Followed your videos about the Taurus no heat issues. New thermostat, flush, and installed my new heater core. Now it's piping hot and ready for the Wisconsin winter. Thank you so much for taking the time to help people like me out. Be safe out there.
Dude you are the best. The Mechanic told me I had a blown Head Gasket due to a Coolant Leak that LOOKED to be coming from the Head Gasket. I saw your posted video and realized ( Like your video ) the leak was coming from the Coolant Port that passes through the Timing Chain Cover. I'm no Mechanic but I successfully changed the Timing Chain Cover Gasket following the steps from your video. I Just wanted to say, THANKS !!! YOU SAVED ME ALOT OF MONEY!!! Now I have to replace the Heater Core. I will once again follow your instructions. Hope I'm successful.
My Name is Jerry, I have a 2002 Ford Taurus SES. First, I want to thank you for taking the time to create this video. I have wanted to create videos like this myself, but each time I start a job, I just do the job and complete it. So I know it takes time and motivation to want to help someone else. Second, if you send me a Paypal e-mail, I will be happy to buy you lunch or dinner on me, your video saved me over $600 bucks as quoted by 2 shops in town. As my father said many times, "Money talks, and BS walks. I mean it, this video gave me the confidence that I could do this, and save my family a huge repair bill !! Next, I would like to add a few caveats to maybe help the next person inspired to repair their Taurus with this problem. Of Course, Don't forget to always DISCONNECT BOTH Battery Terminals before working on your vehicle. The guy who commented earlier about the center console is absolutely correct. 1. If you have a center console, your will need to at the very least try to disconnect the dash vent which leads to the rear heat. removing the center console is more work but will keep things from getting broken. I had 2 other guys help, which really helped. 2. The dash will not slide back so easily, I did have to remove all 4 dash bolts in order to pull it away from the firewall. Also, don't get to aggressive when pulling the dash away on the driver side, the wires and connectors are short. Probably 1 reason he wanted to leave that upper left side bolt in place. 3. The heater controls are "Super brittle" and since you will not have complete and open access the plastic retainer in front of the lever will probably undoubtedly break, so be prepared to use a c clip to so other method to keep that silver lever from coming off (this was not a disaster just took more time. 4. I did break my hood release plastic by sitting the dash on it (without knowing) It still works, now, it just hangs there. 5. Removing the hoses from the heater core is a tough job. Mine were leaking really bad and had to be yanked out. 6. The cost of the heater core was $57.00, The Anti-freeze was about $30. I also bought a couple of hose clamps. And of course the items mentioned in the The total repair, a little over $100.00. Labor for me was about 6-8 hours. The professionals quoted 5 hours. The procedure did work, I have heat again, and was happy to trade my Saturday for the $600 +. CarCleaningNJ@gmail.com JYNorflet th-cam.com/video/Z6b1GaRQAJY/w-d-xo.html
I just want to say thank you for posting this video! It was dead on! Installation of the new heater core want very smoothly. And like Scott, I didn't swear or throw a single wrench! It went that smooth. Instead of removing the old heater hose assembly, I decided to replace it completely, I got the assembly at amazon for $64.00 Ford equipment (spend the extra $10 or so, don`t buy the cheap one). I loosened the assembly at the 2 mounting points and then removed the line from the passenger side (clamp and hose) and the line below the thermostat housing (clamp and hose. I then cut the lines away from the core and removed the old assembly. It made it a lot easier to remove the clamps from the core. After I removed the clamps I then cut the hoses off the core via box cutter and they came off super easy (peeled right off). Upon replacing, if you take the heater core clamp on the passenger side and angle it up towards the 12 o clock position and the heater core clamp on the drivers side to the 3 o clock position its a piece of cake to walk the clamps back on with a pair of channel locks. It will also help in the future if you ever need to remove them to back flush the heater core. Total time to completely flush system, do the install like video, including new hose assembly, 5 hours, and I was in no rush. Total amount of money saved $550.00. Again, thank you for posting this video. Very helpful and then some!!!!!!
I did this too a very improperly and before the core was figured to be the culprit! Uhg. Wish I had my recent post "Remove Heater Hoses QUICKLY". I had the privilege of doing it the new easier way. Sharing incase you help a friend.
My Daughters Taurus had the same condition. I was going to have her take it to a mechanic after looking at the procedure in the motor manual. After watching this video, I decided that I could do this for her. This video is SPOT ON with his description, It took me about 10-15 minutes to do all this. Every step is perfectly explained. Thank you for posting this.
That is so awesome to hear! I hope you followed my rusty coolant flush procedure too. Good to hear this kind of feedback especially with this cold snap right now.
Great video. I watched it twice before tearing into mine and it was nearly flawless. Everything happened just as you showed here. Very Easy to understand. I was a bit intimidated by this project, but watching this gave me a lot of confidence. Thanks a bunch.
My girlfriend has this same car, her heater happened to stop working last week, checked it, and it was all kinds of gunked up... found this video, super easy! Got her all fixed up, now she can practically roast a steak on those vents haha. Thanks man!
Today I followed your video step by step and BINGO! It went pretty smoothly, mind you, I'VE NEVER CHANGED ANYTHING IN A CAR!!! I did forget one thing, to flush it all out before starting the whole thing but I figure it will take YEARS until it the brand new piece clogs up again. THANK YOU, THANK YOU and THANK YOU. I saved about $500 .
Repetition creates magic. Replace a radiator on a 2007 Taurus the first time and it's a bitch, but do it 199 more times and to the novice, you look like a genius.
I have to say this video saved the day!!! The details were perfect and clear. The job really wasn't that bad except for 2 things I would add. No. 1, my steering shaft did not come apart as easy as yours did. I had to take a straight blade screwdriver between the two parts of the shaft and wiggle them apart. When I put them back together I used a large pair of channel lock pliers to squeeze them back together so the shaft bolt would fit. It turned out pretty nice. No. 2 was the hard part and actually took the longest. The flipping hose clamps man!!! OMG I spent forever to no avail trying to get them off so I went to AutoZone to see if there was a special tool. There was and it cost me $35, but it was money well spent. Once I figured out how to use them I kicked myself for not having it in the first place! Thanks again brother! Saved me $$$!!! Here's a link for anyone wondering what the hose clamp removal tool looks like: www.amazon.com/OTC-4525-Cable-Type-Flexible-Pliers/dp/B000F5JM0O
This excellent video deserves to be the most viewed and highly rated off all heater core replacements. I've seen them ALL, over and over, including the one that's "fast" and has over 1.6 M views. The filming on this is outstanding, as is the narration. I still may take the fast route because I want to minimize the number of things I could screw up by removing the whole dash... plus I'm lazy. But I highly recommend seeing this before you replace your heater core. Thanks for the time and effort you put into this, FordTechMakuloco.
Well...I did it! I followed your complete "No Heat" process. I am stunned how easy it was to remove the dash. Everything went according to your video...except maybe I had to remove the door sill cover in order to remove the weather-stripping. I removed the air cleaner snorkle/assembly and trans dip stick to get better access to the heater hose connections. Had a stubborn leak on the heater hose but cranked down on the clamp and it went away. Heat is a good thing!
I have a 1999 Taurus. I wouldn't have tried without this video. Thanks a bunch! My actuator in front of core had 4 screws and no linkage. Other than that and my time saving tip below this is awesome! Again Thanks. I did have to replace a Tee in my hoses; ended up using 1/2 copper pluming Tee with two 45 degree Street connections I soldered to give a landing for the end clamps. Otherwise it's too tight with out the street pieces one clamp will most likely fall off as mine did-- loss of coolant not worth the hassle.
This is a well done and informative video. I would have thought the steering column would need to be removed, but I see that you were able to leave it in place. Excellent advice to replace the coolant reservoir rather than fighting a losing battle cleaning it out.
A huge thanks for your video. Just did a heater core on a friends daughters car this morning and with the help of this video, it went so smooth I don't think I swore even once. The hoses were kind of a pain but when my buddy hooked me up with his new hose clamp tool which basically is a pair of pliars with a cable and a slide jaw at the end, they came off within 2-3 minutes. As far as this video though, it's spot on to a tee. Four plugs and the steering shaft and the 7 bolts that hold the dash and this beast was way easy to get to. 1 1/2 hours and it was done. Thanks a ton brother. And ur 100% right, going through the glovebox seems pretty silly to me when this method is this easy.
Picked up a 2000 Taurus month ago and followed your videos on flushing cooling system and heater core replacement. It was spot on. Now waiting on a video for the ax4n transmission common problems they have. Keep up the great work
I live in New York City. Do you know a mechanic that will flush and clean my heater core system like you? You are the best and professional mechanic online by far. I had my heater core replaced twice. Just like your video warned, one of the mechanics broke the black flap and the linkages just fell off. Not knowing what was done, I found the metal linkage without the spring just lying on the passenger floor. Not knowing where they came from, I just kept it in my glove box. Then bammm, you nailed it, one of the mechanics did a shoddy job. I am now thinking about flushing and cleaning my cooling system and changing the heater core myself. The heater core itself is under warranty from Autozone anyway and its cheap about $65. It's the labor that make you say ouch about $600 - $700. None of the mechanics that butchered my heating system did the repair and cleaning job like you. Congrats you are a Mechanics hit-man! No lol! (347) 414 - 1267.
William Russell Moore No I don't know anyone in NY but I can tell you make sure you do the VC-9 rust flush video before ever attempting this heater core replacement.
I followed your instructions to the T and was successful. I hit a snag because my blend door motor was broken. Also if you could show ways to bleed air pockets out of the 3.0 Vulcan engines, that would be very very helpful. I had to park my car on a steep hill when refilling the antifreeze after the flush. I also broke the linkage flex rertainer piece but I glued it with super glue and baking soda. I saved myself hundreds of dollars on a few hours job and I am no mechanic, thanks to you.
Thanks for this, the dash removal was the part I was dreading when I should have been more worried about the heater core hoses. Those things are rough. I ended up removing the intake manifold so I could get better access.
Yeah, I hated doing the hose replacement wrongly, but those hoses are a 15 minute job with two tools. Read my recent post "Remove Heater Hoses QUICKLY "
Ok I have another issue. I figured out the coolant. This issue is a bit more crucial. To start in order, I broke the bottom plastic piece underneath the actuator (the arm off of the bottom piece). This is in picture #1. I thought maybe it would would without the arm. So I proceeded to reinstall the actuator. Then, I figured out the actuator will not go back to its regular facing. It is tilted to the left since it only goes in one way. I cannot get it to straighten out. When I try to turn it to the right to straighten it, it will not move. I have attached a picture for this as well. It is the second picture. So i tried to use the plastic arm to turn it harder to straighten it out. It still wouldn't go straight. However, with such great pressure, I broke off the plastic arm that you state to rubber band up in the video. I have a picture attached for this as well. It is the 3rd picture. Do you have any advice? Is there anyway I can fix this? These stupid plastic pieces have put an end to the whole repair. Image 1: scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xft1/v/t34.0-12/12647896_10205885496320236_871661516_n.jpg?oh=2ed826e16b4ed66ed2df117d1df1f1d5&oe=56AFA54D Image 2: scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xlt1/v/t34.0-12/12650595_10205885496880250_1545995795_n.jpg?oh=1d50774dd2dd88662a2984f312adc6d9&oe=56AEA263 Image 3: scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xta1/v/t34.0-12/12647778_10205885497360262_405895418_n.jpg?oh=7492a4a16ff0decb0e16200811c46d3a&oe=56AFC6C1 HELP SOMEONE PLEASE!
Idk if you will see this but at around 9:00 in the video that silver bar that’s there is missing in my 2006 Taurus and spring and everything else is there would that silver bar missing cause no heat in the cabin just getting around to wanting the heat and realized is missing
Thank you so much for the well done video guide. I have been putting off pulling the dash to change the core. I've needed to do this for 5 years. I had flushed the system a couple times, and that helped, but now I have real heat instead of lukewarm air.
Excellent. Better than the "cut the metal and barely pull the dash out of the way" technique. Doing this will actually save time in the end and make it easier.
majesticmalfeasance Yes use a needle nose pliers or a small channel locks to remove the clamps and twist them to break the bond with a pair of slip joint pliers just be careful to not ruin the hose and they will slide off.
FordTechMakuloco It was VERY difficult to get to the hose clamps, especially the second one since they are fused together and the first one can't be moved out of the way. Along with that, the space would be cramped for a lilliputian and it's almost impossible to maneuver any kind of tool in there. I finally got it off with a pair of pliers and a crow bar. The entire job took me almost the whole day because of the clamps. Now I have a vacuum problem and all I get is defrost mode, so I'm going to have to remove the dash again and figure out what happened.
Dude thank you SOOO much - I am cooking rt now with 140 degree temp in the air vent. I followed your other video on burping the coolant and that worked well. Toughest part was removing the heater core hose.. I ended up going from the air intake side to remove the top one and then the degas bottle side. I used hose pliers and also a long garden wedge tool along with a wedge to push up against the firewall for leverage. Also I had to take the whole dash off instead of hinge it (1997 model) .
Great video, followed the steps but i do have one question(for anybody that might know)... AT 8:28 in your video, the linkage that goes across the heater core cover/door... mine was already broken and needs replaced. anyone have a idea what the part # is or what its called?
Excellent videos. Why are the techs not cutting the dash assembly factory mount underneath the dash giving access to the heater core. That mount is not used once it leaves the factory but blocks the removal of the core during its replacement.
So to refill the cooling system you fill it with a gallon of gold ford motorcraft and add water to it? How do you get the 70/30 or 60/40 you mentioned thank you
After watching your video here I went to do the heater core on my car a 2002 merc sable with the shifter on the center console. I couldn t get the dashboard off because it was caught on the very back end of the console. Can you tell me how to get it out fro there. Love your vids. You are my go to guy. Very generous of you to help us all out like you do! THANKS!!
I have 2003 Taurus SEL with center console. Very little airflow from dash vents. The cabin airfilter is brand new. The blower motor runs great at all speeds and the A/C Evaporator is clean. any advice on how to diagnose the mode doors? Love the videos. You do great work. Thanks.
Thanks a ton. I wish would have found this video first. I tried doing it by following that other video where the guy takes all the bolts out, glove box, and cuts off a bracket. It was a disaster, the whole dash fell on me and I still couldn't get the core out. Then it was a pain just to get that one bolt back in for the hinge point. After that I followed your method - it went much smoother.
+FordTechMakuloco It's funny the lengths some people will go to in order to get out of doing a "hard procedure", when in reality doing what ever half ass shortcut they think they're a genius for figuring out actually takes way more time and effort than said procedure. It's great irony. Thanks for the video. My Taurus doesn't need this yet but after dropping a dash in a junkyard car I was trying to find out a better way of doing it. Also what's the torque spec for the steering shaft bolt? And how hard is it to remove without an impact given it's loctited from the factory?
+ice44567 I used a standard 3/8 ratchet and it came out with some effort, but not really bad at all. I could see it had blue locktite on it. When I put it back in, I put some more blue on, and snugged it up pretty good, probably 25 lb/ft? With the locktite, I don't think you need to be too fussy.
I have a 08 sable 3.5l with no heat. The actuator is clicking under dash.Would that cause no heat? I shot my raytec gun on heater hoses one was 120 the other was 75.degrees. Thanks for any help. great video.
Hi, I just learned from your video how to do this job on my daughters 06 Taurus, so much better to pull the dash back than to try and get the old core out any other way, thanks! Nice step by step with good video, really helped. Thank you!
+slipknot5567 If you are swinging the dash out and onto the seats you must disconnect the steering shaft from the steering gear so the system is allowed to swing out and use the drivers side as a pivot point.
+FordTechMakuloDEAR DUANE Anita bought the kind of tape you recommended to repair a leak in the heater core box in my 2007 Ford Taurus. Anita planned to fix it herself. After looking into the situation, Anita came to the realization that she was not capable of fixing it. With love, Dad o
My 2000 Mercury Sable also has brown rusty coolant. Can you explain why so many Fords and Mercurys have this problem? What exactly is causing the rust? Thanks for your videos.
The only real Fords that have this problem are the ones that have the 3.0L Vulcan of that era. Some F150's of that era too but not like these. The problem comes from poor curing of the block when it is cast at the foundry. Here is how to flush it properly- NO HEAT: Ford Taurus Rusty Coolant Flush Procedure
I know this is a long shot but I broke the small clip that is holding in the metal bar by the actuator and I’m wondering how to get a replacement piece. Gonna try the Ford dealers tomorrow but didn’t know if I’m sol or an easier way. Thanks for the video!
I just finished my unfortunately mine has a floor shifter and I couldn't get the dash out as far as you did because there is a plastic tube that goes from the dash through the console. I guess I should have loosened the console and slide it back but I didn't. Made the job a little more difficult not to mention the bottom thermoset bolt was stuck and broke off on me. But I have heat now.
No they have one option. It's temp rating is the same as others starts to open at 195 degrees and fully opens at 212 degrees. This is best for fuel economy, emissions, and reducing moisture in the crankcase. That is why they chose it. Hope this helps!
I am not getting any air coming out of the vents in the middle just the defrost and on the bottom by your feet.. Also the air coming from the bottom and defrost does not get warm at all. What should I do first?
Sorry to bug you, but I live in CA and even if this heater core needs to be replaced, if I get decent heat flushing, do I STILL need to replace heater core? Heat in CA not as significant as in Montana...however, if changing heater core is best for overall performance, I will do it. Not trying to be lazy, just wonder if more damage will be done after a flush.
Thanks for the info but as far as the dashboard, removing those bolts + disconnecting the 4 cables, would it be possible to remove the dashboard completely from the vehicle, or is there more to it?
I have to do my heater core on a 1995 ford taurus. About the same setup. MY question since I have a mechanical speedometer Do I have to take the cable off from unit ??. Great info Thanks
Just tackled this on my 2000 SES. Some notes: First, if you have a floor-shift/center console Taurus, this method ain't gonna work. You'll have to remove the center console, unbolt the shift housing (with shifter in place), and lay it on its side to get the dash to move back. Not fun. Much more work. Also, the linkage behind the heater core on my Taurus was super brittle...broke the retainer trying carefully to get it out...and not something easy to find, parts wise. I jerry-rigged a wire pull to manually open/close the lower door on the heater core housing as it will no longer move with the blend door. Not a great method, but it'll have to do. Not a terrible job, just a frustrating one.
Ack, thanks for replying to this. This guy makes it look so incredibly easy, but I thought about my center console and wondered how that would do with this job. I think I'll have to fork over the money to get it done then.... bummer.
I would love to see how one removes the center console. I have a 2004 Taurus SE (OHV) and I'm afraid to attempt as I've seen no tutorials for a Taurus with a console. :(
I have a 1999 SE and this past winter I lost heat in my car. I live in Buffalo, NY so it was utterly brutal & I froze my A$$ off !! I will be having my system flushed before this month is out & pray that will solve the problem of not having heat. Your skills are amazing!!! If I end up having to have my heater core replaced...could I talk you into coming to fix it for me...plsss :D
Is there an alternate setup for 99s? I pulled my dash and there is no secondary blend door. It doesnt look the like the door was broken and removed; the holes where the door should go into aren't present at all. The box is flush on either side where they should be. I could really use some help on this one, as I can't find any information on this at all. Thanks!
No, the shaft wasn't there either. I pulled a secondary door from a 98 Sable to put in there but it is too small. It's almost like the previous owner replaced the whole box with the wrong unit.
I'm about to buy an 06 Taurus w/t Vulcan eng and the heater does not work. Seems this is an issue w/this eng. Will follow your instructions and flush first then go from there. Yes, that Bosch drill is what I want. THANKS
I followed your video and it was flawless. Took little less than 4 hrs. Hardest part was getting hoses off old heater core. Thanks very much. Have one question Since doing this, idle is up and down and stalls occasionally at low idle. Could I have caused this?
The only way to get those hoses off the heater core inlets is from underneath the car, isn't it? That would have been good to know before starting this. In fact, a few seconds of video just overviewing this process, and any special tools used, would have been nice, since it was the hardest part. Do we need some offset hoseclamp pliers for this, or do people somehow do this with regular pliers?
+Jasen Gibson no I do them all the time from the top, down below the subframe and rack are in the way. I use a small pair of channel locks or regular slip joint pliers or needle nose pliers depending on the position of the clamps
Easiest way is with cable-actuated hose clamp pliers, available in store at most all Sears (~$40). Takes less than a minute to pull back all four flat clamps: www.sears.com/craftsman-cable-operated-hose-clamp-pliers/p-00949803000P?sid=IDx01192011x000001&gclid=CLjhq_74ldECFUlNfgodUyoNgA&gclsrc=aw.ds
Looking for help on removing heater core on 2007 ford freestyle AWD. Can not find any results as how to remove it. Any suggestions? I believe the core is in middle of dash, and not on passenger side.
I watched this video step by step i got the exact same car i saved myself $700 doin it myself even though it was my first big repair and took me 8hrs lol I got it done!!! 💯
Thanks fordtechmakuloco! After watching this I did both the core and thermostat in 4.5hours start to finish. Didn't flush like you said though cause I just had the coolant flushed a few thousand new ago. Anyway thanks a bunch
Followed all directions to remove heater core. couldn't pull dashboard far enough away. I have a 2003 sable. Spent 8 hours trying but couldn't figure out what was holding the dashboard in. It seems to be binding left of center.' What am I missing?
I haven't been able to find anything on changing an evaporator core on a ford Taurus, Would this be a partial guide to change out the evaporator core too?
I had to replace the compressor a few weeks ago, and the person that did the work stated that he had thought the evaporator core was leaking, and that he had put some stop leak in it. I couldn't afford to have him do anymore work on it because I had reached a spending limit with him in regards to the ac work he had already done, and other repairs that he had completed. I have yet to confirm with him as how he came to the conclusion that it was the evaporator core, and had he run a leak detector on the system. Money is still tight, that is why I am researching the repair myself to see what is involved, and if I think I can do it myself.
FordTechMakuloco Okay, I took it in a got a second look at it from a different shop. So far it doesn't appear to be the core. I'm just giving the system time to see if it holds its pressure. It looks like it was the manifold hose that I just had replaced with the compressor a month ago. The non serviceable valve on it was leaking, so I had the hose changed again with new orings on the compressor. So far its been working this whole weekend. Now I just have to hunt down another problem. lol. A bad fuel smell from the back of the car around the tank, I hopped under it today after driving it and it appears to be a fuel leak dripping from the tank. It's hot (Arizona) and I have a rock gravel driveway, so I have to find another option to jack it up and look better. Thanks for your input on the core.
Hi Mak.. So everything was going well.. Until the small plastic upper arm actuator that you rubber banded broke.. Completely my fault. Anyway.. I was wondering if you knew the part name so I can order a new one.. I've seen them listed with different names but nothing comes up when I search parts stores. Hope its not a dealer part.. if all else fails i'll attempt to epoxy the broken plastic back together.
Thanks Mak. I will give it a shot. I am hoping i'm able to find all the pieces. it shattered pretty well.. If not i'll have to macguyver something up. Thanks again buddy.
sorry i haven't read everything yet but how did you get screw/plug out of bottom of rad, my doesnt come out and did you flush it with that out only or did you remove any hose's. and why disconnect steering wheel
ok dumb question's don't deserve an answer. i just took a closer look at video to see steering wheel and watched video on flushing (just had to pull harder on rad drainplug, was afraid of braking it but saw what i was dealing with when you put it back in). this video was a great help!! thanks again
excellent video -got the same problem, i noticed it took u 7:00 hrs..removal of core should be easier like making a special pull out plastic door. you make great videos-thx
Very observant! It actually took me about 3 1/2 hrs to do including long flush, thermostat and heater core all while filming. There were other cars in the shop to work on along the way too so there were breaks to serve other customers. The filming is what really bogged me down. This can be done in 1 hr easy, it doesn't get any easier than the Taurus.
I have a 03' Taurus. I flushed the dirty coolant, replaced the bottle, and was going to wait a bit before doing the heater core. A week, maybe two, after i flushed the coolant, it was dirty again(brown color). what could be wrong? i don't want to put a new heater core in there and have it get clogged up again. any help? thank you!
+Kelvin Brito These systems are so badly rusted you will never get it all out and it may require multiple flushes so you are doing it right. Did you use the rust and scale remover I link to from motorcraft?
Great Video! You're right...I have seen videos where they say.."Just go through your grove box and cut this metal piece off..and you can get out the core!" This video is much better...just a few more bolts to undo and it's much easier to do with all the space.
Watched this video again to replace my heater core for the 2nd time. LOL. Got some corrosion going on. Pipes twisted off when I was removing the heater hose assembly. And that plastic lever you said to watch out breaking? Yeah, I broke it. Actually I think I broke it the last time I was under the dash.
ok today i did somewhat the same however didn't watch your video to now anyhow the plastic on the bottom thats goes under both seats what is that called
+FordTechMakuloco thanks alot ok one other question to hoses that connects to the heating core on the outside what is that called changed the core and it is leaking from the metal or aluminum pipe that is connected to those hoses need to change it but dont know the name.....please help
I have a 95 Taurus Wagon with a 3.0 litre SOHC. Excellent video one of the best I've seen. Just curious would changing my heater core be quite similar? I'm smelling fumes that smell kind of sweet so I'm suspecting a leaky/plugged heater core and want to educate myself as to what I might be in for.
Hello. Thanks for all of your videos~! I did this heater core replacement last week and now I have GREAT HEAT Thank God, BUT as soon as I put my dashboard back in I have had some electrical problems, My speedometer is bouncing around and registering 40 mph while sitting still. and I've had some problems starting the engine and I never did before. I figure I messed something up. Any ideas please??
Well done. Thanks for the help. My 2005's gear shift is on the floor so I had to put it car in gear (D2) in order to pull back the dash. Thanks for the help.
'03 Taurus-Poor heat. I checked all of the doors and actuators look good. Flushed system noticed after refilling that the temp. gauge drops after pulling away from stop at traffic light. Figured thermostat was bad-replaced it. Still doing it. Seems like it has something to do with the cooling fans/AC compr. control. I can hear the clutch click in at times when the control is in 'heat' setting. Any suggestions?
FordTechMakuloco Great video!I don't have the facility to tear my core out now. Too cold outside now. Removed inlet and outlet lines and filled core with CLR;waited 15 minutes flushed, topped off AF. Found out AC and fans run on this car when floor/dash vents are selected causing issue at TLs. Added toggle valve to control outside air door. Now have 120F heat; was 55F before. Thanks! :-)
Followed your videos about the Taurus no heat issues. New thermostat, flush, and installed my new heater core. Now it's piping hot and ready for the Wisconsin winter. Thank you so much for taking the time to help people like me out. Be safe out there.
How did you take the hose clamps off
Dude you are the best. The Mechanic told me I had a blown Head Gasket due to a Coolant Leak that LOOKED to be coming from the Head Gasket. I saw your posted video and realized ( Like your video ) the leak was coming from the Coolant Port that passes through the Timing Chain Cover. I'm no Mechanic but I successfully changed the Timing Chain Cover Gasket following the steps from your video. I Just wanted to say, THANKS !!! YOU SAVED ME ALOT OF MONEY!!! Now I have to replace the Heater Core. I will once again follow your instructions. Hope I'm successful.
My Name is Jerry, I have a 2002 Ford Taurus SES.
First, I want to thank you for taking the time to create this video. I have wanted to create videos like this myself, but each time I start a job, I just do the job and complete it. So I know it takes time and motivation to want to help someone else. Second, if you send me a Paypal e-mail, I will be happy to buy you lunch or dinner on me, your video saved me over $600 bucks as quoted by 2 shops in town. As my father said many times, "Money talks, and BS walks. I mean it, this video gave me the confidence that I could do this, and save my family a huge repair bill !!
Next, I would like to add a few caveats to maybe help the next person inspired to repair their Taurus with this problem.
Of Course, Don't forget to always DISCONNECT BOTH Battery Terminals before working on your vehicle.
The guy who commented earlier about the center console is absolutely correct.
1. If you have a center console, your will need to at the very least try to disconnect the dash vent which leads to the rear heat. removing the center console is more work but will keep things from getting broken. I had 2 other guys help, which really helped.
2. The dash will not slide back so easily, I did have to remove all 4 dash bolts in order to pull it away from the firewall. Also, don't get to aggressive when pulling the dash away on the driver side, the wires and connectors are short. Probably 1 reason he wanted to leave that upper left side bolt in place.
3. The heater controls are "Super brittle" and since you will not have complete and open access the plastic retainer in front of the lever will probably undoubtedly break, so be prepared to use a c clip to so other method to keep that silver lever from coming off (this was not a disaster just took more time.
4. I did break my hood release plastic by sitting the dash on it (without knowing) It still works, now, it just hangs there.
5. Removing the hoses from the heater core is a tough job. Mine were leaking really bad and had to be yanked out.
6. The cost of the heater core was $57.00, The Anti-freeze was about $30. I also bought a couple of hose clamps. And of course the items mentioned in the The total repair, a little over $100.00. Labor for me was about 6-8 hours. The professionals quoted 5 hours.
The procedure did work, I have heat again, and was happy to trade my Saturday for the $600 +.
CarCleaningNJ@gmail.com
JYNorflet
th-cam.com/video/Z6b1GaRQAJY/w-d-xo.html
Jerry Norflet Well glad I could help yes these are very expensive repairs. my paypal email is makuloco20000@yahoo.com thank you so much
This is absolutely the best video on this heater core removal and install on TH-cam. Excellent !
Oh thanks!
By far, hands down he is one of the best on this field,,, great videos ,well explained, keep it up!
I just want to say thank you for posting this video! It was dead on! Installation of the new heater core want very smoothly. And like Scott, I didn't swear or throw a single wrench! It went that smooth. Instead of removing the old heater hose assembly, I decided to replace it completely, I got the assembly at amazon for $64.00 Ford equipment (spend the extra $10 or so, don`t buy the cheap one). I loosened the assembly at the 2 mounting points and then removed the line from the passenger side (clamp and hose) and the line below the thermostat housing (clamp and hose. I then cut the lines away from the core and removed the old assembly. It made it a lot easier to remove the clamps from the core. After I removed the clamps I then cut the hoses off the core via box cutter and they came off super easy (peeled right off). Upon replacing, if you take the heater core clamp on the passenger side and angle it up towards the 12 o clock position and the heater core clamp on the drivers side to the 3 o clock position its a piece of cake to walk the clamps back on with a pair of channel locks. It will also help in the future if you ever need to remove them to back flush the heater core. Total time to completely flush system, do the install like video, including new hose assembly, 5 hours, and I was in no rush. Total amount of money saved $550.00. Again, thank you for posting this video. Very helpful and then some!!!!!!
Is this the same procedure for an 03 mercury sable. I cannot find video for the sable.
I did this too a very improperly and before the core was figured to be the culprit! Uhg. Wish I had my recent post "Remove Heater Hoses QUICKLY". I had the privilege of doing it the new easier way. Sharing incase you help a friend.
My Daughters Taurus had the same condition. I was going to have her take it to a mechanic after looking at the procedure in the motor manual. After watching this video, I decided that I could do this for her. This video is SPOT ON with his description, It took me about 10-15 minutes to do all this. Every step is perfectly explained. Thank you for posting this.
That is so awesome to hear! I hope you followed my rusty coolant flush procedure too. Good to hear this kind of feedback especially with this cold snap right now.
10-15 minutes? No way
***** To pull the dash with no center console, column shift, and power tools you can do it in that time no problem.
Great video. I watched it twice before tearing into mine and it was nearly flawless. Everything happened just as you showed here. Very Easy to understand. I was a bit intimidated by this project, but watching this gave me a lot of confidence. Thanks a bunch.
My girlfriend has this same car, her heater happened to stop working last week, checked it, and it was all kinds of gunked up... found this video, super easy! Got her all fixed up, now she can practically roast a steak on those vents haha. Thanks man!
Today I followed your video step by step and BINGO! It went pretty smoothly, mind you, I'VE NEVER CHANGED ANYTHING IN A CAR!!!
I did forget one thing, to flush it all out before starting the whole thing but I figure it will take YEARS until it the brand new piece clogs up again.
THANK YOU, THANK YOU and THANK YOU. I saved about $500 .
Right ON!!!
Should have flushed it.
How does someone so young learn so much? You are amazing.
Repetition creates magic. Replace a radiator on a 2007 Taurus the first time and it's a bitch, but do it 199 more times and to the novice, you look like a genius.
I have to say this video saved the day!!! The details were perfect and clear. The job really wasn't that bad except for 2 things I would add. No. 1, my steering shaft did not come apart as easy as yours did. I had to take a straight blade screwdriver between the two parts of the shaft and wiggle them apart. When I put them back together I used a large pair of channel lock pliers to squeeze them back together so the shaft bolt would fit. It turned out pretty nice. No. 2 was the hard part and actually took the longest. The flipping hose clamps man!!! OMG I spent forever to no avail trying to get them off so I went to AutoZone to see if there was a special tool. There was and it cost me $35, but it was money well spent. Once I figured out how to use them I kicked myself for not having it in the first place! Thanks again brother! Saved me $$$!!! Here's a link for anyone wondering what the hose clamp removal tool looks like:
www.amazon.com/OTC-4525-Cable-Type-Flexible-Pliers/dp/B000F5JM0O
This excellent video deserves to be the most viewed and highly rated off all heater core replacements. I've seen them ALL, over and over, including the one that's "fast" and has over 1.6 M views. The filming on this is outstanding, as is the narration. I still may take the fast route because I want to minimize the number of things I could screw up by removing the whole dash... plus I'm lazy. But I highly recommend seeing this before you replace your heater core. Thanks for the time and effort you put into this, FordTechMakuloco.
Well...I did it! I followed your complete "No Heat" process. I am stunned how easy it was to remove the dash. Everything went according to your video...except maybe I had to remove the door sill cover in order to remove the weather-stripping. I removed the air cleaner snorkle/assembly and trans dip stick to get better access to the heater hose connections. Had a stubborn leak on the heater hose but cranked down on the clamp and it went away. Heat is a good thing!
Where you from you need heat already? It is mid 90's here.
This video should have a million views. You were right about the other videos..they were way off with the instructions. Great job!!!😃
I have a 1999 Taurus. I wouldn't have tried without this video. Thanks a bunch! My actuator in front of core had 4 screws and no linkage. Other than that and my time saving tip below this is awesome! Again Thanks. I did have to replace a Tee in my hoses; ended up using 1/2 copper pluming Tee with two 45 degree Street connections I soldered to give a landing for the end clamps. Otherwise it's too tight with out the street pieces one clamp will most likely fall off as mine did-- loss of coolant not worth the hassle.
This is a well done and informative video. I would have thought the steering column would need to be removed, but I see that you were able to leave it in place. Excellent advice to replace the coolant reservoir rather than fighting a losing battle cleaning it out.
I was a Huey mechanic in the Army, thank you for showing the "correct" way to do it. no short cuts. do it right, do it once.
"Skids are for kids" us Blackhawk guys say! Lol!
A huge thanks for your video. Just did a heater core on a friends daughters car this morning and with the help of this video, it went so smooth I don't think I swore even once. The hoses were kind of a pain but when my buddy hooked me up with his new hose clamp tool which basically is a pair of pliars with a cable and a slide jaw at the end, they came off within 2-3 minutes. As far as this video though, it's spot on to a tee. Four plugs and the steering shaft and the 7 bolts that hold the dash and this beast was way easy to get to. 1 1/2 hours and it was done. Thanks a ton brother. And ur 100% right, going through the glovebox seems pretty silly to me when this method is this easy.
Scott Stalmack Super easy glad you got her fixed up.
Scott Stalmack.
I
Picked up a 2000 Taurus month ago and followed your videos on flushing cooling system and heater core replacement. It was spot on. Now waiting on a video for the ax4n transmission common problems they have. Keep up the great work
check the fluid, change it if it s black or looks dirty, and while you are there change the trans filter
I live in New York City. Do you know a mechanic that will flush and clean my heater core system like you? You are the best and professional mechanic online by far. I had my heater core replaced twice. Just like your video warned, one of the mechanics broke the black flap and the linkages just fell off. Not knowing what was done, I found the metal linkage without the spring just lying on the passenger floor. Not knowing where they came from, I just kept it in my glove box. Then bammm, you nailed it, one of the mechanics did a shoddy job. I am now thinking about flushing and cleaning my cooling system and changing the heater core myself. The heater core itself is under warranty from Autozone anyway and its cheap about $65. It's the labor that make you say ouch about $600 - $700. None of the mechanics that butchered my heating system did the repair and cleaning job like you. Congrats you are a Mechanics hit-man! No lol! (347) 414 - 1267.
William Russell Moore No I don't know anyone in NY but I can tell you make sure you do the VC-9 rust flush video before ever attempting this heater core replacement.
Just wanted to say thanks for great video, my wife did 75 percent of the work due to me being disabled went as smooth as hoped.
I followed your instructions to the T and was successful. I hit a snag because my blend door motor was broken. Also if you could show ways to bleed air pockets out of the 3.0 Vulcan engines, that would be very very helpful. I had to park my car on a steep hill when refilling the antifreeze after the flush. I also broke the linkage flex rertainer piece but I glued it with super glue and baking soda. I saved myself hundreds of dollars on a few hours job and I am no mechanic, thanks to you.
This video is the goods. Turn around to job done. 3 hrs today. Thanks for the wisdom. Saved $800.00.
That's great to hear!
Hey I absolutely love how in depth and step-by-step your videos are. Don't find that quite often.
That's what I was going for with my videos and seems to be paying off.
Thanks for this, the dash removal was the part I was dreading when I should have been more worried about the heater core hoses. Those things are rough. I ended up removing the intake manifold so I could get better access.
Yeah, I hated doing the hose replacement wrongly, but those hoses are a 15 minute job with two tools. Read my recent post "Remove Heater Hoses QUICKLY "
used this same procedure on my 99 taurus se 3.0v. took a few hrs, minus the flushing time which is a must. Great Vid Thank you saved $300 min in labor
Ok I have another issue. I figured out the coolant. This issue is a bit more crucial. To start in order, I broke the bottom plastic piece underneath the actuator (the arm off of the bottom piece). This is in picture #1. I thought maybe it would would without the arm. So I proceeded to reinstall the actuator. Then, I figured out the actuator will not go back to its regular facing. It is tilted to the left since it only goes in one way. I cannot get it to straighten out. When I try to turn it to the right to straighten it, it will not move. I have attached a picture for this as well. It is the second picture. So i tried to use the plastic arm to turn it harder to straighten it out. It still wouldn't go straight. However, with such great pressure, I broke off the plastic arm that you state to rubber band up in the video. I have a picture attached for this as well. It is the 3rd picture. Do you have any advice? Is there anyway I can fix this? These stupid plastic pieces have put an end to the whole repair.
Image 1: scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xft1/v/t34.0-12/12647896_10205885496320236_871661516_n.jpg?oh=2ed826e16b4ed66ed2df117d1df1f1d5&oe=56AFA54D
Image 2: scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xlt1/v/t34.0-12/12650595_10205885496880250_1545995795_n.jpg?oh=1d50774dd2dd88662a2984f312adc6d9&oe=56AEA263
Image 3: scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xta1/v/t34.0-12/12647778_10205885497360262_405895418_n.jpg?oh=7492a4a16ff0decb0e16200811c46d3a&oe=56AFC6C1
HELP SOMEONE PLEASE!
Idk if you will see this but at around 9:00 in the video that silver bar that’s there is missing in my 2006 Taurus and spring and everything else is there would that silver bar missing cause no heat in the cabin just getting around to wanting the heat and realized is missing
Yes you need all the parts for the secondary door to get full heat.
Wow 7 years later and you still reply that’s awesome man gonna try to find one at a junk yard seems you can’t just buy it at the auto parts store
Thank you so much for the well done video guide. I have been putting off pulling the dash to change the core. I've needed to do this for 5 years. I had flushed the system a couple times, and that helped, but now I have real heat instead of lukewarm air.
Good to hear, it's great to have that burning heat again I am sure, you should be all set for next winter now.
Excellent. Better than the "cut the metal and barely pull the dash out of the way" technique. Doing this will actually save time in the end and make it easier.
Got any tips on removing the hoses from the heater core? That part was conspicuous by its absence.
majesticmalfeasance Yes use a needle nose pliers or a small channel locks to remove the clamps and twist them to break the bond with a pair of slip joint pliers just be careful to not ruin the hose and they will slide off.
FordTechMakuloco It was VERY difficult to get to the hose clamps, especially the second one since they are fused together and the first one can't be moved out of the way. Along with that, the space would be cramped for a lilliputian and it's almost impossible to maneuver any kind of tool in there. I finally got it off with a pair of pliers and a crow bar. The entire job took me almost the whole day because of the clamps. Now I have a vacuum problem and all I get is defrost mode, so I'm going to have to remove the dash again and figure out what happened.
Dude thank you SOOO much - I am cooking rt now with 140 degree temp in the air vent.
I followed your other video on burping the coolant and that worked well.
Toughest part was removing the heater core hose.. I ended up going from the air intake side to remove the top one and then the degas bottle side. I used hose pliers and also a long garden wedge tool along with a wedge to push up against the firewall for leverage. Also I had to take the whole dash off instead of hinge it (1997 model) .
Great video, followed the steps but i do have one question(for anybody that might know)... AT 8:28 in your video, the linkage that goes across the heater core cover/door... mine was already broken and needs replaced. anyone have a idea what the part # is or what its called?
Excellent videos. Why are the techs not cutting the dash assembly factory mount underneath the dash giving access to the heater core. That mount is not used once it leaves the factory but blocks the removal of the core during its replacement.
E Bosarge, Just wanted to say you are right about sliding the dash back,Thumbs up, made it easy for a old man!!!!
how much torque is needed for the steering bolt???
Great video! Do you know if this procedure is the same for a 1998 Taurus?
So to refill the cooling system you fill it with a gallon of gold ford motorcraft and add water to it? How do you get the 70/30 or 60/40 you mentioned thank you
After watching this video I'm gonna tackle my heater core. Good Job on the video it's the best one I've seen yet.
Thanks!
FordTechMakuloco what was the year of the taurus in the video?
Michael Alvarado like 2002 I believe.
After watching your video here I went to do the heater core on my car a 2002 merc sable with the shifter on the center console. I couldn t get the dashboard off because it was caught on the very back end of the console. Can you tell me how to get it out fro there. Love your vids. You are my go to guy. Very generous of you to help us all out like you do! THANKS!!
I have 2003 Taurus SEL with center console. Very little airflow from dash vents. The cabin airfilter is brand new. The blower motor runs great at all speeds and the A/C Evaporator is clean. any advice on how to diagnose the mode doors?
Love the videos. You do great work.
Thanks.
+Nick Hall With the blower motor out did you look up to see if the air inlet was not blocked in any way?
Thanks a ton. I wish would have found this video first. I tried doing it by following that other video where the guy takes all the bolts out, glove box, and cuts off a bracket. It was a disaster, the whole dash fell on me and I still couldn't get the core out. Then it was a pain just to get that one bolt back in for the hinge point. After that I followed your method - it went much smoother.
+Brad Waite Yeah that guy is a hack this one is so easy to get to there is no reason to cut up the dash bracket etc.
+FordTechMakuloco It's funny the lengths some people will go to in order to get out of doing a "hard procedure", when in reality doing what ever half ass shortcut they think they're a genius for figuring out actually takes way more time and effort than said procedure. It's great irony. Thanks for the video. My Taurus doesn't need this yet but after dropping a dash in a junkyard car I was trying to find out a better way of doing it. Also what's the torque spec for the steering shaft bolt? And how hard is it to remove without an impact given it's loctited from the factory?
+ice44567 I used a standard 3/8 ratchet and it came out with some effort, but not really bad at all. I could see it had blue locktite on it. When I put it back in, I put some more blue on, and snugged it up pretty good, probably 25 lb/ft? With the locktite, I don't think you need to be too fussy.
Brad Waite Thanks man.
I have a 08 sable 3.5l with no heat. The actuator is clicking under dash.Would that cause no heat? I shot my raytec gun on heater hoses one was 120 the other was 75.degrees. Thanks for any help. great video.
hi! I have a 2002 mercury sable.
u think will be the same procedures????
Hi, I just learned from your video how to do this job on my daughters 06 Taurus, so much better to pull the dash back than to try and get the old core out any other way, thanks! Nice step by step with good video, really helped. Thank you!
Why do you remove the bolt from the steering shaft? Does it help gain access to the heater core hoses?
+slipknot5567 If you are swinging the dash out and onto the seats you must disconnect the steering shaft from the steering gear so the system is allowed to swing out and use the drivers side as a pivot point.
+FordTechMakuloDEAR DUANE
Anita bought the kind of tape you
recommended to repair a leak in the heater core box in my 2007 Ford
Taurus. Anita planned to fix it herself. After looking into the
situation, Anita came to the realization that she was not capable of
fixing it.
With love,
Dad
o
Best step by step videos out there..
that was the quickest heater core job i've ever seen.
Camry is faster
Amazing. I wish I'd seen this earlier. It has taken me hours to replace the heater core.
My 2000 Mercury Sable also has brown rusty coolant. Can you explain why so many Fords and Mercurys have this problem? What exactly is causing the rust? Thanks for your videos.
The only real Fords that have this problem are the ones that have the 3.0L Vulcan of that era. Some F150's of that era too but not like these. The problem comes from poor curing of the block when it is cast at the foundry. Here is how to flush it properly- NO HEAT: Ford Taurus Rusty Coolant Flush Procedure
When you put your actuator back in did you have to force it to turn. I had to until i heard to clicks?
I know this is a long shot but I broke the small clip that is holding in the metal bar by the actuator and I’m wondering how to get a replacement piece. Gonna try the Ford dealers tomorrow but didn’t know if I’m sol or an easier way. Thanks for the video!
How does one remove the linkage, the one beneath the actuator? Does it just pull off?
I guess I'm anxious about getting it back together.
You just need to flex the retainer out of the way and carefully slide it out.
FordTechMakuloco
Turns out that linkage is not present on a 99 w/o climate control.
do you flex it up or sideways? i feel like im going to break it. thanks
Quick question, When removing the dash, would i have to disable the passenger airbag?
You don't have to no it all stays connected
Thank you Sir!! :D
Great video. Big fan. Is the process the same if I have a center console with the shift on the console?
I just finished my unfortunately mine has a floor shifter and I couldn't get the dash out as far as you did because there is a plastic tube that goes from the dash through the console. I guess I should have loosened the console and slide it back but I didn't. Made the job a little more difficult not to mention the bottom thermoset bolt was stuck and broke off on me. But I have heat now.
No they have one option. It's temp rating is the same as others starts to open at 195 degrees and fully opens at 212 degrees. This is best for fuel economy, emissions, and reducing moisture in the crankcase. That is why they chose it. Hope this helps!
Fordtechmakuloco do you have a 02 ford f-150 video for this heater core replacement?
How do you get access to the hose connections. Could get one off but not reach other from either side or below??
I am not getting any air coming out of the vents in the middle just the defrost and on the bottom by your feet.. Also the air coming from the bottom and defrost does not get warm at all. What should I do first?
Would a 2006 montego be the same procedure or is it more or less difficult. Wish they could all be as easy as the 1980's f150s.
Sorry to bug you, but I live in CA and even if this heater core needs to be replaced, if I get decent heat flushing, do I STILL need to replace heater core? Heat in CA not as significant as in Montana...however, if changing heater core is best for overall performance, I will do it. Not trying to be lazy, just wonder if more damage will be done after a flush.
Thanks for the info but as far as the dashboard, removing those bolts + disconnecting the 4 cables, would it be possible to remove the dashboard completely from the vehicle, or is there more to it?
I have to do my heater core on a 1995 ford taurus. About the same setup. MY question since I have a mechanical speedometer Do I have to take the cable off from unit ??. Great info Thanks
Just tackled this on my 2000 SES. Some notes: First, if you have a floor-shift/center console Taurus, this method ain't gonna work. You'll have to remove the center console, unbolt the shift housing (with shifter in place), and lay it on its side to get the dash to move back. Not fun. Much more work. Also, the linkage behind the heater core on my Taurus was super brittle...broke the retainer trying carefully to get it out...and not something easy to find, parts wise. I jerry-rigged a wire pull to manually open/close the lower door on the heater core housing as it will no longer move with the blend door. Not a great method, but it'll have to do. Not a terrible job, just a frustrating one.
Ack, thanks for replying to this. This guy makes it look so incredibly easy, but I thought about my center console and wondered how that would do with this job. I think I'll have to fork over the money to get it done then.... bummer.
LaChicaTieneTumbao Center consoles are very easy to remove on these as well.
I would love to see how one removes the center console. I have a 2004 Taurus SE (OHV) and I'm afraid to attempt as I've seen no tutorials for a Taurus with a console. :(
I have a 1999 SE and this past winter I lost heat in my car. I live in Buffalo, NY so it was utterly brutal & I froze my A$$ off !! I will be having my system flushed before this month is out & pray that will solve the problem of not having heat. Your skills are amazing!!! If I end up having to have my heater core replaced...could I talk you into coming to fix it for me...plsss :D
Would this be very similar for a 2005 Taurus that has the Vulcan engine?
Thanks much,
-Nigel
NewShockerGuy yes
Go Nigel, go!!!
Is there an alternate setup for 99s? I pulled my dash and there is no secondary blend door. It doesnt look the like the door was broken and removed; the holes where the door should go into aren't present at all. The box is flush on either side where they should be. I could really use some help on this one, as I can't find any information on this at all. Thanks!
Is that metal shaft there from the primary to the secondary behind the temp control actuator. They should all have it.
No, the shaft wasn't there either. I pulled a secondary door from a 98 Sable to put in there but it is too small. It's almost like the previous owner replaced the whole box with the wrong unit.
how did you remember where all that shit went?
Great video, what do you torque the steering bolt too.
Hi worked good ! a round spring with a black clip fell out from behind the dash on driver side do you know where this came from ?
What kind of drill are you using...that thing rocks!
I believe you are referring to my 1/4" impact and yes it rocks this is the one I use- amzn.to/2jJydC8
I'm about to buy an 06 Taurus w/t Vulcan eng and the heater does not work. Seems this is an issue w/this eng. Will follow your instructions and flush first then go from there. Yes, that Bosch drill is what I want. THANKS
hello, nice video on core change. just changed mine today on 02 taking about 2 hrs. thanks, mike
I couldn't see if this applies to my models, as you didn't state year. I have a 05 3.0 FFV and an 06 3.0. Thanks
I followed your video and it was flawless. Took little less than 4 hrs. Hardest part was getting hoses off old heater core. Thanks very much. Have one question
Since doing this, idle is up and down and stalls occasionally at low idle. Could I have caused this?
You got a vacuum leak somewhere. Yes, you probably cracked an old vacuum line when you were under the hood, they're cheap to replace.
The only way to get those hoses off the heater core inlets is from underneath the car, isn't it?
That would have been good to know before starting this. In fact, a few seconds of video just overviewing this process, and any special tools used, would have been nice, since it was the hardest part.
Do we need some offset hoseclamp pliers for this, or do people somehow do this with regular pliers?
+Jasen Gibson no I do them all the time from the top, down below the subframe and rack are in the way. I use a small pair of channel locks or regular slip joint pliers or needle nose pliers depending on the position of the clamps
Easiest way is with cable-actuated hose clamp pliers, available in store at most all Sears (~$40). Takes less than a minute to pull back all four flat clamps:
www.sears.com/craftsman-cable-operated-hose-clamp-pliers/p-00949803000P?sid=IDx01192011x000001&gclid=CLjhq_74ldECFUlNfgodUyoNgA&gclsrc=aw.ds
Hopefully you see this, does this apply to an 02 Mercury sable? It’s the 3.0 12 valve.
Looking for help on removing heater core on 2007 ford freestyle AWD. Can not find any results as how to remove it. Any suggestions? I believe the core is in middle of dash, and not on passenger side.
I watched this video step by step i got the exact same car i saved myself $700 doin it myself even though it was my first big repair and took me 8hrs lol I got it done!!! 💯
Thanks fordtechmakuloco! After watching this I did both the core and thermostat in 4.5hours start to finish. Didn't flush like you said though cause I just had the coolant flushed a few thousand new ago. Anyway thanks a bunch
Awesome!
Followed all directions to remove heater core. couldn't pull dashboard far enough away. I have a 2003 sable. Spent 8 hours trying but couldn't figure out what was holding the dashboard in. It seems to be binding left of center.' What am I missing?
I haven't been able to find anything on changing an evaporator core on a ford Taurus, Would this be a partial guide to change out the evaporator core too?
Yes it would as the dash is the first to come out. Who said you need an evap? I have never seen one replaced ever on a Taurus.
I had to replace the compressor a few weeks ago, and the person that did the work stated that he had thought the evaporator core was leaking, and that he had put some stop leak in it. I couldn't afford to have him do anymore work on it because I had reached a spending limit with him in regards to the ac work he had already done, and other repairs that he had completed. I have yet to confirm with him as how he came to the conclusion that it was the evaporator core, and had he run a leak detector on the system. Money is still tight, that is why I am researching the repair myself to see what is involved, and if I think I can do it myself.
Well I would put some dye in it and let it run to actually see where the leak is.
FordTechMakuloco Okay, I took it in a got a second look at it from a different shop. So far it doesn't appear to be the core. I'm just giving the system time to see if it holds its pressure. It looks like it was the manifold hose that I just had replaced with the compressor a month ago. The non serviceable valve on it was leaking, so I had the hose changed again with new orings on the compressor. So far its been working this whole weekend. Now I just have to hunt down another problem. lol. A bad fuel smell from the back of the car around the tank, I hopped under it today after driving it and it appears to be a fuel leak dripping from the tank. It's hot (Arizona) and I have a rock gravel driveway, so I have to find another option to jack it up and look better. Thanks for your input on the core.
Hi Mak.. So everything was going well.. Until the small plastic upper arm actuator that you rubber banded broke.. Completely my fault. Anyway.. I was wondering if you knew the part name so I can order a new one.. I've seen them listed with different names but nothing comes up when I search parts stores. Hope its not a dealer part.. if all else fails i'll attempt to epoxy the broken plastic back together.
***** Try to use something called q bond first. The part I believe is only part of the case.
Thanks Mak. I will give it a shot. I am hoping i'm able to find all the pieces. it shattered pretty well.. If not i'll have to macguyver something up. Thanks again buddy.
sorry i haven't read everything yet but how did you get screw/plug out of bottom of rad, my doesnt come out and did you flush it with that out only or did you remove any hose's. and why disconnect steering wheel
ok dumb question's don't deserve an answer. i just took a closer look at video to see steering wheel and watched video on flushing (just had to pull harder on rad drainplug, was afraid of braking it but saw what i was dealing with when you put it back in). this video was a great help!! thanks again
Ford engineering really thought this one through!
what are procedures the bungee came loose while taking this apart from the steering wheel?
What if your shifter is on the floor. Will dash be able to go over it
+Alan King No you should remove the center console and shifter first.
+FordTechMakuloco
How hard is it to remove the center console with floor ahifter
+FordTechMakuloco
how.
Never done this before
excellent video -got the same problem, i noticed it took u 7:00 hrs..removal of core should be easier like making a special pull out plastic door. you make great videos-thx
Very observant! It actually took me about 3 1/2 hrs to do including long flush, thermostat and heater core all while filming. There were other cars in the shop to work on along the way too so there were breaks to serve other customers. The filming is what really bogged me down. This can be done in 1 hr easy, it doesn't get any easier than the Taurus.
I have a 03' Taurus. I flushed the dirty coolant, replaced the bottle, and was going to wait a bit before doing the heater core. A week, maybe two, after i flushed the coolant, it was dirty again(brown color). what could be wrong? i don't want to put a new heater core in there and have it get clogged up again. any help? thank you!
+Kelvin Brito These systems are so badly rusted you will never get it all out and it may require multiple flushes so you are doing it right. Did you use the rust and scale remover I link to from motorcraft?
+FordTechMakuloco I have not but I will be. Thank you for your help and very informative video
What years does this cover for the procedure? I have a 97 Taurus.
+sabrom They are all very similar from 96-2007
FordTechMakuloco What about the air bag? do you have to disable that? i'm doing this heater core today. Lol
Great Video! You're right...I have seen videos where they say.."Just go through your grove box and cut this metal piece off..and you can get out the core!"
This video is much better...just a few more bolts to undo and it's much easier to do with all the space.
my ford Taurus had a heating problem also. it is ford Taurus 2007 sel. I think I should be able to do this. Thanks very much for your video...
I'm going to attempt this on a 99 Taurus Sunday morning. The bolt for the steering wheel is under the dash or under the hood?
Under the dash you will see it in same spot as shown in my video.
Watched this video again to replace my heater core for the 2nd time. LOL. Got some corrosion going on. Pipes twisted off when I was removing the heater hose assembly. And that plastic lever you said to watch out breaking? Yeah, I broke it. Actually I think I broke it the last time I was under the dash.
ok today i did somewhat the same however didn't watch your video to now anyhow the plastic on the bottom thats goes under both seats what is that called
+Luis Lopez That is the floor ductwork for the rear
+FordTechMakuloco
thanks alot ok one other question to hoses that connects to the heating core on the outside what is that called changed the core and it is leaking from the metal or aluminum pipe that is connected to those hoses need to change it but dont know the name.....please help
That is a coolant bypass pipe assembly
I have a 95 Taurus Wagon with a 3.0 litre SOHC. Excellent video one of the best I've seen. Just curious would changing my heater core be quite similar? I'm smelling fumes that smell kind of sweet so I'm suspecting a leaky/plugged heater core and want to educate myself as to what I might be in for.
Hello. Thanks for all of your videos~! I did this heater core replacement last week and now I have GREAT HEAT Thank God, BUT as soon as I put my dashboard back in I have had some electrical problems, My speedometer is bouncing around and registering 40 mph while sitting still. and I've had some problems starting the engine and I never did before. I figure I messed something up. Any ideas please??
Well done. Thanks for the help.
My 2005's gear shift is on the floor so I had to put it car in gear (D2) in order to pull back the dash.
Thanks for the help.
'03 Taurus-Poor heat. I checked all of the doors and actuators look good. Flushed system noticed after refilling that the temp. gauge drops after pulling away from stop at traffic light. Figured thermostat was bad-replaced it. Still doing it. Seems like it has something to do with the cooling fans/AC compr. control. I can hear the clutch click in at times when the control is in 'heat' setting. Any suggestions?
Tommy Mac No yours still needs a core and now sounds like it has air pockets also.
FordTechMakuloco Great video!I don't have the facility to tear my core out now. Too cold outside now. Removed inlet and outlet lines and filled core with CLR;waited 15 minutes flushed, topped off AF. Found out AC and fans run on this car when floor/dash vents are selected causing issue at TLs. Added toggle valve to control outside air door. Now have 120F heat; was 55F before. Thanks! :-)
What do I do if I broke the plastic holder you rubber banded up.
Pedro Pacheco ur the second person that said they did that
i really appreciate that video. I've never did any work on a car. but that video was the best. saved me money lol. thanks
+Tyren Reynolds good to hear.