Modding the Monoprice Select Mini (Part 1)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 มิ.ย. 2024
- My Monoprice Select Mini has been a huge workhorse for me for about 10 months but like all my printers it's time for some upgrades! Lets go over the upgrades I am going to do and why I am doing them!
Thing Files:
Spool Holder: www.thingiverse.com/thing:200...
Spool Holder Extension: www.thingiverse.com/thing:219...
MPSM Extruder Arm: www.thingiverse.com/thing:203...
MPSM Extruder Baseplate: www.thingiverse.com/thing:202...
X-Axis Idler Pulley Alignment clip: www.thingiverse.com/thing:204...
X Gantry Support: www.thingiverse.com/thing:186... (Not my version but this is the one I modified)
MPSM Dial: www.thingiverse.com/thing:167...
MPSM Knob: www.thingiverse.com/thing:202...
MPSM GoPro Mount: www.thingiverse.com/thing:197...
Supplies:
3mm bore 16 tooth idler: amzn.to/2FvkH0K
LM6LUU Bearings: amzn.to/2mvvqzo
6mm x 300mm Smooth Rod: goo.gl/uu3KDS
Magic Numbers Plaque: www.thingiverse.com/thing:194...
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Thanks for watching! - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
I’m the guy that designed the new extruder! :)
Great video!
Awesome! Subscribed 😁
I'm glad to see another yellow Monoprice Select Mini. I did a bunch of modwork on mine using clear yellow PETG from 3D Solutech. I still need to replace my hotend & add the 6mm rod
Thank you, I have been wanting to add the spool holder.
I just got one of these. Printed great out the box. I am going to print some mod parts and extruder feed housings for spares. And the wire link cable thing for the heater wires, so far though its been really uneventful and easy to use. I had a kit build printer before this and could not get it to print anything but blobs and rat nests lol. Good wee printer for the cost.
I will certainly be making some of these mods!
Awesome video. Really indepth. Keep up the good work!
I know this is an old video about this printer, but I just got one and I am very impressed with its performance. You mentioned reversing the LCD and Cntrl Knob in this video, but I have not seen anything regarding this. Just to let you know I just finished doing this change and it makes a big difference in the profile look of the printer. The LCD/Cntrl Knob backplate has to have the solid area cut out so the two wires that are connected will align properly. I just used a 5/32-inch drill bit to drill out holes and cut the slot profile out to mimic the slot above it and then file the rough areas down. You may have the cut down the four mounts on the backplate that the Ctrl Knob switch mounts to. As of right now, mine is working and I love how it looks. Thank you for the suggestion.
I have a PrimaCreate P120 which is a V2 clone, so will be getting the majority of these mods fitted. Thanks for making the video.
someone cloned a $200 printer? 😂
Thank you! I just picked this up as my second printer, because I like the protability of this unit. My other printer is not as protable, as you can imagine. Great Job!
I think you mean portability and portable. And yes. I agree.
@@no_one2691no he meant protable. do you not know what protable means? go read a book man 😒
@@jessihawkins9116nope. I really don't know what protable means. Neither does my translater app
Thanks Shane, very interesting. Glad it mostly worked out. Cheers, JAYTEE
I've seen a video where the end of the rods need to be hit with a piece of wood to come off. There is glue.
Also, I did that arm and baseplate mod (by Robin Reiter) and found the hole for the nut was too wide and not a snug fit for the nut, so I modified it in tinkercad to fit the thinner nut. My version also needed a small piece of PTFE tube cut and fit into the base plate to help stop flexible filament buckling out, even more than the protruding point of the baseplate.
And I was shouting at the screen "it's the wrong way around!" Too funny. ;)
Great video. Thanks for listing all the STL files.. Please only make one mode at a time so I can test it out on my printer
Best way to hold the motor is to reach in on the right side where the printer head axis is. ( you can push the motor up with one finger)
i have those logitech speakers behind ya.. 10 years now I think and they still kickin.
Great video
I use the big Larry magnetic led light bar and just stick it to the top facing down and works like a charm
Can you send me the link for that?
Fugatech 3D Printing www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B012DH2KG4/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511467013&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=big+larry+nebo&dpPl=1&dpID=31TqK6fIRgL&ref=plSrch
I'll take a picture of it when I get home. When you put it on top it doesn't interfere with the z axis
Is there a extruder housing that swings open, I get tired of squeezing the lever all the time changing filament.
What Bowden piece did you use on the extruder piece? I can't find one where the tubing goes through the piece and still works with the updated filament clamp. Thanks for the video!
Very good Shane. The test print looks great. Do you happen to have one from before the mods - for comparison?
I didn't because it can be seen in lots of my other videos.
Ahhh - cool
Looks great. I did a few of those on my mini. What filiment did you use? I would be very interested in the knob switch or flip. It is a big pain and that would be a great mod to do.
Thanks for the video
Inland Yellow PLA
would you recommend this printer? ive been looking for one but price wise i dont want to spend too much (for now at least) i have it sitting in my amazon kart just waiting to get it, just looking for more opinions just in case
Hmm... Did you film the bearing replacement? I missed that and can't find it. You mention it in the outro, but I don't think you filmed it?
Do you have any videos on how to tighten the pulleys? I have this printer and recently started getting some layer shifting and I'm finding it hard to mess with it'd hardware
For the replacement extruder part that was 3d printed, wouldn't it have been more logical to make it only need the two bolts on the left and the back on the right to be through the part and the final front right bolt have a recessed hole in the 3d printed part for the bolt head to sit inside. That way the extruder motor never has to be completely released from where it is already mounted? All 4 bolts seems a bit excessive just to hold the new extruder and motor in place.
just did the extruder arm mod and baseplate i dont like how the bearing holds in though seems loose
Interesting video. Thanks. How ever, It looks like the horizontal support device is counter productive. The bearings, no matter how good, will offer some drag so it could do more harm that good. But there is a lot of variables going on so it may still work. The variables are vibration reduction, which this may help. Also, as mentioned, saging may possibly be reduced. It is not clear that is true but possible. Mainly, I feel the drag will be worse than the reduction of vibration. Just some back of the napkin thought experiments. Let us know how it turns out.
I've not noticed any negatives from doing it but also no positives. Maybe for prints that cover the entire surface but IDK.
Great video- would love your STL files...
I'll get them added. I totally forgot about them.
Can you add the files for the light I would love to do it to my printer. Thanks
Like**
Hi, I have these two questions, if you can help answer, I appreciate:
1- I create pictures on autocad to turn it into format compatible for Cura Slices, but they are flat, how can the 3d printer make it into an object with 3D dimensions? I mean how I can do? the thickness needs to be specified?
2- Does this print have a range of max and min sizes of objects it can bring? well, i would like if there is a details manual about all these, but the manual when I bought the machine does not say or I miss somewhere?
I know this is probably a dead project, but, I'd like to see part 3 of this project. I have an MPMS v2 that I still use on the daily. Thanks
Ya sorry. This printer is long gone.
@@Fugatech3DPrintingwhat did you do with it?🤔
Can we see the hot end upgrade as well?
Any chance of you remixing the x gantry mod for an 8mm rod and bearing please!
QUICK question: My MonoPrice mini just started powering off in the middle of my prints - I haven't had it very long. I am getting ready to re-routing the heated bed wiring. Do you think the hotbed wire re-route would stop the symptom my machine has?
Is your PSU getting hot? I've seen some other electronics have issues with the external power supply overheating but not with this one. Have you checked with the MPSM FB group? There are a few thousand people in there and someone may have an idea.
i printed the extension for some reason it didn't fit even the pin didn't fit :(
I've tried the GoPro mount on my MPv2 and it's horrible - because the fast and sudden motion of the bed makes my camera wiggle. Maybe I'm the only one with issues here. Going to build an own holder for the cam now...
When using it in timelapse mode you can't see any shutters.
Great work
For the lcd, does it run stock marlin, if so you might want to look and see if you can replace the lcd with one of the 0.9"/1.3" i2c lcd screens and then just move the knob up into the resulting extra space.
As far as I know it does not but I'm not 100% sure.
It does not. The UI is a custom firmware.
Sad thing is you can't use the bed rewire with the Z stabilizer...
Did you make a vid on the hotend...I bought mine sometime ago bu have not done it. A little intimidated and do not want jack up my mini.
Not yet. I tried to but couldn't get the new mount on the printer. I have since then tried out 3 different ones and now have a E3D v6 clone on the printer and it works really well. I'll be doing a video on this in the near future.
im either going to get the select mini v.2 or the select mini pro, i dont know which one to get, and i have a couple more question. does this support 1kg of filment? (the voxel only has .5 kg) also, on the reviews, it says that there isnt a heated bead, could you also confirm if there is or isnt? and is the only option to make the prints stick to the bed to use tape or a new bed? (and is it important to have a heated bed/do these steps to have the print stick) last thing, can i use the oldest version of cura (1506.06.) or do i need the latest version?
Both the stock spool and the one I used support 1KG spools. The MPSM v1 and v2 both have a heated bed. I put a piece of BuildTak on my V1 but the V2 comes with it I believe. They do not require a heated bed but I've always had more success in using a heated bed. Just use the latest version of Cura.
@@Fugatech3DPrinting ok, thanks!
I mod Ed , upgrade,my mono111
Pullys under x. And extruder double geard boden type. But can't figure the right e steps? Do you know.? I like the little printer
It's been good.any thing will help rick
do you have the link for the allen wrench holder
Any ideas when the Z axis won't move up anymore? Home button doesn't work, it's just constantly hanging down and scraping the printbed.
Sorry I'm not sure. There is a HUGE FB group for this printer and someone might be able to help there.
I can't print this ob my Mini V1. No matter how I adjust the spool holders, Cura won't slice it.
+Fugatech 3D Printing would u recommend the Monoprice Select Mini V2 for a beginner?
Yep. It is definitely a solid printer to start with. Easy to use and a huge community to reach out to for tips/tricks.
No. Get an ultimaker. the Select Mini is a major faff
Does the x axis support part fix z wobble because I have z wobble and there nothing I’ve Been able to to pls respond
It might help some
What brand and color is the filament you used?
where is the carriage attachment stl link???
i know you want to stabilize but do you really want to add extra weight by putting on the rod. Now the motor is going to be doing more work.
I have the monoprice mp select mini 3d printer v1
Too bad you did not show how you changed the idley puller thing. I think it is the part that makes the most noise on my printer, but there is no video about how to change it. A link to where we could find one like you with new bearings would be cool too!
It was really simple which is why I didn't. If I show every little thing the videos would be an hour long. I'll add links for the idlers I ordered but the 3D printed part is already listed.
Is there a video where you upgrade the hot end?
th-cam.com/video/JbZJKZmUA64/w-d-xo.html
Links to the models? Why are there extenders on the spool holder?
I've added them all to the video description. You need the extenders because the stock spool doesn't fit standard spools. Only the short fat ones.
Ahhhh... knob, if only it could mean the same thing in American as it does in Britain :D
Hahaha! What would you call it then?
Oh we call a knob a knob, but we also call "man parts" a knob :D
In America, if we say a woman has nice knobs; we're referring to her breasts; specifically, the nipples.
Although, I've also heard men's parts called knobs here, too. In fact, the first oral experience I ever had; she called it a 'knob job'.
did you shrink the spool holders in cura? I can't get them to fit the bed size no matter how i turn them
I didn't print it on the MPSM so I am not sure.
Is brim enabled? I don't remember if I used "none" or "raft," but I got it printed on my mini v2 when I rotated it to print diagonal on my bed.
Is Part 2 in the works?
what are you talking about? I always fix my CR-10 with a hammer! :)
Funny thing is, there are several products that go by the line of CR and they are all the kind of thing you would wantto fix with a hammer
can you do all these prints on the same printer (monoprice select mini)
I think so. The only ones that might be challenging would be the spool holder arms.
Can you please update your links. I need the supplies
Part 2 in the works?
Eventually. Been busy with 20 other projects lol.
can't wait for part 2
Check your printer before you print the spool holder. I didn't and my spool attachment thing is different. Wasted some plastic.
Mine came out just fine.
? I assume it did! My printer has a different connector and that part doesn't fit on it. Just an FYI for others with this printer.
Would love to use these parts in my printer. Where are the files located?
all the links are in the video description above. You'll have to expand the description by clicking "SHOW MORE".
Is this compatible with the v2? It'd be cool to see how this translates with the v2 model!
They should but I don't know because I don't have the V2
For those replacing the extruder on the V2 model-the baseplate is easily replaceable, but double check the arm is visually simular before trying to remove it. Mine appears to be an entirely different (newer?) design without the long screw holding the bearing/wheel in place, it seems to be replaced with a shorter screw and and a raised screwhole that also holds the bearing (its what it spins around instead of the screw, it seems)
Edit: V2 users should use the WK9 feeder replacement[0], and make sure you note the addtional required parts so you don't keep forgetting when putting it together like me:
PC4-M6 Pneumatic Straight Fitting, for 4mm OD tubing. (x2 if you use WK9_Extruder_Arm_Bowden)
M6x1.0 Nut (x2 if you use WK9_Extruder_Arm_Bowden)
M4 Screw, 10mm long. (or #8 x 3/8" Imperial Machine Screw)
[0]: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2756509
Man can I just buy the printer lol. I'm looking at these things and there good but I'm just fearing buying a printer and not using it
should you print ur mods in abs or is pla ok
PLA is fine for anything that isn't near a heat source.
Is this the 120x120x120mm ?
Yes
What good is it going to do to add a vertical linear slide only supported on one side? Does just about as much good as a door supported by only one hinge. Clearly a mechanical engineer didn't come up with these mods.
Is this all printed with PLA?
Yes
Why you guys call the China copy E3D V6, it is not! E3D V6 Genuine don‘t have PTFE tube to the nozzle, E3D V6 can be used for more than 245C....
All my printers get E3D V6 Genuine... so did the MP SM V1... no issues with clocked nozzles ....
It is a cute little printer :-)
Keep the hotend fan all times on 100%, and stay to the retraction info from E3D wiki
Because the E3D V6 is open source so a copy of it is a copy/clone of the E3D V6. Could just call it a V6 I guess.
what, no capricorn tubing? come on now....
I still don't see the need for it.
the smaller i.d. keeps your extrusion accurate, it also is less friction so flexibles are easier or possible, and its high temp, so theres no worry about going over 240. its a far better product, and much more accurate printing over all.
Scheiß Englisch Plagen