Easy z-offset adjustment for your 3D printer.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 พ.ค. 2024
- This is an absolute beginner's tutorial on setting a 3D printer's z offset when you have a bed leveling probe installed such as the BL Touch or CR Touch. I don't only tell you how to do it, I also explain the relationship between leveling the bed with an ABL and the z offset.
I've watched so many videos since getting my CR Touch a little over a week ago, and this is the ONLY video that helped me figure out why my prints weren't sticking to the bed. I bought a new bed, experimented with so many temps, compiled different firmwares and spent HOURS of my nights trying to figure out why my "level" bed had trouble getting filament to stick. Watched this once, and I was finally able to correctly set my z-offset and my first test print worked with no issues. I can't think you enough!!
yep, same.
@@mikebird4066 The same with me
😊
Same for me, Creality sucks at giving the basic info to set up their stuff and their firmware organization is a mess. Too much focus on nice packaging and not enough on the meat. I very quickly concluded this was the probe not knowing how vertically far it is from the nozzle and I was about to bend the bracket when I found this video. Thank you!
Finally the one video. Not only shows you what steps to do but also in which particular order to properly setup your printer.
Very nicely done. Your explanation of z offset was easy to understand. Thank you!
Your walk thru was stellar. You explained it perfectly and I got a perfect print the first time through. I am now one with my printer. Thank you so much.
Tyvm for being so calm and taking your time showing all of this
I've watched a lot of videos on this topic and yours is by far the most straight forward and easy to follow. Subscribed. Thank you.
Excellent tips mate, this helped me a lot. THANK YOU.
Thank you. Watched so many videos and this is so easily laid out with the two videos in video. So much easier to understand when you can see on the panel and what the printer is doing. This video is saved in my favourites so I can refer back in the future. Thanks.
Thanks for the comment. I'm glad that you found this video informative and helpful. RG
excellent step by step tutorial! By far one of the best videos on this topic. thank you!!
I was also having issues with getting everything right after I installed my CR Touch. Thank you for your detailed video. Everything is printing beautifully now
Thank you. Probably the best explanation and instruction out there.
Your video is the best for teaching z-offset calibration. thank you!!
Thanks, that almost got me out of trouble. Still have to fine tune the nozzle height but my Ender 3 max is up and running. 😊👍
Thanks for the M211 info about the Soft Endstops!! Really helpful info!
You're welcome. Glad that it was helpful. RG
J’ai jamais été aussi content ❤ merci merci énormément !
I've been printing for 10 years now. Started with printing platforms to ensure a good flat contact, that corrected for said uneven bed or simply taking the bed off and bending it straight 😅Then insolated the bed to prevent warping/even heating and also printing a thicker first layer, which worked for me perfectly for the last 6+ years. Worked so well I never cared for anything like a BL touch, then i got a printer with a 300mm x 300mm bed and started printing ABS. 1st, glass does warp 🥲 the larger it gets the much wavier it can be. Installed a BL touch and adjusted to barely touch the actual bed, use a slicer with 1st layer compensation for elephant foot, and i get amazing bed adhesion with 0.2mm first layers and nearly invisible lines on the bottom of large prints. Honestly was amazed the first time how well it worked.
Only issue is that on my Creality Sermoon D1 it applies the bed correction to every layer, which is odd and mostly doesn't effect the prints in an visible way. It does make the printer nosier though, as my printer has "silent" stepper motors for E X Y but not Z.
It's also vital to level the bed every time if you have dual z motors, activate the motors to lock them when removing parts off the bed or messing with extruder (depending if you have z on the bed or the extruder) as to not knock it out sync with each z screw. And you can always time them together with a belt. Personally i think dual z motors are a flawed approach unless they have a way of automatically leveling each print, and if you tie them together then one motor would work better so you don't have two motors fighting each other if there not exactly on the same 1.8 degree phase.
Side note, I also installed a copper sheet in-between the bed and glass, that has helped a lot with even and quick heat saturation in the bed. The bed always gets hot in the middle and bulges because the edges are cold then the parts themselves can and will act as heat sinks (especially with part cooling) and will cause temperature fluctuations, which are a big reason for prints coming off the bed. Tested it with a harry potter wand the full 310mm tall in PLA white, white because oxidized titanium is used for the color and that seams to give everyone issues. Stayed on perfectly with NO brim. This is also why new higher end printers have a separate heater for each section of the bed and a much better temperature control to prevent heat fluctuations.
Fantastic tutorial!👍👍👍
Thanks, I've had a new Ender 3 Neo Max for months and my son and I couldn't print anything because we couldn't get the height properly dialed in, it was either too low and scraped the bed (eesh) or too high and shot the filament everywhere, your tutorial allowed us to find the ideal height using Z-offset and then setting it as the default, we're printing something perfectly as we speak!
Thank you so much for a really great and informative video the
best I have seen on the subject including the cr touch. Thank you so much..
You're welcome. I'm glad it was helpful. RG
Best explanation yet. Thank you
You're welcome. I'm glad it was helpful.
Thank you for the video. I can't wait to tram and z-offset my new CR Touch, and get printing again. Bed leveling has been such a pain... But this makes it much less painful!
Great informative video. Thank you sir.
I had a lot of issues with this, and other videos either flying right past, or skipping steps. Your video was a god send! I was really pulling my hair out, swear jar over flowing. I am half way through printing the circles, and they all look great so far.
I would hug you if you were here! I'm not only a subscriber, but also a fan.
I like that you respond to comments, and make an effort to help out. That's a great service, thank you sir.
Excellent! I"m glad that this video was helpful. RG
@@CreatewithTech actually, I am still having a ton of trouble. I home the probe. Move Z until it is the right height I want. The number seems to be different each time... But when I put the number into Z offset, the head hits the table. I move the z axis and get my number let's say -000.1 but when I go to probe the offset, it gives me the number in 00. and when I put -00.1 it hits the bed. I am totally lost with this. Most've tried doing it 50 times by now, numbers are always different. Bed is level, i'm lost.
I took off the z stop when I installed the probe. Should I keep the Z stop switch on? I have watched so videos, I don't what is right anymore.
@@mikebird4066 I'm sorry you're having issues with this. I understand how frustrating it is. A couple of questions: 1. What printer are you using? 2. Assuming that you installed the automatic bed leveling system yourself (CR Touch/BL Touch) did you update the firmware for the printer to take into account the newly installed ABL? If you did, I'm assuming the Firmware update was successful. 3. Did you manually level your bed with the wheels first and then try to set your Z offset, because you should do that first. 4. After getting the correct number for the z offset did you save it to eprom? So these are the steps you need to take... 1. Update the firmware 2. Manually level your bed 3. Calibrate your z offset (turn off the z limit switch if it's turned on) 4. After getting the correct number for the z offset make sure that you save it to eprom. Also turn on the Z limit switch and again save it to eprom 5. Put the G29 command in your start G code in your slicer for the printer to initiate bed leveling before each print. Let me know if you've followed all these steps. If you did and it's still not working, then there's something else going on. Confirm that you've followed each of the above steps. RG
@@CreatewithTech i have an ender 3 pro. I downloaded the latest firmare, and put it on 2 sd cards. Not sure if it takes or not, printer just seems to boot up. When I look at my about it says april for firmware, so doesn't seem to have updated, but the auto leveling, was in the menu, and did it's thing before each print. it was printing but seemed to be too close to the head, initial lines of print, were very thin, not able to peel off thin.
So I leveled my bed manually, and tried to change my z offset, but it always seemed to put the head into the board. not sure if I am putting in the wrong values, as the formats for the numbers are different 00.0 and 000.0 for move the z, and setting the off set.
I put the z axis switch back on, and hooked it up, pulled the plug on the CR touch, and plugged the z axis switch back in. Now it doesn't home properly, and prints won't start, they heat up, and then back down again, no kind of message.
I would love to reset the machine back to defaults, but that doesn't seem to work. Just beeps, does nothing.
@@CreatewithTech i went back to different firmware, and am able to print again. i will try again with the cr touch from scratch. thanks for your help.
Absolutely perfect, thank you very much…..
Incredible video, I recently bought an ender 3 s1 and its leveling system has disappointed me, (and I am sure that the cr-touch is fine, because I have done a precision test and very accurate results come out) every time I use the system automatic leveling and after manually applying the z-offset on the screen, even so, there are areas where it does not adhere well to the bed, but if I do a manual mesh leveling applying z-offset at each point, everything turns out perfect, without problems of adhesion, it only happens to me with automatic leveling
For me best explanation yet. Thank You : = }}
Great! I'm glad it was helpful. RG
Thank u so much 😂😂❤❤❤ I subscribed for how good you are again I like the vid and thank u
This video is absoletely the best in explaining the Z Offset - the only issue I have is when it does the bed leveling with the 9 points that the CR Touch performs, It will start with point 1 but is goes way over to the edge of the bed but too far so the probe in the CR Touch has nothing to touch, it will do that on the first 1 of 9 and then stop and it seems you look in the menu and Bed Leveling is then Off - any clue what is happening? I had update the firmware to the Marlin with BL Touch GD board as I was told to by Creality support.
Olá, sou brasileiro e comprei a minha primeira impressora 3D há algumas semanas, uma Ender V2 NEO da Creality. O seu vídeo me ajudou a encontrar o azimute do Z-offset. O que era difícil agora ficou fácil, muito obrigado e parabéns pelo vídeo.
Olá...Fico feliz que o vídeo tenha ajudado você. Aproveite sua impressora 3D e boa impressão. RG
At last i have my CR Touch working this video helped in some way but what i did was each time i adjusted the Z Offset i tried a first layer print and if it was to high i adjusted the off set lower and i did this for a while and now no clicking and its at just the right hight. The test i have done have printed out he best prints i have ever done also i did a update in the Cura setting in my Creality Ender 3 pro machine setting by adding this line after Home all axes:- M420 S1 Autolevel. The print out of 3d Benchy was the best one ever it was nice and smooth. The other thing i have to do is make sure the print head is at the bottom right hand corner before i do any prints then it does a auto home and then prints ok but after the print i have to move it back to that position. When i find out the problem i will get back to you. I forgot to say my printer is the creality ender 3 pro with the motherboard 4.2.7 and marlin 2.0.6 firmware with bltouch filament and i use glue sticks on the bed when its heated up to help with adhesive. This sounds a lot but iam thick and this works for me.
I'm glad you're figuring this out. It sounds like you're getting it to work. RG
very well explained, i saw many but often steps are a bit different. this makes more sense to me now. Also learned thanks to you there is a lower increment than 0.1 when scrollling below 😲. One thing I don't understand still is when do I have to do the bed leveing command G29 ? put it in the initial G-code of my printer before the homing command G28 or directly after ? And do i then need also to store settings so this gets stored into memory as well, or just do it at every print as it is "forgotten" after power off ?
I'm not sure if you've figured this out by now, but from what I've seen, it looks like the G29 code is added after the G28 in your slicer so it is automatically applied to every print when you upload it to your SD card.
I want to also setup and use OctoPi but have noticed that even if I plug a Micro USB cable in the printer since I have the newer 32bit 4.2.2 board, nothing happening - Is there a GCODE that needs to be turn on for the USB or a menu item I've missed in the screen
How do you bring down the probe ?
Great info in this vid. The way I did it was run a gcode file with M211 S0 to turn off negative z restriction. Tram up the board like usual with paper with no ABL enabled. Set z offset to something closer to zero than the actual distance since that will make it stop too early on autohome. That is better than having a very negative z offset and having it crash into the bed. Enable ABL and autohome. Use the z axis menu to see how much farther it needs to go to have it scratch paper. Add that distance to the z offset and try autohome again. After 2 or 3 adjustments it should be very close. It's better for it to be too loose than too tight since the ABL code will just adjust and you don't crash the head into the bed. That is, -2 mm is safer than -2.2 mm. Save setting and it should be good to go for using G29. I used firmware from compiled at firmwarefactory-net because the firmware that came with BTT was very buggy.
Hello Matt Jones. Thanks for the comment and the detailed explanation of how you set the z offset. RG
Fantastic info to be able to turn off that restriction. I recompiled my firmware to allow it, though under nearly all circumstances I obviously want it on! Wish I'd known your trick!
Hi I enjoy your videos and have learned much from them. I have a question, I installed the cr touch on my Ender 3 v2 and it works as advertised.I have Jyres firmware installed, My problem is that with a power loss it doesn't continue when selected on power return but starts the job over from the beginning. Also when I pause the print, turn off the power and continue later it seems to go to last x/y and start but always starts high and never contacts the print item. Don't know if this is normal? Thanks
Hi Norman...thank you for watching my videos. I'm glad that you're getting something out of them. While I do not have Jyres firmware installed what you're describing definitely does not sound normal. I did a bit research and apparently power loss recovery is turned off by default with the Jyres firmware. This means that you'll need to turn it on. Did you look on the Jyres menu to see if it has a power loss recovery option? The m413 S1 command turns on the power loss option. If you have access to a gcode terminal (there's one in Octoprint) you can check the status of the power loss option. To do so, all you need to do is send the M413 command. You should get the status of power loss in the form of "Power-loss recovery ON" or OFF. Here's a link to the Power Loss page in Marlin: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M413.html . Another thing: power loss will only work when you are printing from an SD card or a flash drive. If you're using Octoprint or remote software to send the gcode to the printer power loss recovery will not work. Power loss recovery requires the gcode to be on the local sd card because the printer periodically saves the print job state to the SD card or flash drive. I hope this helps. In case of a power outage it uses that information to resume the print. RG
Thanks for this. :D
I just got my creality ender3 and I also recently bought BL touch which is coming on the 6 of November but when it comes I don’t know what firmware to use and how to set the firmware
Good Video
It used to print in the center and no it's not because how I placed it or sliced it it keeps printing to the right I've been trying to use a Marlin software to get my 3D prints to print the center but my Marlin software when I upload something it keeps doing red errors I was going to see if you could do a video using a software octoprint to get your 3D prints to print the center it'll be really helpful if you could help me out thanks
how do you change soft limit switch in the mainframe? is that the basic mainfraim software of the software for the CR touche?
Thank you for the video. I just would like to ask if the bed has been lowered all the way before starting. This has been the best video I've seen. Thanks again.
Hello Ritacachia1416...I did not lower the bed all the way although some people do this before starting to calibrate. In my case there was no need. I'm glad that you found the video helpful. RG
How do you get the probe to come down. My probe is up only will come down when auto leveling
Thanks a lot. The best video I ever seen so far illustrating the science behind z-offset. Shouldn't you add/compensate paper thickness to the z-offset value?
Thanks for the positive words...as far as compensating for the paper thickness, you don't need to do that. The paper thickness is the distance you need to leave between the nozzle and the build plate. If you subtract the paper thickness the nozzle will hit the build plate. So just go with whatever number you get after going to the process I describe in the video. RG
unfortunately for me, after installing the ABL, I ran into issues with Thermal runway error. Im thinking since I zip tied the ABL cable to the wire harness that has the thermistor cable, I am thinking that as the gantry moves on the X axis, it may have been tugging on the thermistor cable also because I zip tied the cables together. Upon further inspection I could see the thermistor wire is exposed where the screw holds it in place, perhaps just wear and tear.
I was going to say if you could do a video how to get your Z limits switch at the right spot and your nozzle close to your 3D printer bed to get a first layer I've leveled my bed can you please help me out
Followed step by step, can figure out how to set abl and print at the same time, maybe I'm missing something. 😳 anyway I'm doing test squares and my bed in the middle seems a little low and the right front corner (facing machine) seems a little high. I don't know if I should turn bed down or use babysteps which I'm clueless about. Thank you for a detailed video.
Hi There...from your description it sounds like you still need to level your bed using the leveling wheels...the ABL helps with a bed that's not completely flat, but it doesn't help with a bed that's not level. That's something you need to fix with the wheels under the bed, going from corner to corner with a piece of paper, making sure that there is an equal amount of tension between the nozzle and the bed on all four corners. You should feel a bit of a pull on the paper, but you should still be able to remove it from under the nozzle. After leveling the bed using the wheels, do the Automatic Bed Leveling, followed by setting the z offset. Good Luck! RG
@@CreatewithTech thank you sir,I will definitely adjust that
@@scmafia7515 I just watched the video on your channel of the print and from what I can see it definitely looks like your bed is not even (need to level with wheels). Unless you've got a clog (which I don't think you do) the reason why it's not extruding at certain points is because the nozzle is much too close to the bed (left side) and too far off the bed (right side). Because the nozzle is so far off the bed on the right side the filament is not sticking.
@@CreatewithTech that makes sense, I'm curious as to what the numbers mean when you auto level the bed. I just leveled again, to the best of my abilities, and I will try again with video
Just bought ender 3 v3 se and z offset was set to -2.01 and my first layer was always strange (I'm completely new to this). Following this method I found z offset of -1.95 and first layer now looks much better.
Using an Ender 5 pro and just installed a cr touch, when I run the bed leveling it does the first 2 points, then it goes to number 3 but it goes completely off the bed into the left rail
Hello Roland...Sorry that you're having an issue. From your description, it sounds like your xy offset is not correctly configured in the firmware. Did you compile new firmware for the CR Touch installation? If you did, you may need to fix the xy offset setting and recompile. Here's a link to a video that will walk you through the process of compiling new firmware and properly setting up the xy offset: th-cam.com/video/PMG4bC9I3DA/w-d-xo.html Let me know if you get it figured out. Good luck. RG
Thanks so much
You're welcome.🙂
For some reason my Z Home is a full 7.4mm away from the bed, and my firmware doesn't allow me to move in any increments smaller than 0.1mm.
Ok, so what I didnt get Is at the very beginning... How did make the probe go down (so that it is extended) when you move your Z axis... Because in my Ender 3 Neo when i lower my Z axis the probe all the way up (way higher than the nozzel). So I cant do that... (In other words, the nozzel touches the bed first)
Hi there. In order to extend the probe I installed the OctoPrint BLTouch plugin which can be found here: plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/BLTouch/ . Just so you know though when you actually set your z offset you don't need to lower the probe. I did that in the video just by way of illustration, but this is not something that you typically need to do when actually figuring out the z offset. Thanks. RG
I already have a value in my “probe Z Offset”. Do I switch the value or add the value? I have an enter 5 pro and someone els installed my bl touch for me and now I needed to fix the offset after changing the nozzle
Hello Sarah -- in your situation you can either modify the already existing Z Offset value or you can reset it to 0 and start from scratch. I would personally just modify the already existing value first and see how that works. Another option is to start a test print and use the baby stepping option to recalibrate the value. If you do use the baby stepping option just be careful not to scratch your bed if the nozzle is very close to the bed. Whatever you do, just remember to save your new setting to eeprom by sending the M500 command or by using the save setting command on your LCD. Good luck. RG
Mine just started not working without a massive negative z-offset. Before I needed a 0.2mm positive offset, because my parts were squished (use a piece of paper to zero)... but then out of nowhere I can never get it to print without a -0.08mm z-offset and I haven't been able to figure out why. I bought a brand new Ender 3, but it doesn't have a x-offset option. Also, the slicers I use won't let me put in a z-offset anywhere above 0.27mm up + or - (cura and creality). Prusa does, but prusa has been a terrible slicer for me. The parts are just such terribly low quality with Prusa when they come out so much better with the others.
For some reason why I try to set my z offset it moves the head and I can’t adjust it to the number I need it to be because if I did it would smash into the bed
finally an explanation to why i cant get z to go minus values... how do i store my z offset if i have no configuration option on my lcd? my firmware is v 1018 and i got no autobed leveling probe.
Sorry for the late response. I'm not sure which printer you have, but there should be a place where you can store your Z offset on your LCD screen. Alternatively you can use an interface like Octoprint to set the z-offset information using the M851 gcode command. Here's the example from the Marlin website: Set with M851 Z-5.2 and define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -5.2. Here's the link to the page: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M851.html . Make sure you send the M500 command to store your values to eprom. I hope this helps. RG
For some reason I'm having trouble with setting my Z offset. i can't go negative when trying to move nozzle down on my Ender 5 pro, also tried your g code mode for oozing, still oozing as much.??
Hi Brian...The reason for this is because the Z limit switch is turned on in the firmware. I deal with this problem at 15:05...as far as the g code to prevent oozing is concerned it's pretty generic code so it should work. If you tell me what happens in your case I may be able to give you some suggestions. RG
Hi very thorough video, I have what maybe a dumb question, Will a gcode without the letter work or be ignored? Example M420, will 420 produce same result? Thanks
Hello...this is a very late response, my apologies. No, 420 will not produce the same result. The M420 is very specific...so you need to us the M to get the effect...RG
Thanks
There is a bug that affects some ender 3s. Z offset cannot be set. This is down to a poor performing sd card or the save command not being sent to the card.
Reset the machine to defaults and save. Turn the machine off. Format the sd card and re-insert. Switch on the machine and do the z-offset setting again. Save again.
What setting did you change to let your z-offset go into negatives? Did I miss that in the video?
Hello David Clawson...yes, I talk about this at 15:06. You basically need to turn off the soft limit switch by sending your printer the M211 S0 g-code command. I made another video that may help you with this th-cam.com/video/pj0kICk6DfY/w-d-xo.html . The way you send the g-code to the printer is with Octoprint or Pronterface. If you don't have this applications available you can do it using an sd card, which is what I discuss in the video that I gave the link to. Good luck!
I love this video, i need your help I just installed the CR touch on my Ender 3 Pro. i upgraded my motherboard to the BigTreeTech SKR Mini E3 v3.0 and have download the latest firmware and installed it. when i have the Z axis disconnect from the both ends (motherboard and the old stop) when i home my machine it will only do it in the X and Y axis and not in the Z axis. When i reconnect the Z stop and have the CR touch connect it will measure the distance from the best but print to far away from the bed. I need help trying to understand. Thank you
Hi Alex...I'm glad that you like the video. It means a lot. As far as your question is concerned, the first thing that comes to my mind is that you flashed the wrong firmware to the printer. So there are two firmware options that you can use with the CR Touch: 1. Firmware that doesn't use the CR Touch for Z homing 2. Firmware that uses the CR Touch for Z homing (this is where you remove the physical z switch from the printer). If you've removed the z switch from the printer (which from your comment you seemed to have done), then you need to install the "firmware-ender3-bltouch-for-z-homing.bin". If you haven't, you need to install the "firmware-ender3-bltouch.bin". Just in case you're wondering, the CR Touch uses the same firmware as the BL Touch. Here's the Bigtreetech Github page where you can download the bin files for the firmware: github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/tree/master/firmware/V3.0/Marlin .Just be careful when you test things and have your finger on the off switch in case something goes awry. Let me know if this works. Good luck! RG
@@CreatewithTech thank you so much for the explanation I was trying to understand the difference as well. Now it make sense. What would you recommend for which bin file to use?
Hi Alex...I'm not sure one is better than another. Personally I took off the physical z limit switch and I let the CR Touch do the Z Homing. Just be aware that if you choose that route, the printer will home to near the centre of the bed. RG
@@CreatewithTech thank you so much! I will try this route!
@@CreatewithTech I have a question for you when I use the regular bin without Z homing, and everything is connected at homes in the X and Y and Z but it does not home in the center so then I have to disable it so that way I can physically bring the extruder to the center and try and get the Z offset the Z offset as well when I say move the axis, it only goes to zero it won’t go negative. How do I fix this in order to get the correct Z offset thank you.
After definne your z offset you cant need do The bed leveling? The cr touch dont change config according your bed? I am ask, because my bed some times have one level in The right and other in The left. I Never see one vídeo say about running The bed leveling after The z offset configurations. Can you help me?
Yes, you most certainly can level your bed after defining your Z offset. In fact sometimes you need to level your bed again as you pointed out in your comment. However, if you do level your bed you'll need to configure your z offset again. This is because changing your bed's height (up or down) will impact whatever number you currently have for your z offset. So basically if you need to level your bed, you'll have to recalculate your z offset as well. RG
hi, i have watch several videos including this one, all of which do not discuss how the springs should be, should the springs be loosen or tighten? because When i tried to manually level the bed, one of the knobs was about to come off and it was still too far from the bed, I am using borosilicate glass (which does not warp), what is the recommended spring tension with Auto-bed leveling?
Hello Vincent Reyes...You've got a good point about the knobs. They should not be so loose that they're in danger of falling off. What you describe has happened to me as well. There are two things to consider when leveling a bed: 1. How level the bed is vs 2. How even the bed is. The BL Touch takes care of an uneven bed, but it has no clue about how level your bed is. Leveling the bed is done with the knobs, dealing with an uneven bed is done with the CR Touch or BL Touch. Now as far as the bed being too far from the nozzle when leveling, this is something you need to take care with your z offset...so basically go around three or four time with your knobs and level the bed. If the bed is too far from the nozzle when the knobs are secure, then you need to deal with that by calibrating your z offset. Now as far as the BL touch is concerned, what you need to do there is refine the z offset...if it's already good enough from when you do your leveling, then you should just leave it as is. I hope that what I'm saying is clear. Good luck. RG
@@CreatewithTech thank you so much for replying. I have tried tightening the springs all the way, then adjust the springs manually, I have notice the left /right rear and front right corner is till far away i wanna say about 0.5mm away from the nozzle. I might have to readjust the Y carriage plate, I did just replaced the wheels on the carriage plate. Do you know of any good books or PDF for servicing creality 3d printers?
@@CreatewithTech success, I had to 1. readjusted the x rail, 1A. I lowered the bed all the way at all 4 corners, 2. Now success :)
@@MrTurtlefan2 Excellent! Glad to hear that you figured out a way to make it work. Now have fun printing stuff! It's a great hobby. RG
@@CreatewithTech it sure, is, :) thanks again i am still making some adjustments to the Z-offset. :)
how did u get it to go from .80 to .85 when i move the turning knob it goes from .80 to .90 how do u get .05's (when setting the z offset not moving the z axis)
I have the same problem.
for some reason my z offset will not go below +000.0 it will not go to negative offset. its a ender 3 pro with bigtreetech skr mini e3 v3.0 just upgraded the motherboard and added the bltouch.
This is good, but I still can't get my Z to zero. I have set it about 50 times, but it still rides about 2mm above the table...no where near it. I'm wasting a bit of fillament trying to get this to work. Is there anything else I can check? I have an automatic leveler and it is at the top limit. Before I drill new mounting holes for the sensor, I wanted to ask.
Hello @kistler140...sorry to hear that you're having issues with this. When you say you can't get you Z axis to 0, do you mean you can't get it below 0, or you can't even get it to 0...If you can't get it below 0 it means that the Z limit switch is turned on in the firmware and you need to turn it off with the M211 S0 command...I go into this a bit at 16:34 in the video. Let me know if this helps. RG
Below zero. Put in the code: M211 S0, tried to set it to -2.35mm, but it didn't work.@@CreatewithTechAlso tried putting -2.35 in the slicer, but it didn't work.
ender seems to have more control of your settings compared to cr10
Hi there...which controls are you missing?
i can't lower it more then .1mm, my nozzle lands either too high or too low, i can't get that sweet spot, i must add i am new to this so i'm sure it's user error.@@CreatewithTech
how did you manually drop the probe on the CR Touch?
Hello....in order to extend the probe I installed the OctoPrint BLTouch plugin which can be found here: plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/BLTouch/ . RG
Thank you for that information. I'm really new at this stuff. If you don't mind I would like to ask another questionn. I installed the BLtouch plugin but I have no idea what the gcode would be for this plugin to work with my ender 3 Pro or where to find the gcode. Also, the motion options on the the control panel have disappeared since the install and I get my printer to home. Could you maybe steer me in the right direction to fi find it or learn about it? Thank you.@@CreatewithTech
I actually solved the home issue. There's a lot to learn and take in.
Moze Z on my ender 3 pro doesn't go to minus values. it drove me crazy.
Do you have any idea why my Ender 3 Neo Max sounds like a 747 taking off as soon as it's turned on? I'm talking before it has printed anything, before the fans would need to be going full blast? It's a brand new printer with not 5 hours of printing..I did notice it was set for Europe voltage out of the box which I found odd (220V vs 120). It's not affecting the print but it sure is loud! Thanks
Hi @wyattspop...I'm not really sure why your printer sounds so loud, but I can tell you that you need to flip the switch from 220v to 120 if you haven't done so yet . Doing so may help with the sound. I would definitely try. Let me know what happens. RG
So kind of you to reply (I'm Tommy) I did change the voltage, I have my first Ender 3 Neo in the garage so maybe having this one in my office, I'm simply not used to the sound level, maybe its typical? Easily solved by moving it out also, Thank you kindly...great vid@@CreatewithTech Are the fans always going full bore or is it like a PC and used as needed?
Hi Tommy...I don't have the Ender 3 Neo Max, but I believe that the hot end fan on that printer is on all the time and cannot be controlled via software. The way fans are used varies from printer to printer. The fan noise is definitely one of the down sides to 3D printing. Creality is not known for putting silent fans on their printers. RG
You are absolutely right, there was nothing wrong with my new Ender V3 Neo Max, I physically put them side-by-side with my Ender V3 Neo and the Max was somewhat louder,.but it was negligible since the Max is substantially larger.. @@CreatewithTech
I do find it odd that it runs the fans all on full bore the second you turn on the power...you would never want this printer in the same room with you@@CreatewithTech
At 3:15, how did you manually extend the probe to do this check? Are you using a custom firmware or is there a command in the control panel to do this?
Hi @brianvolpone2617...in order to extend the probe I installed the OctoPrint BLTouch plugin which can be found here: plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/BLTouch/
I have a problem, my printer is an Artillery sidewinder x2 and I couldn't find the option Z offset. I don't know if I am doing something wrong. (Sorry for my English)
Hello...Unfortunately I'm not familiar with the sidewinder, however here is a video that I hope will be helpful: th-cam.com/video/vowdKNIh0Z8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=RbZHj5WENRW_mpG0
Hi at 3:15 how to you bring down the probe thanks
Did you ever figure this out I'm having the same problem :(
Probably a dumb question, I'm not able to manually lower the probe on my cr touch. I got the firmware from creality, is there another update I need to install to allow that? Using an Ender 3 Pro.
Not a dumb question at all -- the way to do this is to use the Octoprint BL Touch Plugin -- here's some information on it: plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/BLTouch/ The only problem is that you need to have Octoprint installed to use it. If you do, just go to your plugin manager>Get More and search for OctoPrint_BLTouch. Good Luck. RG
Is the oozing of the filament normal? Mine does the same thing and it drives me insane.
Yes, it is normal. There is, however a way of making it stop. It's relatively easy using g-code. I'm planning on doing a short video on this soon. Unfortunately it's a bit too much to tell you how to do it in this response. I should have the video up in a week or so. RG
maybe i have something different? How do you get z in the - when using moving axis
mine goes to 0 and stops
Your soft limit switch is turned on. I talk about this at 15:05...if you turn it off it should work. RG
I see that now. After some messing around I see no reason to do that , I leveled bed manual, auto home goto 0 using motion goto config /z-offself (z lowers as i set) @@CreatewithTech
ok. its very simple but in my printer i can't go below 0.000 in any axis . Do you know why is like that ?
Hello Piotr Paderewski...did you watch to the end of the video? If your Z axis doesn't go below 0.000 it means that the z axis soft limit switch is turned on. This is to prevent your nozzle from hitting the bed. I talk about this here... 15:08 ....you'll need to turn off the switch with the M211 S0 command.
Can you please do a video how to download octoprint I've been trying to get my Z offset to work but it won't let me put it to zero I barely got started 3D printing I'd be really thankful if you could help me out with this so confused what to do🙂
Hi there rizkdark..I'm assuming that you mean that you can't lower the nozzle past 0. If that's the case, I made another video showing how you can send the M211 S0 command to turn off the z offset soft limit switch using an sd card. You can find the video here: th-cam.com/video/pj0kICk6DfY/w-d-xo.html . I do recommend that you eventually setup Octoprint (it's an excellent interface), but you don't need Octoprint to send g code commands. Octoprint just makes it easier. RG
@@CreatewithTech I watched the other video it was useful thank you but my thing won't go to zero I followed all the steps the video was going to fast I pause the video too I'm kind of confused still if you could still help me out that be helpful
@@rizkdark3684 I'm not really sure I understand what you mean when you say "my thing won't go to zero". Please explain a bit more. Right now I'm not really sure what the problem is. I would like to help you with this, but I'm not clear on the issue. If possible make a short video and post it on your TH-cam channel showing exactly the problem that you're experiencing and then post the link here. RG
Hello, how can I run the M211 S0 command without Octoprint? Please a tutorial video or something similar I'm desperate.
Hello Real Phillip...I'm sorry you're having difficulties with this. You can send the M211 S0 command to the printer using an sd card...the same way you send g code to do a print. I'll do a short step by step video in the next couple of days. Stay tuned. If you haven't done so yet, you might consider subscribing and hitting the notification bell so that you'll get notified when the video is released. All the best. RG
So I am having a issue that it won’t store the settings what am I doing wrong Ender pro 3 here with a CR Touch
Hi Chad Pisarski: Sorry to hear that you're having an issue storing your settings. I'm assuming that you're using an Ender 3 Pro with a 32 bit board, is that correct? Given that you've got the CR Touch installed I'm going to assume it's a 32bit board. Are you following all the instructions in my video regarding saving your values? Does your printer save the value until you turn it off, and then when you turn it back on it's gone? Did you install new firmware to get the CR Touch functional? Depending on which control board your printer has installed, you'll need to download or configure firmware to work with the CR Touch. Did you do this? Anyway, give me a bit more information and I'll try to help you as much as I can. RG
i to can't move z wont go lower 0.0, but i still dont understand this gcode m211 SO on my ender 3 v2
Hi There...I'm sorry you're having a problem with this. Once you send the M211 S0 g code command to the printer you'll be able to go below 0 to set you z offset. The easiest way to send the M211 S0 command is by using a web interface. If, however, your printer is stand alone you can still do it. I've got a video that shows you how. Here's the link: th-cam.com/video/pj0kICk6DfY/w-d-xo.html . Once you've set the z offset you need to turn the soft limit switch back on by sending the M211 S1 command. The link to the video above will show you how. Good luck. RG
Hi, good job, but when I turn off print my setup resets. What could be? Thanks
Hi Alessandro -- After doing the calibration did you save it with the G500 command? If you don't issue the G500 command whatever setting you've set up will be lost the next time you turn off your printer. The G500 command saves your new settings to EEPROM. RG
@@CreatewithTech thanks for your prompt reply where can i write the G500?
@@alessandrobicego7835 Hello Alessandro...If you have Octoprint installed you can send the G500 command from the G Code command tab. If you don't use Octoprint or a web-based interface you can save to eeprom on your LCD screen. Since I don't know what printer you have or what kind of screen you use I can't tell you exactly where to look. But somewhere on your screen's interface you should find the option to "Save to Eeprom" or something like that. So once you calculate your z-offset save it and it should remain on your printer when you turn it on again. RG
@@CreatewithTech thank you
I just installed Jyers UI UBL, BLtouch and MicroSwiss Direct Drive on my E 3 V2. For some reason I can’t not move the nozzle close enough to the bed to print. The Z off-set will not go any lower than 0.0
Yes, this is because you've got the soft limit switch enabled in the firmware . Go to the end of the video. There's a solution for you there.
@@CreatewithTech - I figured it out through the JyersUI firmware and was able to save the z off-set setting after dialing it in. Thank God I didn’t have to go about it by editing the firmware, because I have no idea where to begin with that! You really helped me figure it out and I appreciate your help. Much respect! 👍
@@damionchrist Glad that it worked out...Sometimes it takes a bit of time to figure things out. Have fun 3D printing. RG
@@CreatewithTech - Thank you kindly! 👍
Does the bed have to be leveled before doing this
Yes, you should do a manual bed leveling first and then set the z offset. If your bed isn't level your prints may not be as accurate as they can be, despite the z offset and a BL Touch. RG
How did you manually extend the CR touch probe?
in order to extend the probe I installed the OctoPrint BLTouch plugin which can be found here: plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/BLTouch/
@@CreatewithTech Read up on this and it appears I'll need to get a Raspberry PI setup for this printer
Great series of videos BTW. Best out there as you take small incremental steps stopping often to explain things in great detail. Thank you sir!!!
fo some reason when i adjust Z, it will not let me tune it to negative values and stops at zero, do you know how to remedy this? Thanks,
Hi JohnFuller804 ... If your Z axis doesn't go below 0.000 it means that the z axis soft limit switch is turned on. This is to prevent your nozzle from hitting the bed. I talk about this here... 15:08 ....you'll need to turn off the switch with the M211 S0 command. If you have OctoPrint installed it's very easy to do. If you don't have OctoPrint, you might need to turn off the limit switch sending a command to the printer using an SD card. I made a video here explaining the process: th-cam.com/video/pj0kICk6DfY/w-d-xo.html ...RG
@@CreatewithTech Thanks I'll give it a try!
I was going to say if you could help me with something please my 3D prints keep printing on the right I'm trying to get them to print in the center
Hello rizkdark...I'm sorry you're having this issue. I'll be happy to help but I need more information. Is it printing on the right because of where you're placing the model on the build plate in the slicer? Is your slicer profile properly set up (i.e. do you have the right size of the print bed in the profile). Did you change the firmware on your printer recently? Were you able to print properly before? If so, did you change something? Give me a bit more information and I may be able to help. RG
@@CreatewithTech no it's not because I put it in the wrong spot and no I did not have this issue it used to print in the center the 3D printer I have is a voxellab I updated the firmware to creality and I'm trying to make it print in the center it keeps printing on their right I'm trying to use Marlin to fix it I watched a video I went to travel limits and when I try to upload it I keep getting these red error messages on Marlin if you really helpful if you could help me hopefully this is enough information if you have any questions just ask me
for some reason my z offset will not go below 0 it will not go to - offset. its a ender 3 pro with bigtreetech skr mini e3 v3.0
Hi my ender wont allow me to make a - adjustment
okay i love the video from an understanding point of view, but the only way i can change my z offset on my ender 3 pro is by dropping the z down to 0 then heading over to probe z offset. while the nozzle is hot. i cant make my z axis go negative. let alone drop .025mm at a time
The reason you may be having an issue getting the z axis into the negative is because your z limit switch is turned on in the firmware. You need to turn off the z limit switch with the M211 S0 command. I deal with this in the video at 15:00 . Typically you can send the M211 S0 command using a terminal built into Octoprint or some such interface. If you don't have this available you can also use a simple SD card to send the command. I made a video on how to do this here: th-cam.com/video/pj0kICk6DfY/w-d-xo.html . I hope this helps. RG
@@CreatewithTech is this something you can do with the stock creality firmware? i was under the understanding that unplugging my z switch shouldve fixed this. i am running a cr touch aswell.
@@codymccoy9295 If you installed the CR Touch yourself, then you need to update to a firmware version that is specific to a printer using a BL Touch or a CR Touch. In other words, if the firmware you're using came with a machine without a CR Touch and then you installed a CR Touch then you need to update the firmware to account for this new add on. I'm not sure which control board (I've installed the Bigtreetech SKR Mini E3 V2 on mine) you've got on your machine so you need to do a bit of research to find out which firmware is appropriate for the control board on your 3D printer. Once you've installed the appropriate firmware you need to set your z offset by following my video. If your z axis will not go into the negative numbers it means that the Z limit switch is turned on in the firmware. This is a completely different thing from the physical z limit switch that you unplugged. The firmware limit switch doesn't allow you to go below 0 in order to prevent damage to the bed of the printer. Going below 0, is, however necessary when setting your z Offset, which means you need to turn off the firmware z limit switch. You do this with the M211 S0 command. This will allow you to lower the z axis into the negative number territory. Once you've set your Z offset and saved it to your eeprom, you simply need to turn the Z limit switch back on in the firmware by sending it the M211 S1 command. RG
How do you get the probe to extend?
In order to extend the probe I installed the OctoPrint BLTouch plugin which can be found here: plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/BLTouch/
I have sonic pad@@CreatewithTech
How can I bring the probe down to see when the probe touches the bed?
Hello Dieggo Lessa. I was able to bring the probe down using an Octoprint Plugin called OctoPrint-BLTouch...you can read about it here: all3dp.com/2/octoprint-bltouch-simply-explained/#:~:text=The%20OctoPrint%2DBLTouch%20plug%2Din%20was%20developed%20by%20jneilliii%20in,with%20no%20plug%2Dins) Once installed you'll have a button available in Octoprint to bring the probe down or up. Good luck. RG
@@CreatewithTech Can I asume that the 0 Z is where the probe touvh the bed?
@@DieggoLessa Yes, that is what should happen. At the 0 point the probe should engage with the bed. Now the nozzle is probably too high still...so what you need to do now is calculate the z-offset using the steps I discuss in the video. RG
Do you say what Z offset is?? Is it a number noting a difference in height between the nozzle end and the porbe end. Its it a fixed number? Is it stored or do you need to save it? Does it vary with X and Y values? How does it read vs the three figures on the home screen. Hoestly Im lost.
At 1.56 you say 'setting the z offset is tricky for a lot of people'.. this is the moment you could have said.. Z offset is..
3.18 'so now the probis down' - how did it get down?
@@sammorganmoore In order to set your z-offset you don't need to lower your probe I only did this in the video to explain what the z offset is. If you'd like to do this with your setup you can install the OctoPrint BLTouch plugin which can be found here: plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/BLTouch/ . This assumes that you have Octoprint installed...octoprint.org/download/ . You'll need a Raspberry Pi or a similar SBC for that.
@@sammorganmoore The z offset is the distance between the nozzle and the bed...it has to be the height of a piece of paper. Here's a defintion: Z offset is a user-defined print setting that allows the printhead to be positioned above or below the default Z home position (true zero point). In the video I talk about the true 0 point at 16:36, although I don't use those terms. In my case at the true 0 point the nozzle is still too high off the bed. This is why I need to lower the nozzle more (go into the negative numbers) to get it so that it's off the bed the height of a piece of paper, hence the use of a piece of paper. Hopefully this clarifies things for you. RG
@@CreatewithTech An aparent lack of clarity? My understanding is that the z offset is the value needed to put the nozzle at 1 papers height from the bed when z=0
Apparently the new Enders (I have an Ender 3 Max) don't let you put in negative values for the z-offset!
Hi @workingTchr. Did you try inputting the M211 S0 gcode command to turn off the soft limit switch in the firmware? I'm not sure how you would set the z-offset if you're unable to go into the negative numbers. RG
@@CreatewithTech My guess is it is a safety feature so the nozzle doesn't drag over the bed. I gave up on it after I heard about the Bambu printers and ordered one of those. But thanks. I just couldn't figure the Ender out.
@@workingTchr Yes, the soft limit switch in the firmware is a safety feature to prevent exactly what you mention. But you can turn it off with the M211 S0 command. Once you do that you can go into the negative numbers.
I've been using the Bambu Lab X1 Carbon for a few months now. I backed them on kickstarter. Did you get the X1 Carbon or the P1P? Both are great printers. I love the speed and the quality of the prints I get with mine. I'm sure you'll enjoy printing with it. RG
@@CreatewithTech Wow, 2 Ender owners talking about their new Bambu's. I got the P1P (budget) and plan to make an enclosure for it. I checked to see if Bambu had some "game-changing" patents and "Bambu" turned up nothing. So it's hard to explain how this came from out of nowhere.
I'm having a problem with my 3d printer the 3d printer I have is a voxelab aquila I downloaded a cruelty software by accident on my 3D printer now the screen is just Frozen I can't download any firmware can you please help me😢
Hello there. I'm sorry that you're having an issue with your printer. From what you're telling me I'm going to assume you've installed the wrong firmware onto the printer. I don't have a voxelab aquila, but what I would try to do is reinstall the original firmware. Here is the Voxelab page where you can download the firmware you need: www.voxelab3dp.com/download . Good luck. I hope you find a solution. RG
I can’t adjust my offset as fine as yours. I’m only able to adjust .0 not .00
I can't go below zero help
Doesn't work for me. With the paper under the hotend and when I reach 0.00 I still have a few mm of gap. I tried to remove my Z-Axis limit switch but when I power on the printer I get a random Z-Axis number sitting around 360.
Ender 3
BTT SKR Mini 3 board
Silicone mounts for the bed
official BLTouch
UniTak Direct Drive Bracket
Hi there...it sounds like you need to turn off the soft limit switch by sending your printer the M211 S0 g-code command. I made another video that may help you with this th-cam.com/video/pj0kICk6DfY/w-d-xo.html . The soft limit switch is is baked into your Marlin firmware and it's put in place to safeguard your build plate from being scratched. Did you try sending the M211 S0 command? You'll need to do this via the G Code interface on Octoprint or directly using an SD card. You talk about the Z Axis limit switch but that's something different from the soft limit switch. RG
@@CreatewithTech I had to leave for work and didn't finish the video yesterday so I just posted my question before finishing the video. I think you're the first person that has mentioned the M211 S0 gcode. I gave it a try and I was able to finally set my Z probe offset to -3.33. Every person I have asked just points me to compiling a custom firmware and I've tried but end up with things worse off or no difference. This has been a nightmare for the past three months but thanks to you I finally got this blasted thing going. Now to do this to my other printer.
Do you do any pay phone calls to help get this right? Some of the options you have are not in my menu.
Hello Nick P -- I'm sorry that you're having a hard time with this. I'm happy to try to help you out if I can and there's no need to pay. I'm not sure why the Z-Offset options are not available to you. We need to figure that out. What brand of printer do you have? Do you know what the firmware on the printer is? Is it Marlin? Every printer should have a function somewhere for adjusting the Z-Offset. Anyway, let me know what brand of printer you have. RG
@@CreatewithTech thank you very much. If you have a patreon account I'll send money to that, it's worth it to me. It's driving me nuts. No one else offered to help, so thank you so much. I have an Ender 3pro, I put a BTT Filament sensor on it. I added a TFT 35 touch screen and a BTT SKR E3 V3. When I added the CR Touch, now nothing with even print. It's either to close to the bed or too far. I just cant get it dialed in anymore. I've been trying for weeks and nothing works. Do you have any ideas where I can go from here. I'm really new at this. These firmware sites, I just can't figure it out. Maybe I just have the wrong firmware. I don't know what else it could be. I'll pay you, call you, whatever it takes to get this working again thank you
@@nickp385 When you added the CR Touch did you update the firmware? It sounds like it's a firmware issue. When you add a component like the CR Touch it's absolutely imperative to update the firmware. Have you updated the firmware before or is this something completely new?
@@CreatewithTech I think I did but like I said I truly know nothing about this stuff. I'm don't even know what files I'm grabbing. I even tried to take it off but then it's saying something wrong with ABL then stops working. I'm getting to the point where I was just going to buy a new one and it's only 2 months old. I don't know if I should look for the SKR firmware or the CR firmware. I should have never even touched it.
@@nickp385 OK, a quick question...when you turn on your 3D printer, does the CR Touch create a mesh of your print bed? Does the CR touch actually do something?
HOW DO YOU GET Z NEGITIVE ITS IMPOSSIBLE FOR ME HELP
Hello...I'm not sure which printer you're using or the firmware that it has, but if it's Marlin and your Z axis doesn't go below 0.000 it means that the z axis soft limit switch is turned on. This is to prevent your nozzle from hitting the bed. I talk about this here... 15:08 ....you'll need to turn off the switch with the M211 S0 command. If you're connected to Octoprint you can send the command through the terminal. If you're printing in stand alone mode then you'll need to use another method to send the command. I made a video about this here: th-cam.com/video/pj0kICk6DfY/w-d-xo.html . Good luck! RG
i downloaded a cz touch software and it now works with my cz @@CreatewithTech
I had so many issues with my Creality Ender 3 using marlin 2.1.1 as it didn't want to go below 0. What I had to do was undefine this command ( //#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS ).
I hope this helps someone.