Hi Max Having spent most of my life as a mech and in IT I have found that the world is full of video's that are at best misleading and worst just wrong, it was refreshing to see someone who has diagnostic skills and a way of speaking that gets that process across to the intended audience, great video and impressive skills.
Thanks Peter Taplin, I have been teaching apprentices part time for about 14 years, but I find the most beneficial way to hone my skills is to stay in industry part time. That's why I have a little business - to keep me current & up-to-date with technology. I also am the first one to stick up my hand and say that I don't know everything. I have gained my knowledge and skills from years of hard work, lots of training and being willing to listen to people far smarter than I am. It also helps to love what you do! 😊 Thanks for your kind comments If you have enjoyed the videos on the channel, don't forget to subscribe! 😉 MiracleMAX
Thanks for your comments Malcolm, Yes, we were fortunate enough just to have the smoke, but many were not so lucky. It is estimated that 18.6 million hectares were burnt and over a billion animals died. Some of our native animals are now endangered species. 34 people died, including some volunteer firefighters from overseas. After filming this video, we had massive floods! Australia is called the 'Lucky Country' - with all the fires, floods, drought and deadly animals - lucky if you can stay alive! Anyway, I digress....this diesel had me going for a while and I had to scratch the old grey matter, but a simple poor connection created the problem and no start condition. Cheers MiracleMAX
Enjoy your mild weather, Robert! Me, Jealous? Nah! Where I was from originally in South Australia, it was not unusual during the summer to reach 45 degrees Celsius (113 F) for about 2 weeks straight. A very dry heat that would take your breath away. And of course many years of drought, which makes it almost impossible for the poor old farmers. Good to hear from you!
July and August are the hottest months here in Texas. But sometimes we have high humidity which makes it feel even hotter. We usually don't call it a heat wave until the temp gets over 100F.
Hi Max, first up I'd like to thank you for this video and the way you explained everything. I have a 2011 Triton and it broke down in town today, so I got the call from my wife asking for help. I don't know much about the problem execpt to say the motor would wind over but wouldn't start. I pumped the lift pump up hard and still nothing. I pulled off the delivery fuel line and again pumped the fuel, it's running a full hose of diesel but after replacing the fuel line it still wouldn't start. I noticed that within 30 seconds of pumping up pressure it looses pressure without trying to start it. After letting it sit for a while it started and run for about 3 minutes before shutting down again. It also has the "Engine warning " light on but I don't have a code reader. We live about 35k from town and my wife said it run perfactly all the way but wouldn't start when she tried to start it to come back home. Any suggestions as to what may be causing this problem Max, thanks in advance for anything you can suggest I should be looking at. Thank you.
It would be a little difficult to give advice without some more direction. It could be something as simple as air in the fuel system or something more complex. I realise that you don't have a scan tool. But I would be checking for rail pressure to ensure that the high pressure pump is producing enough pressure. Does it blow smoke as it attempts to start? When it does start, what colour smoke is it blowing? You could disconnect the Suction Control Valve as some of them are normally open (allowing maximum fuel pressure) and are pulse width modulated to correctly meter the fuel. You would just want to do this quickly for diagnostic purposes. Start with the basics first - air in the fuel line. Here's an example of how you can bypass the low pressure side to provide a guaranteed, consistent pressure to the pump. Yup, I know it's a Mercedes, but the principle is the same th-cam.com/video/nDb-icPfXos/w-d-xo.html Hopefully that gives you a direction to follow. Let us know how you go. 😉
Hi I am a big fan of your TH-cam channel, and it has helped me out on quite a few occasions. I was just hoping that you could give me some advice. A brief explanation of my issue: My MN triton has gone through three vacuum boost control solenoids since new, so I have switched over to using a Tillix valve which is like a Dawes Valve. This works much better, and the over-boost issues have all gone. Now in my opinion the reason that it chewed through so many solenoids I believe is because of the iDrive throttle controller. I think there is a reason why MN Tritons accelerate so slowly and have heaps of lag built into them and that is because otherwise the boost control solenoid can’t keep up with the pace if it must work faster. It seems like a very basic device to me & prone to failure especially when it must work so hard just to keep up with an iDrive that is making the once slow acceleration now go quite quickly. Which, in turn causes the boost rate to go up & down more rapidly. Anyway, when these solenoids fail they give out a distinctive rap or Tapping noise which is very loud (all three of mine have), and it only appears when the motor is idling and only when it is hot. It is intermittent and very annoying. Now when you use a Tillix/Dawes valve you must leave the OEM Boost solenoid connected even though it no longer controls the boost pressure. But the bloody thing keeps working because it still thinks that it is doing its job, so you still get the bloody loud ticking noise. Now what I was wondering is this; would it be possible to find the ohm & power rating of the OEM boost solenoid & replace it with a resistor with the same ohm and power rating? The ECU would still think that the solenoid was there and if I could do that it would solve my problem with this rattly valve.
Hey Robert, Glad to hear that you are enjoying the channel. Yes, what you have suggested sounds like a possible solution. As you said, you would have to match the resistance to the solenoid. Let us know how it goes. Thanks for your comment. 😉
Hey Ian, Yes, we now have been having flooding for some time - strange but true. At least it helped put out the fires. On the same day as massive fires in the next State, Canberra had hailstones the size of baseballs. Many vehicles were written off by the insurance companies due to the extensive damage. Hard to believe! It's been a wild year. Not unusual for Australia though. Thanks for your comments MiracleMAX
Sorry to keep anoying you Max but I'm trying to give you as much info that I can. This afternoon around 5.30 pm as I was walking past the Triton I thought I'd give it another try at starting. I lifted the bonnet to pump up the pressure with the lift pump ..... but it was still holding the pressure from my last attempt earlier in the day. I hit the key and it started first go. Again after turning it off it started loosing pressure and had to be pumped up again ..... but this time it never started. It's got me stuffed and frusted at the same time Max. I'll wait to read your thoughts, thank you Max.
Maybe you could clamp the outlet hose from the low pressure pump and then after some time see if you can pump it up or if it is solid. Obviously don't do this trying to start the engine. That way you can see if the pressure loss is on the high side or low side.
@@MiracleMAX does the fuel primer always have to pump hard? Mine doesn’t and I e been told that it doesn’t matter if it doers or not. Great work btw. Are you from Victoria?
@@kenezos Hey Ken Ezos, The reason you prime the fuel system is so that you get the air out. Air is compressible, but fuel is not. If your hand pump is not going hard, that means that there still must be air in the system. (or the prime pump is not working correctly). This will create harder starting initially. Eventually the air will generally get out of the system - hopefully. Thanks for your comment. MiracleMAX
@@MiracleMAX thank you for your reply. I have a challenger. Same engine. The primer never pumps hard. It’s been to Mitsubishi under warranty 4 times as I believe it doesn’t run right. They found nothing. Hence why I was asking your location. As I need someone else to look at it. Cheers
Great job! Had a similar issue but found out the wiring for my suction control valve was chipped inside the insulated cover (dont know how that happened). Thinking perhaps the constant vibration..cant get the replacement wiring though
Wiring will be affected by heat & vibration. How many KMs has your vehicle done? You can buy replacement connectors with terminals that you can wire in or you could search at your local wreckers/salvage yard.
I currently have a sportero that loses pressure while driving the diagnostic says its the suction control valve. I have replaced the scv ... truck wouldn't start on the new one ... I will start at the beginning 😌
Hey Nate, What was the fault code? Do you have a good, clean, fuel supply with no air bubbles in-line? Has the fuel filter been replaced regularly? Can you put a clear hose from the filter to the high pressure pump and look for air bubbles? Have you checked for terminal retention (how tight the male terminals are in the female terminals)? What is the rail pressure? Can you see what the reading is in live data? If I remember correctly, there are 2 different types of SCVs on these high pressure pumps. One has a grey connector, the other green (I might be wrong about the colours). Let us know how you go with your diagnosis. 😉
Hi Max, I tried to thank you for your advise you gave me below but the system wouldn't let me send my reply as they suspected it was Scam. I've replaced the first short delivery line to the steel line. I tried to start it and it fired up straight away, I thought I had fixed it. I took it for a 14k run and it run perfactly. I turned it off at home and tried to restart it but it just windes over and wont start. I mentioned yesterday that within 30 seconds I can again pump up the pressure. Today I pumped up the pressure again and held pressure on the pump plunger with my hand and it just slowly bottoms out indercating that it's loosing that pressure somewhere. I've looked for a tell tail sign of leaking fuel but can't see any. Could the fuel be leaking after the fuel line into the Suction Control Valve or further on in the system. As the system wont let me respond to your comment to me I will thank you in advance for any advice you have for me Max.
When the engine won't start, pull off the outlet hose from the low pressure pump and press down on the plunger. That should tell you if you are losing pressure on the low side. You should get a steady pressure out the line pretty much on the first pump. Is it possible that the plunger has a slight hole in it? Or the valving might be damaged. Is the fuel in good condition? When was the filter replaced last?
Your videos are great Max, really helpful. I have the same issue, car goes in safe mode and P0089 code comes up (suction control valve stuck) , and in a few seconds the ESP lamp also comes up giving also some CAN related codes. My Triton has an auto transmission gearbox. I have done all the test your showing and replaced the suction control valve. After a few seconds, engine lamp and ESP comes back on. Do I need to apply learning corrections from the diagnostic tool after replacing the valve?
Hey Kypros Milidonis, Yes, you will need to do a relearn procedure. This link might help. faq.out-club.ru/download/pajero_iv/maintenance/Service_Manual_2008_2013/2011/00/html/M100101440012500ENG.HTM Also I suggest doing a small injection quantity relearn. Here's a video that shows the steps involved. th-cam.com/video/Z6_ru3XxO20/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=MiracleMAX MiracleMAX
great video mate! just a quick question.. I’m replacing my short type scv with the longer variant, is there any need to do SQL or will the ECU take care of that? I know there are benefits to doing so but my concern is that i end up stuck in limp mode (i do have a basic obd tool to clear codes). Cheers
According to the video, the resistance is around 2.1 Ohms th-cam.com/video/Yx4HLuZbFL8/w-d-xo.html I have heard that 2 - 3.5 Ohms would be a working limit
Ok Thanks Max, I have 2.6ohms and pulled it apart and all clean and moving freely, do you know anything else that would cause intermittent surging like a faulty scv would cause? This scv was only fitted 2 years ago with new fuel filter and only done about 10k since then.Thanks@@MiracleMAX
@@scottbrewster4032 You would need a scan tool to see the desired and actual fuel rail pressure readings. Can you run a clear hose from the filter outlet to the high pressure pump inlet? Check for air bubbles. What are the MAF & MAP readings? Are there any vacuum leaks? You may need a smoke test of the inlet system to check for leaks.
Hi Max, I found out what the intermittent surging was, even though it was the same symptoms as sticking SCV, as I had 2 years ago, But wasn’t spitting out any Fault Codes, so started looking for the simple things. Suprisingly It was the MAP sensor plug male connecting pins that wasn’t connecting properly, even though it was properly clicked in, as I removed the MAP plug a few weeks before this issue happened, as removed the front part of very dusty airbox to wash out before installing a new air filter and plugged back in that clicked closed, but read somewhere that the inside these plugs can be a bit faulty with the bottom spring part in female end that supposed to push male pins up and tight so it connects tightly, apparently the spring pressure may not have been manufactured properly and not much pressure and may loose pressure if unplugged, so if unplugged, it might not connect tightly on one or more of the male pins and might not connect properly and in my case caused surging around 1500rpm. So just had to slightly bend the pins up a bit and surprisingly all fixed .So have you heard of this happen before, as I accidentally came across this issue on internet.
@@scottbrewster4032 Well done! Good idea to carry out a terminal retention test - where the male terminal fits into the female terminal. Use old connector terminals to make sure there is sufficient drag to hold the terminals tight. I had a student who had exactly the same problem, but he went ahead & replaced the MAF sensor 'coz it's quick & easy'. I told him we need to diagnose, not load up the parts cannon. After we diagnosed it, it was just a loose terminal. Cost him a MAF that it didn't need.
Hey Max, it seems there are two SCV that Mitsu used on the 4D56 in the triton/challenger. Repco have both VSC100GEN (pink cap $200 odd) and VSC102GEN (blue cap $400 odd shown in this video). In mycase I have the shorter pink cap in my 2010 (MY11) Challenger however searching my model on repco/auto sites recomend the longer blue cap, how much different between the two and can the longer blue cap fit into the housing even though have a slightly longer nipple? Or is there a story there when and why it was changed ?
Hey Timothy, The blue unit (longer one) is accepted as a more reliable unit. However you need a full kit to retrofit it. Usually you would fit what is already on the pump and using genuine parts to avoid any issues. Some SCV's only get replaced with the longer units, but that is determined by the manufacturer. Here is a thread that explains it pretty well about half way down the page. www.newtriton.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=17316&start=125 MiracleMAX
hi max, I have had a scv issue recently,. iv had it taken to 2 places to get the relearn done after replacement (unsuccessfully) so it seems. . and still hasn't solved my issue. although the code has been cleared ( and hasn't returned). my father and I have since discovered that my 2010 pb challenger was equip with an aftermarket chip which we have removed. the vehicle seems to drive fine within 0-10psi...but anything past 10psi it falls flat and makes a strange note from exhaust with rapid rising egt's sometimes up to 600 degrees. (when first having the car would never see over 450). lacking the normal power. would having the chip installed effect the relearn procedure from happening ? also have a throttle controller fyi. any guidance would be much appreciated. cheers!
Hey Mitch, Are you ready for a barrage of questions? Firstly, can you tell me why you think it has had a SCV fault? Some of these use an upgraded SCV. You have to match the SCV to the pump number, but as stated there are upgraded ones available. They also usually have a screen that needs to be cleaned or replaced. Has the fuel filter been replaced? Are there any restrictions in the lines? What are the fuel pressure readings at idle & 2000 RPM? Do you have a bidirectional scan tool or just an OBDII scanner? Is the air filter clean? Is there any air leaks in the intake system? Is the turbo desired readings the same as the actual? Are the intercooler hoses in good condition? Does this model have a DPF? Is there any restrictions in the exhaust? What type of throttle controller do you have? Like an iDrive? I have several customers with those fitted and they don't usually pose a problem. What do you mean by the relearn procedure? If you mean a Small Injection Quantity Relearn, here is one of my videos dealing on it. th-cam.com/video/Z6_ru3XxO20/w-d-xo.html You have to get the conditions spot on before it will work. Some techs are just not patient enough. The criteria to do the relearn is super important, including transmission and fuel temperatures.
@@MiracleMAX really appreciate the response. would there be another way to get in touch outside of youtube? maybe email? I would be able to pass that on to my father and would be able to explain everything much better than myself. we have tried many different things over several months to no avail. Thanks!
I have suction control valve issues truck cuts out on idle have changed scv twice denso and genuine mitsi still have the problem.. Had engine light come on finally said scv stuck but this is the second new scv on it but problem still persists cutting out on idle any help? Have no engine light on right now still cutting out tho thinking about getting another scv but don't want to waste money and time if it's still going to be the same! Cuts out on idle can be random idle for 1 min or 2 mins sometimes it stays running most times not but fires up strait away like normal after it does
What is the actual fault code? Do you have dirty fuel? Have you checked for terminal retention on the connector? What is the fuel pressures on the scan tool - desired and actual? Not sure what your actual code is, but there should be some specs in this information that might help mmc-manuals.ru/manuals/l200_v/online/Service_Manual/2018/13/html/M113350370063900ENG.HTM
@@MiracleMAX thanks for your reply! The code was a p0089 suction control valve stuck but this is a new valve I put on the second one in fact, As of now no engine light on but still cuts out on idle randomly never puts a code up.. Top of my head I can't recall the target pressure and actual fuel pressure but when a mechanic looked at the pressures he said all seemed OK.. I'm at a real loss here I'm not sure if I should just try another valve or not.. I have checked wires and connector looks all OK same fuel I have always used also tryed a fuel cleaner but no difference
@@oozeboy228 Is the voltage consistent at the SCV like shown in the link I provided? Has a terminal retention test (terminal drag test) been carried out? Were genuine SCVs used? There are 2 types on the Triton.
@@MiracleMAX the voltage to the connector was can't remember the exact voltage but was 14. volts 14.5 maybe haven't done the drag test yet but will get on that soon as I get a chance! I have the shorter type scv with the dull pink colour back, I have seen the other type there longer with a blue back I believe.. I have used only genuine denso units apart from the one I put in it not so long ago and was a genuine Mitsubishi unit
Hi Max, I have Mitsubishi Triton MQ 2015, when in P or D and the AC is on and the compressor starts the RPM goes up to about 1100 (normal) when the compressor turns off the RPM drops to 650 and the engine shudders (also felt in the steering wheel) and quickly goes up to normal 700 rpm smooth idle. No DTC. Car drives beautiful and very responsive since changing the intake hoses to silicone. Throttle valve has been cleaned. Any advice you can give would be much appreciated. Thanks. Rich PS when I turn off the the a/c idle as normal, car has done 125,000km.
@@MiracleMAXThanks for getting back to me! I just did a relearn and tested again. Drove around today with G-Scan but forgot to record, the RPM minimum was 350 today. The following video was recorded after the relearn, it didn't fix it. th-cam.com/video/FBBrUK74_J8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=u6tjZAQ58SywdO-l
@@RichieRich845 Is the AC cutting in and out in time with the idle going up and down? Is the AC gassed correctly? According to AutoData, the correct idle speed is 650 + or - 50 RPM. Can you see in live data if both the potentiometers in the throttle position sensor are reading correctly and also both the potentiometers in the electronic throttle body? Have you carried out a smoke test on the intake system? Is the EGR operating correctly? Is the MAF & MAP reading correctly?
@@MiracleMAX Hi Max, Yes the A/C was cutting in and out. At 1.43 I accelerated and tried to hold at 2400 AC gasses correct? No idea on how to check it unless I take it to AC shop, the AC is nice and cold and I never turn it off. What do mean both potentiometer in throttle body, I thought it only had one. I don't have a smoke machine, but I did see a guy on TH-cam using a hand pump and a cigar, that would be more affordable since I only service 5 cars, 3 of mine, one with twin carburettors and two of my friend. I will connect the Gscan again and test MAF MAP and EGR once it stop raining. The ute does not fit in my garage. Thank you. PS I think I did the relearn with the AC on, I will do another clean and relearn with the AC off
@@RichieRich845 You will need to take it to a workshop for any AC related issues. What happens if you just raise the idle with the pedal just slightly - perhaps 800 RPM? Does the AC cut in and out? You should be able to raise the RPM via the scan tool to keep it even. The Electronic Throttle Body has 2 potentiometers built into it for redundancy. I have build a simple smoke machine. I would not use the cigar style as they are very unreliable th-cam.com/video/jZXs1gz-O2k/w-d-xo.htmlsi=8mHQn5fKRokj0HZc
Hi I have trouble code p0089 on my triton 4d56 4x4 add p0299. On first start RPM stays at 2000 very low power,. But when i restart the engine everything is fine. What sensor I would change? Please help thanks.
Hey Marco, I can't recommend just replacing a part, testing and diagnosing should be done first to confirm the fault. I'm not sure what equipment you have, but I can direct you to some testing procedures. P0089 - mmc-autoelectric.org.ua/manuals/eur/pajero/2010/13/html/M113350370019000ENG.HTM P0299 - mmc-autoelectric.org.ua/manuals/eur/pajero/2008/13/html/M113351180007300ENG.HTM I hope that gives you some guidance MiracleMAX
@@MiracleMAX hi Max thanks for your advice, yup the P0299 is turbo boost and I check the hose was damage and I replaced new. And no more error code on turbo.. thanks a lot. But the remaining error code PO089 is still there even I replaced a new SCV . Still low power and the RPM stays on 2. But when I restart the engine it works fine . when I scan the code is still there.tnx max
I got a P0089 error code and managed to replace the suction valve. now after start Idle reaches above 1,500RPM but when the engine is warm check engine light reappears and shows the same DTC. If you have the engine Rest for a while then do a restart Check engine light is still on but runs well for a while. Do I nead to use a scanner to relearn/reinitialize the ECU?
Hey Jomar Carlo, Did you do any testing before you replaced the SCV? Has the fuel filter been replaced? Is there any air in the low pressure side of the fuel system? Have any screen filters been cleaned or replaced? Here is an article that might lead you in the right direction. www.aaen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/CB-SCV-NOV.pdf MiracleMAX
@@MiracleMAX yes we did check the fuel line. I was able to find the solution. I needed to do a relearn/initialize using an obd2 scanner, after relearn problem was solved.
what scan tool did you use to relearn the SCV? i just replaced new scv but still having this DTC. i have autelmk808 scanner but i cant find a relearn function for this.
@@MiracleMAX thx for quick response. Renault laguna 2008 1.5 dci, showing P0089 Suction control value stock in one reader and df1060 Injector rail presure negative loop difference fuel flow regultor in other company car reader, so confused are they both same, is suction control valve different from fuel pressure regulator ? which part need to change.
@@sonalisomani4900 I understand your confusion. Codes can mean different things with different manufacturers. P0089 - Fuel pressure regulator - performance problem Could indicate pressure loss within the fuel circuit. This could include leaky injectors (have you done a leak-back test?), air in the fuel system, stuck injectors, stuck suction control valve, a faulty rail pressure sensor or camshaft wear, not allowing the proper stoke of the pump. Is the fuel clean? Has any work been done recently? How many kilometres has the engine done. Has the vehicle been serviced regularly? I can't actually find a cross reference between the DF & the P code on that particular number. The closest I can find is DF053 P0089 Rail pressure regulation function. I suggest you try testing the items I have listed above to diagnose the fault correctly. MiracleMAX
@@MiracleMAX Thank you so much for giving guidance. around 100000 mi. I forgot to tell you, car don't loose power when it's running with high speed but if slow down then then pickup is slow and once again it's pick up then its go down.. so pickup issue if error shown on dashboard. Also error goes alway after switch off car and switch on again and then everything is proper for new time and again error come. Is any idea to know which part should be check 1st?
@@sonalisomani4900 That sounds like it is going into 'limp home' mode. As suggested in my previous comment, check the rail pressures first - desired and actual.
I have no codes but it doesn’t sound like an L200 should. The real sound of an L200 is there sometimes and then slowly fades away. I can not figure out what can cause the change in sound.
What engine model does it have and what year is the vehicle? Could it be a blocked exhaust? What is happening with the throttle plate at that point? What scan tool are you using? Just an OBDII reader or a full scan tool?
@@MiracleMAX it is a 2012 barbarian 2.5 4d56 175 hp. I am using a snap on solos edge and doing a full scan. The dpf was blocked so we knocked the dpf out and carried out a dpf delete remap. I have not checked what the throttle plate is doing but every now and then it looses power and then regains power.
@@yasser8082 Have you been able to carry out a volumetric efficiency test? If the DPF was blocked, is it possible that other sections of the exhaust are blocked? Is there a large build up of carbon? Is the EGR operating correctly? Is the MAF as well as the MAP operating correctly? Can you look at live data when it loses power and see any difference in the MAF reading compared to desired as well as the EGR reading? These do suffer majorly with carbon build up. What is the rail pressure at that point? Are there any fault codes in the OBDII side of the scan tool? Any history codes? Is the turbo operating correctly? Any leaks in the intercooler? Is the desired comparable to the actual boost pressure? Is the VGT side of the turbo operating correctly? Any spits in the actuator hoses? Thanks for sharing with us 😉👍
@@MiracleMAX it is clear of carbon as the engine has been completely rebuilt so inlet manifold has been cleaned and Egr has been cleaned along with all other components. Also when the dpf was blocked it did not throw up a dpf fault code or light up on the dash. The vehicle cut out and wouldn’t start so we decided to disconnect the dpf and try to crank it and it fired up straight away. This is why we removed the dpf and remapped it but there wasn’t any fault codes for it and it has worked. I have changed the air flow mass sensor just in case and new air filter new fuel filter. Pressure at the rail is the same as target even though it doesn’t sound like it should. Done small qt learning made no difference to the sound. I will check map sensor and egr readings to desired. Vgt working fine and holds pressure - no splits in hose as I have put new hoses in just incase. I have bought a new intercooler but not fitted yet and also bought a new suction control valve not fitted yet. Turbo boost feels good but I will check the desired boost and actual boost if I can. I will check pressure at the rail when it looses power. Been watching a lot of your videos and I got to say your diagnosing skills are magic.
@@yasser8082 I appreciate your comments. Make sure you check the rail pressure under those failing conditions. I doubt the suction control valve would be faulty if the rail pressure checks out OK. Do you have an oscilloscope? That way you can look for drop outs on various sensors (SCV, crank sensor, etc) Have you considered faulty connections? Can you see a drop in the MAF readings when the EGR operates? That is a quick way to see if the EGR is operating when required. Has the fault just occurred or since the rebuild? Could it be that an incorrect connector has been fitted to a sensor or actuator? Can you get it to fail in the workshop or does it have to be driven under load? Your scan tool should have actual and desired boost readings. You can do a volumetric efficiency test with the MAF readings. There are calculators available online. atgtraining.com/atg-volumetric-efficiency-calculator/ Hope you find the fault 👍
Hey Tundag Robert , The code POO98, refers to Intake Air Temperature Sensor 2 Circuit High Voltage This sensor appears to be located in the top of the throttle body. You will need to do testing of the circuit, wiring and sensor before you replace any faulty units. When you look at live data with your scan tool, does the air intake temperature make sense? This is the second sensor, not the one in the MAF sensor. Is it extremely hot or very cold, possibly in the minus range? MiracleMAX
@@MiracleMAX haha 👍👍The more the better. You are doing a wonderful job educating people like me and saving us a lot of money with DIY. Integrity is rare when it comes to garage and car owner relationship so thank you for what you do.
Hi Max Having spent most of my life as a mech and in IT I have found that the world is full of video's that are at best misleading and worst just wrong, it was refreshing to see someone who has diagnostic skills and a way of speaking that gets that process across to the intended audience, great video and impressive skills.
Thanks Peter Taplin,
I have been teaching apprentices part time for about 14 years, but I find the most beneficial way to hone my skills is to stay in industry part time. That's why I have a little business - to keep me current & up-to-date with technology. I also am the first one to stick up my hand and say that I don't know everything. I have gained my knowledge and skills from years of hard work, lots of training and being willing to listen to people far smarter than I am.
It also helps to love what you do! 😊
Thanks for your kind comments
If you have enjoyed the videos on the channel, don't forget to subscribe! 😉
MiracleMAX
Real diagnostics. Thank you Max! Love your work, thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge.
Thanks Kane for your kind words. You might find other useful videos on the channel that you might enjoy 😁👍
Great video, gotta love diesels.
I think everyone in the UK thinks twice now about moaning when it's raining, those bushfire's are shocking.
Thanks for your comments Malcolm,
Yes, we were fortunate enough just to have the smoke, but many were not so lucky. It is estimated that 18.6 million hectares were burnt and over a billion animals died. Some of our native animals are now endangered species. 34 people died, including some volunteer firefighters from overseas.
After filming this video, we had massive floods! Australia is called the 'Lucky Country' - with all the fires, floods, drought and deadly animals - lucky if you can stay alive!
Anyway, I digress....this diesel had me going for a while and I had to scratch the old grey matter, but a simple poor connection created the problem and no start condition.
Cheers
MiracleMAX
Good job, Mark! Man, that is hot where you are! We are fixing to move into spring here where I am.
Enjoy your mild weather, Robert! Me, Jealous? Nah!
Where I was from originally in South Australia, it was not unusual during the summer to reach 45 degrees Celsius (113 F) for about 2 weeks straight. A very dry heat that would take your breath away. And of course many years of drought, which makes it almost impossible for the poor old farmers.
Good to hear from you!
July and August are the hottest months here in Texas. But sometimes we have high humidity which makes it feel even hotter. We usually don't call it a heat wave until the temp gets over 100F.
@@robertcalkjr.8325 The upper states in Australia are known for humidity, the lower states have the super dry conditions. We get it all here!
@@MiracleMAX Texas has all 5 climate zones. We are a pretty big state.
Hi Max, first up I'd like to thank you for this video and the way you explained everything. I have a 2011 Triton and it broke down in town today, so I got the call from my wife asking for help. I don't know much about the problem execpt to say the motor would wind over but wouldn't start. I pumped the lift pump up hard and still nothing. I pulled off the delivery fuel line and again pumped the fuel, it's running a full hose of diesel but after replacing the fuel line it still wouldn't start. I noticed that within 30 seconds of pumping up pressure it looses pressure without trying to start it. After letting it sit for a while it started and run for about 3 minutes before shutting down again. It also has the "Engine warning " light on but I don't have a code reader. We live about 35k from town and my wife said it run perfactly all the way but wouldn't start when she tried to start it to come back home. Any suggestions as to what may be causing this problem Max, thanks in advance for anything you can suggest I should be looking at. Thank you.
It would be a little difficult to give advice without some more direction.
It could be something as simple as air in the fuel system or something more complex.
I realise that you don't have a scan tool. But I would be checking for rail pressure to ensure that the high pressure pump is producing enough pressure.
Does it blow smoke as it attempts to start? When it does start, what colour smoke is it blowing?
You could disconnect the Suction Control Valve as some of them are normally open (allowing maximum fuel pressure) and are pulse width modulated to correctly meter the fuel.
You would just want to do this quickly for diagnostic purposes.
Start with the basics first - air in the fuel line.
Here's an example of how you can bypass the low pressure side to provide a guaranteed, consistent pressure to the pump. Yup, I know it's a Mercedes, but the principle is the same
th-cam.com/video/nDb-icPfXos/w-d-xo.html
Hopefully that gives you a direction to follow.
Let us know how you go. 😉
Admire your Impressive work !
The video is full of knowledge and not boring.
I am not a mechanic and not owning a Mitsubishi. Thx
Thanks Michael Lee for your kind words.
Don't forget to subscribe!
Hi
I am a big fan of your TH-cam channel, and it has helped me out on quite a few occasions. I was just hoping that you could give me some advice.
A brief explanation of my issue:
My MN triton has gone through three vacuum boost control solenoids since new, so I have switched over to using a Tillix valve which is like a Dawes Valve. This works much better, and the over-boost issues have all gone.
Now in my opinion the reason that it chewed through so many solenoids I believe is because of the iDrive throttle controller. I think there is a reason why MN Tritons accelerate so slowly and have heaps of lag built into them and that is because otherwise the boost control solenoid can’t keep up with the pace if it must work faster. It seems like a very basic device to me & prone to failure especially when it must work so hard just to keep up with an iDrive that is making the once slow acceleration now go quite quickly. Which, in turn causes the boost rate to go up & down more rapidly.
Anyway, when these solenoids fail they give out a distinctive rap or Tapping noise which is very loud (all three of mine have), and it only appears when the motor is idling and only when it is hot. It is intermittent and very annoying.
Now when you use a Tillix/Dawes valve you must leave the OEM Boost solenoid connected even though it no longer controls the boost pressure. But the bloody thing keeps working because it still thinks that it is doing its job, so you still get the bloody loud ticking noise.
Now what I was wondering is this; would it be possible to find the ohm & power rating of the OEM boost solenoid & replace it with a resistor with the same ohm and power rating? The ECU would still think that the solenoid was there and if I could do that it would solve my problem with this rattly valve.
Hey Robert,
Glad to hear that you are enjoying the channel.
Yes, what you have suggested sounds like a possible solution. As you said, you would have to match the resistance to the solenoid.
Let us know how it goes.
Thanks for your comment. 😉
Well done max nice diag and fix. hopefully some break in the weather soon very disturbing indeed
Hey Ian,
Yes, we now have been having flooding for some time - strange but true. At least it helped put out the fires. On the same day as massive fires in the next State, Canberra had hailstones the size of baseballs. Many vehicles were written off by the insurance companies due to the extensive damage. Hard to believe! It's been a wild year. Not unusual for Australia though.
Thanks for your comments
MiracleMAX
Sorry to keep anoying you Max but I'm trying to give you as much info that I can. This afternoon around 5.30 pm as I was walking past the Triton I thought I'd give it another try at starting. I lifted the bonnet to pump up the pressure with the lift pump ..... but it was still holding the pressure from my last attempt earlier in the day. I hit the key and it started first go. Again after turning it off it started loosing pressure and had to be pumped up again ..... but this time it never started. It's got me stuffed and frusted at the same time Max. I'll wait to read your thoughts, thank you Max.
Maybe you could clamp the outlet hose from the low pressure pump and then after some time see if you can pump it up or if it is solid. Obviously don't do this trying to start the engine.
That way you can see if the pressure loss is on the high side or low side.
Nice diag MM. Got to love those aftermarket mods.
Hey Nigel,
Yup, great while they work, a nightmare to isolate and diagnose!
Great diagnosis Max. Thank you for sharing.
Hey JustAnother Irishman,
Great to hear from you!
Thanks for your comments
@@MiracleMAX does the fuel primer always have to pump hard? Mine doesn’t and I e been told that it doesn’t matter if it doers or not. Great work btw.
Are you from Victoria?
@@kenezos Hey Ken Ezos,
The reason you prime the fuel system is so that you get the air out. Air is compressible, but fuel is not. If your hand pump is not going hard, that means that there still must be air in the system. (or the prime pump is not working correctly). This will create harder starting initially. Eventually the air will generally get out of the system - hopefully.
Thanks for your comment.
MiracleMAX
@@MiracleMAX thank you for your reply. I have a challenger. Same engine. The primer never pumps hard. It’s been to Mitsubishi under warranty 4 times as I believe it doesn’t run right. They found nothing. Hence why I was asking your location. As I need someone else to look at it. Cheers
@@kenezos Sorry - NSW
Great job! Had a similar issue but found out the wiring for my suction control valve was chipped inside the insulated cover (dont know how that happened). Thinking perhaps the constant vibration..cant get the replacement wiring though
Wiring will be affected by heat & vibration. How many KMs has your vehicle done?
You can buy replacement connectors with terminals that you can wire in or you could search at your local wreckers/salvage yard.
I currently have a sportero that loses pressure while driving the diagnostic says its the suction control valve. I have replaced the scv ... truck wouldn't start on the new one ... I will start at the beginning 😌
Hey Nate,
What was the fault code? Do you have a good, clean, fuel supply with no air bubbles in-line? Has the fuel filter been replaced regularly? Can you put a clear hose from the filter to the high pressure pump and look for air bubbles?
Have you checked for terminal retention (how tight the male terminals are in the female terminals)? What is the rail pressure? Can you see what the reading is in live data?
If I remember correctly, there are 2 different types of SCVs on these high pressure pumps. One has a grey connector, the other green (I might be wrong about the colours).
Let us know how you go with your diagnosis. 😉
Hi Max, I tried to thank you for your advise you gave me below but the system wouldn't let me send my reply as they suspected it was Scam. I've replaced the first short delivery line to the steel line. I tried to start it and it fired up straight away, I thought I had fixed it. I took it for a 14k run and it run perfactly. I turned it off at home and tried to restart it but it just windes over and wont start. I mentioned yesterday that within 30 seconds I can again pump up the pressure. Today I pumped up the pressure again and held pressure on the pump plunger with my hand and it just slowly bottoms out indercating that it's loosing that pressure somewhere. I've looked for a tell tail sign of leaking fuel but can't see any. Could the fuel be leaking after the fuel line into the Suction Control Valve or further on in the system. As the system wont let me respond to your comment to me I will thank you in advance for any advice you have for me Max.
When the engine won't start, pull off the outlet hose from the low pressure pump and press down on the plunger. That should tell you if you are losing pressure on the low side. You should get a steady pressure out the line pretty much on the first pump.
Is it possible that the plunger has a slight hole in it? Or the valving might be damaged.
Is the fuel in good condition?
When was the filter replaced last?
Your videos are great Max, really helpful. I have the same issue, car goes in safe mode and P0089 code comes up (suction control valve stuck) , and in a few seconds the ESP lamp also comes up giving also some CAN related codes. My Triton has an auto transmission gearbox. I have done all the test your showing and replaced the suction control valve. After a few seconds, engine lamp and ESP comes back on. Do I need to apply learning corrections from the diagnostic tool after replacing the valve?
Hey Kypros Milidonis,
Yes, you will need to do a relearn procedure. This link might help.
faq.out-club.ru/download/pajero_iv/maintenance/Service_Manual_2008_2013/2011/00/html/M100101440012500ENG.HTM
Also I suggest doing a small injection quantity relearn. Here's a video that shows the steps involved.
th-cam.com/video/Z6_ru3XxO20/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=MiracleMAX
MiracleMAX
great video mate! just a quick question.. I’m replacing my short type scv with the longer variant, is there any need to do SQL or will the ECU take care of that? I know there are benefits to doing so but my concern is that i end up stuck in limp mode (i do have a basic obd tool to clear codes). Cheers
A relearn should be done any time anything has been changed in the fuel area. You will need a bi-directional scan tool to carry out the procedure.
Hi Max, could you please be able to tell me the min-max ohms range for the suction control valves for the 2010 MN 4D56 Tritons. Thanks
According to the video, the resistance is around 2.1 Ohms
th-cam.com/video/Yx4HLuZbFL8/w-d-xo.html
I have heard that 2 - 3.5 Ohms would be a working limit
Ok Thanks Max, I have 2.6ohms and pulled it apart and all clean and moving freely, do you know anything else that would cause intermittent surging like a faulty scv would cause? This scv was only fitted 2 years ago with new fuel filter and only done about 10k since then.Thanks@@MiracleMAX
@@scottbrewster4032 You would need a scan tool to see the desired and actual fuel rail pressure readings. Can you run a clear hose from the filter outlet to the high pressure pump inlet? Check for air bubbles. What are the MAF & MAP readings? Are there any vacuum leaks? You may need a smoke test of the inlet system to check for leaks.
Hi Max, I found out what the intermittent surging was, even though it was the same symptoms as sticking SCV, as I had 2 years ago, But wasn’t spitting out any Fault Codes, so started looking for the simple things. Suprisingly It was the MAP sensor plug male connecting pins that wasn’t connecting properly, even though it was properly clicked in, as I removed the MAP plug a few weeks before this issue happened, as removed the front part of very dusty airbox to wash out before installing a new air filter and plugged back in that clicked closed, but read somewhere that the inside these plugs can be a bit faulty with the bottom spring part in female end that supposed to push male pins up and tight so it connects tightly, apparently the spring pressure may not have been manufactured properly and not much pressure and may loose pressure if unplugged, so if unplugged, it might not connect tightly on one or more of the male pins and might not connect properly and in my case caused surging around 1500rpm. So just had to slightly bend the pins up a bit and surprisingly all fixed .So have you heard of this happen before, as I accidentally came across this issue on internet.
@@scottbrewster4032 Well done! Good idea to carry out a terminal retention test - where the male terminal fits into the female terminal. Use old connector terminals to make sure there is sufficient drag to hold the terminals tight. I had a student who had exactly the same problem, but he went ahead & replaced the MAF sensor 'coz it's quick & easy'. I told him we need to diagnose, not load up the parts cannon. After we diagnosed it, it was just a loose terminal. Cost him a MAF that it didn't need.
Hey Max, it seems there are two SCV that Mitsu used on the 4D56 in the triton/challenger.
Repco have both VSC100GEN (pink cap $200 odd) and VSC102GEN (blue cap $400 odd shown in this video).
In mycase I have the shorter pink cap in my 2010 (MY11) Challenger however searching my model on repco/auto sites recomend the longer blue cap, how much different between the two and can the longer blue cap fit into the housing even though have a slightly longer nipple? Or is there a story there when and why it was changed ?
Hey Timothy,
The blue unit (longer one) is accepted as a more reliable unit. However you need a full kit to retrofit it. Usually you would fit what is already on the pump and using genuine parts to avoid any issues.
Some SCV's only get replaced with the longer units, but that is determined by the manufacturer.
Here is a thread that explains it pretty well about half way down the page.
www.newtriton.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=17316&start=125
MiracleMAX
hi max, I have had a scv issue recently,. iv had it taken to 2 places to get the relearn done after replacement (unsuccessfully) so it seems. . and still hasn't solved my issue. although the code has been cleared ( and hasn't returned). my father and I have since discovered that my 2010 pb challenger was equip with an aftermarket chip which we have removed. the vehicle seems to drive fine within 0-10psi...but anything past 10psi it falls flat and makes a strange note from exhaust with rapid rising egt's sometimes up to 600 degrees. (when first having the car would never see over 450). lacking the normal power. would having the chip installed effect the relearn procedure from happening ? also have a throttle controller fyi. any guidance would be much appreciated. cheers!
Hey Mitch,
Are you ready for a barrage of questions?
Firstly, can you tell me why you think it has had a SCV fault? Some of these use an upgraded SCV. You have to match the SCV to the pump number, but as stated there are upgraded ones available. They also usually have a screen that needs to be cleaned or replaced.
Has the fuel filter been replaced? Are there any restrictions in the lines?
What are the fuel pressure readings at idle & 2000 RPM?
Do you have a bidirectional scan tool or just an OBDII scanner?
Is the air filter clean? Is there any air leaks in the intake system? Is the turbo desired readings the same as the actual? Are the intercooler hoses in good condition?
Does this model have a DPF? Is there any restrictions in the exhaust?
What type of throttle controller do you have? Like an iDrive? I have several customers with those fitted and they don't usually pose a problem.
What do you mean by the relearn procedure? If you mean a Small Injection Quantity Relearn, here is one of my videos dealing on it. th-cam.com/video/Z6_ru3XxO20/w-d-xo.html
You have to get the conditions spot on before it will work. Some techs are just not patient enough. The criteria to do the relearn is super important, including transmission and fuel temperatures.
@@MiracleMAX really appreciate the response. would there be another way to get in touch outside of youtube? maybe email? I would be able to pass that on to my father and would be able to explain everything much better than myself. we have tried many different things over several months to no avail. Thanks!
@@CasuallyUnorthodox Hey Mitch, You can find my Email address on my home TH-cam page under the tab 'About'. This is not available on the phone app.
I have suction control valve issues truck cuts out on idle have changed scv twice denso and genuine mitsi still have the problem.. Had engine light come on finally said scv stuck but this is the second new scv on it but problem still persists cutting out on idle any help? Have no engine light on right now still cutting out tho thinking about getting another scv but don't want to waste money and time if it's still going to be the same! Cuts out on idle can be random idle for 1 min or 2 mins sometimes it stays running most times not but fires up strait away like normal after it does
What is the actual fault code? Do you have dirty fuel? Have you checked for terminal retention on the connector? What is the fuel pressures on the scan tool - desired and actual?
Not sure what your actual code is, but there should be some specs in this information that might help
mmc-manuals.ru/manuals/l200_v/online/Service_Manual/2018/13/html/M113350370063900ENG.HTM
@@MiracleMAX thanks for your reply! The code was a p0089 suction control valve stuck but this is a new valve I put on the second one in fact, As of now no engine light on but still cuts out on idle randomly never puts a code up.. Top of my head I can't recall the target pressure and actual fuel pressure but when a mechanic looked at the pressures he said all seemed OK.. I'm at a real loss here I'm not sure if I should just try another valve or not.. I have checked wires and connector looks all OK same fuel I have always used also tryed a fuel cleaner but no difference
@@oozeboy228 Is the voltage consistent at the SCV like shown in the link I provided? Has a terminal retention test (terminal drag test) been carried out? Were genuine SCVs used? There are 2 types on the Triton.
@@MiracleMAX the voltage to the connector was can't remember the exact voltage but was 14. volts 14.5 maybe haven't done the drag test yet but will get on that soon as I get a chance!
I have the shorter type scv with the dull pink colour back, I have seen the other type there longer with a blue back I believe.. I have used only genuine denso units apart from the one I put in it not so long ago and was a genuine Mitsubishi unit
Hi Max, I have Mitsubishi Triton MQ 2015, when in P or D and the AC is on and the compressor starts the RPM goes up to about 1100 (normal) when the compressor turns off the RPM drops to 650 and the engine shudders (also felt in the steering wheel) and quickly goes up to normal 700 rpm smooth idle. No DTC. Car drives beautiful and very responsive since changing the intake hoses to silicone. Throttle valve has been cleaned. Any advice you can give would be much appreciated.
Thanks.
Rich
PS when I turn off the the a/c idle as normal, car has done 125,000km.
Hey Rich,
Have you done a throttle body relearn?
@@MiracleMAXThanks for getting back to me! I just did a relearn and tested again. Drove around today with G-Scan but forgot to record, the RPM minimum was 350 today.
The following video was recorded after the relearn, it didn't fix it.
th-cam.com/video/FBBrUK74_J8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=u6tjZAQ58SywdO-l
@@RichieRich845 Is the AC cutting in and out in time with the idle going up and down? Is the AC gassed correctly? According to AutoData, the correct idle speed is 650 + or - 50 RPM.
Can you see in live data if both the potentiometers in the throttle position sensor are reading correctly and also both the potentiometers in the electronic throttle body?
Have you carried out a smoke test on the intake system? Is the EGR operating correctly? Is the MAF & MAP reading correctly?
@@MiracleMAX Hi Max,
Yes the A/C was cutting in and out. At 1.43 I accelerated and tried to hold at 2400
AC gasses correct? No idea on how to check it unless I take it to AC shop, the AC is nice and cold and I never turn it off.
What do mean both potentiometer in throttle body, I thought it only had one.
I don't have a smoke machine, but I did see a guy on TH-cam using a hand pump and a cigar, that would be more affordable since I only service 5 cars, 3 of mine, one with twin carburettors and two of my friend.
I will connect the Gscan again and test MAF MAP and EGR once it stop raining. The ute does not fit in my garage.
Thank you.
PS I think I did the relearn with the AC on, I will do another clean and relearn with the AC off
@@RichieRich845 You will need to take it to a workshop for any AC related issues.
What happens if you just raise the idle with the pedal just slightly - perhaps 800 RPM? Does the AC cut in and out? You should be able to raise the RPM via the scan tool to keep it even.
The Electronic Throttle Body has 2 potentiometers built into it for redundancy.
I have build a simple smoke machine. I would not use the cigar style as they are very unreliable th-cam.com/video/jZXs1gz-O2k/w-d-xo.htmlsi=8mHQn5fKRokj0HZc
Hi I have trouble code p0089 on my triton 4d56 4x4 add p0299. On first start RPM stays at 2000 very low power,. But when i restart the engine everything is fine. What sensor I would change? Please help thanks.
Hey Marco,
I can't recommend just replacing a part, testing and diagnosing should be done first to confirm the fault. I'm not sure what equipment you have, but I can direct you to some testing procedures.
P0089 -
mmc-autoelectric.org.ua/manuals/eur/pajero/2010/13/html/M113350370019000ENG.HTM
P0299 -
mmc-autoelectric.org.ua/manuals/eur/pajero/2008/13/html/M113351180007300ENG.HTM
I hope that gives you some guidance
MiracleMAX
@@MiracleMAX hi Max thanks for your advice, yup the P0299 is turbo boost and I check the hose was damage and I replaced new. And no more error code on turbo.. thanks a lot. But the remaining error code PO089 is still there even I replaced a new SCV . Still low power and the RPM stays on 2. But when I restart the engine it works fine . when I scan the code is still there.tnx max
@@marcolucero9686 What are your desired and actual fuel rail pressure readings in 'live data' on the scan tool?
I got a P0089 error code and managed to replace the suction valve. now after start Idle reaches above 1,500RPM but when the engine is warm check engine light reappears and shows the same DTC. If you have the engine Rest for a while then do a restart Check engine light is still on but runs well for a while.
Do I nead to use a scanner to relearn/reinitialize the ECU?
Hey Jomar Carlo,
Did you do any testing before you replaced the SCV? Has the fuel filter been replaced? Is there any air in the low pressure side of the fuel system? Have any screen filters been cleaned or replaced?
Here is an article that might lead you in the right direction.
www.aaen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/CB-SCV-NOV.pdf
MiracleMAX
@@MiracleMAX yes we did check the fuel line. I was able to find the solution. I needed to do a relearn/initialize using an obd2 scanner, after relearn problem was solved.
@@jomsmd Well done! Glad you were able to find the solution & share with us. 😊
what scan tool did you use to relearn the SCV? i just replaced new scv but still having this DTC. i have autelmk808 scanner but i cant find a relearn function for this.
is suction control valve different from fuel pressure regulator ? are they different parts.?
They can be called the same. What issues are you having & what vehicle?
@@MiracleMAX thx for quick response. Renault laguna 2008 1.5 dci, showing P0089 Suction control value stock in one reader and df1060 Injector rail presure negative loop difference fuel flow regultor in other company car reader, so confused are they both same, is suction control valve different from fuel pressure regulator ? which part need to change.
@@sonalisomani4900 I understand your confusion. Codes can mean different things with different manufacturers.
P0089 - Fuel pressure regulator - performance problem
Could indicate pressure loss within the fuel circuit. This could include leaky injectors (have you done a leak-back test?), air in the fuel system, stuck injectors, stuck suction control valve, a faulty rail pressure sensor or camshaft wear, not allowing the proper stoke of the pump.
Is the fuel clean? Has any work been done recently? How many kilometres has the engine done. Has the vehicle been serviced regularly?
I can't actually find a cross reference between the DF & the P code on that particular number. The closest I can find is DF053 P0089 Rail pressure regulation function.
I suggest you try testing the items I have listed above to diagnose the fault correctly.
MiracleMAX
@@MiracleMAX Thank you so much for giving guidance. around 100000 mi. I forgot to tell you, car don't loose power when it's running with high speed but if slow down then then pickup is slow and once again it's pick up then its go down.. so pickup issue if error shown on dashboard. Also error goes alway after switch off car and switch on again and then everything is proper for new time and again error come. Is any idea to know which part should be check 1st?
@@sonalisomani4900 That sounds like it is going into 'limp home' mode.
As suggested in my previous comment, check the rail pressures first - desired and actual.
I have no codes but it doesn’t sound like an L200 should. The real sound of an L200 is there sometimes and then slowly fades away.
I can not figure out what can cause the change in sound.
What engine model does it have and what year is the vehicle? Could it be a blocked exhaust? What is happening with the throttle plate at that point? What scan tool are you using? Just an OBDII reader or a full scan tool?
@@MiracleMAX it is a 2012 barbarian 2.5 4d56 175 hp.
I am using a snap on solos edge and doing a full scan.
The dpf was blocked so we knocked the dpf out and carried out a dpf delete remap.
I have not checked what the throttle plate is doing but every now and then it looses power and then regains power.
@@yasser8082 Have you been able to carry out a volumetric efficiency test? If the DPF was blocked, is it possible that other sections of the exhaust are blocked? Is there a large build up of carbon? Is the EGR operating correctly? Is the MAF as well as the MAP operating correctly? Can you look at live data when it loses power and see any difference in the MAF reading compared to desired as well as the EGR reading? These do suffer majorly with carbon build up. What is the rail pressure at that point? Are there any fault codes in the OBDII side of the scan tool? Any history codes? Is the turbo operating correctly? Any leaks in the intercooler? Is the desired comparable to the actual boost pressure? Is the VGT side of the turbo operating correctly? Any spits in the actuator hoses?
Thanks for sharing with us 😉👍
@@MiracleMAX it is clear of carbon as the engine has been completely rebuilt so inlet manifold has been cleaned and Egr has been cleaned along with all other components.
Also when the dpf was blocked it did not throw up a dpf fault code or light up on the dash.
The vehicle cut out and wouldn’t start so we decided to disconnect the dpf and try to crank it and it fired up straight away. This is why we removed the dpf and remapped it but there wasn’t any fault codes for it and it has worked.
I have changed the air flow mass sensor just in case and new air filter new fuel filter. Pressure at the rail is the same as target even though it doesn’t sound like it should.
Done small qt learning made no difference to the sound.
I will check map sensor and egr readings to desired.
Vgt working fine and holds pressure - no splits in hose as I have put new hoses in just incase.
I have bought a new intercooler but not fitted yet and also bought a new suction control valve not fitted yet.
Turbo boost feels good but I will check the desired boost and actual boost if I can.
I will check pressure at the rail when it looses power.
Been watching a lot of your videos and I got to say your diagnosing skills are magic.
@@yasser8082 I appreciate your comments. Make sure you check the rail pressure under those failing conditions. I doubt the suction control valve would be faulty if the rail pressure checks out OK. Do you have an oscilloscope? That way you can look for drop outs on various sensors (SCV, crank sensor, etc) Have you considered faulty connections?
Can you see a drop in the MAF readings when the EGR operates? That is a quick way to see if the EGR is operating when required.
Has the fault just occurred or since the rebuild? Could it be that an incorrect connector has been fitted to a sensor or actuator? Can you get it to fail in the workshop or does it have to be driven under load?
Your scan tool should have actual and desired boost readings.
You can do a volumetric efficiency test with the MAF readings. There are calculators available online.
atgtraining.com/atg-volumetric-efficiency-calculator/
Hope you find the fault 👍
I scan POO98 codes....fuel pressure regulator a performance.......what is the problem....what sensor I need to replace... please help me....
Hey Tundag Robert
,
The code POO98, refers to Intake Air Temperature Sensor 2 Circuit High Voltage
This sensor appears to be located in the top of the throttle body. You will need to do testing of the circuit, wiring and sensor before you replace any faulty units.
When you look at live data with your scan tool, does the air intake temperature make sense? This is the second sensor, not the one in the MAF sensor.
Is it extremely hot or very cold, possibly in the minus range?
MiracleMAX
Btw, what scan tool are you using?
That there my friend, is the GScan 3! It's a pretty impressive unit.
Can I ask... please help me my problem about my car.. Mitsubishi strada...
Please provide some more details of the vehicle, engine size and testing that you have done so far.
great video. problem solved
So what was your fault - a suction control valve?
Also im from hedland so its 41 at nighttime hahahahah
Thanks for your comment
Excellent
Thanks! I hope you enjoy other videos on the channel 😁
@@MiracleMAX I have a 2011 L200. Barbarian they are called in UK so your videos come in very handy. Thank you.
@@XIXjlo I do have a few videos on the Tritons. For some reason customers keep bringing them to me! 😁
@@MiracleMAX haha 👍👍The more the better. You are doing a wonderful job educating people like me and saving us a lot of money with DIY. Integrity is rare when it comes to garage and car owner relationship so thank you for what you do.
@@XIXjlo Thanks Mate 🤗