Having driven Subarus for 27 years as well as working in the service department at a Subaru dealer for a few of those years, I have some issues with this. Oil, trans/diff, replacement intervals are great. Acutally, the trans/diff could go every 15k. Most don't realize how hot the diff fluids actually get. It's easy, cheap insurance. I see no reason to replace coolant every 15,000 miles. Spark plugs on the other hand, can most certainly wait. You run the risk of messing up the threads in your heads by doing it more than needed. A properly tuned and maintained Subaru does not detonate anymore than any other turbocharged car, and surely not enough to damage spark plugs in my experience. If you are wearing out spark plugs, there are other issues. AOS? Meh. I don't think a properly set up one is a bad idea, but it is surely not absolutely needed. Subaru's PCV system is complex and designed to be as efficient as it could be with restraints for emissions. If you have THAT much oil getting into your intake system, there might be other issues. For a non-tracked daily driver, money could be better spent elsewhere IMHO. A tracked car is a bit of a different story. Oil pick up? I don't disagree with the fact that a KillerB pick up is great insurance, I do disagree with your excitement that someone's stock pick up WILL CRACK. There are over 200,000 WRX and WRX STi's sold in the US, plus Forester, Baja, and Legacy and Outback turbo cars as well. The amount of cracked pick ups is a fraction of a fraction of the cars that are on the road. Now, if you are paranoid, by all means, replace it. You don't want to be the "lottery winner" when it comes to cracked oil pick ups. Radiator. Unless you are doing track days, there is no good reason to spend money on a radiator. Subaru's Calsonic radiators work perfectly fine for almost everyone. I believe the older WRX STi Group N(and possibly even Group A) cars all used the oem radiator. STi does now offer a Group N radiator for the VAB cars, but it may have as much to do with not getting clogged with dirt/mud/etc as it does with actual cooling efficiency. Cooling mod I have no issue with. But it works by getting hot coolant out of the head faster, not by pumping coolant into the head. A proper tune goes without saying. But, while it's not a fail safe, I would go to a Cobb Certified Tuner. This industry is weird in the sense that anyone can call themselves a "Pro" and because they know a bit more than the customer, the customer thinks they are a genius. The end user REALLY needs to do a lot of research before they gave the local "pro" money to tune their car. I'm surprised you did not touch at all on an equal length exhaust manifold at all. Just by design, they are more efficient with removing exhaust from the engine. I am not saying unequal length manifolds are the "smoking gun" when it comes to un-reliability, but I surely would spend the money on an equal length manifold before an external wastegate if reliability is your main concern. A good piece of advice is to always use OEM parts until you can't to achieve your goals. The best tuner parts in the world cannot come close to the amount of R&D and real world testing an oem manufacturer can provide, not to mention quality and fit and finish. The farther you stray away from oem, the farther you stray away from reliabiltiy. If an EWG or oil cooler or FMIC or whatever is absolutely necessary to achieve your goals, than fine. The problem is for the vast majority of car owners, it really isn't. You may be talking about new Subarus in this video, but I would have to say the number one problem I have seen over the years is that guys buy a WRX with 120,000 miles on it want to start modding it immediately. Ever pull your coolant temp sensor to see the corrosion on it? Think your stock O2 and MAF sensors are still reading spot on? Your ECU kind of relies on your MAF for...everything. Just give it a spray with MAF cleaner, I'm sure it will be good as new. How long you going to keep driving on oem coolant hoses? Not the radiator hoses, but the heater, TB and turbo coolant hoses. How about all, and I mean ALL the vacuum lines? You think they are still nice and soft and sealing perfectly? How many times in the last 18 years do you think your coil packs fired? They begin to wear out before they actually start "missing". This is the number one problem with Subaru and reliability. Before you buy a used Subaru, you should put aside $2,000-3000(just for parts) just to get it back up to spec before you ever think about doing any modding whatsoever. These kids only see videos on "Built blocks, AOS's, EWGs, FMIC's,etc." and then get pissed because they are stranded on the side of the road because their 17 year old alternator died.
@IscoSullo I have a question. I just bought a 2010 impreza for a steal of a deal but besides it being stock I have no clue what maintenance has been done to it an was wondering what a 100k mile service would look like? I'm thinking spark plugs, coil packs, timing belt alignment, fuel filter. If you have anything else to add that would be awesome. Im someone that cares more about reliability then big power. Thankyou
What temp does the diff hit extended driving 80mph, 100mph, 120mph? Just curious as I've had very cool tacoma differentials before. The outback differential seemed faily cool. But I've also seen some hot subaru differentials like there wasn't enough backlash or something was wrong.
@@PQR5CHE I have been running Motul Xclean. I have Blackstone Labs reports showing the motor is doing well with it. I have yet to have to add Oil between the 3k mile interval changes. Do not run cheap off the shelf oil in this motor. It needs quality Synthetic oil.
It really all comes down to How you drive. If you drive it daily and don't go fast & the furious all day everyday and keeping it stock with regular maintenance your car will last longer.
I really enjoyed this video: I appreciate that you have these mods in stages, and actually address reliability. Most videos I see are just first mods kind of videos, but never mention reliability, so thank you for that. I also really love that you recommend, not only parts, but the brands that you use or know are good. I feel confident enough to come back to your channel for installs and reliable information. Although I don't have my STI anymore, I plan to get another one in the future and do the stage 2 stuff you recommended ( because I was over that stock power real quick lol). Thank you for the helpful info! Subscribed!🤗🤗🤗🤗
My oil pick up broke on my old blobeye while in 5th gear at 3500rpm. It was an unpleasant experience, but it still drove the 10 miles home. That car was a trooper.
Funny you mentioned a built block. I got my sti a few months back and already looking at purchasing/rebuilding a 2JZ to toss in there in a couple of years. But, after having two cars with the 2J and owning my first ej, I must say I loveee my Subaru. Great tips! Much needed
Thank you for the support! We just finished building my buddy's 2J 240. Great engines and they can take a beating for sure. EJs are just weird engines but for some reason I love them lol
3k miles is a good rule of thumb if your car is semi-new and you don't beat on it. Better practice is to check your oil every time you fill up it's pretty easy to tell when your oil is getting worn out. If you happen to have a tunnel in your daily commute like me you might be looking closer to 1.5k-2k miles, check your oil not your odometer.
Lol the tunnels get us everytime 🤣 but your right checking the oil when filling up is good practice to follow. Especially if your car consumes a good amount.
Looked at a lot of your content and it's great. I just bought an 08 a month ago... Sadly my experience hasn't been well... I'm having a no crank issue with my 2008 WRX, everything lights up but it just doesn't crank at all I don't hear a fuel prime nor do I hear relays or switches in my cabin when I put the key in attempt to start the car. The car was running fine prior to this... All I did was swap out coil two and four along with new plugs and put the battery back the car started up just fine. I was getting a P0304. She started up and ran for about 30 minutes with no issues. As I pulled away it's simply stopped running while my instruments and everything else was on at the end of my block. I turned the key.. Panel lights up but no crank at all. Everything has red 12.6 and I have not found a blown fuse yet. After several hours of testing I gave up and sent the car to the dealer. Subaru is the 1st car to ever defeat me. What do you think it could be? 2008 wrx 2.5L turbo 5 speed with 166xxx miles. Thanks
From my experience with an issue like this it's bad battery, blown fuse, bad relay or a damaged harness. From what you've already checked I'd say something in the harness. Not a fun time 😕
I’ve been contemplating on getting a 2008-2013 wax sti hatchback as a winter car and I’ve been trying to find sources that’ll help me know what to lookout for and what to do once I get the car and without a doubt this has been the most helpful video! Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Overall great video, although a few things I'd recommend differently are installing the cylinder 4 cooling mod and the oil pickup even if you are stock. The pickups can crack/break at any power level because they are garbage and the cooling mod will allow you to push your DD more reliably and its only $80. If you are considering an oil cooler, CSF racing actually makes a radiator with a built in oil cooler which is a great package. Also one of the biggest bangs for you buck as far as mods go (I know this will annoy some) is pick up a set of equal length headers, and lastly what should be common sense.... find a local reputable speed shop and talk to them about your goals to get keep your baby running happy. For oil, you really should be using a higher quality ester based oil like Motul/Redline/AMSoil/Schaeffers. They have a much higher HTHS rating and will better lubricate and protect your car, running Brotella is the oil equivalent of slapping on a VTA BOV and saying "Well my car hasn't blown up so it's not hurting anything"
I'll look into the CSF, haven't heard of them before. If it has a built in oil cooler that's fantastic. I agree with you on the ELH, I've always swapped out for a ELH, with this car I'll be swapping to the Killer B when the time comes. I had the Perrin set on my 07 STI and they were alright ish. I use Motul for all my other fluids, I'll snag some of their 5-30 and give it a try.
All your suggestions for sure!!....... important longer-term care, timing belt (at least) every 100,000, and do the water pump whilst your in there.......if you lose either of these components you are f'd.........timing belt failure usually means valves thru your pistons, and a water pump goin dead means instant overheat....ie: in subies-instant head gasket failure!.....................other than that, i'm still making an old OBS into a sti/wrx+, so I started with suspension/brake upgrades...................many love, much props
Great vid! However I must say that the GDT cooling mod pulls hot coolant out of the head via low pressure return of the heater hose and back to the water pump rather than pushing coolant into the head. The biggest factor that makes this car "unreliable" is that owners think this is a race car from the factory. It's not. End of story. Thanks for giving the community a different insight for a mod path.
Good to know how it works a little better, I've seen good results from it so we shall see how it does in the near future. Trying to give. Little more value to the community for some of the basic Questions I've seen out there
you should specify with the OTS tunes that if you have just what they list like a full exhaust and intake they are actually not that bad i tried to book in with a cobb protuner with my 2+ kit and he said dont bother and waste your money the ots tune is pretty spot on i dont get hardly any feedback knock and barely any real knock ever
Nice video man. Can’t wait to start building my 2019 sti. Thanks for the great advice! I never even thought about changing the spark plugs that early but I think I’ll do that first
Appreciate the support! I like to stay on top of the plugs when I can. If you look at my Spark Plug video you can see just how fouled they get just after 15k miles. Its insane
Subaru recommends 60K but when you start making more power I'd still suggest swapping them at 20-30K. More powers going to reduce the life span of the plugs.
Leave the car stock and follow the maintenance schedule set forth in the manual. In addition, don't thrash on the car till its warmed up. I think it also helps to keep the car clean inside and out.
Thank you for the support, its appreciated 😁 happy that everyone's getting some value out of these videos! If ya ever have any requests fell free to shoot them my way and I'll see what I cam do to cover them! 😁
I and my family have run numerous subarus for 20 years never had reliability issues when standard and even when modded went to 150000 kms until signs of engine wear. No issues with changing plugs at manufacturer recommended intervals and yes I put an aftermarket alloy radiator in my highly modded Forester XT after 6 years. I have a Perrin AOS on the modified Foz. Dump pipe and quality 3 inch TBE wakes the car up. I changed the oil pick up at 150000 to the Killer B set up and sump when the engine was swapped out. No issues but when dismantling original block saw the signs. Aftermarket air intake mods and blow off valves ? forget them total wank factor until you get highly modded.
I have a 16 STI, just do regular maintenance on it and make sure you monitor the oil level often and you should not have a problem. If you mod. it make sure you get it tuned ....
@the machinist yes thats why Toyota went with Subaru engine in the 86 and got Subaru to build the cars when they built their BRZ. Performance Toyota engines in past ten years?????? Even the new Supra has a BMW engine and build.. The days of the 1JZ and 2JZ are long gone.
Sheesh. He's had 7 STIs and I still have my only Celica GTS since 2002 (388k miles) and still rev to the moon all day. And it's prestine looking inside and out.
Keep the Celica Alive! My buddy had a late 80s Celica and they will last forever! Lol and I had a time where I jump from car to car a lot. The STi just kept pulling me back in 😅
@the machinist nope. original phase 1 EJ25 DOHC original leaked usually internally, the later phase 2 SOHC ones also leaked usually externally, 3 generations of legacys - ~1994 - ~2009
Spot on buddy couldn’t agree more. You missed how important high octane fuel is on level 1. Here in the uk, 360hp (crank) is about max you should but through your stock internals. Some are running 380-390hp with no issues in stock internals, but if you drive like a granny it will last. 👍
Assumed that it was a given that people need to use the correct fuel, however you are right have to make sure the proper fuel is used and without doing so will jeopardize the integrity of your car
Thanks so much for the video! Only found your stuff recently but I'm really enjoying the Subie-centric content. I'm looking at modding my 2010 STI (we talked on another video of yours about transmissions) and my goal is ultimately for a "powerful, reliable daily driver". I'm looking at an AOS, oil sump, cylinder cooling, downpipe and potentially injectors. And a tune of course. Maybe the rebuild isn't as necessary as I thought, but this video suggests I'm finding some good answers and going in a good direction. My target is about 350 HP. I guess if I was adding all this stuff, I'd pretty much have to tune it upon installation, right? That goes for about $700 USD where I'm from. I can't really buy everything all at once, so what's the best way to do this? Just buy the parts, and then when I'm ready install + tune all at once? Also, does it sound like I'm picking a good path to get my EJ257 to 350HP?
@@Smeedia Thanks for that mate. Bloody hell, feels like I have a bit to catch up on because one thing I'm watching and commenting on your slightly older vids, next thing you're putting an EG33 in 😆 Can you drop me your Insta? I want to follow, support, and be here as you grow! Also do you think the engine swap will mean your content is going to change quite a bit moving forward? Not so much the process of the swap, but subsequent videos after that?
I agree with all of the stuff you have listed in your description. I am definitely investing in most of that stuff, especially the oil pan/pickup/cooler. I have cylinder 4 mod and AOS already.
Not to say that it wont remain reliable, that depends on your driving style. But I've seen a plethora of Factory STIs fail even with the recommended service intervals. Personal preference I like to get it done prior
Well still in break-in mode. Just bought it and it has 700 miles on it. Maybe 5-8k miles a year. So I guess if I change twice a year its still 3k-4k OCI.
If you want the car to be reliable always do your maintenance on time don’t cheap out on parts and don’t drive like you stole it once in a while no problem but either than that it should last a while
YocoWheelin stock EJ’s spin bearings and crack ringlands just as much as modded ones, they are ticking time bombs. You can stave off some of the factory defects with mods, such as a oil catch can, EL header, oil cooler (basically every cooling mod you can do really), and a quality protune.
Leave it stock is my plan (2019 dyno is 295whp....so it is making more than 310hp stock at the crank....probably about 340 to 350 depending on drivetrain loss). OCI at 3k. No lugging. Good oil. Really good oil.
@@Smeedia so update, car already runs bad lolololol. 2nd, 3rd gear plus, when your flooring it you can totally feel it hesitating at 5k rpm. (bought warranty for car). Took it into subie and the tech said. "I do see what your talking about there. My scanner showed it actually going to 16psi with stock being 14psi, I almost always find a crack somewhere on these waste gates but other then that I'd say its ok. If you wanted to bring it back in to check on that and do a comp and leak down test we could always do that." I was gonna let them do it then but with the whole Corona thing i decided to take it home in case they shut down with my car in pieces. You have any thoughts? Car is totally stock but im thinking maybe it was tuned before with bolt ons and they put it back to stock but didn't change tune? (considering over boosting). I was gonna take it back in once this crap blows over but any help for now would help. Ty
How to keep your WRX STI or Lan Evo Reliable 🤔🤔 don't be like American white boys an make them into drag cars . Thay are Rally Cars for the Street .... Not ment to be 800/900+HP Streight Line Monsters ..... That's what you guys have your Muscle cars for 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
+1 hell yes, I notice that even the newer ones (19Wrx for me) there is so much fluctuation in my boost readings. Gotta install my boost controller and get my retune asap.
Bro your videos are on point, litteraly everything I wanna know. You make me not even want to make videos, like why watch mine when you can watch yours lol. Good job this is one of my favorite videos idk how many times I googled or TH-camd “how to make my sti reliable”. You nailed it! Keep it up!
I appreciate the detail of the video. I am thinking of a sti and am just on edge due to reliability, considering i have come off of a couple ford trucks that have ran 250k + miles with the original engines.
I am building my WRX to be kinda of off-road build but also kind of rally a bit of both I want to be able to play in the dunes and in the mountains and go just have fun in the snow whenever
I have a MY99 GC8 WRX JDM it's the model us Australians get and it still runs beautiful ot is a Sunday car hardly drive it have another 3 Subarus and Merc but love my GC8
I have a 2005 Legacy GT, which the previous owner modified heavily. I'm planning on investing in these mods to keep this thing reliable. I already have a tune, catless up-pipe, AVO top-mount intercooler, Stage 2 Clutch+flywheel, etc, but I want this thing to last a long time.
Thank you for the support! I see a lot of people skip the reliability portion when it comes to modifying and its such an important aspect! What all is done to your 15 so far?
@@Smeedia 100% stock so it's a clean slate. I'm thinking of doing coilovers & wheels first and then start the engine stuff. AOS > Exhaust > uppipe/dpipe > intake . Would like to get as much engine stuff done at once to save on not getting multiple pro tunes.
I agree with all of this except for the oil part, Rotella is really good along with Motul, that’s the only thing that I will run, other than that, great video! I would also add in getting equal length headers.
Thank you! I really appreciate it, I've taken some time to learn video editing and but the proper equipment to produce quality videos! 😁 still have a lot to learn but every video has more progress than the last
I can’t speak for the EJ, but I feel like the FA on the newer wrx are pretty solid when left stock. Great advice for modified cars but I feel regular recommended service is perfectly fine for a stock 15+ wrx especially with the Toyota involvement making this engine very reliable if kept stock
@@Thebearwand FA, im unsure about his engine mods but he had it repaired quite quickly as he somehow managed to put it on the dyno this week and achieve high HP ranges... Soo ill say modified right now at least.
JustJake well highly modified engines can break, well except for the 2jz lmao, and it sounds like your friend has more than just a Bolt on or two. Hope his engine stays sturdy and if he has any updates on the car on YT or social media I’d love to see the build. I’m keeping mine stock mostly because I don’t have the money to modify it properly but Knock on wood I’ve had no issues at 50k miles
I love how informative ur videos are on the subies, just recently came across ur channel and started watch, I love the knowledge packed videos, which alot of channels lack, thanks again
Man, I’ve been seen all these TH-camrs with their nice Subarus or just any other car, one thing they all have in common, they all install nice expensive parts and awesome killer tunes making beast power, but never touch maintenance and then they wonder why they break.
Awesome video; definitely saving this one! Been in and out of the Subaru scene since about 2002, so I knew some of these already, but having just bought my first STI this summer, it's nice to have a basic rundown of what to do all in one place. Haven't done much this year other than a catback exhaust, short shifter, front and rear shifter bushings, and various little cosmetic bits, but next year I'm hoping to get a bit more into it so I really appreciate seeing your experiences with the car, as well as watching the install videos.
Im glad that these videos are getting out there to help everyone! Ive been so consumed by Subaru that I can't get away from them. After having about 16 Subarus Ive made my fair share of mistakes over the years. Trying to get some of the good info out there that I've always seen posing up on Forums and Facebook postings covered. Really appreciate the support and its awesome to see that your getting some value out of these!
@@Smeedia Between my wife and I, the STI is our 9th Subaru, but only the 2nd one I've bothered to do any modifications to (the other being a 2018 BRZ that I had before the STI). Other than that it's been mostly various incarnations of the Legacy, and also 2 Forester turbos. Always wanted a WRX/STI, but always ended up getting something else for one reason or another.
@@saviordream I also had a 2018 BRZ! Fun cars to drive but just super slow. I couldn't do it anymore lol ended up selling it for my old Skyline a few cars ago. Ended up coming back to Subaru after that. Totally understandable, what forester generations have you had? Ive always wanted a 2008 Forester Xt but they're unicorns up here. Glad to hear that you made it back into an STI!
@@Smeedia My wife got our first Subaru, which was a 2005 Forester XT. I got my 2015 Forester XT when I left my job at the dealership (where I had demo cars to drive). In fact, we've had nothing but Subarus since 2005, with the exception of the Evo IX MR I bought in 2006. That was a blast, and really hoping the STI gives me half the enjoyment I had with that car (so far, so good, although not nearly as fast as my modded Evo!).
@@saviordream Evos are hard to beat when it comes to the bang for the buck, I almost bought a Evo 9 a few years back, few issues with the one I was looking at and they're so hard to find stock. The STIs have always satisfied every box that I've needed to check when it comes to a car and the newer ones are a much more adult version I think. I do miss my 2007 STI that I use to have but at a certain point you've got to keep up with the new tech that's coming out. Subarus are where Ive been, My lady just got a 2017 Impreza sport the other day and for just being an Impreza they are crazy nice now that they are on Subarus global platform.
i mean ive been tracking my 03 forester since i was 13 (now 17) and its had zero problems because i just look after it and check everything important on it, also get new silicon hoses (all of them) ever 18 or so months just to keep that with peace of mind when im out thrashing it
Modifying the fuel system, so that the fuel rails are ran in parallel instead of in series would be a great addition to both level 2 and level 3 stages of reliability.
You should buy jdm sti spec-c and rebuild it from rhd to lhd, because usdm sti is not very good. On jdm there are already all goodies like oil cooling, bigger oil pump, different oil pan, no probs with 4th cylinder, stronger block, bigger intake with ported heads, bigger twinscroll ballbearing turbo, antisurge fuel pump, shorter ratio gearbox, stonger lightweight chassis etc. And go to the track all day long with no issues. No modification needed. :D
I would love to in the future I recently bought my house so cant jump on a second one quite yet! But I agree all the JDM cars come with the good stuff 😫 I'd love another 07 STI
You can mod it but drive responsibly. Every once a while driving spiritedly is cool but don’t do launches everyday or drive hard everyday. Major problem is most don’t listen to the car and push beyond limits. That is when we encounter blown motor or etc.
Equal length headers is the only thing i can think to add, the subbie rumble is notoriously bad for the car and causes a lot of the cylinder heat irregularities
Do you have a link for the air oil separator? I have a 2019 wrx. Any help would be amazing! Great videos and I tell everyone about them. Keep up the good work. I want my car to last.
Perfect timing, was looking into getting Dom's cyl 4 cooling mod next, then the oil pickup, and baffles for the OEM oil pan. I dont really plan on tracking it, but like to hit the cloverleaf turn offs on the freeway pretty quick
@@Smeedia I am ordering one next Friday as well. It would be cool if you could try and replicate the head surface temp test Dom did. Validation would go a long way. Or somehow insert a temperature probe and take readings while driving using a Fluke meter. I may do this myelf since I have the tooling. If people want to see it. I can make a video.
I've got the tools to do so, if I have enough time I'll try and incorporate it into the video. Bouncing between work, school and making videos gets a little tough at time 😅 I'll try and work it in though! Great idea!
I just changed my plugs at 60k and they looked almost new. I regularly run fuel additives (snake oil if you will) and in my experience they do help. One thing I don't understand is diff/trans at 15k as my service manual just says inspect every 30k. One thing that might be different here is the difference between the FA and EJ motors? Not totally sure. But as an engineer I have to bring up the disappointment that is Subaru's ignorance of carbon buildup on the intake valves.
Agrees that subarus intervals are more spread out than mine. I just swapped the gear oil about 2 weeks ago and you can see how quick the oil on the trans and diff degraded over 20K miles. The carbon build up is another aspect that they could have rectified with the WRX
GDIs will always have carbon buildup, sad but true, the addition of a AOS is also helpful in preventing sledge. Seafoam and CRC make a Intake Cleaner that is helpful in slowing the carbon buildup, but one should inspect intake valves at some point to see if additional clean up is required to keep that GDI motor running efficiently and prevent any damage to the valve/head.
I've had the mapformance stage 1 on my car , 93 octane for almost 38k miles. no problems ever. but I also just have a catback, group n mount and some other transmission upgrades. I called mikey botti or what ever his name is for a e tune, but never sent through with it cause I was going to buy an sti. never did and forgot about it, but like I said no problems. but I also don't beat on my car and I change my oil alot. one last thing the dealer I take my car to has never said anything about my reflash. I put it right back to stock the first 3 times for tob replacements and not a thing. it only shows it was a cel count or whatever. there is no tool that says this person just had an ap on this car . unless the last 3 dealers lied to me the last 4 years lol.
High mileage EJ22 NA owner, i was getting hesitation and poor performance from the old girl - catch can helped (blow by / oil fumes = oil + fuel = lower octane = pinging = timing retarded = hesitation, also oily carbon deposits), also did a knock sensor mod (rubber between knock sensor and block to limit what it detects, moved it back near the transmission) - helped, finally did a knock sensor delete (resistors to ground, no knock sensor) to kill the hesitation (no pinging unless i run crap fuel) - my valves / piston slap / worn engine seems to trigger the knock sensor/ hesitation. Even the old 4EAT auto box shifts smoother (i have heard the transmissions can misbehave because of the ECU, can confirm). Don't do this until you have exhausted the usual suspects because usually hesitation is because of actual issues/faults causing the knocking and the ECU doing its job. Hopefully this might help someone out there, the knock sensors seem far too sensitive.
Dude I love this channel already. Just subscribed! My engine blew up (Rod knock) on my 04WRX. BUT, I’m in stage 3 on your list for as a daily driver lol
Smeedia sure thing! High quality content needs to be supported. I went stage 2 block with build internals. Pistons, rods ect. Killer B oil pan and pick up, 84mm FPblue turbo between some other stuff. I have a full list, is a lot of stuff. I should be getting the car back some time soon. But I won’t push it to hard since I still have the 04 5speed tranny.
@@Fastmosquito555 IAG block or someone else? Also E85 or pump? I have like no E85 anywhere near me so I'm forever stuck on pump gas 😥 whatsbyour game plan for that trans? 🤔
Smeedia Someone else, is a great shop located in MD. And I will stay on pump since the 04 wrx’s ecu hates E85. It hurts me since I have a E85 gas station 4 minutes away from my house, but I will play it safe. And I will do a STI swap after I recover from this financial mistake lol.
So long story short, I now own a Subaru 02 wrx impreza with a blown engine and no blow off valve, I don’t know where to start to fix it and what to expect after, what do you suggest?? I’m willing to put what I need to bring it back to life, it’s a true beauty
If I were you I would buy a EJ207 and swap that in. You can get drop in 207s for around $3000-$3500. Arugably the most reliable subaru engine ever built!
Great video man I have almost everything on your list already except an oil cooler and radiator. I’ve read people on forums saying that oil coolers are bed because they’ll make your oil too cold and it just sounds ridiculous. I was wondering if you could do a dedicated video to oil coolers when you do yours
Interesting, I'll have tonlppo into that a little more, I haven't seen that but I'll dig around into it a bit. Yes I will I'll get it in my que for videos to do one on oil coolers 😁
I could imagine that some oil cooler setups can be an issue depending on the situation. For example, Mishimotos oil cooler setups come with a "Thermostatic" Sandwich adaptor that utilizes a small thermostat that allows the oil to get up to temp and circulates it similar to what you expect from your cooling system. Great for cold weather climates. Some systems use a wide open cooler which would obviously be detrimental in cold climates as oil wouldn't get up to temp, but for strictly track cars could prove useful in certain climates.
but alot of good info in this vid. you just ordered a lol catch can cause of this. didn't have the funds to get the aos or at least the one i found online just now, with xmas and all for the kids. so hopefully the catch can will be better then nothing :)
My problem is. I have a stock 2015 Sti and I can’t do anything reliability wise to it cause it would void my warranty. Can’t even do my own oil changes. 80% of the time I shift at 2800-3000. When I do build boost it’s in 2nd gear above 3000 rpm. I let it idle down for awhile to cool the turbo. And I used Rotella T6 for oil change. But I have to take it somewhere now for that too even....
Having driven Subarus for 27 years as well as working in the service department at a Subaru dealer for a few of those years, I have some issues with this.
Oil, trans/diff, replacement intervals are great. Acutally, the trans/diff could go every 15k. Most don't realize how hot the diff fluids actually get. It's easy, cheap insurance. I see no reason to replace coolant every 15,000 miles.
Spark plugs on the other hand, can most certainly wait. You run the risk of messing up the threads in your heads by doing it more than needed. A properly tuned and maintained Subaru does not detonate anymore than any other turbocharged car, and surely not enough to damage spark plugs in my experience. If you are wearing out spark plugs, there are other issues.
AOS? Meh. I don't think a properly set up one is a bad idea, but it is surely not absolutely needed. Subaru's PCV system is complex and designed to be as efficient as it could be with restraints for emissions. If you have THAT much oil getting into your intake system, there might be other issues. For a non-tracked daily driver, money could be better spent elsewhere IMHO. A tracked car is a bit of a different story.
Oil pick up? I don't disagree with the fact that a KillerB pick up is great insurance, I do disagree with your excitement that someone's stock pick up WILL CRACK. There are over 200,000 WRX and WRX STi's sold in the US, plus Forester, Baja, and Legacy and Outback turbo cars as well. The amount of cracked pick ups is a fraction of a fraction of the cars that are on the road. Now, if you are paranoid, by all means, replace it. You don't want to be the "lottery winner" when it comes to cracked oil pick ups.
Radiator. Unless you are doing track days, there is no good reason to spend money on a radiator. Subaru's Calsonic radiators work perfectly fine for almost everyone. I believe the older WRX STi Group N(and possibly even Group A) cars all used the oem radiator. STi does now offer a Group N radiator for the VAB cars, but it may have as much to do with not getting clogged with dirt/mud/etc as it does with actual cooling efficiency.
Cooling mod I have no issue with. But it works by getting hot coolant out of the head faster, not by pumping coolant into the head.
A proper tune goes without saying. But, while it's not a fail safe, I would go to a Cobb Certified Tuner. This industry is weird in the sense that anyone can call themselves a "Pro" and because they know a bit more than the customer, the customer thinks they are a genius. The end user REALLY needs to do a lot of research before they gave the local "pro" money to tune their car.
I'm surprised you did not touch at all on an equal length exhaust manifold at all. Just by design, they are more efficient with removing exhaust from the engine. I am not saying unequal length manifolds are the "smoking gun" when it comes to un-reliability, but I surely would spend the money on an equal length manifold before an external wastegate if reliability is your main concern.
A good piece of advice is to always use OEM parts until you can't to achieve your goals. The best tuner parts in the world cannot come close to the amount of R&D and real world testing an oem manufacturer can provide, not to mention quality and fit and finish. The farther you stray away from oem, the farther you stray away from reliabiltiy. If an EWG or oil cooler or FMIC or whatever is absolutely necessary to achieve your goals, than fine. The problem is for the vast majority of car owners, it really isn't.
You may be talking about new Subarus in this video, but I would have to say the number one problem I have seen over the years is that guys buy a WRX with 120,000 miles on it want to start modding it immediately. Ever pull your coolant temp sensor to see the corrosion on it? Think your stock O2 and MAF sensors are still reading spot on? Your ECU kind of relies on your MAF for...everything. Just give it a spray with MAF cleaner, I'm sure it will be good as new. How long you going to keep driving on oem coolant hoses? Not the radiator hoses, but the heater, TB and turbo coolant hoses. How about all, and I mean ALL the vacuum lines? You think they are still nice and soft and sealing perfectly? How many times in the last 18 years do you think your coil packs fired? They begin to wear out before they actually start "missing". This is the number one problem with Subaru and reliability. Before you buy a used Subaru, you should put aside $2,000-3000(just for parts) just to get it back up to spec before you ever think about doing any modding whatsoever. These kids only see videos on "Built blocks, AOS's, EWGs, FMIC's,etc." and then get pissed because they are stranded on the side of the road because their 17 year old alternator died.
IscaSullo What oil would you recommend for a 2020 STI? Thanks
@IscoSullo I have a question. I just bought a 2010 impreza for a steal of a deal but besides it being stock I have no clue what maintenance has been done to it an was wondering what a 100k mile service would look like? I'm thinking spark plugs, coil packs, timing belt alignment, fuel filter. If you have anything else to add that would be awesome. Im someone that cares more about reliability then big power. Thankyou
What temp does the diff hit extended driving 80mph, 100mph, 120mph? Just curious as I've had very cool tacoma differentials before. The outback differential seemed faily cool. But I've also seen some hot subaru differentials like there wasn't enough backlash or something was wrong.
Well stated with facts and experience.
@@PQR5CHE I have been running Motul Xclean. I have Blackstone Labs reports showing the motor is doing well with it. I have yet to have to add Oil between the 3k mile interval changes.
Do not run cheap off the shelf oil in this motor. It needs quality Synthetic oil.
How to make your Subaru reliable. Build the engine, use stronger head studs, and buy a Kevlar headgasket. Will be fine forever. Done.
That’s expensive :/
gotta pay to play
@@erickpina8802 not as expensive as you'd think tbh
Keep it stock drive it for what it is buy a warranty that’s it. If you wanna build a car buy a older one build the motor exactly what Andy said
I just got my subaru, is this all? Sounds easy enough. What else?
"I've had 7 STI's" sounds funny in the dirty way, I'm sorry. lol
Lol what can I say I like to get weird 🤣
“How to make the wrx/sti reliable”
- Don’t mod it 😂.
That's no fun though 😫
don't forget , buy it brand new
PR1NCETD0T my stock wrx just blew up the other day /:
gabe chimichanga money shifted? Old motor? Or factory defect?
Don't mod it without supporting software...
It really all comes down to How you drive. If you drive it daily and don't go fast & the furious all day everyday and keeping it stock with regular maintenance your car will last longer.
Owner mod installed correctly is the one and only true way to keep ANY car reliable.
Love that driving style was on top of the list, I got 2 family members that treat everything like a race car and blame the car for failures, smh...
Plays one of the biggest factors in the life span 🙏
I just got my first sti after being a mustang guy for about 7 years. I have a lot to learn so thanks for helping me!
Mintieness Make sure you find a good tuner.
jon lo only have a muffler delete until my warranty is up haha
I really enjoyed this video: I appreciate that you have these mods in stages, and actually address reliability. Most videos I see are just first mods kind of videos, but never mention reliability, so thank you for that. I also really love that you recommend, not only parts, but the brands that you use or know are good. I feel confident enough to come back to your channel for installs and reliable information. Although I don't have my STI anymore, I plan to get another one in the future and do the stage 2 stuff you recommended ( because I was over that stock power real quick lol). Thank you for the helpful info! Subscribed!🤗🤗🤗🤗
Thank you for the support! I'm glad that you are able to get some value out of the video! 😁😁😁
Most ppl usually list them as Safety Mods.
My oil pick up broke on my old blobeye while in 5th gear at 3500rpm. It was an unpleasant experience, but it still drove the 10 miles home. That car was a trooper.
That's actually impressive 😅
@@Smeedia I still don't believe it, and I kept the piston that blew out to commemorate it.
watching all this vids while saving up for my dream car
You'll get there! 🙏🙏🙏
Funny you mentioned a built block. I got my sti a few months back and already looking at purchasing/rebuilding a 2JZ to toss in there in a couple of years. But, after having two cars with the 2J and owning my first ej, I must say I loveee my Subaru. Great tips! Much needed
Thank you for the support! We just finished building my buddy's 2J 240. Great engines and they can take a beating for sure. EJs are just weird engines but for some reason I love them lol
Keep it completely stock.
3k miles is a good rule of thumb if your car is semi-new and you don't beat on it. Better practice is to check your oil every time you fill up it's pretty easy to tell when your oil is getting worn out. If you happen to have a tunnel in your daily commute like me you might be looking closer to 1.5k-2k miles, check your oil not your odometer.
Lol the tunnels get us everytime 🤣 but your right checking the oil when filling up is good practice to follow. Especially if your car consumes a good amount.
@@Smeediawhy tunnels?
I am a simple man, I see white board I click like
I like your style 😍
So great sports care/sport-like car that can't be floored without the engine exploding. That sounds reliable.
actually good advice from someone who did his research. I'll send people to this video.
Thank you! It is greatly appreciated!
80% true ,but....
Looked at a lot of your content and it's great. I just bought an 08 a month ago... Sadly my experience hasn't been well... I'm having a no crank issue with my 2008 WRX, everything lights up but it just doesn't crank at all I don't hear a fuel prime nor do I hear relays or switches in my cabin when I put the key in attempt to start the car. The car was running fine prior to this... All I did was swap out coil two and four along with new plugs and put the battery back the car started up just fine. I was getting a P0304.
She started up and ran for about 30 minutes with no issues.
As I pulled away it's simply stopped running while my instruments and everything else was on at the end of my block. I turned the key.. Panel lights up but no crank at all.
Everything has red 12.6 and I have not found a blown fuse yet. After several hours of testing I gave up and sent the car to the dealer.
Subaru is the 1st car to ever defeat me.
What do you think it could be?
2008 wrx 2.5L turbo 5 speed with 166xxx miles.
Thanks
From my experience with an issue like this it's bad battery, blown fuse, bad relay or a damaged harness. From what you've already checked I'd say something in the harness. Not a fun time 😕
Good to know since I’m a brand new owner of a 2019 WRX ! Great vid bro.
PS the level of the white board is bugging the hell out of me hahaha !
The tapping was killing me, I had no idea I was tapping on it until I went to edit the video 🤣
CHINOsauvecito great news for you, the fa20 in your WRX is a lot less likely to blow up then a ej255/57 stock or basic bolt ons
I’ve been contemplating on getting a 2008-2013 wax sti hatchback as a winter car and I’ve been trying to find sources that’ll help me know what to lookout for and what to do once I get the car and without a doubt this has been the most helpful video! Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Hopefully your able to find one and glaf the videos are helping! 😁
Overall great video, although a few things I'd recommend differently are installing the cylinder 4 cooling mod and the oil pickup even if you are stock. The pickups can crack/break at any power level because they are garbage and the cooling mod will allow you to push your DD more reliably and its only $80. If you are considering an oil cooler, CSF racing actually makes a radiator with a built in oil cooler which is a great package. Also one of the biggest bangs for you buck as far as mods go (I know this will annoy some) is pick up a set of equal length headers, and lastly what should be common sense.... find a local reputable speed shop and talk to them about your goals to get keep your baby running happy.
For oil, you really should be using a higher quality ester based oil like Motul/Redline/AMSoil/Schaeffers. They have a much higher HTHS rating and will better lubricate and protect your car, running Brotella is the oil equivalent of slapping on a VTA BOV and saying "Well my car hasn't blown up so it's not hurting anything"
I'll look into the CSF, haven't heard of them before. If it has a built in oil cooler that's fantastic. I agree with you on the ELH, I've always swapped out for a ELH, with this car I'll be swapping to the Killer B when the time comes. I had the Perrin set on my 07 STI and they were alright ish. I use Motul for all my other fluids, I'll snag some of their 5-30 and give it a try.
All your suggestions for sure!!....... important longer-term care, timing belt (at least) every 100,000, and do the water pump whilst your in there.......if you lose either of these components you are f'd.........timing belt failure usually means valves thru your pistons, and a water pump goin dead means instant overheat....ie: in subies-instant head gasket failure!.....................other than that, i'm still making an old OBS into a sti/wrx+, so I started with suspension/brake upgrades...................many love, much props
Thank you! And for sure, the timing belt is another one that gets over looked also, appreciate the comment! 😁
Great vid! However I must say that the GDT cooling mod pulls hot coolant out of the head via low pressure return of the heater hose and back to the water pump rather than pushing coolant into the head.
The biggest factor that makes this car "unreliable" is that owners think this is a race car from the factory. It's not. End of story.
Thanks for giving the community a different insight for a mod path.
Good to know how it works a little better, I've seen good results from it so we shall see how it does in the near future. Trying to give. Little more value to the community for some of the basic Questions I've seen out there
Great points, Joe. Reliability>>Power !
😅 My name is also Tanner Smith, was born in 93 and work on Subarus. Wild.
this definitely confirmed it for me. Nice video man, I'm saving up for an STI (any year from 2015-now) and it was soo helpful
Thank you! Hopefully you get yours soon! They're fun cars for sure 😁
you should specify with the OTS tunes that if you have just what they list like a full exhaust and intake they are actually not that bad i tried to book in with a cobb protuner with my 2+ kit and he said dont bother and waste your money the ots tune is pretty spot on i dont get hardly any feedback knock and barely any real knock ever
Coolant and plugs at 15k is insanely wasteful.
I like to stay on top of it 🤷♂️
Smeedia yep.The more you change the plug the better ! I change mine every 12mhs .I drive 12-15 thousand KMs a year!
I would say 30k
Corvus556 You sound broke. Stick to Corollas bro
Depends on what your setup is.
171,000 miles on my 2004 WRX all stock daily driven nothing needs to be changed it’s reliable on its own
Driving style plays a role, sounds like its cared for. I'm guessing you dont abuse it and do the maintenance when required. Responsible owner 🔥
Nice video man. Can’t wait to start building my 2019 sti. Thanks for the great advice! I never even thought about changing the spark plugs that early but I think I’ll do that first
Appreciate the support! I like to stay on top of the plugs when I can. If you look at my Spark Plug video you can see just how fouled they get just after 15k miles. Its insane
Welp kinda late to say this, but don't. Plugs are not worn out or fouled at 15k, and if they are, you got bigger problems.
Subaru recommends 60K but when you start making more power I'd still suggest swapping them at 20-30K. More powers going to reduce the life span of the plugs.
Leave the car stock and follow the maintenance schedule set forth in the manual. In addition, don't thrash on the car till its warmed up. I think it also helps to keep the car clean inside and out.
Not fun to leave it stock though, you can modify them reliability
Literally helping me a lot with my build. Forsure gonna put those notifications on. Sound and look like a great guy. Keep it up man!!
Thank you for the support, its appreciated 😁 happy that everyone's getting some value out of these videos! If ya ever have any requests fell free to shoot them my way and I'll see what I cam do to cover them! 😁
Oil catch cans, proper fueling and octane, equal length headers, letting them properly warm up before hooning, and good tune
0:13 that’s not something you hear everyday
This is a great list! I hate seeing so many subarus not well maintained espically modded out
Ive seen too many ill maintained 😖
My G I'm going to build my dream sti to 800 Hp this vid will help out in the future
My first STI was an 08, I miss my old hatch sometimes. Glad that it will be helpful to you! Whatcha got planned for it?
I and my family have run numerous subarus for 20 years never had reliability issues when standard and even when modded went to 150000 kms until signs of engine wear. No issues with changing plugs at manufacturer recommended intervals and yes I put an aftermarket alloy radiator in my highly modded Forester XT after 6 years. I have a Perrin AOS on the modified Foz. Dump pipe and quality 3 inch TBE wakes the car up. I changed the oil pick up at 150000 to the Killer B set up and sump when the engine was swapped out. No issues but when dismantling original block saw the signs. Aftermarket air intake mods and blow off valves ? forget them total wank factor until you get highly modded.
Awesome energy and great advice. Thank you.
Thank you 😁
I have a 16 STI, just do regular maintenance on it and make sure you monitor the oil level often and you should not have a problem. If you mod. it make sure you get it tuned ....
Pretty much, regular maintenance goes far on these cars and is so often over looked for some reason.
Step one, swap in toyota parts. Step two drive it for 4-5x the normal length a subaru lasts
@the machinist yes thats why Toyota went with Subaru engine in the 86 and got Subaru to build the cars when they built their BRZ. Performance Toyota engines in past ten years?????? Even the new Supra has a BMW engine and build.. The days of the 1JZ and 2JZ are long gone.
Sheesh. He's had 7 STIs and I still have my only Celica GTS since 2002 (388k miles) and still rev to the moon all day. And it's prestine looking inside and out.
Keep the Celica Alive! My buddy had a late 80s Celica and they will last forever! Lol and I had a time where I jump from car to car a lot. The STi just kept pulling me back in 😅
*blows heads gasket in sarcasm*
@the machinist nope. original phase 1 EJ25 DOHC original leaked usually internally, the later phase 2 SOHC ones also leaked usually externally, 3 generations of legacys - ~1994 - ~2009
@the machinist yup NA
Spot on buddy couldn’t agree more. You missed how important high octane fuel is on level 1. Here in the uk, 360hp (crank) is about max you should but through your stock internals. Some are running 380-390hp with no issues in stock internals, but if you drive like a granny it will last. 👍
Assumed that it was a given that people need to use the correct fuel, however you are right have to make sure the proper fuel is used and without doing so will jeopardize the integrity of your car
Thanks so much for the video! Only found your stuff recently but I'm really enjoying the Subie-centric content. I'm looking at modding my 2010 STI (we talked on another video of yours about transmissions) and my goal is ultimately for a "powerful, reliable daily driver". I'm looking at an AOS, oil sump, cylinder cooling, downpipe and potentially injectors. And a tune of course. Maybe the rebuild isn't as necessary as I thought, but this video suggests I'm finding some good answers and going in a good direction. My target is about 350 HP.
I guess if I was adding all this stuff, I'd pretty much have to tune it upon installation, right? That goes for about $700 USD where I'm from. I can't really buy everything all at once, so what's the best way to do this? Just buy the parts, and then when I'm ready install + tune all at once? Also, does it sound like I'm picking a good path to get my EJ257 to 350HP?
Stock pile the parts until your ready for a tune, install it all at once then tune and you should be good to go 🔥🙏
@@Smeedia Thanks for that mate. Bloody hell, feels like I have a bit to catch up on because one thing I'm watching and commenting on your slightly older vids, next thing you're putting an EG33 in 😆
Can you drop me your Insta? I want to follow, support, and be here as you grow! Also do you think the engine swap will mean your content is going to change quite a bit moving forward? Not so much the process of the swap, but subsequent videos after that?
Not really, we have 2 other EJ cars here that need work so just opens up a little more diversity 😁 and Instagram is @Smeedia_
😁😁
Along with everything on level one and for regular maintenance purposes, don’t forget Air Filter
proper driving habits go a long way
I agree with all of the stuff you have listed in your description. I am definitely investing in most of that stuff, especially the oil pan/pickup/cooler. I have cylinder 4 mod and AOS already.
I accidentally clicked on this while trying to find shmee
Reliable, everything he said in level 1.
Keep it stock with maybe a pro tune.
Enjoy your car!! (Daily driver).
Are you saying that my STI I bought new wont remain reliable if I follow the service schedule and do not mod?
Not to say that it wont remain reliable, that depends on your driving style. But I've seen a plethora of Factory STIs fail even with the recommended service intervals. Personal preference I like to get it done prior
Well still in break-in mode. Just bought it and it has 700 miles on it. Maybe 5-8k miles a year. So I guess if I change twice a year its still 3k-4k OCI.
If you want the car to be reliable always do your maintenance on time don’t cheap out on parts and don’t drive like you stole it once in a while no problem but either than that it should last a while
Don't modify it. Problem solved.
Well that's just no fun
you can still do basic mods ie:bolt-ons only and it will not risk or change the reliability of it all
YocoWheelin stock EJ’s spin bearings and crack ringlands just as much as modded ones, they are ticking time bombs. You can stave off some of the factory defects with mods, such as a oil catch can, EL header, oil cooler (basically every cooling mod you can do really), and a quality protune.
AznPitbull 23 yeah like straight pipe it and get a cold air intake without a tune, that won’t hurt it at all
You seriously mean to tell me, modding a EJ motor doesn't effect the probability of a spun bearing?
Leave it stock is my plan (2019 dyno is 295whp....so it is making more than 310hp stock at the crank....probably about 340 to 350 depending on drivetrain loss). OCI at 3k. No lugging. Good oil. Really good oil.
He forgot to mention levels 4 through 10 ?🤔
We don't have the Technology :(
Just bought my first sti!! 11' plasma blue with only 41k original miles!
That's a good find!!!! Good mileage for the year 🔥
@@Smeedia so update, car already runs bad lolololol. 2nd, 3rd gear plus, when your flooring it you can totally feel it hesitating at 5k rpm. (bought warranty for car). Took it into subie and the tech said. "I do see what your talking about there. My scanner showed it actually going to 16psi with stock being 14psi, I almost always find a crack somewhere on these waste gates but other then that I'd say its ok. If you wanted to bring it back in to check on that and do a comp and leak down test we could always do that." I was gonna let them do it then but with the whole Corona thing i decided to take it home in case they shut down with my car in pieces. You have any thoughts? Car is totally stock but im thinking maybe it was tuned before with bolt ons and they put it back to stock but didn't change tune? (considering over boosting). I was gonna take it back in once this crap blows over but any help for now would help. Ty
Sell it before it breaks
If you can’t find or spend too much money on a tune. MAPerformance stage 1 tune for 1 year before i got a E-tune and literally had no problems
How to make a Subaru reliable?...... sell it and buy another car
Thank you for this ...I'm picking up my 1st STI tomorrow I've heard so many horror stories won't lie kinda nervous about it lol
Don't be! Definitely fun cars and worth it when you get a good one. My most recent 05 STI had been a worse case scenario situation lol
@@Smeedia ahh kk...getting a 2019 STI 4k miles on it
How to keep your WRX STI or Lan Evo Reliable 🤔🤔 don't be like American white boys an make them into drag cars . Thay are Rally Cars for the Street .... Not ment to be 800/900+HP Streight Line Monsters ..... That's what you guys have your Muscle cars for 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Only thing I'd add is properly warming up the car (driving habits) and when you get a tune, get an electronic boost controller.
+1 hell yes, I notice that even the newer ones (19Wrx for me) there is so much fluctuation in my boost readings. Gotta install my boost controller and get my retune asap.
Bro your videos are on point, litteraly everything I wanna know. You make me not even want to make videos, like why watch mine when you can watch yours lol. Good job this is one of my favorite videos idk how many times I googled or TH-camd “how to make my sti reliable”. You nailed it! Keep it up!
I appreciate the detail of the video. I am thinking of a sti and am just on edge due to reliability, considering i have come off of a couple ford trucks that have ran 250k + miles with the original engines.
If you keep up on maintenance and dont beat the hell out of it everyday, it will last 😁
Great video that explains the basics to people ! Everyone needs this before they start modding their car
That's what I'm going for, saw a lot of forums regarding these topics. Appreciate the support my dude 😁
I am building my WRX to be kinda of off-road build but also kind of rally a bit of both I want to be able to play in the dunes and in the mountains and go just have fun in the snow whenever
I have a MY99 GC8 WRX JDM it's the model us Australians get and it still runs beautiful ot is a Sunday car hardly drive it have another 3 Subarus and Merc but love my GC8
I have a 2005 Legacy GT, which the previous owner modified heavily. I'm planning on investing in these mods to keep this thing reliable. I already have a tune, catless up-pipe, AVO top-mount intercooler, Stage 2 Clutch+flywheel, etc, but I want this thing to last a long time.
Smart idea, at least some of the power mods are already done for you!
@@Smeedia Definitely. Going to do the cylinder 4 cooing, and AOS next. I love your content, and thanks for the swift reply :)
@@ThatWasherNerd Anytime! 😁
Thanks for the post. I'd like to get 350-375 whp on my 15 STI. This helps get me thinking in the reliability direction.
Thank you for the support! I see a lot of people skip the reliability portion when it comes to modifying and its such an important aspect! What all is done to your 15 so far?
@@Smeedia 100% stock so it's a clean slate. I'm thinking of doing coilovers & wheels first and then start the engine stuff. AOS > Exhaust > uppipe/dpipe > intake . Would like to get as much engine stuff done at once to save on not getting multiple pro tunes.
I would love to see a tie rod install/replacement, I know it’s not something you’d might do currently but if you come around to it 🤙
I've got you 🙏
th-cam.com/video/6ryJrGUbMKg/w-d-xo.html
Man, I drove a sti/Wrx for the first time. I loved it but those cars need so much love 😬😬😬
Just normal maintenance and they'll last 🤙
I agree with all of this except for the oil part, Rotella is really good along with Motul, that’s the only thing that I will run, other than that, great video! I would also add in getting equal length headers.
Agreed the ELH play a big role on it as well! Thanks for the support!
Appreciate All of your content! 🤘💯🤘
Appreciate the support!
Bro even though you have 1.6k subs. You make better quality videos than people who have 1.6 million subs.
Thank you! I really appreciate it, I've taken some time to learn video editing and but the proper equipment to produce quality videos! 😁 still have a lot to learn but every video has more progress than the last
I can’t speak for the EJ, but I feel like the FA on the newer wrx are pretty solid when left stock. Great advice for modified cars but I feel regular recommended service is perfectly fine for a stock 15+ wrx especially with the Toyota involvement making this engine very reliable if kept stock
I haven't seen too many problems out of the newer WRXs they seem pretty solid!
I know a guy who just blew his low end recently so...
@@TimberWulfIsHere couple of questions, First, was he driving a FA (WRX) engine or the EJ (STI). second, was he stock or was he modified?
@@Thebearwand FA, im unsure about his engine mods but he had it repaired quite quickly as he somehow managed to put it on the dyno this week and achieve high HP ranges... Soo ill say modified right now at least.
JustJake well highly modified engines can break, well except for the 2jz lmao, and it sounds like your friend has more than just a Bolt on or two. Hope his engine stays sturdy and if he has any updates on the car on YT or social media I’d love to see the build. I’m keeping mine stock mostly because I don’t have the money to modify it properly but Knock on wood I’ve had no issues at 50k miles
I love how informative ur videos are on the subies, just recently came across ur channel and started watch, I love the knowledge packed videos, which alot of channels lack, thanks again
Appreciate the feedback! Always good to hear that the videos are being helpful! 😁😁
Man, I’ve been seen all these TH-camrs with their nice Subarus or just any other car, one thing they all have in common, they all install nice expensive parts and awesome killer tunes making beast power, but never touch maintenance and then they wonder why they break.
Awesome video; definitely saving this one!
Been in and out of the Subaru scene since about 2002, so I knew some of these already, but having just bought my first STI this summer, it's nice to have a basic rundown of what to do all in one place.
Haven't done much this year other than a catback exhaust, short shifter, front and rear shifter bushings, and various little cosmetic bits, but next year I'm hoping to get a bit more into it so I really appreciate seeing your experiences with the car, as well as watching the install videos.
Im glad that these videos are getting out there to help everyone! Ive been so consumed by Subaru that I can't get away from them. After having about 16 Subarus Ive made my fair share of mistakes over the years. Trying to get some of the good info out there that I've always seen posing up on Forums and Facebook postings covered. Really appreciate the support and its awesome to see that your getting some value out of these!
@@Smeedia Between my wife and I, the STI is our 9th Subaru, but only the 2nd one I've bothered to do any modifications to (the other being a 2018 BRZ that I had before the STI). Other than that it's been mostly various incarnations of the Legacy, and also 2 Forester turbos. Always wanted a WRX/STI, but always ended up getting something else for one reason or another.
@@saviordream I also had a 2018 BRZ! Fun cars to drive but just super slow. I couldn't do it anymore lol ended up selling it for my old Skyline a few cars ago. Ended up coming back to Subaru after that. Totally understandable, what forester generations have you had? Ive always wanted a 2008 Forester Xt but they're unicorns up here. Glad to hear that you made it back into an STI!
@@Smeedia My wife got our first Subaru, which was a 2005 Forester XT. I got my 2015 Forester XT when I left my job at the dealership (where I had demo cars to drive). In fact, we've had nothing but Subarus since 2005, with the exception of the Evo IX MR I bought in 2006. That was a blast, and really hoping the STI gives me half the enjoyment I had with that car (so far, so good, although not nearly as fast as my modded Evo!).
@@saviordream Evos are hard to beat when it comes to the bang for the buck, I almost bought a Evo 9 a few years back, few issues with the one I was looking at and they're so hard to find stock. The STIs have always satisfied every box that I've needed to check when it comes to a car and the newer ones are a much more adult version I think. I do miss my 2007 STI that I use to have but at a certain point you've got to keep up with the new tech that's coming out. Subarus are where Ive been, My lady just got a 2017 Impreza sport the other day and for just being an Impreza they are crazy nice now that they are on Subarus global platform.
i mean ive been tracking my 03 forester since i was 13 (now 17) and its had zero problems because i just look after it and check everything important on it, also get new silicon hoses (all of them) ever 18 or so months just to keep that with peace of mind when im out thrashing it
Modifying the fuel system, so that the fuel rails are ran in parallel instead of in series would be a great addition to both level 2 and level 3 stages of reliability.
You should buy jdm sti spec-c and rebuild it from rhd to lhd, because usdm sti is not very good. On jdm there are already all goodies like oil cooling, bigger oil pump, different oil pan, no probs with 4th cylinder, stronger block, bigger intake with ported heads, bigger twinscroll ballbearing turbo, antisurge fuel pump, shorter ratio gearbox, stonger lightweight chassis etc. And go to the track all day long with no issues. No modification needed. :D
I would love to in the future I recently bought my house so cant jump on a second one quite yet! But I agree all the JDM cars come with the good stuff 😫 I'd love another 07 STI
You can mod it but drive responsibly. Every once a while driving spiritedly is cool but don’t do launches everyday or drive hard everyday. Major problem is most don’t listen to the car and push beyond limits. That is when we encounter blown motor or etc.
100% as long as its not abused when droving everyday it will be fine
Equal length headers is the only thing i can think to add, the subbie rumble is notoriously bad for the car and causes a lot of the cylinder heat irregularities
Hey man, I have a 2014 STI lifted, and love the videos . Great knowledge, and information given
Sounds like a fun car! And glad theyre helping 😁🙏
Really keen to hear your thoughts on benefits and cons of blow off valves and who really needs them
Should be in the next two weeks, wont all be opinion. Will be some facts in there as well. But I'm excited fo get that one out!
just found your channel man .MY16 Wrx owner here .Your build looks dope man !
Thank you! It has definitely become my money pit 😅 I use to have a 16 WRX a few cars ago. The FA was a fun engine
With more horse power shouldn’t you use a heavier oil so when it heats up it doesn’t turn as thin as water when you're pushing 400hp.
Ideally yes, it will also help with retaining the thicker viscosity if any contamination were to get in the oil
Do you have a link for the air oil separator? I have a 2019 wrx. Any help would be amazing! Great videos and I tell everyone about them. Keep up the good work. I want my car to last.
www.iagperformance.com/iag-performance-v3-street-series-air-oil-separator-aos-for-2015-20-subaru-impreza-wrx/
🙏
Perfect timing, was looking into getting Dom's cyl 4 cooling mod next, then the oil pickup, and baffles for the OEM oil pan. I dont really plan on tracking it, but like to hit the cloverleaf turn offs on the freeway pretty quick
Glad you can get some value out of the video! I'll be doing the install video on the Cyl. 4 cooling mod next week just got all the parts yesterday!
@@Smeedia I am ordering one next Friday as well. It would be cool if you could try and replicate the head surface temp test Dom did. Validation would go a long way.
Or somehow insert a temperature probe and take readings while driving using a Fluke meter.
I may do this myelf since I have the tooling. If people want to see it. I can make a video.
I've got the tools to do so, if I have enough time I'll try and incorporate it into the video. Bouncing between work, school and making videos gets a little tough at time 😅 I'll try and work it in though! Great idea!
@@Smeedia That would benefit the Subi community a lot. If you could do it. Thank you.
Blessings bro this series gave me motivation to finish up my evo 7. Wishing the best for you bruv👊🏾
Jealous of that evo! 🔥😍 appreciate the support and hoping the evo goes smoothly!
I just changed my plugs at 60k and they looked almost new. I regularly run fuel additives (snake oil if you will) and in my experience they do help. One thing I don't understand is diff/trans at 15k as my service manual just says inspect every 30k. One thing that might be different here is the difference between the FA and EJ motors? Not totally sure. But as an engineer I have to bring up the disappointment that is Subaru's ignorance of carbon buildup on the intake valves.
Agrees that subarus intervals are more spread out than mine. I just swapped the gear oil about 2 weeks ago and you can see how quick the oil on the trans and diff degraded over 20K miles. The carbon build up is another aspect that they could have rectified with the WRX
GDIs will always have carbon buildup, sad but true, the addition of a AOS is also helpful in preventing sledge. Seafoam and CRC make a Intake Cleaner that is helpful in slowing the carbon buildup, but one should inspect intake valves at some point to see if additional clean up is required to keep that GDI motor running efficiently and prevent any damage to the valve/head.
K-Swap, only way to make it run like it should've from the factory!!
One of the things on how to make it reliable is to use 20W-50 oil
I've had the mapformance stage 1 on my car , 93 octane for almost 38k miles. no problems ever. but I also just have a catback, group n mount and some other transmission upgrades. I called mikey botti or what ever his name is for a e tune, but never sent through with it cause I was going to buy an sti. never did and forgot about it, but like I said no problems. but I also don't beat on my car and I change my oil alot. one last thing the dealer I take my car to has never said anything about my reflash. I put it right back to stock the first 3 times for tob replacements and not a thing. it only shows it was a cel count or whatever. there is no tool that says this person just had an ap on this car . unless the last 3 dealers lied to me the last 4 years lol.
High mileage EJ22 NA owner, i was getting hesitation and poor performance from the old girl - catch can helped (blow by / oil fumes = oil + fuel = lower octane = pinging = timing retarded = hesitation, also oily carbon deposits), also did a knock sensor mod (rubber between knock sensor and block to limit what it detects, moved it back near the transmission) - helped, finally did a knock sensor delete (resistors to ground, no knock sensor) to kill the hesitation (no pinging unless i run crap fuel) - my valves / piston slap / worn engine seems to trigger the knock sensor/ hesitation. Even the old 4EAT auto box shifts smoother (i have heard the transmissions can misbehave because of the ECU, can confirm).
Don't do this until you have exhausted the usual suspects because usually hesitation is because of actual issues/faults causing the knocking and the ECU doing its job.
Hopefully this might help someone out there, the knock sensors seem far too sensitive.
Dude I love this channel already. Just subscribed! My engine blew up (Rod knock) on my 04WRX. BUT, I’m in stage 3 on your list for as a daily driver lol
Thanks for the support! Sorry to hear about your 04 WRX, got any plans for the next engine?
Smeedia sure thing! High quality content needs to be supported. I went stage 2 block with build internals. Pistons, rods ect. Killer B oil pan and pick up, 84mm FPblue turbo between some other stuff. I have a full list, is a lot of stuff. I should be getting the car back some time soon. But I won’t push it to hard since I still have the 04 5speed tranny.
@@Fastmosquito555 IAG block or someone else? Also E85 or pump? I have like no E85 anywhere near me so I'm forever stuck on pump gas 😥 whatsbyour game plan for that trans? 🤔
Smeedia Someone else, is a great shop located in MD. And I will stay on pump since the 04 wrx’s ecu hates E85. It hurts me since I have a E85 gas station 4 minutes away from my house, but I will play it safe. And I will do a STI swap after I recover from this financial mistake lol.
@@Fastmosquito555 sounds like it will be a lot of fun though! 😍
So long story short, I now own a Subaru 02 wrx impreza with a blown engine and no blow off valve, I don’t know where to start to fix it and what to expect after, what do you suggest?? I’m willing to put what I need to bring it back to life, it’s a true beauty
If I were you I would buy a EJ207 and swap that in. You can get drop in 207s for around $3000-$3500. Arugably the most reliable subaru engine ever built!
Great video man I have almost everything on your list already except an oil cooler and radiator. I’ve read people on forums saying that oil coolers are bed because they’ll make your oil too cold and it just sounds ridiculous. I was wondering if you could do a dedicated video to oil coolers when you do yours
Interesting, I'll have tonlppo into that a little more, I haven't seen that but I'll dig around into it a bit. Yes I will I'll get it in my que for videos to do one on oil coolers 😁
I could imagine that some oil cooler setups can be an issue depending on the situation.
For example, Mishimotos oil cooler setups come with a "Thermostatic" Sandwich adaptor that utilizes a small thermostat that allows the oil to get up to temp and circulates it similar to what you expect from your cooling system. Great for cold weather climates.
Some systems use a wide open cooler which would obviously be detrimental in cold climates as oil wouldn't get up to temp, but for strictly track cars could prove useful in certain climates.
Run synthetic oil and change it less often. It is much better oil and doesn't need to be changed as often.
but alot of good info in this vid. you just ordered a lol catch can cause of this. didn't have the funds to get the aos or at least the one i found online just now, with xmas and all for the kids. so hopefully the catch can will be better then nothing :)
The catch can will do great! Just remember to empty it when it starts to get full! 😁
My problem is. I have a stock 2015 Sti and I can’t do anything reliability wise to it cause it would void my warranty. Can’t even do my own oil changes. 80% of the time I shift at 2800-3000. When I do build boost it’s in 2nd gear above 3000 rpm. I let it idle down for awhile to cool the turbo. And I used Rotella T6 for oil change. But I have to take it somewhere now for that too even....
You are still the same bro 🙏🏼 blessed