Thank you for your efforts with this experiment. I am using your videos for guidance in refinishing chrome drumset hardware. Shadow Chrome and 2K Clear appear to be the winners here. Cheers..
Dude that 2k stuff makes a huge difference. I just used vht nightshade for my tail lights on my s10 xtreme turned out good with whatever clear coat i used but totally getting that 2k stuff. That black chrome totally gonna try my door handles and the chrome trim on the grill. Great vids bro
Update 7/10/23: Even with 2k clear this will chip away over time. My front badge has chipped a bit and one of my rear badges as well. I also believe they have faded a little (hard to tell). Overall I would say don’t use this product.
In pro paint shops plastic parts are always scuffed thoroughly with 3M 7447 Scotch Brite red pads, that's approx 400 grit, cleaned then adhesion promoter, then color coat, I like to dust the part with a guide coat to ensure thorough scuffing, good content
You don't know what you are talking about. You have no Clue of how Painting of New Bare Plastic Bumpers are done. First of all only an Idiot would use a Red Scuff Pad, you should only use a Gray Scuff Pad. Then you clean the Bare Plastic bumper with a Special Plastic cleaner, you wipe on and wipe off, you don't clean it with Adhesion Promoter. After cleaning you Spray 1 or 2 light coats of the Adhesion Promoter, then you MUST spray 1 or 2 light coats of a correct colored Sealer, and only then its ready for the Base Coat and Clearcoat. Every step of yours is totally wrong.
Yes, the adhesive promoter in my opinion is not good. The 2 K Clear is awesome stuff. I did my Mirrors and used the 2 K clear. Wow strong stuff. I scuffed up my side mirrors then painted with a light grey Primer (3 coats) the wet sanded with 600 grit. Then I used Red Obsession GM Paint (5 light coats) let dry then used the 2 K Clear. They look awesome. I wanted that Championship Edition Look and omg it looks just like it. Super smooth finish. Your primer color really does make a difference on the finally finish! That’s why I used the light Grey Primer. Gave me that perfect look I was looking for. The 2 K clear really gave it that clean look and protection. Will see how it holds up. I used The 2 K clear on my front grill and badges. Love the stuff. I spray all my badges laying down but i use double sided tape on a small little box to left the badges off the ground so when spraying it covers all the edges evenly. That works so much better. Great video once again. Thank you.
Great vid. I want to experiment with A. Light sanding adhesion promoter B. Layering adhesion promoter> 2kclear> shadowchrome> 2kclear for max adhesion/reflection/minimize orange peel
im unsealing my headlights and painting the reflector with something like this. the shadow chrome is something I can get easily enough and the 2k clear seems like a good combo to go with it. the goal is to get a blacked out look while not sacrificing a ton of reflectivity, for legal reasons.
Thank you alot for this video! I was looking to change the Chrome on my 2016 Honda Civic and wanted to do something different to the chrome parts than just black. Black chrome I think will be a nice looking alternative But I do worry about chipping on the front end across the grille. I think I may try it.
My wife gouged her PVD black chrome wheels. Can i sand the gouges out prime, paint them black then use these products to try to imitate the factory finish?
I don’t think it will imitate it. This will have that slight hue to it and I think it will be obvious. I think you’re better off using some model enamel, black or dark gray that’s been diluted.
Attempted to use shadow chrome on the stock chrome interior trim on my ‘21 718, blotched easily and I wasn’t ready to sand and make it permanent so I aborted. I’m sure a light wet sanding would solve that problem? Have you any experience on shadow chroming chrome interior on a Cayman?
I wouldn’t use it. It just doesn’t hold up. Sanding the plastic chrome takes away the mirror finish so you might as well use a different product. Even with the 2k clear my badges have eventually chipped and slightly faded.
Great vid with all that was explained. I want to preserve the original chrome on bull bar. Im beginner at car painting and my approach is to apply a clear coat to preserve original chrome before shadow chrome & 2K clear. Would this be the right approach? Without scuffing or adhesion promotor does this leave shadow chrome frail to car wash scrubbing? Is 2K clear ok to be used on chrome DUB rims and door handles?
So you are thinking clear with shadow chrome on top then more clear? My guess is it will adhere but you’ll never get it off without damaging the chrome. I just suggest doing what I did and try some test chrome pieces to find out!
With the 2k clear it might last awhile but I’m sure it will wear away quick where the elements are. Maybe just do the part that can be seen from the back?
What did you use as your base coat white shadow Crome and what base did you use with the rustoleum black chrome I tried the black chrome on my rims and it turned out a gun metal color I even painted them with a chrome spray first trying to find out where I went wrong
When you say you used the 2k clear over the shadow chrome, does that include the shadow chrome clear included with the kit and then the 2k aswell. Or did you just eliminate it all together. And how many coats of the 2k.
@@JetFuelOnly that's good to hear. I'm not so sure that I'll go ahead with my project though, I was hoping it would hold up a bit better. Chrome is a tricky one to paint.
First, your videos on Shadow Chrome are outstanding! Thank you! My experience with Shadow Chrome is that it works well and it can look great once you learn to resist the urge to apply too many coats. How many coats of the K2 did you apply? I've found that the included clear coat is not very durable, and it also diminishes the clarity of the Shadow Chrome base coat. It looks like K2 will improve both of these conditions.
I would probably scuff the emblem pretty good, hit it with a light spray of good primer, then id use a spray chrome, then the shadow. That way all the layers can bond into eachother and have bite into the scuffed surface.
@@JetFuelOnly Dupicolor has a bright metallic base coat designed to go under the metalcast black smoke, it looks great, but I've also seen it put over their Dupicolor Chrome product and it looks outstanding.....that Dupicolor metalcast black smoke is designed to go over chrome paint. You should be good to go using either one of those....metallic base coat might be more durable but visually you'll probably slightly prefer going over the Chrome paint. Either should be more durable than what you're doing because it allows you to scuff the surface....you can cover 600 grit with either of those as a base coat.
Make sure you do some good layers of 2k clear. Maybe even do paint protection film over it. But if the chrome grill has dings in it they will be highlighted by the paint
Thanks for the video, great work!! I'm looking at buying my son his first car this weekend and want to do this to the chrome wheels on the car. If you were doing it on wheels, which of the 2 paints would you recommend for the base coat? I'll definitely use the 2k to finish it up. Thanks!
Bro THANKS im doing upgrades on my KAWASAKI i was thinking on the color i wanted to Paint it i know Now i want the fram DUPLI COLOR SHADOW CHROME awesome color
Hey thanks for asking. From what I can tell there is some fading even with 2k clear. Also one of my badges have chipped but I’m going to say there may have been a prep issue. Overall I would say the product isn’t worth it.
When you wet sand you should never use your fingers it makes for uneven Surface pressure, you should use a foam block or rubber sanding block. Use a wet Ultrafine Paper and soke sandpaper in water for a few minutes and then you don't want to push any pressure really and you can't use too much water u want the surface nice an wet. An remember that paint has flash times and it's a time between coats because the vapours release from the paint as it Drys and if you don't wait for the vapours to Escape before u put another coat of paint, you trap the vapours in between the layers of paint, which causes blisters and all other kinds of problems. An with a car freshly painted you shouldn't do anything to the point for a month. So spray paint u want to try an let it sit for a few days make sure that is completely dry. An if you want to try an clean just the surface lightly try to use a Medium to light clay bar it's easier on the paint with a clay bar after your done u can shine it up by hand. Wet sanding is pretty ruff for a few coats of spray paint and you should buff with a good wax or paint sealant of some kind to help protect the surface. An some new Vinyl is easier to use nowadays and when done right will not only protect whatever your putting it on after a while or you get a bug in your ace and decide you want to change the colours or whatever you can warm up the Vinyl and peel it off an start without messing up your paint job... might help you out in the future good luck and ya get what you pay for when it comes to paint and the time you put in to it. Cheap and fast y'all shouldn't expect much
You discuss the problem with using adhesion promoter, even trying to polish the finish. What if you used the the adhesion promoter, then polished and cleaned the part, then finished the part with the desired black chrome finish? In other words, treat the adhesion promoter like the primer that it is, and flatten the surface before applying the black chrome? Regarding buffing the part with a scrubbing pad. The abrasive pad could be used to produce a brushed metal finish, then finished with the black chrome. You’d have to pay attention to how you abraded the surface, so that the finish looks intentional, and not just worn. Let’s be careful out there.
The adhesion promotor isn't very thick like a primer. I've tried a little of that. Either way, this latest iteration of shadow chrome worked out really well and is holding up.
This is a great video! Pardon the comment 14 months later, but do you think the Shadow Chrome would essentially match a Mazda CX-5 Carbon front wing under the grill? The grill is black, but there's a 'wing' underneath the grill that resembles Shadow Chrome. I've been struggling coming up with my own name such as 'smoke chrome' and 'black chrome' but I think black chrome from videos I've seen of yours are pushing it too far black.
As always..a paint job of any kind is only as good as the prep work! No ifs ands or buts about it! Adhesion promoter is meant for raw plastic parts. It is necessary when painting those brand new plastics with no primer applied. Without it paint will not stick! When painting such translucent finishes like these on parts like these you need to sand with lightest media possible..gray scotch brite pad..sponge pad..anything heavy will surely show through after clear coat shrinks when it dries. You need to understand why things do what they do and how to deal with what you are working with or looking at
Jet Fuel Only I must've missed the prepping part. I'm not sure what you are referring to with adhesion but if it's the adhesion promoter, I don't think it would add any benefit in this application. If it was a new mirror cover from say, Toyota or Nissan specifically, they don't come pre primed. So that's where the promoter is absolutely needed. Although I've seen bulldog adhesion promoter used with success in a lot of applications that weren't raw plastics. In reality those "chrome" parts aren't really supposed to be refinished. We always try anyway and the results are never consistent. I did think your comparison was thorough and enough for me to make a decision on which one to try
you're trying to duplicate PVM nitride black chrome? welpo first off the first coat is a black powder coating, then the next step is a vacuum chamber with nitride oxide less than .003" layered on.. with these paints you don't paint OVER CHROME!!!
The idea here is to find a simple DIY to black chrome. And… according to the instructions you do paint over chrome. It’s been holding up well with a strong clear coat.
@@JetFuelOnly I followed the directions on the can, it's plastic chrome that I'm dealing with but it came out a dark brown or bronze color. I'm thinking of trying black chrome rust-oleum next time.
@@22mell01 how many coats? You gotta be really thin and only do 3-4. If you do the rustoleum you will need that 2k clear or adhesion promoter for sure. The panel I did with regular clear literally washed off with hose pressure
@@JetFuelOnly I don't remember how many coats I did but I know it was more then 3 but even still I noticed a brownish color chrome while putting the coats on. After all was said and done I tossed those cans in the trash and concreted on doing other mods to my car.
Man, I was just about to start spraying my Tundra with the Rustoleum and Lacquer. I’m glad I watched this video first😅. Thanks for doing this video. 🎉
Thank you for your efforts with this experiment. I am using your videos for guidance in refinishing chrome
drumset hardware. Shadow Chrome and 2K Clear appear to be the winners here. Cheers..
Dude that 2k stuff makes a huge difference. I just used vht nightshade for my tail lights on my s10 xtreme turned out good with whatever clear coat i used but totally getting that 2k stuff. That black chrome totally gonna try my door handles and the chrome trim on the grill. Great vids bro
Update 7/10/23:
Even with 2k clear this will chip away over time. My front badge has chipped a bit and one of my rear badges as well. I also believe they have faded a little (hard to tell). Overall I would say don’t use this product.
Dang, that's disappointing. I wonder if VHT Nightshade would work better? It's meant to go over plastic on like tail lights, so might adhere better.
@AK_Ray maybe? It also has a green hue. I think I tested it off camera but it was so bad I didn’t use it. Plus I do know it fades for sure
@@JetFuelOnly you're in a desert climate right?
@@AK_Ray no I’m in coastal California
Thank you for your efforts,do you think a couple extra coats of 2k might help in preserving the finish over time?
Thank u man, u took a lot of guessing and money wasting out of the equation, definitely subscribing
In pro paint shops plastic parts are always scuffed thoroughly with 3M 7447 Scotch Brite red pads, that's approx 400 grit, cleaned then adhesion promoter, then color coat, I like to dust the part with a guide coat to ensure thorough scuffing, good content
You don't know what you are talking about. You have no Clue of how Painting of New Bare Plastic Bumpers are done. First of all only an Idiot would use a Red Scuff Pad, you should only use a Gray Scuff Pad. Then you clean the Bare Plastic bumper with a Special Plastic cleaner, you wipe on and wipe off, you don't clean it with Adhesion Promoter. After cleaning you Spray 1 or 2 light coats of the Adhesion Promoter, then you MUST spray 1 or 2 light coats of a correct colored Sealer, and only then its ready for the Base Coat and Clearcoat. Every step of yours is totally wrong.
Seriously want to know the outcome. I really like the dark chrome look and i want to do this to all my chrome
Yes, the adhesive promoter in my opinion is not good. The 2 K Clear is awesome stuff. I did my Mirrors and used the 2 K clear. Wow strong stuff. I scuffed up my side mirrors then painted with a light grey Primer (3 coats) the wet sanded with 600 grit. Then I used Red Obsession GM Paint (5 light coats) let dry then used the 2 K Clear. They look awesome. I wanted that Championship Edition Look and omg it looks just like it. Super smooth finish. Your primer color really does make a difference on the finally finish! That’s why I used the light Grey Primer. Gave me that perfect look I was looking for. The 2 K clear really gave it that clean look and protection. Will see how it holds up. I used The 2 K clear on my front grill and badges. Love the stuff. I spray all my badges laying down but i use double sided tape on a small little box to left the badges off the ground so when spraying it covers all the edges evenly. That works so much better. Great video once again. Thank you.
Great vid. I want to experiment with A. Light sanding adhesion promoter B. Layering adhesion promoter> 2kclear> shadowchrome> 2kclear for max adhesion/reflection/minimize orange peel
Thank you for making my life easier with all your efforts.
can't stop looking at your magnificent quiff
im unsealing my headlights and painting the reflector with something like this. the shadow chrome is something I can get easily enough and the 2k clear seems like a good combo to go with it. the goal is to get a blacked out look while not sacrificing a ton of reflectivity, for legal reasons.
Good plan, I highly suggest practicing with shadow chrome before you start on your headlights. It’s not easy to work with!
Great job and Thank You for the thorough video.
-Definitely built confidence for DIY guys hesitant to make/break the look of their vehicle
Hi mate I used rust oleum black chrome spray paint and it was great finish and product
Thank you alot for this video! I was looking to change the Chrome on my 2016 Honda Civic and wanted to do something different to the chrome parts than just black. Black chrome I think will be a nice looking alternative But I do worry about chipping on the front end across the grille. I think I may try it.
Nice! I'm doing a projector retro fit and about to shadow chrome. This video saved me! Cheers!
My wife gouged her PVD black chrome wheels. Can i sand the gouges out prime, paint them black then use these products to try to imitate the factory finish?
I don’t think it will imitate it. This will have that slight hue to it and I think it will be obvious. I think you’re better off using some model enamel, black or dark gray that’s been diluted.
you have to sand before you use promoter.
Generally you would be right but that’s not how this is designed. There’s no chrome to make black chrome if you sand it.
I liked the comprehensive testing. You did a good job working out the variables! Thanks for answering my questions before I'd asked!
Appreciate the recognition!
You answer my question about clear coat thank you so much
im about to do this to my cts...i have the shadow chrome kit and the prep spray...do you reccomend i stick with just the kit?
I suggest you don’t use the adhesion promoter. Just the shadow chrome and use 2k clear. Skip the clear in the box
Great video man. Appreciate all of your effort and your energy. Keep it up!!
Thank you!
Attempted to use shadow chrome on the stock chrome interior trim on my ‘21 718, blotched easily and I wasn’t ready to sand and make it permanent so I aborted. I’m sure a light wet sanding would solve that problem? Have you any experience on shadow chroming chrome interior on a Cayman?
I wouldn’t use it. It just doesn’t hold up. Sanding the plastic chrome takes away the mirror finish so you might as well use a different product. Even with the 2k clear my badges have eventually chipped and slightly faded.
Hey buddy. What adhesive are you using to reapply your badges ? / product to get the old adhesive off?
Just 3M automotive adhesive tape. There’s a liquid form too. To get it off mostly rolling it off with my fingers, some goo gone and microfiber.
Great vid with all that was explained. I want to preserve the original chrome on bull bar. Im beginner at car painting and my approach is to apply a clear coat to preserve original chrome before shadow chrome & 2K clear. Would this be the right approach? Without scuffing or adhesion promotor does this leave shadow chrome frail to car wash scrubbing? Is 2K clear ok to be used on chrome DUB rims and door handles?
So you are thinking clear with shadow chrome on top then more clear? My guess is it will adhere but you’ll never get it off without damaging the chrome. I just suggest doing what I did and try some test chrome pieces to find out!
Let’s say I do a grill, will it hold under a pressure washer?
The shadow chrome will with 2k clear. The black chrome washed right off my test piece like a peach skin.
Can I use this on stainless steel mufflers or will it chip away immediately.
With the 2k clear it might last awhile but I’m sure it will wear away quick where the elements are. Maybe just do the part that can be seen from the back?
What did you use as your base coat white shadow Crome and what base did you use with the rustoleum black chrome I tried the black chrome on my rims and it turned out a gun metal color I even painted them with a chrome spray first trying to find out where I went wrong
No base. Following the instructions you spray directly on the chrome. But chrome spray paint probably isn’t the same.
When you say you used the 2k clear over the shadow chrome, does that include the shadow chrome clear included with the kit and then the 2k aswell. Or did you just eliminate it all together. And how many coats of the 2k.
No, skipped the shadow chrome clear can.... 2k only
You should do a pitting chrome rim with does product
The pits on a chrome rim will look bad. They collect the color and make it look spotty
Hi.. does this work on plastic bumpers?
Not unless they are mirror finish
Any updates on how well it's held up? I'm think about using the Shadow Chrome with the 2K clear coat.
It’s holding up great! One small cracked and fell off though. But 90% if all I did is in tact and not faded
@@JetFuelOnly that's good to hear. I'm not so sure that I'll go ahead with my project though, I was hoping it would hold up a bit better. Chrome is a tricky one to paint.
Would love to see what it looks like on a grille or bumpers
Yeah but I think it wouldn’t be able to take the abuse. 😕
First, your videos on Shadow Chrome are outstanding! Thank you! My experience with Shadow Chrome is that it works well and it can look great once you learn to resist the urge to apply too many coats.
How many coats of the K2 did you apply? I've found that the included clear coat is not very durable, and it also diminishes the clarity of the Shadow Chrome base coat. It looks like K2 will improve both of these conditions.
Thanks! It’s definitely not like your typical paint. I think I did 2 or 3 coats of K2
Should I use the 2k clear instead of the shadow chromes clear coat or with the shadows chromes clear coat?
Yes
@@JetFuelOnly yes to which one? 😂
2k clear
I would probably scuff the emblem pretty good, hit it with a light spray of good primer, then id use a spray chrome, then the shadow. That way all the layers can bond into eachother and have bite into the scuffed surface.
The spray chrome idea… no one has mentioned that idea. Good for you thinking outside the box! Only issue is to hope the two don’t react!
@@JetFuelOnly Dupicolor has a bright metallic base coat designed to go under the metalcast black smoke, it looks great, but I've also seen it put over their Dupicolor Chrome product and it looks outstanding.....that Dupicolor metalcast black smoke is designed to go over chrome paint. You should be good to go using either one of those....metallic base coat might be more durable but visually you'll probably slightly prefer going over the Chrome paint. Either should be more durable than what you're doing because it allows you to scuff the surface....you can cover 600 grit with either of those as a base coat.
Was all your painting done on plastic?
I’m looking use this product on aluminum Diamond plate.
Any suggestions?
Yeah all plastic parts I think.
Appreciate the video. Imma just paint the parts because that look just don't look right unfortunately
How about using black spray tint people use on tail lights etc?
Greenish hue. Also tends to fade but 2k clear might prevent the fading.
Any news on weather the 2K clear coat disagreed at all with the different paint underneath?
Thanks for asking! It’s totally fine!
Debating weather or not to do my grill for my 67 Thunderbird any thoughts or recommendations would be appreciated
Make sure you do some good layers of 2k clear. Maybe even do paint protection film over it. But if the chrome grill has dings in it they will be highlighted by the paint
What about a light wet sand with an 800 grit on the adhesion promoter before the shadow chrome application
That could maybe work! But it would have to look pretty smooth
Thanks for all the helpful vids! Can't wait to try this
Do you recommend polishing shadow chrome clear
yeah you can polish pretty much any clear coat, but I recommend getting 2k clear instead
That 2k clear is super hardy. I painted a bike with it and it held up really really well to stone chips, falls, airline travel etc
Where do you find the 2k clear coat. I’m looking but all it shows me is 2x.
I had to order it. Sometimes paint stores carry it
Do they sell the blackout by itself so you can get the 2k and not have the unnecessary can of clear coat?
Don’t think so
Thanks for the video, great work!! I'm looking at buying my son his first car this weekend and want to do this to the chrome wheels on the car. If you were doing it on wheels, which of the 2 paints would you recommend for the base coat? I'll definitely use the 2k to finish it up. Thanks!
I worry that both of these would deteriorate from road rash but enough coats of clear I love the shadow chrome the most.
Can it be applied to rear shocks?
I wouldn’t put this anywhere it will be abused by the elements
Bro THANKS im doing upgrades on my KAWASAKI i was thinking on the color i wanted to Paint it i know Now i want the fram DUPLI COLOR
SHADOW CHROME
awesome color
Nice! Practice first! It takes very little and use that 2k clear!
Usually paint or primer will not stick to any chrome plating. Better is to use vinyl wrap black chrome
Not easy to do on emblems.
Brother, can i use Shadow Chrome on the headlight frame?
Yeah I think so!
Do I need chrome wheels to do this? I've just got 4x4 wheels I was going to sand blast and prime and then shadow chrome
I don’t recommend this product on wheels. Too much road debris will have them looking bad in no time.
No worries there's another option to have powder coated black chrome
@@dannyg9948 I would definitely do that. My wheels are done in Prismatic powders ultra black chrome I think. Not the same but I like it.
Any update on this video
Hey thanks for asking. From what I can tell there is some fading even with 2k clear. Also one of my badges have chipped but I’m going to say there may have been a prep issue. Overall I would say the product isn’t worth it.
I don't want a two pack kit, only the shadow paint.
Hope this is not like the dupli copper plate system, when i only need the copper aerosol paint.
Do you have to buy the kit. But you’ll want to buy better clearcoat
When you wet sand you should never use your fingers it makes for uneven Surface pressure, you should use a foam block or rubber sanding block. Use a wet Ultrafine
Paper and soke sandpaper in water for a few minutes and then you don't want to push any pressure really and you can't use too much water u want the surface nice an wet. An remember that paint has flash times and it's a time between coats because the vapours release from the paint as it Drys and if you don't wait for the vapours to Escape before u put another coat of paint, you trap the vapours in between the layers of paint, which causes blisters and all other kinds of problems. An with a car freshly painted you shouldn't do anything to the point for a month. So spray paint u want to try an let it sit for a few days make sure that is completely dry. An if you want to try an clean just the surface lightly try to use a Medium to light clay bar it's easier on the paint with a clay bar after your done u can shine it up by hand. Wet sanding is pretty ruff for a few coats of spray paint and you should buff with a good wax or paint sealant of some kind to help protect the surface. An some new Vinyl is easier to use nowadays and when done right will not only protect whatever your putting it on after a while or you get a bug in your ace and decide you want to change the colours or whatever you can warm up the Vinyl and peel it off an start without messing up your paint job... might help you out in the future good luck and ya get what you pay for when it comes to paint and the time you put in to it. Cheap and fast y'all shouldn't expect much
Bro that was so confusing I just had to fast forward and take your word on the best one 😂
You discuss the problem with using adhesion promoter, even trying to polish the finish.
What if you used the the adhesion promoter, then polished and cleaned the part, then finished the part with the desired black chrome finish?
In other words, treat the adhesion promoter like the primer that it is, and flatten the surface before applying the black chrome?
Regarding buffing the part with a scrubbing pad.
The abrasive pad could be used to produce a brushed metal finish, then finished with the black chrome. You’d have to pay attention to how you abraded the surface, so that the finish looks intentional, and not just worn.
Let’s be careful out there.
The adhesion promotor isn't very thick like a primer. I've tried a little of that. Either way, this latest iteration of shadow chrome worked out really well and is holding up.
Do you take orders doing this? I'd like to smoke the chrome on my 2013 ATS
No sorry, it’s a DIY! You can do it!
@@JetFuelOnly No, I really cannot. But I'll keep shopping. I am thankful for your video though, good job on it.
This is a great video! Pardon the comment 14 months later, but do you think the Shadow Chrome would essentially match a Mazda CX-5 Carbon front wing under the grill? The grill is black, but there's a 'wing' underneath the grill that resembles Shadow Chrome. I've been struggling coming up with my own name such as 'smoke chrome' and 'black chrome' but I think black chrome from videos I've seen of yours are pushing it too far black.
Mazda has beautiful black chrome accents and wheels. I always notice them. But it’s definitely darker and better than the shadow chrome
Try clearing the chrome then scuffing it before applying the shadow
Just check royal Enfield gt 650 limited edition and if u can match its dark chrome colour
is one kit ok for 4 rims
Probably. You spray VERY light coats otherwise it will look green. But don’t use on rims without using 2k clear!
Why no primer?
The shadow chrome is transparent. You can’t put anything under it otherwise the mirrored chrome won’t show through
Superman logo on the caddy !!👌🏼lol
Adrian Ruiz I have the Decepticon emblem on mine! Makes her mean looking. Lol. It lights up and night also! It’s on my front License plate.
Try stretching the vinyl then the orange peel goes away
As always..a paint job of any kind is only as good as the prep work! No ifs ands or buts about it! Adhesion promoter is meant for raw plastic parts. It is necessary when painting those brand new plastics with no primer applied. Without it paint will not stick! When painting such translucent finishes like these on parts like these you need to sand with lightest media possible..gray scotch brite pad..sponge pad..anything heavy will surely show through after clear coat shrinks when it dries. You need to understand why things do what they do and how to deal with what you are working with or looking at
Did you see that I used a gray scotch brite pad and it shows through? Also it had no better adhesion than other methods.
Jet Fuel Only I must've missed the prepping part. I'm not sure what you are referring to with adhesion but if it's the adhesion promoter, I don't think it would add any benefit in this application. If it was a new mirror cover from say, Toyota or Nissan specifically, they don't come pre primed. So that's where the promoter is absolutely needed. Although I've seen bulldog adhesion promoter used with success in a lot of applications that weren't raw plastics. In reality those "chrome" parts aren't really supposed to be refinished. We always try anyway and the results are never consistent. I did think your comparison was thorough and enough for me to make a decision on which one to try
2k ckear 20 dollars?
Here the metalcast paints alone cost 23 dollars. The normal clear coat can cost 27 dollars.
If you want a good black chrome polish it so much it will look black
Instead of telling people they are wrong in comments, just create content to show them....
yeah... scuff it first. go for it....
What happened to that pinned comment? Smh
Still there, you don’t see it?
@Jet Fuel Only I actually just saw it. Thanks!
you're trying to duplicate PVM nitride black chrome? welpo first off the first coat is a black powder coating, then the next step is a vacuum chamber with nitride oxide less than .003" layered on.. with these paints you don't paint OVER CHROME!!!
The idea here is to find a simple DIY to black chrome. And… according to the instructions you do paint over chrome.
It’s been holding up well with a strong clear coat.
That shadow chrome sucked on my chrome it was shadow brown.
Sorry to hear! Did you apply it the way I did?
@@JetFuelOnly I followed the directions on the can, it's plastic chrome that I'm dealing with but it came out a dark brown or bronze color. I'm thinking of trying black chrome rust-oleum next time.
@@22mell01 how many coats? You gotta be really thin and only do 3-4. If you do the rustoleum you will need that 2k clear or adhesion promoter for sure. The panel I did with regular clear literally washed off with hose pressure
@@JetFuelOnly I don't remember how many coats I did but I know it was more then 3 but even still I noticed a brownish color chrome while putting the coats on. After all was said and done I tossed those cans in the trash and concreted on doing other mods to my car.
I did four coats over chrome and it turned dark green!
👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
Lung cancer vibes
Way too confusing
Man you are confusing !
Thanks. That’s what the ladies say…
You made it too complicated with too many variables