Jyers Firmware Guide/Overview for the Creality Ender 3 v2
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 มิ.ย. 2024
- This video is a guide / overview of jyers firmware for the Creality Ender 3 v2.
-- TIMESTAMPS --
00:00 - INTRO
00:58 - EEPROM SAVING
01:48 - M600 FILAMENT CHANGE
04:34 - PID AUTOTUNE
06:57 - MANUAL MESH LEVELING
10:58 - DISPLAY CUSTOMIZATION
12:19 - PICKING A FIRMWARE
13:29 - MOTHERBOARD VERSION
15:19 - BLTOUCH or NOPROBE
16:14 - NOPROBE
17:48 - BLTOUCH
19:27 - PROBE POINTS AND SPEED
21:46 - INSTALLING DISPLAY FIRMWARE
25:46 - INSTALLING MOTHERBOARD FIRMWARE
27:11 - SETTING PROBE X/Y OFFSET
28:55 - SETTING Z OFFSET
30:15 - PREHEATING
30:36 - PRUSASLICER SETTINGS
34:42 - CURA SLICER
35:39 - ideaMaker SLICER
36:25 - FINAL THOUGHTS
-- Link to Jyers GITHUB
github.com/Jyers/Marlin
-- Link to Jyers Precompiled Firmware
github.com/Jyers/Marlin/releases
-- Link to Jyers Wiki
github.com/Jyers/Marlin/wiki - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
CORRECTION:
I made a mistake in the slicer settings for Unified Bed Leveling. You need to add either M420 S1 or G29 A before the G29 L0 command. So the start G-Code should look something like this:
;Load Saved Mesh
M420 S1; Activate Mesh Leveling
G29 L0; Load Saved Mesh
G29 J2; Probe 4 Points and Adjust the mesh
I will have to note that when I make the video for Unified vs Bilinear Mesh
where do i put the g28 command
@@rickyhackett6703 G28 Should already be in your start gcode. You put the Load saved mesh gcodes after that. If it is not in your start g-code, it goes after set bed/extruder temp gcodes or before the purge/prime line gcodes
For manual mesh leveling i need use only GCODE M420 S1 ???
@@sotyson3833 correct
In CHEP's video he puts in the gcode.
Then he explains that he looked over the source code of the firmware and it shows that it automatically loads the saved mesh if leveling is checked.
He said the gcode lines are not necessary but that the redundancy will not hurt.
I guess I will still do both.
Thanks for the video.
This is the best guide i've found. Really appreciate your time and effort on this
Thank you! I lost count of how many times I flashed the firmware lol
By far the most comprehensive, and helpful guide I have seen. Excellent work mate!
Great video! Clear, structured and straight to the point. You saved my backside because I was quite frustrated with the stock marlin firmware. The live z offset and the manual bed levelling feature helped me a lot with setting up my BLtouch.
Thank you too, to Jyers who designed such an elegant firmware. 👍👍👍
This is insanely helpful! Thanks for putting in the time and effort, man!
Thank you very much for this tutorial on Jyers firmware. You explained a couple of issues I had questions about that will help me pick the best version for me.
You gained a sub.
Thank you for the feedback and sub. I'm glad this video was able to help. If you have any questions, feel free to reach out
This is the best walk through I've seen on the Jyers software, thank you for making such a detailed video! **One note, I ended up putting my G29 code after the bed warm up command, so that the bed is warm when it goes to take a mesh!
This is explained so well and clearly. More people should take this as an example of how to give a good explanation of how something works. Thank you very much.
Thanks for the well explained video! I'm new to 3D printing and you made it so understandable and in-depth! Good stuff!!
Thank you so much for this guide and the providing the matching G-Code, made my firmware update pretty easy to follow and turned my Ender V2 into a new machine!
Thank you for the kind feedback. I'm glad you had success!
Thanks for showing how to do the multicolor prints with the M600 command. Perfect.
My BLTouch has just arrived in the post and this tutorial is a really quick and simple way at setting it up, thanks!
Thanks for doing an in-depth dive have not seen too many of those
Thank you so much for making this guide. Saved me a lot of googling.
Just great info. First guide I found that covered it all.
Thank you. Very helpful for a newbie like me. I just installed it on an Ender 3 Pro with 4.2.7 board, digital screen display (knob) and the CR Touch. It's printing right now. First layer looks perfect.
Wow what a brilliant video, have achieved so much from this so now I need to retry my levelling which I am hoping will now be successful. You explain things so well, very clear and most importantly in a language that's not scientific but easy for us newbies ... Thankyou so much
Ive 4 of these and life just got a hell of lot better for me after watching this. Amazing stuff tyvm by far the best guide yet ! SUBB'D :)
Thank you! Jyers Firmware definitely made my life a lot easier. It made the E3v2 a lot more consistent and fail prints way less often
Liked and commenting for the algorithm. I was putting in key words and it still took forever to stumble on this video.
Thanks about to upgrade and found this to be the best video. Good work.
I now have confidence to upgrade the firmware. thank you
Thats awesome to hear. If you have any questions or run into any problems, feel free to reach out and I'll try to help.
Great video, really helpful. had all the info i was looking for.
thank you
Within the 1st 5 minutes I've learn alot. I cant wait to muster up the courage to update my firmware. I tried once and failed miserably lol went back to stock firmware but I can tell you this watching videos like these gets me closer to actually getting this done
If you run into any trouble, feel free to reach out through one of my pages
@@EB3DPrinting i will brotha thank you i just put a dual extruder with the Capricorn tubing , calibrated e steps ... that was fun but I nailed it lol now I'm getting stringing so I have a temp tower running now looks like 190° on the nozzle works best next ill do the retraction tower then ill give you guys a holla when I'm ready for that firmware 😎👍
This was extremely helpful thank you for the video :)
Very informative, as I just heard of Jyers as I'm looking to flash my E5Pro with the v4.2.2 board (CR Touch).
Thanks a lot, buddy! Liked & suscribed
Great video and great timestamps and links. Thanks for your efforts. Sounds like a Nawlin's accent...takes one to know one. Keep up the good work...sub.
I'm struggling to compile the Jyers firmware with my larger bed size 12"x24"x8.25" (305mm x 610mm x 210mm). I can't get it to work from my compile. Any chance I could pay you to build it for me? Running Ender 3 V2 4.2.2. board. BLT, ideally High Speed 15x15. Also, struggling with DWIN_SET file, too. Have a part for work need to print out ASAP. Not sure if the offset for the BLT would have to be adjusted. For expanding the X-axis I just added 80mm in total. Thanks...
Thanks for this as I am considering adding the Jyers firmware.
It's a well worth upgrade, even if you don't have a bltouch. Manual mesh leveling is a game changer
Awesome tutorial!!
Thanks, just successfully updated the firmware. Mainly to get the filament run out sensor support
Very nicely put together tutorial many many thanks. You really took the time with this one best Ive seen yet. Up and running now. Maybe you could simplify the g code side but very good never the less.
Thank you for the feedback. I did get a little talkative in the gcode section. I just tried to be as thorough as possible.
@@EB3DPrinting no no you where brilliant its not a fault by any means. Just that showing 2 examples was a little miss leading is all. Please keep it up. Best ive watched yet 100%.
Thank you for such a complete review. Could you let me know what firmware I would use on a 4.2.2 board with both the BLTouch and a filament runout sensor installed? Thank you for any help you can provide. Thank you.
Thanks for great video!
Thanks for a great tutorial, already did changed, works great, however got a question, when you change the G start code, i`m use CURA, do I have to put ; before the code? Thanks Man keep up the good work.
The ; means comment, so anything after the ; is ignored by the printer. All you need to add to you start gcode is either:
G29
Or
M420 S1
I love the video it is very edcational. where can I find the Raspberry Pi case you have on the left side of the printer?
Thanks
This is a GREAT VIDEO
Thanks for the video, helped me out very well. Where can I find the stl for your fan/cooler?
Here is the Fan Shroud that is in the video:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4375296
Wow, what a nice piece of work. I am running the btt E3 2.0 motherboard now, thus wondering how I can get some kind of diff files to remix this GUI package into my existing firmware based on BigTechTree...?
Great guide!
Great video! Thanks. I have been running JyersUI v2.0.1 with 3x3 mesh leveling on my Ender 3 v2 printer (4.2.2 board) along with the updated screen firmware. I have ordered a BLTouch to add to my printer. I assume I need to re-flash my Ender firmware with - E3V2-BLTouch-3x3-v4.2.2-v2.0.1.bin, will I have to re flash the updated screen?
Thanks so much.
I actually hadnt used my printer for almost 9 months because I had given up on the bl touch, I had tried so many firmwares.
Any suggestions on why after bl touch levelling the right side of my bed the nozzle is higher and the left side is lower?
I can see it squishing the material on the left, and on the right it wont stick....
Amazing. Thank you 🙏🏾
Thanks for your guide.
The 2 thing I wish they would add is linear advance and independent colors for the x,y and z.
Love your mainboard & psu covers, could I be cheeky and ask where you acquired the stl or step files from please?
PSU Cover:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4822648
Main board Cover:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4653994
Thank You for Your usedul tutorial! I successfully installed the firmware on my ender3v2 equibbed with 4.2.2 motherboard and i think it's features are awesome. Unfortunately when printing extruder seems to move extremely fast, despite the stoeed values appears to be exactly the same as stock firmware. I saw that this issue is already being reported but not yet fixed. I reinstall stock firmware but look forward to the fix to install it again.
good stuff dude
hey, thanks for the video. Which duct are you using? is it very silent? The stock one is hair dryer loud.
Fan Duct
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4375296
how do i know if my 4.2.2 board is working my bltouch stopped working after upgrading and yes i tried going back and tried different stock ones but now my touch is no longer working. is there anyway to check the board
Hi. Great video thanks. Slightly off topic but how did you make those printed parts for the fans underneath please. They look loads better than the small internal fans
Here are the links to those files:
PSU Cover:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4822648
Main board Cover:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4653994
Hi again Evan, Thank you again for your help for putting together this video. However, I do have a question regarding z-offset. I have installed Jyers Marlin v2.0.1 with BLTouch 3x3 grid. The problem that I think I have is: Nozzle z-height during first layer print is approximately 0.4mm above the print surface.
Here's the steps that I did:
1. set an arbritary z-offset value that allow my nozzle to be close to the bed to do "manual bed leveling". Used your bed leveling pattern to achieve good tramming.
2. Set z-offset using the live-z-offset feature from the "prepare" menu. I use 0.2mm feeler gauge to achieve my desired z-offset. The value i obtained was -1.15mm
3. Saved the z-offset value
4. revisited "manual bed leveling" from prepare menu to cross check if all 5 points have similar nozzle-to-bed clearance using my 0.2 feeler gauge.
Here's the chronology of my first 'bed leveling squares' print (appropriate starting gcode was added in cura. G29 was added after G28)
1. started print, BLTouch was probing the bed as expected
2. First and second line was drawn.
3. Upon starting the first square, I noticed that the filament was not sticking/squished at all.
4. Paused the print
5. use a feeler gauge to find the nozzle clearance. I found 0.4mm feeler gauge to fit snugly.
My follow up bed-leveling-square print job was done with live-z-offset tuning. The final z-offset that I achieved was -1.35. I repeated the print again with the new z-offset value and was able to have similar result.
When I rehome the print head and move the z height to "0", my nozzle just touches the print bed with close to 0.04mm clearance...
Now... I am confused, what is the right definition of z-offset? hahahah. Was my z-offset methodology wrong? or is it my slicer setting that is incorrect? I am lost. Any pointer would be great. Been scouring the web and reddit but to no avail :(
Oh, I also reflased the firmware with other Jyers Marlin firmware (except the UBL)
Thank you so much in advanced Evan.
Btw, do I need to add the thickness of the feeler gauge (or paper) to the z-offset value? I have seen some video outlining that step during z-offset calibration.
th-cam.com/video/y_1Kg45APko/w-d-xo.html
Simply put, the z-offset is the distance between the nozzle tip and the bltouch probe tip in the vertical direction.
Z offset has no bearing on manual leveling. When you manual level the bed, all you are doing is tramming the bed to be parallel to the x axis linear rail. The rail that the printhead moves on. You should manual level your bed after you set the actual z offset value.
When setting the z-offset, you are correct that you use the live z-offset adjust in the prepare menu. But I would suggest not using a 0.2mm feeler gauge for this. I understand the reasoning, since people often use a 0.2mm first layer height, they think a 0.2mm z feeler gauge should work, but I have found, and it seems so have you, that when using a 0.2mm feeler gauge that it is not quite close enough to get the required squish for the first layer. I would suggest using paper to set the zoffset. This works every time for me. You want the paper to be snug, but not buckle when you try to move it.
The final z-offset value will depend on a few factors. But Just to give you a reference point, My printers z offset values range from 1.2mm up to 2.4mm. It all depends on the bltouch mounting set up you go with.
Homing the printer takes the printer to its Z-safe home position. This position is whatever position is set in the firmware. This will position should not have the nozzle touching the print bed. There should be enough clearance for the bltouch probe tip to safely, and fully deploy without hitting the print bed.
@@EB3DPrinting alrighty, followed your advice on using paper instead and it worked 😁.
And yes I did use a 0.2mm feeler gauge on the basis of first layer height. I did that because I felt that a piece of paper have different thickness depending on the paper GSM (the higher the GSM, the thicker the paper), so I thought by using a feeler gauge, I would circumvent the variable of different paper thickness.
Anyhow, paper worked and I'm sticking to this methodology.
Thank you again for your prompt response.
Wishing you a successful channel and am looking forward to more videos from you
Ps. Am using your fusion360 exercise video to polish my fusion360 skill. 👍
My printers display will not update the progress bar or times remaining using OctoPrint. I have read the Wiki and have entered the lines of code from that page under OctoPrint settings but the screen still doesn't move through an entire print. Ideas on why? Thank You for the excellent tutorial....
I love the video, it's nice to see someone take the time to drill down and go more in-depth with content in general. It can definitely be confusing trying to decide which is the correct firmware to use. I understand that making sure you have the correct version mainboard and select the version with the BL touch (if you have it). But then you have versions of jyers out there that talk about bug fixes. It's still not clear to me which version to download for the Ender 3 V2 4.2.2. with BL Touch. I am currently running the bug fix version and I couldn't tell you more than that at the moment because I am in the middle of a print. Also, I haven't flashed the screen yet. Does it really matter? I seem to have all of the functions from just flashing the mainboard. I am also still confused about the leveling. So I created a new mesh, I have adjusted the Z offset and I can see where the bed is off by viewing the mesh. I go around and manually adjust the z offset through the interface where the bed is off. My question is, will I ever need to use the wheels under the hotbed to make any adjustments going forward? I think that's the part that confuses me still. I appreciate your videos and any assistance provided. I just shared all of your links with another enthusiast on Reddit haha hope I didn't confuse him too much, but he was having lots of problems with the creality update with BL touch that he just installed. Thank you
First. You don't need to flash the display, that's only if you want the fancy, but unnecessary icons.
Second. The bed mesh tells you the highs and lows of the bed, green means high, red means low. Ideally you want you highest point and lowest point to be within 0.2mm of each other.
As far as which version, I would suggest the bilinear 5x5 mesh. I run the high speed version. UBL is cool and all, but I feel it's overly complicated for as small of a bed as the ender 3 has.
@@EB3DPrinting v
does 3dtouch work properly on jeyrs Fw and how is it installed, are 5 wires of 3dtouch connected to the bltouch pin on the board or 3 wires attached to the bltouch pin and 2 wires to the Z end stop pin?
Thank you very much
Very good video 😁😁
Thank you for the feedback!
Great video! My display has been really laggy ever since I installed it, any ideas why?
Within the menu under “motion” there are x,y & z values. Are these the actual e-step values? Ie M92 values.
For preheat, I use 175/50 just so filament isn’t oozing out while I’m try to level
Hello.Please help me with the choice of firmware on my printer, My motherboard version 4.2.2 is also equipped with filament sensor Touch sensors , which firmware should I choose specifically for my motherboard . My TFT display. How to flash the display to work with my motherboard. thank you in advance
Can you explain what z point offset is, under leveling/manual tuning/z point offset? It differs from the common z offset under prepare. I can't find any information on what this setting does
I absolutely love the Jyers firmware but I am unable to "up the temp range" to 315 for my V2 printer and then get it to compile in VStudio for some reason. Has anyone compiled a BLtouch plus hotter temps that I can get?
Thanks
I have the same problem. Hoping someone can show us how to complie files for jyers firmware so I can print at higher temps.
any idea why it wont flash to my display for the new icons? I have the firmware on the sd card and when I plug it in to the back of the display and turn it on it just loads the screen like normal?
You are the best
Also thank u for a great video
I have the same blower design. Really good
It is a good design, I had to modify it a bit though for the 5015. The lower part that the screws go into to hold the fan broke. So I beefed that up a bit and made the 5015 sort of snap in now as well.
Great video many thanks, now fully upgraded, Just one question, in Cura machine settings you recommended using G29 for each print, I totally agree with that as I have added a magnetic pei bed to my e3v2 and there is no way that it goes back in the same place after every print. However, with the previous firmware (Smiths 3d for blt), which uses Bilinear levelling, I added M500 after g29 and then M420 S1 to use that saved mesh would that be appropriate in this firmware application? Thanks
M500 certainly doesnt hurt. It just saves the mesh to eeprom. But since you are building a new mesh with every print, saving the mesh becomes a bit redundant. I would keep it in the start gcode if you already have it there.
@@EB3DPrinting Hi, thanks for the quick response I take the point and will remove the M500 etc. Keep up the good work!!
new to 3d printing and come across your video, great video, i notice your bltouch doesnt fully retract, is that down to firmware or how the bltouch should work, my bltouch fully retracts when levelling, am currently on official marlin firmware
That is part of the firmware. It is covered in the "Probe Points and Speed Section" @ 19:47. I use the HS or High Speed variation of Jyers Firmware.
when I try to update to the Jyers Firmware, the screen is stuck on the Clarity Text with the dots and lines. Have I done something wrong?
I thought jyers also raised your hotend limit to 300c?? Mine is still at 260c…. I don’t yet have an all metal hot end but when I do get one how do I go about raising the limit of the hot end temps?
Hi,this is great video, but I need to know how to start with the bed. Before doing the auto bed leveling with the BLTouch and the new firmware how should the 4 leveling knobs below the bed need to be set?
Just in luck, I uploaded a new video covering this subject.
th-cam.com/video/LqDVsjf-JJw/w-d-xo.html
Just a heads up, might have already been mentioned. There is a F10 code in the cura settings after the M420 S1 command. The prusa settings are correct with the M420 S1 only. thanks for the vid.
You're right, I didnt catch that. Thanks for pointing that out. The video was getting quite long and I started to try and rush things.
Know anything about the Swiss direct drive edits such as firmware and code? (Jyers)
Does anyone know if it is compatible with the 4.2.2 board with GigaDevice GD32F303 RET6 CPU?
The newer 3 v2 enders come with this cpu and not the STM32F303.
Has anyone had a "SD INIT FAIL" when updating the Display firmware? Im on a Mac however the SD card is formatted as FAT 32
I got a problem with installing the screen thing and I went I done all steps but it just shows a glitched original screen can you help me
Good Video
Thanks for this video. It is starting to explain some of the Jyers secrets. Is there anywhere a full explanation of all his menu items? For example, one can set print speed to a number, say 80. So what is 80 then, 80mm/s, 80% or what? If it is 80%, then 80% of what?
I can see that the Jyers firmware has great potential but the lack of explanations and definitions makes it very difficult to work with. Anybody that can direct us to such a document or site?
Jyers is just a fork of Marlin firmware tailored to work with the Creality Ender 3v2.
There is plenty of documentation on Marlin firmware out there. For a deep dive:
marlinfw.org/docs/features/lcd_menu.html
You can also search for Marlin Display Menu Items
To answer your question. Print speed on the menu is a multiplyer of the current feature print speed. E.g. your wall speed is set to 40mm/s and infill set to 80mm/s. If your menu is displaying 50 for speed, that means it is printing at 50% of the requested speed. Your print walls are printing at 20mm/s and infill is printing at 40mm/s
Fan speed is a direct %. 10% fan speed is 10%.
Flow rate is also a multiplyer % but the displayed value can differ depending on the slicer used. Slicers that use a % value for flow typically display that %, and slicers that use a decimal value typically display 100%
i have intention bl touch 5x5 v4.2.2 but x bed size 225 y bed size 235 z max pos 400
After doing this my printer will no longer home the Z Axis. I have the BL Touch upgrade and everything was working fine before. I even tried reverting back to the old firmware and it's still not doing anything. I also tried disconnecting the BL Touch and installing the non BL Touch firmware and it still won't home Z. It will let me manually move Z up in settings, but it won't go down. Any ideas?
I've had the printer for about a year. So I don't think it's a wiring or physical setup issue.
The first question I have is do you have a single white connector bltouch or a two connector bltouch?
Check this guide to make sure your BLTouch Wiring is correct.
smith3d.com/ender-3-v2-bltouch-firmware-installation-guide-by-smith3d-com/
Do you know if newer boards are compatable with older version s of Jyers Firmware? My Ender 3 V2 shipped with a 4.3.1 version board.
It appears so. The board version that is supported should be in the title of the firmware. I don't use jyers anymore, so you'd have to look it up on the GitHub page
Does this firmware work with the creality touch screen?
Afrer flashing the display, my screen goes ORANGE as planned but stays orange. How long should it stay orange? If I turn it off while its orange and follow the steps, I still cannot get the boot screen. Thank you again for the great video
After you insert the SD card into the back of the display, power on the printer, screen should go from blue to orange, as you stated.
After the screen turns orange, power off the printer, Remove the SD card from the back of the display at this point. After removing the SD card, power on the printer again and the display should be successfully flashed
So, my e3v2 has 3DFUSED linear rails... and it's homing the opposite ways off of home... with th3d though... maybe I can try this? I'm told the XY offset can't be positive and that I need manual hardware solution. Any advice?
You could try something like this
marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M206.html
How do I know if it's using the mesh? That check box was off after one of my prints...does the line of code added to the machine in cura turn it on even if that check box isn't checked?
As long as the code you have in cura is correct, it will use the saved mesh.
Thanks for the great video.. Followed to the tee every detail and worked perfectly. Then i added my drive motor for the z drive worked fine for a bit, now it wont go down on home or leveling. any ideas ? it will go down in the move command.
Sorry second drive motor on the right side
@@leesummer5256 do you hook it up by a split cable connected to the stepper driver? One cable leads to both motors?
Second. When you say leveling, I'm assuming bltouch. Does the bltouch self test when you turn the printer on?
So if you do say a 5x5 mesh with a PEI sheet and save it to EEPROM then do a M420 in Prusa Slicer (slicer that I use) then Print your part then want to switch to a powder coat sheet you then have to do another mesh and save to EEPROM? What I'm getting at is you need to do a mesh for each build surface that you use? Last question is does it make sense to have the bed level knobs more on the tighter side to avoid them loosening when printing?
For a 5x5 mesh, I just run a new one before every print. It takes less than a minute to complete, so for me it's not worth risking a failed print.
For bed springs, you want them on the tighter side that way the bed doesnt move and there is enough tension between the threads of the bolts and the threads of the knobs. This ensures the knobs wont back off over time.
@@EB3DPrinting how do you change how many points are leveled during a mesh?
How to add runout senor with bltouch
thanks man, nice explanation. Can you provide links to PSU and motherboard covers? They look really cool.
Thank you for the feedback. Here are the STLs
Main board:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4653994
PSU:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4822648
To get the same look, make sure to have 0 top and 0 bottom layers.
@@EB3DPrinting Thank you for your time.
@@EB3DPrinting Thank you, I wanted to ask for a link to every upgrade you've printed for your Ender. Looks amazing. Thank you for the great content!
Why do you need to update the display firmware? I never did and it works well? Am I missing something?
Correct, you do not necessarily need to. It is mainly if you want to unlock display customization options.
Thank you so much. But the Filament Sensor in menu will work with Smart filament sensor from BTT? Or that option only for regular runout sensor?
It does not look like the default setup for Jyers supports the BTT runout sensor. There are a few lines that would need adjusting in order to get it to work. You could compile your own easily to make it work with Jyers
@@EB3DPrinting Ok, thanks. Compile firmware is no problem for me, but I hope what creator make some changes to make choice in menu in next versions. BTT runout sensor is popular solution.
Thank you for such a clear overview. Could you answer a few questions for me. I have the 4.2.2 board with both a BLTouch and filament runout sensor. What firmware should I select? Also on one the screen shots I saw for the filament selection it had PLA, ABS, and PETG. Is that already on this firmware or do I have to configure it, if so how do you do that? Thank you for any help you can provide.
For you, any firmware with BLtouch in the name with 4.2.2 at the end will work. If this is your first bltouch firmware, I recommend starting with E3v2-BLTouch-3x3-v4.2.2-v1.3.4.bin to get you started and use to the bltouch.
From my understanding, every version of the firmware works with the standard filament runout sensor. I think it needs a special config for the smart filament runout sensor.
The PLA, ABS, and PETG are preheat commands in the Prepare>Preheat menu. These can also be adjusted and changed in the Control menu
@@EB3DPrinting thank you for the fast response.
@@rickmccaskill7888 You're welcome, if you need any further help, feel free to reach out. I'll try to answer as quickly as possible
@@EB3DPrinting if I download the BLTouch firmware how do I go into the firmware to setup the runout sensor? Thanks for any help you can provide.
@@rickmccaskill7888 depends on what file you've downloaded. You can not edit the bin files. The only way to add it is to download the Jyers folder, open it in VScode with PlatformIO and the edit the configuration . H file in VScode. After you've edited it, then compile it to a bin file. Bit more complex than I can explain in a TH-cam comment
I'm looking for a way to set the extruding speed when purging filament during a color/filament change. Is there such a way to slow down the extruder? The stock purging speed is way too fast most of the time.
I don't believe there is without compiling the firmware yourself
EB3D Printing
I need your help.
How did you wire your Bltouch? Because mine is only pushing the pin back and fourth but does not go down.
I think you may have wired the bltouch differently.
I am not home to take a picture at the moment, but this guide from smith3d will hopefully be helpful for you
smith3d.com/ender-3-v2-bltouch-firmware-installation-guide-by-smith3d-com/
Hi and thanx for the video. It helped me a lot.
Could you share a link for the mod of the bottom fans? The one for the PSU and for the electronics cooling.
Also, are there somewhere the configuration files for each precompiled .bin file Jyers proposes? For example, I would like to use the first one (E3V2-BLtouch-3x3-HS-v4.2.2.bin) but also make a change on the max nozzle temp (increase by 10 deg).
Thank you for your time!
PSU Cover:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4822648
Main board Cover:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4653994
As far as raising max temp. There is an example config of the 3x3 high speed that can be built using VS Code if you are familiar with building firmware. If not, when I get time, could build you a 3x3 HS for the 4.2.2 board with a max nozzle temp to 285.
@@EB3DPrinting Thanx for your reply and links. I am familiar with building firmware. Actually, Jyers release is the first not compiled by myself firmware I used for my Ender 3 v2. I was just wondering if there is a place that I could find the parameters (configuration.h & configuration_adv.h) of the precompiled bin files, so I can choose the most suitbale for me and change only a couple of things like i.e. max temp and recompile the firmware, instead of making all changes from the beggining on a default configuration.h file. That is ok, you don't have to spend time, I will compile it ;-)
Thanx
@@IoannisStellas here you go. If you've downloaded the whole zip file like I mentioned in the display firmware, you already may have them. Go into the Marlin_Extensible_UI folder>Configuration Files>E3V2 Templates>BLTOUCH_3x3_HighSpeed
Here is a direct link to those Config Files:
github.com/Jyers/Marlin/tree/Ender_3_V2_Extensible_UI/Configuration%20Files/E3V2%20Templates/BLTouch-3x3-HighSpeed
I love you!
Can someone please help me? I have to be doing something wrong. I installed the Sprite Pro Kit on my Ender3V2 and didnt know I needed to update any firmware. I have since done so with the JyersUI using this video and another I found. For some reason thought when I did it it changes the bed size from 220x220 to 230x230 I have tried adjusting probe offsets along with home offsets but it seems like no matter what when it goes to do the leveling the probe ends up off the bed. 5 min ago this happened and the nozzle hit the bed and cracked it so now I'm just over trying until I can find some more insight. This has been a 2 day process so far..........Any help is greatly appreciated!!!!!
Unfortunately jyers firmware wasn't designed to work with the sprite extruder.
The 230x230nis due to the bed actually being 235x235, it increases the limits of the print area, you can safely print up to 230x230.
If your probe is going off the bed, your offsets are not correct. Make sure you have you x/y directions correct as far as +/- goes
Thank you for this video! I have bltouch 5x5 jyers installed. Could I use the gcode m420. I don't mess with my bed much. So I don't think I need to always level it before the print. I do check the bed here and there. But was curious if I can use that good. Thank you!!
Yes you can. If you level the bed through the printer display, then save that mesh to eeprom, you will be able use M420 S1 to load that saved mesh before a print.
@@EB3DPrinting you are the man!! Thank you!!
Hello, wonderful video, if you can guide me through installing octoprint on my ender3v2
I don't have a guide for it yet, but BV3D has a great video that helps walk you through the process
th-cam.com/video/7JDWHatFENQ/w-d-xo.html
does it have filament runout
Thank you for this video! Just the education I needed. :)
I don't know if you mentioned it but when flashing the display your SD card should be as small as possible. I had to put my 32GB in a 8GB partion or else the display went to red directly after power on and then fail the flashing. And it has to be in FAT32. :P
I did not mention this. But this can also be a problem for some older mainboards as well. Where the limit to the SD card size is 8gb. Thanks for pointing this oit