on top of everything what the hell am I doing wrong
You need to select "vase" mode. I do not use the Creality slicer but it might also be called "Spiralize Outer Contour".
@@MakeWithTech thank you for the reply sir. What slicer should I be using I don't care if I have to spend money on it! It's ridiculous if I make a bottle cap and takes 3 hours this normal? I mean there's some very useful things that I print but they take forever. I know it's a slow process for the most part but I see can people complaining that this or that model took them five hours to print and if I tried to print that same model it would take me 3 days. I just cannot understand what I'm doing wrong. All the models I'm talking about are very very simple designs
@@MakeWithTech in my example above I just now noticed that voice recognition made it impossible to discern what I was saying. Basically the model that I'm trying to print just picture the lid from a coffee can it's basically that just a little smaller it's a component for a separate project so it has to be 152 mm in diameter. It's basically a 2 millimeter thick coffee can lid and no matter how I tweet the settings its showing 13 to 50 hours
I'm about ready to sell my printer, if this is normal then the hobby itself is useless to me for rapid prototyping. I mean I literally would need five or six printers to make it worth what I'm doing
@@MakeWithTech i officially do not use that creality version of cura any longer either. I loaded up cura and did what you had suggested. The print took 4 hours and was the most beautiful finish I have ever done.
Thank you very much for the tip
Remember speed kills
Industry is the enemy of melancholy!
Agree. Keep busy, keep sane.
A related concept, sometimes attributed to Thomas Edison: "Genius is one percent inspiration and ninety-nine percent perspiration".
Overall I am a big fan of hard work, which is often the most fun once you get yourself up off the couch.
Part of my goal with DrVax is to build a community of folks that teach other folks how to make stuff themselves for the joy of making things.
Thanks for your comment.
Bigtree Tech SKR 1.4 Turbo G29 Level fails to work 3D printer works other wise
Interesting. Are you sure you have the most recent firmware. I do not have one but many people like this control board.
@@MakeWithTech Marlin-bugfix-2.0.x using Visual Studio for a Creality Ender 5 Plus using BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo
everything works except G29