ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 มิ.ย. 2016
- Patreon Page
/ nerys71
I use Esun PLA Pro orange for all my printed parts (affiliate links)
amzn.to/2vFlx4L
I also switched from PEI to Print in Z. sticks like PEI but you can beat the snot out of it and not hurt it. Use Code TODAY3D for 10% off I get nothing from this but LOVE the product. its on 100% of my printers now (8 of them)
www.printinz.com/
I use the "skin" (cheaper) and stick it to a Mirror Pane on my CR-10 and a Glass Plate on my Wanhao and Maker Selects
Mirror Pane CR-10 $8
amzn.to/2uHv0Ng
Glass Plate Maker Select $23
amzn.to/2uBGHUA
Manufacturered and very nice Z Brace kit ready to go
amzn.to/2wOmkFE
Thicker Replacement Y Carriage Plate $28
amzn.to/2JRN7Dv
OK links to the mods I have installed.
Z Brace Kit
www.thingiverse.com/thing:921948
Thumbwheels for Leveling
www.thingiverse.com/thing:874155
Tower Gantry Support Feet to go with Z Brace Kit
www.thingiverse.com/thing:1395703
The Blower I prefer
www.thingiverse.com/thing:1246425
Corner Shields
www.thingiverse.com/thing:1218943
The oiler/duster I prefer
www.thingiverse.com/thing:153807
Chain Riser I modified to make stronger
www.thingiverse.com/thing:1574274
Some things I made
Adapters in case you got 1/4" hardware instead of 5/16's for the z brace kit
www.thingiverse.com/thing:1574622
Spring Cups I made. none fit my maker select spring)
www.thingiverse.com/thing:1585045
Spool Riser and Filament Guide I made
www.thingiverse.com/thing:1598317
Alcohol Spray Bottle Holder Tray Holder I made
www.thingiverse.com/thing:1605320
Stuff I bought for the upgrades
Aluminum Plate upgrade I got
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Boro Glass Plate I got
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Self Stick PEI 3mil surface I got
catalog.cshyde.com/viewitems/3...
The Extruder I use (amazing) Flexion
flexionextruder.com/
The new stepper I needed (stock not strong enough for flexion)
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
You will need to swap the center two wires on your printers cable for this to work if the motor just jitters when you plug it in and try to use it.
Assorted m3 and m4 screws and nuts.
I also bought the hardware kit from ultimate 3d but I don't advise it as its for a different z brace kit and a wee bit expensive but it is "ready to go all in one" just print the parts.
I also bought the longer bearings but I am not impressed with their smoothness and maybe be looking for higher quality smoother bearings soon as my prints are coming out so fine now that I am seeing artifacts in the surface finish that is likely from the bearings and the tensioners and stuff.
I just got a Maker Select V2.1 for Christmas, I was unable to level my bed and messed around with it for hours until I saw your video. This is by far the best way to level the bed on this Printer, I had it leveled within several minutes as a posed to hours.
Thank you for the video!
This honestly is one of the best videos for people just getting this printer. I have watched and re-watched this. The trick with printing a circle object and tighten/loosening the bed while it is printing has saved me so much time. I really want you to do a rework with the updated y brace kit. I was really confused with the "suggested print list" I had all these parts I had no idea what some of those parts were for. Keep it up, just no BS solid advice from experience and practice.
Shane Walker in the coming months I will be making all of these same upgrades to my second wanhao duplicator i3 I will make a video of each stage as I print and install these parts and adjust the printer
This is the best tutorial for leveling a printer I've seen so far! Thank you Nerys! :)
Great resources! Placed an order for some of the parts, especially that Y-bed frame and the 3mil pei.
Awesome video. Thank you for putting the time and effort into providing this valuable information all in one place! I look forward to making most if not all of these upgrades.
Hi Nerys - thank you so much for your wonderful and useful "right-brain" tutorial! I recently purchased an AnyCubic Prusa i3 Mendel kitset, a la Shenzhen Anycubic Technology Co...a mixture of good and mind-bendingly inadequate Chinglish manual, penny-pinching implementation of some critical components etc.
I've been hopelessly stuck in the constantly changing levelling and calibration department, to the point where I've almost had a gutsfull. Your tutorial is a breath of fresh air. It cuts through much of the BS on the web and fills me with "new hope" :)
Thank you for the time, effort and thought you put into this tutorial.
John Sweden no problem I hope it works out these things are an insane amount of fun but can be infuriating when they don't work right :-)
Wow this is awesome. Thanks dude. Just got the maker select as my first printer, loving it so far.
Thank you so much Nerys. This video is very helpful and I plan on implementing many of these upgrades. You should post more videos about the Wanhao i3, like any upgrades you've made since posting or just general printing tips/tricks! I'd love to learn more.
I purchased printed installed and calibrated my Maker Select 3D printer with all of your recommendations and the results are absolutely stunning! I was shocked at the before/after difference. Thanks a whole lot sir!
no problem. I am glad it was of help. it really is an amazing printer for the price. just needs a wee bit of help :-)
Awesome video. I picked up a i3 plus clone and was having problems getting it leveled. Following the steps on this video got me up and running in minutes. So much better than the assisted bed leveling function that does a corner at a time.
Assisted bed leveling in corner at a time is actually very handy for getting close but only for getting close :-) same with the paper trick it's good for getting close after that you need to do a live level that's where it really starts to come together once you get level You've Won 90% of the battle
Thank you so much for this comprehensive list of thigs to upgrade. I am going to buy this printer real soon and this video will be extremely useful!
Hi there ,
Seriously , I hate the" wow" expression , but this time I was the one who said WOOOW about how you knew to explain fast and with simple words , how & why did you make all those changes .....
Everyone suggested to upgrade the printer to the ones Newer breakthroughs , without realising that as newbie you need guidance and just after using the printer enough to figure out what & why you need to change something to go further....
Thanks for the Guides. For more than 3 months I read & watch all the tutorials I could find on 3d printers ,and by far your explanations were pure gold!!!...
Congratulations and keep us up to date with everything you do ,
Regards
Marius
MARIUS Petcu you got it i got another i3 which i will be making all the same mods too i will make more detailed videos as i make and install each mod. also getting a cr10 soon which is really going to be some fun.
Nerys, you are awesome! thanks for this! Just installed the Flexion extruder kid and I'm blown away. so much better then the stock.''
Amazing job with these tips they will be very helpful for the Maker Select V2 I just got.
no problem. it is a very good solid printer. just replace that y plate and add those z braces. will turn it from an ok printer to an amazing printer.
Great video but I believe the purpose of the springs for the best is to allow for X, Y movement and to attempt to keep the bed level with the spring tension as the bed heats. As we know heat will cause the bed to expand and contract and even warp. If you get the springs to tight and don't allow enough movement via the X, Y plane then the bed will expand upward or downwards to compensate. I had a teacher, where I work as an IT Admin, do that mod and complained to me that his student's print jobs would not stick to the bed. I removed all those mods and went back to the basics and leveled the bed in a similar fashion as you did and no more problems. My RepRap i3 at home I added a lock nut to attach the bolt to the heated bed plate, leveled the bed and now I almost never have to level the bed no matter what I do. I tried many other things but this worked the best. Thanks for the video!
no. under no conditions in the universe is it ok to "allow" for X,Y movement. this is bad 100% of the time under all conditions. if x or y is permitted to move "at all" without being under the control of the steppers then you add "noise" to dimensional accuracy. you want is to be as absolutely rigid as possible. the ONLY reason we have springs at all is because we need to be able to "adjust" the offset of the bed plane to the x/y movement virtual plane. otherwise solid mounts would be superior and this is why good quality ABL systems do just that. use solid bed mounts. We only want springs to permit "Z" movement ie to allow us to adjust offset/tramming/leveling. NOT to permit X/Y movement.
mods. yep. happens all the time. mod, break, no idea why it broke or what broke it. always good to learn the machine as it is (except for fixing clear flaws or issues of course) so that you understand what its doing and why its doing it. this way when you mod you will know if it was the mod that caused an issue or something else.
Omg, I spent hours trying to level my bed, and with this video I did the whole thing in 15 minutes! Changing two sides at the same time was a game changer with a glass plate
yep. you betcha. stops the bed warping and makes the changes more consistent. once you master leveling it will blow you away not only how easy it is but how fast and simple it is. you just have to wrap your head around it. thats all.
You're the best, thank you so much for helping me make my printer work better. I'll be sure to let you know what happens when I'm done!
no problem. good luck. if you have any questions i will do my best to answer.
wow, GREAT video. Subscribed. Keep tips and tricks for noobs coming!
Hi All ,
First of all I want to say Thank You again to You & community for advice & support .
You have No idea Guys how Happy I am with my "Wanhao Duplicator i3 " Printer .
I got these on June 23rd/2017 and I all ready made couple pieces : "OK" with material supplied on the box , 2x "Marvin" (she made in red & he made in blue) LOL ; "bridging test" ; half of the "Star Wars Interceptor" ; and some parts shown here by "Nerys" , starting with thumbwheel & spring cups ; spool holder - and right now behind me machine is printing some supports for "Z" axes .
Oh I forgot to mention that The first major printing part was a Duct Fun .All are made in PLA .
After I made as best as I could the bed level I start printing with out Any changing on Cura software - I don't how to do it any way ! and the result was way beyond my expectations !!!
That was gave me the courage to go further .
this video has changed everything.
J Shepin i am glad it helped.
someone asked what lock nuts I used. for some reason I can not find their comment here. SO here is the answer.
I used nylon locks. the little acorn nuts with the nylon insert inside.
This was a great video! Thanks for the tips!
Pleaseeeeee make more videos. This was so great.
I want your settings!! The prints look so damn perfect!!!
Any of my current videos check the description i have my simplift3d fff peofiles fornmy printers as well as sample gcode to run.
Also on this particular printer my mods play a big part especially the thicker y carriage plate and z brace kit. The flexion also makes a big difference but the stoxk hot end can also do very well.
The big thing though is the y plate is nust too thin and the gantry flexes like a wet noodle. Stiffen both up and its like a new printer.
AfLinks in description
Damn you are awesome! Many many thanks! I am giving it a try now with your settings. One more question tho, which cooler do you prefer? I currently use the DiiiCooler.
I use the cobra head on the maker select.
Awesome video!
Jessica. for some reason your comment is not visible and I don't know why. as for the v2 plate I have no idea honestly. I am leary of the extra holes and if they don't line up the might interfere. I would stick with the original until someone verifies compatibility of the new one. Since I already have one I have no need to buy another. if I ever get a second i3v2 I might try it and see as I like the prime availability of it.
I am thinking of getting this one
www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Carriage-300x200mm-3D-Printer/dp/B01FWCTQCS
since I have the other parts to upgrade my printer to 320x200 already (I plan to do and post video of that upgrade later in august once I get back from Naram)
According to the seller at Amazon, the v2 still needs to be slightly modified for the Duplicator i3 like the original plate that you have. But the v2 can be setup to have 4 bearings instead of 3 if you want. Other than that if you're using 3 bearings like the Duplicator i3 then either will work.
Love the video. I've been referring to it over the last few weeks as I upgrade my wanhao duplicator i3. So far I've upgraded it with the flexion extruder, added new bearings on the y-axis and the implemented the z brace mod. I've also purchased some igus drylin plastic bearings and a high temperature micro Swiss hotend for the flexion extruder to test.
At the moment I'm looking at switching out the y carriage plate and baseplate as there very flimsy.
You mentioned that you changed the carriage plate on the y axis, did you also change the baseplate? It doesn't look stock since the corners are sharp n the bolt holes are very close to the edge. One main issue I have with switching the baseplate is that the heating bed unit is bonded firmly to the underside of the stock baseplate on the wanhao i3.
paulfox89 I am sorry I missed this reply I may have been using the wrong terminology there are two plates on your y bed the actual PCB heater that's the surface you put your glass on top of which I did not change then you have what I call the Y Carriage plate or the plate below that heater bed that the screws go through with the knobs on it that's the plate you need to replace it's too thin which means as you tighten it heat it cool it adjusted warps which causes the heat pad to work thicker y plate doesn't Warp therefore the heat pad does not work
I know this video is old but . . . I have one of these and have such a difficult time leveling. I even have the upgraded plate underneath and z braces. I did the x leveling with a bottle and used the plate UNDER the build plate instead. Just for a little extra I guess. Now I try to adjust while it prints the helper disc slowly. but it just seems all over the place. When I need to go up with the plate(plate is to far from nozzle) the adjustment screw is effing loose. But I have successfully printed amazing stuff. Very frustrating.
Hey! could you be able to link which bearings you purchased? Thanks for the video good stuff!
Which of the thumbwheels did you print? I downloaded the files but there are 4 versions but look identical from what I can tell when looking at the photos.
helped so much. thank you
not seen the upgraded y plate anywhere else , will have to get on that once i have the bearing. I am going with self lubricating bronze bushing. for the plate
i wanted to go with the igus but can only find them in short length. link to the ones you found?
You have to use 2 small ones and glue them into a holder , you can find it on thingiverse .
www.thingiverse.com/thing:878675
The bushings are on the way from china , loooonnnng shipping but i will let you know how it works. The noise that axis is the most annoying, after the fans in the PSU but thats next on my list after pay day , get some nice noctua fans ordered.
+Andrew Joy those are plastic not self lubricating bronze? as for the fans absolutely I replaced all of my fans I'll have to add them to the list of mods it's an amazing difference printers damn near silent
You misunderstand, you put the self lubricating bronze inside them.
+Andrew Joy ahh ok. not a fan of using plastic even as a sleeve cant gelpnbut feel slop might woek its way in. got a link to your bronze?
You mentioned using transfer tape to stick the glass to the aluminum plate. What kind/brand of transfer tape did you use?
if I did that was a mistake. I use 3m transfer tape to attach the PEI surface to the glass but NOT the glass to the heat bed.
I used silicone padding for that but it was unreliable over time so now I just use blue tape on the 4 corners. works fine lasts a long time easy cheap to replace.
very nice. i am installing these aswell. thank you. can you post your retraction settings for petg?
Kostas Kaldis i have not had to really change them much just increase them a tiny bit sometimes. my particular settings are useless unless you also have a flexion.
ok buddy, thanks
Thanks for the video, awesome stuff. I was trying to check out the aluminum plate upgrade you suggest, but the link goes to an error page, could you update it please? Thanks!
Yes they sell out often. 2 of what i consider absolutely essential upgrades that turns this machine from ok yo amazing
Y carriage plate amzn.to/2JRN7Dv
Z brace kit amzn.to/2w9xy8c
Best $70 you can spend on tbis older but seriously solid machine once upgraded.
Nerys awesome, thank you. I’ve had one for several years and have been printing sub par on a stock machine. Decided to upgrade it and make it good before I bail and get a Tevo Tornado.
Can you please list what and where to buy the upgrades? That would be most helpful!
all links in description now.
Where did you find a plate that has the correct spacing for the bearing blocks? Every one I've seen for any Prusa i3 type uses 170mm spacing instead of the 140mm spacing as on the Maker Select.
you dont. you bolts the plated together using corner holes and drill it. very easy took 5 minutes.
Hi, thanks for the detailed explainer and links to all the great files. I've used what I've learned in your video to level my bed swiftly when necessary.
I looked through the files for the mount you have that connects the control unit to the printer, but I couldn't find it. Did I overlook it? I'd like to connect the whole system together like you had yours.
Miles Aurbeck i do not have mine connected. i am ok with them being apart and never tried to hard mount them together. if i were to i would get a sheet of plywood and bolt both components down into that. i would not trust a printed part with that kind of load. any pri ted part sufficient to hold that amount of mass would cost more tha. the piece of wood.
Ok, thanks for the response. I must have seen this as part of another video and connected it with yours by mistake. Thanks!
Miles Aurbeck no worries. i will try to poke around and see if i can find something like that on thingiverse.
Nerys oh, great. I saw that somewhere and now that I think about it he also had a little SD card slot stuck in his too to help guide the card in. Can't find either for the life of me. I'll do octoprint one day, but until then I'd like to try to keep from scraping it all up trying to stick it in straight
I THINK this is what you want
www.thingiverse.com/thing:1261720
has a bracket to link the brain box to the printer body making it "all one" so to speak.
What a GREAT video! This must be one of the most informatve Di3 videos on youtube! Hats off to you sir! 👏
But i have a question;
if i would allign my whole printer (cause its out of allignment probably in every "bolt joint"), how and where would i start?
Put it on a leveled table, and then level the base, and make sure all of that is square, then work upwards to the "tower"? And to level the y-axis rods, where should i measure from to get them straight with the bottom frame and all the other parts?
I just dont know where to start. :-)
(im waiting on the upgraded carriage plate, as i think the stock is bent as im suddenly not able to level the bed anymore).
Thanks man!
Alpejohn the stock one is thin enough that it bends constantly it's not that you can't level it's just that level is always changing because it's always changing shape a glass plate will help compensate for this since the glass won't Bend so that is my first suggestion get a glass plate drop it on there and relevel
when we say level we don't mean level as in with a bubble level or to gravity you could screw this printer sideways to the wall and it should work fine when we say level we mean the level relative to the nozzle and the bed
so the first thing I would do is make sure you have a good six point contact with whatever surface you're sitting in printer on do the two corners up front and the two corners in the back and the Gantry left and right make sure they are all in contact with the ground plane that you have the printer setting on
next use a square and square the X Gantry reasonably well doesn't have to be perfect just not obviously tilted forward or backwards and now tighten all of your bolts don't crank them you'll strip them just make sure they're all tight and firm check them all make sure your belts are also tight
now tighten down all for leveling screws until they are compressed all the way at this stage here is where you level your x-axis by using something like what I use to bottle or something and manually tweaked lead screws left and right until you have the same gap between the bed and that bottom rail on both the left and the right
now you've squared your body to the table and your Gantry to the body and your ex access to the bed now begin your leveling procedure raise the bed using all 4 leveling screws in equal terms after Auto homing with the nozzle in the center until you get close you should still see a gap between the bed and the nozzle if you add a piece of glass don't forget to adjust your end stop for your Z access
disable your steppers and gently slide the x-axis left and right is the gap the same? Adjust to it is do the same by sliding y-axis the bed forward and back with the nozzle in the center the left and the right adjust all four screws to evenly bring the bed up when the Gap is very tiny use your piece of paper to fine-tune it on the four corners remember to round robin at least three times since each time you adjust one screw you are altering a plane which changes the adjustment you made on the other three each time you go around your adjustments get finer and finer at this stage print 170mm cylinder with multiple skirt outlines once the print starts turn down the print speed to 25% and begin live adjusting each knob until you get an ideal Extrusion if you run out of time and it begins printing the actual cylinder that's okay cancel scrape restart you won't lose your adjustment you've made so far with the new y Carriage plate installed your level will hold almost indefinitely you will only have to make very minor tweaks every now and then
Nerys Thanks for an excellent explanation.
At the start i managed to level okay (first time I ever had or seen a 3d printer) adjusted several times over a few weeks. Moved it to my office, leveled, printed several things, then I removed the hotbed to have a closer look at the bearings as they not moving smooth and sounds like they have sand in them. Also checked the carriage plate, and it was bent a little bit. After I mounted it back together I just couldn't get it leveled, I then also had (I have) a glass plate on it. That was the main reason I was going to level it. But every time I end up with the front right and rear left maxed out (flat), and the front left and rear right completely loose, and they can't lift the bed high enough. Tried several methods of leveling but every time I end up the same way. If I move the z stop up, I can't get the bed high enough it seems, the springs are almost totally decompressed.
But I will try your method to, and also try to square the whole thing.
When I leveled the Z, I had my glue stick on the base where the stepper motor sits, not on the bed it selfe like you do.
Im waiting on a upgraded carriage plate in the mail, also I have ordered the igus dryling "bearings" as the ones I have is shit and the bed moves jerky..
Alpejohn if you add a glass plate you have to move your Z stop look on the side of the Gantry that little little micro switch that it hits when it comes down to the bottom it has multiple locations where you can move it you need to move that switch so that the move the switch up so the head stop sooner and doesn't run into glass also if one side is amaxing and the other side is not that usually means you're x-axis is not level
Nerys I will try again this evening. and level it like you do. Havent tried that before. But it was the diagonal front right and rear left that was maxed totally flat, so it wasnt only one side.
I will give it a go and try to adjust and square it, and repirt back. thank you so much for your time!
Alpejohn i also just realized i have yet to make a video on the ACTUAL leveling process. i will work on that. the cr10 first then the i3 once its running again.
I run my z all the way up until it clicks from running out of threads. Then roll it back down with the motor. Seems simple enough, and then I level the bed. Everything you said, yep.
Brian Johnson that is a acary stupid simple andneffective idea. Damn why did i not think of that. :-)
Surely you should be doing the levelling independently from the bed. It is important that the Z axis is 'true' horizontal based on the fixed frame it is attached to and not a moveable part being the bed. Even with the levelling screws tightened there will always be differences due to the tolerances. When you then level the bed in the normal manner the thumbscrews can be adjusted without twisting. If you are experiencing for example front right requiring 360 rotation clockwise and rear left 360 anti clockwise then your issue would be the frame itself and yes you may experience twisting. In principal I am sure your solution works but it could end up causing more issues in the long run. Ideally your actual machine must be placed on a perfectly flat solid surface and the machine itself levelled before attempting firstly the independent levelling of the Z axis followed by the bed. We currently run 3 printers 1 of which is an industrial machine the others are all Prusa Based all in varying sizes so have been through the levelling process a multitude of times.
paul w i think z arm should be leveled to bed not absolute tighten down level z arm then level bed. at least that seems to give me the best results.
Nerys,
Thanks so much for putting this tutorial together. Without it the learning curve would be much steeper. Thanks for the Flexion suggestion, I think it's the most important upgrade!
The Maker Select V2 I have came with aluminum thumb screw but the leveling drifts with every print. I find myself leveling it a substantial amount on every new print. I have tried using small o-rings between them and the plate(upgraded) and it still drifts. I plan on printing the thumbscrews you have suggested. I have successfully printed TPU at 80mm/s. Have you had any success printing faster than that? Thanks again!
nemec3rd no. your thumbscrews are fine. what you need is to replace the aluminum plate below your bed. its too thin so it warps and this is why you have to keep releveling about $24 on ebay. such a huge improvement!
Thanks for the quick response, I did replace the plate with the one you recommended and it still drifts?? Maybe the threads on the thumb screws are a little sloppy. I'll give new thumbscrews a try and give you an update.
install the spring cups (make sure they fit loose) this will help keep the springs straight and keep level from moving.
also make sure your gantry is snug (not wobbly)
also check your X carriage level (like I do in the video with the pill bottle) this will still drift (not sure why) I have to reset mine now and then. not too often but enough.
Thanks, I think maybe I was just being a bit too anal on the leveling. I have been able to run about 10 prints without changing anything. I am printing almost edge to edge so I think leveling is more sensitive when printing so close to the edge.
nemec3rd correct when printing on a full bed the level of the entire bed becomes critical so if you're print surface is not perfectly flat that will cause you some trouble and you might just have to make some compromises and have some slightly to squish and some slightly less squished areas to get a overall compromise over the entire surface but if you're successfully making Prince like that you're probably okay
Are those parts printed with the hatchbox orange pla?
DIY Home Repair and Improvement no. esun pla pro in orange.
Thanks!!!!
nice video!
thank you. got a more detailed slowed down video planned. also planning to make my first expansion of the y axis on my way to 8x13x16 inches.
Hello. Thanks for the tutorial. I recently purchased the flexion extruder, and the motor you linked. After installation, my extruding motor will not turn. I opened up the box to get to the board, and adjusted the driver for the motor to the correct level. No dice. Turned up the driver past what i calculated, and still nothing. Even lowered it below the level and still nothing. The motor turns freely when the printer is not on, but for some reason will not turn and move the filament. I'm running out of ideas, any advice on what to try next?
changed the two center wires. didnt see the bit the description. thanks a ton.
cameron ice ahhh good that is what i was going to reply with. the flexion can be annoying to tweak bit the results are amazing.
You can adjust both sides using the couplers once the z is low enough.
Also I think if you are going to explain a procedure, actually do the procedure. Some people are more visual.
100% agreed but please keep in mind this was my second 3D printer a very long time ago I was very new at this at the time
Just to be a bit nit picky, but I think that tramming the Z axis using the bed as a reference is not the best idea. The Z axis stepper motors are installed on metal plates behind the columns, and I think the plates are what you should be measuring from. That way when you tram the bed itself, the bed will be trammed to the Z axis which is trammed to the frame.
Ive also found that the easiest way to do bed levelling is just to use a feeler gauge to set a consistent gap. I've done this and checked it with a dial indicator, and the feeler gauge can get me to within 50 microns of deviation, which I can then use the indicator to tweak.
John Smith agreed but if I tighten down the Springs all the way and that's the optimal tram since the bed might not be level of all to the frame plus it just takes too damn long to raise a z all the way to the top:-) the trick is to not continue modifying the bed level as the x-axis changes but to recognize that the x-axis is changing and correct it but yes if Izzy was faster than raising It To The Top to balance them out would be ideal I just don't have the seven or eight minutes takes to do that plus the another or 8 minutes to bring it back down
to clarify. ultimately you are not leveling the bed you are leveling bed relative to x axis (tramming)
so the bed determines the ultimate level (or the x axis does) ideally (something new I learned a couple weeks ago) raise X to the top till both top out on the frame. done. now level the bed.
this has a few problems though (which is why I don't use it) First it takes a small ETERNITY to raise the X all the way up the length of Z and back down. especially on a larger printer.
second this ONLY works if you have 2 z steppers and rods.
the last issue is raising the x all the way up on the maker select wanhao is problematic since one of its design issues is that parts and bits impact or bend on the frame.
its easier to simply compress all the springs to max. tram the x axis to that then level the bed.
if you ever lose tramming just twist the right z motor till its trammed again with some sort of guide
so so much faster than z all the way up and down.
Hey there, after 2 years with this printer would you still recommend it? I am new to 3D printing
No. Its a good machine. If you can get a cheap one used and want to play sure. But an ender 3 is far cheaper better quality of construction electronics and print quality and a bigger print volume.
Hey ive been followimg your videos on thid monoorice mker select v2. I have been using mine for a few weeks now and have a question for you... i want to know what the stock power supply (PSU) is rated for in amperage.. it says on the side 250w but only 2amps.. how is that possible? It is rated for 20amps? Like the wanhao i3? Im asking because i wanted to upgrade the control box fan to an 80mm Noctua fan..and wanted to make sure that the PSU would be able to handle it.. thanks.steve
+FPV Addict 20amps is at 12v which is the same as 2amps at 120volts. V*A=W so 120v times 2 amps is 240watts (close enough to 250w) 20amps times 12v is the same 240w so you are good to go.
The psu will literally not even notice the noctua fan. You could add 20 of them and it would not blink. Go for it. You will love the quiet :-)
Nerys ok great. So your sayong that the power in is 120v amd is rated for 2 amps. And then theres the 20amp psu for 12v rated for 20amps..? Am i reading that correct?. Cause i want to add 12v 12inch led strip as well.. am i good?
+FPV Addict yep you got it. Amps means nothing without voltage they go together so 120v 2 amp is the same amount of power as 12v 20 amps. Fans and leds are fine you wont stress it at all.
good video
"Can't be anal retentive if you don't have an anus!"
This video is so overly detailed and PRECISELY what I need the way I am wired to understand how to properly set up my printer. Thanks so much for your awesome work!
I can't figure out what's going on at all, my printer head is hanging 1/2" in the air and won't go down any further. From what I can see, there's a switch that stops it from going down any more. Even if the thumbscrews are entirely unscrewed it's still leaves the bed far too lower. It looks like it's suppose to be this way by design, there is nothing out of place.
move/adjust the switch. Just be careful its delicate.
also make sure your GANTRY (the part you bolted onto your printer bottom) is installed correctly/in the right holes.
I fixed it. The problem wasn't with the Switch or the Gantry.
The issue, for the sake of anyone else running into the same problem, related to the thumbscrews. If you don't loosen all of them evenly, at the same time, you can get into a situation where they all seem to be completely unscrewed, yet the bed remains 1/2" below the printhead. Unscrewing them evenly, a little at a time, allows the bed to rise higher then unscrewing them all the way individually.
Max SMoke ahhhh yes that would do i it was binding. thank you for bringing that info back to help others.
you buy the high temp kit for the flexion yet?
Jason Southwell yes i have it but have still to install it yet. hopefully in the coming weeks inwill get it installed.
just got a roll of 3 pounds of string trimmer round 1.7mm for $24. 3 pounds of nylon! fingers crossed cant wait to try it.
hi, between this and a mega i3 anycubic? I'm very undecided, even if I would buy the duplicator i3 plus as a model of Wanhao and not this one. Final print quality who wins between the two you have? thank you
As much as I love my wanhao it's not even a competition the I3 Mega significantly Superior and requires no modifications to make run properly while the duplicator I3 will require modifications to be able to run properly namely Z bracing and replacement y Carriage plate
Ti3 Mega also has a slightly larger build volume although it's virtually identical is an all-in-one unit and has significantly better print quality it's also about the same price I would definitely go with the I3 Mega
ok thank you very much for the feedback, I did well to ask you! Do you think the same applies to the i3 plus model? (I do not know if you've tried it).
With the i 3 mega to layer 0.2, at what maximum speed can you print? and what upgrade tips for this model? You're great and I always thank you! I greet you from Italy and I'm sorry for my ruddy English.
60 mm second should be pretty easy with the I3 Mega I can't recommend any upgrades because it honestly doesn't need any one thing I would like to do eventually is a z bracing like the duplicator V2 since the I3 Mega does slightly suffer from the same problem where the verticals are a bit flexible Z bracing might help with that otherwise it's good as it is
hello, you're a great man, you convinced me and I ordered it from amazon yesterday, today it should come to me. I don't found the z bracing on thingiverse, and I don't find anything to fix i3 mega to the table(very strong and heavy table), if you have some links or you will create someone, I thank you and will report them to the Italian community of i3 mega to which I joined. Thank you so much
Hey just wanted to stop in and subscribe, i talked to you at MRRF about my maker select that i bent the y carriage on.
You betcha. This is what you need. amzn.to/2GCvXvx some of them need holes drilled. If it does put bolts through the level knob holes and use old one as a guide.
Nerys ill check that out i may actualy have a plate of .125 its a bit thicker than 3mm but i dont think tjat will hurt would it
Yes it would but not badly if the plate is too heavy it will add noise to your prince since you're now moving more mass so you have more inertia but if it's close that's okay you can always add lightning holes to it to reduce the Mass
Nerys just like race cars speed holes are the answer .125 alum is 3.175 so not a huge amount
Oh that will be just fine that is 3 for all intents and purposes just remember all the corners use it as a guide drill out maybe cut the four sides in a little bit concave be careful with the bed impacting anything in the travel path etcetera for example on the anet E12 it uses that space so I had to actually raise the bed up higher to clear it :-)
I keep reading about the MOSFET mod as being really important. Do you recommend?
I am not entirely sure I don't have enough knowledge to know for sure whether you really should consider adding it or not when I can say is there cheap and it can't hurt so if it helps peace of mind at it when time allows I'm thinking about adding them to a lot of my printers simply to reduce the load on the brain board so they will last longer
There are plenty of people who have had their boards smoked by loose wires or bad solders at the bed connection. The MOSFET takes that responsibility away from the controller board. IMO, the MOSFET upgrade is a must-do for the bed AND hot end on ANY printer.
Where did ypu purchase the borosilica glass for the make select v2?
+FPV Addict amazon amzn.to/2zQut9C
Nerys ok great. Thank ypu.. another quick question though.. it says it 220 by 200. The screws for tightening the bed are right on the edge. So will thia fit exactly on the monoprice naker select v2?
+FPV Addict yes. There will be space on 2 sides but that is not printable space. It is what i use on mine.
Thanks for being smart and CONCISE. Oh, how I wish all tech tips were presented like this. Thanks for not trying to "entertain" us. This is not late-night teevee. These are serious specific details concerning equipment in a (most likely home) lab. Are the chirpy presenters hoping seeing their "show" will contribute to the presentation?
While I do love the well produced and edited videos. they bring entertainment and value. I just don't have the time skill or money and resources to do that. I work 95 hours a week between 2 jobs taking care of stuff I should not have to take care of but hey. thats life.
but I was raised on the pay it forward type of mentality. knowledge is worthless if its not shared.
SO I try to share it. within my limitations :-) I appreciate the kind words. thank you.
you are printing at a very slow rate. Is it a 0.1 or lower print?
yes that is TPU printing in vase mode. ie delicate.
before anyone asks where the parts are look in the description!!!
Nerys, what (if anything) did you have to change in the firmware for the flexion extruder? Thanks.
Steven Young the only firmware change was adjusting the extruder value to be correct so 100mm was 100mm
otherwise i had to upgrade the stepper to be strong the stock one was not strong enough. $14 on amazon
Nerys, thanks for the info. If it's not too much trouble can you send a link to the motor?
Steven Young LEORX Nema 17 2 Phase 4-Wire 1.5A 40mm 1.8° Stepper Motor for 3D Printer www.amazon.com/dp/B015SS3Y7O
Nerys, thanks again for the information. One last question. Are you printing with PLA? I ordered one yesterday and have heard mixed things on printing PLA.
pla is all I have printed with. apparently it is largely why you need a stronger stepper.
You're printing PETG with the stock head?
Yes. Petg prints fine stock.
I have only 2 questions. What is your slicer for that amazing rook? And what are your setting? I've done most of these mods and am no where close to you in quality.
Victorthebattousai simplify 3d. the only setting was extrusion to .97 after adjusting rom value to what it needed to be to get proper extrusion.
Nerys what are your speed settings? temperature and cooling settings? id love to see your simplify3d profile, as thats what i use
Victorthebattousai not sure it was a while ago. i know i run cooling at 90% and speed around 40 iirc. temp is usually the rated temp on the packaging for the filament.
At 90% fan speed with a 50mm blower, how are you keeping your nozzle from getting too cool? I'm running a 50mm blower fan and even after pid tuning my nozzle drops to 160 degrees when at 100% fan speed haha.
Victorthebattousai no idea. i keep it insulated and the fan is not aimed at the nozzle but at the part. printer does not seem to have any trouble staying hot.
do you have a link to the printer also? would like to get one of these.
and which extruder option do i pick? im assuming its the common dual one, thnx. ill be getting this printer soon. just doing some more research.
you want the single extruder kit. comes with 2 hot ends if you get the high temp kit.
hi, where are the instructions to drill holes for the y carriage plate?
there are none. but its pretty easy. the 4 corner (leveling) holes line up. bolts the two places together using those. now it can go "two" ways. one way results in holes partially lining up. this is the wrong way. flip it around so they do NOT line up.
drill all your holes (3/16th bit)
that's it. put it back together.
+Nerys thank you for the reply, it was great help. Just to be sure, the y carriage plate upgrade helps with the warping issue found on the original right? I should have asked this as well in my original comment.
+Nerys I almost forgot, I have the maker select that's based off the wanhao di3 v2.1 verson
+rickyay26 yep. one of the single best upgrades you can make. easier to level and the leveling stays locked and consistent.
+rickyay26 yep so do i. its not based on the wanhao it actually is the wanhao made by wanhao and labled for monoprice.
could u link the STL files for the mods ?
in description now
Excellent...very informative... #cobraknows
Do you print that slow on all your prints and how slow is it ?
for those kinds? yes. thats a single layer tpu print. very thin and delicate till its done. also tpu bonds better and displaysbmore metallic/stained glass like if you go slower.
+Nerys how slow is it
+brian 96 no idea. its adaptive i think normal speed was set at 1500mm/m with minimum layer time 20sec and outer layer at 80% iirc.
what settings are you using for PETG?
Jason Southwell no changes except to temperature and otherwise normal diameter measurement tweaks. hardest part of petg is first layer adhesion for me. if i nailbthe first layer it will come out perfect and i do mean perfect petg prints very very nicely but man if you can't stick layer one dont even waste your time letting it goto layer two. its real finicky that way.
thats funny, I have the opposite happening. sticking so good to the PEI that it tore a chunk off when I tried to take a print off! I grabbed some esun white petg. tried to take it off cold bed though.....
Jason Southwell ahhhh i have not tried petg since gpong with pei. i will have to try that. petg does stick very hard once it does stick. one trick i use is to lay a piece of tape so that part of it will end up under the print. that way i can lift the tape spray some alcohol and work the scraper in. works very well.
why do you print so low speed?
Diodo Paul because that particilar print was tpu a flexible material with a really thin wall and i wanted to see if slower would improve its quality.
did it improve the quality?
Twitching Shark yes. well to be more correct printing too fast reduced print quality with these tupes of materials.
lol i love how you just have a random pile of cash just lying around
ehh i delivery pizza 4 days worth of tips getting ready to pay bills
There is a v2 of the carriage: www.amazon.com/Anodized-Aluminum-Carriage-Upgrade-3D/dp/B01FV17EL0/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_t got any thought if it's better than the one you purchased?
Hi,
Could you share the STL for the "tool holder" you seem to have installed on the top right of the printer? I hate all the stuff lying around my printer :)
Edit: I think I found it in your makes on thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/make:223680
Is it that one?
yep. thats it. I am still tweaking and modding it. if I make another revision I will post it.
Hi, thx for the video.
As a note, there is now a direct drop in option for the Y-plate (no need to re-drill holes): amazon: a.co/dSVCb1z or aliexpress: www.aliexpress.com/item/Wanhao-Upgrade-Y-Carriage-Plate-for-Wanhao-Duplicator-i3-Monoprice-Maker-Select-V1-V2-V2-1/32802313568.html
And as a question, where was the replacement motor for - the Flexion extruder itself or the X stepper?
pumpalBo cool and that is the thicker plate right?
as for the stepper check notes its linked and still available on amazon for $15.
yes but which motor we replace with it ? The one that comes with the Flexion ?
pumpalBo ahh the feeder stepper fornthe filament. the one directly attached to the moving print head.
Huh, I admit I am new to this, but are you suggesting we purchase an $150 higher class exctruder (the Flexion) and immediately have to replace the motor that goes with it ? Or am I not getting something right .. ?
Really appreciate this video btw, intending to implement most part of it to my new i3 v2.1, which is also my first printer ..
P.S> just checked the plate - both the one you linked and the direct replacement I linked are 3mm thick.
pumpalBo the flexion does not come with a stepper motor it uses the one already on the printer. wanhao downgraded the stepper to ancheaper weaker model since they could get away with it but the result is when you replace the stock extruder with the flexion the stock stepper is not powerful enough to work properly with the aftermarket extruder. you would be replacing the mp/wanhao stepper not the flexion stepper which does not come with a stepper motor.
Nice video... but try to drink less coffee!!! ;) you are running to much with the words! but, nice video...
Carlos Silva hehehe yeah i will do a longer more detailed one at some point. oddly enough i dont drink coffee or alcohol. coffee taste like crap to me and alcohol just does not do much for me. dont really take in much caffiene either. just tough to slow down sometimes especially when its something i really enjoy.
i drink expresso only and no alcohol to me neither!!! no stress ;)