Unified Bed Leveling Overview with Jyers Firmware on the Ender 3 v2
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 พ.ค. 2024
- In this video I give a basic guide to the Unified Bed Leveling versions of Jyers Firmware on the Ender 3v2. This is not an exhaustive guide, but hopefully enough to get you going if you decide to try UBL. I highly recommend you give it a shot.
***TIMESTAMPS***
00:00 - INTRO
00:52 - WHAT IS UNIFIED BED LEVELING (UBL)?
02:19 - BENEFITS OF UBL
05:43 - PREHEAT THAT BED
06:02 - BUILD THE MESH
07:06 - AUTO-TILT THE MESH
08:26 - MESH VIEWER
09:28 - MANUAL TUNING
10:39 - LEVELING SETTINGS
12:54 - BUILDING THE MESH WITH GCODE
15:24 - SIMPLIFED START GCODE
16:43 - OUTRO
***MENTIONED LINKS***
- Marlin Docs
marlinfw.org/docs/features/un...
- 3DMakerEngineering
www.3dmakerengineering.com/bl...
- Jyers Github
github.com/Jyers/Marlin - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
stock ender3v2 firmware: oh no I cannot see beyond 10 characters on a print file
jyers: I can literally play minesweeper on that screen
So much information is explained well and makes sense with the number of options of this firmware. Thank you! please keep releasing such informative videos. I think the biggest frustration is bed levelling for new 3d owners.
Thank you for being the first one to finally make an excellent video explaining UBL!!
Yes! This video explains UBL so well, thank you for sharing your knowledge! Happy printing 👍😎
This is a really great video. Thank you for doing this.
Thank you for describing all the settings.
just added UBL to my printer, really thankful for your start gcode commands!
Awesome guide man, thanks a lot!
At last !! simple instructions -- GREAT WORK !!
best info i got on this all week
This was very insightful, and I'll probably be returning to this video multiple times. :D
If you have any questions feel free to ask
So much great information. Fantastic great video
Amazing info!!!
My god finally a helpful vid on this subject. Everything is explained so clearly an everything is up to date. Great work man!
Thanks for you explanation! Still a little confused on what to implement in start G code. If I use your typical G code does it remake a mesh every time? I thought I make a mesh and store it to use over and over and then the G code would use that info and check for tilt. So does G29 P1 just check for tilt? Why do you use M500 to save? Wouldn’t I want it to redo for each new print? Sorry I’m just not clear on this.
Thanks for your help
I'm fairly new to printing and went for a Touch sensor as I've struggled on bed levelling. Even then, for a long time with my sensor and jyers - to the point of binning the whole thing. You're the first person to explain how the manual tunings, its completely changed my printing results. From nothing to at least something. Thank you
Hey all, just an update - I think I may have found the cause on this one.
Previously, I've followed other videos, doing the auto levelling followed by Z offset config (centre position). However, doing the manual seems to override this (or at least I think it does).
If I do manual point tuning and just leave Z Offset as it is (completely don't go near it), things are a lot better :) I hope this helps anyone with a similar issue
Thankyou very helpfull
Hi, Great Video.
Others ive watched never mentioned the gcode mods!
I have a question about your gcode listed below in the comments and what i actually need
29A or 420 s1?
I already had 420 s1 in my gcode from previously running manual mesh, didnt seem to add any mesh to my test print? front left was ok for 1/2 a square, rear left was just about ploughing the bed, back right was sky diving in mid air and i gave up before completeing the last 2 "squares".
I want to set the bed temp to 60 and the nozzle to 140 before the tilt test but i am confused by the 4 heater temps?
Thanks
Sean
M420 S1 and G29 A preform the same function. They just turn on and activate bed leveling. So either one will work
The four temps in the code perform different functions.
M104 Sets the Hotend Temperature
M109 Tells the printer to wait until the hotend reaches the M104 temperature
M140 Sets Bed Temp
M190 Waits for bed temp
From your test print. I would advise manual leveling your bed again, you still need to do that every now and then with the bltouch. Next, make sure you build the mesh, save it through the display, then make sure you have G29 L0 to load your saved mesh
Why don't I have the "Autotilt current mesh" option under my leveling settings? Everything else seems to be the same as in the video. I'm using the 5x5 version though.
Would you know if Jyers does firmware for any other ender 3 series......Max?
Thank you 👍
This is great, congratulations on the awesome content. I'm experiencing some issues on my Ender 3 v2 running Jyers 15x15 UBL. I adjusted the X, Y and Z offsets, I can generate the mesh on the menu, I can visualize it (and the visualization makes sense), I added the Gcode to the slicer, but whenever I print I still get very squished filament on the higher parts of the bed. I feel like the mesh is not being used, any insights?
Have you run a calibration cube? A 20mm x 20mm x 20mm xyz cube? If so, what height has your z axis(vertical) come out? The UBL is only utilized for the first 10mm of the print. After that, it is deactivated. What I'm wondering is that you z axis steps may be off, where it isnt moving the correct distance in the vertical direction and causing your layers to squish together
@@EB3DPrinting I should have mentioned it's happening in the first layer, after that it looks normal.
since you are generating the mesh through the menu, make sure you are saving it after it is generated. An extra step I like to do is save settings through the control menu. This makes sure everything is saved to EEPROM. another thing, when you load the mesh. make sure you are loading the mesh from the same slot you are saving it.
To double check, my UBL start gcode after generating the mesh is:
G28; Home
G29 A; Activate
G29 L1; Load
G29 J2; Tilt
@@EB3DPrinting I'm pretty sure the wizard asks to save the mesh to the EEPROM when it finishes probing, but I'll make sure to manually save everything. I'll also make sure to specify the mesh slot to load. Thanks for the insights!
@@EB3DPrinting please if you can help me with this. I run the calibration cube 20 x 20 x20 and aways the height vertical is about .30 less then 20mm. I ajust offset many times. what can i do to solve it? thank you for your great videos.
After you autotilt do you have to save mesh again? Also with levelling active do you need to modify the start GCode or does that force it on regardless? Good video thanks
I usually only tilt the mesh before a print, so I dont really save it. but if you did want to save the mesh after tilting it, you could add M500 to your start g-code after G29 J2. This would save the tilted mesh to eeprom before a print.
As far as leveling active, I am not 100% sure of that answer. I have never tried printing without first activating the mesh through the start g-code
I have an Ender3 v2 with Sprite Pro Extruder and CR Touch, I’m using latest Professional firmware. How do I adjust the probe points? I adjusted the mesh inset values of the X & Y min & max but it’s hard to figure the settings to cover the bed. Is this where I do it? The probe can physically reach the left, front and right edges and about an inch from the rear.
Great video Evan, very informative.
One question, if I don't want to probe the bead before every print is adding just G29 L0 enough or is this G29 J0 also needed?
Looking to print some 220x220 mm square part on the Ender 3 V2.
You would just need:
G29A
G29 L0
Why would you not want to probe the bed before every print? It is not creating a new mesh every time but creating a mesh and then before every print probes a few select points to account for movement/tilt. I'm currently using the 5x5 HS leveling and I think in going to go with the 15x15 UBL so I don't have to wait for the 25 points to probe before watching my first layer mess up just to have to redo the leveling again and again.
@@rileyneufeld7001 Edit: seems you understand this concept lol. Its 6am, just woke up, brain not quite working yet....
this is where G29 J'#' command comes in with ubl. You make one mesh of 225 probe points. That mesh is stored. Add G29 J2 after G29 L0. What J2 does is prove the bed in only 4 points, then adjusts(tilts) your 225 point mesh based off of those 4 points. This is what I use to use with Jyers before switching to klipper.
@@EB3DPrinting I had a question for you, I have been having issue with a high spot in my bed. I have tried Manual mesh, 5x5 and now 15x15 UBL and still cannot get it to lay down a good layer on the right side. Judging by my mesh it doesn't look super high (~.2mm) but enough to get extruder clicks. Do I need to clear my EEPROM? I haven't done that and don't know how to. Thanks.
@@rileyneufeld7001 have you tried rotating your bed yet? Try a 90° rotate to see if the probe will hit the bed in different spots. See if that helps
This is a great explanation of UBL, and answered my questions about it perfectly.
I have one more question, however: What fan duct is that on the printer in the video?
Sorry for the late reply
Fan Duct
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4375296
@@EB3DPrinting Thanks! I had found that one previously, was wondering if there was anything newer. Can I ask what material you printed it in?
@@the_bishop I used PETG. Mine is a modified version of that one where I have the 5015 fit in a little better to it's slot. I found the original would break after some time since the bottom part of the fan slot is so thin. I just haven't uploaded my remix yet
@@EB3DPrinting Ok, thanks. I have the step file downloaded, might beef it up a little myself.
Very interesting video. I noticed out of the corner of my eye you have a board attached to the side of your E3V2, what is it and how would I build one?
I think you are referring to the raspberry pi. This is a raspberry pi 3b+. I use that to run octoprint and printed an enclosure I found off of thingiverse
Thank You!
Thank you for the support! 👍👍
Hey man! Love the video.
Question though... when i run a G29 J or G29 J2 code directly after creating the mesh its completly different then the original mesh that was created (while the bed leveling didnt change one bit).
Any ideas why this would happen?
Running lastest Jeyers UBL 10x10 firmware
I have run into this as well. I think this is due to those points, for the G29 J and G29 J2. They arent originally hit during the UBL building process. The 10x10 for me, as an example, only probes 65/100 probe points, and the G29 J2 points are not hit, they are calculated into the mesh. When the G29 J2 command is run, it gets the actual value for those points, which is slightly different than the calculated value, so it adjust the mesh.
One way to verify this would be to go in and manually add those probe points after creating the mesh, and then run the G29 J, to see if the mesh changes. I just never bothered with it because my first layers have been so good without manually entering in those points.
Great video. Very explanatory. Thank you. I would like to know. What is the fan duct you use? The one you see in the video with a 5015 fan. Can you share the link with me please?
Sorry for the late reply
Fan Duct
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4375296
@@EB3DPrinting ¡Gracias! Muy amable
Great info. I use ubl in my heavily modified Ender 3. Using 3 slots in the memory of my skr with meshes for pla, petg and abs. I do use G29 L1,L2 and L3 and J2. Pretty consistent results so far, and time saving too.
The only thing I'm curious about is to replace the bed springs to a solid or fixed corners bed mount solution. Any suggestions? Great video!
I still use yellow springs on the E3v2, but on the E5+, I have switched to silicone spacers. While the are not a solid fixed mount solution, they do offer more stability than the yellow springs. Bed leveling is like a once a month issue how, and that's mainly due to making changes on the printer.
www.amazon.com/dp/B0894ZB546/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_PMMS5X2G49B5XZ8X0VW1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
@@EB3DPrinting Thanks! I'll definitely buy those silicone spacers.
@@EB3DPrinting I am using the silicon bed spacers and after a short period tyme, after a bed leveling, i have to relevel. The heat affects these spacers after a very short usage tyme
@@imfloridano5448 I have been using silicone spacers for almost a year now. I can't remember the last time I leveled the bed. I wonder if it may be a manufacturing issue.
So do I need to add all the G29 codes or just one of them?
Thanks for your video, finally someone explained how the menu works. But I have a few questions: Is there a disadvantage compared to normal abl in the way how far the printer can compensate? Can I simply switch to normal abl by flashing new firmware if I want? These changes you've shown (maually adjusting points, clearing z-offset etc), do they affect the saved mesh or the tilted one/ can I accidentally ruin my saved mesh with that? Sorry for all the questions, but I'm a bit scared to mess it all up
I would start by saying I haven't really noticed a significant difference between using the standard 5x5 mesh vs a UBL mesh. BUT, that is mainly due to the size of the Ender 3 bed. On my larger printers (ender 5+) I did notice a slight benefit going with UBL.
Next UBL vs 5x5 seems to have the same compensation tolerance. It has been my observation that you want your bed within 0.2mm of the high and low spot. It can be more than that, but I wouldn't go higher than 0.4mm. if the variance between high and low spot is >0.4mm, manual level your bed again.
Switching from UBL to 5x5 is as simple as flashing the firmware
Changing the mesh through the menu affects the mesh saved to the EEPROM slot you have currently loaded.
@@EB3DPrinting thanks for the fast answer! Might come back when I've installed it in the following days
@@EB3DPrinting sorry to ask you again, but what does ,,convert mesh to plane" do? Does it change the mesh/ how is it affected? Or might it be just visual?
@@JB-yu1vv I'm still not quite sure the purpose of that, but basically it converts the mesh into a flat surface at an angle from the high point to the low point
I use jyers firmware on ender 3v2 it is really good. I want to install dual gear extruder but I have to reverse the motor direction. Do I have to compile my own firmware to do this or can I do this with jyers firmware. Excellent video btw very informative
I mean you "could" set your E-steps to a negative value. So if you current E-steps are 92, set them to -92. But the only real way to change them is to change #define INVERT_E0_DIR FALSE to TRUE
Thanks very much for this great tutorial Evan.
I am unclear about one thing though ...
I installed the Jyers UBL 10x10 and a BLTouch, it works, it creates the mesh and saves it.
Now that the printer "knows the bed", do I still have to adjust the START G-Code for it to be actually implemented in each print?
Yes, you will still need to at least activate mesh leveling and load the saved mesh. So after the G28 in the start Gcode add:
G29 A
G29 L0
@@EB3DPrinting Great, very helpful answer.
As i understand from various discussions, the order doesnt needs to be G29A- G29 L0? it can start with G29 L0, followed by G29A?
One question about the "Activate leveling":
On the machine is an option to activate leveling, an option i often forget to activate. Does the leveling activates with the GCode from my slicer anyway, even when i forget to check the option on the machine?
I was curious about that too.
Great video, Evan! but I'm having an issue. When I click on manual bed leveling, it only does the left side. I'll click on the top right, bottom right, or center and the nozzle only goes to top left or bottom left. Any reason why?
What version of the firmware are you using? Also, one thing to try. Home the printer, then use the control>move menu option to move X, pick a value of say X=10, Have your finger on the power button. The print head should move to the right, if it moves left, kill power. Let me know how that works
Does this translate to using mriscoc as well??
A few questions: Do you have to manually level the bed before building the mesh? Do you have to manually level the bed in the future after setting up the ubl mesh leveling if you have tilting enabled in the starting g-code?
Unfortunately, yes. You still have to manual level your bed. While the ubl is effective at making up for variances in bed shape, it's not an end all be all.
Generally, you want to shoot for less than 0.2mm between the high spot and low spot of the bed. You can build the mesh, look where your high/low spots are, make adjustments accordingly, then tilt the mesh to see if the adjustments helped.
Now once you have it set up, with less than 0.2mm variance, you can get by with just tilting the mesh*.
*Now I say this, but have a few recommendations. Make sure you remove your build plate before trying to remove your part. Trying to remove your part while the build plate is still on your printer can mess up the bed level. Let the plate cool completely before removing the part. Try to put the plate back on in the same orientation every time. And lastly, to make the previous steps quite a bit easier, I'd recommend a magnetic PEI sheet as a printing surface.
This video was super helpful, both in helping me understand UBL and in getting me up and running with a BL-Touch and UBL. (I had been running Jyers-Default previously.) Thank you!
I’m having an issue that a few others have seen as well, and I’m curious as to whether you’ve experienced it. BL-Touch is hooked up to its dedicated port, I have mainboard v4.2.2, Jyers v1.3.5b-BLT-UBL-15x15. About half the time I auto-home, the BL-Touch is ignored as a Z-stop and the nozzle crashes into the bed; the motor keeps pulling the gantry down, which brings it out of square with the frame, messes with the tension on the X belt, etc. It’s super frustrating. I see some mentions of it on Reddit, but no one has a fix - did you per chance experience this, and if so, were you able to figure out why (and how to fix it)?
One question, when you auto home it, does it try to home in the center of the bed, or the front left corner?
@@EB3DPrinting Homes X and Y and then moves the probe over the center of the bed and begins descending.
@@daver3k Ok, the next thing I would check is to make sure the wires are in the correct position in the connectors.
smith3d.com/ender-3-v2-bltouch-firmware-installation-guide-by-smith3d-com/
Does the probe check it self when you power it on? Probe tip goes in and out 2 or 3 times?
@@EB3DPrinting Probe does complete the self check, yes. I'm using the Creality-branded kit for 32-bit boards, so it's got a BL-Touch v3.1 and a wiring harness that plugs directly in to the 5-pin BL-Touch connector on the motherboard (mine is v4.2.2). The wires aren't crossed in the wiring harness connectors, so the pins map correctly. I've tested the wiring harness with my multimeter and I've got good continuity on all five pins. I've also attempted to rule out interference by running the BL-Touch completely away from the printer - I had it plugged into the motherboard but heading out and away, and manually triggered the pin with my finger once the gantry started descending. At this point I feel reasonably confident that it's not a wiring or interference issue.
What's weird is that it's intermittent - sometimes the BL-Touch seems to send (or the motherboard/firmware correctly interprets) the "home" signal, the gantry stops, rises a few mm, and then slowly lowers again. But more often than not, the BL-Touch goes red but the printer keeps driving the gantry down, running the nozzle into the print bed. I'm not the only one having this issue, but it's obviously not happening to everyone either. If it correctly homes - and it sometimes does - then I'm able to go create a new mesh, tilt it, start a print, etc - but it's only correctly homing maybe 1/3rd of the time now.
I do really appreciate you trying to help me troubleshoot this, as maybe you'll think of something that I haven't, or your experience will help you see something that I don't, but at this point after having checked and re-checked my work a dozen times, I think there's something wrong with either my mainboard, the BL-Touch itself, or (less likely?) a bug in Marlin or Jyers.
So you've never seen this behavior? Do you have it wired to the 5-pin connector on your mainboard, or are you wired into Z-endstop?
@@daver3k sorry for the late replies, life is hectic for me at the moment. I have not had or see this kind of issue before. Usually it's the opposite where the z axis just keeps raising.
But, I havent used jyers or marlin since my last e3v2 video, I switched over to klipper. So I'm a bit rusty with it.
I would agree that it may be a firmware/mb issue. That said, have you tried older versions or jyers, or other versions of bltouch firmware? You could try installing creality's bltouch firmware. I use/used jyers 1.3.2 firmware the last time I used jyers. Last time I used it, there was an issue with multi-color filament and m600 not working.
One last thing I want to add. I will say you seem to know what you are doing, but just in case. Do you have the bltouch bracket installed correctly? Meaning that the bltouch tip extends below the nozzle tip?
I'm having issues with a new 4.2.2 using the GD32 MCU. But its a pro not a V2. I realize I'd have to change the screen type, but would this work on a pro? I obviously won't have that screen but want al the features. Thanks.
The stock ender 3 pro screen will work with klipper. It'll look different, but still function fully.
As far as the processor goes, I believe gd32 processors are supported. You'll just have to pick the appropriate processor when building the klipper.bin file
Will the mesh values be added to the z (layer height) as the print progresses and will this be displayed?
Yes, the z adjust itself to follow the contour of the bed
This typically isn't displayed because the adjustments are very minimal, typically less than 0.01mm
I flashed UBL 10x10 BL touch on my 3V2. Created the mesh and saved it in slot 0. When I used the Prepare>move function to move the extruder in various x,y coordinates and z = 0 for testing, the clearance between the extruder and the bed varies as if the mesh didn't exist. Does the manual move ignore the mesh? Will the mesh apply to an actual print? How do I verify the mesh's accuracy after a mesh is created?
One thing to try, sometimes the save mesh after building the mesh can be a bit finicky. So go into Control>Save Settings, then go back to manually editing the mesh, see if that helps
so having same issue as user bloew where the mesh doesnt seem to be used, i did a cali cube and all axis are good. if i go into manual tuning and go to mesh z value its usually off as in the bed is to close to the nozzle,. geat video and helped understand a lot
Did you ever find out anything? I have the same problem
@techno_letsgo seems I was having adhesion issues, where I thought I was to high was due to poor adhesion. So when I was trying to get closer I was to close. Redid level then mesh then used something I swore I wouldnt...glue stick.. problem solved been doing numerous prints since
i have a bltouch on my ender 3 v2 im just using the normal 3x3 right now but it doesn't compensate the z axis while printing its like its not loading the mesh it made. i have g29 after g28 I've tired 420 s1. should i try the ubl bed leveling? im ready to just pull my bltouch off and go back to manual leveling after every print. the bltouch does absolutely nothing.
Without having the printer in front of my, it's hard to tell what might be the problem. I see you typed 420 S1, Im sure you meant M420 S1. This would only not work if your bed mesh isnt saving properly. My three suggestions are:
Make sure to have the bed level before running the mesh. I know, the bltouch is supposed to help eliminate the need for bed leveling, but there is an extent to which it can compensate. If your high point is greater than .2mm and your low point is below -.2mm, I'd say re level your bed
Second, when building a mesh at the printer with a display, I find it better to double save. After the mesh is built, it will prompt you save. Then back at the leveling screen, there is an option to save current mesh, select that as well.
Third, I would stick with G29 after G28, instead of M420 S1, it takes very little time in the grand scheme of things to build a new mesh before every print. I would also try a 5x5 before UBL to see if that helps things. 3x3 is not as consistent as 5x5, for me anyways
Thanks for this video and explanation, but why such low resolution video?
Also, I may have missed it, but I did not see you indicate which specific firmware you had loaded.
I just uploaded, HD is still processing
Firmware can be found here:
github.com/Jyers/Marlin/releases
I am using the 1.3.2 version of E3V2-UBL-BLTouch-10x10-HS-v4.2.7.bin
I have a question and maybe some other people are running into this issue. I cannot get the board to get close to black. I can get it all red within .08 but it’s not black, it’s a light ish red, around .25- .30. I’ve tried so many bed leveling videos but I cannot get it to print without having the extruder too close or too far from the bed. I have my beginning G code running a auto tilt with 4 probe points. Any thoughts you might have? Could manual tuning be the solution?
Are you setting your z offset before running the mesh?
@@EB3DPrinting I’m not, I make sure to zero it out before
That's more likely the problem. You have to set the nozzle height(z offset), before leveling. The z offset is the difference in height between the bltouch tip and the nozzle tip
Hi, great info! I could not find any info about 'convert mesh to plane' , but as I watched your video, I think I understand that on an ender 3 v2 (with glass plate) you actually always have to do this? At the end you talk about sharing your start end end gcode, but i could not find a link to this. Thanks in advance!
Here is my CURA start Gcode:
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; start preheating the bed
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} T0 ; start preheating hotend
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; heat to Cura Bed setting
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} T0 ; heat to Cura Hotend
G28 ; Home all axes
;G29 ; Auto Bed Level
;M420 S1 ;
;G29 L0 ;
;G29 J2 ;
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish
CURA End G-Code:
G91 ;Relative positioning
G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit
G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z
G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out
G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more
G90 ;Absolute positionning
G1 X0 Y{machine_depth} ;Present print
M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan
M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend
M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed
M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
As far as the convert mesh to plane. To be honest, I never use it. I quite honestly do not see the purpose, as you take the full 3d contour of the bed surface, which creality's glass plates are known for their uneven surfaces, and make it a flat plane. This would cause the nozzle to not follow the contour of the bed along the z-axis leading to an inconsistent first layer.
@@EB3DPrinting does this work on the v2 aswell?
@@cardinalpawn6467 yes
@@EB3DPrinting do i need to put in the text?
How would you get the entire mesh viewer surface black? Wouldn't that mean your physical bed would need to be unwarped?
Yes, it would mean your bed surface is quite flat. I think black is within -0.05 - +0.05 variance from high to low
can u show how to calibrate it correct with the bl touch ? (maby with probe, and z offset) Thanks!
I have a few videos I'm working on currently, if I can squeeze in a quick offset set and ubl level, I will make a vid
@@EB3DPrinting thanks!
Question - will having a z- offset applied before probing throw things off? Should that wait until the print actually starts?
No, the z offset doesn't affect the bed mesh. The z offset stays the same no matter where on the bed the nozzle is. What the bed mesh does is tell the z stepper how far to move the x gantry up or down to keep the z offset the same.
@@EB3DPrinting thanks! I had a lot of trouble the first time I tried UBL with a cr-touch. I'm going to try again with your video.l
@@EB3DPrinting that all said - do you recommend running the mesh before applying the z-offset?
@@MatthewOSullivan no, you should apply the z offset first
If I created a mesh and have bed leveling activated. Do I have to have any special G-Code for my print to use the mesh?
Yes, you still need the start gcode in order for the printer to use the mesh
G29 A
G29 L0
G29 J
How do you get the purge sequence so close to the edge?
I have my bed dimensions set to 230x230. Then my x purge line at x 0.1
Fantastic video, thank you. I have an Enders 3v2 with a glass bed and the new CR touch using Jyers Unified Firmware. When I view the mesh the right hand is red ,middle is black and the left side green. Is it possible to help me out please with the bed levelling, as a 78 year old pensioner who is just getting into 3d printing it would be very much appreciated.
Thank you.
Bill M8-)
Scotland
So when viewing the bed mesh, the colors are indicators of the bed level. Red means that area is below tolerance, black means that area is within tolerance, green means that area is above tolerance.
So in your case, since the left side is red, turn the left two bed knobs 1/2 a turn clockwise, then turn the right two bed knobs 1/2 turn counterclockwise.
Next, under the leveling settings menu option, change "Tilting Mesh Grid Size" value to 2
Back out of that menu, scroll up to Auto Tilt current mesh, then run the auto tilt. After auto tilt is finished, scroll down to mesh viewer and see the new changes to the mesh.
Given the nature of creality's glass plates, you will not get a perfectly black mesh, the goal is to get the mesh to acceptable levels. So if your highest red value is below 0.2 and your highest green value is below 0.2, then your mesh is acceptable.
Thank you the bed is nearly all the same colour. Please Stay Safe
I just installed the UBL 15x15 firmware and started the mesh build, but I forgot to check if I need to set my probe offset first, I remember setting that on the previous firmware at some point... dunno if that's going to wreck this mesh or something?
I would set the z offset first before setting anything else that way you don't forget and mess up the bed by starting a print with an incorrect offset
@@EB3DPrinting thanks. I checked it and it was about 5 or so mm out in each direction because I’m not using the stock mount. Shouldn’t make that much of a difference to the mesh hey
@@GlenEdwards may not make much difference to the mesh, but can affect your mesh limits, could cause the print head to move outside it's range of motion causing your stepper motors to grind
people say that need to preheat bed and nozzle before leveling. can someone tel why is it important to preheat nozzle? as far i can see nozzle heat has nothing to do with bed leveling unless your nozzle is the tool that measures bed level. in my 3d printer bed leveling happens in between bed heating and nozzle heating.
You do not need to heat the nozzle for bed leveling, only for adjusting the z offset. This accounts for heat expansion. I typically heat my bed to printing temp, then level the bed. Next, heat my nozzle to about half of my printing temp to avoid oozing when setting the z offset.
ive been using it smoothly for the past while. specifically the 10x10 hs version. though for some reason it only probes like 68 points out of 100.
This is a known issue and something I pointed out in my other jyers video. It happens because the probe can not physically reach all points of the print surface due to the nozzle offset. It will end up missing some of the back and right probe points.
You can work around this by manually setting each of the missed probe points the same way you would set the z offset, just at the different points around the perimeter of the bed.
Ive not bothered with doing that as Ive found that using the G29 P3 command does a decent enough job to guestimate the missed probe points.
@@EB3DPrinting yea ive been using g29 P3 as well and im always surprised when it think a single point in the corner is super high since it never went over there and the other values are all pretty normal haha. Thanks for your response. glad its not just me
Newbie here do you need the bl touch to use this mesh leveling?
No, Jyers offers a non-bltouch version of UBL bed leveling. It is built the same way manual mesh is. Only different being that you dont tilt the mesh before every print
@@EB3DPrinting thank you so much for the info… will try it thanks
I’m having an issue where after it finishes probing and I “save” the EEPROM it doesn’t show up in the sd card. Don’t know if it has something to do something with formatting.
EEPROM doesn't show up on the SDCard. EEPROM is the flash memory on the printer's mainboard
@@EB3DPrinting Gotcha, based on this when I begin a print using the start G-Code you posted down in another comment it should pull it and compensate accordingly.
@@j.riefkohl1965 yes, if using the proper start gcode. It will activate, load the mesh from eeprom, then tilt the mesh for current bed, then begin the print
@@EB3DPrinting Got it working and if not for your video I would've thrown the BLTouch at a wall.
@@EB3DPrinting restored my PC, forgot to save the gcode somewhere, couldnt find this video and was going crazy cause i couldnt remember how my gcode was set up
SO i set up my g-codes as you had them here, after it hits all the tilting points it just sits there and doesnt start printing. starting to get frustrated, any help would be appreciated !
Make sure you dont have a stray or missing semi-colon somewhere after the G29 J command. If youd like, you could post your start gcode below and I can look it over
@@EB3DPrinting : Ender 3 Custon Start G-code
G92 E0 A Reset Extruder
G28; Home all axes
G29 A
G29 LO:
G29 J2
G1 22.0 F3000 ; Move 2 Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 20.3 F5000.0 ; Move
to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 20.3 F1500,0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 XO, 1 Y200.0 20.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 20.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
Gl 22.0 F3000 ; Move 2 Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X5 Y20 20.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish
@@townsend9294 from what you copied, you have an o instead of a 0 for G29 L0. You also have an o after a G1 X command. Change both of them to 0 zero and try
@@EB3DPrinting so i changed everything like you said, made a print went to start another print and it started doing the same thing. but if i restart the print like 9-10 times itll randomly work.
@@townsend9294 Copy this start G-Code into your slicer and give it a try
G92 E0 ;
G28 ;
G29 A ;
G29 L0 ;
G29 J2 ;
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;
G1 X1.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ;
G1 X1.1 Y100.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ;
G1 X1.4 Y100.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ;
G1 X1.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ;
G92 E0 ;
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;
G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ;
what fan duct did you use?
Fan Duct
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4375296
I'm using the 3 x 3 with a slightly warped bed. I can't seem to get it to compensate in real time during prints
Are you using manual mesh, or bltouch? Do you have M420 S1 after g28 in your start gcode?
I had an issue with 3x3 as well, I went with 5x5 and it worked much better
@@EB3DPrinting yep I have bl touch and m420 in the code of my test print. I'm gonna try 5 x 5 next, then ubl once I get the leveling down.
@@cody967 if you have a bltouch, just try g29 command to build a mesh before the print. If you dont have a mesh saved to eeprom, that could explain why it's not following the contour of the bed
need to make a version for the touchscreen
I am having a hard time with UBL 10x10…. Mainly with regards to z offset I think… I had my z all dialed in, spent a day printing things with really good prints and no failed prints… the next day I can’t get a first layer at all and this is before touching any settings… I’ve re ran bed leveling, re ran z offset test prints. Get it pretty good but then try to print a large print or a bed level test print and it seems like the printer is not following the bed… can clearly see my first layer getting very thin in my high corners…. And my high corners are only 0.015 higher than a nice flat spot all through the middle.
Mainly just venting here lol…. Spent an entire day running ubl and z offset test prints to have that all go smooth but then when I try a large print just failure lol
And on a side note… I saw a video showing that jyers went up to 300c for the hot end…. Well mine still only goes to 260c??? Don’t have a metal hot end yet so not the end of the world here but any idea how I can get above 260c on jyers for when I do get a metal hot end??
what is your start gcode like for bed leveling?
also as far as temp, that im not sure of. I would think you would need a custom version of jyers for 300C because stock printers do not support going that high, and for safety reasons, I could see them not implementing that on "stock" jyers configs
@@EB3DPrinting Start G-code was set up following your video… that all seems correct… bed temp used was 65c for leveling and setting z offset….. I have a pei build plate… it was very nice and flat but I guess it or the magnetic bed has developed a bit of a warp… currently trimming the bed out with some aluminum tape…. But it wasn’t very bad anyways…. All corners were about 0.02mm higher than the middle. I was expecting the mesh to be able to follow that but it doesn’t seem like it is.
It’s not a big deal for 90 percent of prints that don’t take up most the plate but wanting to do a few prints that do take up most the plate lol.
And I brought up the temp because a different TH-camr (Victor) can’t remember his last name showed his printer going to 300c with jyers and said it was a benefit of the firmware, with the disclosure to have metal hot end and thermistor before going that high
im probing using this firmware and its saying it will probe 255 points is that right? or is something messed up?
If you use the 15x15 mesh. It can probe up to 225 probe points. It may not reach all of those, but it will more likely probe 175+ points. It will take 15-20 min to complete. You only need to do this once, as you can then tilt the bed mesh with as little as 3 probe points before each print.
To me, this is way excessive for a small 235x235 bed. I personally only use the 5x5 mesh and do not have any real issues with first layers
@@EB3DPrinting ah thanks, i guess i didnt realize that it was 15x15 points when i was downloading the firmware that makes alot more sense now
HI, this can be done without a probe, is it better to chose the manual mesh firmware?
It can be done without the probe, but it will be built the same way as you would a 5x5 bi linear manual mesh. It will not look like how it does with the probe. The difference between manual UBL mesh and manual bi linear mesh is how the bed map is calculated. You also have the option to tilt the UBL mesh before the print.
@@EB3DPrinting manual mesh Will then be more user friendly i guess. Thanks!
@@zierbeek not necessarily. Manual UBL and Manual Bi linear meshes are built the exact same way. One key feature with UBL is you can manually tilt the UBL mesh before each print which only takes a minimum of three probe points. This would help increase mesh accuracy between prints.
Unless you plan on doing a completely new manual bi linear mesh before every print
@@EB3DPrinting allright, thanks for thé clarification!
@@EB3DPrinting a video about silencing thé Ender 3 v2 possible? :)
When I click "Create Mesh", it homes, then it starts probing the bed, but it does all the probing in the same spot on the bed, dead center.
When finished, I save it, but then no matter what I select it flashes "probing failed". This printer has been unused for a while and was recently moved. Once started it had this issue while running E3V2-UBL-BLTouch-10x10-HS-v4.2.2-v1.3.1.bin and after upgrading to E3V2-UBL-BLTouch-10x10-HS-v4.2.2-v2.0.1.bin the same issue persist.
It leveled and printed just fine before sitting for 7 months unused.
Any Ideas?
could the BLTouch be bad?
could it be that something got knocked around, so I should just start over with settings and leveling? (i don't remember everything I did before to get it printing good). I selected restore defaults, deleted all mesh and leveling settings.
But when I select "Create Mesh" it homes the axises and then it just probes the center of the bed 100 times. It asks to save, but then it tells me "Probing Failed"
Thanks
Have you tried other firmware versions to see if they probe correctly? Like 3x3 or 5x5? I would check your connections on the bltouch. Make sure your offsets are set correctly. Does the printer move properly, like homing and manual leveling menu?
which version of the firmwere are you using?
E3V2-UBL-BLTouch-10x10-HS-v4.2.7-v1.3.4.bin
Confused about convert mesh to plane - I get what its doing - I think - but why do it?
I am in the same boat, which is why I dont use it. I just build the mesh, then use G29 J2 to tilt the mesh before every print
you got a link to that test print?
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4736317
Here ya go. Even though this is for the CR6-SE, it will work for the E3v2 since they have the same dimension build plate. This is the best leveling test file I've found to work.
@@EB3DPrinting Thank you!
I must be missing a fundamental step somewhere. I followed your steps and it start printing my test print 5+mm off the bed. What am I missing? lol
There can be quite a few things going on. Is it just the purge line that prints off the bed?
@@EB3DPrinting It was. I adjusted the Z offset, and it helped. I'm still running into issues, though. I've done everything, added the GCode and still can't get quality 1st layers. It's like it doesn't use the mesh that I tell it to load and do a tilt check on (even though I've confirmed all the right gcode is there). I swear I'm getting worse quality prints trying to use this, than before. So frustrating. I thought this would help account for all the micro bed variations, where I just can't seem to get the bed level enough.
@@Cw0707 being completely honest, it's a bit overkill for ender 3 style printers. I use the 5x5 HS mesh with fantastic results.
So you need a BLtouch?
No, you can use the default version, or one of the manual mesh versions. They do not require a bltouch
Everything works freaking great as long as you dont have a Micro Swiss Direct Drive with an all metal hot end. I can edit the source code firmware to adjust bed temp, travel stops, and steps but I cannot get my Ender 3 v2 to run correctly now. Feel like I spent $100 on upgrades I cannot use and are forced to stick with a precompiled. Hardest part is getting the bed leveling to work with custom firmware. I cannot see the configuration.h file for basic settings.
You shouldnt have to do any firmware editing to get this to work with the MS DD most of the settings that change are able to be edited on the printer (x/y/z offsets) or through slicer(retraction speed/distance)
@@EB3DPrinting I’m fairly new to this. Is there a video for reference? I looked for and Ender 3 v2 with Micro Swiss Upgrades and they are all just putting the components on. Had nothing to do with after installation.
@@jerryhoward614 I dont know of a guide per say, but if you follow the instructions on the last page of MS install docx, that should help get you started
cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1210/0176/files/Micro_Swiss_Direct_Drive_Extruder_For_Ender_5_Installation_Instructions.pdf
firmware E3V2-*-BLTouch-*-v4.2.7-v1.3.4 not working with adapter bridge for bltouch , creative stock firmware the is a choice of with or without adapter.
now g29 doesn't work
z axis does not go down.
can you provide the same firmware for the bridge adapter
?
thks in advance
john
That could depend on how you have the bltouch connected. If you have a two plug bltouch instead of the official single plug, check the photos here to make sure its connected properly.
smith3d.com/ender-3-v2-bltouch-firmware-installation-guide-by-smith3d-com/
I guess you don't need G29 P3 in start code? That's done automatically.
Not if you built the mesh using the printer. Jyers firmware does that.
I still cant get my v2 to take the software...
Make sure the SD card is FAT32 formatted. Make sure the SD card only has the firmware on it. Make sure the firmware has a unique name, try to rename the bin file. These are just some simple suggestions as I don't know what all you've tried yet
@@EB3DPrinting That happened to me as well , but by just having the bin file it loaded fine. thanks
does it worth it?
In my opinion it is. You build the mesh once, then just tilt it before every print. It does seem to work better than the standard mesh. Another plus side is you can build multiple meshes. So if you use a PEI sheet and a glass bed, you can have a mesh for each
@@EB3DPrinting yes i do use for a while now but i don´t notice that mutch diference . Only in time! is a shame that firmware only can save 2 meshs
I like your vids and appreciate the info but it sounds like I'm listening to a computer talk. Can't do for more than a couple minutes
Lol how do you think I feel having to listen to myself when editing these videos
@@EB3DPrinting Haha! If you find a way to dial up the enthusiasm a little I guarantee your subscriber numbers will sky rocket. Your info is very thorough. You just need to work on presentation a little. Again not trying to be mean. Just being honest. Keep up the great work
@@patricknolan797 no, I appreciate the feedback and I agree. It's one of the main reasons I don't push for likes/subs and Patreon. Thank you for the encouragement though, I will work on improving it in future videos
As usual nobody talks about the leveling active tick box…..what is it there for? It appears to be a secret……nobody ever talks about it.
It basically is an onscreen prompt to send M420 S1(S1 being active, S0 being deactive) to the EEPROM. This means that if you were to print from the SD card, it would load the last saved mesh. Typically this is a non-issue because most start gcodes have M420 S1 or G29 L0 in them
@@EB3DPrinting Thanks for that I have been trying for a while to get that confirmed.