So many years back we did the bearings on our 310 which is the bigger cousin to a 273. You can replace almost every bearing with the plunger in the machine. That side bearing that is all messed up rides on a track bolted to the side of the bale chamber. There is an access plate under the chain drive that lets you get to the bearing and the rail is threaded with machine bolts. Pulling the plunger can be a real bear particularly if you have a thrower on the machine like we did.
I didn't film putting it back together after putting in the new bearings. They were so much bigger than the old bearings I had to open up all the tension rails, and set the bearings back to their minimum on the adjusters. It was a real pain. We had to take that plunger back out so many times I thought my wife was going to lose it.
@@middleacres3616 Sometimes, when the balers have been outside, moisture gets between the baler and the rails. With time, rust bulds up and swells the rails out of spec. Might be worth checking if cleaning the rust between those rails and the baler might have something to do with the tight fit.
@@ruedaricardo I appreciate that. Someone on the forums suggested I ping the bearing surfaces like the rails with a welding hammer to break loose any rust. Good advice.
They're all about the same starting with the 268 and they run in sequence up to at least the 275 and then they jump to the 300's. But the mechanisms and size are basically all the same. Even the knotters on the brand new ones are the same as on mine. One thing I would look for is a 2 piece drive shaft so you can turn tighter. Mine doesn't have one and I wish for it every time I do a U-turn.
@@middleacres3616 Awesome advice, thank you, I will look out for that. Can you retrofit a two-piece drive shaft to your baler? I just picked up an old New Holland 256 Rollabar rake - it's my first piece of agricultural equipment. Excited to get started. Now I just need tractor, baler, and sickle bar mower, lol. But it's a start! Thanks for your input on models of balers. And thanks for your great content, I subscribed a little while back, I wish you all the best and will stay tuned for more videos. Cheers!
Do you have a parts manual? If so what's the part number of your bearing and I'll try to see which one you mean. Peaceful Creek sells really good parts manuals.
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So many years back we did the bearings on our 310 which is the bigger cousin to a 273. You can replace almost every bearing with the plunger in the machine. That side bearing that is all messed up rides on a track bolted to the side of the bale chamber. There is an access plate under the chain drive that lets you get to the bearing and the rail is threaded with machine bolts.
Pulling the plunger can be a real bear particularly if you have a thrower on the machine like we did.
Gotta say,,,pulling a plunger is a MANLY endeavor.
Tackled this same job last week. I removed the upper tension rail and it really made it all so much easier.
I didn't film putting it back together after putting in the new bearings. They were so much bigger than the old bearings I had to open up all the tension rails, and set the bearings back to their minimum on the adjusters. It was a real pain. We had to take that plunger back out so many times I thought my wife was going to lose it.
@@middleacres3616 Sometimes, when the balers have been outside, moisture gets between the baler and the rails. With time, rust bulds up and swells the rails out of spec. Might be worth checking if cleaning the rust between those rails and the baler might have something to do with the tight fit.
@@ruedaricardo I appreciate that. Someone on the forums suggested I ping the bearing surfaces like the rails with a welding hammer to break loose any rust. Good advice.
Good video thank you I am going to tackle some baler . This helped
Amazing what a longer bar can do!
We broke the plunger arm on our 273 so I’m going to follow this for the repair this week.
So how'd it go? I hope you were able to weld it. The price for new parts is just crazy.
@@middleacres3616 yeah we were able to weld it now just have to replace bearings
Nice job! So is the 273 like the smallest old New Holland Baler out there? Would you recommend for a first-time newbie?
They're all about the same starting with the 268 and they run in sequence up to at least the 275 and then they jump to the 300's. But the mechanisms and size are basically all the same. Even the knotters on the brand new ones are the same as on mine. One thing I would look for is a 2 piece drive shaft so you can turn tighter. Mine doesn't have one and I wish for it every time I do a U-turn.
@@middleacres3616 Awesome advice, thank you, I will look out for that. Can you retrofit a two-piece drive shaft to your baler? I just picked up an old New Holland 256 Rollabar rake - it's my first piece of agricultural equipment. Excited to get started. Now I just need tractor, baler, and sickle bar mower, lol. But it's a start! Thanks for your input on models of balers. And thanks for your great content, I subscribed a little while back, I wish you all the best and will stay tuned for more videos. Cheers!
I have gotten as far as you, but I can't get the bearing off the spindles with her key tops . Just too rusty, any ideas on the bearing removal?
Do you have a parts manual? If so what's the part number of your bearing and I'll try to see which one you mean. Peaceful Creek sells really good parts manuals.
I want job in baler work with you