Nice 👍 I’ve done oil changes and brakes and a few other bits and pieces over the years. Your how to videos are filling me with confidence to tackle some of the other jobs... 🙂
The New coolant reservoir, looks really on to it. I love Nulon products, they seem to punch above there weight. Nice and real tidy, in the engi e bay. With good a clean already done a few weeks ago. I watched the cleaning vid, the tyre foam is a useful revelation.👍
Better to premix the coolant in case there is coolant left in the system, so that the mix ratios is spot on. Also when putting the clamps back place them on the same spot for a good fit. If the hose is hard to re-insert dip it in boiling water. Works a treat!
Well presented almost professional video , well done . I had my cooling system flushed out a few months ago , I noticed in the Ford Falcon BA repair manual it says the cooling system takes around 12.5 litres but my mechanic said they only take around 8 litres🤔. I would have flushed it out my self by removing the bottom heater hoses on the block to get as much of the old coolant out as possible like the repair manual says but I have no room at my place to do it . I attempted to change the coil packs and spark plugs myself unsuccessfully I might add because I just couldn’t get that back valve cover but off , just as well too because when I took it to my mechanic he got the air hose to clean out around the spark plugs before removing them , mate you should have seen the dirt and getting blown out around the coil packs , I couldn’t believe how much shit blew out . If I had been successful and gotten to the stage of removing the sparks plugs I hate to think of the grit and dirt that would have fallen into the cylinder. Warning to all those that want to change their spark plugs at home , blow out all the dirt around your spark plugs with an air hose or with a few cans compressed of air .
I have cleaned up an expansion tank previously by soaking in nappy wash and putting some metal washers in it and shaking it to loosen the crud inside. Improves them but nothing like a new one if you can get them.
The coolant bottle should last nearly a year until it discolours. Save the old one & clean it up as spare parts are getting harder to find these days. Even if you don't clean it & just store it, you know you have it spare when needed. As Sam D suggested, iridium spark plugs are the go. Again another great video that's easy to follow for those with little mechanical experience. 👍
Just a tip to get to the rear spark plug when you do it, once you crack the plug's seal and loosen with your sockets and a couple of short extensions its useful to pull the plug out (and possibly your spark plug socket) with a piece of rubber hose. If you get stuck one of the coolant return hoses to the coolant reservoir fits perfectly inside the 1/2 inch socket drive and around the spark plug itself and worked a treat to do mine.
I've seen a technique used on yellowing plastics, mainly computer parts to bring them back from yellowing. Its called Retrobriting, basically immersion the part in a peroxide/water mix and exposing the part to UV light. Would be cool to see if you can get it to work on that expansion tank.
Great insight Sean, thanks again. I was talking to my mechanic and asked him why some coolants are green, red etc, and what the difference in colours were, and he said there's no reason other than aesthetics. Dunno, some people may think otherwise but. Some people even match their rocker cover up with their coolant colour! :)
Always found when doing coolant change that the recommended liters to refill were always less as there is always coolant left in system .The last time i did coolant change on BF falcon mk3 after flushing system i used a vacuum cleaner which blows an sucks using the blow mode i was able to blow all the coolant left in system out of engine an radiator as well as heater core just insert vacuum hose into top radiator hose and blow back through radiator with bottom hose undone then reattach thermostat housing without thermostat in an connect top radiator hose will need to unattach from radiator then blow out system.system then takes exactly the recommended liters of coolant so your not mixing old coolant with new .ps you can buy a ozito vacuum cleaner from Bunnings for around $40:00.which is what i used . keep your hands on the wheel an your eyes upon the road 🎣👽
Hot tip... reconnect the bottom hose and direct the top hose down to the ground and run the car with heater core on. (With your garden hose running through the thermostat housing) You'll flush the entire system, heater core and radiator all at once.
Also, undo the hoses in and out of the automatic trans cooler and flush and drain through them. They are at the lowest point in the system apart from the radiator petcock.
Just a suggestion for when you do the coils and spark plugs, get a set of ngk iridium or laser iridium plugs. I have them installed in all my vehicles, and you will notice the difference, it gives you a little extra power and they last a long time, ive clocked over 100000kms on my vn with iridium plugs and each service I've inspected them and each time they look like new, no corroding, the gap hasn't changed, they are definantly worth it
Just use the Ford/Motocraft/Denso ones, about $40 for a set where as the NGK’s are a lot more dollars. Iridium work not much better they are just longer lived. Change the plugs before you burn out the coil packs.
I'm keen to see how the plastic comes out after a clean. You've probably already had a look into different ways to do this but just in case you're still researching, the retro gaming community are pros with this as all of the white, clear and grey components have changed colour over time. I believe they refer to their processes as "retrobrite".
@@nunika1975 not sure what you're searching for - when I put in my XR6T's details Nulon recommends yellow or red. Not all red coolants are the same and I'm going to film a video in the future explaining why.
Check coil packs for misfire. Also make sure to throw silicone spray into the boost solenoid (down below the coolant bottle). Dont use WD40 as it fucks the rubber in it
Dis the BA have the cCam Phasers (honestly cant remember- i know early models didnt), because if you are getting a miss, the seals on the phasers can leak, and fill No 1 & 2 spark plug wells with oil, shorting out the coil.
So far so good. I believe my old thermostat might have been an 82c because my engine runs hotter now - with the 91c thermostat. But from what I can tell this is the temperature Ford intended them to run at, and it consistently holds that temp even in traffic.
The coil packs in my 2009 G6E-T are now 12 years old and have 205,000km on them - still working fine. At this point if I have to replace them all, I'm hardly going to feel hard done by.
Just use genuine coils & put hi temp anti seize on the outside of the coil boot & dielectric grease on the inside to help get the bastards out of the hole & off the plugs when you have to replace next time .
I have heard a old school way of cleaning the coolant overflow plastic tank by putting 2-4 denture cleaning tablets and they can bring all the film out of the tank
Great video as always bro. My mate had a BA XR6T ute with the same dramas, only he had just replaced his coil packs a week before he had the misfiring issues, so even brand new ones can be crap (he took them back to Repco, but they mucked him around with replacement saying they had to send the old ones back to be tested before giving him a new set). It turned out the coil pack was actually firing, but the stem down to the plugs were faulty on 2 of them. Vehicle was off the road for about a week. It always pays to keep the receipt. Keep up the great work mate. Looking forward to the next video. 👌
My ba had a very dirty cooling system due to the previous stupid owner mixing coolant. The cause was a mud like substance in the system. I drained the system when it was cold. The removed the thermostat water pump and radiator. I flushed the block out with a garden hose and the heater core aswel. I even went one step further by before replacing the water pump I started the engine and kept it running it for about 5 minutes with the garden hose hooked up and the radiator removed flushed out everything till water ran clear. Then I put new radiator water pump thermostat and both hoses. Preventive maintenance is the best for these cars. I recommend changing the radiator every 100000km because the trans oil cooler is incorporated into the radiator and if you see a milkshake you know your transmission is probably going to stuff up.
Nicely timed video as I'm about to do the same job on my FPV F6. I've actually bought a new PWR all aluminium radiator, new silicone hoses and yes, I got a new header tank (Dayco also) as everything else was new so why not!
Cool, replacing the radiator shouldn't be that much more difficult. I'm very happy with the Dayco tank so far, hopefully it holds up well over time. I was tempted to try and file off the little Dayco logo they have on top, but didn't want to risk wrecking it.
@@MotoringBoxTV Yeah it's quite straight forward. I have replaced a standard one previously (horrible skinny thing with plastic tanks, still can't believe FPV could keep something like this on such a vehicle. It works but...). This PWR unit is 4 core and will be able to keep temps much more consistent with the warmer weather. The radiator in my case has much work to do as the cooling circuit on the F6 includes an oil and transmission (ZF) heat exchabger.
The dreaded ford coolant bottles. I have never seen a clean one 😂. The cleanest I ever got one was by using washing powder to get the flakes of coolant and rusty coloured water out. Definitely the worst design for cleaning ever made especially in e-series falcons with the 3 tiny water passages limiting the ability to clean them.
Great video. I literally only replaced the thermostat and coolant in my AU GHIA last week, I was hoping to get the heaters working a bit better but sadly no luck with the heaters.
I do recall way back when I did a coolant flush on my AUII Fairmont that there was a quick-connect underneath the rear of the engine where you could disconnect it using pliers by squeezing two tabs and a garden hose would simply plug into one end... Then you just need to point the other loose end into a bucket and get the missus to crack open the tap!!! Not sure if Ford carried the same cooling setup over to the Barra (I never got to service our SY Territory as it was under warranty) but it was a brilliant feature!!?👌 Once again mate, keep up the great content of you vids!!!👍
I always run the engine for a good while with the heater on fully open so that it always mixes after I do a coolant flush, then obviously recheck the level..
If it is an original radiator the that falcon there will be a drain plug. They're either under the fan shroud facing the engine or on the very bottom facing down if so there will be a hole in the lower radiator support bar.
Hi Sean. Another great video. Hey mate those coolant reservoirs can be cleaned. Have a look at some TH-cam videos and then make one of your own. I've seen them being done on the el/nl falcon fairlane ones and they came up amazing. If you get the time would like you to do a video on cleaning yours. Keep up the great work. Cheers.
Thanks for the comment Marcus. Although it wasn't shown in the video, I examined the old tank and found the plastic hose connection points were all swollen and heat cracked after everything they've been through over the years. So mine went straight in the bin, but even if the old tank looks okay.. new ones are quite cheap? So I think it makes more sense to replace?
Looks really decent. lot better than high pressure near electronics. The difference between green and red is the green is considered standard and the red superior longer life. They use different base chemicals. I don't recall the chemicals used. You'll probably find Dayco are the manufacturers of the original.
Good Job....!! My reservoir is identical and it looks a bit yellow and cracked in places and I’m worried it’s gonna spring a leak under pressure so I think I’ll be following your lead on changing that really soon
Yes it's worth doing. My old one actually had heaps of little cracks around the hose connection points, so it was only a matter of time before one or more of them broke off.
Finally did mine for the first time on an BA XR6 NA and with the new reservoir and thermostat. Was actually really fun to do. Looks so much better with a white res instead of a yellow one. (brought the car 4 or so years ago and just filled it to cold max with tap water mixed with whatever coolant was in there before.) Was so close to also turbo charging the bugger using your videos but prices went up due to covid and stupid people trying to sell the stuff for outrageous prices ($11,000 for a ba xr6 turbo!!)
Oh yeah it the coil pack, had the same issue with misfires at idle. Could also be other things but you can start there. I used an ignition tester to check if it fires at 30KV, anything less is probably weak spark ⚡️ 😄
I did mine today, I had everything except the upper and lower radiator hoses . That's what needed to be done. It seem the previous owner was really cheap. Must be the same hoses from New 2006 all crackly inside .I flushed the heater core too , it needed it . But you know when you tinker with cars there's always something else needs attention.
I'm looking forward to the misfire episode. The consensus would point to a coil or plug - it still could be anything. When I had a coil fail, it failed hard - money light flashing, engine spluttering, throttle ignored; then it shut the whole gig down. Best outcome is the plugs/coils, it's a joyous occasion when it's not something more sinister.
I had a ba xls which had a miss on idle, it was a coil pack, the owner i bought my car off had washed the engine bay and wet the packs, easily fixed in my case $600 😒
Great video mate. Small tip for changing plugs in future, use a combination of 1/4 and 3/8 with adaptor as well to remove and replace cylinder 6 plug. You won't get anywhere with 1/2 inch as its too big and the firewall sits slightly above plug hole making it a pain.
Some cars with aluminium radiators will recommend red juice, older brass radiators with cast blocks will recommend green. This is not always consistent with models and manufactures do update their recommendation for modern coolant (Toyota red coolant). The most important thing is to never mix it red and green. It's gotta be one or the other. Chemical reactions happen and it sludges up. So long as it's not straight water from the tap or blend of everything, happy days.
I wish that Ford of North America would return to some straight six engines. I’ve had about 15 300-6 engines in various F150’s and an F250HD. A straight six is better balanced, easier to work on and only has one head.
All falcon coolant reservoirs go that colour, turbo or other wise. I had a 2010 FG XR6 with under 100k, exactly the same, and the BA/BF's I had as company cars did it as well. Suggestion for the future: change out the power steering pump, they're rubbish and if it's not whirring now it will eventually lol. Front rotors and pads as well, also rubbish and you'll avoid getting the dreaded high speed brake wobbles, most unnerving at 100k. Both easy jobs 😉 and well worth the investment.
I've built a couple of xr6turbos. Check the powersteering switch, intake manifold gasket (spray carby cleaner around the gasket), PCV, TPS or dirty throttle body. Let us know what you come up with.
Well explained and produced vid as usual mate. Going back through vids as I now sit behind the wheel of an F6 😃 I think the reservoirs turn yellow/orange Because of the steel block, the water galleries would be rusty
Check the throttle body and plenum chamber for gunk that can cause a missfire at idle as well. Use a intake cleaner, I like to use the nulon foaming intake cleaner it works great, it's at supercheap auto. You can try the motocraft stuff that they sell at ford but if you get a wiff of it accidentally it'll make you want to hurl, it's mostly amonia.
It'll be the throttle body (it needs a good clean) same thing has happened to 3 of my falcons.. did the coils and spark plugs and had the same issue, cleaned the throttle body and BAM.. problem gone.
The colour means nothing read the label as to what style of coolant it is also check your owners manual as to what style your vehicle requires. The other item to consider is the new coolant compatible with your existing coolant thus checking the type of coolant
Ford Bloke the colour is just a dye if you look at two major brands of OAT coolants Caltex is red Castrol is green very similar products both use the same technology different additive manufacturers both ethylene glycol, manufactures use different colours to make a marketing difference if you wish to check ring one of the major blenders / manufacturers the biggest is in Brisbane
Just a little piece of advice, as your replacing coils and spark plugs clean out the intake throttle body and replace the fuel filter for peace of mind.. great vid
FYI even with the gasket, coolant may still leak from the thermostat housing (as it did on my BF). Get some RTV gasket maker on the mating surfaces if it does (hopefully shouldn't!)
Mine did the same thing, when I changed the thermostat over I didn't put on waterproof sealant on and the gasket dislodged and got pumped into radiator and had to replace it again and use gasket maker or waterproof sealant to re do it again and hasn't leaked since. The repair manual says its required to use waterproof sealant on the gasket.
I've had the same issue of miss fire on my BA ute thats now done 386000 kms! how kms has this car done? As well as your coil packs or sparks plugs it can also be the rocket cover gasket and o-rings could be worn causing the engine oil to leak into the spark plug cavity. If that happens it can also cause a misfire as spring from the coil pack won't contact the spark plug top tip! You will soon know when you remove the coil packs if its saturated in engine oil then the gasket o-rings are stuffed.
nice job. re: idle misfire, check for a vac leak on intake manifold side ist. i did exactly what u are about to do on both a 05 territory and xh ute both 6's and wasted a ton of cash on plugs coil and leads , and plugs + coil packs respectively. both engines had intake vac leaks on 1 and 2. when spraying carby cleaner in those areas u could hear just a slight change of idle on borh engines in the offending cylinders. tryed to tighten them up but a chunk of old gasket must have popped out sometime ago. old intake gasket out literally came out in chunks, new one in and both motors run like champs now. barra was a real bitch to do in place. ps dont use gasket goo on i/g. and tighten from cyl 3/4 outwards. also retighten after a few heat cycles as all my bolts loosened up some. if u take top of the broadband manifolds u can get easier access to bolts but will need to replace bbm gasket. just my 2 cents worth.
Thanks for the heart on my last comment. I actually am trying to locate the heater tap in my wifes BA Falcon. I have changed heater taps in e series many times before, so I thought this would be easy. I am unable to locate the heater tap myself, my useless Haynes manual doesn't list it and I see no mention of the location of the heater tap on the internet. I can't replace what I can't see. Do you happen to know where I can find the heater tap? Cheers.
Supercheap really need to jump on board and sponsor some of your videos
Somehow this chap can make the mundane task of changing engine coolant interesting.
Bravo old chap, propper job.
Good job mate , quality content as usual
Bloody good job Mate, no need to flush a clean engine 👍
Nice 👍 I’ve done oil changes and brakes and a few other bits and pieces over the years. Your how to videos are filling me with confidence to tackle some of the other jobs... 🙂
The New coolant reservoir, looks really on to it. I love Nulon products, they seem to punch above there weight. Nice and real tidy, in the engi e bay. With good a clean already done a few weeks ago. I watched the cleaning vid, the tyre foam is a useful revelation.👍
Absolutely brilliant! I love your videos and cars👏👏👏👏
Better to premix the coolant in case there is coolant left in the system, so that the mix ratios is spot on. Also when putting the clamps back place them on the same spot for a good fit. If the hose is hard to re-insert dip it in boiling water. Works a treat!
great video as always mate keep up the great content! 🍻🍻
Cheers from Czech Republic, love your videos
Having just gotten a BF Mk2 Xr6 Turbo, seeing you work on yours is super interesting and educational, thanks for the great videos mate 👍
Very keen to see the spark plugs and coil packs being done. I plan to do the same on my FG Turbo which looks to have very similar KMs to yours.
Same. That back plug is a bitch.
Well presented almost professional video , well done . I had my cooling system flushed out a few months ago , I noticed in the Ford Falcon BA repair manual it says the cooling system takes around 12.5 litres but my mechanic said they only take around 8 litres🤔. I would have flushed it out my self by removing the bottom heater hoses on the block to get as much of the old coolant out as possible like the repair manual says but I have no room at my place to do it . I attempted to change the coil packs and spark plugs myself unsuccessfully I might add because I just couldn’t get that back valve cover but off , just as well too because when I took it to my mechanic he got the air hose to clean out around the spark plugs before removing them , mate you should have seen the dirt and getting blown out around the coil packs , I couldn’t believe how much shit blew out . If I had been successful and gotten to the stage of removing the sparks plugs I hate to think of the grit and dirt that would have fallen into the cylinder. Warning to all those that want to change their spark plugs at home , blow out all the dirt around your spark plugs with an air hose or with a few cans compressed of air .
Yet again another great MotoringBox vid!
Keep it up brother!
I have cleaned up an expansion tank previously by soaking in nappy wash and putting some metal washers in it and shaking it to loosen the crud inside. Improves them but nothing like a new one if you can get them.
* In a narky voice * “You didn’t flush the heater core”.
How would you go about flushing heater core 🤔
The coolant bottle should last nearly a year until it discolours. Save the old one & clean it up as spare parts are getting harder to find these days. Even if you don't clean it & just store it, you know you have it spare when needed.
As Sam D suggested, iridium spark plugs are the go.
Again another great video that's easy to follow for those with little mechanical experience. 👍
I did this and a new radiator a few weeks ago funnily enough! The new coolant tank is a thing of beauty 😂
Just a tip to get to the rear spark plug when you do it, once you crack the plug's seal and loosen with your sockets and a couple of short extensions its useful to pull the plug out (and possibly your spark plug socket) with a piece of rubber hose. If you get stuck one of the coolant return hoses to the coolant reservoir fits perfectly inside the 1/2 inch socket drive and around the spark plug itself and worked a treat to do mine.
I've seen a technique used on yellowing plastics, mainly computer parts to bring them back from yellowing. Its called Retrobriting, basically immersion the part in a peroxide/water mix and exposing the part to UV light. Would be cool to see if you can get it to work on that expansion tank.
Great insight Sean, thanks again. I was talking to my mechanic and asked him why some coolants are green, red etc, and what the difference in colours were, and he said there's no reason other than aesthetics. Dunno, some people may think otherwise but. Some people even match their rocker cover up with their coolant colour! :)
I remember doing this on my ef Fairmont a few times. Infinitely more easy than my e39 with the high pressure, bleed requiring system.
Was actually hoping you’d do this video next. Thanks!
Always found when doing coolant change that the recommended liters to refill were always less as there is always coolant left in system .The last time i did coolant change on BF falcon mk3 after flushing system i used a vacuum cleaner which blows an sucks using the blow mode i was able to blow all the coolant left in system out of engine an radiator as well as heater core just insert vacuum hose into top radiator hose and blow back through radiator with bottom hose undone then reattach thermostat housing without thermostat in an connect top radiator hose will need to unattach from radiator then blow out system.system then takes exactly the recommended liters of coolant so your not mixing old coolant with new .ps you can buy a ozito vacuum cleaner from Bunnings for around $40:00.which is what i used . keep your hands on the wheel an your eyes upon the road 🎣👽
Thats a good idea i never thought of that. I start the engine when the coolant is draining if possible so the water pump can just pump it all out.
Slovenia watching. Great video as usual.👍
You get barra's in Slovenia ?
@@lunch2102 No. Here we have only German crap.
No legendary Barra. I think there is none in Europe at all.
@@lunch2102 But I do have three cousins in Melbourne.😁
👍🏼 it's a great place to live ( maybe not at the moment 😂 )
its cool to see people from across the world admire our lil Aussie engines
5:27 someone outside ripping a skid 😂
Awesome mate.
Thank you.
Absolutely love your videos mate. Clean camera work, good quality and top notch keep it up. Look forward to seeing new vids in the sub box
Best presentation of all time
Hot tip... reconnect the bottom hose and direct the top hose down to the ground and run the car with heater core on. (With your garden hose running through the thermostat housing)
You'll flush the entire system, heater core and radiator all at once.
Also, undo the hoses in and out of the automatic trans cooler and flush and drain through them. They are at the lowest point in the system apart from the radiator petcock.
Great video, actually helped unlike some you always make it easy to understand.
Good vid. Always like to change fluids, oil,auto, brake,steering, cooling good insurance.
Subscribed. Your videos are great man, keep it up.
Loving the content, keep up the awesome work.
Just a suggestion for when you do the coils and spark plugs, get a set of ngk iridium or laser iridium plugs. I have them installed in all my vehicles, and you will notice the difference, it gives you a little extra power and they last a long time, ive clocked over 100000kms on my vn with iridium plugs and each service I've inspected them and each time they look like new, no corroding, the gap hasn't changed, they are definantly worth it
R35 GTR coils are a very good upgrade also, did it on my Supra
Just use the Ford/Motocraft/Denso ones, about $40 for a set where as the NGK’s are a lot more dollars. Iridium work not much better they are just longer lived. Change the plugs before you burn out the coil packs.
I'm keen to see how the plastic comes out after a clean. You've probably already had a look into different ways to do this but just in case you're still researching, the retro gaming community are pros with this as all of the white, clear and grey components have changed colour over time. I believe they refer to their processes as "retrobrite".
Great video. Listing parts, materials used was really helpful. Many thanks
Barra came with green due to the metal bottom end. Red is for all alloy engines.
Supercheap recommended both... I guess it mustn't hurt it that much.
@@MotoringBoxTV Just searched Nulon lube guide. Recommended Nulon One coolant (universal 10 year) or Nulon Green.
@@nunika1975 not sure what you're searching for - when I put in my XR6T's details Nulon recommends yellow or red. Not all red coolants are the same and I'm going to film a video in the future explaining why.
Good job 👍
Check coil packs for misfire.
Also make sure to throw silicone spray into the boost solenoid (down below the coolant bottle). Dont use WD40 as it fucks the rubber in it
Yeah I agree, coil packs will fix it for sure
Dis the BA have the cCam Phasers (honestly cant remember- i know early models didnt), because if you are getting a miss, the seals on the phasers can leak, and fill No 1 & 2 spark plug wells with oil, shorting out the coil.
It amazes me how the BA falcons don't overheat in summer traffic. In the old days, traffic was a no-go zone for the mighty cleveland.
So far so good. I believe my old thermostat might have been an 82c because my engine runs hotter now - with the 91c thermostat. But from what I can tell this is the temperature Ford intended them to run at, and it consistently holds that temp even in traffic.
Coil packs are always the annoying issue with falcons, good job on the Barra 👍
The coil packs in my 2009 G6E-T are now 12 years old and have 205,000km on them - still working fine. At this point if I have to replace them all, I'm hardly going to feel hard done by.
Just use genuine coils & put hi temp anti seize on the outside of the coil boot & dielectric grease on the inside to help get the bastards out of the hole & off the plugs when you have to replace next time .
Haha red because it matches the rocker cover.
Interesting, quirky, Entertaining and informative. Thanks
Good content I've been curious about flushing mine out and this was the perfect video thanks and keep up the good stuff 🙂
I have heard a old school way of cleaning the coolant overflow plastic tank by putting 2-4 denture cleaning tablets and they can bring all the film out of the tank
Good tutorial..
Consider cleaning the old reservoir with the tyre shine? 😉
Great video as always bro. My mate had a BA XR6T ute with the same dramas, only he had just replaced his coil packs a week before he had the misfiring issues, so even brand new ones can be crap (he took them back to Repco, but they mucked him around with replacement saying they had to send the old ones back to be tested before giving him a new set). It turned out the coil pack was actually firing, but the stem down to the plugs were faulty on 2 of them. Vehicle was off the road for about a week. It always pays to keep the receipt. Keep up the great work mate. Looking forward to the next video. 👌
My ba had a very dirty cooling system due to the previous stupid owner mixing coolant. The cause was a mud like substance in the system. I drained the system when it was cold. The removed the thermostat water pump and radiator. I flushed the block out with a garden hose and the heater core aswel. I even went one step further by before replacing the water pump I started the engine and kept it running it for about 5 minutes with the garden hose hooked up and the radiator removed flushed out everything till water ran clear. Then I put new radiator water pump thermostat and both hoses. Preventive maintenance is the best for these cars. I recommend changing the radiator every 100000km because the trans oil cooler is incorporated into the radiator and if you see a milkshake you know your transmission is probably going to stuff up.
Sounds like the coil packs i had a r33 Nissan skyline that ran a bit shit at idle and that's what fixed it
Nicely timed video as I'm about to do the same job on my FPV F6. I've actually bought a new PWR all aluminium radiator, new silicone hoses and yes, I got a new header tank (Dayco also) as everything else was new so why not!
Excellent vehicle
@@AdamAus85 Thanks mate. Really enjoying your content, keep it up! 😃
Had Tornado No 20 for a number of years (needed more than 2 seats- damn kids!)
Cool, replacing the radiator shouldn't be that much more difficult. I'm very happy with the Dayco tank so far, hopefully it holds up well over time. I was tempted to try and file off the little Dayco logo they have on top, but didn't want to risk wrecking it.
@@MotoringBoxTV Yeah it's quite straight forward. I have replaced a standard one previously (horrible skinny thing with plastic tanks, still can't believe FPV could keep something like this on such a vehicle. It works but...). This PWR unit is 4 core and will be able to keep temps much more consistent with the warmer weather. The radiator in my case has much work to do as the cooling circuit on the F6 includes an oil and transmission (ZF) heat exchabger.
Hello Motoring!
The dreaded ford coolant bottles. I have never seen a clean one 😂. The cleanest I ever got one was by using washing powder to get the flakes of coolant and rusty coloured water out. Definitely the worst design for cleaning ever made especially in e-series falcons with the 3 tiny water passages limiting the ability to clean them.
E series Falcons are a nightmare for this. One day I’ll clean the one in my EB II
Tried cleaning mine today. Impossible. The couple has stained through. Put a new aftermarket product. How can we prevent it from stains again?
Cool I’m due on my BA 2007 MK11 Turbo
Great video.
I literally only replaced the thermostat and coolant in my AU GHIA last week, I was hoping to get the heaters working a bit better but sadly no luck with the heaters.
Will be the heater tap ... not expensive but a akward job to do.
Same problem. Heater on my ford EL is never hot
I do recall way back when I did a coolant flush on my AUII Fairmont that there was a quick-connect underneath the rear of the engine where you could disconnect it using pliers by squeezing two tabs and a garden hose would simply plug into one end... Then you just need to point the other loose end into a bucket and get the missus to crack open the tap!!!
Not sure if Ford carried the same cooling setup over to the Barra (I never got to service our SY Territory as it was under warranty) but it was a brilliant feature!!?👌
Once again mate, keep up the great content of you vids!!!👍
Also change out the intake manifold gasket ,quite common part that goes on them
Yes mine went in 2014. Ran terribly. Felt like a great bit dirty flat spot at 2,000rpm
I always run the engine for a good while with the heater on fully open so that it always mixes after I do a coolant flush, then obviously recheck the level..
If it is an original radiator the that falcon there will be a drain plug. They're either under the fan shroud facing the engine or on the very bottom facing down if so there will be a hole in the lower radiator support bar.
Brendan Casey not true on the XR6 Turbos , the Standard BA sixes and the XR6 had a drain plug but not the XR6 Turbos and for good reason
Hi Sean. Another great video. Hey mate those coolant reservoirs can be cleaned. Have a look at some TH-cam videos and then make one of your own. I've seen them being done on the el/nl falcon fairlane ones and they came up amazing. If you get the time would like you to do a video on cleaning yours. Keep up the great work. Cheers.
Thanks for the comment Marcus. Although it wasn't shown in the video, I examined the old tank and found the plastic hose connection points were all swollen and heat cracked after everything they've been through over the years. So mine went straight in the bin, but even if the old tank looks okay.. new ones are quite cheap? So I think it makes more sense to replace?
Looks really decent. lot better than high pressure near electronics. The difference between green and red is the green is considered standard and the red superior longer life. They use different base chemicals. I don't recall the chemicals used. You'll probably find Dayco are the manufacturers of the original.
liked, subscribed and commented
Good Job....!!
My reservoir is identical and it looks a bit yellow and cracked in places and I’m worried it’s gonna spring a leak under pressure so I think I’ll be following your lead on changing that really soon
Yes it's worth doing. My old one actually had heaps of little cracks around the hose connection points, so it was only a matter of time before one or more of them broke off.
Finally did mine for the first time on an BA XR6 NA and with the new reservoir and thermostat. Was actually really fun to do. Looks so much better with a white res instead of a yellow one. (brought the car 4 or so years ago and just filled it to cold max with tap water mixed with whatever coolant was in there before.)
Was so close to also turbo charging the bugger using your videos but prices went up due to covid and stupid people trying to sell the stuff for outrageous prices ($11,000 for a ba xr6 turbo!!)
It's a satisfying job for sure!
Top notch mate!
Oh yeah it the coil pack, had the same issue with misfires at idle. Could also be other things but you can start there. I used an ignition tester to check if it fires at 30KV, anything less is probably weak spark ⚡️ 😄
I did mine today, I had everything except the upper and lower radiator hoses . That's what needed to be done. It seem the previous owner was really cheap. Must be the same hoses from New 2006 all crackly inside .I flushed the heater core too , it needed it . But you know when you tinker with cars there's always something else needs attention.
Yup, not wrong...
I'm looking forward to the misfire episode. The consensus would point to a coil or plug - it still could be anything. When I had a coil fail, it failed hard - money light flashing, engine spluttering, throttle ignored; then it shut the whole gig down. Best outcome is the plugs/coils, it's a joyous occasion when it's not something more sinister.
I had a ba xls which had a miss on idle, it was a coil pack, the owner i bought my car off had washed the engine bay and wet the packs, easily fixed in my case $600 😒
Looks great with the new reservoir. I see you stripped the stickers off the battery for a cleaner look!
I just gave you a like to give you total 1000 likes
Do a skid in your turbo Barra!
Great job mate! Quality content and production as always! Thank you! :-)
Great video mate. Small tip for changing plugs in future, use a combination of 1/4 and 3/8 with adaptor as well to remove and replace cylinder 6 plug. You won't get anywhere with 1/2 inch as its too big and the firewall sits slightly above plug hole making it a pain.
I have a collection of partially complete socket sets of both types, so hopefully I can find a combination that works!
Is it ok to just use tap water with the radiator cleaning liquid to drive around in or should it be demineralised?
Some cars with aluminium radiators will recommend red juice, older brass radiators with cast blocks will recommend green. This is not always consistent with models and manufactures do update their recommendation for modern coolant (Toyota red coolant). The most important thing is to never mix it red and green. It's gotta be one or the other. Chemical reactions happen and it sludges up. So long as it's not straight water from the tap or blend of everything, happy days.
Awesome tips there, need to change my coolant in my territory.
I wish that Ford of North America would return to some straight six engines. I’ve had about 15 300-6 engines in various F150’s and an F250HD. A straight six is better balanced, easier to work on and only has one head.
Spose you couldnt tell me where to find the heater tap?
All falcon coolant reservoirs go that colour, turbo or other wise. I had a 2010 FG XR6 with under 100k, exactly the same, and the BA/BF's I had as company cars did it as well. Suggestion for the future: change out the power steering pump, they're rubbish and if it's not whirring now it will eventually lol. Front rotors and pads as well, also rubbish and you'll avoid getting the dreaded high speed brake wobbles, most unnerving at 100k. Both easy jobs 😉 and well worth the investment.
I've built a couple of xr6turbos. Check the powersteering switch, intake manifold gasket (spray carby cleaner around the gasket), PCV, TPS or dirty throttle body. Let us know what you come up with.
Well explained and produced vid as usual mate. Going back through vids as I now sit behind the wheel of an F6 😃 I think the reservoirs turn yellow/orange Because of the steel block, the water galleries would be rusty
Check the throttle body and plenum chamber for gunk that can cause a missfire at idle as well. Use a intake cleaner, I like to use the nulon foaming intake cleaner it works great, it's at supercheap auto. You can try the motocraft stuff that they sell at ford but if you get a wiff of it accidentally it'll make you want to hurl, it's mostly amonia.
It'll be the throttle body (it needs a good clean) same thing has happened to 3 of my falcons.. did the coils and spark plugs and had the same issue, cleaned the throttle body and BAM.. problem gone.
the overflow bottle in my 98 fairmont is the same yellow as well
Green in falcons...... Red is for alloy engines such as the ls1.
The red coolant is chemically different and is specifically for aluminium radiators.
The colour means nothing read the label as to what style of coolant it is also check your owners manual as to what style your vehicle requires. The other item to consider is the new coolant compatible with your existing coolant thus checking the type of coolant
Stuart XR6T , the colour does mean something! That’s why they’re different colours!
Ford Bloke the colour is just a dye if you look at two major brands of OAT coolants Caltex is red Castrol is green very similar products both use the same technology different additive manufacturers both ethylene glycol, manufactures use different colours to make a marketing difference if you wish to check ring one of the major blenders / manufacturers the biggest is in Brisbane
Stuart XR6T , ok!
@@fordbloke4790 Mine is clear, like water.
mine just bust a hose and pissed everywhere, that was a pretty good time haha
Coil pack, plugs, ignition leads sure to resolve your hesitation issue.
Now i want axr6 turbo.
Just a little piece of advice, as your replacing coils and spark plugs clean out the intake throttle body and replace the fuel filter for peace of mind.. great vid
When I was cleaning the engine I gave the throttle body a quick wipe, I'll definitely have a closer look at it though.
when flushing the system i have found it better to perform a reverse flush. running water in the opposite direction to the direction of flow.
Suppose to b looking up how to install a timber blind
Enjoy that power when the new clutch comes love the car, and maybe consider running her on 98. cheers James.
Already do, always!
A better tutorial than the tissue box 😉
FYI even with the gasket, coolant may still leak from the thermostat housing (as it did on my BF). Get some RTV gasket maker on the mating surfaces if it does (hopefully shouldn't!)
All good so far!
Mine did the same thing, when I changed the thermostat over I didn't put on waterproof sealant on and the gasket dislodged and got pumped into radiator and had to replace it again and use gasket maker or waterproof sealant to re do it again and hasn't leaked since. The repair manual says its required to use waterproof sealant on the gasket.
Was there any air locks? if you do you can hear the bubbles circulating through the system.
I've had the same issue of miss fire on my BA ute thats now done 386000 kms! how kms has this car done? As well as your coil packs or sparks plugs it can also be the rocket cover gasket and o-rings could be worn causing the engine oil to leak into the spark plug cavity. If that happens it can also cause a misfire as spring from the coil pack won't contact the spark plug top tip! You will soon know when you remove the coil packs if its saturated in engine oil then the gasket o-rings are stuffed.
nice job. re: idle misfire, check for a vac leak on intake manifold side ist.
i did exactly what u are about to do on both a 05 territory and xh ute both 6's and wasted a ton of cash on plugs coil and leads , and plugs + coil packs respectively. both engines had intake vac leaks on 1 and 2. when spraying carby cleaner in those areas u could hear just a slight change of idle on borh engines in the offending cylinders. tryed to tighten them up but a chunk of old gasket must have popped out sometime ago. old intake gasket out literally came out in chunks, new one in and both motors run like champs now. barra was a real bitch to do in place. ps dont use gasket goo on i/g. and tighten from cyl 3/4 outwards. also retighten after a few heat cycles as all my bolts loosened up some. if u take top of the broadband manifolds u can get easier access to bolts but will need to replace bbm gasket. just my 2 cents worth.
Thanks for the heart on my last comment. I actually am trying to locate the heater tap in my wifes BA Falcon. I have changed heater taps in e series many times before, so I thought this would be easy. I am unable to locate the heater tap myself, my useless Haynes manual doesn't list it and I see no mention of the location of the heater tap on the internet. I can't replace what I can't see. Do you happen to know where I can find the heater tap? Cheers.
I've not had to look for it sorry. I believe it's different to the AU and E-Series though.
Thanks for replying. It is a complete mystery.
keep that maintenance up for when you sell that XR6T to me!! XD