Thanks for the information I'm working on a g body also. I have one question how many wires do you have going to the small terminal on the starter and how many on the big terminal from g body harness just looking for verification I have some wiring issues.
Thanks you..... really help love the videos! What did you do about the Camaro fbody headers on the driver side I don't know to cut it or let the muffler shop make a S style pip to work. I bought the same ones off eBay as in the older video.
Hey man this vid helped alot. Doing a c1500 91 ls swap and trying to figure out what wire to hook up to the crank signal and 12v when the power is on but cant figure it out the diagram and got no power to the truck to check it lol any tips?
Yo video cut off on me at the end I wanted to know does that last wire that thick red one that you were holding at the end is that for the power or ignition and I have to tap my alternator wire to the Cutlass old alternator wire and the same thing for the starter I tie the old starter wire from the Cutlass in with my LS swap harness starter wire
F-body headers from eBay. At the time, there were very few alternatives. I wouldn't do it again. You may have to pay up, but just get the correct G-body swap headers.
@@JDP15 It's a white colored switch that is connected to the top of the steering column shaft down towards the bottom. You can adjust it by hand. It moves from side to side. It's kind of hard to explain.
Question...did you delete the backup lamp supply wire A9 Green out of the harness that goes to neutral/safety switch connector or did you connect it somewhere? I have the 4l80e also and I'm not sure what to do with this wire.
The harness I bought didn't have a Park Neutral Safety Switch or back up lights. I want to add them to my LS Conversion. Might you know which wires are needed to add to the Red or Blue Connectors so I can connect them to the park neutral switch on the transmission? Thank you in advance for your help.
It' been a LONG time, but I believe the MIL indicator is a ground to activate circuit. If you ground the "brown wire" does the MIL activate? If it does, then check the MIL output pin on the PCM for continuity to ground when active. The HPtuners diagnostic program allows you to manually toggle the MIL if I recall. I believe I just ran the PCM MIL pin directly to the lamp on the dash, but you might want to make sure you PCM can support the current draw. Maybe use a small relay just to be safe.
SO TELL ME IF IM CLOSE OR MOSTLY RIGHT HERE; typicaly GM runs a very large 12v cable directly from battery to starter. Then a large ground from starter to frame or engine block. then a still large but smaller cable directly from +12V starter post to fuseblock under the dash, this is the feed for fuseblock and also a much smaller wire from the key igntion switch back out to the starter which triggers the bendix to kickin and starter to turnover? if this is correct can i reuse the large red wire from starter to fuseblock to refeed fuseblock, and i can reuse that trigger wire to the new LS fuseblock to trigger starter from ls fuseblock/harness?
Doesn't relate to video but what did you use for drive shaft m? Length wise I've heard if you running a 4l60e you need to cut the stock one down about 3"
When you ran the pink wire did you only run it to the ignition wire on the harness and into the relay ? That’s how i did mines but it cranks but don’t want to start up not sure what is giving power to the fuse box
Was the pcm programmed to accept just one wire going to your safety switch, believe that white wire you're talking about is 34 on the blue connector, I'm still try to learn this wiring.
I might have been wrong about the PCM needing PN safety. You wouldn't really need it anyway. The wiring in the column will provide PN safety via starter interrupt.
Dunno if anyone cares but if you guys are stoned like me atm you can watch pretty much all of the new series on instaflixxer. I've been binge watching with my girlfriend these days :)
I can't remember all the wiring you need to keep, but the ignition wire (the one attached to the distributor) and the purple starter wire for sure. You can get the engine running with just those two and a ground wire.
I used a Lokar kit which was basically a straight stainless rod and some hardware. You have to bend the rod to make it work. It's a PIA and would not do it again.
At the very end of the video, you can see that large pink wire. That's the one for the ignition. The video ran out before I could finish explaining. 8:00
No it doesn't. There are solutions to make the OE speedo work, but I plan to go Dakota Digital at some point. The car hasn't been touched in months. Cooler weather is here, so I'll be back on it is shortly.
Yes, it should be the same or very close. You shouldn't have to extend your starter wire due to the Chevy starters being on the passenger side of the car. See my other videos for the check engine light wiring.
Yeah, damn phone stopped recording on me. The wire that originally was connected to the distributor now becomes the ignition relay feed for the LS engine. It's that simple.
It's a Lokar dipstick. I don't particularly like it, but there is very little clearance between the engine and the firewall. The dipstick comes with an adapter to make filling the trans easier. It's not the ideal setup in my opinion.
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I’ve been searching for this information for 2 months until I seen your video .. big thanks man
Just found your swap videos. Love them keep em coming.
Thank you 😊 🙏🏾
dude super thankful for this. doing a swap with my dad and idk g bodys too well. this is just what i needed !
Cool....let me know if u need help
Thank you, got my g body up and running!!!!!
Liked, subbed and added to favorites. Thank you for this info! Gonna start my 85 Cutlass LS swap soon and this info in invaluable.
Cheers from Kuwait.
Thanks for the information I'm working on a g body also. I have one question how many wires do you have going to the small terminal on the starter and how many on the big terminal from g body harness just looking for verification I have some wiring issues.
Thanks you..... really help love the videos! What did you do about the Camaro fbody headers on the driver side I don't know to cut it or let the muffler shop make a S style pip to work. I bought the same ones off eBay as in the older video.
I made my own "S" pipe out of pre-bent mandrel bends from Summit. If I had to do it over again, I would just have the muffler shop make one.
Hey man this vid helped alot. Doing a c1500 91 ls swap and trying to figure out what wire to hook up to the crank signal and 12v when the power is on but cant figure it out the diagram and got no power to the truck to check it lol any tips?
Wiring GURU!👍
Yo video cut off on me at the end I wanted to know does that last wire that thick red one that you were holding at the end is that for the power or ignition and I have to tap my alternator wire to the Cutlass old alternator wire and the same thing for the starter I tie the old starter wire from the Cutlass in with my LS swap harness starter wire
Yolanda Thomas dame shit i was tryna figure out! Just left us hangin
What headers did u use if u remember man this video helped me so much thats appreciate it
F-body headers from eBay. At the time, there were very few alternatives. I wouldn't do it again. You may have to pay up, but just get the correct G-body swap headers.
Did your reverse lights work or did you have to do some extra wiring to get them to work?
Reverse lights work as stock. I did have to adjust the switch due to the gate differences between the stock trans and the 80e.
@@n5yiz where is the switch located
@@JDP15 It's a white colored switch that is connected to the top of the steering column shaft down towards the bottom. You can adjust it by hand. It moves from side to side. It's kind of hard to explain.
Question...did you delete the backup lamp supply wire A9 Green out of the harness that goes to neutral/safety switch connector or did you connect it somewhere? I have the 4l80e also and I'm not sure what to do with this wire.
@@montariusstuart1431 I really can't remember. I'll be working on the Cutlass soon. I'll check then.
Did you elimanate the oroginal computer and wires?
The harness I bought didn't have a Park Neutral Safety Switch or back up lights. I want to add them to my LS Conversion. Might you know which wires are needed to add to the Red or Blue Connectors so I can connect them to the park neutral switch on the transmission? Thank you in advance for your help.
My harness didn't come with it either... what did you do about it ?
@@Bball128 I just reached out to a wiring manufacturer tech support I believe speedway. They helped me even though it wasn't their product.
@@smithjo4152 so what did you have to do?
@@Bball128 they told me how to wire the neutral safety switch.
@@smithjo4152 so you can tell me right... lol
Where did you hook the purple wire to, im running a holley terminatorxmax and cant get the torque converter to lock up... 1987 cutlass
How did you hook up the mil lamp (brown wire) up? For the engine light.
It' been a LONG time, but I believe the MIL indicator is a ground to activate circuit. If you ground the "brown wire" does the MIL activate? If it does, then check the MIL output pin on the PCM for continuity to ground when active. The HPtuners diagnostic program allows you to manually toggle the MIL if I recall.
I believe I just ran the PCM MIL pin directly to the lamp on the dash, but you might want to make sure you PCM can support the current draw. Maybe use a small relay just to be safe.
SO TELL ME IF IM CLOSE OR MOSTLY RIGHT HERE;
typicaly GM runs a very large 12v cable directly from battery to starter. Then a large ground from starter to frame or engine block.
then a still large but smaller cable directly from +12V starter post to fuseblock under the dash, this is the feed for fuseblock
and also a much smaller wire from the key igntion switch back out to the starter which triggers the bendix to kickin and starter to turnover?
if this is correct can i reuse the large red wire from starter to fuseblock to refeed fuseblock, and i can reuse that trigger wire to the new LS fuseblock to trigger starter from ls fuseblock/harness?
Doesn't relate to video but what did you use for drive shaft m? Length wise I've heard if you running a 4l60e you need to cut the stock one down about 3"
Luis Zenteno I had a driveshaft made at a local shop.
Are you sure it's the purple wire I'm testing it and nothing works but on my 83 cutlass 4 door it's the white wire next to the purple..???
Are you talking about the converter lock/unlock?
Hey whats up bro.. just dod this to my 86 cutlass and now my reverse lights come on with my break lights lol any idea what i might have done wrong??
When you ran the pink wire did you only run it to the ignition wire on the harness and into the relay ? That’s how i did mines but it cranks but don’t want to start up not sure what is giving power to the fuse box
Make sure the ignition wire has power during cranking. That's a common mistake. If it's cranking you should be getting close.
Jason Owens did u ever figure out your wiring problem
Was the pcm programmed to accept just one wire going to your safety switch, believe that white wire you're talking about is 34 on the blue connector, I'm still try to learn this wiring.
I might have been wrong about the PCM needing PN safety. You wouldn't really need it anyway. The wiring in the column will provide PN safety via starter interrupt.
Wish you or someone with your knowledge lived near me id pay you for your help. I want to swap my 87 cutlass salon badly.
Can i completely remove the other pigtail from the factory ECU and the factory diagnostic port?
@@blocscustomz It's been so long I don't remember. Make sure the harness with the ALDL is not the one that contains the starter and ignition wires.
@@n5yiz looks like none of them do.
So the purple TCC wire coming from my ls harness, Do I just tap into the purple wire located in the kick panel?
Dunno if anyone cares but if you guys are stoned like me atm you can watch pretty much all of the new series on instaflixxer. I've been binge watching with my girlfriend these days :)
@Torin Carl Yea, have been watching on InstaFlixxer for years myself =)
Did u ever figure it out im stuck on that too
It cuts off right as I get to the distributor wire where do I need to put that
Did you use the stock converter with the 4l80
The car is sold, but it had a Circle D converter. I don't remember the stall.
im about to do a LS swap on my 84 monte carlo ss.. what factory wiring do i need to keep installed in the car?
I can't remember all the wiring you need to keep, but the ignition wire (the one attached to the distributor) and the purple starter wire for sure. You can get the engine running with just those two and a ground wire.
How did you set up your shift linkages?
I used a Lokar kit which was basically a straight stainless rod and some hardware. You have to bend the rod to make it work. It's a PIA and would not do it again.
Need help connecting my original alternator and water light 85 Buick lesabre. If u can
Which igniton wire did you use? And was it directly off the switch?
I used the stock wire that was connected to the distributor.
At the very end of the video, you can see that large pink wire. That's the one for the ignition. The video ran out before I could finish explaining. 8:00
What about the ignition wire
What harness did you use??
I used the factory LQ4 harness that I re-worked.
Dose anyone know what wires hooks to the junction box on firewall? On 85
K5.
I'm taking about the brake switch
Would this stop it from starting in drive?
@@Glam1972 Are you talking about the neutral safety switch? It's been a long time, but I don't remember that being a problem.
@@n5yiz I swapped my cutlass with a 6.2 6l80 it starts in park doesn’t start in reverse or neutral but starts in drive and will take off
@pmoore4321 can I tap the tcc wire from my harness to the tcc wire in the cutlass?
Without unplugging the connector?
@@mr.johnson9589 I'm not sure. It's been a long time since I messed with that project.
@@n5yiz ok thanks
I need the video before this one
So are you using the factory cluster
factory cluster
@@n5yiz cause I see you removed the plug for the cluster
Does anybody know the number of the pinout neutral on the computer
Does the speedometer work?
No it doesn't. There are solutions to make the OE speedo work, but I plan to go Dakota Digital at some point. The car hasn't been touched in months. Cooler weather is here, so I'll be back on it is shortly.
I would love to find the factory radio like that omg lol
They are all over eBay. Not rare at all. I pulled that one out of a Grand National.
@@n5yiz Where's that Grand National?
@@arireid1245 gone
Would this be similar to an El Camino?
Yes, it should be the same or very close. You shouldn't have to extend your starter wire due to the Chevy starters being on the passenger side of the car. See my other videos for the check engine light wiring.
pmoore4321 you mentioned something about the distributed wire. The video ended before you could finish and will do
Yeah, damn phone stopped recording on me. The wire that originally was connected to the distributor now becomes the ignition relay feed for the LS engine. It's that simple.
pmoore4321 thanks bro for breaking it down. It's like these cars were just waiting to get an LS
yep, I just wish I was better at the tuning. I'm lost with HP tuners....steep learning curve.
Hey can you do my cutlass
What trans dipstick did u run?
It's a Lokar dipstick. I don't particularly like it, but there is very little clearance between the engine and the firewall. The dipstick comes with an adapter to make filling the trans easier. It's not the ideal setup in my opinion.