Monoprice Maker Select v2 | What mods have I done?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 พ.ค. 2017
- Thomas Sanladerer:
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Maker's Muse:
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Angus's GCode Nozzle Wipe Video
• How to do a nozzle wip...
Maker Select x-ends:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:220...
Z-Braces:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:172...
Zip tie Anchors:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:180...
Control Box Extension:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:185...
Cable Chain:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:176...
Mosfet Mount Plate:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:217...
Spool Holder:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:224853
Thumbscrews:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:874155
Daedric Armor:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:231...
RepRap Champion Y-Carriage:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
Some things I didn't mention in the video that may be worth doing:
Belt Tensioner:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:178...
Z-Rod fixing:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:167...
z axis Bearing mount (alternative to the whole x-ends):
www.thingiverse.com/thing:237...
Y-axis extension:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:149...
z-axis extension:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:170...
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This is really a great video. Thanks for showing off your mods and explaining them in detail.
I just bought this printer and you've given me some great jumping off points!
Solid advice m8 I'm gonna have to get some of those toothed pulleys!
Nice video. I did all that type of tinkering and upgrading a few years ago when I built my Mendel. I'm glad I decided I buy a cr-10, and didn't have to keep tweaking. It's great to learn by doing upgrades, but sometimes you just need to print something and move on. Yet I still look at that as a fun project.
Thanks! the Maker Select was my first printer and I'm always changing things on it, so I'm kind of attached to it. I have a CR-10 now also and a few other printers, but the CR-10 is amazing for the price. I've been planning on making a few CR-10 related videos as well if I can ever find the time. and I should have a Tevo Tornado on the way sometime soon, so I'll probably be doing a comparison between the two after that shows up.
Really helpful video. I keep tinkering with my maker select even though I’ve got a cr-10 mini too. I feel like I’m tinkering with my first car! I learned a lot about 3D printing on that machine :)
Great video, thanks!
Lovely, very helpful thanks
mod for printing polycarbonate filament. That should get a huge amount of views.
Awesome!
Awesome video! I've just ordered the e3d titan aero and am dreading having to update the firmware, a video on that would be super helpful if possible :) cheers
Thanks man. I'll try to record a video on that sometime this week and hopefully have it up by next weekend. as long as your printer is one of the newer ones with the bootloader on the board already, it should be pretty easy. - I believe I heard the ones from this year should already have it. if not it can be a little bit more of a headache, but still doable
I bought my wanhao i3 v2 back in December of 2015 so I'm not sure if it already has the bootloader. Do you know of any easy way to check?
The only way I know of is to attempt flashing the firmware. if you get errors and it doesn't work, then there's no bootloader. If you have to add the bootloader, you'll need a spare arduino. I bought an Arduino Uno for this purpose before I realized it was unnecessary for my printer. But, here's the guide I followed when I updated mine in case you want to try it: www.instructables.com/id/Using-an-Arduino-to-Flash-the-Melzi-Board-Wanhao-I/
note: I failed to flash mine about 5 times before it actually worked and the standard firmware still worked. That's not a guarantee or anything, but just saying, if it fails to flash, that doesn't mean it's definitely going to ruin the existing firmware
Remain Indoors ok thanks, I'll keep it in mind
Can you post your video of your hotend e3dv6 mod you've done? Much appreciated.
How did you get your printer to be recognized? My computer and laptop (2012 model) both say they can't recognize the printer, and that I need a 2.0 usb
4 bearings vs 3 bearings is negligible, if anything it determines the rigidity of your Y carriage or the slop in your bearings/rods.
Your 3 point plane explanation should be applied towards the BED and not the Y carriage. You have the y carriage from RepRapChampion yet you still are using a 4 point bed plane. That introduces a complex wave curvature. Take your bed rotate it 90 degrees and use the 3 point mounts on the RepRapChampion Y carriage. Now you are on a 3 point plane.
Great video, so you printed the daedric armor on the Maker Select?
Thank you. And yes, I printed it on the Maker Select with a lot of supports
Hey I didn't see a link to the toothed idler pulley. Where did you buy it and is the bearing in the pulley better than the stock? My stock bearing is trashed after only 8 days of printing.
These are the ones I ordered: www.amazon.com/dp/B01H3DNKYY?psc=1 but the bearings kind of suck honestly. These ones look nicer in the pictures, but have no reviews: www.amazon.com/dp/B074NZCX1F?psc=1 I haven't tried them though. On a different printer, I used a piece of Teflon tube around an m3 screw to hold the same toothed idler pulleys in place, and those roll smoother than most bearings I've tried, but that wouldn't be a drop in replacement on this printer.
I found one for sale on reprapchampion which I might try. I have their zbrace and it is good quality but it seems like most of these pulleys use terrible Chinese bearings.
Great video I've had my Monoprice maker select V2 for about 4 years now and I have been noticing that the X and Y access has becoming more and more noisier I've upgraded the bearings and used dampers on the stepper Motors and I cannot seem to get this like vibration noise out of the printer it's more of like a humming noise on the x-axis it is no longer a silent printer what can this be I've tried everything
Thanks. One possibility is your Stepper motors might need replacing. You may want to start a print, then feel the X and Y axis motors to see if they're running particularly hot. Normally they should stay cool to lightly warm at most. Some people will tell you that they're fine to operate hotter than that, but from what I've heard, it can drastically lower the lifespan of your stepper motor if they're constantly running hot.
However, I did have an issue on my Prusa MK2 recently where the X axis was making a lot of noise, and it turned out the Idler bearing had gone bad. That's a pretty cheap thing to replace, and you can test that by turning off your printer and moving the x and y axis by hand to see how much noise they make. Also, it couldn't hurt to go over all of the screws on your printer with a wrench to make sure none have come loose. It's a good idea to do that every couple of months really as part of standard maintenance (depending how often you use your printer)
Anyway, I hope that helps. Best of Luck
Hey do you have a copy of Marlin 2.0 for the monoprice maker select v2? I'm looking to upgrade to the MKS Gen v1.4 board soon and I'd love to tinker with your version of Marlin for this printer. I have two of these printers I'm currently over hauling. :)
What's the difference between the Maker Select V2 and Plus V2? Will your auto bed leveling video work on the Plus?
I'm not sure about the Plus V2, but the Monoprice Maker Select Plus has a touchscreen and all of the electronics are built into the main body of the printer, whereas the Maker Select V2 has an external control box with just a rotary knob. The firmware would be different, so you would have to find the firmware for that printer and make modifications to it. Also, I've never owned one, so I can't give any details on other possible differences. But in general, most lower cost printers can be modified to have auto bed leveling, it just might require a little more work and digging around online to figure out how.
Sorry this is off topic but I just picked up a Maker Select Plus 3D printer and the first thing I noticed was that the display was mounted to the vertical front panel of the case. Do you know of an update to print a angled wedge on the front of the case to make the display at a more usable angle?
Thanks.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:921882
There's one. You can search on thingiverse for Wanhao i3 LCD to see if you can find any you like better.
Where did you get the model of the daedric armor? Is that something you put together, or is it available somewhere?
Oops I thought I had added that to the description. it's in the description now. and here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2314205
Awesome, thanks! Going to have a busy weekend knocking out some of these mods for my Select v2, but I really wanted the armor for a desk weight, haha.
LOL A mod to prevent a fire causes a potential fire.
how about the addition of a magnetic flexible bedplate like the prusia? possible?
looks like MatterHackers sells an 8" x 8" BuildTak flexplate system here: www.matterhackers.com/store/l/buildtak-flexplate-system-8-x-8/sk/MLY6X93M and here's somebody's video installing a bigger one on the Tevo Tornado: th-cam.com/video/2rCYYkkZtRo/w-d-xo.html
What mosfet board did you use?
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WV7FBCV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 this is the one I have installed in my Maker Select
can you make a video on the process of install a glass bed? I am a total noob on 3d printing!
Maybe I could include that in a video about simple upgrades at some point in the future, but it shouldn't be too hard to work out. You can order a piece of glass from somewhere like Amazon - just search for maker select bed glass, then get some binder clips to hold it in place. After that, adjust your Z end stop to stop your nozzle before it hits the glass, relevel your bed, and you should be done
Just clip it directly on top of the current bed?
yep. you don't need to take off the black build surface. you can place it directly on top of the bed and add binder clips around the edges to hold it down. just make sure the clips don't get in the way of your hot end when you're printing something. - there are other options as well, like using thermal pads. If the clips get in the way too much you can get some 2mm or 3mm thermal pads and put squares under each corner of the glass, then you don't need the binder clips because the thermal pads will hold the bed in place, but if you use thermal pads, you'll have to print with the bed about 10 degrees hotter because the glass won't get as hot as it would clipped directly to the bed.
What size glass bed did you get and where did you get it? Most places that sell glass beds for these printers are pretty small.
whats up with the cooling fans how did you do that
A bit confused. Being able to print other materials such as PETG, a hotend is necessary. Not sure if any effort putting into this mod would be unnecessary or pointless. Also not sure I agree with your need to calibrate the temperature. The temp sensor is already calibrated. The only problem i see is that Maker v2 only goes to 260 degrees. Have you used a heat tempearture gun and saw differnt temperature between the original nozzle and the e3dv6? Thanks.
The stock thermistor and e3d v6 thermistor are completely different parts, so there's no guarantee they'll match the same temperatures at all different resistances. I haven't taken the time to test and compare the resistances at different temperatures, but that might be a fun experiment and/or an interesting video. The maker select's stock firmware is limited to 260 degrees, but I wouldn't recommend printing at that temperature for any extended period of time without some modifications.
The temperature where "some" PTFE tubing begins to melt and let off semi-toxic fumes is around 220 degrees C. However, some other PTFE tubing is more tolerant of higher temperatures like Capricorn Bowden tubes, but the design of the stock hotend is such that the PTFE tube actually sits in the top of the nozzle, so whatever temp you're printing at, the PTFE tube will be at that temperature. The e3d v6, on the other hand, is designed to have a metal heat break between the heatsink and the heatblock, the PTFE tube inside only extends as far down as inside the heatsink where there is constant air blowing across keeping it from reaching extreme temperatures.
But with that said, I am currently in the process of putting the original hotend back on my Maker Select so I can film a video about setting up Auto Bed Leveling on the stock board, and I plan on replacing the PTFE tube in the top of the nozzle with a piece of capricorn tubing in hopes that it will allow higher temperatures without gumming up or throwing off poisonous fumes, so I'll be sure to mention that in my video.
Where did you buy the y carriage?
The one I bought sucked because I had to drill new holes to fit the printer. But this one should fit without any drilling: www.amazon.com/RepRap-Champion-Carriage-Duplicator-Monoprice/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501437417&sr=8-1
+1 for the one he gives a link for, I ordered that one and it was perfect out of the box, and has the extra holes for doing a 3 bearing solution which you SHOULD do, as he covers in this video.
where can I get the z-axis stabilizer bars?
www.thingiverse.com/thing:1728621 Here are the printable parts for it and I just used threaded rods with matching nuts from Home Depot
got it. thanks
Oh I totally disagree with that thing you said about that part thing yeah
lol you and everybody else who's watched this video
What build surface do you use?