@@anderleof The engine has lived a good long life and has lots of miles on it. Everything wears down after time no matter how good you take care of it. "Customer states they changed the oil regularly" is a lie you hear a lot of in the industry as well. Or as Wess stated, it leaks oil from just about everywhere. The customer most likely let it run low on oil, because of all the leaks, and the poor engine died because of oil starvation. Most of the time you will never get an honest answer from someone because they don't want to admit that they were the root of the problem and most technicians don't want to waste their time tearing into a known bad engine.
I Stopped wrenching a very long time ago. But, I sure like the way you walk us through the diagnostics on each trouble. You're one of the best mechanics I have watched. Thank you, for sharing your thoughts, and methods of diagnostics. Greatly appreciate you work.
You should look up Ivan at "pine hollow auto diagnostics" ---- another good one is "south main auto"... These guys are both good and I think they are all buddies too.
my friend's 2006 odyssey had the same code, and it turned out to be a tired oil pump too. it was close to 300,000 hard miles (with a lot of towing of trailers along the way). the guy who bought it off of him swapped the engine with a lower mileage one and is still driving it three years later.
As a shade tree mechanic, I love the way you walk us through the diagnostic process. I'm not very good with electrical, which is why I love your channel. I'm always trying to learn .Thank you .
This was like the Bambi of Watch Wes Work videos! Not the outcome I am sure anyone wanted, that is some detroit 2 stroke oil pressure right there. I know why you cannot get to the oil pressure port, because the Japanese do not plan for anything to be broken, I worked with Mitsubishi engineers and it was clear that they did not want to ever make a mistake or a bad decision, they would take weeks or months sometimes to come back with an answer to solve a problem.
do American's plan for anything to break? I had an s10 that made 5psi of oil pressure at idle when warm, the pump was good, but the cam bearings were likely shot. I've had 2 different GM 3.8's that blew head gaskets at 100k miles. My dad had a dodge ram with the v10 that welded to of its spark plugs into the head. The only vehicles I've had that outran my Japanese made ones were volvo 740's. The old redblocks didn't make a lot of power, they were not light nor were they easy on gas...but they never stopped running. I had one that the oil change was so long over due, that the oil would freeze in the oil pan...every startup that winter for a good couple of months was basically with very little oil. It didn't hurt it one bit.
@@darylball4717 Same here nothing but GM in my stable, (02 and 04 Silverado2500HD's, 04 Cadillac Deville, and 03 Oldsmobile Aurora) always see TONS of Toyotas and Hondas broke down along I-70 here in SWPA! I have towed more foreign makes than American!
VCM J series engines of this vintage can develop problems with excess oil consumption due to the piston rings fowling on the deactivated cylinders. That would increase the risk it was run low on oil at some point, or even regularly. May have contributed. There was a warranty extension to replace the piston rings, but not all engines developed the problem. Who knows.
@@edwardmyers1746 There was definitely a problem with 35's. Maybe 37's too. There's a TSB about it. People sell vcm "muzzle" disablers gadgets to try to avoid it. Lots of talk about them in the message boards. I have a 2010 Odyssey ex-l that has vcm. No issues, but the tsb and warranty extension applies (now expired). I'm not interested in the muzzlers. If it's ever a problem I'll just do the piston rings per the tsb.
@@jptrainor actually I think it might be something different I'm thinking of, pretty sure my J37 has no deactivating cylinders but it still consumes oil, I think the recall on that replaces pistons and rings
@@edwardmyers1746 I think it had to do with piston design those years. Weep holes on oil return rings get plugged. I blame it all on the outrageously long oil change intervals
some straight 50W oil is all you need! A friend had an F150 3V that started ticking bad from the cam phasers, hated the truck and wanted a dodge hemi. So he changed the oil out for straight 50W oil. Man that sucker was quiet and smooth. Drove it to dealer and traded it in on a used dodge. Dealer called him a few days later saying the 3V blew up on a test drive...
Nice job diagnosing the issue. Honda engines of this vintage had known issues with VCM causing rings to stick and resulting increased oil consumption causing low oil pressure leading to other internal engine issues. If memory serves me correctly there was a class action lawsuit that resulted in Honda issuing an extended warranty on these engines. Not sure I buy the owner's comment that oil changed regularly (whatever that means) given the overall condition of the vehicle. Bottom line - shame to see what is otherwise a reliable vehicle going to the born yard so soon. Only thing missing in your assessment is to have Max take a look at the vehicle and give his opinion. The look on his face in response to your questions is priceless.
Regularly can mean once every 6 months or year to most people who don't drive many miles. Doesn't matter if it hasn't driven 5,000-7,500 miles for the oil change interval for that particular year model. Still doesn't take into account the idle hours most minivans accumulate with waiting to pick up kids, or shuttling cargo/loading/unloading that they see. I agree, "regularly" is extremely vague and doesn't tell you squat about the condition of the engine.
Pretty impressive how close the mechanical pressure gauge and the electronic readout matched. Obviously this isn't a mere bad oil pump. Sounds like every bearing in the engine has seen their better days... Thumbs Up on your video and troubleshooting techniques.
From my experience, a bad oil pump will have low pressure all the time, whereas worn bearings will show change in oil pressure as the engine changes temperature (thermal expansion). Another great video Wes, Thanks.
I drove a lot of junk when I was younger and had some good luck dropping oil pans in-car and rolling new bearings into some pretty tired engines. Not sure if that would be an option here, but it was always good for a significant improvement in oil pressure as long as the engine wasn't already far enough gone to have spun a rod bearing.
The oil pressure switch on Honda is set to something really low like 3 PSI. Also, the Single overhead J series V6 engines use a VCM version of VTEC which basically allows the rockers to free ride as they are no longer connected. The VCM ruins the back three cylinders because you pull oil into three cylinders with a higher than normal vacuum.
Don't feel bad Wes, that owner got his money's worth from that van. He obviously saved money by not keeping up with the other problems like the wheel bearings. Passenger vehicles weren't designed to last like commercial trucks with expected service of over a million miles.
@@calholli like big rigs. You have to understand the dynamics of stop and go city driving vs all highway consistent speed driving. A million big rig miles is equal to 100k pass car miles. There are exceptions. There are two million miles tundras but they are exceptions because they are not on their original transmissions, do exclusively highway miles. Believe he was a Texas oilman who drive from site to site in the region. And of course the reliability of Toyota plus the robustness of it's truck engines.
@@LAactor I've seen 7.3L Ford Diesels that have passed a million.. but it's not common. I have a 2002 F350 7.3L Diesel with 6spd Manual, 4x4 w/ manual transfer case/ manual locking hubs.. and I've passed 330k miles now. It's more of a tractor than a truck. It doesn't even have tilt or cruse control. lol.. Very basic. But it's an excellent rig, that will still tow an overloaded gooseneck trailer up the side of a mountain without trying hard, even with the high miles... but my truck is an exception
Oh believe me, even heavy service engines expected to get a million miles do NOT do that without service. You're not thinking. While a big Cummins KT400 can easily go a million miles, it can only go 25,000 miles per oil change and that's still a lot. It holds over 50 quarts of oil. You should see how HUGE the oil filter is inside a Lubra-finer. I would hope so. But at 25k, it definitely has to have an oil change; all 52 quarts. Believe me. Even their liquid wheel bearings don't last forever, and part of your daily inspection is checking them for leaks. Luckily they show up easily. You must be confused about something. You just don't get a million miles out of a heavy truck. Hardly. You need a 10 ton press just to align the thing, and you have to do that at least every 6 months. And that's just fleet maintenance. I had a big Peterbilt with a half a million on the clock and believe me, it wasn't cheap getting it there. It was 10,000 dollars just for a set of tires on my rig. And that was back in 1982!
It’s part of the “marketing mode.” I’m sure any regular viewer knows exactly what I mean. You’re a genius kid. What ever you do, don’t stop this. You’re helping thousands.
Tired oil pumps and valve lash on these Hondas can cause a garden variety of strange issues. Couple that with ring issues on some of these era engines, and it’s a rats nest to unwind. You’re the best Wes. Thanks for the journey.
15 year Honda tech, I’ve seen 2 things cause this problem. Aftermarket oil filters are notorious for cause this problem when warmed up, although it’s normally the 4 cylinders, but it’s cheap enough to try. I’ve also seen one time the screws that hold the oil pump cover plate on back out and cause it to leak. They don’t fall all the way out since they run into the main caps.
I succeeded last weekend on this repair P2647 and it ended well for me on a 2007 Honda Odyssey. Great explanation Wes, but you should not have given up...especially after such a long video explaining the problem well. Like you said, this Odyssey is in limp mode because the VTEC oil spool valve solenoid is seized. With high mileage and infrequent oil changes on a van like this, it is likely the screen in the spool valve is dirty and oil deposits are passing through, interfering with the solenoid and oil pressure to engage and disengage VTEC. The solenoid should be replaced. The gasket is probably bad too which might make a mess with leaky oil. P2647 means misfire essentially, you're not running on all cylinders but luckily you can order a new spool oil valve with solenoid, fresh gasket and oil sensor all together for around $50 on online retailers. To replace that, locate on the right back of the engine block the solenoid facing up. Unplug 3 switches and 3 bolts (bring a friend to shine the light and maybe a breaker bar), oil the gasket, and reassemble. I would be shocked if this wasn't the surefire solution, assuming you have clean and proper oil. Get some belt spray on that thang once you're done because that squeak is horrendous and let the Odyssey continue for many more miles!!!
I just subscribed, you are really the man for difficult to repair vehicles in your area and beyond. I've been watching many of your adventures this week and it's amazing that your figure out so many complex problems. Big thumbs up from this guy. 👍
Thanks for the new episode. I’d rather just thank you for pushing another one out rather than blow gas. Please know that we enjoy your work and learn a great deal while watching the best show on YT.
Hey Wes, just recently subscribed to your channel and it's awesome. You're an awesome dude that does honest work. Just wanted to say I appreciate that there's still some good guys out there.
I remember Eric the Car Guy had a whole series on a Fixer upper Odyssey. VCM problem as well. His workaround was to rebuild the problem bank and mod it to make it full time.
Ended up doing valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube seals on one of these in a 07 accord last week popular engine in lots of Hondas these are good engines these 3.0ls @Watch Wes Work
I thoroughly enjoy your videos. You explain in detail without talking down to us non-mechanics. We just hit 88888 miles on our 2005 Honda Odyssey. As you can tell we don't drive it much. Purchased 10/13/2004 and our first brake replacement was on November 14, 2021. I would recommend an Odyssey to anyone out there as it is very reliable and if this 2007 is any indication we have over 100,000+ left on her.
I wish you could have tried some of those additives on that vehicle. Would have been hysterical to see if anything brings that thing back to life or at least more than 8 lb of oil pressure
The thicker oil to build up engine pressure in order to buy time to figure out his next move is a good suggestion. This car market is really tough for anyone on a budget right now. Finding any vehicle at a decent price depends pretty much on lucky timing. By the same token, Car Wizard up in Kansas has been seeing people spend thousands on old cars because the market for replacement is either sky high or non-existent.
Eric the car guy used some no name additive and it loosened everything up so well it started clogging the fine mesh screens to everything. Had to give her a whole new car. Maybe a better brand of flush would have been more prudent. Like Liquid Moly or just do a high detergent synthetic engine oil and hope that flushes it. Maybe some Ristlone. Some say use 20% ATF and the rest cheap oil and flush. No high revs. Some say 100 miles. Tough to say what's right. But it all seems a dangerous proposition to me. Especially in a very sludged up engine at these high miles.
You know you are pretty good at what you do when another shop sends you what it can't fix and you fix it. (well in this case you didn't fix it but you figured out what went wrong) Thanks for letting us tag along.
Since this was a "sudden" failure, I'd definitely check that solenoid operated valve outside of the system. If it's regulating the pressure, it might not be fully closing when it thinks it's closed, and the oil pump has no resistance to push against develop pressure.
Heavier weight oil story from years ago. Minneapolis, a taxi cab owner would call into the overnight radio show. Like all cab companies, they bought old squad cars. The one car he had, they put gear oil in it for better oil pressure and it worked well for a long time until a uninformed mechanic put in regular weight oil and the engine blew.
Excellent troubleshooting as usual Wes! The engine said enough is enough...sure can't complain about getting one's money worth though as evidenced by the milage.
There are 3 common causes for VTEC codes on Hondas: 1) Low oil level causing low oil pressure (the most common cause, especially on the VCM engines since they burn a lot of oil) 2) Oil pressure switch failure on the VTEC solenoids 3) Sludge plugging the filters on the solenoids or sticking the solenoids themselves. I’m fairly certain on the VCM engines that when it sets a VTEC stuck on code, it assumes that the 3 VCM cylinders are disabled and turns off injectors on those cylinders, so it runs on 3 cylinders. That’s why it had low power in limp mode. The oil pressure light would probably come on if you put it in gear at low idle. The oil pressure light is pretty much useless and only comes on once it gets down to 1-2 psi. I’ve seen so many of these cars roll in 0.5qts of oil in the engine and the only indication of a problem is the check engine light and VTEC codes.
Those engines with the VCM are infamously bad when it comes to oil related issues. Honda 6s with VTEC will happily run for over half a million miles so long as you keep up with oil changes and keep feeding them transmissions to beat to a pulp.
Take her out back and put her out of her misery. By the looks of her she’s led a rough life so it’s time. She had a good run but now her time has come. Good video Wes, your diagnostics and explanations are top notch.
That’s weird. It had over 50 psi when you first started it at idle so I figured the oil pressure was fine. Seeing it drop to 5 psi is mind blowing to me.
Wow DOA. Not what I expected but it is realistic, somethings just wear out. 250K miles! I thought I had put a lot on my old Ford Fiesta at 180K before it finally sighed and died. Great video Wes thumbs up.
Hi Wes, you got it backwards with that screen, the thinner the oil, the more goes through a clogged screen, so it should get better, not worse with getting hot. Dont know about Honda but with VW the dash light comes on under 1600rpm at 0,25bar and above 1600rpm at 0,8 bar. Mercedes, hot idle pressure of 0,1 bar/1,5 psi indicated on the dash is still acceptable with the older engines. I would pull those two connectors, camshaft valve and pressure, put in thick oil, and send him off, customer can ride it down until the engine sizes or that wheel bearing locks up or falls apart. Some more free mileage... Cheers. edit: i would add an hour of labour and take that oil pump out, maybe its just worn out and the root to that issue, maybe the pressure limiting valve is stuck on it. and again, thanks for the content. We still have that 88 LTC that needs your attention, but we haven't been back jet.
Sounds like a dead cylinder? iVtec? Sounds like my brother's Accord that the little spring that returns the intake valve de-actuator broke. That thing ran terrible and smelled terrible. Take intake manifold off and see that the affect cylinder's intake port was full of gasoline. I'm no Honda expert but I did find that fairly quickly. That was a pretty quick fix...new springs. Honda dealer: New engine. New springs were quite a bit cheaper and worked well.
I'm not sure I understood correctly when you said $3500 to install a used engine. At today's car prices, I would go for the engine replacement and some wheel bearings and still be cheaper than replacing the vehicle.
Depends on what the underside of it looks like. If its clean of rust, a used engine might be an option. If its a crusty Northern 15 year old vehicle, junk it and move on with life.
Pity that watching Wes work wonders didn't work out this time but we all get the the end of the road eventually. As my old boss used to say, 'they were all somebody's pride and joy sometime", but that didn't stop him dismantling them.
All J-series V6 engines feature traditional VTEC for added power. The modern versions also have VCM (Variable-Cylinder-Management) to change between 3, 4, & 6 cylinder modes to sip fuel. The VCM versions are extremely sensitive to oil change intervals, & make sure to change that PCV valve. I recommend owners to change their oil between 3-5k miles. DO NOT change the oil when the vehicle tells you to. It will normally wait close to 7-8k miles to tell you to perform the maintenance. Plus, a non functioning PCV valve will cause all kinds of issues too (oil burning).
Could be the Electric Pressure Switch module Pulling in the Spool Valve ... went for Belt and Braces by Changing the Filter Screen , which had been blocked and also the Pressure Switch on top of same... mine did that Limp home story and hard shifting on my 06 Honda CRV MK2... K 20 Series Engine different same Story, that fix sorted mine... Great Upload...
Great job wes they can't last forever eh think they've had there money's worth from it time for it to retire I think great video mate take care man 🔧🔧🔧👍👌
Do you like that M12 right angle impact? I have 2-4 amp and 2-6 amp batteries already. I have been debating on buying one; I trust your opinion. You’ll be at 200k subscribers soon, you deserve 2 million.
Since Wes hasn't used it that much, the Torque Test Channel did a video comparing these right angle impact drivers: Makita LXT, Milwaukee M12, M18, and Skil PWRCORE 12. (March 4, 2022) Edit: they also have a video on the M12 Fuel impact wrench from Aug 13, 2021 (Not affiliated with them in any way, just like what they do and how they just give you the facts)
@@InsanePacoTaco I watch all of TTC’s videos, they are fantastic, the best tool videos on TH-cam in my opinion. I was mostly curious about the usability, I’m not doubting the power.
Warren over at Western Truck and Tractor Repair uses Milwaukee impacts, including the right angle. Those things are used everyday, all day, in some nasty conditions (almost desert like to snow), on JD, Cat, Peterbilts, Freightliners, all the heavy stuff. If I wasn’t invested already, I’d go Milwaukee.
I have an 07 odyssey and when the oil pressure reaches I would say around 60PSI it activates the pin on the rookery arm to the other cam follower giving the cam longer duration. Yes they did have a recall on the cylinders shutting down causing the rings to foul up. And cause more problems. My daughter just drove up from Virginia in a 2010 pilot an when she got to my house in NY the lights came on and she was 31/2 qts low. Yes you have to use the right viscosity oil or it will fail. Mine and hers use 5W-20. Critical !
I have the i-vtec version of this engine in an accord. They changed the suggested viscosity from 5w20 to 0w20. Also, you can disable the vcm by getting the vcm tuner add on plug for the coolant temperature sensor.
I have noticed the more expensive a used engine is seems to be inversely proportonal to the quality of an engine. If an engine is really a great engine then there will be a bunch of them in salvage yards and no one needing one. If a used engine is really expensive, unless it is a high performance engine people will put in for the performance it usually means the engines are breaking more often than cars being wrecked to provide them.
on mine it was the Engine Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoid, it caused the rocker arm issue, a year ago. However, I recently replaced my engine. Paid 1800 labor & parts. Mechanic also replaced both cv axles I bought that were in the trunk.. for free. van has 300k miles. yeah. I love my ody, so 1800, im happy with it. Its running great again.
worn engine, a higher viscosity oil might get them get a few more miles, I'm surprised that there isn't an easy way to check engine oil pressure, especially when it's critical to proper valve control. Honda surprised me on that one.
Bean counter engineering solution. Why use 2 oil pressure sensors, when you can use a switch for the low oil light, that doesn't come on unless the pressure is 0 PSI. Then get your oil pressure reading from your Variable intake/camshaft solution. Have to save those .50 cents per sensor on cost when you're making millions of minivans with the same engine for a 5-8 year period.
@@WatchWesWork they have a gauge but it’s only relays on that switch. Pressure never moves, always the same. It’s just on. I kinda wish it could be converted to a real gauge.
Thick oil might be a bandaid, but that engine is just worn out. Even if you attempted the bandaid, you might have to find a way to disable the cylinder deactivation to prevent it from cutting fuel from the rear bank. Waste of time messing with that engine in my opinion.
Thanks for your detailed videos. Your square Chevy is exactly like the one my uncle gave me with a 200,000 miles on it but when it blew the head gasket I donated it to Salvation Army. Not sure why everything you work on is so damned ragged out, it must be the rust belt. I love your channel, it renews my faith in Gen Xers. 😄
2:28 you should check what type lambda is and how condition. sometimes it can be backward type. of course oil dust in exhaust is like rich low oxy reading by ECU and ECU begin to lean. hondas engine like oil
I laughed at the lanyard on the ODBII connector. I've left a couple in random cars and completely forgotten about them until later. That's a great idea.
I had a 1987 Plymouth Voyager (3.0L) and while it was a sweet panty melter, it leaked so much oil and horrible pressure I switched to 20W50 weight for the remainder of its life. It died on I-494 in Minneapolis. Fun fact you could move the distributor about 10 degrees left or right. Why you could move it so much and nothing happens to the engine was a mechanic stumper.
WOw.. So my 2002 Acura MDX with 3.5L Vtec was the perfect find.. because the very next year is when they first released the VCM crap. So I dodged a bullet on that one. It's fully decked out; 3 rows of Leather seats, moon roof, heated mirrors/ seats. new tires all around. Only 155k miles and I got it for $1700. lol... Not a single dent, zero rust, not a single drop of oil.. It's incredible. What a steal, I can't get over it.... I still wonder if it has had a timing belt change or not though
We own an 04' Accord with that same motor. Less than 100k miles on it though. We still take it to the dealership for service. They know more about it than you do I'm sure. It's expensive though when they do anything to it.
@T.J. Kong I remember it being on a plow truck (although it might’ve happened on a tractor too and I just don’t remember it), lemme see if I can find a link.
GREAT job, I called it on this one my first guess was bottom end bearings, someone will probably put snake oil in it and clean it up real nice and try to pass it off to another and so on. Buyers beware. Cheers from Jacksonville Florida 🌞
Bad rings/valves is not going to cause low oil pressure so a leakdown test would prove nothing. Low oil pressure is typically caused by worn bearings not holding the oil in. More than likely the crank.
Probably had a sudden oil consumption increase and it was ran low on oil. Someone refilled it, but didn't tell them, or, you're not getting the full truth.
Wes , it appears that this one is doomed. You do a great job of explaining what your doing . It's good to have someone just tells like it is and puts in easy explanation for everyone that watches. Thanks again and have a great weekend and 🖐👍
Drain the oil from the engine, if there is not a lot of metal in it, the oil is probably leaking somewhere in the engine and cannot build the pressure, or the oil pump is very bad, if botom end is worn out for that low oil presure it will probably lock up alredy, or put in bearings for botom end if they are worn out
Owners probably are already into four digits with the previous shop firing the Part Cannon; so, they may not have enough ready cash to pay for a prophylactic oil change.
Very impressed with the number of comment responses you make. Biggest change I have seen to some channels as they get more popular is the lack of response to comments. Send the engine to “ I DO CARS” for one of his tear down videos. HA
I listened for it twice, but I did not hear why a replacement oil pump is not recommended. They are like $200 and not crazy hard to change. What did I miss?
Yea i wonder that too. The limp mode is complicating the diagnosis but as a last resort before trashing it id change pump, and drop the pan and check the pickup screen. Maybe the oil got sludged or someone put wrong grade in it.
Bottom end is already dead, would need new bearings at a minimum and maybe a crank grind if that's been damaged. My guess is the customer ran it low on oil and wiped out the bearings starting this whole chain of events.
@@WatchWesWork True. I am just a sucker to keep the junk on the road. I have valves tapping in one vehicle and a bearing whining in another, but until the rust wins and they turn to dust, they are cheaper than new ones. I like the Hondas, and hate to see them go to that great crusher in the sky. I spent Wednesday night under my 2006 GMC replacing the transmission shift position switch. The switch was still working fine, but the bracket had rusted completely away. She is more than just a bit ruff, but she doesn’t owe me anything.
I used a federal mogul leakage tank to check for oil loss (leakage) internally and you could see where the majority of the oil was going, access to the oil pan made my age group a bit more capable before CAD programs used up every square inch. I also used that Federal Mogul tank to pre-lube fresh engines rather than rely on assembly grease on start up.
Ive had a couple oddysey and pilots where i had issues wjere the vcm set similar codes. Changed oil and it resolved it for a little while. Sometimes a chunk of garbage gets stuck in the port or the vcm spool valve. Otherwise put some thicker oil in it and send it lol
you cant win them all, you did the best you could, wish you were near me in UK so you could look after my cars. I can see why other shops send you the problem vehicles, because you diagnose it where they couldn't. Thanks for video, looking forward to next one.
my old Chevy had 5lbs of pressure but it sounded like a box of ball bearings had been dumped in her then silence and an extra vent hole where a piston tried to escape lol
No, an oil pump is not going to fix this engine...
What about more dielectric grease? Would that help?
@@flightforensics4523 That's not going to fix the rod bearings...
“I just need an oil change and a tune up” ~ Customer, who states such
@@WatchWesWork I don't recall you saying the rod bearings were bad. Do you know they are bad?
@@anderleof The engine has lived a good long life and has lots of miles on it. Everything wears down after time no matter how good you take care of it. "Customer states they changed the oil regularly" is a lie you hear a lot of in the industry as well. Or as Wess stated, it leaks oil from just about everywhere. The customer most likely let it run low on oil, because of all the leaks, and the poor engine died because of oil starvation. Most of the time you will never get an honest answer from someone because they don't want to admit that they were the root of the problem and most technicians don't want to waste their time tearing into a known bad engine.
I Stopped wrenching a very long time ago. But, I sure like the way you walk us through the diagnostics on each trouble. You're one of the best mechanics I have watched. Thank you, for sharing your thoughts, and methods of diagnostics. Greatly appreciate you work.
You should look up Ivan at "pine hollow auto diagnostics" ---- another good one is "south main auto"... These guys are both good and I think they are all buddies too.
also the side comments are fantastic to hear.. keeps me smiling..
Wes is great.
Who else hits the thumbs up icon before Wes has even started talking ?....
Thanks for reminding me!
Michael Watts Every time it’s a Wes video!
I wait for the first obscure tool use
tom beauchamp 😂👍🔧
always
Not every job has a happy ending. Your disappointment at the outcome speaks volumes. Wes, You Sir, Are Good People 🙂
my friend's 2006 odyssey had the same code, and it turned out to be a tired oil pump too. it was close to 300,000 hard miles (with a lot of towing of trailers along the way). the guy who bought it off of him swapped the engine with a lower mileage one and is still driving it three years later.
300,000 miles AND towing trailers, it had to have gone through a few transmissions right?
Great point!
As a shade tree mechanic, I love the way you walk us through the diagnostic process. I'm not very good with electrical, which is why I love your channel. I'm always trying to learn .Thank you .
Not the ending I was expecting, I was expecting Wes to come walking around from the back of the barn carrying a shotgun...
Comment of the year!!! 🤣🤣🤣
It would have been the decent thing to do :(
🤣🤣🤣
lol
This was like the Bambi of Watch Wes Work videos! Not the outcome I am sure anyone wanted, that is some detroit 2 stroke oil pressure right there. I know why you cannot get to the oil pressure port, because the Japanese do not plan for anything to be broken, I worked with Mitsubishi engineers and it was clear that they did not want to ever make a mistake or a bad decision, they would take weeks or months sometimes to come back with an answer to solve a problem.
do American's plan for anything to break? I had an s10 that made 5psi of oil pressure at idle when warm, the pump was good, but the cam bearings were likely shot. I've had 2 different GM 3.8's that blew head gaskets at 100k miles. My dad had a dodge ram with the v10 that welded to of its spark plugs into the head. The only vehicles I've had that outran my Japanese made ones were volvo 740's. The old redblocks didn't make a lot of power, they were not light nor were they easy on gas...but they never stopped running. I had one that the oil change was so long over due, that the oil would freeze in the oil pan...every startup that winter for a good couple of months was basically with very little oil. It didn't hurt it one bit.
@@999benhonda I always driven Chevrolet I have had nothing but good luck see alot Honda and Toyotas on the side of the road
@@darylball4717 Same here nothing but GM in my stable, (02 and 04 Silverado2500HD's, 04 Cadillac Deville, and 03 Oldsmobile Aurora) always see TONS of Toyotas and Hondas broke down along I-70 here in SWPA! I have towed more foreign makes than American!
My new favourite channel after binge watching all videos
Glad you enjoy Wes’s videos!
VCM J series engines of this vintage can develop problems with excess oil consumption due to the piston rings fowling on the deactivated cylinders. That would increase the risk it was run low on oil at some point, or even regularly. May have contributed. There was a warranty extension to replace the piston rings, but not all engines developed the problem. Who knows.
09 accord with oil consumption here.
I thought that was just on the J37s
@@edwardmyers1746 There was definitely a problem with 35's. Maybe 37's too. There's a TSB about it. People sell vcm "muzzle" disablers gadgets to try to avoid it. Lots of talk about them in the message boards. I have a 2010 Odyssey ex-l that has vcm. No issues, but the tsb and warranty extension applies (now expired). I'm not interested in the muzzlers. If it's ever a problem I'll just do the piston rings per the tsb.
@@jptrainor actually I think it might be something different I'm thinking of, pretty sure my J37 has no deactivating cylinders but it still consumes oil, I think the recall on that replaces pistons and rings
@@edwardmyers1746
I think it had to do with piston design those years.
Weep holes on oil return rings get plugged. I blame it all on the outrageously long oil change intervals
some straight 50W oil is all you need! A friend had an F150 3V that started ticking bad from the cam phasers, hated the truck and wanted a dodge hemi. So he changed the oil out for straight 50W oil. Man that sucker was quiet and smooth. Drove it to dealer and traded it in on a used dodge. Dealer called him a few days later saying the 3V blew up on a test drive...
Eric O's classic intro:
"This one came from another shop."
Nice job diagnosing the issue. Honda engines of this vintage had known issues with VCM causing rings to stick and resulting increased oil consumption causing low oil pressure leading to other internal engine issues. If memory serves me correctly there was a class action lawsuit that resulted in Honda issuing an extended warranty on these engines. Not sure I buy the owner's comment that oil changed regularly (whatever that means) given the overall condition of the vehicle. Bottom line - shame to see what is otherwise a reliable vehicle going to the born yard so soon.
Only thing missing in your assessment is to have Max take a look at the vehicle and give his opinion. The look on his face in response to your questions is priceless.
Regularly can mean once every 6 months or year to most people who don't drive many miles. Doesn't matter if it hasn't driven 5,000-7,500 miles for the oil change interval for that particular year model. Still doesn't take into account the idle hours most minivans accumulate with waiting to pick up kids, or shuttling cargo/loading/unloading that they see. I agree, "regularly" is extremely vague and doesn't tell you squat about the condition of the engine.
Oil changed every 50,000 miles like clockwork, never skipped an oil change 😆
15 years and 254,000 miles is a pretty good lifespan in our climate.
@@ferrumignis Whether it needed it or not! 🙄
@@WatchWesWork Body rust looked pretty good for IL. I live about three hours South and rust is pretty bad on fairly new vehicles.
Pretty impressive how close the mechanical pressure gauge and the electronic readout matched. Obviously this isn't a mere bad oil pump. Sounds like every bearing in the engine has seen their better days... Thumbs Up on your video and troubleshooting techniques.
From my experience, a bad oil pump will have low pressure all the time, whereas worn bearings will show change in oil pressure as the engine changes temperature (thermal expansion). Another great video Wes, Thanks.
I drove a lot of junk when I was younger and had some good luck dropping oil pans in-car and rolling new bearings into some pretty tired engines. Not sure if that would be an option here, but it was always good for a significant improvement in oil pressure as long as the engine wasn't already far enough gone to have spun a rod bearing.
The way the oilpressure acts looks to me like a open stuck pressurevalve….
When the oil heats a little pressure drops
Love the videos you make…..
The oil pressure switch on Honda is set to something really low like 3 PSI. Also, the Single overhead J series V6 engines use a VCM version of VTEC which basically allows the rockers to free ride as they are no longer connected. The VCM ruins the back three cylinders because you pull oil into three cylinders with a higher than normal vacuum.
Don't feel bad Wes, that owner got his money's worth from that van. He obviously saved money by not keeping up with the other problems like the wheel bearings. Passenger vehicles weren't designed to last like commercial trucks with expected service of over a million miles.
You'll have to show me a commercial vehicle that has lasted over a million miles... because I've never seen one.
@@calholli like big rigs. You have to understand the dynamics of stop and go city driving vs all highway consistent speed driving. A million big rig miles is equal to 100k pass car miles.
There are exceptions. There are two million miles tundras but they are exceptions because they are not on their original transmissions, do exclusively highway miles. Believe he was a Texas oilman who drive from site to site in the region. And of course the reliability of Toyota plus the robustness of it's truck engines.
@@LAactor I've seen 7.3L Ford Diesels that have passed a million.. but it's not common. I have a 2002 F350 7.3L Diesel with 6spd Manual, 4x4 w/ manual transfer case/ manual locking hubs.. and I've passed 330k miles now. It's more of a tractor than a truck. It doesn't even have tilt or cruse control. lol.. Very basic. But it's an excellent rig, that will still tow an overloaded gooseneck trailer up the side of a mountain without trying hard, even with the high miles... but my truck is an exception
Oh believe me, even heavy service engines expected to get a million miles do NOT do that without service. You're not thinking. While a big Cummins KT400 can easily go a million miles, it can only go 25,000 miles per oil change and that's still a lot. It holds over 50 quarts of oil. You should see how HUGE the oil filter is inside a Lubra-finer. I would hope so. But at 25k, it definitely has to have an oil change; all 52 quarts. Believe me. Even their liquid wheel bearings don't last forever, and part of your daily inspection is checking them for leaks. Luckily they show up easily. You must be confused about something. You just don't get a million miles out of a heavy truck. Hardly. You need a 10 ton press just to align the thing, and you have to do that at least every 6 months. And that's just fleet maintenance. I had a big Peterbilt with a half a million on the clock and believe me, it wasn't cheap getting it there. It was 10,000 dollars just for a set of tires on my rig. And that was back in 1982!
One of the most enjoyable parts of your videos is your diagnosis step by step of finding the problem. You are a extremely intelligent person Wes.
Nah. I just know junk!
It’s part of the “marketing mode.” I’m sure any regular viewer knows exactly what I mean. You’re a genius kid. What ever you do, don’t stop this. You’re helping thousands.
Tired oil pumps and valve lash on these Hondas can cause a garden variety of strange issues. Couple that with ring issues on some of these era engines, and it’s a rats nest to unwind. You’re the best Wes. Thanks for the journey.
You can't save them all Wes. Love your videos. Thanks so much
15 year Honda tech, I’ve seen 2 things cause this problem. Aftermarket oil filters are notorious for cause this problem when warmed up, although it’s normally the 4 cylinders, but it’s cheap enough to try. I’ve also seen one time the screws that hold the oil pump cover plate on back out and cause it to leak. They don’t fall all the way out since they run into the main caps.
Time to take it out to the barn and give it both barrels...
I think I look forward to the next Wes video more than any other channel.
Nah.... send it to Neutral Drop... hey stuntman!!! 😂
I succeeded last weekend on this repair P2647 and it ended well for me on a 2007 Honda Odyssey. Great explanation Wes, but you should not have given up...especially after such a long video explaining the problem well. Like you said, this Odyssey is in limp mode because the VTEC oil spool valve solenoid is seized. With high mileage and infrequent oil changes on a van like this, it is likely the screen in the spool valve is dirty and oil deposits are passing through, interfering with the solenoid and oil pressure to engage and disengage VTEC. The solenoid should be replaced. The gasket is probably bad too which might make a mess with leaky oil. P2647 means misfire essentially, you're not running on all cylinders but luckily you can order a new spool oil valve with solenoid, fresh gasket and oil sensor all together for around $50 on online retailers. To replace that, locate on the right back of the engine block the solenoid facing up. Unplug 3 switches and 3 bolts (bring a friend to shine the light and maybe a breaker bar), oil the gasket, and reassemble. I would be shocked if this wasn't the surefire solution, assuming you have clean and proper oil. Get some belt spray on that thang once you're done because that squeak is horrendous and let the Odyssey continue for many more miles!!!
Were you also getting a misfire on any of your cylinders?
Whats the part number to the spool? Or link to where u got it for 50$ ???
@@soilBGuRu420buy oem when it comes to that part
I just subscribed, you are really the man for difficult to repair vehicles in your area and beyond.
I've been watching many of your adventures this week and it's amazing that your figure out so many complex problems. Big thumbs up from this guy.
👍
Thanks for the new episode. I’d rather just thank you for pushing another one out rather than blow gas. Please know that we enjoy your work and learn a great deal while watching the best show on YT.
With all these diagnosis videos gonna call you the professor awesome job as always Wes 😎👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Hey Wes, just recently subscribed to your channel and it's awesome. You're an awesome dude that does honest work. Just wanted to say I appreciate that there's still some good guys out there.
You know your a good TH-camr when your views are higher than your subscribers. Keep up the great work Wes!
I remember Eric the Car Guy had a whole series on a Fixer upper Odyssey. VCM problem as well. His workaround was to rebuild the problem bank and mod it to make it full time.
He ended up having to replace taht engine.
Ended up doing valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube seals on one of these in a 07 accord last week popular engine in lots of Hondas these are good engines these 3.0ls @Watch Wes Work
I thoroughly enjoy your videos. You explain in detail without talking down to us non-mechanics. We just hit 88888 miles on our 2005 Honda Odyssey. As you can tell we don't drive it much. Purchased 10/13/2004 and our first brake replacement was on November 14, 2021. I would recommend an Odyssey to anyone out there as it is very reliable and if this 2007 is any indication we have over 100,000+ left on her.
You probably have your entire life left with that van.
We all get shaved by Occam's razor once in a while, even Wes, who is a logical thinker and relentless pursuer of cause.
You can’t Save them all Wes. Appreciate you having us along. I’ll most definitely catch you on the next one. Keep It Safe Out There Sir
Absolutely 👍 💯
what a roller coaster
the middle was a little bit boring
and such a twist at the end !!!
thanks for another great video !!!
I wish you could have tried some of those additives on that vehicle. Would have been hysterical to see if anything brings that thing back to life or at least more than 8 lb of oil pressure
The thicker oil to build up engine pressure in order to buy time to figure out his next move is a good suggestion. This car market is really tough for anyone on a budget right now. Finding any vehicle at a decent price depends pretty much on lucky timing. By the same token, Car Wizard up in Kansas has been seeing people spend thousands on old cars because the market for replacement is either sky high or non-existent.
I'd suggest taking a quart of oil out (if it isn't a quart low already) and adding a quart of 90 wt.
Eric the car guy used some no name additive and it loosened everything up so well it started clogging the fine mesh screens to everything. Had to give her a whole new car. Maybe a better brand of flush would have been more prudent. Like Liquid Moly or just do a high detergent synthetic engine oil and hope that flushes it. Maybe some Ristlone. Some say use 20% ATF and the rest cheap oil and flush. No high revs. Some say 100 miles. Tough to say what's right. But it all seems a dangerous proposition to me. Especially in a very sludged up engine at these high miles.
@@seanwieland9763 how do we know it's not the oil pump?
@@tarstarkusz would that trip a trouble code via the ECM?
I like the way you explain your thought process. You and eric o are excellant teachers. Thank god for guys like you.
Yes these cars now a day’s run very thin oil. And yes all those miles tired and worn out. Great video Wes 👍
You know you are pretty good at what you do when another shop sends you what it can't fix and you fix it. (well in this case you didn't fix it but you figured out what went wrong) Thanks for letting us tag along.
Since this was a "sudden" failure, I'd definitely check that solenoid operated valve outside of the system. If it's regulating the pressure, it might not be fully closing when it thinks it's closed, and the oil pump has no resistance to push against develop pressure.
End of the line. I'm glad that you featured one of these and I appreciated how you explained the reasoning.
Heavier weight oil story from years ago. Minneapolis, a taxi cab owner would call into the overnight radio show. Like all cab companies, they bought old squad cars. The one car he had, they put gear oil in it for better oil pressure and it worked well for a long time until a uninformed mechanic put in regular weight oil and the engine blew.
Excellent troubleshooting as usual Wes! The engine said enough is enough...sure can't complain about getting one's money worth though as evidenced by the milage.
Love starting my weekend with a Watch Wes Work video. Can't get any better
There are 3 common causes for VTEC codes on Hondas:
1) Low oil level causing low oil pressure (the most common cause, especially on the VCM engines since they burn a lot of oil)
2) Oil pressure switch failure on the VTEC solenoids
3) Sludge plugging the filters on the solenoids or sticking the solenoids themselves.
I’m fairly certain on the VCM engines that when it sets a VTEC stuck on code, it assumes that the 3 VCM cylinders are disabled and turns off injectors on those cylinders, so it runs on 3 cylinders. That’s why it had low power in limp mode.
The oil pressure light would probably come on if you put it in gear at low idle. The oil pressure light is pretty much useless and only comes on once it gets down to 1-2 psi. I’ve seen so many of these cars roll in 0.5qts of oil in the engine and the only indication of a problem is the check engine light and VTEC codes.
Those engines with the VCM are infamously bad when it comes to oil related issues. Honda 6s with VTEC will happily run for over half a million miles so long as you keep up with oil changes and keep feeding them transmissions to beat to a pulp.
Take her out back and put her out of her misery. By the looks of her she’s led a rough life so it’s time. She had a good run but now her time has come. Good video Wes, your diagnostics and explanations are top notch.
That’s weird. It had over 50 psi when you first started it at idle so I figured the oil pressure was fine. Seeing it drop to 5 psi is mind blowing to me.
My 83 mustang would start out about 40. With a tired motor be at 0 hot idle.
i love all the electrical stuff you do. Not many channels focus on that.
thanks.....
“You mash the gas”…you sounded southern when you said that 😁 proud of you!!!
You prefer “gun it” or “I’m gunna gun it”
Wow DOA. Not what I expected but it is realistic, somethings just wear out. 250K miles! I thought I had put a lot on my old Ford Fiesta at 180K before it finally sighed and died. Great video Wes thumbs up.
When it comes to investing, nothing pays off more than educating yourself with the right information from the right source. That's how you get rich.
You're right, that's why I invested into assets like cryptocurrency and some stocks
Stocks are good to invest on, but crypto is more profitable
I wanted to trade crypto but got discouraged by the fluctuations in price
@@Johnclayton28 You have to get more experience first, work with a professional like Mr Dave Jevans on crypto to guide you step-by-step.
I heard that his strategies are really good
Hi Wes, you got it backwards with that screen, the thinner the oil, the more goes through a clogged screen, so it should get better, not worse with getting hot. Dont know about Honda but with VW the dash light comes on under 1600rpm at 0,25bar and above 1600rpm at 0,8 bar. Mercedes, hot idle pressure of 0,1 bar/1,5 psi indicated on the dash is still acceptable with the older engines. I would pull those two connectors, camshaft valve and pressure, put in thick oil, and send him off, customer can ride it down until the engine sizes or that wheel bearing locks up or falls apart. Some more free mileage... Cheers. edit: i would add an hour of labour and take that oil pump out, maybe its just worn out and the root to that issue, maybe the pressure limiting valve is stuck on it. and again, thanks for the content. We still have that 88 LTC that needs your attention, but we haven't been back jet.
Sounds like a dead cylinder? iVtec? Sounds like my brother's Accord that the little spring that returns the intake valve de-actuator broke. That thing ran terrible and smelled terrible. Take intake manifold off and see that the affect cylinder's intake port was full of gasoline. I'm no Honda expert but I did find that fairly quickly. That was a pretty quick fix...new springs. Honda dealer: New engine. New springs were quite a bit cheaper and worked well.
STP or 90 weight send it out the door good luck and a good job Dr. Wes you did it all but check the prostrate valve. thank you, ALL stay safe
That's a bummer...I think SMA had something like that..anyway you went the road,👍
I really appreciate your troubleshooting explanations and how you break circuits down to bite sized pieces. Thanks for sharing your time and videos.
I'm not sure I understood correctly when you said $3500 to install a used engine. At today's car prices, I would go for the engine replacement and some wheel bearings and still be cheaper than replacing the vehicle.
@@dancarney106 Hold on to your wallets, boys. Used car dealer in the vicinity! ;-)
Book value is around $3000.
Depends on what the underside of it looks like. If its clean of rust, a used engine might be an option. If its a crusty Northern 15 year old vehicle, junk it and move on with life.
Pity that watching Wes work wonders didn't work out this time but we all get the the end of the road eventually. As my old boss used to say, 'they were all somebody's pride and joy sometime", but that didn't stop him dismantling them.
All J-series V6 engines feature traditional VTEC for added power. The modern versions also have VCM (Variable-Cylinder-Management) to change between 3, 4, & 6 cylinder modes to sip fuel.
The VCM versions are extremely sensitive to oil change intervals, & make sure to change that PCV valve. I recommend owners to change their oil between 3-5k miles.
DO NOT change the oil when the vehicle tells you to. It will normally wait close to 7-8k miles to tell you to perform the maintenance. Plus, a non functioning PCV valve will cause all kinds of issues too (oil burning).
Could be the Electric Pressure Switch module Pulling in the Spool Valve ... went for Belt and Braces by Changing the Filter Screen , which had been blocked and also the Pressure Switch on top of same... mine did that Limp home story and hard shifting on my 06 Honda CRV MK2... K 20 Series Engine different same Story, that fix sorted mine... Great Upload...
Great job wes they can't last forever eh think they've had there money's worth from it time for it to retire I think great video mate take care man 🔧🔧🔧👍👌
I had the same problem and it was the lower part of the VTEC solenoid…I changed and it worked perfectly
Do you like that M12 right angle impact? I have 2-4 amp and 2-6 amp batteries already. I have been debating on buying one; I trust your opinion. You’ll be at 200k subscribers soon, you deserve 2 million.
I just got it. Haven't really used it much, but it seems handy for certain things.
Since Wes hasn't used it that much, the Torque Test Channel did a video comparing these right angle impact drivers: Makita LXT, Milwaukee M12, M18, and Skil PWRCORE 12. (March 4, 2022)
Edit: they also have a video on the M12 Fuel impact wrench from Aug 13, 2021
(Not affiliated with them in any way, just like what they do and how they just give you the facts)
@@InsanePacoTaco I watch all of TTC’s videos, they are fantastic, the best tool videos on TH-cam in my opinion. I was mostly curious about the usability, I’m not doubting the power.
Warren over at Western Truck and Tractor Repair uses Milwaukee impacts, including the right angle. Those things are used everyday, all day, in some nasty conditions (almost desert like to snow), on JD, Cat, Peterbilts, Freightliners, all the heavy stuff. If I wasn’t invested already, I’d go Milwaukee.
Thanks for all the checking of sensors etc. But you can't fix them all at a reasonable rate. Thanks for the video.
I have an 07 odyssey and when the oil pressure reaches I would say around 60PSI it activates the pin on the rookery arm to the other cam follower giving the cam longer duration. Yes they did have a recall on the cylinders shutting down causing the rings to foul up. And cause more problems. My daughter just drove up from Virginia in a 2010 pilot an when she got to my house in NY the lights came on and she was 31/2 qts low. Yes you have to use the right viscosity oil or it will fail. Mine and hers use 5W-20. Critical !
I have the i-vtec version of this engine in an accord. They changed the suggested viscosity from 5w20 to 0w20. Also, you can disable the vcm by getting the vcm tuner add on plug for the coolant temperature sensor.
@@rafmatt1607 Now its 0w16.
I have noticed the more expensive a used engine is seems to be inversely proportonal to the quality of an engine. If an engine is really a great engine then there will be a bunch of them in salvage yards and no one needing one. If a used engine is really expensive, unless it is a high performance engine people will put in for the performance it usually means the engines are breaking more often than cars being wrecked to provide them.
Typical supply/demand...
You are right about it being an availability thing, but it's not based on the quality. These engines are swapped into other things a lot.
I dunno. LS engines are super cheap and everyone swaps those.
You heard it here folks, Wes is going to LS swap this honda
@@WatchWesWork There's an idea; LS swap this pig!🤣🤣🤣
on mine it was the Engine Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoid, it caused the rocker arm issue, a year ago.
However, I recently replaced my engine. Paid 1800 labor & parts. Mechanic also replaced both cv axles I bought that were in the trunk.. for free.
van has 300k miles. yeah.
I love my ody, so 1800, im happy with it. Its running great again.
worn engine, a higher viscosity oil might get them get a few more miles, I'm surprised that there isn't an easy way to check engine oil pressure, especially when it's critical to proper valve control. Honda surprised me on that one.
Bean counter engineering solution. Why use 2 oil pressure sensors, when you can use a switch for the low oil light, that doesn't come on unless the pressure is 0 PSI. Then get your oil pressure reading from your Variable intake/camshaft solution. Have to save those .50 cents per sensor on cost when you're making millions of minivans with the same engine for a 5-8 year period.
Maybe they expect you to rely on data from the _oil pressure sensor?_
Everyone does it now. Even Ford has a fake pressure gauge.
@@WatchWesWork they have a gauge but it’s only relays on that switch. Pressure never moves, always the same. It’s just on. I kinda wish it could be converted to a real gauge.
Thick oil might be a bandaid, but that engine is just worn out. Even if you attempted the bandaid, you might have to find a way to disable the cylinder deactivation to prevent it from cutting fuel from the rear bank. Waste of time messing with that engine in my opinion.
Thanks for your detailed videos. Your square Chevy is exactly like the one my uncle gave me with a 200,000 miles on it but when it blew the head gasket I donated it to Salvation Army. Not sure why everything you work on is so damned ragged out, it must be the rust belt. I love your channel, it renews my faith in Gen Xers. 😄
2:28 you should check what type lambda is and how condition. sometimes it can be backward type. of course oil dust in exhaust is like rich low oxy reading by ECU and ECU begin to lean. hondas engine like oil
I laughed at the lanyard on the ODBII connector. I've left a couple in random cars and completely forgotten about them until later. That's a great idea.
I had a 1987 Plymouth Voyager (3.0L) and while it was a sweet panty melter, it leaked so much oil and horrible pressure I switched to 20W50 weight for the remainder of its life. It died on I-494 in Minneapolis. Fun fact you could move the distributor about 10 degrees left or right. Why you could move it so much and nothing happens to the engine was a mechanic stumper.
First video of yours I've gone through the comments. Learned a lot
Yay......The Code Whisperer 👏👏👏👏👏👍🇨🇦
WOw.. So my 2002 Acura MDX with 3.5L Vtec was the perfect find.. because the very next year is when they first released the VCM crap. So I dodged a bullet on that one. It's fully decked out; 3 rows of Leather seats, moon roof, heated mirrors/ seats. new tires all around. Only 155k miles and I got it for $1700. lol... Not a single dent, zero rust, not a single drop of oil.. It's incredible. What a steal, I can't get over it.... I still wonder if it has had a timing belt change or not though
Would be interesting to see if heavier oil and/or some snake oil additives would make enough of a difference to keep it going a little longer.
It probably would've brought the oil pressure up but newer engines rely on that thin oil to make those Vtec and cylinder deactivation systems work.
I have them the option. They pulled the plug.
I'm always inspired by your vids to tear into stuff I know absolutely nothing about... love it
We own an 04' Accord with that same motor. Less than 100k miles on it though. We still take it to the dealership for service. They know more about it than you do I'm sure. It's expensive though when they do anything to it.
yea and those dont have the stupid cyl shut off crap. I got an 04 oydssey 3.5 with 216k miles. its got issues but it keeps truckin
Your brain has an entirely unique ECM, bro. I'm not blowing smoke up your tailpipe either. Nicely done brother.
Is the pickup screen blocked inside the oil pan?
Don't think so.
@T.J. Kong Possible, most are secured to the block with a single bolt and a rubber o-ring acting as a gasket.
@T.J. Kong I remember it being on a plow truck (although it might’ve happened on a tractor too and I just don’t remember it), lemme see if I can find a link.
GREAT job, I called it on this one my first guess was bottom end bearings, someone will probably put snake oil in it and clean it up real nice and try to pass it off to another and so on. Buyers beware. Cheers from Jacksonville Florida 🌞
I'd be curious what oil analysis finds in the oil. Any efficacy to a leakdown test at this point?
Bad rings/valves is not going to cause low oil pressure so a leakdown test would prove nothing. Low oil pressure is typically caused by worn bearings not holding the oil in. More than likely the crank.
@@BifsieOfficial Right but that would tell you rolling in new crank bearings might be a worthwhile hail Mary save.
I think all we can do is bring in the casket...
It has low oil pressure, leaks everywhere and has a light knock. Its done, DUNE, done🤕
@@WatchWesWork here in Oregon they converted a VW bus to a depository for remains. I hate to think of what the future holds for our generation.
you missed out on setting the oil pressure high with shop air psi and seeing if it would be totally fine. but diag was spot on. Great video thanks
Probably had a sudden oil consumption increase and it was ran low on oil. Someone refilled it, but didn't tell them, or, you're not getting the full truth.
Wes , it appears that this one is doomed. You do a great job of explaining what your doing . It's good to have someone just tells like it is and puts in easy explanation for everyone that watches. Thanks again and have a great weekend and 🖐👍
Drain the oil from the engine, if there is not a lot of metal in it, the oil is probably leaking somewhere in the engine and cannot build the pressure, or the oil pump is very bad, if botom end is worn out for that low oil presure it will probably lock up alredy, or put in bearings for botom end if they are worn out
Owners probably are already into four digits with the previous shop firing the Part Cannon; so, they may not have enough ready cash to pay for a prophylactic oil change.
They are sending it to minivan heaven. He said the cats are shot and the CEL has been on for years.
Very impressed with the number of comment responses you make.
Biggest change I have seen to some channels as they get more popular is the lack of response to comments.
Send the engine to “ I DO CARS” for one of his tear down videos. HA
I try. It’s tough. I get 2000ish comments a week.
I listened for it twice, but I did not hear why a replacement oil pump is not recommended. They are like $200 and not crazy hard to change. What did I miss?
Yea i wonder that too. The limp mode is complicating the diagnosis but as a last resort before trashing it id change pump, and drop the pan and check the pickup screen. Maybe the oil got sludged or someone put wrong grade in it.
An oil pump isn't going to fix the rod bearings.
Bottom end is already dead, would need new bearings at a minimum and maybe a crank grind if that's been damaged. My guess is the customer ran it low on oil and wiped out the bearings starting this whole chain of events.
@@WatchWesWork True. I am just a sucker to keep the junk on the road. I have valves tapping in one vehicle and a bearing whining in another, but until the rust wins and they turn to dust, they are cheaper than new ones. I like the Hondas, and hate to see them go to that great crusher in the sky.
I spent Wednesday night under my 2006 GMC replacing the transmission shift position switch. The switch was still working fine, but the bracket had rusted completely away. She is more than just a bit ruff, but she doesn’t owe me anything.
I used a federal mogul leakage tank to check for oil loss (leakage) internally and you could see where the majority of the oil was going, access to the oil pan made my age group a bit more capable before CAD programs used up every square inch. I also used that Federal Mogul tank to pre-lube fresh engines rather than rely on assembly grease on start up.
Time for the straight motor honey 🤣👌
Jay the Florida pool pump motor bearing repair guy When Service Calls Longwood approved ! that was good info 👨🔧 Wes
Customer says it suddenly happened. Did you verify the oil filter wasn’t collapsed preventing oil supply to pump. Something cheap to look at
I suspect the customer would also say those wheel bearings were fine last week...
It has a bypass valve like all oil filters. More than 10 psi restriction and it just goes around the filter.
Straight pipes and a sport tune! Got love a drag racing Momma Bear.
Ive had a couple oddysey and pilots where i had issues wjere the vcm set similar codes. Changed oil and it resolved it for a little while. Sometimes a chunk of garbage gets stuck in the port or the vcm spool valve. Otherwise put some thicker oil in it and send it lol
you cant win them all, you did the best you could, wish you were near me in UK so you could look after my cars. I can see why other shops send you the problem vehicles, because you diagnose it where they couldn't. Thanks for video, looking forward to next one.
my old Chevy had 5lbs of pressure but it sounded like a box of ball bearings had been dumped in her then silence and an extra vent hole where a piston tried to escape lol
Thanks for the journey Wes, it was entertaining even thou it EOL. Looking forward to seeing how you came out with the “Articfact”.