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Yeah that 3 point is a lot faster and easier than turning those rusty crank arms!

So how'd it go? I hope you were able to weld it. The price for new parts is just crazy.

@@middleacres3616 yeah we were able to weld it now just have to replace bearings

They're all about the same starting with the 268 and they run in sequence up to at least the 275 and then they jump to the 300's. But the mechanisms and size are basically all the same. Even the knotters on the brand new ones are the same as on mine. One thing I would look for is a 2 piece drive shaft so you can turn tighter. Mine doesn't have one and I wish for it every time I do a U-turn.

@@middleacres3616 Awesome advice, thank you, I will look out for that. Can you retrofit a two-piece drive shaft to your baler? I just picked up an old New Holland 256 Rollabar rake - it's my first piece of agricultural equipment. Excited to get started. Now I just need tractor, baler, and sickle bar mower, lol. But it's a start! Thanks for your input on models of balers. And thanks for your great content, I subscribed a little while back, I wish you all the best and will stay tuned for more videos. Cheers!

Best of luck!

Ebay

I guess I can. It's just the factory remotes. I don't have a 3rd Function I think they call it.

Do you have a parts manual? If so what's the part number of your bearing and I'll try to see which one you mean. Peaceful Creek sells really good parts manuals.

It's funny the things they want us to worry about. Just being on a tractor is dangerous enough.

If you mean the one between the 3 point arms I just raise it up out of the way and leave it on there because that's what I pull the rake with.

@@middleacres3616 yes the crossbar I get that mixed up over the years really leery of the arms going up and down over the years. 60+ years been on the tractor quite a bit of the time over that time. Love my sway bars. Thanks for the video.

Yeah I need a hay rack and my kids to be 10 years older!

@@middleacres3616 Have your wife or girlfriend drive the 3000.

They'll turn on 1 tire!

@@middleacres3616 yep

Good luck on the weather.

I wouldn't be surprised if they were still in use somewhere.

Well that's good b/c I'm leaving now to go rake.

Thank you sir!

Hey thanks!

I really appreciate that. Thanks to you I'm posting one today!

I love everything about it except those 2 lower inside grease points on the pivot arms. You know the two I mean?

@@middleacres3616 yes they are a pain to get too

My 2015 Kubota M7060 with turbo used to heat up if it was constantly under load brush hogging. I think it was the turbo. When the light came on I'd go to the house and spray out the radiator until it cooled down. Glad I sold it.

I completely agree.

Wobble box, reel support bushings, pulley shaft, and U joints. Got it!

My grandpa on my dad's side had one and they taught me to be scared of it even when it was parked.

We own 50 and manage the 50 next door.

I keep the shoes tucked into their closest setting. It cuts extremely short.

@@middleacres3616 Agreed.......but the header dont float properly......because of the added weight it dont allow enough spring adjustment to allow the head to float. And with out the shoes......its cuts even nicer !

Thanks for the tip I'll check it out.

@@middleacres3616 Yes..... most haybines were shipped with 1/4 inch worth of spacers between each end of the rolls. Later they bolted the spacers along side the frame next to the rolls. Often they are rusted in ! Might need to heat with a touch to get them out. Dealer told farmers that the rolls should not touch........but by far its more important to have the rolls timed right. The hay protects the rolls from wearing......but if you run the haybine empty for say.....10 minutes they might get a bit warm. That dont hurt them . I ran mine tight together for year.....never had any issues.

Thanks it was kept under cover the last few years. Not sure before that.

Thank you, the only advantage I know of the newer cutters is you can go faster. But my pastures are smaller and rutted enough that I couldn't go any faster anyway.

Paddock location and size changes from spring growth to summer slump to fall regrowth to winter hay feeding. The speed I move them also changes. I don't want to let them continuously graze their same favorite spots with no chance for recovery. Rotational grazing lets your pastures go farther per head. To do that with permanent fencing I'd have to build fifty 2 acre pens.

@@middleacres3616 There you go. You already have your answer right down to the size of the pastures. Greg Judy is the master of fencing, permanent or temporary.

Yes it mows very well down to about 2 inches.

It feeds the cut grass through a set of rollers that smashes it. This lets it dry faster supposedly by a day. With a tight weather window, saving a day is great. It also uses way less horsepower compared to a brush hog or a disc mower because the actual cutting mechanism is a sickle bar.

I didn't film putting it back together after putting in the new bearings. They were so much bigger than the old bearings I had to open up all the tension rails, and set the bearings back to their minimum on the adjusters. It was a real pain. We had to take that plunger back out so many times I thought my wife was going to lose it.

@@middleacres3616 Sometimes, when the balers have been outside, moisture gets between the baler and the rails. With time, rust bulds up and swells the rails out of spec. Might be worth checking if cleaning the rust between those rails and the baler might have something to do with the tight fit.

@@ruedaricardo I appreciate that. Someone on the forums suggested I ping the bearing surfaces like the rails with a welding hammer to break loose any rust. Good advice.

Thanks

I appreciate that. They went on pasture yesterday. Now I'm giving them the few round bales I bought as a free choice option. Those round bales are really good rye grass hay from my neighbor.

I like it a lot. Old Ford's have a reputation for slow hydraulics, but it's fine for me. It's not much slower than my 2017 Kubota M7060 was. I think it's stronger too.

Actually it's been fine over the winter. It also gets a lot of the old hay I pitch over the side which helps.

The quick hitch attachment on the load I bought directly from Westendorf. I think it was right around $1000 plus shipping and tax. I just called them and told them I have a TA-26 and need a snap hitch to quick hitch adapter. But they also sell one where you take off the snap hitch entirely and replace it with a quick hitch for about the same price. I didn't because I have loader attachments for both kinds of hookups and didn't feel like cutting/welding to convert them.

@Middle Acres I was meaning the bucket loader attachment not the quick disconnect attachment? Sorry for not specific

@@jacobaguilar6756 TA-26. It's a good one.

Hey that's awesome! It seems pretty strong, it'll get the front tires up. I dug out a culvert last week with it and was pretty rough on it.

That's true I would have chained it to the bucket next.

I wondered about that. I've got a lot of 2x4 material and I ripped these so they're closer to 2x2 but I can replace them as needed.

Coming out of winter now you were right. About once every 2 weeks I had to replace a vertical and also had to replace 1 horizontal top rail. The nice thing was for the replacements I used white oak scrap boards and they are hard as stone. By the end of winter all the heavy use areas are secure.