Potential quick fix. I've had this issue for a couple of months and never got round to fixing it. Heard it can be due to dust so blew harshly into the gaps between the middle mouse button. Worked for a month now with no issues. Before buying all sorts just give that a try first.
My friend, THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH for this tutorial. You've saved me from a massive headache and a lot of money too. There was DUST inside that extremely minuscule hole in the tiny squared box attached to the wheel. I didn't need to switch anything. I cleaned it after disassembling everything, and magically the mouse returned to its former glory. I'm very grateful that people like you exist. Take care and thank you again!
@@zombification What the heck lol right after I saw your comment I literally just blew into the scroll wheel and this problem is finally gone you all are the best
Blow, huh? I have a Razer Basilisk V2 with all optical switches that I ordered on in September 9th of '21. I'm just now checking that and seeing that it was right at 14 months later to the date that my mouse wheel began acting funny. By the end of that gaming session I knew I had a problem. I figured it just needed an adjustment but I wanted a decent mouse to use before I took this thing apart so I ordered the new V3. Now I take the V2 apart and see that there is nothing I can adjust inside. I don't want to take the decoder off and replace it. I'll put it back together and try blowing. Hell, I'll even try a can of compressed air. I'm a bit pissed because I have a history of going through two or three mice per year because the left mb always gives up the ghost. So when I saw a review for the Basilisk V2 with the optical switches I knew I had to have one. Funny thing, I didn't realize it but they sent me an original Basilisk NOT the V2 and I used it for over a year before I checked it. I now use that one with my laptop (which I turn on occasionally) and I've been using the V2 I ordered a year ago as my regular desktop mouse. The original with the mechanical switches is still fine. I'm a bit pissed that the reason the V2 needed replacing was because of the mouse wheel. That's just irritating. I'll put the mouse back together now and see if blowing into it will do anything. Nice to meet all of you responders. Later.
If anyone reads this comment. I didn't take anything apart. I pushed downwards quite hard on the wheel, and wriggled it backwards and forward like a maniac. Seems fixed.
Huge help bro, bought the parts, took it apart, replaced the bits, put it back together and now my 7 year old mouse is practically brand new again. One suggestion to people who are going to undertake these same repairs, when removing the mouse wheel, dont do what I did and remove the whole bracket, i ended up snapping small pieces of plastic that i had to superglue back together. REMOVE THE WHEEL FROM THE BRACKET! Thanks again! A $20 AUD repair job vs a $140 new mouse.
So: for those looking into this video with the same issue concerning the Razer Naga Pro rz01-0342 (the wireless one with interchangeable plates), I've gone and opened up that mouse. Inside is a different encoder by the company Kailh, and when I popped it open, I found that it was coated with a nasty black dust (likely from Chinese manufacturing smog or something similar; it was almost like coal dust) inside. A clean of those contacts with a Q-tip and some alcohol along with * very gently* bending those copper pads back on that green wheel piece inside to give it some extra spring using a screwdriver (along with adding some extra bend in the spring-y piece of sheet metal this guy bent with his fingers; I opted to use some needle nose and very light pressure). As long as you take care to not bend the small sheet metal plate that is covering the whole assembly during your disassembly, you can superglue or UV resin the piece back together while holding it closed with semi-firm pressure from some needle nose; make sure you don't get glue on the green wheel or contacts inside - this will ruin the part. As long as both the contact pads and the spring are both given some life and cleaning, and given your glue/resin job holds up, the unit should work like new. Also, any other issues with the mouse can likely be dealt with here; squirt some electrical contact cleaner into all of your button units and swab off anything weird you might find on the board. After reassembling mine, I haven't had a single issue and I even resolved some other issues I had with some buttons. I have seen elsewhere on the internet that you can actually use the encoder shown here as a replacement for the wireless naga pro, but you will have to resolder the wires and connector to the board from the original encoder to the new one and ensure that they are in the correct order (I saw somewhere a diagram showing which wires go where to control which direction the encoder sends when it registers movement. And considering the mess I saw inside the encoder when I cracked it open, I would maybe actually opt to rebuild my encoder anyway to personally ensure that there isn't smog dust or something else encased inside. To be clear, the wireless Naga Pro uses a Kailh encoder, whereas the encoder listed here is a TTC encoder. They appear to be interchangeable from my research as long as they are rewired with the connector properly. Up to you if you want to rebuild with some glue or just resolder some wires. I don't have a soldering gun rn, so it was just a better option for me to rebuild the original. It would be extremely helpful if someone made a video repairing theirs with the info I've listed here. I'd also happily repair someone else's for the sake of creating a video using it; I'm not in the market to purchase another defective unit purely for the sake of repair since it's not my usual kind of work, and I could very well screw up my next attempt, but it could technically be worth it to refurbish these mice right now if you have the hands for it; a defective unit can come as low as $40 on eBay today, and a refurbished and tested unit can still sell for $90 to $100... That's a nice margin for a $2-3 part fix and maybe 45 minutes of labor to a seasoned pro. It took me a little less than 2 and a half hours for full disassembly, clean and reglue, and reassembly total, and this is my first time ever repairing a part of this size. Seriously, someone with some capital and time or owns an electronic repair shop could just buy up defective units and refurbish them. Or someone could make a straight killing on eBay selling rewired Naga 2014 TTC units to fit the wireless Naga Pro; you'd just need to find a board connector that fits and could be rewired onto it... @rossmanngroup would probably help with that lol.
thanks for this. I wasn't able to pry open the encoder to get to the D spring you mentioned. However, I used needle-nosed pliers to squeeze and sort of dent the metal casing ever so slightly (coming from your principle of trying to tighten the contact point), and it seems to work pretty well, in fact I got the reverse effect from you, now the wheel feels a tad too tight, but hey, it works!
I know this is old, but in case anyone else finds this: I just took the mouse apart and cleaned everything really well with isopropyl alcohol. I also took the wheel out and flipped it to the outside of the little mechanism it pokes into (there is another hole on the opposite side) this made it easy to use the wheel as like a wrench to slowly turn the mechanism while I gently cleaned the top part with alcohol after each turn. I don't know if this last part is needed, but if you look inside the top of the wheel mechanism, you can see a thin little metal piece (I think this is what detects scrolling as the mechanism turns). I used a very small metal tool (I think a paper clip might work) to slightly push that metal piece inward toward where the wheel normally is. In theory, pushing it in like that should help but to be honest, I think just cleaning everything did the trick. I did not put any tape or anything on mine.
Sadly, the metal piece has nothing to do with the scrolling function. The encoder on the wheel is what does that part. Typically done in some sort of grey code (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rotary_encoder) the encoder can tell direction of movement based on current position and previous position.
@NixVo Thank you very much bro, I had this problem with my mouse for 2 years and when I read your comment I didn't really believe it, but I tried it and it worked perfectly. Not all heroes wear capes.
As usual point of failure is the thinnest possible metals. Like Steelseries uses the thinnest possible wire gauge and their headphones disintegrate. Thanks for the video! I could aim my duster more effectively at the encoder side of my mouse wheel and things are working better now.
Thank you so much for this video! This was definitely the issue I had and this is how I finally fixed it after dealing with that horrible scroll for far too long than my sanity could take.
Much appreciated. The middle-click on my model of Naga is just dead. Nothing I can do for it outside of re-soldering switches and the like. However, the scroll wheel issue has been resolved, thank you. Different model than yours, but a thorough clean and re-assembly helped get it back in shape for the time being, at least until I can gets my hands on a new Naga to replace this one I've had since 2012.
this worked for me so far, just don't have the snappy scroll anymore, will just have to get used to the sorta more tighter non clicky scroll. but it saved me from buying a new mouse
In case you really dont want to open the mouse, you can try blowing really really hard into the sides of the wheel a couple of times. Worked for me on my mamba!
Hey, I had the same problem as you, that my middle mouse button wouldn't always register when I clicked it down, so I went ahead and bought a set of two new encoders and mouse skates. Cheap fix, works as a charm. Thanks for uploading this video, saved me from going out buying a new mouse! :)
You can re-use the feet if you use a heat gun to take them off, get some rubbery style adhesive. Also have a stand by mouse in the event that you end up needing to buy some feet due to bending them. Love the side profile. I think I'll skip the naga and keep using the death adder. I used to be able to put my pinky on the shelf of the naga epic 2012 but I like the height of the death adder great for my hand size. The Epic 2012 sucks, battery life is a hassle for a desktop. You're better off with a mouse that takes actual batteries on the go because you can swap them out and keep going for a long haul. At home you don't need wireless.
Thanks for the instructions. I had 3 different Razr models and both were having the same problems. My next mouse definitely is not going to be a razr :)
I just took it apart and blew the crap outta it and cleaned out some hair and gunk and debris with a screwdriver and now it works! And then replaced the pads on the bottom with black duct tape that I cut with a scissors.
I was having this issue with my mouse and really worried i'd have to replace it, i normally avoid razer products but this mouse has been working really well for me outside of the scroll wheel messing up like this, so this video saved me having to replace it ^^
Friend, thank you very much for the tutorial, I had the same problem and it was solved by lifting the 3 copper plates from the green wheel. a million thanks. greetings :)
I hope you are still there. I have a question: When the wheel is seated back in the cradle, does the encoder have any freedom of movement? I just took apart a one year old Razer Basilisk V2 and when I spin the wheel the encoder will rock slightly forward or back with the wheel, then when I release it, it rocks back to what I'll call a resting position. I thought maybe this was the problem. After watching your vid and reading some comments below I'm not so sure. Thanks.
Thanks, I was considering buying the Naga Trinity since I was enjoying the Naga quite well that I had, but it has the same issue. Gonna try fixing it up and saving 80 bucks. Only bummer about it is waiting for the spare parts to arrive, because they're from China.
I like the 2012 or older versions. the two side buttons for your pointer finger are very well placed and the mentioned membrane buttons dont press as easily when readjusting your mouse. I have had both the naga molten and now the 2014 naga chroma
after blewing in the wheel ramdomly during last year when the problem, i reached the no return point last week, so yeah your tutorial came handy, i've changed the encoder just a few minutes ago, and yay brand new mouse working like a charm, so thanks ^^
You a legend! Thank you so much:D I was able to fix mine just by spraying the encoder with some WD-40 Specialist Contact Cleaner. Ordered some new encoders as well, just in case :)
Get a can of electrical contact cleaner, unplug the moues and place it on newspaper or paper so you don't make a mess, pull up the buttons and spray the cnotact cleaner into the exposed pots and between the scroll wheel and spin the wheel back and forth to get the contact cleaner soaking through the points. My Diamondback Chroma has been jumping a lot with the scroll and I looked high and low for fixes then realized I have a can of contact cleaner for my simracing rig pedals since the pots are exposed to dust/hair, and I used it on my mouse and voila works again.
Спасибо, у меня модель более новая, проблема была в том что волосок и пыль попадали на лазерный считыватель, у мыши большие корпусные швы - пыль легко попадает, ничего менять не пришлось - только наклейки отдирал осторожно до винта не полностью отклеивая, - затем приклеил обратно
So my Razer Naga X middle mouse BUTTON just started not working about 30% of the time. For example, a game i play requires me to hold down the middle mouse button and move the mouse around to adjust camera angle. Now, when i hold down the middle mouse button and glide the mouse a direction, it will stop 'mid glide'. Same thing happens on any web page (using the middle mouse button to scroll up and down) and also on a different computer so that tells me its a hardware problem. I've taken the whole thing apart, cleaned it (for being just over 2 years old it really wasnt very dirty at all), put it back together and same problem. I saw where the button is located and how its pressed.. like i said it works about 70% of the time. Very annoying when it doesnt work :/
I've had this mouse since 2015 and it started acting strange with this "jumpy scroll wheel" issue in 2018-2019. I've dealt with it for some time and this seems like it's more trouble than it's worth, seeing as how the laser is also starting to fail. I'll just buy a new one and free myself from these issues.
Got a question that you might have some knowledge of. My Wireless naga, doesn't work wired anymore. At first I thought the USB port was gubbed, but checked that and the cable and they're both find. It doesn't charge, or work as a mouse with the cable, but wirelessly it still works, and charges via the wireless dock. This fixed my scroll wheel though! Thanks!
Hey great, I'm gonna give this a try. I've had my Naga RZ01-0104 at my CAD / CAM PC by the laser cutter in the metal fabrication workshop at work, so super dusty environment and wasn't surprised when the scroll wheel started misbehaving. I haven't watched and listened to the full video yet, does this also fix the scroll click not working or anyone know how?
The first edition of the Razer naga lasted me for years, now with the newest edition after 1 month the mouse wheel stops working properly, I smashed the first one to pieces out of anger after not being able to scroll for a few days and bought a second, and now that one has the exact same problem, never Razer again.
Hello TechClub, I have this problem on my Razer Lancehead Mercury tournament Edition Mouse. Do you think the encoder that you advised for your Naga can fit also for resolving my case ? I mean, the encoder can fit on most of the Razer mouse, like mine, or is it really made specifically for the Razer Naga Mouse ? I'm considering to buy this encoder for my Razer, but before that, I would like to be sure to buy the right item. Thanks for your answer, for this video also and.. Have a nice day ! :)
well i have had the same issue on a death adder and a naga so possibly, try find a picture online of your mouse open, if it uses the same setup then probably will be the issue
Ok so after watching this video i found a fast easy fix for this problem that may or may not help you but i found that if i stuck a small screw driver inthe side of the wheel where the box is if u press kinda hard (not too hard lol...) to just bend the contactors to make better contack... so you dont have to dissasemble lol..... but well see how long this lasts. ill try to re comment when it fails again
Anyone know if the Razer Naga encoders are compatible across different models? I have the Hex V2 and of course these Chinese listings are not very specific.
Can you link me somewhere I could buy the full housing for the mouse? I've been trying for a long while to try replace the whole body because I broke the mounts on the body when I forced the new lid I replaced on it. Thanks for your help.
same here also an epic chroma, wanna know if someone has found some side panels. because all I've found are just the top shell part. q.q dropped my mouse and a chunk of the front part of the left side panel is chipped
unfortunately did not do the trick for me. Even replaced the encoder, stripped the PCB right down and scrubbed it with IPA and the issue persists. Asked razer CS about getting a replacement main PCB but they won't help. I'd buy the PCB elsewhere but I have the left handed version so I can't source one.
I had an A4 tech mouse for less than 5$ that doesn't have a mouse wheel problem. But once I bought a Razer Deathadder I have this issue. I only had this mouse for a year.
Yeah, I will never buy a Razer mouse again. I have a Logitech g5 and mx518, both still working after 10+ years. My Naga mouse causes problems all the time, especially the wheel after just 2 years. This is ridiculous.
@@REELmultigaming yeah fuck razer and there shitty cheap products, i have a naga 2014 and a orbweaver stealth both start having issue shortly after i had bought them! never again will i but another razer product!
Hello there. I have the razer mamba tournament edition, with the same issue. Scrolling up and down is a pain in the ass + my wheel button works 2 out of 10 times. Have been looking online for a solution and I think yours is what comes closer to my issue. Since I can't find a replacement encoder for mamba te, could I buy the razer naga encoder and replace it with this one? Will it work? I don't think there is a replacement encoder for mamba te and that's a shame, cause I really like the mouse and that's the only problem I have
thorough clean of all the parts: encoder specially. From the inside. And some extra pressure while assembling it again. As stated in video: lose contacts (copper ones) can deteriorate or pick up dust.
I have the same problem with my Mamba Wireless. It is sad that nothing that Razer is making is reliable. This is the first time in my life I have a mouse that fails at the scroll wheel level. Is that the same encoder for all Razer mice?
If your feet on the bottom of the mouse are worn and you plan on replacing them then this is a good time to go ahead and do the fix giving you a nice fresh new mouse
@@techclub8528 After I open my mouse and put all the parts back into place, the left button and the right button are no longer crisped. They become mushy. I made sure I screw the screws back very tight. Does you know how to fix that?
Potential quick fix. I've had this issue for a couple of months and never got round to fixing it. Heard it can be due to dust so blew harshly into the gaps between the middle mouse button. Worked for a month now with no issues. Before buying all sorts just give that a try first.
This worked for me, thank you!
This worked for me too, man. Thank you very much c:
I have never said this before but this is the most fitting time to say it: Not all heroes wear capes.
Thank you so much!
holy shit that actually worked, thank you so much
Thanks man it did work for me :)
I used a compressor blower
My friend, THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH for this tutorial. You've saved me from a massive headache and a lot of money too. There was DUST inside that extremely minuscule hole in the tiny squared box attached to the wheel. I didn't need to switch anything. I cleaned it after disassembling everything, and magically the mouse returned to its former glory. I'm very grateful that people like you exist. Take care and thank you again!
@@zombification ty for commenting this lol, fucking headache
@@zombification What the heck lol right after I saw your comment I literally just blew into the scroll wheel and this problem is finally gone you all are the best
Blow, huh? I have a Razer Basilisk V2 with all optical switches that I ordered on in September 9th of '21. I'm just now checking that and seeing that it was right at 14 months later to the date that my mouse wheel began acting funny. By the end of that gaming session I knew I had a problem. I figured it just needed an adjustment but I wanted a decent mouse to use before I took this thing apart so I ordered the new V3. Now I take the V2 apart and see that there is nothing I can adjust inside. I don't want to take the decoder off and replace it. I'll put it back together and try blowing. Hell, I'll even try a can of compressed air. I'm a bit pissed because I have a history of going through two or three mice per year because the left mb always gives up the ghost. So when I saw a review for the Basilisk V2 with the optical switches I knew I had to have one. Funny thing, I didn't realize it but they sent me an original Basilisk NOT the V2 and I used it for over a year before I checked it. I now use that one with my laptop (which I turn on occasionally) and I've been using the V2 I ordered a year ago as my regular desktop mouse. The original with the mechanical switches is still fine. I'm a bit pissed that the reason the V2 needed replacing was because of the mouse wheel. That's just irritating. I'll put the mouse back together now and see if blowing into it will do anything. Nice to meet all of you responders. Later.
I just blew into mine and it works... What an amazing fix lol thank you! Dust was the problem!@@Daytodaycontent
If anyone reads this comment. I didn't take anything apart. I pushed downwards quite hard on the wheel, and wriggled it backwards and forward like a maniac. Seems fixed.
Sometimes it can be dust caust in the sensor so yes this could work. Also a can of compressed air is also a good idea.
This also worked for me, for now. Something did pop when i did it. Thanks.
Edit: Nvm already stopped working again LOL!
worked for me at least for now!
Hey, thanks for the advice, it seems to have worked for me as well.
This has worked for me as well at least for now my mouse is not the Naga its the DeathAdder so it doesn't just work for the Naga
Huge help bro, bought the parts, took it apart, replaced the bits, put it back together and now my 7 year old mouse is practically brand new again.
One suggestion to people who are going to undertake these same repairs, when removing the mouse wheel, dont do what I did and remove the whole bracket, i ended up snapping small pieces of plastic that i had to superglue back together. REMOVE THE WHEEL FROM THE BRACKET!
Thanks again! A $20 AUD repair job vs a $140 new mouse.
So: for those looking into this video with the same issue concerning the Razer Naga Pro rz01-0342 (the wireless one with interchangeable plates), I've gone and opened up that mouse. Inside is a different encoder by the company Kailh, and when I popped it open, I found that it was coated with a nasty black dust (likely from Chinese manufacturing smog or something similar; it was almost like coal dust) inside. A clean of those contacts with a Q-tip and some alcohol along with * very gently* bending those copper pads back on that green wheel piece inside to give it some extra spring using a screwdriver (along with adding some extra bend in the spring-y piece of sheet metal this guy bent with his fingers; I opted to use some needle nose and very light pressure). As long as you take care to not bend the small sheet metal plate that is covering the whole assembly during your disassembly, you can superglue or UV resin the piece back together while holding it closed with semi-firm pressure from some needle nose; make sure you don't get glue on the green wheel or contacts inside - this will ruin the part. As long as both the contact pads and the spring are both given some life and cleaning, and given your glue/resin job holds up, the unit should work like new.
Also, any other issues with the mouse can likely be dealt with here; squirt some electrical contact cleaner into all of your button units and swab off anything weird you might find on the board. After reassembling mine, I haven't had a single issue and I even resolved some other issues I had with some buttons. I have seen elsewhere on the internet that you can actually use the encoder shown here as a replacement for the wireless naga pro, but you will have to resolder the wires and connector to the board from the original encoder to the new one and ensure that they are in the correct order (I saw somewhere a diagram showing which wires go where to control which direction the encoder sends when it registers movement. And considering the mess I saw inside the encoder when I cracked it open, I would maybe actually opt to rebuild my encoder anyway to personally ensure that there isn't smog dust or something else encased inside.
To be clear, the wireless Naga Pro uses a Kailh encoder, whereas the encoder listed here is a TTC encoder. They appear to be interchangeable from my research as long as they are rewired with the connector properly. Up to you if you want to rebuild with some glue or just resolder some wires. I don't have a soldering gun rn, so it was just a better option for me to rebuild the original. It would be extremely helpful if someone made a video repairing theirs with the info I've listed here. I'd also happily repair someone else's for the sake of creating a video using it; I'm not in the market to purchase another defective unit purely for the sake of repair since it's not my usual kind of work, and I could very well screw up my next attempt, but it could technically be worth it to refurbish these mice right now if you have the hands for it; a defective unit can come as low as $40 on eBay today, and a refurbished and tested unit can still sell for $90 to $100... That's a nice margin for a $2-3 part fix and maybe 45 minutes of labor to a seasoned pro. It took me a little less than 2 and a half hours for full disassembly, clean and reglue, and reassembly total, and this is my first time ever repairing a part of this size.
Seriously, someone with some capital and time or owns an electronic repair shop could just buy up defective units and refurbish them.
Or someone could make a straight killing on eBay selling rewired Naga 2014 TTC units to fit the wireless Naga Pro; you'd just need to find a board connector that fits and could be rewired onto it... @rossmanngroup would probably help with that lol.
thanks for this. I wasn't able to pry open the encoder to get to the D spring you mentioned. However, I used needle-nosed pliers to squeeze and sort of dent the metal casing ever so slightly (coming from your principle of trying to tighten the contact point), and it seems to work pretty well, in fact I got the reverse effect from you, now the wheel feels a tad too tight, but hey, it works!
I read your comment and decided to do just that. Worked like a charm--thanks!
Hey, just did the same thanks to your comment. Also a little tight but better than non-functional! Thanks a ton.
I know this is old, but in case anyone else finds this: I just took the mouse apart and cleaned everything really well with isopropyl alcohol. I also took the wheel out and flipped it to the outside of the little mechanism it pokes into (there is another hole on the opposite side) this made it easy to use the wheel as like a wrench to slowly turn the mechanism while I gently cleaned the top part with alcohol after each turn. I don't know if this last part is needed, but if you look inside the top of the wheel mechanism, you can see a thin little metal piece (I think this is what detects scrolling as the mechanism turns). I used a very small metal tool (I think a paper clip might work) to slightly push that metal piece inward toward where the wheel normally is. In theory, pushing it in like that should help but to be honest, I think just cleaning everything did the trick. I did not put any tape or anything on mine.
Sadly, the metal piece has nothing to do with the scrolling function. The encoder on the wheel is what does that part. Typically done in some sort of grey code (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rotary_encoder) the encoder can tell direction of movement based on current position and previous position.
THANKS just done this works and fixed my naga going on for 10 years now would like another 10 if possible love this mouse for gameing :)
Quick Fix:
Just blow really hard as close as possible near the scrolling wheel, I got it fixed without needing to open it.
@NixVo Thank you very much bro, I had this problem with my mouse for 2 years and when I read your comment I didn't really believe it, but I tried it and it worked perfectly. Not all heroes wear capes.
As usual point of failure is the thinnest possible metals. Like Steelseries uses the thinnest possible wire gauge and their headphones disintegrate. Thanks for the video! I could aim my duster more effectively at the encoder side of my mouse wheel and things are working better now.
Amazing i bought from aliexpress a censor /pads packs for almost nothing , I followed your steps and now its working like a charm ! thanks you
Thank you so much for this video! This was definitely the issue I had and this is how I finally fixed it after dealing with that horrible scroll for far too long than my sanity could take.
Much appreciated. The middle-click on my model of Naga is just dead. Nothing I can do for it outside of re-soldering switches and the like. However, the scroll wheel issue has been resolved, thank you. Different model than yours, but a thorough clean and re-assembly helped get it back in shape for the time being, at least until I can gets my hands on a new Naga to replace this one I've had since 2012.
You have saved my $100 mouse. Thank you so much
Thanks for the video, I just took it a part and cleared the wheel connectors etc, put it back together and it fixed my issue. Thanks for the upload.
Similar, I just had to clean the plastic spoke that fits into the encoder.
Did u buy the replacemnt for where the screws are on bottom?
just cleaned out a bit of dust from either side of the wheel and gave it a blow and it actually fixed mine from doing this, whichever way works!!
Thank you! I just ended up taking my encoder out from my naga, and rinsing it with iso alcohol and that got rid of my phantom scrolling I was having.
Super helpful thank you! Had my Naga Trinity for less than a year and started having this same issue.
this worked for me so far, just don't have the snappy scroll anymore, will just have to get used to the sorta more tighter non clicky scroll. but it saved me from buying a new mouse
update, I bought 2 new encoders and im already installing my 2nd tonight. I think once this one breaks down, I might have to just buy a new mouse.
In case you really dont want to open the mouse, you can try blowing really really hard into the sides of the wheel a couple of times. Worked for me on my mamba!
Thank u lmao it helped
Thanks to your video I have been able to repair my Razer Naga mouse. Thanks for sharing.
Hey,
I had the same problem as you, that my middle mouse button wouldn't always register when I clicked it down, so I went ahead and bought a set of two new encoders and mouse skates.
Cheap fix, works as a charm.
Thanks for uploading this video, saved me from going out buying a new mouse! :)
You can re-use the feet if you use a heat gun to take them off, get some rubbery style adhesive. Also have a stand by mouse in the event that you end up needing to buy some feet due to bending them. Love the side profile. I think I'll skip the naga and keep using the death adder. I used to be able to put my pinky on the shelf of the naga epic 2012 but I like the height of the death adder great for my hand size. The Epic 2012 sucks, battery life is a hassle for a desktop. You're better off with a mouse that takes actual batteries on the go because you can swap them out and keep going for a long haul. At home you don't need wireless.
Thanks for the instructions. I had 3 different Razr models and both were having the same problems. My next mouse definitely is not going to be a razr :)
I just opened everything as per your video and apllied WD-40 (Machine and Engine Degreaser).
It is working perfectly now.
Nice 🎮
In March 2020 I followed these instructions, and my scroll wheel doesn't jump anymore. HALLELUJAH!
Thanks
Fix worked. Thank you for the great breakdown of how to restore my 2014 Naga to proper scrolling action.
thank you so much for this! fixed my naga chroma and saved a lot of money
I just took it apart and blew the crap outta it and cleaned out some hair and gunk and debris with a screwdriver and now it works! And then replaced the pads on the bottom with black duct tape that I cut with a scissors.
I was having this issue with my mouse and really worried i'd have to replace it, i normally avoid razer products but this mouse has been working really well for me outside of the scroll wheel messing up like this, so this video saved me having to replace it ^^
Friend, thank you very much for the tutorial, I had the same problem and it was solved by lifting the 3 copper plates from the green wheel. a million thanks. greetings :)
My Goodness!! You are a life saver!
Fixed mine in a jippy! Thanks a million
Thank you! The mouse scrolling was driving me nuts and this fixed it.
I hope you are still there. I have a question: When the wheel is seated back in the cradle, does the encoder have any freedom of movement? I just took apart a one year old Razer Basilisk V2 and when I spin the wheel the encoder will rock slightly forward or back with the wheel, then when I release it, it rocks back to what I'll call a resting position. I thought maybe this was the problem. After watching your vid and reading some comments below I'm not so sure. Thanks.
I am sorry, it was a long time ago I took this apart I cannot remember, yeh maybe if it’s worn then there is now clearance for it to move forward,
Thanks! Watched first time and ordered encoder, I'm back and installed it and works like new!
Thanks, I was considering buying the Naga Trinity since I was enjoying the Naga quite well that I had, but it has the same issue. Gonna try fixing it up and saving 80 bucks. Only bummer about it is waiting for the spare parts to arrive, because they're from China.
What is better:
Razer Naga 2012 or 2014? I've never tried the 2012
I like the 2012 or older versions. the two side buttons for your pointer finger are very well placed and the mentioned membrane buttons dont press as easily when readjusting your mouse. I have had both the naga molten and now the 2014 naga chroma
after blewing in the wheel ramdomly during last year when the problem, i reached the no return point last week, so yeah your tutorial came handy, i've changed the encoder just a few minutes ago, and yay brand new mouse working like a charm, so thanks ^^
Will the same encoders work for, say, Deathadder elite 2016?
You a legend! Thank you so much:D
I was able to fix mine just by spraying the encoder with some WD-40 Specialist Contact Cleaner.
Ordered some new encoders as well, just in case :)
Thank you a lot, you made me end my own suffering, tho i broke my mouse because im autistic but its my fault. great video
Get a can of electrical contact cleaner, unplug the moues and place it on newspaper or paper so you don't make a mess, pull up the buttons and spray the cnotact cleaner into the exposed pots and between the scroll wheel and spin the wheel back and forth to get the contact cleaner soaking through the points. My Diamondback Chroma has been jumping a lot with the scroll and I looked high and low for fixes then realized I have a can of contact cleaner for my simracing rig pedals since the pots are exposed to dust/hair, and I used it on my mouse and voila works again.
Thanks for the huge help!
Thanks for making this video! I had the same issue my new encoders just came in today and it fixed the problem.
I just fixed mine because of this video, thank you so much! I love my Naga!
Спасибо, у меня модель более новая, проблема была в том что волосок и пыль попадали на лазерный считыватель, у мыши большие корпусные швы - пыль легко попадает, ничего менять не пришлось - только наклейки отдирал осторожно до винта не полностью отклеивая, - затем приклеил обратно
So my Razer Naga X middle mouse BUTTON just started not working about 30% of the time. For example, a game i play requires me to hold down the middle mouse button and move the mouse around to adjust camera angle. Now, when i hold down the middle mouse button and glide the mouse a direction, it will stop 'mid glide'. Same thing happens on any web page (using the middle mouse button to scroll up and down) and also on a different computer so that tells me its a hardware problem. I've taken the whole thing apart, cleaned it (for being just over 2 years old it really wasnt very dirty at all), put it back together and same problem. I saw where the button is located and how its pressed.. like i said it works about 70% of the time. Very annoying when it doesnt work :/
Thank you man . this was the best solution my mouse is fixed now.
I've had this mouse since 2015 and it started acting strange with this "jumpy scroll wheel" issue in 2018-2019. I've dealt with it for some time and this seems like it's more trouble than it's worth, seeing as how the laser is also starting to fail. I'll just buy a new one and free myself from these issues.
My mouse just started doing this. Ty for the vid!
Got a question that you might have some knowledge of. My Wireless naga, doesn't work wired anymore. At first I thought the USB port was gubbed, but checked that and the cable and they're both find. It doesn't charge, or work as a mouse with the cable, but wirelessly it still works, and charges via the wireless dock. This fixed my scroll wheel though! Thanks!
fix worked perfectly, definitely had to buy a new sensor.
I blew in mine real hard on both sides and it worked fine after. Just saying that might your first step before taking it apart.
Hello and thank you for this super Video. You saved my Razer Mamba TE mouse and me wallet. SUPER THANKS ! ! Have a nice day from sunny Athens Greece.
did you buy the encoder or did you just re-bend the spring
Very useful video, gratefully appreciate the informative demonstration, Thank you
Also a big thank you. Ordered pads and the encoders.
Hey great, I'm gonna give this a try. I've had my Naga RZ01-0104 at my CAD / CAM PC by the laser cutter in the metal fabrication workshop at work, so super dusty environment and wasn't surprised when the scroll wheel started misbehaving. I haven't watched and listened to the full video yet, does this also fix the scroll click not working or anyone know how?
just did this on my razer chroma. good as new.
EDIT: If you have once ounce of mechanical or electrical know how... You can do this.
is this the same for the naga pro
I'm going to try this out. I guess if I break it, then not loss since it's kind of broke already...
saved me from buying a new mouse thanks
Great :)
The first edition of the Razer naga lasted me for years, now with the newest edition after 1 month the mouse wheel stops working properly, I smashed the first one to pieces out of anger after not being able to scroll for a few days and bought a second, and now that one has the exact same problem, never Razer again.
Thank you so much for this. Was driving me nuts.
will the 2014 encoder work for the 2020 model ? cant find the 2020 encoders
can seem to find the ebay store to buy the scroll wheel and the rotor
Hi bro, could you please tell me what kind of tool you use, I don't want to open the mouse without having everything i need
I used a 2.0 mm phillips and tweezers for the pads
Perfect! thank you so much. And you are the only video I found!!
Thank you! So easy to do. I think my mouse is now fixed. Saved me lots of money. I was about to buy a new one haha. :D
Lovely video, thank you so much! My mouse is saved!
Thanks, this helped! Btw, what camera are you using to record this?
Sony a5100 but I wish I had a better one.
I have this issue on my razer basilisk ultimate and it's frustrating for a not cheap mouse!
Thank you! I will buy the parts to fix it!
Do you need an special scredriver??
My mouse wheel click isn't working. Would this method help with that?
Hello TechClub,
I have this problem on my Razer Lancehead Mercury tournament Edition Mouse.
Do you think the encoder that you advised for your Naga can fit also for resolving my case ?
I mean, the encoder can fit on most of the Razer mouse, like mine, or is it really made specifically for the Razer Naga Mouse ?
I'm considering to buy this encoder for my Razer, but before that, I would like to be sure to buy the right item.
Thanks for your answer, for this video also and.. Have a nice day ! :)
well i have had the same issue on a death adder and a naga so possibly, try find a picture online of your mouse open, if it uses the same setup then probably will be the issue
Ok so after watching this video i found a fast easy fix for this problem that may or may not help you but i found that if i stuck a small screw driver inthe side of the wheel where the box is if u press kinda hard (not too hard lol...) to just bend the contactors to make better contack... so you dont have to dissasemble lol..... but well see how long this lasts. ill try to re comment when it fails again
I just blew really hard into my house and it fixed it so yea, good video though
Anyone know if the Razer Naga encoders are compatible across different models? I have the Hex V2 and of course these Chinese listings are not very specific.
Big help thank you! mine's fixed now! :)
would this work with razer mamba
Thank you for this video. I really appreciate it!
Can you link me somewhere I could buy the full housing for the mouse? I've been trying for a long while to try replace the whole body because I broke the mounts on the body when I forced the new lid I replaced on it.
Thanks for your help.
BTW Mine is the razer naga epic chroma RC30-012301
same here also an epic chroma, wanna know if someone has found some side panels. because all I've found are just the top shell part. q.q dropped my mouse and a chunk of the front part of the left side panel is chipped
unfortunately did not do the trick for me. Even replaced the encoder, stripped the PCB right down and scrubbed it with IPA and the issue persists. Asked razer CS about getting a replacement main PCB but they won't help. I'd buy the PCB elsewhere but I have the left handed version so I can't source one.
I had an A4 tech mouse for less than 5$ that doesn't have a mouse wheel problem. But once I bought a Razer Deathadder I have this issue. I only had this mouse for a year.
i brought my mouse new last year and it had the problem from the start.
Yeah, I will never buy a Razer mouse again. I have a Logitech g5 and mx518, both still working after 10+ years. My Naga mouse causes problems all the time, especially the wheel after just 2 years. This is ridiculous.
@@REELmultigaming yeah fuck razer and there shitty cheap products, i have a naga 2014 and a orbweaver stealth both start having issue shortly after i had bought them! never again will i but another razer product!
Excellent how-to. What kind of camera are you using to film? The way you adjusted the zoom at the beginning was really nice
Straw and blowing worked for me , try that before this
From experience with a few of these, that will hold you over for a bit then that will stop working too and you'll need a proper fix.
same
How did this work.. aha this sorted my mouse out right away.
How do u fix the side buttons?
Hello there. I have the razer mamba tournament edition, with the same issue. Scrolling up and down is a pain in the ass + my wheel button works 2 out of 10 times.
Have been looking online for a solution and I think yours is what comes closer to my issue. Since I can't find a replacement encoder for mamba te, could I buy the razer naga encoder and replace it with this one? Will it work? I don't think there is a replacement encoder for mamba te and that's a shame, cause I really like the mouse and that's the only problem I have
Failed to mention, they are identical (as of outside appearance). So, probably, would work??
4:51 link ???????
Is there any other method without buying new encoder?
thorough clean of all the parts: encoder specially. From the inside. And some extra pressure while assembling it again. As stated in video: lose contacts (copper ones) can deteriorate or pick up dust.
just watching this video scared my scroll wheel into not being so weird
Could you link the items you bought, like the replacement sensor and the bottom parts? Please. xD
Isn't this kind of malfunction covered by warranty? Why not just contact razer support?
Out of warranty at the time
thanks for this video mine was full of dust lol like a fur ball worth
I have the same problem with my Mamba Wireless. It is sad that nothing that Razer is making is reliable. This is the first time in my life I have a mouse that fails at the scroll wheel level. Is that the same encoder for all Razer mice?
You could also try blowing in there with a straw. I think it is the same yes
@@techclub8528 Thank you for the quick reply. It is not perfect but it does help to blow air. I used an air duster instead.
If your feet on the bottom of the mouse are worn and you plan on replacing them then this is a good time to go ahead and do the fix giving you a nice fresh new mouse
@@techclub8528 After I open my mouse and put all the parts back into place, the left button and the right button are no longer crisped. They become mushy. I made sure I screw the screws back very tight. Does you know how to fix that?
all I did is hold Left and Right and the scroll wheel for like 7 seconds to reset the mouse
You can use double sided tape to put the rubber pads. Instead of buying new ones.
as long as its thin enough and you don't damage the feet while removing then yes, good way to keep the cost down
So, how long did this fix last?
I upgraded to a wireless mamba. This mouse still works fine just dont use it anymore
For me, all I had to do was open it up and clean the scroll wheel of any hair that had wrapped around it.