NEW HOLLAND 326 Square Baler Initial Repair 4 - Knotter Bill Hook and Knife Arm Remove & Install
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 มิ.ย. 2020
- In this video I remove, inspect, and replace one of the bill hooks on the New Holland 326 square baler. I also remove, install, and adjust the knife arm. This is part of the initial repair on the 326 square baler.
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Let me know if you have any questions. Hopefully you find this useful and interesting.
Thanks for watching!! Enjoy!!! - บันเทิง
Thank you for posting the videos, I just bought 326 and is eager to learn from your videos while it is also fun to watch.
Glad you enjoy them. Hopefully theybwill be helpfull to you.
Thank you for taking the time to put together this video. You really help me take the mystery out of the NH Baler Knotter mechanism. In addition to the specific repair, it gave me a better understanding of the Knotter Assembly operation and lubrication. Wonderful resource for my current repair of the knotter assembly of my NH 315. You are making a difference for us who like to do our own repairs.
Thank you for this video and your explanation of each step- you have now helped me replace both my billhooks and troubleshoot other issues with my JD14t baler. Job well done!
Thank you for taking time and endless patience to describe the knotter of your baler. One will always learn from watching these videos and your’s was certainly a great help.
Thank you. Happy and healthy 2021.
Thank you for the kind comment. I'm glad you found it useful
Good job explaining your repairs & adjustments. I've been servicing balers along time & U are spot on + very knowledgeable about the baler.
Great info on adjusting the knife holder. 👍
Nice video. Helpful if anyone has to work on their knotters.
Good job explaining how to work on the knotters. Bobby in Arkansas.
Nicest explanation I’ve seen. Those old mechanics used crescent wtench to adjust knife arm but I never got it to work, hammer method way easier.
Your videos are the best
Thanks glad you think so!
What a great video, a great thanks from Australia, very hard here to get info. I have the Australian made New Holland Model 317, a great machine.
You need to invest in a rotor hay rake I think it would solve a lot of baler problems .looks like to me you have figured out the hard stuff. used 10 foot rotor are fairly reasonable priced best money you will spend. I truly believe that
How does that save any money? You still have to bale it.
Thanks for the video. I am having problems with the stacking distance and clearances on the knotter assembly. I have a NH 570 with hydro tension. If you ever get the time I would love to ask you some questions about this baller. Thanks for your time and help.
Excellent video, a lot of valuable info for the home mechanic.
Guys who know their way around a knotter are getting scarce!
Nigel in Ireland.
Nigel!!! I just received your package today! Thanks so much for the letter, catalogue, and paper. That is the first package I’ve ever received! Sorry it took so long to get to me. I haven’t read it all yet but have glanced through and it’s amazing to see how different they are from publications in the US. Thanks again!
@@thebalerman No problem! I thought you'd be interested to see our national farming weekly paper, and one of 3 or 4 classic and vintage magazines published in the UK. Should of included a "Farmers Weekly" which is the UK weekly paper, but the postage was mounting up!
Sitting here waiting for our daughter to finish up a 2 hour Tennis class, so lots of time to mess on the phone!
@@nigelmchugh5541 I think it's pretty cool.
Thank you so much for the video, been having issues with our 315 we bought used and just started using on our small hobby farm, at first right side would not swipe knots off bill hook but was able to adjust swipe arm so it worked perfect for 60+ bales.
Now sheared both main flywheel bolt and knotter shear bolt, found right side bill hook 180 degrees wrong direction, can’t rotate to correct location as gear hits stops, from you video I assume I have to fully remove bill hook to rotate and align gear flat spot to match left side. No idea how it even could have rotated 180 degrees. Hope this makes sense. Any suggestions appreciated, keep up the great videos!
Do you have a video for setting the timing on the 316
Hello! Tell me how to set the ignition on the NEW HOLLAND 377 press. We have a gap between the knives of 1 cm where to put the pads on the knife that is on the body? Or on the piston? Which one would be more correct?
If I understand correctly you're needing to set the clearance between you knife on the plunger and the stationary knife. While I haven't worked on that specific model I'm sure it very similar if not the same as the rest of the balers I've worked on. For starters look at the rails and and areas that the bearings for the plunger run and check for excessive wear. If worn replace. This must be done with the plunger out. Check wear on the bearings as well. Once you've verified there isn't excessive wear then you will adjust the rollers. You should have some fixed rollers/bearings on the pickup side of the plunger. The opposite side of the plunger should have a roller with a cam so-to-speak and you adjust that roller to push the plunger to towards the pickup. You should have I believe around 0.015 - 0.030" clearance on the rollers. Once this is done you need to look at the "tail" of the plunger and make sure you have a similar clearance on those rollers and ensure that the knives are parallel with each other front to back. Once all this is done you measure between the knives and shim them to achieve around 0.015" clearance and ensure the knives are parallel top to bottom. This is off the top of my head so I'm sure I've left something out but this is kind of the rough process. Hopefully this helps. It won't help you immediately but as part of my balers series I will be working on I will try to cover this process in one of my videos. That will be a while before I can do that though. Good luck!
Being a older baler and limited parts, can you build the billhook up with a weld and then grind down to specs?
Perhaps you could to get by temporarily. But they really need to be smoother than a grinder. You’d have to sand probably and the odds of getting a proper shape is probably dismal at best. Bill hooks are readily available. I just have a set on hand already that is easier to use than going to get one. The knotters share a lot of parts between many baler models.
My knoter works perfect but wen te nife arm goes back at his normaal plas the twine coms on the rong side of the bilhook
Do you have a video on adjusting the knife itself and not the scraper? I have my 1 knotter missing cutting the string from the bale and my scraper is tight enough but the knife seems to be out of adjustment.
No I don't have a video on that. I've never had a knife out of adjustment, not sure that can happen. Unless the knife arm is bent really bad which I would assume would cause the scraper to be off as well. When you say it's missing cutting the string do you mean it's just not cutting it or it's completely missing the string? I've seen where the knife is partially broke and is bent a little or its dull. If you have pictures or a video you can share that would be good. You can email me at franklincountyforage@gmail.com
@@thebalerman I definitely will email you pictures the next time it happens when we bale hay. The string on the left knotter will still be tied to the previous bale (like it wasnt cut) and continue out the baler until I noticed it. 1 time we had 50ft of sisal twine drag out tied to the last bale it tied lol. But the right knotter won't miss a beat. I tried and measure the gap for the knife to the billhook but don't seem to know how to adjust it how the manual says.
diesel creek sent me
You said you went to far. How did you correct the error? What did I miss?
If you're talking about towards the end when I was tightening up the clearance between the knife arm and billhook and got it too tight, I skipped loosening it back up because its the same process as I did on the right knotter. I didn't think there was any need to be repetitive. Thanks for the comment
What about the travel can’t get mine to travel far enough
When you say travel what are you talking about? The knotter frame, the knife arm, or the billhook?
It looks to me that the worn Bill Hook could be built up with welding and massaged back to near original condition.
You may be able to, I've never tried it. You'd really have to get it completely smooth for it to work. I would say if a person was going to try something like this it would be better to braze it. I still think replacement is the best bet.
Hola soy argertino esta lo que enseñas pero me lo puedes traducir grcias
how tight do you tighten the nut at the spring.
I assume you’re talking about the one that tensions the billhook. That will depend on the baler, amount of wear, and the twine used. I will usually end up with just a little thread sticking out past the nut. My check besides baling and fine tuning it that way, is you should be able to take you less finger and lift the tongue of the billhook slightly off its resting point. If you can’t move it at all it’s too tight. If you can open it wide open it’s too lose. Hope this helps.
@@thebalerman Yes that does. Thanks to you we finally could get the arm off and sharpen the blade. Thank you for the Video.
No problem…happy to help. Good luck with everything else and hope the baler does well for you.
I don’t get why you were hitting that piece with the hammer?
The knife arm? I was adjust it to rub on the billhook.
Jesus Christ you are confusing
Ok thanks! 👍