HOW MUCH abrasive filaments damage your nozzle!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 พ.ค. 2019
- In this video we'll investigate how 3D printers nozzles wear and how print-quality is affected by that.
I've used brass nozzles with Glow in the Dark and Carbon Fiber filament to find out how and where they wear and what effect that has on print quality. I've also milled open a couple of nozzles to see how they look from the inside.
Reddit thread about Glow in the Dark filament: / glow_filament_the_muse...
Carbide end mills (aff): www.banggood.com/custlink/3KG...
Genuine E3D nozzles: e3d-online.com/nozzles-for-3d...
Horribly cheap nozzles (don't buy them! (aff)): s.click.aliexpress.com/e/vsydbW0
Good value for money TrangleLabs nozzles (aff): s.click.aliexpress.com/e/cbEdJ6HS
Panasonic Macro Lense (aff): geni.us/CYWX
Panasonic GX80/GX85 that I use it on (aff): geni.us/0NJvs
GoCNC Next3D CNC Router: gocnc.de/shop/en
Das Filament GitD PLA: www.dasfilament.de/filament-s...
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Noice !
I think premiere is a touch of hype ! I like it !
How to make such a shape ? DMG Mori 5-Achs Bearbeitungszentrum
For my (very may be clone e3d), i just pull up ''on cold'' 0.6mm nozzle fillamen without problems, for now its seems normal in 0.01+/- mitotoyo caliper
The spiral pattern is caused by a dull drill with way to much feed. The spirals of the drill try to get rid of the pressure and clog on the walls.
thank you CNC Kitchen for still producing 3d printing videos that are accurate. The others have given up. Watch you soon
Insane production quality, better than ever - so much time and effort and it really shows!
hello
giri nevass hi
@CNC Kitchen, that's my blownout nozzle at 10:34! I got that after printing approximately 1 spool of inland glow in the dark PLA. Thank you for showcasing it in this video, it was a hard lesson learned for a new 3d printing user.
The spiral pattern is achieved by plunging a dull bit into the brass with a lot of force. They make a tool to cut out the inside profile then use it until it breaks. Probably the first 1,000 nozzle's bore is totally straight, by nozzle 2,000 though you have the spiral pattern and somewhere after that the bit breaks and they make a new one.
So they just jam a drill bit in there?
@@cherrify3498 sounds like it
this^^^^^^^^
It's so simple it's strange no one understands
It's not a great application for a form drill because there is a high ratio of diameter for the tip diameter and the body diameter of the nozzle and also because the tip diameter is so small.
For a 1.75mm filament bore and 0.4mm outlet dia, one would have worse than a 4x ratio between the smallest diameter and the largest diameter on the form drill. This means that you'd really like to be drilling that tiny 0.4mm diameter a much larger RPM than you can run the 1.75mm diameter at because you'll exceed cutting surface speed limits on the larger diameter.
This means that you have to plod ahead at 1/4 of your best drilling rate for that tiny 0.4mm end which is going to be doing a terribly ugly drilling job for the entire length of the nozzle because it's stuck to the end of the 1.75mm body dia. It would be far faster to blitz the back end of the hole with the 1.75mm dia for nearly the whole nozzle length, then go in with a 0.4mm to peck out the last bit of length at the end.
Using a second tool position to have separate 1.75mm and 0.4mm diameters will be far faster with better quality drilling and much lower breakage of tools, not to mention that standard jobber drills are way cheaper than making a form drill.
I think the spiral pattern is being caused by a cheap jobber drill being pushed too far past their sharpening regimen. There's no really good excuse because clean holes in brass with jobber drills is very easy with CNC. The level of tool wear management necessary really isn't high.
I imagine that drill runout will also cause a spiral. An extremely true and concentric chuck is needed for highly accurate drilling at such small diameters.
Freaking brilliant video! Very impressed by the quality of production and the solid engineering content.
The undulating helical pattern is a likely result of a worn or chipped drill bit and pushing the feedrates on the lathe too hard. Also if you don't have your drill running dead centre it will walk and cause run-out. Glad to see ours were straight and shiny as they should be, but agree that it's not really a contributor to stringing.
You're dead right that the most important part of the nozzle is the orifice to tip flat transition. We've put a lot of time into ensuring that corner is 'just so'. The internal cone angle is also a surprisingly large contributor to the ooze and clean sharp extrusion, it gets you the more laminar flow you postulate and lowers pressure needs. Combine those two and you get the rather dramatic difference you saw in stringing.
I suspect but cannot prove that the excessive chamfer on the clone and worn nozzles also serves as a place where material will cling to and accumulate. This little annular 'pool' of very liquid material may serve as a source of material that will be entrained into a string. Retraction is going to be completely ineffective at controlling any buildup on this part of the nozzle.
I was going to say the spiral was from a blunt drill but it has been said in detail above so I'll shut up now. Thanks very much for the great videos @cnckitchen
I was going to say: this guy sounds really sure about his statements, then I saw your name.
Genghisnico13 the “our” referring to the e3d nozzle was my first clue - people sound sure of themselves in YT comment sections allllll the time ;)
I just want to add ontop of your fine explaination about the helical pattern.
-This is a great example why GPS tolerances (Geometric Product Specification) was invented, and specifically why it's important to have them specified when you make large orders produced out of China and the like. Not that it isn't necessary in all other countries though. :-)
Excessive feed rate, lack of pecking and worn tooling is the most likely causes, but materials like brass also have issues caused by their high thermal expansion. Materials do not heat evenly when drilling and tends to build up heat near the corners of the drill flutes during the machining process. Thus the materiel near the corners of the drill flutes is removed at a higher temperature so those areas expand more then the other areas of the cut. This leaves a smooth hole at the time of operation, but then when the materiel cools and constricts it leaves a helix or spiral shape that matches the drill feed rate. Brass and plastics it tends to become fairly prominent due to their high thermal expansion rates and high drill feed rates.
That spiral is from the drilling procedure at the factory. The tool is flexing as it's plunging in.
If the drill vibrates, it usually makes cones. Like an hourglass shape. The walls of hole look like melted, probably drill was overheated during the production and left that weird pattern?
25 year machinist .. that pattern happens when the drill geometry is shoddy, specifically the lead on the spiral or the point being off center slightly and your feed is way to high. Brass has a tendency to grab when using sharp tooling. A way to mitigate the grabbing is to flatten the cutting edge slightly on the perpendicular axis of the cut. This is probably the reason for the over powered feed so as to compensate for that flattened cutting edge.
@@swould333 I can confirm that, worked a lot with brass in the past, it likes short stubby cutting edges and the unevenly sharpened chinese 1.75mm drill bit is far from that. High speed vibrations + eccentric forces combined with resonance from the brass grabbing and you get forms you could not imagine can exist!
@@swould333 yep.
@@swould333 curious if the good nozzles are cut in three procedures and that's why they have good surface finish and geometry that clearly wasn't taken off a shotty twist drill.
The wobbly pattern of the passage through the cheap nozzle is from a warped drill bit.
They used a high rotation speed (probably with inadequate cooling fluid) and overheated the bit several times and they were using a high rate f driving the bit into the brass.
Its an effect I got when learning to use a home drill press.
F Huber it most likely isn’t cut for brass and was trying to pull the part as well which combined with being cooked and probably dull
Some more insights as to how the wobble might have occurred: The geometry of nozzles lends well to lathes (and by extension screw machines), where wobble of both the part and the drill can be more severe vs with a mill. It's also likely that the stock used to make the nozzles is at the max diameter of the part to minimize material waste, and that thinner material would also wobble more. As for feeds and speeds, the high machinability of brass allows very aggressive settings without significantly shortening tool life (and that's great for minimizing labor cost, but bad for part quality).
@@tronique5736 most probably machined from hex bar
Also I bet the is not exactly round, but slightly elliptical due to the same reasons. I’ve learned the hard way as a home gamer that drilled holes are always bigger and never round.
The cross-section of the genuine E3D nozzle really sold me on their products. Such amazing quality assurance; and it really shows why it's smart to dole out the little extra cash for it.
This guy... This guy right here is one of the absolute best things about TH-cam.
Stefan, deine Videos sind einfach oberklasse. Qualitativ hochwertig. Informativ. Gute Geschwindigkeit. Nie langweilig. Helfen mir jede Woche neu!
The chamfer on brand new (cheap) nozzles effectively increasing their diameter and hurting print quality is a very interesting discovery. Thanks Stefan, glad we have people like you in the community 👍
I think it’s worth noting though that those cheap nozzles are made by a very wide variety of manufacturers, and it may just be that the particular nozzles he tested were especially bad...
I have only cheap Chinese nozzles, a big variety box of standard CR10 style nozzles, as well as one V6 style I was sent by mistake, and about 6 volcano style I bought for my Sidewinder X1. I just double checked all of the volcano and the v6 nozzle as well as a random selection of the CR10 nozzles and not a single one had that chamfer. I even double checked under a microscope in case I just couldn’t see it with my naked eye.
I’m sure the internal bore of the nozzles is not as clean as genuine E3D nozzles, and there may be a difference in the internal angle, but at least it doesn’t appear that the no name brand nozzles all have that chamfer or that it’s even a common defect. He may have just received a defective batch or bought from a particularly bad manufacturer or I’m just extremely lucky...
He’s 100% correct that you’re taking a gamble not buying genuine, but given that the cost of a single E3D volcano nozzle is about the same all of my Chinese volcano nozzles combined, it may be worth the risk as you won’t lose much money if they turn out bad. Though of course I do appreciate supporting the original creators. Also for example there is a massive difference in quality between the heat breaks especially on knock off E3D extruders vs the real ones that I think makes them an obviously better buy even at the in increased cost (my sidewinder for example has a PTFE tuve all the way through the heartbreak which is an issue for high temp printing, so I’m planning to upgrade to an official E3D all metal titanium head break which is actually about the same price as some of their nozzles somehow even though it’s a more complex part).
Also it’s worth considering that I can buy the Chinese nozzles easily here in Colombia with local 1 day shipping, whereas to buy genuine E3D nozzles I would need to order from the US and import them, increasing the already higher cost due to reshipping and import taxes as well as significantly increasing the wait time to receive them if I need one quickly.
I’m still planning to buy a few genuine nozzles to use as a baseline comparison against my cheaper nozzles to see if I get increased print quality, but I don’t think it’s fair to test a single brand of Chinese nozzle and then imply that all Chinese nozzles are manufactured that way or have similar problems. Many of them are perfectly fine from what I can tell (including from my own print quality which is quite good using only these nozzles).
Anyway just my 2 cents.
The effort put into these videos is unbelievable
Hi pal!. I just bought my first printer and I'm soaking up information with a sponge (even though I could be your grandpa because of my age... I never tire of learning!), this report opened my eyes to many doubts I had and I think a spectacular job on your part, very serious and dedicated. This is the first video of yours I've seen and I've subscribed to the channel to see the rest. A pleasure to learn from people who really care about finding the important point of the problems. My congratulations, today, December 31, 2022, I send you a big greeting from the South of Argentina and I wish you a good year!
I found the section on glow in the dark filament really interesting! I had been printing a very large gift for my fiance and the nickel plated nozzle that I had been using started to show signs of damage. The filament would shoot off to the back and left no matter what filament I used. Just bought myself some steel nozzles because of it! Thank you for the great videos and keep it up!
in depth tests like this, saves us a lot of time and money before deciding. thanks so much.
Super interesting findings. I really appreciate these types of investigatory videos that you do.
Excellent video Stefan. I found this video very helpful. You put so much work into your high quality videos.
Really great video. I loved the close ups of the nozzle internals.
Excellent video as usual from the best 3DP channel on TH-cam. There's always good information to digest from the CNC Kitchen :-)
Looking forward to your Ruby nozzle review.
Awesome video. You're always concisely informative. I learn something new every time.
Stefan, great job, always look forward to your good engineering and scientific method. Danke.
I love these videos, but I'm now off to look for that CNC mill thing, wow!!
Chapeau bas. The amount of work in this video is overwhelming.
Incredible work as always, Stefan!
amazing round of tests once again! :)
One of your best videos ever!
I wish you had shows much more before and after shots and cuts though. Like you did with them mirrored for comparison but maybe split view instead so you line them both up and show each half from their respective nozzles.
Looking forward to your steel nozzle tests!
Now these are some interesting results! I am excited about what comes next. Great work! Thx!
Great video as always! Don’t forget to try a slice engineering vanadium nozzle in the abrasive resistant shoot out.
Impressive quality of this video: How you shot it, that you cut the nozzles in half, content-wise. Good job.
I don't yet have a 3D printer, but I really enjoy how much thought goes into these videos.
I’m really interested in a video testing the possibility of improving the print quality using a smaller nozzle.
Cool video! I always learn a lot from you. ❤
Brilliant. This video concludes everything you need to know about nozzles for 3d printing. I learned that brand / quality matters and that you must choose nozzle according to materials used. Thanks for the research! Great work
Nice science and nice video work! I also found it very interesting to see and learn about the geometric differences in cheap and high end nozzles 👍🏻 thanks
In my opinion, the E3D is superior in terms of stringing because of the 60deg angle of the convergent channel (instead of 90) as it will create less flow resistance, thus lowering the pressure buildup in the melt chamber. With a lower pressure accumulated in the chamber there is less viscoelastic flow (ooze) when you stop extrusing. Also the sharp transition can help too as it will cut the strings and avoid pulling out filament. Great video as always, and excellent scientific approach to real world problems.
Ps: funny enough I just noticed that Sanjay just made a similar comment.. Seems that physics is the same for all of us ;-)
I love it when we get the actual science, and in a form where we can see it for ourselves!
Great video as always. Very nice to have your experiment results to enrich our knowledge. Thanks !
This was a good test, not something you'd submit to a journal but it produced useful information.
Thank you for this really interesting investigation!
I enjoy your attention to detail and you methodical approach to testing..
In a previous life I was a tool and cutter grinder in a mould shop. One tool I had to design and make was a D-drill for plastic injection nozzles. The interior bore ended in a 40° included angle hole. I assume this allowed for faster flow in the injection process. Materials for the nozzles were either beryllium copper or a tool steel. the nozzles also had a variety of exit holes, some on the ends and others at angles coming out on the sides of the tip.
James Crombie that's awesome!
I thought that angle was really interesting. I'm guessing E3D have tried all sorts of angles to get one that works best, but I'd be interested in results from even more acute angles.
Useful info, thanks.
I have a small lathe, tried making my own nozzles, they worked ok, but no better than the bought nozzles. The hand-made nozzles took a lot of time to make, and the materials are expensive.
A good compromise is to buy 0.2 or 0.3mm nozzles, and drill them out to the required size. I find 0.35mm is a good size for the kind of printing I mostly do. Carbide PCB drills are cheap, but it's easy to break them. I start by facing off a piece of scrap stock, drill and tap M6, and screw a nozzle on. I do this for each batch of nozzles to maintain concentricity. The drilling part is easy, as long as your tailstock is aligned correctly.
Wow! Ones again awesome tech analytical content. As a mechanical engineer I really appreciate your channel. I will never print a cheap nozzle from now on!
Honestly you are making the best 3d printing videos. Sau stark. Weiter so.
Thank you for the information. You helped solve why my prints were degrading and why I've been having an increase in stringing in my prints. Cheers.
Das Thema Verschleiß von Düsen hat mich echt mal interessiert, da ich viel zu wenig darüber wusste und außerdem auch floureszierendes Filament verwende. Dein Video war optimal, danke!
Really informative! Thank you for your effort!
I cant wait for the Ruby video, been very curious about them.
I asked 3dpn a million times to make a video about this one topic . You really did a VERY good job putting as much thought into the tech as well as the science.
Happy to help.
Wow that was very informative didn't think of it in that way. Keep it up would love to see more on the subject
Thanks for your perfect test. Learned a lot of new things here.
Going to buy some E3D nozzles to compare against my el cheapo nozzles I have right now.
Klasse Video, sehr informativ. Großartig was du dir für Zeit für die ganzen Tests genommen hast!
Und was mich am meisten freut ist, dass dein Kanal sehr, sehr schnell so gewachsen ist :D Sauber!
Grüße, Sebastian
Vielen Dank!
I concur with your findings, it was interesting to see the 60 degree chamfer on the inside of the e3d nozzle verses the 90 of the in expensive nozzle. Custom tooling verses standard drill bits, that is significant.
Both angles point to an custom drill bit. (Which arn't expensive when you mass produce.) The default angle on a HSS drill bit is 118°. But there can be differences for hard and soft maqterial from 110° to 130°. Carbide drills normally use 140° tip angle.
Most spot drills have a 90 degree angle and are extremely rigid. Could be step one for E3D’s process...
You are correct. Machining bits can be 90 degrees.
That would make since.
With a finishing cut at 60
as always, scientific approach and useful info. Thank you.
Hi Stefan, I'm using probably the same ruby nozzle that you have in your ruby collection. It has a chromed copper body. I use it with a titanium heat brake (all metal) and a home-designed & milled copper heater block. The back pressure in the nozzle is greater (especially with CF-PEG) so I use a dual-drive geared extruder. With a bowden cable, in a Anycubic kossel linear plus. It took me a while to get good results again, but now it's spot on. I play around with linear-advance a bit and with normal PLA it's better not to use it (K-factor zero). Hope you're having fun with it and happy printing!
Excellent analysis with a surprising result. Thanks!
Another fine video. It was interesting to see E3D's earlier research on this topic when they introduced the hardened nozzle and had similar results but much-increased internal wear. I think they did many more hours of printing. I use a lot of XT CF20 with the hard nozzle and there is no wear detectable by eye but it does eat the silicone socks!
Great as always. I'm also happy to see I'm not the only one who cut away the bottom of the silicone sock.
These are actually the new silicone socks, the closed ones are now called "pro" socks.
@@CNCKitchen Funny, I don't know what's pro about that. I had to cut away a mm or two of the bottom of every sock so far.
Very nice tests. I have some glow-in-the-dark PLA from Velleman and it is definitely abrasive, I also noticed the nozzles being ‘sanded’ at the bottom after printing a lot of this material. The hole diameter seems to have slightly increased as well, although the only way I noticed this is that it gradually became easier to push a .4mm guitar string through the hole.
A larger sanded-off nozzle bottom does have an advantage in that it makes it easier to get nice smooth top surfaces, but a problem is that it dumps more heat into nearby already printed material, which makes for worse overhangs and also it has more of a tendency to drag along PETG because it is so sticky.
after the video i immediatly ordered an e3d nozzle. thanks!
There are so many interesting points in this video. It is really good to see the actual differences between the parts of different manufacturers. I've heard many TH-camrs talk about the poor quality of cheap Chinese parts, but you actually show the difference. It would be interesting to see the real world print quality difference between these, and examine why they may or may not be worth the extra cost. I would think that the quality of the print may also affect the overall structural quality of what you print as well. Basically how much does 3D-Printer part quality affect the output, and how much does it cost to mitigate the loss in quality.
Danke für das gute Video, sehr informativ! Respekt für die ganze Arbeit die du dir gemacht hast !
This is incredibly valuable information. Thanks so much for this video!
Great job! I love your videos! Thank you so much for all!
Keep up the good work, you have nice subject that are very clear!
Stefan@CNC Kitchen, and Stefan Gotteswinter. My favourite TH-cam subscriptions. So logical. So scientific.
You'll hit 100k subs soon, congrats Stefan!
*excited*
Very interesting and insightful. Thanks for what you're doing ! It's awesome
absolutely amazing Stefan! well done i think 100k will be achieved in a few hours perhaps
Thanks..look forward to seeing the rubi nozzel test.
^ This.
As always, great content with superb analysis. Have you gotten your hands on diamondback nozzles yet?
This guy has better English than most Americans and better production quality than a lot of big TH-camrs. Great job!
I wish there was a way to like the same video 1000 times. This guy definitely makes amazing videos.
great video...suggestion....take a worn nozzle and CNC a new flat extruder surface and see the difference in the benchy....
That's what I thought. And another option (which I'm going to try after fixing my printer) is to… Do the same with sandpaper.
@@JayOhm i have tried the sand paper but cant get it flat enough. Looks ok to the naked eye, but under a microscope you can see the rounded edges
My extruder just clogged today, perfect time to get a new one! Great job keep it up
late, but man, clogging is ussual, just clean it up! most extruders come with a needle to clean them... just dissasembly it, heat it a bit on a furnace and use the needle to remove the clog.
Thank you for your tests and experiments. Nice info to know :)
Sanjay Mortimer
's answer on the helical pattern seems unlikely.
The consistent helical pattern is more likely to come from a drill that is mounted on a bent lead-screw. This explains the consistency much better.
I have personally seen that helical pattern when printing on my makerbot cupcake with bent lead-screws. I immediately assumed that was the cause when I saw the cross section.
now i kinda want to see the new cloned Ruby (FYSETC also do a white sapphire nozzle [Sapphire is available in all colours asided frfom red, though red corundum is just a ruby so very close] that'd be fun)
This is the one 3D printing channel I keep learning valuable, practical printing information from even after a couple of years of experience. Keep up the good work!
Great subject to point out !
I believe that if you used an extremely strong tool (such as adjustable pliers) to tighten the nozzle it can easly deforms the inside of the nozzle and will only have a slight affect on the outside of the nozzle.
I would suggest to check it after tighting (with a strong tool) a brand new nozzle.
Now i finally know why i get strings...cheap nosel + lots of Glow in the Dark! Thank you for testing these things!
Fabulous research and video presentation. Thank you.
The spiral pattern happens when you drill a hole on a lathe but the tail stock is off center it makes the bit flex and wiggle as it rotates
Stefan,
Job well done, as always.
I print mainly with flexibles and CF nylon on the same Prusa i3 MK2s. Yes, two completely different materials, each with their own challenges.
I was having major extrusion issues and jams. I replaced the E3D hardened nozzle that I had run a few kilos of CF nylon through with a new E3D Nozzle X with no real change. I then looked at the heat break tube and saw some markings on the inside of it, so that got replaced. This improved my results a fair bit. I still had problems. I noticed inconsistent layer adhesion on the small parts that I print using Ninjateks Armadillo. There is a post that is 4mm diameter that when everything is right will not snap off. I print about twenty of the parts at a time and have maybe 4 - 5 that fail. I then looked at the Hobbed Pulley and noticed some wear. I didn't realize how much until I removed it and compared it with a new one. (See the photo in the attached link)
There are many aspects that can cause extrusion issues. If you use the "Cause and Effect" process the best method for solving the problem is to go back the where all was good.
photos.app.goo.gl/SDJUQd27NxsFrfXd9
photos.app.goo.gl/fLq8RsCXCE3vuNza7
I'm looking forward seeing you machine a tungsten nozzle 😆 Great video as always! I too have a brass nozzle and the wear was primarily on one side, the filament free extruded to one side too. I used a steel tweezers to clean the nozzle regularly, which probably did some damage too. The surface finish with a new steel with zinc coated e3d nozzle is significantly better. A new brass nozzle was going to be better too of course, compared to the damaged one. I'll try to machine the nozzle too, would be interesting.
great video Stefan very well done test.
Great video as always.. congrats on your 100k.
Thank you!
Excellent video, Stefan! Thank you!
Great test! Thanks for sharing!
Great job Stefan! I learned alot.
Your tests match mine. I found that nozzles wore in both hole diameter and height, but wore in height more signficantly.
Great video, Stefan! Tho I am more interested in the wear of Stainless Steel and Hardened Steel nozzles. Looking forward for those! Cheers!
I'm glad that you tested with clone nozzles. For as much as I might like E3D parts and prefer them, if I need a pack of .4's (sometimes you just know you'll be wrecking nozzles with wood), or a couple in each diameter between .2 and .6, it's usually the difference between $10 and $50. They aren't as good, but they'll usually get the job done, and it's good to know how long they'll handle that job. So thank you.
The odd spiral pattern is most likely caused by the stock being off-center when drilled. This causes the drill to wander, due to flexing, while drilling. I have seen similar behavior when milling a circle, using a bad collet that mis-aligns the tool. It can actually create a hole that is hourglass shaped in cross-section!
Also, unevenly sharpened drill bit does the job. Possibly they didn't even use center drill.
yeah no center drill would do it, i wonder boring it on our own would do any improvement
Another very interesting video Stefan.
I don't have a 3d printer at the moment because I can't open that can of worms at this point due to other priorities. However, I do plan to get one sometime next year. I still watch your videos because they answer many of the questions I ponder or answer questions i didn't even think about. I think when I do get a printer your videos will already have helped me better understand this process.
One thing I do wonder about you touched on in this video which is nozzle diameter - because I assume it is related to wall thickness. Some of the things I am considering printing will require thin wall thicknesses. I want to make fuselage type structures as lightly as possible - with and without bracing/infill.
So the questions i ask are - How small a nozzle diameter can you use? How thin can a cylinder's wall thickness be? What are the limits? I wonder if you can do a video which pushes the boundaries in that direction.
Many thanks.
Highly interesting content as usual. I just subbed to your Patreon :)
I would love to learn more about the wear of Plated nozzles like the ones made by Microswiss.
Thanks for your support!
I’m trying to learn about nozzle wear and then a WHOLE LTT episode over intel gold cpus pops up as an ad lmao. And it’s 1 of 2!!!!!!
Exactly.
The biggest problem of abrasive filaments appears not inside(hole diameter) but outside(hole length).
From my experiences, the most abrasive additive agent is "glass fiber", and not carbon fiber or metal particles.
Actually it can shorten stainless steel nozzles over 0.5mm within one reel(500g).
This means the nozzle diameter changes from 0.4mm to 2.0mm, or simply the nozzle has died out.
If diameter of the nozzle was changed at this moment, it is not so big of a deal.
I tried to use HSS_Co(used for cutting tool of stainless steel) nozzle for the glass fiber filament, but it does not work.
So currently I am using stainless steel nozzle once for small parts,
and flat top HSS_Co nozzle for large parts.
Love your channel bro!