VTEC Repair P2647 Or 2646 (Pressure Circuit Voltage High Or Low)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2024
- Come along as I will show you how to repair a surging or bucking on this 2006 Honda CRV with code P2647 or 2646 pressure switch circuit voltage high or low .This is a problem on most Honda car and trucks. Variable Valve Timing Solenoid replacement (VVT).
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Anybody who spends 30+ minutes on a very informational video like this. Deserves a like & subscription. Bonus points for the test drive footage afterwards!
Thank you for kind words. All too often on TH-cam you hear negative comments and thanks for the sub.
It's not always the VTEC Solenoid assembly. Sometimes it's the connector TO the assembly. The rubber grommet on the connection can get aged and susceptible to moisture, creating the very same scenario - especially and almost exclusively in wet weather.
I think that is exactly my problem. My element will throw p2646 every time I drive it in the rain . I’ve changed the whole vtec solenoid assembly 3 times already and it still happens every time it rains. Is there a way to order a new connector?
@@KRiSXC0RE try cleaning with eletronic spray, i might have to do that as well
What about cold weather?
Ive changed the vtec solenoid assembly, the connectors to it, the oil/oil filter, ive tried putting seafoam through it. Ive got the same rocker arms stuck open/closed codes that could be a million things.
This piece of shit vtec system is just not worth the trouble... probably gonna scrap it and get what I can
@@rickytrevino8281 damn did u clear them after? If all of those didnt fix it then likely the rocker arm itself broke somewhere. And at that point, yea not worth it sorry fam
I had given up. Was about to put the old solenoid back on and take it to a mechanic. You explained to not fix anything, just replace the whole part, so I did! Issue is resolved, running like a champ, again. 367,000 miles!!! Thank yo!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Where did u get the whole piece at?
I usually go to O’Reilly Auto Parts? That was a couple years ago? Probably there?
For the vtec actuator?
@@Gordon47789 did u get the vtec solenoid there at O'Reilly?
Changing the oil regularly and checking the oil level often are the best ways to keep the VTEC working properly. Great video Jim.
I think you are the most amazing teacher, mechanic, human, man.. I love you and your videos. You have inspired me and taught me so much. I am a 50 year old African American female, and I have a Honda Element, and I am experiencing this problem. I actually learned so much from you. I wish I can meet you and I wish I can get more videos that are explained as thorough as yours thank you so much
Engin oil or transmission oil??
Please i have an acura tl 2006 but I can't rev up above 5k rpm I think the vtec is not working?
05 element bucking and jerking downshifting when I accelerate no vtecj codes only P0507 and Abs light on. Also if u have a spindle on driver side with no sensor on it will that make the downshift someone please help no other codes😞😞
Writing this in the hope that it helps someone that is dealing with this issue.
2007 Accord 2.4L. Oil changes were not done on a regular basis. Code P2646 showing only. Car experienced the ‘bucking/stuttering’ past 2500 or 3000rpms, fine below that.
The first thing I did was check the oil. It was low so I added a quart. The issue did not resolve.
Went and got the VTEC solenoid assembly. I changed that out and the car ran fine for about 15 minutes but then the code came back on and the issue started again. Removed the assembly and saw the screen was full of gunk. Cleaned the screen off and took the car back out. Ran fine for 15 minutes and then the code kicked on.
I then changed the oil and filter and also removed the assembly again and it was full of gunk. Cleaned it off again. The car ran fine for about 15 minutes again the code came on and the car experienced the same issues.
Took the assembly off again and the screen was full of gunk. Cleaned it off and put it back on clean.
After this last time the car has been running fine. No code. No issues.
If you know oil changes were not done on a regular basis then it’s safe to assume the engine is full of crap that will clog the assembly.
The first thing you should do is flush out the engine to remove all the contaminants. Change the oil, and filter and clean the screen.
If the issue happens and the screen is clean when you remove it then the assembly could be bad.
If the assembly is new and the screen is clean when you remove it then it could be the harness.
If the harness is new, the assembly is new, and the screen is clean then it could be the oil pressure switch or the oil pressure sensor.
Hope this helps!
did you experience misfire?
Wow. You are EXTREMELY good at explaining things in ways other mechanics think are irrelevant. Its the extra little things like explaining that more oil and cleaning the screen can "possibly " fix the issue as with other mechanics they'd just get straight to it. You're helping a lot of people man. Appreciate your thoroughness, Dont lose that character trait its a damn good one.
I had this same code. Ended up being that the plug connectors between the harness and the oil pressure switch were corroded. I sprayed CRC 5103 Quick Dry Electronic Cleaner on both the connector (female) and oil pressure switch (male) connectors and then gently but firmly inserted/removed the connection to scrape off the corrosion. I did this 3-4 times, then wiped any residue, sprayed and went again. It didn't take that much time. I tried using a few tools to clean the male/female connections but inserting/removing the connectors ended up being the easiest. At some point in the past, the harness connector's locking tab was broken off, so I think this was allowing water/moisture to get into the connection.
Jim, this video is better than any other video's I watched so far. You go as far as explaining in more detail and even mention cleaning the engine where the gasket surface is to remove old oil and any dirt and debris when no one else did. I'm a retired motorcycle technician and machinist and cleaning gasket surfaces is very important. I just bought a 2005 Toyota Element EX with the 2.4ltr engine with an automatic transmission. Last night I drove it home 4 miles then fifteen to work today. Leaving work 500 feet down the street the engine started bucking on acceleration about 30 - 35mph and the engine light came on. Found out the codes are P2646 and P2627. Going to take it back tomorrow for them to replace these parts. It came with no warranty, but I'm sure they'll take care of it. Being a retired motorcycle technician and machinist, they're going to get a tip because it's the right thing to do. It's not their fault the part(s) failed. Also a message came up on the instrument cluster that says "Side airbag off", then turns off and comes on. It did this all the way home.
Thanks so much Jim. I had the P2647 error code, the 3 lights and bucking on my 2005 CRV. I had it into the Honda dealer twice and they wanted to replace a ton of parts to try and find the problem. I ordered the replacement part you recommended and it solved the problem.
That's because dealerships are selling you up on stuff you don't need. I got the whole song & dance that it would cost $2000 to fix and was I sure I didn't want to trade it in.... I do all my own work now.
Yeah thats that’s the way you do that’s why I only dealers for oil changes with a cupón they send hate oil changes just because of the location of the filter,,is a pain and a bit messy ,
Thanks Jim my son and I are able to fixed his car, because of your outstanding tutorials skills thank you so much.
my check engine light came on, car done as you said, started jerking at 27-2800rpm.. Pulled the code, hit up youtube, watched your video, put the whole assembly in, and shes good to go.. Thank you
Where did u get the whole assembly
ebay.. like $60@@stevelocon577
I got the P2646 too and bucking like a pony over 3000rpm...but...the bucking isnt consistent...it will only begin after an hour or so of freeway driving. Pull over, shut engine down, restart it and its OK again for another hour. Replacing the entire VTEC solenoid assembly today. Went ahead and paid for genuine Honda part.
thank you very, very much for this video! i am very car illiterate and i was able to figure it out with your help. you’re very talented and i appreciate you sharing your knowledge for everyone! you saved me a lot of money!!
Thanks for watching. Im happy to help. Don't forget to subscribe.
You literally saved my sanity. I have exactly the symptoms you described. Put some oil in it, it went away. Now to find where I’m losing oil.
2:39 that advice shows me he is a good mechanic. I'm sure some of these mechanics would just add a quart of oil and charge for the price of a new solenoid. Thanks for posting this sir.
Thanks, Jim. I'm a mechanic by trade and was a bit nervous before watching your video. The light came on today in my personal car, my oh crap went to Okay. Thanks again.
I owe you a sincere THANK YOU. Your simple mention to check the oil level solved the problem and likely saved my engine.
I just had the oil change 2 weeks ago at Walmart and they obviously screwed up and didn’t add the oil!
Everything was dry underneath and they added the oil necessary(check engine light immediately disappeared). They also have the obd printout and if any issues turn up going forward they said they will cover the cost.
As another note, the cruise control would not engage and that was my first indication something was wrong and the rumble shortly thereafter…
Thanks again for this video!
Wow you could have destroyed that engine for sure. I'm happy to help.
@@jimthecarguy that simple mention was so valuable. I really can not thank you enough.
Anything other than a honda wouldn't have gotten 5 yards without oil 😅
@@richardd8352 Update Walmart denie my claim! Stated I could never have driven without oil for 2 weeks. Whatever, DO NOT GET YOUR OIL CHANGE AT WALMART! EVER! I use a local shop and pay double for the satisfaction of knowing they actually did the job they were paid for. Thanks again.
The three 10MM bolts are a bear to loosen and they strip easy. I used a grinder to remove the lip off a deep 10 MM socket so all of the bolt head is gripped. Helps alot. On one bolt the prior mechanic stripped it a little bit I had to use a piece of t-shirt to make it even more snug. They came out easy after doing all that. It can be done.
I heard you say check the oil level,
so i changed the oil since it was due. Now I will return the VTEC sensor
to the auto parts store. if it happens again i'll buy the complete unit.
Great video and Thank you Jim.
Thanks for watching.Keep me posted
You saved me A LOT OF diag money, thank you sir. I had the p2647 as well. All though the oil level on the car was a bit low, i knew the switch/valve was bad because when i topped off the oil, the car threw a few more ABS codes. Once I changed the switch assbly, it all went AWAY! 2007 Honda CRV
Thank you for watching . I'm happy to help. Don't forget to subscribe.
You changed the sensor or the whole vtec solenoid
He changed the entire VTech solenoid, according to the video.
I changed the solenoid and threw the code again. Abs code too. Could it be the connectors?
Thank you so much for making this video. I was able to see how easy and find the part I needed to do it myself!!!! Your instructions were great. Again thank you.
Jim to the P2647 rescue!
It's crazy where they put things and making repairs tougher. I have the Element and it's crazy to fix things because it's hard to get at. In the future car designers have to change their way of doing things. I couldn't change out my air condition compressor so I bought it in a shop and they said 3 hours. He took more than 8 hours.
That is for sure. There is nothing easy any more.
This is an awesome video, very well documented and explained for the DIYer. Thanks Jimmy
Hey Mr. Jim watched your video, on vtec solenoid it was a little bit of a bear because you can't see it well. But got it done. That part is on nationwide back order. No dealer in my area had the part. I called the dealer in Atlanta where i bought the car 16 years ago and they had it.I also replaced my valve cover gasket and plug flute grommets. Thanks for all you do.
more often than not, it's moisture in the connectors. when you open the hood wet on the element, water runs right into them.
After checking oil level, I removed the variable valve timing solenoid and cleaned out the filter in the solenoid, which was full of gunk. After reinstallation, the problem was fixed. Good luck.
Thanks for sharing
Well I went ahead and gave her the good ol love tap with a wrench and she loved that, engine light hasn't came on yet and runs perfect now, thank you sir
Thanks for watching. Im happy to help. Don't forget to subscribe.
@Keltic Ride I want to know too!
Is it still clear? Mine came back
This fixed my problem that I have been dealing with for over a year. Awesome video, my clips broke and will have to get them from Honda I guess. BTW my problem was almost the same but the power would choke at about 2800 rpms no matter how fast you were going. Also it did not happen all the time. But now seems to be fixed.
Thanks for the video.
mine has consistently clogged up and I have changed the complete assembly many times (2008 Honda CRV). what could be responsible for the consistent clogging?
Would it feel like a transmission slip ??
@@hellsingformeinbrooklyn7888 yes
Thanks to you i got back on the road.. thanks for the info thought it was transmission bucking but it was the solenoid
If you’re working on a Honda Element, you can also use the opening in the wheel well to reach the bolts.
gonna try that
IMPORTANT! Don't buy Aftermarket VTEC Solenoid they are made in China with inferior parts. The Aftermarket Solenoid weights 400grams and the Honda original part Made in Japan weights 520grams. I have found the oil pressure switch in the Aftermarket part leaks oil and shorts out the wiring. The Aftermarket is cheap but won't last. Better off buying Honda OEM.
Nicely put. Don't buy the aftermarket always buy the Honda OEM
I only get the bucking in 55-60mph...... I'm wondering if any noise would be associated with this issue....... I'm having this p2647 issue and I'm also hearing this weird humming noise almost like a metallic kazoo, never heard anything like it. Again at the 55-60 mph. Thanks for this video I really appreciate the detail!!
Get your valves adjusted
For anyone that has had to replace this piece more than twice I’d suggest to clean the male and female ends with electronic spray. One of my female ends has a broken latch which prevents it from clicking closed. I’ve replaced the solenoid 4 times with this previous time being the genuine Honda part. I just couldn’t believe that the Honda part broke so I searched high and low and found this solution.
I had the same problem on my element and I got an oem part, and lasted me a few weeks , and it did it again. I’m going to clean my pigtail collections see if that helps. Thank you
@@reytech1786 so I cleaned the pigtails and it was a bandaid on a bullet hole. Basically lasted for 20 minutes of driving and then would fail. Tried to clean it the other day, the pigtail broke off inside the solenoid, cost me 409 at a mechanic to just attach a new pigtail. Honda wanted to do the whole engine harness and the solenoid again. Estimated $2300. So did the repair for the pigtail elsewhere. Anyways, when driving back to Tampa from my parents house it broke again. Car has become a money pit so it has to go.
there is another one in front of the engine...oil screen dirty@@reytech1786
Best guy so far explaining things on TH-cam I got the same problem right now thank you I don't have to go pay hundreds of dollars at the mechanic shops
you’re a freaking lifesaver jim thank you so much!!
I enjoyed the story behind this event during the live stream and now to see the fix made my day. And yours too I'm sure. :)
Amazing what you can find on the internet for free thank you for the amazing explanations and visuals! This saved my life
Happy to help!
@@jimthecarguy your the best!
What about the oil screen under the tensioner? If you don't do them both, the problem will likely repeat itself in a couple months.
Actually the smaller 2nd screen you are referring to doesnt get as dirty as the screen on the selenoid itself. At least that's how it was on my element, when it's time to change your alternator that is a perfect time to replace the secondary screen.
9 out of ten I fixed at dealership only needed vtec screens replaced, caused they were clogged, due to oil not being changed on time, so recap replace vtec screens then change oil and filter first, 9 times out of 10 that fixed rocker arm code p2646 that caused the bucking. Also, vtec, will not engage with low oil pressure, or if your speedometer isn't working. Good luck... always check easiest cheapest stuff first unless you got money to waste, and the original honda solenoids are built well unlike the aftermarket stuff.
Thanks so much for this video. Just finished installing the new vvt spool valve assembly in my 2009 CRV. I used a mirror to see what I was doing.
Jim you're an Excellent mechanic! Great videos.
I haven't changed my oil in 3 years. I just keep adding oil. At 340xxx with my 06 CRV and now I know why it's being weird when I try to pull into a traffic.
Nice diagnosis & repair Jim!
Great video
Did they ever finish cutting down that tree
Hey Jim... this video was GREAT! I don't do any repairs... but you took me step by step. and it was smooth. Code was cleared, and everything was perfect. Its been 3 months and 600 miles.. and BAM! same exact warning lights... jerky acceleration... and SAME code. Give me thoughts on what I should do? Thanks ahead of time!
Same here, figure anything out? Someone told me it could possibly be an electrical issue or leak in the head gasket
Same
U gotta be doing fluid flushes for transmission periodically
@@spadetrilla1516 curious..what does the tranny fluid have to do with the VVT? pretty certian its oil that flows through VVT and isnt connected to the transmission?
@@randywells9676 You would be correct. 😁🧓
On my 07 TSX these bolts were the toughest things to get loose. I only had to replace my gasket because it was leaking. One of the screws actually had some white residue on it when I took it out. I hope it wasn't threadlocker. I was able to best come in from the bottom of the car. Also not sure on this CRV is the oil pressure switch is located below the solenoid but need to be careful. I initially came at it the way you did and the wire came loose off of the pressure switch below the solenoid. Had to fix that after the repair.
@jimthecarguy thanks for both of these videos on this topic. I recently replaced my solenoid due to an oil leak that I couldn't track down. I did find it after I had replaced the solenoid. I drove the vehicle about 10miles at speed and had no issues. I went to work today and got about 15 miles out from home, then I have all the lights come on and experienced the same symptoms at about 2600rpm. What else should I be checking? Where did I go wrong? I have not had a chance to check the check engine code yet, but I can only assume that it's similar to these codes. Thanks again for the great video.
th-cam.com/video/e3bPWwgeO5s/w-d-xo.html
Very informative, thorough explanation of each step. Much appreciated.
Thank you I appreciate that.
I flushed mine good with the Valvoline engine flush, replaced oil with full synthetic and the problem is gone. This is a good reason to keep your oil changed. Also there is an oiler for the timing chain that clogs if you don't keep it changed.
Thank you! This video helped me figure out what was wrong with my son's 2007 Honda Pilot
Another great video! I’ve seen the screen filter of VTEC solenoids with lots of debris/dirt. If the oil and filter are regularly changed every 5000 miles, what else could causing the dirt/debris?
Awesome video! Helped me switch out mine within an hour!
Thank you!
Glad it helped!
Im not sure what happened but I changed the Main Relay in my 2008 Honda Accord and the 2647 trouble code went away.
You literally perfectly described my problem
I have a 2006 Pilot 3.47L V6 which also has the P1647 code, as you are working on a 2.5L (I didn't realise until I almost pulled out a "coil". Where is the Valve Assembly on my vehicle and do I only have one or is there another?
I also have ECU failures: 83 - PGM-FI Relation Failure, 86 - Global CAN Comm failure and 112-1 - Internal power source of ECU failure.
I thought I was getting a great deal on this used Pilot ($ 1K.) but it seems to be adding up quickly.
Thank you,
Your videos were recommended to me by a friend at work who stated "the man knows what he is doing"
Good explanation and fix Jim! Thanks!
Thanks for the instructions, Jim.
I have a 2003 Honda Accord LX, K24A4... Car seems to move fine but has a slight noticeable lag before VTEC kicks in. There is no check engine light, but there is significant oil leak that increases as the RPM increases. The oil seems to be seeping out from underneath the oil pressure switch and solenoid. Typically, oil soils the oil filter and the steering rack all the way beneath the assembly. I usually have to add up to one quart of oil per week in order to keep oil level within recommended limits.
I recently changed the gasket between the assembly and the engine block. There is presently no leak at that point.
Should I replace the oil pressure sensor and the solenoid?
OR I should replace the entire assembly?
Does your car jerk when you’re accelerating heavily ?
@@MrJOHNY347 Yes. It did at some point and triggered a VTEC solenoid code (P0406 or something). I replaced the oil pressure sensor on the VTEC solenoid and that sorted things out.
I also did a valve clearance job which sorted out occasional misfires on cylinder 3 which I observed and refused to go when I changed spark plugs to new OEM and checked my ignition coils to confirm they weren't burnt.
Note that I had to do the valve lash adjustment 3 times before I got it perfect. First attempt was too loose, hence noise like a sewing machine. Second too tight but moved fairly without noise.
Funny development lately: My catalytic converter got significantly blocked. I guess that must have resulted from the periods I was driving the car around with the misfire, due to unburnt fuel getting to the cat. As a temporary measure, punctured a hole through the cat and car is back moving like new, with significant gain in power and fuel economy but obviously letting out some smoke instead of the usual steam. Looking for a replacement cat now. Damn expensive shit!! Should fix it ASAP. Cheers mate!
@@braveheartii1534 Thank you for sharing and your reply .You can get a good aftermarket catalytic converter for the right price .Just takes a lot of research .Some muffler shops have them .A buddy of mine has an aftermarket cat and still running for over 15 years .
Other videos exist that explain the diag, actually cleaning the strainer and unit and testing before purchasing a replacement and show the actual removal and installation much better. In this one the camera angles are such that you can’t really see what’s happening.
Your welcome! Obviously you must be a very smart person why waste your time looking at any videos. I see that you have 0 content on your channel. Pathetic
Awesome video. Just ordered the Honda part for my 07 CRV
Tight fit but excellent work and you know going over the speed limit is mandatory.
You make the best Mechanic videos thank you so much
GREAT VIDEO YOU NEED THAT 76 DEGREES TO BE 100 PLUS WITH 92% HUMIDITY
Hi. Jim I saw your video how to replacement the P2647 VTEC oil pressure switch circuit high voltage. When I drive my car some time show check emmion system on VSA. It is easy to say I can do but not easy for self. Can you do my car and how much charge you will take. Please sent me message. Thanks
Usually the screen is just clogged. Save your money clean the screen or buy a new one. New screen includes gasket so that's the best option. 8 dollar part from Honda dealer. Don't waste your time and money on aftermarket!
Thank you for the very informative video. Hoping that I can take the front passenger wheel off to more easily access this assembly on my '08 Element. Doesn't have this problem yet, knock wood.
Glad it was helpful!
Replace oil filter with OEM filter. Fixed issue on my CRV.
Great explanation and detail. I agree with No Name below I just finished putting a new gasket on and it stopped the oil leak and fixed my Pilot.
My code is a P2647 a rocker arm actuator stuck on bank 1.
The did do the repair unfortunately due to the cold I have no place to do the repair it was fine for five days then it did it again tonight. The car would jerk on acceleration. The mechanic replace the oil sending unit I am just wondering if he replaced the entire Vtec solenoid assembly.
I think he tried to just replace the switch that's why it was as cheap as it was.
I would have rather him replace the entire unit for a little bit more. The oil level is perfect.The oil was changed less than 300 miles ago.
Thanks for the info.👍
Yes it is a good idea to replace the whole assembly . I would recommend get the parts from the dealer because the aftermarket is not a dependable. Thank you for watching.
Mine is saying the same thing right now.
This was very good. Not to much talking.. Got right into it..
Exactly what the car i bought from the junkyard was doing
Thank you for sharing Mr. masters Mech...very informative Sir. I'm having the same problem with a used car I recently purchased for my son, it's a standard gearbox but same issue when I bring it up to 3 to 4 thousand RPM it struggles hope this will fixed my problem...
Donald Ramsamugh did that fix the problem ?
?????
I was getting a 2647 and 2646 on our '07 Honda Fit Sport. I checked the oil, that I recently changed, and the level was good. I next changed the whole valve assembly. The check engine light went off. I was pretty happy after test driving it. When my daughter drove it, the 2647 was gone, the 2646 came back, and the car wouldn't go over 50mph like she said it wouldn't before. So frustrating. Suggestions?
Mine can’t get over 80mph and I’m glad I’m not the only one going through ts issue. Probably should get the piece fixed… if it’s still doing it
@@cocoputhyxo No, it’s fixed now. It ended up being the same valve. For whatever reason, it like Honda equipment over what you can buy at O’Reily’s. I suggest using dealer supplied parts. It reminds me of my Apple phone that only uses Apple cables, etc. or it gives me an error. Why the Honda valve worked, no idea.
@@metalmanipulator7210 I was going to buy it off car parts online but how much did it cost to get put in???
@@cocoputhyxo Here it’s a couple hundred (Sacramento). I blew that on the aftermarket one also. In reality, it looks like it should be $50, at the most.
nice work jim think I will come across this soon my way the exhaust valve clearance closes on these too so the need adjustment
Thank you for the video. This exactly describes what's going on with my 2007 Honda Element. I'm ordering a new Valve Spool Assembly replacement. Hopefully, it runs effeciently after the check list
Did you end up repairing it like on the video? Did it work and has it been working? I got the same code and have a 08 Element.
@@aaronyarbrough2867 Hello, yes I have installed a new one purchased through Rock Auto. The engine light is now gone and my RPM is not misfiring anymore after the installation 🙂
Was that a Honda one or a off brand solenoid?
@@davidcutsinger3574 I ended up with the Honda oem part from the dealer here, car has been running better without codes
I have been getting the 2646 error code and went thru two VTEC solenoids made by Dorman. It works fine for a few miles then all of a sudden I get the bucking bronco at 2800 rpms. Any suggestions?
Get an OEM part, not aftermarket like Dorman
Worked like a charm. Thanks
Great video but the ACTUAL fix to the p02646 and p2647 is to flush the engine multiple times because these 2.4 motors get the oil passages clogged up and that is what causes oil to push through the oil pressure switch causing the codes. Replacing the solenoid will only temporarily fix the problem but light WILL come back on. Flush the motor atleast twice and problem is fixed
What about a J series 3.5? I went and took the assembly off and cleaned the gasket on the assembly and replaced the solenoid too to no avail. Last thing I wanna do is get a whole assembly when I just replaced the solenoid and there wasn’t anything wrong with it. Thanks!
SO I did all of that Works great until the engine gets good and warm. (About 15-20min of driving) the Vtec shuts down and 2646 pops up. Engine has high mileage (298K mi) well taken care of. very clean inside. Good compression. Doesn't burn any oil to speak of. any suggestions? My guess is that the oil pump may be worn enough that when the oil thins out ant operating temp there is just not quite enough pressure to trip the switch. The one thing I have not replaced is the Vtec oil valve below the cams. I did clean that as well as the front screen when I did the head gasket a while back.
I have same problem did you resolve
Have you tried replacing the vtec spool solenoid?
Jim, a great video BUT if you remove the manifold heatshield you would have a lot of space to work with.....
Awesome Job on this part replacement.
Thanks for watching
Great videos by the way. So, I had the P247 Code and replaced the entire unit. a few days later I'm getting the same exact issue. Would a bad connection (tiring harness looks a bit frayed) would the oil pressure switch right above the oil filter cause this?
Did you fix this issue? I'm haveing the same problem????
@@davidcutsinger3574 I had a damage wire that was hard to see, but all good now.
th-cam.com/video/e3bPWwgeO5s/w-d-xo.html
Hey. Great instructional video. I’ve don’t many of these on accords. But your video is very nice.
Do you need a stepson? Lol
Any ideas on what else to check after replacing this part and the same code comes up even after resetting the code with a battery disconnect?
@@Methnerjacob mine still good. You figure out your problem?
Ex video as usual Jim
Marco Polo from the Bronx
I would be muchly appreciated if someone could explain to me what to do next if you've already done everything in this video I get approximately 45 minutes of driving before my oil switch or oil transducer that's on this piece is always on the on position even when VTEC kicks in the oil switch still says on I have a Snap-On $2,000 reader that I've used that's my friends so I can monitor both in real time
The assembly what brand was it? Don't tell me Dorman.Lol
@@jimthecarguy you're right that's the name
@@jimthecarguy I changed the oil and put the right oil in even though I just got done building the engine I had break in oil in there after I change the oil the problem completely went away
Doesn't hondas have two sensors, one on solenoid and one rocker arm A
Did u figure the problem???? I'm have same issue ive done it all
i have changed the solenoid(original honda patrts) and the p2646 come out again very soon....my car is odyssey rb1 (japan) with k24A engine, any idea?
Thanks so much for the video. Help me out a lot. Now I just have to do the job.
Glad to help
I change this part on my 2002 honda crv but it did not fix it. Can I do anything else.
Did you ever find out how to fix it in dealing with the same thing
Very good video. Good explanation and visual presentation
Glad you liked it!
I just switched out a new vtec solenoid in my 05 Honda Element and I still have the p2627 code and still jerks..I replaced it with OEM parts..not sure what to do next
Same I just swapped mine on my civic si and it got the code to go away then came back
@@DTuned559 did you ever fix that problem??
Slap-Yo-Momma yes it just went away after I replaced the whole solenoid
Replace the single wire oil pressure switch under vtec solenoid both codes went away fixed
Your video was very helpful for my 04 CRV. One tip that worked for me was to remove the 3 bolts first as that gave me more wiggle room to disconnect the electrical connections. Also, is it necessary to disconnect the battery first?
Thanks
Should not need to disconnect your battery to work on your vetch solenoid.
gonna try this right now on my element. Thanks a ton.
update..... follwed your every step to the T... mirror WAS HARDER TO ME than just feeling around... Great video took me an hour and its running like a top. SEND ME YOUR PAYPAL LINK SIRRRRRR!!!! I OWE U!
Hope you enjoy it!
Great job. jimthecarguy1@gmail.com. Thank you Jim
Good job. My car has the same problem
How do you fit the camera back there? It's a tight space and I didn't even have a camera. I got the job done though. You always make quality videos.
What is the name for the valvule ?
Nice video .good commentary. When you can afford more lighting that would help your videos.
Thank you for the advice and for watching.
I have had this problem with my Element for 3 years, I have changed that valve 2 times sensor 2 times, I didn't know you would get that code with low oil. Thanks for that. But now I'm wondering will you get that code when you have a bad oil leak, even if you fill the oil up to to the right level???? With that in mind should all oil leaks be fixed first. I have spent so much money and still have the same problem. 😢
Thank you for the solution to my problem.
So, we have this problem on our 2005 crv. We’ve done all these steps, replaced the assembly, oil changes, check levels. But it is still throwing this code when the car gets hot. We have exhausted our knowledge which was limited based off of what we could find out youtube. What should our next step be if after doing all this, the car continues to throw the code and shudder around 3,000 rpms after the car has warmed up. Also this car was a recent purchase and at the time didn’t have any lights on.
Thanks in advance
Jim, I just bought an Element about a month ago. Im having some random bucking or kind of. I just removed the spool valve look to be an original one and look relative new. The gasket was perfect with no leaks and the filter was 100% clean. Maybe is the Transmission selenoids?
How do I know if I need to replace this part or just the pressure switch...or both?
Same code but my car doesn’t stay idling it just dies out after about 15 seconds of struggling to idle but when gas is added it revs up just fine but below a certain rpm it won’t idle and die
Probably cam shaft sensor