How to Quickly Determine if Your Heater Core is Plugged!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video we show you how to properly diagnose a clogged heater core on your Ford vehicle. If you have a poor or no heat concern from your HVAC system this is how we check.
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The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user and BSG Automotive (hereinafter “FordTechMakuloco”) makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. FordTechMakuloco shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by FordTechMakuloco and therefore, FordTechMakuloco does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge FordTechMakuloco or anyone affiliated with FordTechMakuloco, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law.
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Thanks, I’ve been a master DIY shadetree mechanic for about 30 years, but I still like to listen to the pros who probably know 10 times what I do.
@Danny Phillips you’ve been working on your own stuff and you don’t know how to tell if the airbag is hooked up? 😂…..
@Danny Phillips Sounds like you need a lightbulb repair kit. You'll need a metric crescent wrench to work on it.
Good video showing simple regular drain and fill for cooling system would prevent this problem.
Legend has it, at the Ford assembly line, the heater core is the first part to appear on the conveyor belt and the vehicles are assembled around it :P Thanks for your videos!
😁😁😁😁
That was absolutely true with my 2002 Navigator !
your shop and set up is well equip it. I worked in 1977/78 for an authorized fancy car dealer, and your shop is technically impressive and well equipped. I commend you for your scare.
thanks.
I would have never thought the heater core could be plugged up. Great tips. Now show changing one. LOL
Always entertaining while on lunch break
You have been so helpful. Thank you for your expertise. You speak well and are very thorough. You make repairs fun and give me confidence.
I did a heater core back in the 70's on a 60's car. All i had to do was remove the glove box and it was right there.
Don't imagine they are that easy today. lol
Must have been a mustang or capri. Chevy equinox,12 hours to change.
I did one on a 1973 Lincoln Continental coupe I had. Tore the dash and plenum apart, made the swap. It took most of a day to do. Upon reassembling the car, I found the cause of coolant flooding into the car. The pre molded 90° degree bend in the heater hase was split on the underside so it directed the leak into the plenum openings for the tubes of the heater core. No way was it visible buried in the back of the engine bay, but that new heater core sure blasted the cabin with heat. I'm talking "cook a tombstone pizza on the dash" hot!! That 460 was a furnace.
@@markk3652 those Lincolns were great until something broke.
I miss metal dashboards.
I hope Ford is easier to fix than a Ram 2500! I got one acting up now and Ram said it needs a core replaced. It is not leaking so I plan on doing a Backflush and complete system flush before I replace it and hope and pray it corrects the problem because with the 2018 Ram its a dash out job to replace the heater core.
Now make a video showing the joy of changing that heater core…
Take the car to a professional mechanic..... done
I have done one before - never again. Horrible job to do. Ask anyone ... Let a professional do it.
Yeah it's called trading it in for a new ride lol
😂
My memory is a little foggy (probably ptsd), but I think I tried to once and said "hell no" and then very happily paid the mechanic WHATEVER he wanted lol.
Living in Canada,this is very common. There are tools to flush heater cores,something i do on a regular basis. As far as damaging a core while flushing, likely it was already in a weakened state. 100’s of cores flushed and not one blown yet.
Do you usually do it with a water hose or air compressor? I think mine is plugged. I'm in Alberta so I'm sure the outlet for a garden hose is probably frozen. Thinking of getting a fitting to go on my kitchen sink. Or get an air compressor.
@@MrNewff
Hoses off engine or a couple hoses attatched to core and a funnel. Cup of water in funnel,followed with a shot of air. Repeat several times in both directions. I have done it at the car wash, but the risk of blowing out the core is pretty high..
Great video. I'm pretty confident our blender actuator is not working and is inexpensive easy fix for our car. I hear and feel nothing going from hot to cold, but can definitely hear it working and feel a difference with our other car that is fine. Really glad it seems to be the actuator rather than the heater core!
My Ranger had a faulty blend door actuator. I bought a Motorcraft part and the heat works great now.
@@nofortunatesonII Lucky! Ugh ours was the blend door itself was broken which is a HUGE job to replace cheap plastic $20 part. Have to literally tear apart dash, console, seats, heater core and a/c line to access. Horrible GM design.
@@bretb8799 Yes, I can imagine that it was a very involved project.
Change anti-freeze every 3 years, run your heat on high every 2-3 weeks during the summer, run your A/C every 2-3 weeks during the winter.
I do mine every 2 years to be safe.
this ole 08 4.0 Explorer causes me to change my antifreeze every year due to having to change radiator out because it cracks about every year
Curious why - coolant is constantly flowing in the heater core on most cars in the summer regardless if the control is set to heat? AC runs in defrost modes which is common in winter months.
@@bobspreng611 couldnt tell you all I know is that the radiator goes out every yr. I'm guessing because its a cheap radiator that comes from Autozon.
I do mines on a 1993 Ford F-150..302, 5.0 I just got and all my vehicles ev'ry 6 months... Easier than changing out a Water pump, Heater core, Radiator, or worse, overheat the motor, and now you screwed...Antifreeze is cheap...Vehicle parts/motors are not....
That you ,your video is welled explained I will do tomorrow what you have showed us. Once again thanks
Could you do a video on changing the heater core?
I would like to see that too!!
The customer said they were going to deal with it.
@@FordTechMakuloco
I can't imagine why... $$$
$1200
@@FordTechMakuloco I need help diagnosing my 5.4 3v that shuts off when it comes to idle
Hey brian..so my heat works/ gets very hot during warmer days but as soon as it gets really cold the air comes out cold. Heater core? Blend door actuator?
My notifications are "on" but this video wasn't notified...... I never miss one video..... :/
I want to buy one of the thermal cameras that you can plug into the bottom of your phone, I really feel that it could become useful at some points on my vehicle and I could also use it to see where I need to up my insulation in the house
What if both hoses going into the cab are cool to the touch even with engine at operating temperature? I already changed the heat actuator under the dash, I replaced the thermostat, and I flushed the lines going into the cab which were dirty but still only blows cold air. I have a 2006 minute Carlo 3.9 v6
Great vid, going to check my excursion 7.3 tomorrow.
Thanks for your videos!
Hello do u have a video on Cv joints 2004 expedition
By chance have a video on how to flush a 2013 5.0? Seen the clip on replacing the upper rad hose Y assemble. Which was a good place to look for leaks. Though about doing a flush while I was at it. Thank you sir.
If both heater corr hoses are cold and taking off heatercore feed hose and no coolant coming out due to no pressures. Does that mean as waterpump. Also radiator starts smoking. I think its waterpump due yo no flow? What do u think
So with the heater core clogged it will take less antifreeze also right. Would this effect the a/c cooling at all?
As long as it’s not leaking flushing it out is simple enough and has fixed it both times for me in the past
By the time they are this far replacement is the only fix.
Great Video Brother and what's the price tag on getting a heater core replaced?
😊🤔🙏🇺🇸
Depends on the model year. Many require complete dash assembly removal which is anywhere from 6 to 8 hours labor depending on options installed. Right now in CA the average labor rate is $185/hour. Then you have the price of the core, the seal, actuators that you may want to replace since they have to come out anyway, misc clamps, fittings, o-rings, and coolant. Then save up because the radiator and intake manifold will be having problems within a year or so.
While the heater core would cost me $100 the labour was $1100 for total $1200. I never went ahead, and just disconnected the flow from the engine area to the cab. So no heat anymore
I have 06 XL with this condition (blows hard but not hot)I can see and hear blend door actuator shaft moving looking up inside using glove box to view. Also low air flow from defrost vents when in defrost mode. Any ideas Thanks for any input
Both my hoses were hot due to exhaust manifold. I felt the metal lines at the heater core both lines were ice cold. I squeezed the rubber heater lines and could not compress at a few points. Cut the lines open and they where plugged up with anti freeze sludge. Dexcool sludge. I assumed my core was also full of sludge. Replaced lines and core now core lines and core are hot. I tried flushing
Are heater cores on these trucks known to leak? I get a slight smell of coolant on warm starts and sometimes hear gurgling sound immediately after shut down. Like the others, would like to see what's involved with a heater core replacement.
I have never seen one leak on this generation of F-150.
I had a pinhole leak on Durango. It would vaporize the coolant and caused me health problems. If you smell it, it’s leaking!
@@FordTechMakuloco what about the inline valve have you ever seen those fail?
Temp in and temp out test.
I had a pinhole in the interior heater core. The coolant was vaporized and caused me health problems
Good tech tip.
my car has a heater core temperature sensor. should the value be close to the coolant temperature?
Hello man, how are you? Are you on Mayarm? I have a question. I am a mechanic and I want to get an OASIS Ford account pts license. What is the method? Is there an email for them?
I have a 2014 GMC Terrain.
Temperature with my but sure was my heat. Gun is saying a hundred and seventy 52 a hundred and eighty. Go through the heater core at hundred and seventy comes out the other side hundred and sixty five. When you check the vent on the inside only a 100°. Took off the air actuator valve on the inside. Manually switched it to make sure that that wastill working still only pushing a hundred degrees. Replace the thermostat twice as a brand new head head gasket. All the air is out fan on the radiator Kix on and off like it should still no heat coming in. Pulled cabin filter out it was completely Clogged up thinking maybe that was the issue and still only a 100° coming out. Tried everything? Do you have any suggestions or ideas of what I might be missing? Also replaced the temperature sensor as well
My car just had a new radiator put in it, had the water pump and thermostat replaced 6 months ago and the car is a 92 model year, its overheating after driving for upwards of 5-10 minutes and isn't blowing any hot air. Its not leaking any coolant any ideas on what it could be? I dont know when the heater core was replaced if ever so im assuming thats the problem
"LIKE" button has been torqued to the manufacturer's recommended specification. "CLICK"
Thanks, Brian!
?: I’m hearing loud ticking sound on your closeups of the heater core hoses. Any potential issues with the followers here or just a sensitive mic on your camera? 💪🏼
Sounds like normal fuel injector pulsing.
This is normal noise for a 5.4L 3v engine, it actually just had a complete timing job.
@@FordTechMakuloco Thx! I happened to watch one of your vids this week on a poor guy that ignored the engine that gave him 10K miles of warning on an otherwise well maintained F150 😖
If the core doesn't leak, you might try reverse flushing it.
Done that a few times over the years.
With what kind of cleaner? Would CLR work?
I have had plenty of success with that. I just hook the garden hose up to it and turn it on. Just water, no cleaner is what I do.
I have a 2006 bmw 1 series with dual climate, where driver side heating works as normal, but passenger side gets no heat at all. It will get cold, but not hot, which makes me think blend door should be working. Is it possible the heater core line out to passenger side is clogged while drivers side is not?
Just put in a heater core, pretty sure theres no air in the system anywhere. Checked all hoses everywhere and all seems to flow except through the new heater core.
I have a 2004 f150 lariat and im trying to find the interior ambient temp sensor in the cab.
Hey brother off subject here but wanted to know which starter would you recommend for a 2001 f250 7.3 mine just went out
I only use the Motorcraft or Denso units.
Is it common on Fords for the heater hose restrictor to get plugged or collapse?
1996 Mustang Cobra, both heater hoses are not hot. Engine does reach normal operating temp & coolant is full with no coolant loss.
No
How about if you smell weird when you turn on your heater? It blows good heat..the only problem is there is a weird smell.
I don't have a grand to throw away for the luxury of a macanic. My husband and I are doing it the hard way. The amount of hidden hard to reach screwes are insane 🙄
Bought a 99 Ford f-150 five yrs ago, rusty but ran well 137, 000k miles, flushed what I think was the original coolant because Damn it smelled as bad as a skunk!!🤮 NASTY!
Is that the fan clutch making the tick?
Mines making a noise like if there’s a water tank moving around is that a heater core issue???
That is air trapped in the heater core.
@@FordTechMakuloco how do I fix that ? I would really appreciate it 🙏🏻
I replaced thermostat because engine ran cold after replacing it engine started warming up the way it should but still no heat, I realized upper radiator hose doesn’t get hot even when gauge reading is about 230 fahrenheit what could be issue?
Maybe thermostat upside down?
Every Ford truck I have ever owned would fry you out of the cab, so if it doesn't do that, you have a problem.
The only thing that causes no heat on a Falcon in OZ is a broken plastic blend door shaft which is very common but clogged cores very rarely is a thing here in any brand.
If the heater core is plugged up, what does that say about the conditions of the rest of the cooling system?
nothing.
If my car is trying to overheat when I hit around 60 mph.. then after about five minutes it settles and runs perfectly is that a clogged heater core or clogged exhaust ? @fordtechmakuloco
So,,, you don't think it could be the restrictor plugged causing the issue??
No, as stated the line was already off for a direct flush as evident by the worm drive clamp. Did you watch the whole video?
@@FordTechMakuloco Sorry, I missed that.. I was getting a bunch of SCAMMER phone calls.... All day, every day... :(
Ah classic
Sir I need your help I can't get an answer from Ford 1996 Ford T-Bird 4.6 L there are two coolant temperature sensors in the crossover tube of the manifold are they the exact same part numbers or are they different if possible might you have the part numbers thank you very much love the channel
👍👍
Shop location?
why dnt u tell how to unclog it? worth a try before going thru the hassle of changing core
no need to disconnect anything when the diagnostics tell you everything.
@FordTechMakuloco
yea..told u core pluggd up, I'm simply sayin worth a try to unclog
Oh no no no once it is clogged it is over, the passages are way too small.
@FordTechMakuloco
ok bub but ive unclogged explorers & cherokees to name a couple
then why you on here if you are so well versed? Maybe watch chris fix instead he shows how to do simple maintenance stuff.
This is really common yet so many people don't want to flush/change their coolant. "It's 100 thousand mile coolant!" 🙄
Flush out the heater coil
I didn't know Ben Shapiro is a mechanic also!
I’d flush that whole 5.4 to the landfill.
Then prepare to tear out the entire dash and replace it.
1st lol
Good Evening FordTechMakuloco
My teacher FordTechMakuloco
SUBSTANTIAL FordTechMakuloco
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge with us. Thank you
SUBSTANTIAL FordTechMakuloco
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 21.39pm
Brian are you now going to show us how to fix it you know get the heater core in and out
The customer said they were going to deal with it.