1. Keep it stock 2. Oil change every 3,000 miles 3. Let the car warm up for a few minutes before driving 4. Don’t drive over 50% throttle until the oil temp is at minimum 180 degree. 5. Keep off boost a few minutes before reaching your destination 6. Don’t immediately turn off your car when you park- let it cool for at least 30 seconds to avoid heat soaking the turbo 7. Do your scheduled maintenance!
this would be true if the turbo was mounting on the top of the motor. heat rises. the fa's turbo is mounted on the bottom. everything else i agree with.
Exactly brother. I have been saying that the 4 years I have been in this Subaru community. I admire all of the modifications our guys and gals due but my base model WRX aka Ocean Blue will always be stock. My next car will be the new STI but I'm in a sweet spot. I have to see if the new motors perform well. I hope they are fuel efficient.
@@paulmarsdensr1095 Agreed. I recently drove a friend's Stage 1+ FA20 WRX and honestly it doesn't really seem worth it to me. He has an OTS tune via accessport, catback, and an STI short shifter. I don't know if my expectations were high or not but it really wasn't that much better than stock. I'm happy with how the car performs and honestly I'm okay with keeping it stock and driving it for a long time.
@@jonm.678 Amen brother me too. I'm a retired US Navy sailor 20 years and I worked on aircraft. I retired in 2007 . I'm 51 years old. I get kids or whoever trying to race me all the time it's hilarious. I put a vortex generator on and OEM foglights on my 2017 base model WRX. When you start doing all the mods you could really run into problems if you don't know what you are doing. Stay safe brother 🙏. Subies forever. I will be purchasing the new STI. After I do my research of course. 😀
This could apply to any car really. This is basic stuff. I dont even have a WRX or plan on getting one but, I can definately apply some of this to the car I have now.
@@MrNorotic I suppose to a degree every car has quirks to look out for. But, I've owned a 2012 V6 camaro since new, I literally have had nothing that needs to be tended to apart from oil changes, tires, and brakes after 80k miles (yes, the OEM brakes lasted that long, but to be honest i should've probably changed them at like 60-70k). So, my point is that some cars don't have much to "look out for" - they just run without issue for the most part. Even with all the stuff in this video, in the end I still want a WRX for winter 😂
@@mattm2339 What the hell are you even talking about? Warming up the car, and using proper octane fuel is too much? Oil separator is common thing for all Direct injection engine cars. All of them have issue with carbon build uo, it has nothing to do with Subaru being some black sheep. It has no issues especially compared to how shoddy EJ25 was(which was the only source of bad rep for subaru. Both naturally aspirated and turbo).
"Adding an Accessport won't void your warranty, you can just monitor the engine" Bold statement there. Even with the Stage 0 OTS tune, dealers will wage war on certain cars if the ECU is tampered with. I've seen it firsthand, and have heard about horror stories from other Subi owners as well. With the FA20, please tread with caution because dealerships do NOT take kindly to modified FA20s. AFAIK DAM will constantly read 0.688 on the stock tune, for adjustment, timing north or south. We all know DAM is supposed to sit at 1.000 or 16 until the ECU pulls timing for an issue to preserve the motor. My point being: if you get an Accessport, just get a protune for your specific car too, it's worth every penny. Otherwise, all advice in this video is solid.
People buying Subarus should stop this dumb Access port shit. You dont need obd2 readout at all times, and 99% of people dont use it as "monitoring tool". Nor should care what current tuning autoadjustments the engine does.
Turn car on wait till your rpm drops down to normal idle usually at about 800rpm and oil temp usually ends up being about 104-110. Oil temp should be about 160ish to work the best. Based on oil companies saying oil works best between 160-230
I want to get an STI so bad until i watch videos like this. Im so fortunate to be able to mod my GTI and make power so easy and not have to worry about the reliability factor. These cars are just amazing but not being able to mod without building the internals and running E85 for reliability is a real turn away 😕
These motors have a margin for error thinner than paper. Ppl will talk a big game all day about it's the driver, oil changes, and nothing else. It's also the fact that all it takes is a tuner having a bad day to eviscerate this engine. They are only durable under very particular circumstances that aaje it hardly worth the anxiety of driving it and stock, they are one of the worst cars on the road.
Keep in mind that all of these will create issues with potential warranty claims if you plan on retaining warranty. AOS will create potential issued with SOA does not like consumers tampering with the PCV system. Acessports will alter thr PID number on the ECU as well, thr moment aubaru goes to pull info from the car they'll see that thr PID has changed and flag the car in subarus system. Tbh thr AP is not worth the $$$ to just monitor values. No need to thr anxiety if the cars on a stock tune. As for improving reliability if you can get away with it an EGT delete and remembering to blast the valves every 30K miles is essential. As well as staying ontop of spark plug chages. Gets overlooked way too often. Other stuffs good info 🔥
Interesting about the AOS! So maybe some interesting back story and info, ive been canvasing/surveying, and most dealers don’t seem to care about AOS’s for the fa20 but care for ej’s. Could be anecdotal, but that’s about 65 people running them going for warranty claims in the northeast. The AP comment didn’t come through as intended, its mainly for all the people that run tunes without the AP installed, which is a surprisingly large group of people (generally older gen). Realizing now, I edited out some of that content🙃. And preach, walnut blasting and plugs will define the success of long term ownership, no if ands or buts lol
If you buy the AP make sure you read the normal values on an FA20 DAM fluctuations between .6 and 1 are normal due to the engine trying to be more efficient also knock shouldn't exceed 4.22 on either, with a direct injection motor you also need to have it cleaned after certain distances say like 50000km driven, also like he said warming it up is crucial but you don't have to wait for driving, when you first start the car and it idles high its not ready when the idle drops its good to go and you can turn it off whenever, the turbo is liquid and oil cooled so when the car is shut off the coolant keeps circulating through the turbo to prevent damage
awesome video man, I think people want some sexy solution but regular maintenance is like the #1 thing to aid in reliability. I would add getting a Used Oil Analysis done. I recently got back my results and I was very happy with it, my wrx is at ~30k miles on the odometer. The fumoto valve is a GAME CHANGER! My wife's car is getting one next haha.
A good video. Great points to learn from about my base model 2017 WRX. My next car will be the STI so I'm in a sweet spot I can wait for the new STI in 2022.
Great video for my 2012 Legacy, which actually has the same motor as 2015+ WRX. It's a nightmare for mods because nothing is compatible but man is it fun to surprise people in.
I enjoyed this video. To be honest, I know zero about Boxer Engines but I bought a Toyota 86 about two months ago and all I've been doing is learning, trying to figure out why the FA20 is such a "bad" engine by many and the more I dug deeper, the more I saw that it's people not looking after their cars. I had to come to terms that I no longer drive a Toyota or a Honda and that it is my responsibility not to drive the car broken everyday. And now I am learning a lot about boxer engines and it's issues like you would for any other engine and learn how to make it more reliable, just like any other engine.
Pick my 2020 WRX from the Mod shop tomorrow! AOS, TGV, Remark Axel Back, Cobb SF intake and Cobb tuned! Rally mud flaps, APR kit and rims+ tires! Been driving it for 5 months stock. Worked so hard to do this, can’t wait to feel the difference!
Lol, my in laws looked at me like I was nuts when I told them I had to let my STi warm up before leaving. Letting it get to op temp at minimum makes a difference out the gate.
That's a myth. You just need to let the oil circulate for 10 seconds to get to all the parts of your engine. Then drive conservatively until your car reaches normal oil temperature. Don't go by coolant temperature.
Maybe with others, but I've tried driving mine waiting 30 seconds vs when the idle revs settle at around 800 (which isn't exactly op temp, but close enough), and the difference in performance is notable. Whether or not it's a "myth" doesn't matter to me. This was gained via personal experience with my car. I just found it interesting that it's also being said here, and commented my experience. I was not the original owner, and cannot attest to how it was driven prior. All I know is, I treat it best I can, and patience seems to pay off. On a final note, when I say difference in performance, I'm specifically noting the way it responds to conservative driving out the gate. I rarely hammer on it, and that doesn't occur on the side streets. By the time I make it to the thruway, it has been driven long enough that everything is ready to go.
@@Dr.Ticklebum69 again, gained via experience. My 2015 STi is happier when warm. I cannot speak to experience with a turbocharged FA20 motor though. The NA FA20D did not share this particular characteristic as I had driven PLENTY of FR-S (FR-S's, FR-S-i??? What's the proper plural here 🤣) during pre-delivery inspections as a Toyota/Scion Technician. They were ready, and happy to go in mere seconds. I'm not saying this is or isn't a "myth," again just sharing my own observations and experience with my EJ25. Only has 67k on the odo so it's not notably high mileage. Is modded and tuned. Again, I cannot atest to how it was treated before and perhaps that played a factor here. Hard to say for sure. Just know what I experience day to day with mine. So in some instances, it clearly holds water. However, it shouldn't be taken as holy writ just the same. My stance has been, and will continue to be, do what works for you. If something that gets called a myth works, then whatever. Continue to do it because it works, not because of the would be myth, or regardless of what others may say. The main contributing factor for why I wait is that the car feels boggy if I just start up and go. So I always plan my trips with that in mind, giving myself time to allow it to settle before driving. I use the idle as my metric for when it's ready, not the temp gauge (although typically they coincide, hence why I originally mentioned op temp, however in hindsight I should've been more clear about this, my bad). At the end of the day, you do you, and believe what you will. To each their own and all that jazz. As long as you're getting those smiles per shift, you're getting the experience desired, right? (Who needs smiles per gallon anyway? 😉🤣)
Quickest way to warm up the car is to drive it. Nothing crazy, but drive after 30-60 seconds. The high idle is an emissions thing, but let the oil circulate for a bit, but then drive. Sitting and idling cold does not do much for warming up the engine. In extreme cold get a block and trans heater.
Do what he says. My EJ25 died at under 37k miles. Mechanic said my oil still looked clean though. No abuse. SOA was no help, as I was outside of Warranty, by time.
K&N filter boom ....but I am going to do a air oil separator...I warm my car up everyday I live right by the freeway so I make sure it's pretty warm by the time I pull off even leaving work that's when I Cruise I just let it do it's cycle but I watch my temp before I get on it
Keep up the good work man. I live in Oceanside Ca and you live in a really harsh environment in Boston. I'm excited for you to finish your mods on the WRX. Stay safe brother.
I was s Subaru technician thru some of the 90's till 03 then had so much side work I started my Subaru shop in 03 I love my Subarus I still drive one everyday but in 08 I dove into the German world BMW VW Audi ect. And after seeing how they adopted DI engines and the large leap in performance and reliability believe it or not lol I was super excited when I heard the Subaru was going to make a DI engine for the new wrx...but I'm not going to lie I'm kinda disappointed.... I feel like the FA is a huge step backwards 😕 Am I wrong???
I have 239k miles on my stock block, full bolt on, stage 3(ish) making 290HP/TQ that I tuned around 200K. I did 6k(sometimes a little higher) oil changes with motul and OEM filters. My oil is clean as a whistle and it still pulls hard. Remove as much emissions crap as possible and it will last 😉
With the "let it warm up" thought, I get the colder months. But what about a garaged WRX, pulling out in the morning for work, and it's 57 degrees out. Should be the car sit in the drive way for a 5+ mins before taking off?
Ideally no access port either, as it only tempts idiots to be idiots and for people to get needlessly worried about shit ecu does in the background. Just normal driivng and good octane fuel and it will be reliable like a toyota. Letting it warm up and cool down before and after each drive is also important. I feel like people in us are completely clueless on how to treat a turbo car because turbo diesels are nigh non-existant outaide of commercial vehicles. In europe we have them everywhere and its common knowledge to treat the turbo engine right.
My 2018 wrx struts were making knocking noises 5k miles off the lot. They refused any sort of warranty work as the struts are a "wearable" item. I understand some parts are a wearable item. But damn, 5k miles off the lot and already making noises like that? I got myself a set of aftermarket coilovers for a fraction of the price that oem struts are.
Other than the struts however, my subie has been by far the most reliable vehicle I have ever owned. I have over 100k miles on it now and now a single issue with it in that time frame.
Just Noises or were they leaking? Nothing like that should fail at 5k miles. 70k milrs, yes, but not 5k. Is there a list of "wear items"? Is it published somewhere?
@@K03sport ya the front were actually leaking a slight amount of oil but not really clunking like the rear ones were. I showed that to subaru and still denied warranty. They do actually have a list of parts that they do not cover under warranty, struts are on that list.
I've been driving Lexus for a few years with amazing results, but the driving experience (cough-cough AUTOMATIC) leaves me want more engagement. I'm thinking about checking out a 2019 WRX, but I'm sooooooooo spoiled with my Lexus reliability. And I drive at least 100+ miles daily for work. Any feedback for a guy like me?
I mean just to say it, Lexus's have some of the worst reliability on the market, depending on the year. And FA20 will treat you far better than a lexus IMO
Add fbo, spends 5k plus just for extra horsepower. Doesnt last. Stock intake is good to 3-400 hp. Sometimes l wished l kept it stock. People gotta realize you gotta have money to play. Have a reputable tuner. Make sure your cars paid off before anything lol. But l guess l understand , because race car. Lol
Very simple don’t put it on ethanol. And don’t upgrade the turbos. Unless you replace the conrods. Otherwise just give it oil and filter change every 5000kms
Bro let me ask you, my tuner is telling my since I am installing a up charge pipe, jpipe, headers, intercooler, air intake, oil catch can and boost controller that my motor is not going even last 100k. How true is this? And my second question do I really need after market intake with these parts I listed or can I keep the factory air intake with the K&N filter?
Who knows is the answer, take car of the car and it will last longer. As for the intake, if you are doing all that, get one. Its the cheapest part on the list
Take it from someone who is well into stage 2. Don't mod this car for power. Day to day you hardly feel it and when you get on it you'll be stressed out hoping nothing blows. Not to mention the green speed debacle. Besides the stock lousy tune, the car is good as an all arounder. It's only considered unreliable because kids mod the hell out of them and flog them to death. I baby the hell out of mine, but at the end of the day was the thousands of dollars I threw at it really worth it?
1. Keep it stock
2. Oil change every 3,000 miles
3. Let the car warm up for a few minutes before driving
4. Don’t drive over 50% throttle until the oil temp is at minimum 180 degree.
5. Keep off boost a few minutes before reaching your destination
6. Don’t immediately turn off your car when you park- let it cool for at least 30 seconds to avoid heat soaking the turbo
7. Do your scheduled maintenance!
this would be true if the turbo was mounting on the top of the motor. heat rises. the fa's turbo is mounted on the bottom. everything else i agree with.
#7 is all that matters
even for mobil1 full synthetic?
How can you see the oil temp? It’s not on the dash is it?
@@millhouse313 it’s in the small screen above your infotainment- you can adjust with the one button next to the emergency lights button and air vents
15 wrx stage 2 cobb ots map, 100k miles now and no problems. Went stage 2 at 20k miles
cobb ots tune, blew up motor 1 month later car had 122K
@@fa20ty 115k stage 2+ currently on rev 27 of tune. Don’t use OTS tunes lol
Same here (tuned at 20k). Just hit 115k on my 2015 WRX on Cobb stage 2 ots tune lol. Keep up with fluids and she’ll be good to you back.
Mines stock, 140k original miles, still on stock clutch. I change the oil every 5k and I don't beat on my car and I've had zero problems
How to make reliable: keep it stock
Exactly brother. I have been saying that the 4 years I have been in this Subaru community. I admire all of the modifications our guys and gals due but my base model WRX aka Ocean Blue will always be stock. My next car will be the new STI but I'm in a sweet spot. I have to see if the new motors perform well. I hope they are fuel efficient.
@@paulmarsdensr1095 Agreed. I recently drove a friend's Stage 1+ FA20 WRX and honestly it doesn't really seem worth it to me. He has an OTS tune via accessport, catback, and an STI short shifter. I don't know if my expectations were high or not but it really wasn't that much better than stock. I'm happy with how the car performs and honestly I'm okay with keeping it stock and driving it for a long time.
@@jonm.678 Amen brother me too. I'm a retired US Navy sailor 20 years and I worked on aircraft. I retired in 2007 . I'm 51 years old. I get kids or whoever trying to race me all the time it's hilarious. I put a vortex generator on and OEM foglights on my 2017 base model WRX. When you start doing all the mods you could really run into problems if you don't know what you are doing. Stay safe brother 🙏. Subies forever. I will be purchasing the new STI. After I do my research of course. 😀
Manly rods and pistons with head stud upgrade can't go wrong and a catch can from Cobb best way to go
Took the words right out of my mouth dawg. I have a 2015 base WRX with 141K on it and haven’t had 1 single problem
So owning this car is apparently its own job. I didn't think a video could make me not want a WRX, but this did it to a certain degree
This could apply to any car really. This is basic stuff. I dont even have a WRX or plan on getting one but, I can definately apply some of this to the car I have now.
@@MrNorotic I suppose to a degree every car has quirks to look out for. But, I've owned a 2012 V6 camaro since new, I literally have had nothing that needs to be tended to apart from oil changes, tires, and brakes after 80k miles (yes, the OEM brakes lasted that long, but to be honest i should've probably changed them at like 60-70k).
So, my point is that some cars don't have much to "look out for" - they just run without issue for the most part. Even with all the stuff in this video, in the end I still want a WRX for winter 😂
@@mattm2339 Ehh and I hesitate between WRX and impreza.. 2k17-2k19. I'm really afraid I'll waste money on the WRX ..
@@mattm2339 What the hell are you even talking about? Warming up the car, and using proper octane fuel is too much? Oil separator is common thing for all Direct injection engine cars. All of them have issue with carbon build uo, it has nothing to do with Subaru being some black sheep. It has no issues especially compared to how shoddy EJ25 was(which was the only source of bad rep for subaru. Both naturally aspirated and turbo).
@Kacpa2 coming in hot I see. Any "normal" car doesn't have all this stuff you have to watch out for. It's really as simple as that. Chill bruh.
"Adding an Accessport won't void your warranty, you can just monitor the engine"
Bold statement there. Even with the Stage 0 OTS tune, dealers will wage war on certain cars if the ECU is tampered with. I've seen it firsthand, and have heard about horror stories from other Subi owners as well. With the FA20, please tread with caution because dealerships do NOT take kindly to modified FA20s. AFAIK DAM will constantly read 0.688 on the stock tune, for adjustment, timing north or south. We all know DAM is supposed to sit at 1.000 or 16 until the ECU pulls timing for an issue to preserve the motor. My point being: if you get an Accessport, just get a protune for your specific car too, it's worth every penny.
Otherwise, all advice in this video is solid.
People buying Subarus should stop this dumb Access port shit. You dont need obd2 readout at all times, and 99% of people dont use it as "monitoring tool". Nor should care what current tuning autoadjustments the engine does.
Turn car on wait till your rpm drops down to normal idle usually at about 800rpm and oil temp usually ends up being about 104-110. Oil temp should be about 160ish to work the best. Based on oil companies saying oil works best between 160-230
I want to get an STI so bad until i watch videos like this. Im so fortunate to be able to mod my GTI and make power so easy and not have to worry about the reliability factor. These cars are just amazing but not being able to mod without building the internals and running E85 for reliability is a real turn away 😕
Got a 2007 gli with 235,000 miles on it. Still kicking strong. Just bought a 2020 wrx. Hard to beat that German 2.0T
These motors have a margin for error thinner than paper. Ppl will talk a big game all day about it's the driver, oil changes, and nothing else. It's also the fact that all it takes is a tuner having a bad day to eviscerate this engine. They are only durable under very particular circumstances that aaje it hardly worth the anxiety of driving it and stock, they are one of the worst cars on the road.
Your so lucky ! Now I’m stuck with my dumbass wrx
@@whynot7026your dumb wrx is more reliable than an STI. Ahem… ringland failure
2015 WRX with 105k mi with 0 engine issues
Keep in mind that all of these will create issues with potential warranty claims if you plan on retaining warranty.
AOS will create potential issued with SOA does not like consumers tampering with the PCV system.
Acessports will alter thr PID number on the ECU as well, thr moment aubaru goes to pull info from the car they'll see that thr PID has changed and flag the car in subarus system.
Tbh thr AP is not worth the $$$ to just monitor values. No need to thr anxiety if the cars on a stock tune.
As for improving reliability if you can get away with it an EGT delete and remembering to blast the valves every 30K miles is essential. As well as staying ontop of spark plug chages. Gets overlooked way too often.
Other stuffs good info 🔥
Interesting about the AOS! So maybe some interesting back story and info, ive been canvasing/surveying, and most dealers don’t seem to care about AOS’s for the fa20 but care for ej’s. Could be anecdotal, but that’s about 65 people running them going for warranty claims in the northeast. The AP comment didn’t come through as intended, its mainly for all the people that run tunes without the AP installed, which is a surprisingly large group of people (generally older gen). Realizing now, I edited out some of that content🙃. And preach, walnut blasting and plugs will define the success of long term ownership, no if ands or buts lol
If you buy the AP make sure you read the normal values on an FA20 DAM fluctuations between .6 and 1 are normal due to the engine trying to be more efficient also knock shouldn't exceed 4.22 on either, with a direct injection motor you also need to have it cleaned after certain distances say like 50000km driven, also like he said warming it up is crucial but you don't have to wait for driving, when you first start the car and it idles high its not ready when the idle drops its good to go and you can turn it off whenever, the turbo is liquid and oil cooled so when the car is shut off the coolant keeps circulating through the turbo to prevent damage
All i need is a cat back exhaust, lowering springs, and wider wheels/tires. And maybe a very reliable pro tune
awesome video man, I think people want some sexy solution but regular maintenance is like the #1 thing to aid in reliability. I would add getting a Used Oil Analysis done. I recently got back my results and I was very happy with it, my wrx is at ~30k miles on the odometer. The fumoto valve is a GAME CHANGER! My wife's car is getting one next haha.
A good video. Great points to learn from about my base model 2017 WRX. My next car will be the STI so I'm in a sweet spot I can wait for the new STI in 2022.
2023 if we're lucky!
Get the 2021 the new 2022 looks terrible
Rip.
You mean the one that is never is going to come out? Stick to the FA20. Stage one will give you more power than the EJ
Great video for my 2012 Legacy, which actually has the same motor as 2015+ WRX. It's a nightmare for mods because nothing is compatible but man is it fun to surprise people in.
I enjoyed this video. To be honest, I know zero about Boxer Engines but I bought a Toyota 86 about two months ago and all I've been doing is learning, trying to figure out why the FA20 is such a "bad" engine by many and the more I dug deeper, the more I saw that it's people not looking after their cars. I had to come to terms that I no longer drive a Toyota or a Honda and that it is my responsibility not to drive the car broken everyday. And now I am learning a lot about boxer engines and it's issues like you would for any other engine and learn how to make it more reliable, just like any other engine.
Pick my 2020 WRX from the Mod shop tomorrow! AOS, TGV, Remark Axel Back, Cobb SF intake and Cobb tuned! Rally mud flaps, APR kit and rims+ tires!
Been driving it for 5 months stock. Worked so hard to do this, can’t wait to feel the difference!
No downpipe?
I have more plans as I continue to research and ask the WRX community.
Should be exciting! Get a JPipe on there!
You’re not gonna make much power without a downpipe.. that’s like the first performance mod you should do
I will be putting on Rally Armor mudflaps here really soon. Wow alot of great mods looks like. Enjoy brother.
Lol, my in laws looked at me like I was nuts when I told them I had to let my STi warm up before leaving. Letting it get to op temp at minimum makes a difference out the gate.
That's a myth. You just need to let the oil circulate for 10 seconds to get to all the parts of your engine. Then drive conservatively until your car reaches normal oil temperature. Don't go by coolant temperature.
Maybe with others, but I've tried driving mine waiting 30 seconds vs when the idle revs settle at around 800 (which isn't exactly op temp, but close enough), and the difference in performance is notable. Whether or not it's a "myth" doesn't matter to me. This was gained via personal experience with my car.
I just found it interesting that it's also being said here, and commented my experience. I was not the original owner, and cannot attest to how it was driven prior. All I know is, I treat it best I can, and patience seems to pay off.
On a final note, when I say difference in performance, I'm specifically noting the way it responds to conservative driving out the gate. I rarely hammer on it, and that doesn't occur on the side streets. By the time I make it to the thruway, it has been driven long enough that everything is ready to go.
Still a myth.
@@Dr.Ticklebum69 again, gained via experience. My 2015 STi is happier when warm. I cannot speak to experience with a turbocharged FA20 motor though. The NA FA20D did not share this particular characteristic as I had driven PLENTY of FR-S (FR-S's, FR-S-i??? What's the proper plural here 🤣) during pre-delivery inspections as a Toyota/Scion Technician. They were ready, and happy to go in mere seconds.
I'm not saying this is or isn't a "myth," again just sharing my own observations and experience with my EJ25. Only has 67k on the odo so it's not notably high mileage. Is modded and tuned. Again, I cannot atest to how it was treated before and perhaps that played a factor here. Hard to say for sure. Just know what I experience day to day with mine. So in some instances, it clearly holds water. However, it shouldn't be taken as holy writ just the same.
My stance has been, and will continue to be, do what works for you. If something that gets called a myth works, then whatever. Continue to do it because it works, not because of the would be myth, or regardless of what others may say.
The main contributing factor for why I wait is that the car feels boggy if I just start up and go. So I always plan my trips with that in mind, giving myself time to allow it to settle before driving. I use the idle as my metric for when it's ready, not the temp gauge (although typically they coincide, hence why I originally mentioned op temp, however in hindsight I should've been more clear about this, my bad).
At the end of the day, you do you, and believe what you will. To each their own and all that jazz. As long as you're getting those smiles per shift, you're getting the experience desired, right? (Who needs smiles per gallon anyway? 😉🤣)
Quickest way to warm up the car is to drive it. Nothing crazy, but drive after 30-60 seconds. The high idle is an emissions thing, but let the oil circulate for a bit, but then drive. Sitting and idling cold does not do much for warming up the engine. In extreme cold get a block and trans heater.
Do what he says. My EJ25 died at under 37k miles. Mechanic said my oil still looked clean though. No abuse. SOA was no help, as I was outside of Warranty, by time.
K&N filter boom ....but I am going to do a air oil separator...I warm my car up everyday I live right by the freeway so I make sure it's pretty warm by the time I pull off even leaving work that's when I Cruise I just let it do it's cycle but I watch my temp before I get on it
Keep up the good work man. I live in Oceanside Ca and you live in a really harsh environment in Boston. I'm excited for you to finish your mods on the WRX. Stay safe brother.
Thanks for the support!
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum (or some other high quality oil) with OEM subaru oil filters and dont beat up on it constantly. Simple.
I was s Subaru technician thru some of the 90's till 03 then had so much side work I started my Subaru shop in 03 I love my Subarus I still drive one everyday but in 08 I dove into the German world BMW VW Audi ect. And after seeing how they adopted DI engines and the large leap in performance and reliability believe it or not lol I was super excited when I heard the Subaru was going to make a DI engine for the new wrx...but I'm not going to lie I'm kinda disappointed.... I feel like the FA is a huge step backwards 😕
Am I wrong???
I have 239k miles on my stock block, full bolt on, stage 3(ish) making 290HP/TQ that I tuned around 200K. I did 6k(sometimes a little higher) oil changes with motul and OEM filters. My oil is clean as a whistle and it still pulls hard. Remove as much emissions crap as possible and it will last 😉
What do you mean by emissions stuff?
i just blew my 17 engine, very sad right now
How? Don’t mod it. Lol
You can run a Scan Tool or a Banks IDash as a monitoring system. Accessport may void your warranty, depending on the dealer.
Can’t forget about running flex for reduced engine knock
Everybody loves mods.. I love maintenance😂😂
😂
I have the s4 2015, it does need atleast 10 minutes to run optimal
With the "let it warm up" thought, I get the colder months. But what about a garaged WRX, pulling out in the morning for work, and it's 57 degrees out. Should be the car sit in the drive way for a 5+ mins before taking off?
I just let it warm up until the cold rpms drop after about 30 secondd
Am looking at a 2017 . Are they reliable 🤔
No engine mods 🤦♂️
Ideally no access port either, as it only tempts idiots to be idiots and for people to get needlessly worried about shit ecu does in the background. Just normal driivng and good octane fuel and it will be reliable like a toyota. Letting it warm up and cool down before and after each drive is also important.
I feel like people in us are completely clueless on how to treat a turbo car because turbo diesels are nigh non-existant outaide of commercial vehicles. In europe we have them everywhere and its common knowledge to treat the turbo engine right.
Running AP will flash your ECU, which the bad guys can see and even if you run a stage 0 tune and just use it for the gauges.
2019 VEMS tuned 305 HP trouble free at 30k miles
How are the 2022+ VB Wrx with the FA24 for reliability?
Guys I’m new in the world with Subaru I bought a WRX 2018 the best octane gas to put is 93 premium? My car is used and it don’t come with the manual
I know this is late but yes put in 93
I do plan to get air oil separator but my dealer said it will void warranty. Does it really void warranty?
I think they have to prove the mod is what caused the failure, but it’s still a fight you may or may not want to prove.
I thought I’d heard that a AOS voids certain portions of the warranty. Is that not true?
My 2018 wrx struts were making knocking noises 5k miles off the lot. They refused any sort of warranty work as the struts are a "wearable" item. I understand some parts are a wearable item. But damn, 5k miles off the lot and already making noises like that? I got myself a set of aftermarket coilovers for a fraction of the price that oem struts are.
Other than the struts however, my subie has been by far the most reliable vehicle I have ever owned. I have over 100k miles on it now and now a single issue with it in that time frame.
Just Noises or were they leaking? Nothing like that should fail at 5k miles. 70k milrs, yes, but not 5k. Is there a list of "wear items"? Is it published somewhere?
@@K03sport ya the front were actually leaking a slight amount of oil but not really clunking like the rear ones were. I showed that to subaru and still denied warranty. They do actually have a list of parts that they do not cover under warranty, struts are on that list.
What kind of radio screen deck do you have in that car
I don’t have to do the killer b pick up and c4 coolant mod on my fa20, right?
would you know if a six speed fa trans would go into ej motor
It is reliable. Its the stuff you add willy nilly that makes it unreliable.
does anyone know if this guy has a vid explaining the mods on his wrx from this video i like the front bumper/lip combo
many on the channel
I've been driving Lexus for a few years with amazing results, but the driving experience (cough-cough AUTOMATIC) leaves me want more engagement. I'm thinking about checking out a 2019 WRX, but I'm sooooooooo spoiled with my Lexus reliability. And I drive at least 100+ miles daily for work. Any feedback for a guy like me?
I mean just to say it, Lexus's have some of the worst reliability on the market, depending on the year. And FA20 will treat you far better than a lexus IMO
@@AutoEnthusiast are you joking? Lexus has some the worst reliability? Subaru drivers really are insane
do the same rules apply to the CVT versions?
Negative, I really wouldn't tune the CVT
So does the fa20 need the cylinder coolant mod?
What head unit is that
Add fbo, spends 5k plus just for extra horsepower. Doesnt last. Stock intake is good to 3-400 hp. Sometimes l wished l kept it stock. People gotta realize you gotta have money to play. Have a reputable tuner. Make sure your cars paid off before anything lol. But l guess l understand , because race car. Lol
You got a 2nd one? or sold the cvt?
Very simple don’t put it on ethanol.
And don’t upgrade the turbos.
Unless you replace the conrods.
Otherwise just give it oil and filter change every 5000kms
Extra full synthetic oil and extra often
The DAM fluctuations are normal shouldn't get below .6 though cobb tells you this
Unless it's ej engine
Bro let me ask you, my tuner is telling my since I am installing a up charge pipe, jpipe, headers, intercooler, air intake, oil catch can and boost controller that my motor is not going even last 100k. How true is this? And my second question do I really need after market intake with these parts I listed or can I keep the factory air intake with the K&N filter?
Who knows is the answer, take car of the car and it will last longer. As for the intake, if you are doing all that, get one. Its the cheapest part on the list
I know this was a while ago, but if your tuner told you that, I'd find a different more knowledgeable tuner.
What double din are you using compared to the stock deck?
he's running the Seicane Android headunit.
Can you run a AOS on a cvt wrx?
Yes you can!
Just tuned my 16 impreza so now I'm using a pop tune lol
Really?? Who was the tuner?
@@AutoEnthusiast I'm still working out the fine tunes but it's XRT tuning (xtremeracing)
@@TheExploringZ Did you go with a turbo or supercharger?
@@AutoEnthusiast neither. Na
@@TheExploringZ your running a tune with natural aspiration?
Well that's a lot of work , im just going with a civic si then
😮😫 oil every 3,000?
yup lol
Even for the first 3000 miles, because I’m at like 2500. So I’d know to change then or later
@@AutoEnthusiast why does subaru say 6K?
That's pretty wasteful. At 3000 miles the oil is just getting good. Wait the 6 months or 6000 miles.
I know on my 01 is300 I do it every 5 k miles
Buy a 2022 wrx. Better suspension and better engine that can handle modes
eh it's kind of the same boat right now, slightly cheaper to make power on the FA24, but we are starting to see trans blow
You’re not even downshifting. How can I trust you?
Don't mod it.
subaru wrx sti
Subaru WRX
How to keep the Subaru reliable - don't drive it
Stop looking at that ap. Tune it and store it away 😂. Let the car handle it
Regular service and leave the engine alone. Problem solved.
Take it from someone who is well into stage 2. Don't mod this car for power. Day to day you hardly feel it and when you get on it you'll be stressed out hoping nothing blows. Not to mention the green speed debacle. Besides the stock lousy tune, the car is good as an all arounder. It's only considered unreliable because kids mod the hell out of them and flog them to death. I baby the hell out of mine, but at the end of the day was the thousands of dollars I threw at it really worth it?