I knew i recognized your voice. You literally walked me through my AOS install. Its amazing how you fit hours of work into a 26-minute video. I think i watched it 60 or more times. Thank you so much for giving me the confidence to succeed with the IAG AOS installation. Cheers brother.
Don't re oil your filters or use that type of filter due to the oil covering the mass air flow sensor. All the turbo suction plus oil. It'll drag onto your maf
@@boostedrex9460 never had a problem in the 20 something years of re oiling my filters. You must have been soaking them in oil if your MAF is getting oil on it.
@FunTimeWithSouls thanks for the feedback I'll look into those filters. Just read it online why not to use them so I stayed away. Good to hear you have success with them. I'll have to try them out! How has your car been. Any rebuilds. I barley got 30000 miles on mine. Super worried about it randomly blowing up. I baby my car as much as I can. You got any tips for a new sti owner?
awesome video... i learned a few things. this reminds me why i love (most) people. I have been doing all my maintenance on my GR86 and try to be very meticulous.. i hit 10k miles recently in 5 months. i very much enjoy working on it.
This video is very helpful! I am picking up my 2015 WRX with 74k miles on it on Monday and doing as much research into proper maintenance so I can keep it for a long time!
@@danielhuerta8890 when I went to go test drive it I found out that it already has all the mods I would have done overtime. Now I ca spend my money on maintaining it! This car is so fun already and I am still getting 30 MPG!
Great video! So, the myth of every Subaru needs an AOS or catch can was proved wrong here! Your car showed NO oil in your intercool or intake. Proper maintenance and care is the key to keeping your engine running strong.
A few things to take in to account with Jim’s car. 1, this vehicle still has relatively low miles. 2, Although Jim puts this car through its paces. The driveline is essentially “stock”. Once more performance modifications get added, you better believe a proper functioning AOS will be required!
I knew you could prime like that, but never actually seen anyone do it. I didn’t want to give the car the beans right after an engine swap or something. Gonna have to start priming. The 15+ has been sitting for a bit and she’s getting some mean lifter slap on cold starts. Thanks for that little bit.
On the CVT models you hold the brake and accelerator down to do the crank. If you have a push button cvt its the same again but after you lift your foot from the accelerator the car will start so make sure youve let it crank long enough before you lift the pedal again.
Very informative video, thank you! I'm approaching 20,000 miles myself and have only ever changed my own oil. I'm glad to see that changing the other fluids isn't any more complicated. As for what I think you're gonna do next... well, it's Florida so, it's gotta be a front-mount intercooler!
Glad you enjoyed it! Proper maintenance is key to giving your vehicle a good life. These cars are a great starting point for the DIY’ers out there, looking to get their hands dirty. 🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻
I found my dad's 96 Subaru Legacy service manual. "After adding capacity oil into motor, remove fuel pump fuse or relay then crank the engine for 10 seconds. Reinstall fuel pump fuse or relay and start up."
About to buy some wheel cribs for this job, similar to what you have in the rear. How tall are those? Your car doesn’t look very lifted off the ground but seems like you had enough room
My 2019 wrx is having a bit of a problem. I noticed that when I try to accelerate, when my boost hits 10psi+, the engine feels like it lugs and refuses to accelerate. Any ideas how I can try fix this?
Hey there , I had the same problem after partially draining my cvt fluid . Problem 1 : Stick to manufacturer cvt oil (Subaru high torque cvt oil ) using any other brand will cause poor gear shifting (kick ) I changed spark plugs Changed the engine oil and filter And problem was still there. It wasn’t till I changed my Engine Filter under the hood and just like that my car came back to life.
The oil quantities as well as some of the tooling may be different for the FA24, but the service should generally be the same! Learn what to look for from this video then apply it to your vehicle 🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻
Did you get it figured out? First oil change coming up in 5k miles. My first impulse is to just push the button once or push and hold if that doesn’t work
You got some mean shoulders breaking those rear diff plugs loose with only 2” clearance dude. My car is lifted, and I still drive it onto the ramps, THEN jack it up for work like this. I can basically kneel under there. 🤣
I’m about to do the trans and diff fluid maintenance for my ‘20 WRX and ordered Motul Gear 300 just like you. Is it fine to use the same fluid in the rear diff? On the forums it seems fine but I’m curious what your opinion is
@@ImportImageRacing Is the 90 PA motul diff fluid better for the differential in the long run? Curious as to why you use that for the diff only instead of the gear 300 for both the diff and trans.
Hey JIm, great video! I know I'm late to the game here, but I just bought a '17 WRX and want to do the maintenance myself rather than take it to a dealer. At about 18:23 you whip out what looks like an aerosol spray for the rear diff -- what is this spray, is it necessary, and what other cleaners/lubricants do you recommend?
The spray you are seeing is "CRC Brake Clean". This product is used to clean up the mess created by the excess gear fluid left behind once the job is done. Its great for metal, but will DESTROY painted surfaces and is highly toxic to breath! Use sparingly.
Do you have a video on how to change the transmission differential oil? Also where did you get your oil pan, bucket and pump? Total newbie here! :) THanks in advance!
I've been changing my own oil on my 21 WRX every 3k (at 40k miles now)but I never knew I had to do that flat foot crank priming. How bad am I screwed? I will do it moving forward.
I highly doubt you are in any sort of trouble whatsoever. The biggest reason for this is to fill the oil filter first, which sucks that it's upside down so you can't prefill it before putting it on. As long as there was no reason for the oil pump to de prime. I also doubt a single dealership who changes your oil does this. It's recommended but don't let it hang over your head and worry you've broke your engine
east coast, cold winters. you had mentioned a more OEM style oil for the diffs. do you have a recommendation on what to use in place of the oil in your instructional? might be a dumb question, but this is my first time doing this myself and i'm at 90k. thanks in advance man and awesome channel.
Totally appreciate it! 🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼 Im originally from the Baltimore MD area and im well aware of the harsh winter conditions that can plague the east coast. With that being said, I have gotten away with this mixture for a long time in those climates. But OEM "Subaru" replacement fluids are always a good idea if you're concerned.
Wow, great question. Because of your location, I would strongly recommend sticking with factory weight lubricants. You don't necessarily need to stay OEM, but I would say factory viscosity's for sure.
I've been using Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 for my 2021 WRX and it seems okay so far at 38k miles on the odometer. Last year I did a walnut blast as well, but I never removed the engine to check the piston rings. Do you think the Motul EFE oil is the best by a wide margin? If so I'll have to go out of my way to pick some up or have it delivered. Also, I do recognize you since I've got an AOS street series V3 and your install video was super helpful!
Glad I could help with the AOS install! 🤘🏼🤩🤘🏼. Here's a trade secret.... The two best things you can do to prevent carbon build up in your DI engine are Motul EFE oil, and "top tier" 93oct gas.
Manual transmission: STI: 4.3 US QT (4.1 liters), Non-STI: 3.5 US QT (3.3 liters) CVT Models: Non-STI: 1.5 US QT (1.4 liters) | Engine Oil (Changing Oil + Filter): STI: 4.5 US QT (4.3 liters), Non-STI: (5.4 US QT (5.1 liters). Always put recommended amount of oil, better safe than sorry. Source: Owners Manual. Side Note: I usually put the 5qt jug in the engine and use the 1qt bottle to prefill the filter and put a little around O-Ring of the filter.
What do you think about 0w20 Motul 8100 ecolite? I've been putting that in a '23 crosstrek 2.0L manual with the FB20D engine. Ambient temp range is 110F to 0F (MO, CO mountains, CA, etc). Would the 5w-30 EFE be much better? Thanks!
0w20 Motul is great! Because your location sees a wide variety of weather conditions, I would stick with the OEM recommendation for oil weight. To get more detailed, you could benefit from having 5w30 X-Clean for summer months. This will give you the added benefits from the detergents that help break down carbon build up inside the engine. BUT.... for cold or freezing temperatures, I would stick with the 0w20 Motul!
@@ImportImageRacing Ok great, good to know! I will consider rotating in the 5w30 x-clean during summer season, but for now keep going with the Motul in oem weight. Thanks!
I’ve recently just bought a 2016 Wrx and have an oil change coming up and wondering the best oil. Ive heard that using rotella t6 5w-40. Do you have any thoughts on that?
We have also heard of plenty of people using Rotella and I’m sure it’s great! The facts are Jim has TONS of experience with Motul in his years of building both street and race engines. In his opinion, the oil featured in the video is the best choice! www.importimageracing.com/products/kit-changeoil-5-motul-oil-subaru-engine-maintenance-kit-6l-subaru-wrx-2015-2021-forester-xt-2014-2018?variant=12413122936928
I know this is a VA video, but question for the VB: i ended getting motul 8100 x clean + (plus) , should i exchange it for the efe instead? (running Subaru's 5w30 oil at the moment & a tune)
Great question! I wouldn’t worry about going through all of the trouble returning or exchanging what you have. Just be more aware next time and for future changes. Keep an eye on engine oil levels to detect any changes. Some oil blends will burn faster than others.
@@ImportImageRacing Always wondered if there was any extra heat disapiation to be had, seen you left it on and wondered if there was a reason outside of the obvious :P (mice ate mine, so it got tossed)
Do you recommend 3k mile oil change intervals or 4-5k mile intervals? Thanks for this as I’m coming up to 27k miles on my 2015 and I’m thinking of doing the trans and diff fluid change.
You can do it! 💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼 We recommend standard oil change increments of 5k miles. I drive my car HARD… so you might catch me doing it more often than that!
Awesome thank you. I was going to say with oil that pricey changing it every 3k would get costly. Glad to hear promoting of more modern day oil change intervals.
Well direct injection is similar to a Diesel engine even if it has spark plug and lower compression. Also atomization is not nearly as good as port injection because the fuel doesn’t actually have enough time to convert in to vapour and when your turbo boost is low you are actually causing damage to your engine. The system works normal once you are under full boost just like diesel you need the extra heat from the turbo compressor to actually convert improve atomization of the fuel and provide complete combustion . So basically if you want your can too last drive it hard and don’t idle the engine for too long . This will prevent carbon build up because you will achieve complete combustion. If you are planning to stay in traffic and idle the engine a lot it is a logical choice to take the NA engine because the compression is higher and complete automisation of the fuel will be achieved simply by the engine compression this will produce complete combustion and prevent carbon build up that is basically result from incomplete combustion. Oil change are important especially the correct oil but bad driving habits especially now with turbo direct injection are critical. Basically low load driving with extended idle in traffic would be NA engine high load driving with minimum idle time turbo engine it is that simple. Remember with direct injection you need to buy the horse power that you are going to use and not the horse power that you want just to show to you friends or use for few seconds on the high way just to scratch your ego if you want your engine to last . Current engines are so advanced this is not your grandfather Camaro with carburetor and 9 to 1 compression ratio that can sit and idle for a day and produce 40 hp per litre of displacement.
I've got a '16 wrx. Change your fluids more often friend. You've got metal mad shavings in the front AND back. I change oil every 2k miles, and all other fluids every 15k. Last change I had no shavings at all. Lack of proper maintenance will kill the car. Fluids are cheaper than a toasted trans
Just bought the last new 2023 brz but I always used valvoline enhanced protection OR full syn maxlife on my 21 wrx. It has the highest amount of moly available in commercially available GF6 5w30, and yes its superior to Xclean EFE in detergency as well as anti-friciton and has the best long term viscosity of all oils we tested in the FA20 over on R/WRX with blackstone. Yes this is all backed up by research and data. Yes Xcelan is a good oil, but its frankly overpriced and offers no benefits over the much cheaper valovline. edit: also, dont waste your time "flat foot cranking" or priming these engines with new oil lol. these engine build pressure immediately, and dry cranking the engine is causing the same exact kind of wear as just starting it normally without the added benefit of warming up. i tell this to the morons i see pre-filling oil filters as well lol, the oil filter is literally upside and all the oil will drain out of it into the bottom of the pan as soon as you put it on, which will also make a huge ass mess. also, where is your fumoto valve? attach a hose to it and run it directly into an empty oil jug for disposal. no splash, no pan, no drip. truly professional and the cleanest possible change.
I knew i recognized your voice. You literally walked me through my AOS install. Its amazing how you fit hours of work into a 26-minute video. I think i watched it 60 or more times. Thank you so much for giving me the confidence to succeed with the IAG AOS installation. Cheers brother.
You got it my man! The pleasure is all mine. Glad you enjoyed it, and super happy I could help! 🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻
Another good tip: If you have a reusable air filter on an aftermarket intake clean and re-oil the filter when changing your engine oil.
Yes sir, great tip! If we didn’t just put a GrimmSpeed DryCon filter in it, we would have done that! 🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻
Great tip!
Don't re oil your filters or use that type of filter due to the oil covering the mass air flow sensor. All the turbo suction plus oil. It'll drag onto your maf
@@boostedrex9460 never had a problem in the 20 something years of re oiling my filters. You must have been soaking them in oil if your MAF is getting oil on it.
@FunTimeWithSouls thanks for the feedback I'll look into those filters. Just read it online why not to use them so I stayed away. Good to hear you have success with them. I'll have to try them out!
How has your car been. Any rebuilds. I barley got 30000 miles on mine. Super worried about it randomly blowing up. I baby my car as much as I can. You got any tips for a new sti owner?
awesome video... i learned a few things. this reminds me why i love (most) people. I have been doing all my maintenance on my GR86 and try to be very meticulous.. i hit 10k miles recently in 5 months. i very much enjoy working on it.
Thank you and we appreciate your response! Keep up the good work on your end, and we’ll keep helping out every chance we get!
This video is very helpful! I am picking up my 2015 WRX with 74k miles on it on Monday and doing as much research into proper maintenance so I can keep it for a long time!
Hey same here. Just got my 2016 wrx at 76k miles 😂
@@danielhuerta8890 when I went to go test drive it I found out that it already has all the mods I would have done overtime. Now I ca spend my money on maintaining it! This car is so fun already and I am still getting 30 MPG!
Great video! So, the myth of every Subaru needs an AOS or catch can was proved wrong here! Your car showed NO oil in your intercool or intake. Proper maintenance and care is the key to keeping your engine running strong.
A few things to take in to account with Jim’s car. 1, this vehicle still has relatively low miles. 2, Although Jim puts this car through its paces. The driveline is essentially “stock”. Once more performance modifications get added, you better believe a proper functioning AOS will be required!
@@ImportImageRacingWhat AOS do you recommend?
What about Rotella T6 oil? Also here in Texas I use 5w40 because of the high temperature.
Dude, get a catch can and delete the tgv and egr crap asap.
Boomba catch can. Best $200 you'll ever spend.@@crackedbrainOG
i've always put a bit of oil on my finger and apply it to the oil filter's o-ring. i've been told it helps the o-ring from rotting
Good job 👏🏻
Definitely makes it easier to pull off in the future
I knew you could prime like that, but never actually seen anyone do it. I didn’t want to give the car the beans right after an engine swap or something. Gonna have to start priming. The 15+ has been sitting for a bit and she’s getting some mean lifter slap on cold starts. Thanks for that little bit.
On the CVT models you hold the brake and accelerator down to do the crank. If you have a push button cvt its the same again but after you lift your foot from the accelerator the car will start so make sure youve let it crank long enough before you lift the pedal again.
Awesome and well-informed video my brotha, at the 60,000 mile mark gonna do everything you did in this video. Thanks!
Thank you, glad we could be of service! Enjoy your ride!
Very informative video, thank you! I'm approaching 20,000 miles myself and have only ever changed my own oil. I'm glad to see that changing the other fluids isn't any more complicated. As for what I think you're gonna do next... well, it's Florida so, it's gotta be a front-mount intercooler!
Glad you enjoyed it! Proper maintenance is key to giving your vehicle a good life. These cars are a great starting point for the DIY’ers out there, looking to get their hands dirty. 🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻
Nice! You got a vid for the 22+ wrx?
Coming soon!
I found my dad's 96 Subaru Legacy service manual. "After adding capacity oil into motor, remove fuel pump fuse or relay then crank the engine for 10 seconds. Reinstall fuel pump fuse or relay and start up."
What torque wrench are you using? The lime green one.
About to buy some wheel cribs for this job, similar to what you have in the rear. How tall are those? Your car doesn’t look very lifted off the ground but seems like you had enough room
My 2019 wrx is having a bit of a problem. I noticed that when I try to accelerate, when my boost hits 10psi+, the engine feels like it lugs and refuses to accelerate. Any ideas how I can try fix this?
Hey there , I had the same problem after partially draining my cvt fluid .
Problem 1 :
Stick to manufacturer cvt oil (Subaru high torque cvt oil ) using any other brand will cause poor gear shifting (kick )
I changed spark plugs
Changed the engine oil and filter
And problem was still there.
It wasn’t till I changed my Engine Filter under the hood and just like that my car came back to life.
Any reason why the oil service can’t be used on an FA 24 wrx?
The oil quantities as well as some of the tooling may be different for the FA24, but the service should generally be the same! Learn what to look for from this video then apply it to your vehicle 🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻
It can, the FA24 is just a different weight of oil then the FA20
The same basic principles apply for the FA24 WRX as well.
Very interesting history. I didnt know you did all that.
Yes sir, I worked closely with Audi and Porsche for a considerable amount of time before that too! 😊
We love having Jimmy around! 😊
Yeah he's really cool! @@ImportImageRacing
How would I do a flat foot crank with vb wrx push button start? I am new owner first time
Did you get it figured out? First oil change coming up in 5k miles. My first impulse is to just push the button once or push and hold if that doesn’t work
Very informative video again! BTW when it comes to oil, what if I usually go with Subaru's OEM Oil 5W 30? how does it stack against Motul?
You got some mean shoulders breaking those rear diff plugs loose with only 2” clearance dude.
My car is lifted, and I still drive it onto the ramps, THEN jack it up for work like this. I can basically kneel under there. 🤣
Great video, the tips are really good. How often should you change your diff and transmission fluid if your stock? Also what about the front diff?
I’m about to do the trans and diff fluid maintenance for my ‘20 WRX and ordered Motul Gear 300 just like you. Is it fine to use the same fluid in the rear diff? On the forums it seems fine but I’m curious what your opinion is
yes sir! Same fluid in both!
@@ImportImageRacing thank you very much!
@@ImportImageRacing Is the 90 PA motul diff fluid better for the differential in the long run? Curious as to why you use that for the diff only instead of the gear 300 for both the diff and trans.
Hey JIm, great video! I know I'm late to the game here, but I just bought a '17 WRX and want to do the maintenance myself rather than take it to a dealer. At about 18:23 you whip out what looks like an aerosol spray for the rear diff -- what is this spray, is it necessary, and what other cleaners/lubricants do you recommend?
The spray you are seeing is "CRC Brake Clean". This product is used to clean up the mess created by the excess gear fluid left behind once the job is done. Its great for metal, but will DESTROY painted surfaces and is highly toxic to breath! Use sparingly.
I assume this oil is good for the 2022 scoobie also?
Do you have a video on how to change the transmission differential oil? Also where did you get your oil pan, bucket and pump? Total newbie here! :)
THanks in advance!
i have 2020 STI 6 SPEED how many quartz of oil i need 4 my transmission? and rear end
I've been changing my own oil on my 21 WRX every 3k (at 40k miles now)but I never knew I had to do that flat foot crank priming. How bad am I screwed? I will do it moving forward.
I highly doubt you are in any sort of trouble whatsoever. The biggest reason for this is to fill the oil filter first, which sucks that it's upside down so you can't prefill it before putting it on. As long as there was no reason for the oil pump to de prime. I also doubt a single dealership who changes your oil does this. It's recommended but don't let it hang over your head and worry you've broke your engine
east coast, cold winters. you had mentioned a more OEM style oil for the diffs. do you have a recommendation on what to use in place of the oil in your instructional? might be a dumb question, but this is my first time doing this myself and i'm at 90k. thanks in advance man and awesome channel.
Totally appreciate it! 🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼 Im originally from the Baltimore MD area and im well aware of the harsh winter conditions that can plague the east coast. With that being said, I have gotten away with this mixture for a long time in those climates. But OEM "Subaru" replacement fluids are always a good idea if you're concerned.
Is motul oil better than valvoline oil
I live in alaska where winter is about 8months long will this be okay for my WRX or stick with OEM? I plan on doing all 3
Wow, great question. Because of your location, I would strongly recommend sticking with factory weight lubricants. You don't necessarily need to stay OEM, but I would say factory viscosity's for sure.
I've been using Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 for my 2021 WRX and it seems okay so far at 38k miles on the odometer. Last year I did a walnut blast as well, but I never removed the engine to check the piston rings. Do you think the Motul EFE oil is the best by a wide margin? If so I'll have to go out of my way to pick some up or have it delivered.
Also, I do recognize you since I've got an AOS street series V3 and your install video was super helpful!
Glad I could help with the AOS install! 🤘🏼🤩🤘🏼. Here's a trade secret.... The two best things you can do to prevent carbon build up in your DI engine are Motul EFE oil, and "top tier" 93oct gas.
@@ImportImageRacing Great, thanks! I don't have 93 near me since I'm in California but I'll start with the Motul EFE
Great video appreciate the content
how much transmission fluid does the car take? And is it okay to only put 5 quarts of engine oil?
Manual transmission: STI: 4.3 US QT (4.1 liters), Non-STI: 3.5 US QT (3.3 liters) CVT Models: Non-STI: 1.5 US QT (1.4 liters) | Engine Oil (Changing Oil + Filter): STI: 4.5 US QT (4.3 liters), Non-STI: (5.4 US QT (5.1 liters). Always put recommended amount of oil, better safe than sorry. Source: Owners Manual. Side Note: I usually put the 5qt jug in the engine and use the 1qt bottle to prefill the filter and put a little around O-Ring of the filter.
What do you think about 0w20 Motul 8100 ecolite? I've been putting that in a '23 crosstrek 2.0L manual with the FB20D engine. Ambient temp range is 110F to 0F (MO, CO mountains, CA, etc).
Would the 5w-30 EFE be much better? Thanks!
0w20 Motul is great! Because your location sees a wide variety of weather conditions, I would stick with the OEM recommendation for oil weight. To get more detailed, you could benefit from having 5w30 X-Clean for summer months. This will give you the added benefits from the detergents that help break down carbon build up inside the engine. BUT.... for cold or freezing temperatures, I would stick with the 0w20 Motul!
@@ImportImageRacing Ok great, good to know! I will consider rotating in the 5w30 x-clean during summer season, but for now keep going with the Motul in oem weight. Thanks!
I’ve recently just bought a 2016 Wrx and have an oil change coming up and wondering the best oil. Ive heard that using rotella t6 5w-40. Do you have any thoughts on that?
We have also heard of plenty of people using Rotella and I’m sure it’s great! The facts are Jim has TONS of experience with Motul in his years of building both street and race engines. In his opinion, the oil featured in the video is the best choice!
www.importimageracing.com/products/kit-changeoil-5-motul-oil-subaru-engine-maintenance-kit-6l-subaru-wrx-2015-2021-forester-xt-2014-2018?variant=12413122936928
I know this is a VA video, but question for the VB: i ended getting motul 8100 x clean + (plus) , should i exchange it for the efe instead? (running Subaru's 5w30 oil at the moment & a tune)
Great question! I wouldn’t worry about going through all of the trouble returning or exchanging what you have. Just be more aware next time and for future changes. Keep an eye on engine oil levels to detect any changes. Some oil blends will burn faster than others.
awesome! will do, thank you for getting back to me!
@@Cugine7 no problem, keep enjoying your car! 🤘🏻
Why did you choose to keep the hood insulation on?
Why not? It looks proper and provides under hood… insulation! 😂
@@ImportImageRacing Always wondered if there was any extra heat disapiation to be had, seen you left it on and wondered if there was a reason outside of the obvious :P (mice ate mine, so it got tossed)
Do you recommend 3k mile oil change intervals or 4-5k mile intervals? Thanks for this as I’m coming up to 27k miles on my 2015 and I’m thinking of doing the trans and diff fluid change.
You can do it! 💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼 We recommend standard oil change increments of 5k miles. I drive my car HARD… so you might catch me doing it more often than that!
Awesome thank you. I was going to say with oil that pricey changing it every 3k would get costly. Glad to hear promoting of more modern day oil change intervals.
@@joseescobar177 be smart, if you think you give it hell for 3k miles… do it then! If you mostly drive “normal”, it’s easy to make it to 5k! 😂
Hey, from all the information coming out on the interwebs. I hear 3k miles is normal.
Is this oil ok for stock EJs (2021 STi)?
I would strongly recommend Motul ECO-nergy 5w30 for standard EJ20 and EJ25 engines.
Made a HUGE mess on my first go yesterday. Wish I’d seen this video sooner! Oh well, I’ll get it right in 30k miles when it’s time to do it again 😎
DANG! You'll get it next time FOR SURE!
Well direct injection is similar to a Diesel engine even if it has spark plug and lower compression. Also atomization is not nearly as good as port injection because the fuel doesn’t actually have enough time to convert in to vapour and when your turbo boost is low you are actually causing damage to your engine. The system works normal once you are under full boost just like diesel you need the extra heat from the turbo compressor to actually convert improve atomization of the fuel and provide complete combustion . So basically if you want your can too last drive it hard and don’t idle the engine for too long . This will prevent carbon build up because you will achieve complete combustion. If you are planning to stay in traffic and idle the engine a lot it is a logical choice to take the NA engine because the compression is higher and complete automisation of the fuel will be achieved simply by the engine compression this will produce complete combustion and prevent carbon build up that is basically result from incomplete combustion. Oil change are important especially the correct oil but bad driving habits especially now with turbo direct injection are critical. Basically low load driving with extended idle in traffic would be NA engine high load driving with minimum idle time turbo engine it is that simple. Remember with direct injection you need to buy the horse power that you are going to use and not the horse power that you want just to show to you friends or use for few seconds on the high way just to scratch your ego if you want your engine to last . Current engines are so advanced this is not your grandfather Camaro with carburetor and 9 to 1 compression ratio that can sit and idle for a day and produce 40 hp per litre of displacement.
Woohoo! Great video! Where've you been? New sub 🎉
We’ve been around……. 😏
@@ImportImageRacing 😅
I've got a '16 wrx. Change your fluids more often friend. You've got metal mad shavings in the front AND back. I change oil every 2k miles, and all other fluids every 15k. Last change I had no shavings at all. Lack of proper maintenance will kill the car. Fluids are cheaper than a toasted trans
Thank you for your reply!
Where’s the kickflip?
It’s right here….. I just did it! 1 like = 1 kickflip
@@ImportImageRacing🤣
Just bought the last new 2023 brz but I always used valvoline enhanced protection OR full syn maxlife on my 21 wrx. It has the highest amount of moly available in commercially available GF6 5w30, and yes its superior to Xclean EFE in detergency as well as anti-friciton and has the best long term viscosity of all oils we tested in the FA20 over on R/WRX with blackstone. Yes this is all backed up by research and data. Yes Xcelan is a good oil, but its frankly overpriced and offers no benefits over the much cheaper valovline.
edit: also, dont waste your time "flat foot cranking" or priming these engines with new oil lol. these engine build pressure immediately, and dry cranking the engine is causing the same exact kind of wear as just starting it normally without the added benefit of warming up. i tell this to the morons i see pre-filling oil filters as well lol, the oil filter is literally upside and all the oil will drain out of it into the bottom of the pan as soon as you put it on, which will also make a huge ass mess.
also, where is your fumoto valve? attach a hose to it and run it directly into an empty oil jug for disposal. no splash, no pan, no drip. truly professional and the cleanest possible change.
Thank you for your response.
Thank you
Install a ridiculous large rear wing
….. or maybe a wing on top of a wing!!!
0:22 On my car when I should have gotten braces