Choosing the BEST Nozzle Size For Your 3D Printer!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 พ.ค. 2024
- A BIG thanks to @diamondbacknozzles by @ChampionXImprovingLives! Get your very own diamond-tipped nozzle at the link below, and use 05Musketeers at checkout for 5% off for the next 30 days!
www.diamondbacknozzles.com/
We’re getting down to the nitty-gritty of choosing the right nozzle! Whether you need a nozzle for speed or detail, we want to help you find the best one! Nozzle type matters too, so we’ll dive into the different types, such as the ChampionX DiamondBack nozzles and @E3DOnline Revo nozzles!
Links:
E3D Revo: e3d-online.com/products/revo-...
E3D Revo Nozzles: e3d-online.com/products/revo-...
Cards:
@MadeWithLayers's vid on .4mm nozzles: • 0.4mm nozzles just bec...
Types of Filament: • Choose The Best Type o...
Printing with a CHT Nozzle: • 11 Minute Benchy On A ...
Nailing down Z-Offset: • How to get PERFECT Fir...
E3D Obxidian review: • E3D's ObXidian REVO No...
0:00 Intro
1:01 Getting a smaller or bigger nozzle
2:42 Sponsor Segment: DiamondBack Nozzles
4:19 Choose the right nozzle for your filament
6:51 The problem with bigger nozzles
9:18 Materials that require specific nozzle sizes
13:07 Dealing with nozzles inside of slicers
13:46 Changing nozzles
15:18 Printing harder, faster
16:47 Outro
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Highflow Revo, we're on it Grant. Yes, we watch all your videos btw 👀.
Hi, thank you for exteending the subject!
(always it is space for improvements)
I am looking forward to see the update.
glad you enjoyed it!
Another nominative video. I have used everything from .25 to .8 and for the most part have settled on the .4. I am excited to get my Prusa XL and see how that works with the stock .6 - looks like a good system that they and E3D came up with.
I just love that I can adapt it to a v6 nozzle if I want!
Hey brother! Thanks for the great conversation today!! I'm loving these videos!
Thanks!
I still have a couple of the "3D maker engineering" Tungsten carbide nozzles, and they work very well on my MK3s. But I did order a .6 diamondback for my MK4 kit. (Whenever that shows up) and I also ordered a .6 Tungsten carbide as well. I hope that Prusa will start selling the heating blocks with the thermistor and heating cartridge in them for the Nextruder. That way I can just have different size nozzles ready to go, and store them up on the wall. But I haven't seen them available. Only the V6 nozzle adapter.
I have a couple of those too!
That would be really nice to see in the store, I will have to keep my eye out!
Another great video, Grant. We gotta crack the nut of increasing this channel's audience. I love your content, don't know how your subscriber count isn't higher.
Thanks! I wish we had the trick but I just dont know.. One of the big projects we wanted to do this year just got shot down by local laws so I am trying to find ways around it now lol
@@3DMusketeers Have you applied for a variance? Sometimes local laws are "bendable" if you ask nicely, and with the proper forms.
i need to look into it all, we will see....
For changing nozzles on a standard setup (like an E3D V6), the *absolute best* way I've found to hold the heat block is with the Knipex Pliers Wrench. The jaws are parallel and grip the block very well without causing damage. They're a bit expensive but worth every penny in my opinion.
yes, holding parallel is absolutely helpful!
👌 as a automotive technician I swear by those pliers i use them for honesty everything. The non marring is just hilarious good, even straightening creased metal panels,tight oil caps and not even a mark.
Good timing for this video. I enjoyed the in-depth topic of selecting nozzles. Since Prusa has come out with two printers (MK4&XL) with the new longer nozzles and tubes I would like to see someone explain the best nozzle combinations to use and why.
All I see are brass nozzles for sale and haven't seen some of the hardened nozzle options yet for these new printers.
For Prusa, get the v6 adapter and do not look back IMO
Between the Revo and the MK4 (soon TM) I will never have to mess with hot nozzle changes again.
woooo!!!!!!
Going to get some of those diamondback nozzle. Thanks for all the info. Also tell your cat. Ps ps psss
nice! I will!
I know I keep saying, but only because you never mention it. I love my Tungsten Carbide (WC) nozzles. But something I recently learned that I did by accident that helps me with my success. Apparently WC nozzles will loosen up over several heat/cool cycles in an aluminum heater block. When I got my WC nozzles I had already upgraded my heater block to plated copper. WC nozzles and a plated copper heater block print my filaments at the same temperature as my brass nozzle Prusa presets. Plated copper are the ideal heater blocks for WC nozzles.
We will be talking about it when we do a nozzle changing video! :)
Yea, don't use wc nozzles in alu blocks, seen this issue before from other people too.
thermal expansion sucksssssssssss
@@3DMusketeers 100%
I actually did end up running a temp tower for my purple PETG. I even verified the temps changed throughout the print. I saw virtually no difference between temps. So I just left it at defaults.
gotta love it! Prusa did a good job at tuning stock profiles to be bulletproof. Not fast, but bulletproof.
When i started to change my nozzles per print changed my printing experience
yeah a Revo makes that much easier
Heey there, great video.. just a question, do you have any idea, what nozzle that would be best to use in a FLSUN V400 with print speed at 200 mm and in 0.4 nozzle??? and we are just printing in PLA. thanks again for some great videos.
define BEST nozzle. Because BEST may not be in your budget..
I'm tempted to get tungsten tip for less, but diamond is really alluring. I wonder how tungsten and Ruby stack up against the diamond tip
I have both, but do note we are now sponsored by diamondback. I'm not sure if we were in that video..
I like the diamond personally. It's thermal properties are just fun.. but I get it's crazy pricey and that factors a ton into things.. what will you be printing mostly?
The only nozzle I am excited about is that revo belt nozzle. Whenever they decide to drop them on the market
I will see if I can get an update for you!
@@3DMusketeers I got 2 ideaformers just itching for a E3D mod
I feel you buddy!!
Does Orca slicer work on MK3S? Or does it expect bamboo style back communication from the printer to work well?
it does work on mk3s, not sure about phoning home though. It is open source and such which should let us poke around.
To be that guy, aluminium isn't all that abrasive but the aluminium-oxid Al2o3 is which is the thin layer on the surface of alu sheets.
That material is whats used on "sandpapers" and such and is next to diamond in hardness so a brass/steel/ will weare out quick if that whats in the filament.
Thank you for the clarification! I dig that kind of thing!
To date I've only used a 0.4. I have a 0.25 Revo and I have a native 0.25 MK4 as part of my kit order. I haven't used them yet. I'm actually thinking the 0.25 might get used on my parent's mirror frame part for their car. I have to finish that soon. I have less than a month now (first weekend of june). It is almost done though. I did get the khaki atomic filament. The color is VERY close to the original part, but the original is slightly browner. I think my parents will be happy with the color though. I was hoping to print this on my MK4, but there is still no dates on the kits shipping. Unless mine ships in the first week (which would be a massive amount of luck), there is probably no way I'd be able to make the deadline with the mk4. So I should probably force myself to finish the basics of the model this weekend. And print a PLA test article. See how well it fits on the front half. Make adjustments as necessary. I'll probably do the final print in PETG on the week of the 28th.
One other thing I haven't decided yet. The original part has visible honeycomb infill (it's a 1993 injection molded part). I'm considering making it visible gyroid infill. lol Or I could just add in bottom layers and "seal off" the infill. I think gyroid might look cool......even if you'd have to take apart the mirror again to actually see it except during the installation process.
While I dont have the right color, happy to help on the printing sided if you need! We do have some PLA that is the right color, but of course wont last. Can always make it out of black ABS for you and you can paint it! Rattle cans will go a long way here!
The honeycomb is actually called ribbing I believe and adds stiffness without much weight. You can likely completely remove it without issues.
@@3DMusketeers lol it BARELY fits on my mk3, but it does fit. If we find that PETG doesn't work then I'll tell them they could always have you do it in ASA (I think the original is PC-ABS). But it's a car that doesn't get used much (because of it's age they don't trust it that much and my dad isn't as able to fix cars as much as he used to) It is convertable so it will mostly be used with the top down or in the garage. From what I've seen I believe PETG should handle that fine.
yeah it should be okay!
I'm new to 3D printing and this is the first video I've seen from your channel. This is unrelated and probably common knowledge, but I noticed your video cuts seemed to almost haopen without me realizing it.. even though I did. Does the sound of the next clip start before the cut? That's a cool effect.
Yes. It's a common thing with video editing. The audio from the next clip starts 5-10 frames before the video does. Makes the cut less jarring. It's intended that way :)
I'd love to see some videos about layer WIDTH, not just height. I do a lot of printing of text and I'm trying to get it smaller and sharper. I got a .2mm hot-end for my P1S. I found it interesting that when I open a Bambu .2mm profile it scales down the layer height but leaves line width the same as the .4mm profile.
that seems odd for the slicer not to change the width.
I THINK CNC Kitchen did a video somewhat on this, but we can see what we can do!
@@3DMusketeers I did my first print with the .2mm, very small text and details. WOW. Pretty spectacular. Especially face-down on a smooth plate. Too bad the corner decided to warp. We'll try again tomorrow. But the details are there. Almost looks screen-printed it's so good.
oh yeah, 0.2mm nozzles are INSANE
I do want to know more about nozzles so i have subbed.
Nice!
@@3DMusketeers question for you,
I just recently purchased a QIDI PRO CF. I want to get different nozzles. Not alot of options out there, MK10 is believe is the size?
I dont know what nozzles it takes unfortunately! I am sorry!
Please do the video for nozzle changing. Also I have printed the same thing about six times and it alway came out perfect then it started printing with a flaw that causes the print to fall in half. Would this be a nozzle or a program problem?
so many potentials that it could be, would need to see photos
@@3DMusketeers is there a way to get you photos?
email or DM them to me on social media
How do you change nozzle without damaging it in the process. Its a 3rd time for me to strip the threads of the Ender 3S1 Plus hotend. Should we use a torque wrench or some thread cleaning method?
do it hot is one of the first things, and make sure you are actually loosening it.
We should do a video on changing a nozzle.. may be tough to film but I will add it to our list
@@3DMusketeers That would be super nice of you, thanks a lot!
always trying to make better content :)
I actually have 1 of my printers I use all the time with 1.25 nozzel diameter. It's for a part that does not need the highest detail. It need strength
thicc
Will I damage my Diamondback if I run it on a printer that probes the bed with the nozzle like Voron Tap or MK4/XL Prusa?
depends on how hard it hits the print bed, but you shouldnt.
The type of diamond used in DiamondBack nozzles is PCD or polycrystalline diamond. It performs extremely well in compression and should not give you any issues when using the nozzle on a printer that probes the build plate.
how do you do infill combination in bambu slicer
Specifically in Bambu I do not know, we dropped it for orca slicer due to safety concerns, but since it is based on Prusa Slicer, you can use the search function in the settings for the print itself and find it there. If it is in the same place as orca it will be under Strength > Advanced > Infill Combination.
Hope that helps!
The Arachne walls generation is... It's something. That should be why YT sent me here. I was (and succeded) printing a very thin single layer with my logo and contact to embed in the epoxy over some carbon fiber.
It turned out doing the job with a 0.4 nozzle, where the Thin Walls option and setting the width to 0.4 straight didn't help at all, Arachne made it!
It appears to mess things up on complicate shapes in height but dude, for reverse printing letterings, qr codes, logo and stuff, it's the way to go.
Btw, talking of "just input the producer's recommended parameters"... No way Bambu Silk PLA prints at 230*C?? I haven't done dimensional accuracy tests, tho... I printed small letterings. And nooo waaay I could have done it with Bambu Silk with their recommended temperature-
Also the problem then was the stickiness to the plate. I used 117°C and 50*C on a Bambu P1P naked in the end. Very far from their values. 230°C 65°C is definitely overkilling.
Arachne is a very cool system, when it works, often its settings holding it back
DO you have a video on temp towers?
we dont.. we should.. adding that to the list!
@@3DMusketeers I'm total noob , stuffed my nozzle on my first print job, it was still good at hour 7 of 8 , by 8 of 8 it was printing noting but air for a cm. Is a secondhand machine though, waiting on new nozzles as no amount of trying is clearing the old one.
temp tower wouldnt fix that issue for whatever it is worth, so at least there is that
@@3DMusketeers I'm a newb, so I'd like to learn
I am not a newb, but I still LOVE to learn! I actively seek out more things to learn!
9:22 It's abrasive because it's a hard ceramic (like sand), not because it "has aluminum in it".
Water has hydrogen in it. Does that make it flammable?
I was always told it was the metal in it, sorry!
And technically yes, as long as you can disassociate the molecule first ;)
@@3DMusketeers Ionic and covalent bonded compounds (2 or more elements, where at least 1 is nonmetallic) don’t share physical, chemical, or electrical properties with metals. Only metallic elements and alloys (a mixture of entirely metallic elements) are metallic. It has nothing to do with aluminum. Strontium aluminate has more in common with sapphire than aluminum. Sorry to be a dick.
@@3DMusketeers Before someone mentions that steel and cast iron have carbon, there are exceptions that are “culinary” alloys, but “botanical” composites.
You arent being a dick, you are educating me, I appreciate it! I had been given wrong info!
I support the idea of a video for changing nozzles.
noted!
I’m sure you’ve got a camera watching what I’m trying to do 😂
I’m having a nightmare trying to get my settings right for my 0.6mm obxidian.
I have one file that prints ok with it at lower layer height but as soon as I up it, the print doesn’t play for me 😢
try upping the temps some? What layers are you trying to go to?
@@3DMusketeers I think I’ve finally got it sussed……trial and error has certainly helped me understand what different settings in Prusa slicer actually do!
Failing that, I’ll just have to tolerate time consuming prints like I was already used to 😂
always good to experiment!
Bozzle, the only nozzle you’ll ever need
the second person for bozzle.. why?
@@3DMusketeers I’ve put over 60kg of plastic through it, including 4kg of PCCF printed at 330C and 10kg of asa-cf as well as crash it into my bed so hard it dented the spring steel and it looks like I bought it yesterday.
And it’s high flow so I can get that sweet 50 cubic:)
50mm3/s?!?! that is INSANE. You could run around 1500mm/s constant speed and not hit that limit. Are you even pushing it, or is that a theoretical limit.
If you have connections with Bozzle, I am happy to talk to them to learn more!
@@3DMusketeers 50 cubic you'd get with something like a dragon UHF hotend, but point is that it's got high flow geometry and measured within 5% of a CHT of the same size. speaking of size, it's a sweet-spot 0.5mm orifice, you loose basically no detail from 0.4 and you can print filled filaments more reliably (a few people had a few clogs on 0.4 nozzles, but none at 0.5). oh and did i mention it's solid tungsten carbide? it will outlast everything on your printer even if you print stuff like glass fiber or glow in the dark filled filament. And it's very temperature resistant and wont disintegrate like insert-based nozzles. if you get a clog you just put a flame torch to it.
Are hot swapping nozzles actually that much trouble for people?????
It's the hot tightening issue I think, but yeah it can be especially for new users or ones recently burned lol
I've destroyed a hot end on my duplicator i3v2 back in the day trying to do a nozzle change. I was an idiot, I was new to 3d printing and I didn't know better but it happens.
0.5mm best nozzle size. My mind can't be changed.
eh, so few companies make them it is hard to keep spares around. Or lulzbot had one but we switched it after it sheared off during a print!
@@3DMusketeers bozzle ;)
Eh, I prefer 0.6. Much less prone to clogging. Never tried the bozzle though, but would be open to it.
E3D Revo nozzles are "cheap"? Okay, maybe compared to those diamondbacks, sure - but compared to standard brass, they're quite expensive. It's a really nice system, though - I'm basically choosing the best nozzle size to fit the print, instead of sticking to mostly a single size because replacing a nozzle used to be a big pain. No diamond nozzles for their system yet - but ObXidian is really working well, it runs at surprisingly similar temperatures to brass, and since they will probably run the life of my printer I'm not sure if diamond would be much better. The ability to just swap out the nozzle while it's cool without taking anything apart - I love it.
When you consider the revo comes with the heatbreak and such all on it, I think the price is right, but yes, compared to a cheap brass nozzle, its pricey.
Well, considering you cant put a diamond on a revo yet, I would say yes, the obxidian should be more than enough :)
Protip here, have it retract a ton at the end of every print (and de retract at the start or make up for it in the skirt) so you never have to remember to take the filament out to remove the nozzle again!
@@3DMusketeers that's a really neat tip, thanks!
totally!
I make, other than 3d prints, some stuff with CFRP and I want to say: I don't like hearing "Printing carbon fiber" because there's no such a thing. You 3D print carbon fiber additioned nylon or other plastics, and if you ever tried to laminate by hand something with carbon aramide and epoxy resin, well, you'd know the difference.
Sorry for being pesky pointing this out but today, that resin, boy oh bwoy... I had a hard time this afternoon.
Actually, look at MarkForged, they are able to embed a monofilament of CF or even Kevlar into prints making them much better! But yes.. CF in filament, while not woven, is still abrasive and causes parts to be very rigid.
That's superinteresting! What you told me they do is my wet dream for manufacturing a logo onto cf!! Thanks!! And also for the info about nozzles and scaled down prints, you heard me it's what I like to do other than molds or plumbing spares lol Now I want to try what a 0.6 is. I ordered a 0.2 yesterday and... You just told me why it's sold at just 12 bucks :D@@3DMusketeers
the only downside to Markforged is they are crazy expensive
I wish revo and diamondback would join forces and make a diamondback revo nozzle! If they did i would be all over it. I love my diamondback nozzles too much to switch without diamond.
That would be amazing
SAME! Even a highflow revo diamond lol
@3D Musketeers Maybe you could help bring something like that into reality. Suggest that to diamondback. Idk if you know anybody at revo but I feel like it would be the best nozzles out there.
I already have suggested it :)
And E3D is aware of them :)
Great video, but promo code does not work.
Are you using it for Amazon USA or somewhere else?
If it has expired on Amazon US I will get it renewed from the guys in the morning! Sorry about that!
Aluminium….. you got it right 😂
LOL
0.4 is what I use for perhaps 99% of what I print.
same, but it is nice to change it up from to time to time
Best nozzle is bozzle nozzle
why do you say that?
@@3DMusketeers high flow, high temperature (pcd can't go over ~300c), super hard, and good thermal conductivity. Tip shape is good too.
@@Tedlasman PCD is actual stable well above the temperatures a 3D printer is going to reach. The diamond can even be treated where it can be exposed to temperatures over 700C without running into problems.
@tedlasman It is a test we will have to do, but what exactly are you printing at those temps? Things like PEEK PEKK and Ultem will NOT like something like the bozzle and you dont generally want to print them fast anyways. I would LOVE to see a diamond highflow though. I will have to have a chat with the guys at DB and see what can be done!
I dont know what the bozzle is made of off the top of my head, can you refresh me there?
I do need to get some in to test... they are on my list of cool nozzles!
@@3DMusketeers we have people printing pekk, pc, pps, psu with a bozzle just fine. higher flow means better melt, better layer adhesion, and the ability to print faster. People print those materials slow because they can't print them fast.
Bozzle is made of tungsten carbide, all one piece, no inserts. You can torch it to clean it, which you can't do with pcd or brass.
Also, bozzle is cheaper than those diamond ones. Their marketing is good, i must admit!
Sadly, can't use Diamondback on the Bambu.
Not yet.
@@3DMusketeers Oooohhh. Somebody knows something..... :)
Oh, I know nothing. At least that is what the Internet thinks....
@@3DMusketeers I heard there's a Bambu compatible hotend on Ali Express that has swappable nozzles but I didn't follow up on it.
I am not up to date on those really.. I have those new E3D ones
9:25 Coming as socialist metric-using european: In science, both aluminium as well as aluminum are correct. Considering the names of other elements "aluminum" would be more in line than "aluminium". But use whatever you want, neither is wrong or what "it's supposed to be called".
It is just fun to upset a specific subset depending on what pronunciation we use lol
Oh, My... Degrees in Celsius and "Aluminium"? Am I misjudging your American accent?
You are not lol, I live in Tampa, FL. I'm a stickler for things.
this is your thing :)) Ai bots not gonna win from us YT must fix that subscribers lock SMASHHH THAT LIKE ppl
glad you enjoyed it
it's not the nozzle size, is how you use it 🥲
I agree! #smallnozzlegang