My printed parts no matter round or square are not equal on the X and Y axis. I notice that the Y axis belt is much looser than the X axis belt. How is the Y axis belt adjusted? Thanks
On a stock Maker Select Plus, there are Metal spring/clips on the belts that tension the belts (both X and Y). If those are not there, your tension will be loose. An upgrade is to print belt tensioners. I have printed belt tensioners for both my X and Y that have been very reliable. Also, a loose belt will cause skipping and layer shifting, but probably won't cause consistent difference in dimensions. Skipping belt would make a mess, basically. If your prints are consistently inaccurate, your steppers could be out of calibration. If you print a calibration cube, what dimensions do you end up with? My favorite calibration cube: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3107380
No, it is either tensioned by a small spring, or you need a separate tensioner (usually 3D printed). The stock setup is totally passive. To add adjustability, you need extra stuff
That depends on the firmware you are running. Stock firmware, you'll have to look for a how-to video (mine is not stock). I'm running ADVi3+ (older version). With this firmware, you adjust the calibration with the touchscreen. Basically, there's a setting/app for that with ADVi3+
Ive been having y axis layer shifts for a bit with my Maker select plus. When it happens (usually pretty far into a print) it sounds like the stepper is skipping. Ive tried tightening the belts, checking for anything getting caught or hitting and this doesn't seem to be the issue. The bed slides pretty smoothly so I don't think its the bearings but can't be sure what exactly is causing the issue. Any suggestions?
It could still be that the bearings are binding up with the weight of the print. It could also be solved by reducing your acceleration and jerk. Do you regularly clean/lubricate your Y-axis bearing rods? I When your print gets big, your motor might not be able to throw the extra weight around as quickly as your code is telling it to. Are you using a heavy print-surface (like glass)? This adds to the inertia of the bed and can require even more drastic reduction in jerk/acceleration. That's all I can think of off the top of my head. I use this liquid bearings precision oiler on all of my bearing rods (add a little every 4 or 5 prints, or whenever I think about it). www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DIFAOAU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@Grimm3D I am using glass and I think I will replace them to be safe as it doesn't have a bit of noise as well. I have been using sewing machine oil as the manual says but I don't notice any difference after applying it so I may try the oiler. Thanks!
@@hunterbakos9946 definitely try adjusting your jerk/acceleration settings. I had to do this on my D9 to keep the bed motor from skipping/shifting terribly. Thanks for watching!
Also, you might want to look into ditching the glass. I actually have an official borosilicate glass bed that I have never used because I enjoy the flexible magnetic plate so much. Flexible plate + hairspray has been wonderful for me. th-cam.com/video/8YkG0fCjjIA/w-d-xo.html
Nice video! Had a question though. At about 4:55 you stated that you went from smaller bearings to the larger bearings. Has this caused any new problems even after the switch back to having four bed bearings or has it pretty much been smooth sailing? Also I don't know why but your amazon link list these bearings as "LM8UU extra long". They are actually LM8LUU bearings and you can buy a four pack of LM8LUU bushings for about the same price. I only bring this up because you may like the bushings more for your application.
After using the longer bearings, I will never go back. They seem to last a lot longer. My bed has the plastic, slotted bearing blocks, so the larger ones just push in and have stayed totally solid without the clips. Of course, the linear bearings are almost a consumable when your printer runs almost constantly. I keep mine pretty well lubed and still keep some extra bearings on hand if things get loose. I'm going to be replacing the X-Axis bearings and lower block soon (the lower one has some play in it). I'll do a video on that too. In my research, the LM8LUU bearings have many name variants, depending on the company. Definitely go by dimensions when ordering. I tried bushings, they seemed loose to me. Could have been my fault, but I just decided to stick with what has worked for now. Thanks for the questions, and thanks for watching!
@@Grimm3D Wow! Talk about a speedy reply! I ordered some LM8LUU bushings from VXB.com. Not cheap by any means and I wouldn't recommend you spend the price I did, but with the wait time on bushings I wanted from amazon, I decided to pay the premium and see what happens. I will let you know my results when I get them on my printer.
Have you watched the D9/500 videos on my channel? Linear rails are pretty pricey too. Any decent hobby is pricey. The new bearings I have for the Maker Select Plus are actually from Mitsumi. I read that their bearings are hard enough steel that they will chew up the OEM rods, so I bought matching hardness steel rods for the MSP as well. I'm hoping this makes a huge difference, maybe not in print quality, but hopefully in longevity.
I basically just found one that I could easily cut down to match my printer. It has been on there for a few months, works really well. Easy to flex, remove the print, and back in business
@@SugarWitchCookieCompany I just purchased this one to replace the original flexible plate I've had on the Maker Select Plus for almost 2 years. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HNWSMXY I use the original, extra PEI sheet that came with the Maker Select as a template and cut these down to size with an Exacto. It works great and thanks for watching!
I have this exact printer and I have severe ringing in the y-axis and I've spent countless hours trying to fix the problem. The stock bearings on mine seem to be fine but do you still think this could be an issue causing this problem? It's driving me crazy and I really don't know what else to do. I notice that when the y-axis goes back and forth when it moves slower I notice what seems to be a slight shuttering and I have been suspecting the bearings were bad.
I forgot to mention, I've experimented with acceleration and jerk settings, printing slower speeds, but even at 15 mm/s I still am getting ringing in the y-axis. Only thing I haven't done is take the printer apart and check the y-axis belt tension, but when I give a tug on it the tension seems to be just fine.
On mine, I have had to replace the bed bearings twice. Both times i noticed strange noises when the bed moved back and forth. Take a look in this video where I show the movement in the bearings. (about 1:30). See if you can get a good look at yours and see if it moves. It won't be much, but you should be able to see it. Also, do you oil your bearings/rods at all? I use a light gun oil, but other light oils will work (like for a sewing machine). I oil the rods with a few drops front and back every 3 or 4 prints (or whenever I remember. If a little oil can stop the noise, you might be OK, but if the noise is still there, get new bearings. You can get them off Amazon for pretty cheap. I bough extras, so I would have some on hand if they went out again (which they did). Welcome to my channel, thanks for the Sub
Grimm3D Grimm3D I thought I would let you know that I took the bed off and found that one of the bearings had a little play in it just like yours did. Mine was on the back left side so I didn’t see it the first time I checked. I’ve ordered the same bearings you did and once I get them changed I’ll let you know how it turns out. As far as oiling the rods I haven’t yet because I wasn’t sure if I should and if I needed to. But once I get these changed I definitely will. Thanks so much for your reply!
@@ryanjacob8568 Glad that my video could help - That's why I posted it. Let me know if you'd like to see any other videos about the Maker Select. Happy printing
@@Grimm3D So I finally got a chance to get the bearings changed this weekend. I noticed smoother movement and somewhat quieter than the previous bearings. The only problem is that it still hasn't completely solved the ringing problem I've been having. I took the bottom off a couple of weeks ago and it seemed that the belt was tight and there were no issues with the motors or pulleys. If I take a pair of needle nosed plyers and apply a minimal amount of force to the top part of the bed without affecting the movement of the y-axis I notice that it goes away, but as soon as I let go it starts back. The new bearings are good and tight on the rods so now I've ruled that out. Is this just a problem with this brand of 3D Printer? Have you noticed this issue with yours?
Extremely useful video for me...thank you
I'm glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching.
My printed parts no matter round or square are not equal on the X and Y axis.
I notice that the Y axis belt is much looser than the X axis belt.
How is the Y axis belt adjusted?
Thanks
On a stock Maker Select Plus, there are Metal spring/clips on the belts that tension the belts (both X and Y). If those are not there, your tension will be loose. An upgrade is to print belt tensioners. I have printed belt tensioners for both my X and Y that have been very reliable.
Also, a loose belt will cause skipping and layer shifting, but probably won't cause consistent difference in dimensions. Skipping belt would make a mess, basically. If your prints are consistently inaccurate, your steppers could be out of calibration. If you print a calibration cube, what dimensions do you end up with?
My favorite calibration cube: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3107380
@@Grimm3D thanks, is the Y axis belt adjusted by removing the bottom plate? Or how?
@@Grimm3D I was thinking that the steppers are out of calibration, I know how to do that on my CNC, but how is it done on the 3D printer?
No, it is either tensioned by a small spring, or you need a separate tensioner (usually 3D printed). The stock setup is totally passive. To add adjustability, you need extra stuff
That depends on the firmware you are running. Stock firmware, you'll have to look for a how-to video (mine is not stock). I'm running ADVi3+ (older version). With this firmware, you adjust the calibration with the touchscreen. Basically, there's a setting/app for that with ADVi3+
Ive been having y axis layer shifts for a bit with my Maker select plus. When it happens (usually pretty far into a print) it sounds like the stepper is skipping. Ive tried tightening the belts, checking for anything getting caught or hitting and this doesn't seem to be the issue. The bed slides pretty smoothly so I don't think its the bearings but can't be sure what exactly is causing the issue. Any suggestions?
It could still be that the bearings are binding up with the weight of the print. It could also be solved by reducing your acceleration and jerk. Do you regularly clean/lubricate your Y-axis bearing rods? I When your print gets big, your motor might not be able to throw the extra weight around as quickly as your code is telling it to.
Are you using a heavy print-surface (like glass)? This adds to the inertia of the bed and can require even more drastic reduction in jerk/acceleration.
That's all I can think of off the top of my head. I use this liquid bearings precision oiler on all of my bearing rods (add a little every 4 or 5 prints, or whenever I think about it). www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DIFAOAU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@Grimm3D I am using glass and I think I will replace them to be safe as it doesn't have a bit of noise as well. I have been using sewing machine oil as the manual says but I don't notice any difference after applying it so I may try the oiler. Thanks!
@@hunterbakos9946 definitely try adjusting your jerk/acceleration settings. I had to do this on my D9 to keep the bed motor from skipping/shifting terribly. Thanks for watching!
Also, you might want to look into ditching the glass. I actually have an official borosilicate glass bed that I have never used because I enjoy the flexible magnetic plate so much. Flexible plate + hairspray has been wonderful for me.
th-cam.com/video/8YkG0fCjjIA/w-d-xo.html
Nice video! Had a question though. At about 4:55 you stated that you went from smaller bearings to the larger bearings. Has this caused any new problems even after the switch back to having four bed bearings or has it pretty much been smooth sailing? Also I don't know why but your amazon link list these bearings as "LM8UU extra long". They are actually LM8LUU bearings and you can buy a four pack of LM8LUU bushings for about the same price. I only bring this up because you may like the bushings more for your application.
After using the longer bearings, I will never go back. They seem to last a lot longer. My bed has the plastic, slotted bearing blocks, so the larger ones just push in and have stayed totally solid without the clips. Of course, the linear bearings are almost a consumable when your printer runs almost constantly. I keep mine pretty well lubed and still keep some extra bearings on hand if things get loose. I'm going to be replacing the X-Axis bearings and lower block soon (the lower one has some play in it). I'll do a video on that too.
In my research, the LM8LUU bearings have many name variants, depending on the company. Definitely go by dimensions when ordering.
I tried bushings, they seemed loose to me. Could have been my fault, but I just decided to stick with what has worked for now.
Thanks for the questions, and thanks for watching!
@@Grimm3D Wow! Talk about a speedy reply! I ordered some LM8LUU bushings from VXB.com. Not cheap by any means and I wouldn't recommend you spend the price I did, but with the wait time on bushings I wanted from amazon, I decided to pay the premium and see what happens. I will let you know my results when I get them on my printer.
Have you watched the D9/500 videos on my channel? Linear rails are pretty pricey too. Any decent hobby is pricey. The new bearings I have for the Maker Select Plus are actually from Mitsumi. I read that their bearings are hard enough steel that they will chew up the OEM rods, so I bought matching hardness steel rods for the MSP as well. I'm hoping this makes a huge difference, maybe not in print quality, but hopefully in longevity.
Speaking of your flexible magnetic bed, how do you like it? I was thinking of getting one myself.
I basically just found one that I could easily cut down to match my printer. It has been on there for a few months, works really well. Easy to flex, remove the print, and back in business
@@Grimm3D Do you have a link for one that works with the maker select plus/power spec Wanhao?
@@SugarWitchCookieCompany I just purchased this one to replace the original flexible plate I've had on the Maker Select Plus for almost 2 years.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HNWSMXY
I use the original, extra PEI sheet that came with the Maker Select as a template and cut these down to size with an Exacto. It works great and thanks for watching!
I have this exact printer and I have severe ringing in the y-axis and I've spent countless hours trying to fix the problem. The stock bearings on mine seem to be fine but do you still think this could be an issue causing this problem? It's driving me crazy and I really don't know what else to do. I notice that when the y-axis goes back and forth when it moves slower I notice what seems to be a slight shuttering and I have been suspecting the bearings were bad.
I forgot to mention, I've experimented with acceleration and jerk settings, printing slower speeds, but even at 15 mm/s I still am getting ringing in the y-axis. Only thing I haven't done is take the printer apart and check the y-axis belt tension, but when I give a tug on it the tension seems to be just fine.
On mine, I have had to replace the bed bearings twice. Both times i noticed strange noises when the bed moved back and forth. Take a look in this video where I show the movement in the bearings. (about 1:30). See if you can get a good look at yours and see if it moves. It won't be much, but you should be able to see it.
Also, do you oil your bearings/rods at all? I use a light gun oil, but other light oils will work (like for a sewing machine). I oil the rods with a few drops front and back every 3 or 4 prints (or whenever I remember. If a little oil can stop the noise, you might be OK, but if the noise is still there, get new bearings. You can get them off Amazon for pretty cheap. I bough extras, so I would have some on hand if they went out again (which they did).
Welcome to my channel, thanks for the Sub
Grimm3D Grimm3D I thought I would let you know that I took the bed off and found that one of the bearings had a little play in it just like yours did. Mine was on the back left side so I didn’t see it the first time I checked. I’ve ordered the same bearings you did and once I get them changed I’ll let you know how it turns out.
As far as oiling the rods I haven’t yet because I wasn’t sure if I should and if I needed to. But once I get these changed I definitely will. Thanks so much for your reply!
@@ryanjacob8568 Glad that my video could help - That's why I posted it. Let me know if you'd like to see any other videos about the Maker Select. Happy printing
@@Grimm3D So I finally got a chance to get the bearings changed this weekend. I noticed smoother movement and somewhat quieter than the previous bearings. The only problem is that it still hasn't completely solved the ringing problem I've been having. I took the bottom off a couple of weeks ago and it seemed that the belt was tight and there were no issues with the motors or pulleys. If I take a pair of needle nosed plyers and apply a minimal amount of force to the top part of the bed without affecting the movement of the y-axis I notice that it goes away, but as soon as I let go it starts back. The new bearings are good and tight on the rods so now I've ruled that out. Is this just a problem with this brand of 3D Printer? Have you noticed this issue with yours?
It was interesting that the 3 bearing set up didn't quite work.
Ya, I really expected it to work. That is how the Prusa is set up.