Product Review 01 - Vallejo Acrylic Metal Color
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- In the first video of our Product Review series, we cover the Vallejo Acrylic Metal Color line, a new line of steel colored, airbrush friendly paints from Vallejo.
Rating: A+ - A tad expensive and hard to find in the states, but worth every penny.
Twitter: @warhammerweekly
The War Store Metal Color: www.thewarstore...
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Almost 5 years later I can truly say: I'm happy that you have a better mic these days ^.^
I am very happy about it as well. :)
Hey @@VinceVenturella! Vallejo has changed the formula on these. I just got a pack of engine colors and on the label is "New Formula". Have you heard what the difference is?
Lord have mercy, my search for the perfect metallics ends today!!
They are just amazing paints, the only steel metal I ever use. It's just incredible.
These paints have changed my metal painting live! Thank you for helping popularize them!
Always happy to help. :)
I just picked some of these up- just steel, dark aluminum and silver and my mind was blown within 60 seconds of playing around with them. I've always felt true metallics tricky if not downright hard, and these have changed everything for me in this aspect of painting. Thank you, Vince!
I now want that Empire cannon too lol
Yep, it's a completely different world. Once you try these, all other metal paints fall away.
7:00 The formulation might have changed over the years, but I have really come to like Chrome (more than Silver when going for highly reflective metal). Recently painted an elf with Chrome from the top and Steel from the bottom and the chrome was so reflective that I was convinced that I overflooded the model while airbrushing Chrome. While painting the other parts I realized that the "color" of the chrome changed and I was looking at a real reflection all this time... Would definitely recommend giving it a second try.
I will give it a second try.
Great review and very informative. I always find the the metallic paints of most ranges to be the weakest but these look great. I haven't had much use of the Vallejo range in the past but that may have to change shortly. Thanks for sharing :)
+Talk Wargaming It's worth it. Vallejo is my range of choice by far, that being said, aside from the normal colors, these are simply the best Acrylic metallics I have ever used (and I tried a great many on the road to these :) )
I know this was 5 years ago, but I love these paints. I have mixed acrylic ink with dark aluminium to create a purple tone necron colour which has come out quite well from my experiments so far.
I still love them to this day.
Looking back it is kind of ironic that this was the first product review as I have heard every single person who has told me about this product does not recommend the product itself, it is always "You have to watch this Video by Vince." Not once, not sometimes, each and every time. Hardest working man in the hobby. Thank you Vince! Edit: Pretty sure Vallejo owes you money.
Well thank you, I still stand behind this review 100% to this day. :)
@@VinceVenturella My only regret was not getting them until now. They are so good it makes me think the other brands should have to write crap (or at the very least inferior) before the word metallic in the name/description.
Out of all the metallics I've used (before hearing about these), the Model Air metallics were my favorite. I usually got pretty good results with them. Used Model Air on my Imperial Knight and some other big kits and I think it turned out ok. But man, I'm really wanting to give these things a looksee. Vallejo says they've got some new way of using highly milled aluminium dust for these paints.
+Charles Laine Yes, same for me. I was always a model air/game air guy for my steels, but these are just insane in the way they are different. If you have worked with those paints for a while, you will feel the difference immediately. The way they play with the light is also very unique and greatly natural metal.
I'll have to give those a try! I have been using their regular metal paint line. Please consider a metal patina affect video. Metal does not last long in the field before it begins to "discolor."
+Jeffery Schutt They are great. I assume by patina and discolor you mean darkening, rusting, etc. for steel and oxidization for coppers?
+Vince Venturella ....Yes colors chosen for patinas are peculiar to the type of metal corroding and not always easy to get right...and vary depending on intensity of field weathering.
+Jeffery Schutt OK, we're on the same page, added to the list.
Vince...I just found your product reviews. Excellent job in presenting the best features of the Metal Color line of metallic colors. I am looking forward to watching the other product reviews. Thanks, John
Thank you, glad to help as always. :)
Hi vince, I love your videos and your reviews! They have had a massive influence on both my painting style and on the products I use! If you could recommend 3 or 4 shades of the Vallejo metal range to introduce into my paint set what would you choose? Also maybe an idea for a video could be what to include in your essential paint kit if you are upgrading from the set you started with? Some personal bias in this suggestion as I’m currently in the process of doing it! Lol Thanks for all the amazing content you keep producing!
MiniatureMarket and ScaleHobbyist have had these paints since they released. They charge about $7.50 for each bottle.
By the way, all Vallejo dropper bottles in the 35, 60, and 200mL size are identical to those. All the varnishes and primers have the same bottle. I love them, in fact I save the empty bottles for use later.
Yep, I hadn't used any of the larger bottles at this point but I have now, and I agree - they are fantastic.
These paints only cost about $0.05 per mL more than normal Vallejo paints. A normal Vallejo 17mL bottle is a it $2.50-3.00. The Metal color are about $7.50 for 32mL.
Don't tell them, but I would pay twice as much, the quality is just beyond any other acrylic paint.
That's awesome. I actually already on these paints and the primer and varnish. I actually have a time this weekend to paint. You have me really excited to try these. All of the issues you brought up, mainly the issues of metal paints not blending and layering well is my number one issue with most metals. You end with just the color of the paint, it's hard to tailor metal colors to your needs.
Once you use these, you will never look back. There is simply no comparison (in acrylics).
This was a bit of an eye opener for me. I've not been mini painting for long and my standard method for steel (leadbelcher, washed with nuln oil then a silver edge highlight) always felt sufficient. Time to step up and see the difference for myself
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the info. I'm a longtime Vallejo user and I'm glad to hear they've come out with this new line.
As for your video, It would be even better if you had a higher res than 320 though. It's hard to really see what it looks like.
+Charles Laine I will work on higher resolution for future vids like this. Thank you for watching and for the feedback, I very much appreciate it.
Your video Vince made me super excited working with those paints. Thx for work!
THey are amazing, I have converted many people to these (like in the hundreds easily) and I have never had one complaint or someone who has went back to the other paints.
So, if you leave aside the gloss primer and varnish, as well as the Gold and Copper paints, there's 14 paints in this range. Which of them would you guys say are the must haves? If you had to chose 4 to 6 of them, which ones would you recommend?
So m picks would be the following - Magnesium, Steel, Dark Aluminum, Duraluminim, Pale Burnt Metal, White Aluminum and Silver.
I know this post i very old, hopefully you have the time to reply... How do you do your golds and coppers? You just mix an ocre color to silver to make it look gold?
@@Unnickcomealtri go to his playlist and go to his product review. Pretty cool stuff
Hi Vince!
First of all, thank you for sharing your knowledge and philosophy, it has inspired and helped me A LOT to improve my painting skills! Thanks again for everything you are offering the community.
I’ve started several months ago a grey knight army and your review has helped me tremendously choosing my paints; decided to go with zenithal airbrushing Gunmetal/Dark Aluminium/Silver. That paint is a blast, visually stunning and I’m very happy with the results I get.
However I’d like to get your opinion: Those models will be used for tabletop gaming, and thus I was thinking about protecting them with varnish but I am not really sure what would be the best way. From what I’ve read, I will loose the shine anyway unless I use gloss varnish. Gloss varnish will give me a wet finish so I guess I am supposed to go with satin varnish. I assumed I’d airbrush some thinned vallejo satin varnish on it.
I seriously considered not varnishing them at all, but since its metallic paint AND airbrushed, not sure that’d be a great idea eventhough 99% of my army is plastic.
What would be your recommandations, if any, regarding varnishing with that vallejo metal color range?
PS: Thanks in advance for your time and inputs; also,please excuse my poor english.
My honest answer is don't sweat it and don't varnish it. As long as you are transporting them on magnets or carefully, you shouldn't really have any issues. The Vallejo Metal Color is aluminum pigment, so it's pretty durable, even through the airbrush.
Vince Venturella Thank you for your quick feedback :) That took a thorn out of my side, I’m relieved and will follow your advice. 👍
It looks like with this line you actually could apply the "NMM" (Non-Metallic Metals) shading and lighting techniques to this metal paint in wetblending and edge highlight to create some wonderful and strange effects you definitely do not get with anything by GW'S citadel metallic line.
I would almost be tempted to do a full dark to light gradient and apply GW's "gemstone" gel paint over such on eldar models and the like to give a very deep subtle transition as well.
Yep, if you look at my Hobby Cheating tutorials, you will see I do exactly that (Hobby Cheating 103 for example). They also work well with the gem paints as you described.
6:26 Interesting that you where liking the varnish at first. I remember that you saying in a more recent video that you didn't find a use for them until you got the pure metal pigments from GSW. Wandering what changed your mind.
Yep, at first I liked it, but then my tastes evolved on the metal paints. :)
Reaper metallic paints are surprisingly nice, that's due to the much fine pigments used, however, these Vallejo metal colors are amazing!
They really are, the Vallejo Metal Color is just beyond everything else (and you are right, there are others that are good - but these are GREAT).
I'm intrigued by the sponge wet paper setup. New to me.
Just my little homemade wet palette (you'll see it change over time). Ironically, I would NEVER use a wet palette with the metal paints now, you just don't want the extra water with metal paints. Dry palette only for your metal paints.
Thanks for the update! I have been chasing a really nice "Black metal" for a good while. I was going to try and get in the Scale 75 stuff but these really good! Nice find for sure, now only to find someone that stocks them here :)
+Crit Damage Miniature Games The dark metals are fantastic (the Magnesium, Steel and Gunmetal), they are all great with slightly differing tones. I have no idea how available these are in Austrailia, but you could always get them shipped from the UK or something worst case as they are widely available there.
i've been looking for a nice natural metal colour for my necrons for a while now. i used mollatow chrome for my shard of the void dragon and it looks like these would do nicely for the rest of them.
Yep, these will fit the bill and are the best metal color option around.
Hey Vince, do you think it's feasable to buy the darkest color (steel/gunmetal grey) and the brightest one (white aluminium/silver) and mix them together to get anything in between? I don't know if the difference is just the value of the grey pigment or the finish is also different.
Yep, 100% doable.
@@VinceVenturella Perfect, thank you!
Just came here to see what i was doing wrong with the metalcolour paints i just picked up, realised after some experimentation it was the "new" citadel contrast primers (wraithbone & Greyseer) repelling the paint causing it to bead up on the surface. got excellent results from models based with other sprays.
That is super interesting, I've never used them so I've never run into that. Fascinating.
Those look great. I use Model Air metallics now tho have never been completely satisfied but they were the best i could find. I was thinking about trying Alclad, Mig or AK but didn't really ant to go down that road and I don't trust myself doing NMM yet. Thank you these will be perfect for my Mechanicus army thats been sitting in boxes waiting to be started.
+Barret Musselman Most of the reviews I have read and watched from standard hobbyists say this is just a shade below Alcaid (which is usually rated the best out there) but infinitely easier to work with.
Hi Vince, I want really want to try these. Can you recommend 3 to 4 (including the darkest one) colours to start out (dark, mid, light)? Keep up the great work! Thanks!
You really should try them, as they are the best Acrylic metal paints on the market. So here is my recommendations. In this order. Steel, Silver, Copper, Gold, Pale Burnt Metal, Dark Aluminum, Exhaust Manifold. Hope that helps.
Just ordered 4 from this list from miniaturemarket for about $7.50 each. The copper and pale burnt metal were out of stock but available on Amazon, albeit a few dollars higher per bottle.
Thanks for the recommendations, Vince. Do you have any experience with the Gloss Black primer from the same range? I’ve ordered Steel, Dark Alu and Silver and was planning to paint them over standard GW Chaos Black spray can primer.
Grabbed a few last night and so far they're as amazing as your review. However all 3 of mine leaked paint out of the tip all over into the inside just by shaking them up, then gooped up even more when getting paint out.
Weird, I haven't had that happen.
@@VinceVenturella maybe it was just my day for it. Shortly after I made that comment I was squeezing Vallejo varnish when the top blew off, shotguns the bottle into my pallette which exploded it into my face and all over my painting area, materials, several finished minis, laptop, 2 phones, iPad, brand new game I just had arrive and the walls.
It sucked
You’ve convinced me to buy these paints 👍
You won' regret it, they are amazing.
I'm new to painting and thank you for introducing this line, I was hohum with the model air's steel because it doesn't feel like steel and its too bright.
These are really the best metallic paints by a crazy wide margin, and trust me that comes from experience. I have used 16 metal paints across 11 different brands, I have done the research and no acrylic is close. I would recommend a dark (Steel, Gun Metal (which is slightly blue) or Magnesium) a mid-tone (Dark Aluminum or Burnt Iron (slight brown)) and a bright for edges and highlights (Silver, Pale Burnt Metal (again, very slight brown tone). That's a good way to start since the line is somewhat expensive but they last forever.
That was very informative, thanks. One more question, how compatible are they with Model Air metallics? I wanna know so I can decide if I can use them together or I should consume the paint I own (namely gold and steel) on less important miniatures first.
Sure, they work together without issue, but honestly, don't wait. It's not worth the $4, they are just that much better.
fantastic review mate really did them justice. but it's the blending that I love the most you can really get some great result's. I also found that the primer is only needed in really large spaces, but for what we use it for i.e weapons/ armour and so on it wont be needed much, all tho if your a kit builder it's a must as you do get a much richer brighter colour using the primer . I only wish there were a few more copper's and gold's
+plastic sturgeon Thank you, I wanted to do them justice as I really love these paints. Yes, I might pick up the primer at some point, but as you said, since this is most often weapons or a chestplate at largest, it didn't seem necessary. Totally agree on the copper and golds (though for the limited range, they do have the same nice effect).
Thanks for an excellent review as always, very much appreciate your time
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
great review, but would have loved to see the copper and gold in action :)
As you said, there's very little content out there about those paints, let alone the gold/copper...
+Marc Olivier This is true, I will probably do a stand-alone vid for the Gold/Copper and discuss them since they are very different. I can also then address how they mix with with the Steel colors.
Glad to hear that, I'll be looking forward to it! I've used Liquid Gold for a few years, but recently I've been hoping to shift away from it. Next on my list to try out are the Scale 75 Gold & Alchemy paints, and later on the MC Gold.
+Marc Olivier I own the Scale 75 gold metallics and they are an upcoming review. Honestly, I would stay away. There is a neat pink and purplish metal in there, but those have very limited uses. The actual golds are VERY disappointing and separate and turn green (oxidize) almost immediately.
Another review I'll be looking forward to... too bad about the quality. Guess I'll just get a pot of Metal Color Gold and see how that goes.
Hey Vince, love these paints. I mixed the Gold & Duraluminium 50/50 and it very quickly separated and mean like oil and water. Within minutes the center 1/3 was black! Any ideas how to fix this and what is going on other than stirring before every brush load? And thanks for introducing me to these Metal Colors!
So two tips, 1st, don't put this on a wet palette, that can help. 2nd, use a dry palette with little cups. They will always separate some and some of the darker colors are a little more prone, but a few quick swishes will get you right back to good .
@@VinceVenturella Thanks for the reply. It's the gold separating. I put a drop of both the gold & duraluminium without mixing and the gold again separated and left a black center in about 5-6 mins while the dura only had a slight separation with no color issues after 10 mins (full separation at about 15 mins). No wet pallets, water or additives were harmed during the mixing of these paints! FYI when I painted the mixed color on a little heavy, there was a slight discoloration in the center where it had pooled and separated before drying.
Hey Vince, thanks again for making this video, something quite remarkable is that first I saw this and bought vmc then months later I came back again for your techniques.
I'm still very novice and all I previously did was zenithal preshade, glaze, and washes (no highlights even). Now, I'm thinking of bending vmc like you did with the barrel except on a more complex surface (40k tac squad alpha legion scheme). How should I approach this without the help of zenithal preshade (since I am probably priming gloss black)? I also assume that I should show more light than dark metal.
Speaking of alpha legion, I've seen a guy using "candy effects" so when altering the light source, the reflection masks some of the scales, any chance we cover something like that?
I just tried steel, dark alluminium, silver and copper. I applied them by brush on a primed surface (chaos black spray). I don't know if the batch I got was flawed but they are certainly the worst paints I have ever tested. They also smell a lot.
I am at a total loss. Never had an issue with them and they are made to go over black. Also, mine don't smell bad. So it may be you got a bad batch, I have no idea.
Vince Venturella I ve ordered again from Amazon the dark alluminium just to be sure. Maybe the batch I got was
old or flawed.
Yes, that's very strange. I have ordered a few from amazon (I got my original from the FLGS) and haven't had any issue, but the actual suppliers behind your order on Amazon can change frequently.
Also, while we are on it, other than the bad smell, what was the experience when you laid them on the model? Just to make sure I understand.
I used a brush to paint a cylindrical area starting the brush stroke from the higher point, and moving the stroke downwards. Perhaps this was my mistake, because since the paint was very watery and gravity did its thing, the end result was very wavy. There were waves perpendicular to the brush strokes in the whole cylinder. Then i tried using the copper paint in a flat surface, but the result was the same, it is as if looking a stormy sea from above (sorry for not being able to describe it better). I've ordered a couple of more paints from amazon, since the first batch was bought from a local seller. The (new) package will arrive in about 10 days. I've ordered the gold and again the dark alluminium (to replace the leadbelcher from GW). I could send you an email with pictures when I give them a try, if you don't mind. Perhaps I do something wrong.
is the white aluminium just as shiny as duraluminium or does it seem a bit flatter on the reflection? (i assume they mix in some white for the white aluminium, since the range is colored with pigments rather than dyed mica flake)
It's flatter, just brigher if that makes any sense (it doesn't have as much metal sheen).
I really dig and enjoy your uploads! Thanks for info and help to us novice painters. I could do without that mic distortion though. Probably going to drive you nuts but sounds like a bad connection or the gain is too hot or "input" as most non musicians put it. Beautiful work!
Glad to help, and yes, these early times don't have great audio, it gets better.
Thanks for the review - I use the normal vallejo air metals - so will be looking to replace them with these. however, the color I really need is a good acrylic chrome. Currently, I use allclad chrome, but it is very difficult to work with. Regardless, thanks for the vid.
There is a chrome in this line, though I cannot speak to it's quality. It's the one color I was warded away from. I will say the silver is more shiny and reflective than any other miniature paint's acrylic "chrome", but yes, the Allclad is about the best chrome around, but I agree, a big pain to work with.
Thank you for the reply. I ordered the chrome and the gloss black primer (metallic paints do better with a glossy primer) - I will report back the results.
I tried the Aluminum one and it separated on my wet palette within minutes. It did seem almost like a wash consistency when I put it on the palette. I did shake it with an agitator beforehand but think I mustn't have done it for long enough.
So two tips - 1) Never put metal paints, but especially these metal paints on a wet palette, they are far too hydrophillic, dry palette only. 2) it's always good to stir a little with your brush when it goes back to the well. Finally, always make sure you take your brush and touch it to a paper towel to wick out the extra liquid.
@@VinceVenturella Good man. Thank you.
@@VinceVenturella This last point here about the paper towel is probably the tip I've been looking, because I feel my VMC paints isnt as shiny as in you videos. Will try it out!
Started painting a stormcast force for my nephew and picked up the line, they're a paradigm changing product for me, never seen anything that comes close outside of enamel or lacquer and those are a pain to work with. just wish they could do the same with golds
Totally agree, these are just beyond any other acrylic metal on the market for steel. Totally agree on the gold, I like their golds, but the range is so limited it's a challenge.
Us miniature painters have been "spoiled" by lines with 10 different tones of gold with stupid names, too bad they all look like you sprinkled some yellow glitter on piece of plastic...
I think the main issue is the fact the line is trying to compete in the Scale Modeling environment, going after Alclad/Mig/AK etc where it's very rare to see more than one or two tones of Gold in a line :(
Basically what I want from them is to remake the whole Liquid Gold line with this formulation...
Yes and Yes, totally agreed.
Thank you Vince! I've been using these metal paints for some time now and absolutely love them! My question is about trying to "fill in gaps" in the range. The steel colors are obviously varied but I'm looking for more golds, coppers, bronzes, etc. I'm also looking for some colored metallics (greens, blues, reds, etc.). For the golds and coppers I know you've recommended Darkstar in the past. Would you still recommend them in this case? As for the colored metallics, is there a range you would recommend or would it be best to just mix inks with the VMC paints? Thank you!
Honestly, I just mix the paints (copper and gold) and mix in Daler Rowney FW inks and you can generally get a wide range of shades without issue.
Hi vince, i have 2 questions:
- what colors would you suggest to get in order to paint swords&armor (fantasy)
- do you know if the metal gloss varnish from this line can be used by brush (not airbrush)
Thanks in advance!!
1) Steel, Dark Aluminum, Silver.
2) I wouldn't use it. I don't use the varnish, I don't like varnishing this metal, it only dulls it. You don't really need to, it's tough.
Hey, I know this video is ancient but as a quick question: how different are White Aluminium and Silver in this range? I'm wondering if it's worth hunting down Silver for doing some T-1000-esque Necrons, but I already have White Aluminium.
Silver is much more reflective, white aluminum is just bright but not as shiny.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks!
Hi Vince, I was wondering have you tried the Golden Fluid Acrylic paint, Gold or Silver?
Not yet! I will have to give them a shot, but I didn't like what I saw on the outside of the bottle. They didn't seem to have the finely ground pigment.
These look great. I'm going to test these out as I hate the GW metallics. I play Khorne. What would you recommend for gold and brass?
The Vallejo Metal Color Gold and Copper, maybe with some brown ink should be able to get you where you want.
What do you recommend for the exterior of a a P-51D kit? I'm leaning towards the duraluminum.
Depends on if you are going for era appropriate or a more modern classic. Those that are still around in air shows and such today are all highly polished, probably silver or even chrome. If it's era appropriate, then we are probably talking dull aluminum, mixed with a little dark aluminum for shading and regular aluminum mix for subtle highlights I suspect.
Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thanks for the help. Going to go era appropriate, so the dull sounds good. Been painting armor, so the shiny will be a new challenge.
Happy to help as always.
Hi Vince, just tested my first metal color and it’s fantastic! Just wondering if you find the gold as good as the silvers? I’m wondering whether to get this gold or a couple from Darkstar
Yep, I love the golds. They are just as amazing, but you have to mix the copper and gold (2-3).
These were great recommendations and I've really been enjoying using them... for the most part.
I find that they separate really quickly on the palette and it makes keeping a consistent colour a bit of a chore. Is there any way to help with this?
Also, any way to stop the caps from filling with paint when shaking? This would arguably be more useful to know :)
So a couple of quick thoughts.
1) Always use a dry palette, and use one with recessed cups, that will prevent it from separating.
2) If you regularly clean the tip and snap it tight, you should see less leaking out.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks for your reply. I've been using a dry palette for them but not recessed, I'll have to give that a go.
And yea, tip cleaning... the bane of every Vallejo bottle, I swear I throw away more paint than I put on my palette sometimes :)
Going on the to purchase list...
You will not regret it. :)
What a great review, thank you. In your opinion is there a large difference between Aluminum, Duraluminum, and Silver? Also, is there an acrylic gold paint that you can recommend?
The Aluminum and Duraluminum are pretty close, both very similar colors. Silver is much more bright and silver. As for gold, Vallejo Metal color makes a gold and copper (you need both).
@@VinceVenturella Awesome, thank you. Out of curiosity, why do I need both?
@@kofmanmi The gold is very green and the copper is very red, they are meant to be mixed to get a rich neutral gold tone.
Hi Vince, not sure if I'm doing thread necromancy here, but I just came across this video and I'm intrigued by the products. I want to do chrome and possibly chrome candy effects, you mentioned the VMC chrome leaves a little to be desired, and I've heard of Alclad as being a leading chrome product. Do you have any thoughts on Alclad?
You aren't at all, these videos are here to be used in perpetuity. ;) - So yes, Alcaid II Chrome is the best true metal effect on the market, but it's an enamel based paint and difficult to work with, especially if you are used to acrylics. In the end, Alcaid II is better, but only slightly so and not enough to justify the difficulty of working with it IMHO. I have a video in my hobby cheating series where I put candy coat paints over Vallejo Metal Color (#31 or #32 if memory serves) so you could see how it works. My advice would be grab a 3 color (Dark, Medium, Light) of this and your favorite candy coats and you are good. The Silver from Vallejo Metal Color is INCREDIBLY bright and shiny, you won't have any issue if you want highly reflective metal.
Hope that helps.
Vince Venturella Wow quick response! Thanks very much! That helps a great deal. Thanks for your videos, they are to me, the clearest and most informative series on the web and are my go to for inspiration and education. Keep up the great work!
Can anyone recommend what the best ones within the range are plz?
My recommendations are Steel, Silver, Dark Aluminum, Pale Burnt Metal in that order (the gold and copper are also good if you are looking for those colors).
@@VinceVenturella Thx Vince much appreciated!
Sold out everywhere in Canada, except for on Amazon where it's almost 3-4x the price of elsewhere (surprised there's price-gouging in the paint market, lol). Strangely, there is no discount when buying a 4-pack; must be because they're so good!
Edit: I heard that you cannot highlight with these metallics, but can highlight with Scale75's. Can you highlight with Vallejo's model/air metallics as well? Thanks very much!
So the new ones are coming out soon, they had to reformulate because of covid, it's worth the wait. :) (That being said, if you need something in the mean time, the Air stuff is okay, it's a 'C' compared to the A+ of these.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks man, you come highly recommended on Reddit and miniature forums. I was just wondering though, can you highlight metal colors, this one, or do they not need highlights at all? Thanks a lot!
@@soldierforchrist631 Well thank you, always glad to help. The answer is yes, true metals need control of the light as with any other paint. here are some videos where I explore the concept.
Here is my highlighting and weathering - th-cam.com/video/hsgFPMsnAKE/w-d-xo.html
Here is a simple zenithal - th-cam.com/video/ByX2jIEmXJM/w-d-xo.html
hope that helps.
@@VinceVenturella Sweet. Thanks very much! Liked & subbed. Merry Christmas & Happy Holidays!
@@VinceVenturella new version of the Metal Color line up or just a restocked batch because of shutdowns? Thanks. Your channel is so heloful.
Hey Vince, Thanks for sharing this with us! I bought some of these paints two week ago after failing with warcolours metallics. The difference between these is absolutely insane.
As a Khorne dude I need to paint bronze and I just don't get a good mixture. Here is what I already tried:
Mixing Gold, copper and a bit dark aluminium --> looks more like a pale gold with a light coppery shine
Mixing gold, copper and brown colour --> looked a bit like bronze but because of the nm paint it turned out very dull
Mixing gold, copper and seraphim sepia --> I should knew better this is going to be too runny but it looked nice
Have you any advice on how to get a nice bronze out of these?
Bronze is the toughest color for them. My go to has been 2-3 drops of copper, then a drop or two of chestnut ink and a drop of purple or black ink. It get's thin, but it's more red and closer to bronze. There really is no perfect for it unfortunately.
Vince Venturella Thanks, going to try your mix. Any suggestions for a good tmm bronze out of the bottle? Maybe this is the point where I'm finally forced to experiment with nmm... (and maybe an inspiration for another hobby cheating video? :D
Vince Do you use gloss primer and metal varnish? I bought them and used also with liquid gold series but after couple of months im still not sure if they are really necessary. Primer applied by brush have a tendency to be gulpy and uneven and thinig it results in painting couple of thin layers, in my case varnish is changing how metalics look. Do you have any advise on that ?
Great recommendation, as always! What kind of varnish is the best for these metals?
Simple answer: none. You don't want a nonmetallic substance disrupting the natural sheen. In general, especially on plastic miniatures, they are generally tough enough you won't have an issue.
@@VinceVenturella As always, thank you Vince! Never really thought about just not putting any varnish on, as I do use the miniatures to play, but I will try that!
Just got the majority of this line. I need a whole load of bronze and silvers, wish me luck guys.
It's a wonderful line, I get so much use out of them for sure.
Which metal color is the brightest/shiniest? Looking to paint chrome for my juggernauts.
I like Vallejo Metal Color Silver. THe Chrome is the only paint in the range I don't like, it's supposed to be brighter, but I have not had good experiences with it. Silver is super bright and polished and should suffice.
I have found coverage difficult when brushing on Metal Color. It separates v quickly (esp my steel) and then runs into the crevices leaving the raised edges almost untouched. Do you get this effect? Do I need to shake them even more than I’m doing already?
So two keys, because it should cover like a dream in one coat every time basically. 1) Always make sure you are mixing it back up with your brush before you take it out (and never use a wet palette for it). 2) Always wick the brush off into a paper towel first. It's a very liquid paint and much like working with an ink, you want it to wick off the excess fluid.
Great review! And have you tried Warcolours metallic paints? It seems they have a pretty wide range of metallic colours.
I have, (I believe I have tried all steel acrylic metallics currently on the market - all vallejo, citadel, army painter, scale 75, warcolours, dark star, badger minitaire, reaper, P3 and probably a couple others I am forgetting). This blows them all away. The Warcolours range has a nice range of colors, but the pigment is just too big for me and it just doesn't read as metal to me. I love the rest of their paints (love them - they and scale 75 are 90% of my current paints I put on models), but the metals just don't work for me.
Oh, that's good to know. Thanks for the answer!
You've convinced me on these. I've got 6 of them ordered. I have a question, tho. I don't touch my old metallics with my windsor newton's or raphaels. True or not, I've always heard they're rough on natural brushes, and with the flake size, it makes sense. Do you use these metallics with your good, natural brushes?
I use synthetic brushes for metals only.
Can use other varnish .... or i need the metal color varnish
In general, you would want to stack preferred like this (it's not about YES or NO, it's a spectrum). Best - No Varnish, 2nd Best - Valleo Metal Color Varnish, 3rd best - Any gloss/high satin varnish.
Hope that helps.
I know this an old video so don't worry if question is outdated, im doing a grey knights commission and limited budget, if I wanted 1 or 2 out of the 14 any ideas which would be the easiest to build a darkish silver with, i can use VMA silver as an edge highlight
If we are talking grey knights, I would do a Gunmetal Grey (dark color) and Silver (as your highlight and edge). Mix for the mid-tone and you are good to go.
@@VinceVenturella absolutely fantastic thank you so much for replying, love your work!
Ty 4 review perfect for skitarii!
Happy to help. :)
Can you tell us the order from darkest to lightest?
Of all of them, I am not sure I could do that, but Steel, Magnesium and Gun Metal are the very darks. Silver, Chrome, White alumnum and Pale Burnt Metal are the very bright ones. Everything else is kind of in the middle.
@@VinceVenturella Wow thanks for the Quick answer. I have to say i really enjoy the work you are doing with all of your Hobby cheating videos. Your paint jobs are amazing.
Got a small bottle of game colour gunmetal grey a while back (maybe almost a year). Have good things to say about it, however i stopped painting due to college and a few weeks back when i picked it up again the paint seems to have split the pigments in some way (Feel like the metal pigment just sunk to the bottom of the bottle). Had to do some real shakin to get it looking normal again. Have something similar happen to you?
Also would you say the paint in the small game colour gunmetal grey bottle is the same as the paint in the big one in this video? thanks in advance!
SO let me answer those in reverse order, it's most definitely not the same thing. Trust me when I say it's the difference between a model T and Ferrari, they are both cars, but there is a drastic performance difference. The separation you are talking about is quite common in metal paints, especially those with larger metal pigment (as metal paints often use real aluminum). The Vallejo Metal Color I talk about here doesn't really suffer this as the pigment is so finely ground and the suspension mixture is quite different.
These really are a revelation, if you can find them, I would recommend picking up a few, you really only need Steel, Silver, Gold and Copper to have a nice mix.
@@VinceVenturella thank you very much for enlightening me. I have to say your channel is THE GO TO channel for this hobby really enjoy your work. Keep it up!
How well do these hold up on a wet palette overnight?
I never put my metallics on a wet palette. Any kind of additional water will generally weaken your metallics, in addition, it can pollute your wet palette with metallic flakes that are rather hard to remove. I always keep my metallics to dry palette only.
Just acquired the silver version. It feels like I'm cheating. After 2 coats it looks considerably better than my GW 5 page build up with shade and highlighting
It's amazing, my advice would be pick up Steel and Dark Aluminum. The silver is actually one of the worst coats to use as base (it's sooo bright). You can use those three colors (the steel covers in one coat) and then some quick easy highlights with the other two and the results are amazing.
Thanks! I'm painting Reiksguard at the moment. Around 60 of them so this is a huge time saver from the old GW 5 stage build up. I want a rather bright color so what I did now was to put on 2 layers. You think the results would be improved by using the steel first instead as a basecoat, then put on a layer of silver and highlight chrome perhaps?
I do, bright things are brighter when they are under some form of contrast. White alone isn't as bright as white next to black. The steel in the darker areas with the silver as highlights will really pop. If you found the steel too dark, the Dark Aluminum would be a good base.
I'll try that! Thanks for the advice! I feel just using this color is overwhelmingly good compared to the Citadel colors I was using working hard as hell to build up a metal look. My 2 simple layers of silver outclasses my entire 5 stage build up plus shading in the citadel range. Would you recommend shading btw? I was thinking of doing a 4/1 or 6/1 Nuln Oil(Gloss)/Drakenhof nightshade+Vallejo thinner on top of this. Think that will be better or worse? Trying to get a polished look basically. I feel just the silver fits the job but even better is always nice. :)
So yes, is should be shaded or at least lined, my personal feeling is that polished steel is never not reflective, so gloss can be your friend. The drakenhoff or nuln are both good ideas, as is the Badger Plasma Fluid Ghost Tint. I have a video on shading steel here - but I wouldn't recommend following my recipe, just the technique, I have changed my recipe since this video (this video is also before I discovered Metal Color, so ignore all the paints - they are trash by comparison) - th-cam.com/video/qJm85G85uPI/w-d-xo.html
Vince, I am looking to replace my Vallejo Bright Bronze. Do you have a recipe using these colors to get something close to it?
I would say 3:1:1 Copper/Gold/Silver or Pale Burnt Metal, just a guess, I have never tried to match that exact color, but that should be close.
Thanks...
I'm thinking of doing some Stormcast stuff and I want them in a steel color rather then gold. Do you think I could do a zenithal airbrush with these to get a quick base started? If so which ones would you recommend for this?
Yes and it would look amazing because I have done this exact thing with some other models, and these done in a gradient through an airbrush looks like magic (I would add a step of Vallejo Dark Grey Model Wash - the stuff you see me use - through the airbrush from -90 degrees, or straight below). I would use Steel or Magnesium-Dark Aluminum and Silver or White Aluminum.
I just ordered all of the things you mentioned.
I will probably have to save myself massive headaches and hold off doing my massive dwarf collection until I can afford some of these. Until then, I'll be grinding out your friends Malifaux crew.
+Jon Kreher They are worth it especially for jobs like that. The Guard Tower can special order these - that's where I got mine.
That's where I was planning on making my purchase. I caught the reference in the video.
Watched this video again, went and got the vallejo Metal Color gold, but I don't love the tone of the gold. how do I make it a richer more coppery gold? Shoudl I get the metal color copper and mix? will this mix with other acryllics?
Yep, you need the copper as well. My standard mix for old or rich gold is 2 gold to 1 copper, then I add 1 silver if I want it to really shine.
Vince Venturella how does that formula compare to liquid gold?
It's close and MUCH quicker to apply/work with but it doesn't quite have the same sheen. That being said, it's superficially close and the absolute best I can do with Acrylics.
Hi vince, which of the metal colors are the closet match to citadel leadbelcher and storm host silver? Thanks
Vallejo Metal Color Steel and Silver respectively.
@@VinceVenturella thanks vince! I'm going to try these out!
Can this be apllyed with airbrush?
Oh yes, and they are absolutely wonderful and smooth through the airbrush, like butter.
@@VinceVenturella Well Now I know what to ask to my gf for my birthday.
Interesting video with good information, thank you for making it, though you should invest in something like a pop-filter for your microphone, as you appear to be cracking quite a bit.
Your voice itself is fine, but the distortion is painful to listen to. :)
+MrAzhrarn Thanks for watching and commenting, I actually corrected this issue I believe in the most current vids. Thanks!
I Use Moltow for Chrome.
As do I now (on top of the vallejo metal color as a highlight) - th-cam.com/video/MgRYAGmga38/w-d-xo.html
how do they hold up against scale 75?
+nicimi I haven't used the Scale 75 Steel yet, I have used the gold, and if those are a sign, it's not even close. Scale 75's metallics (again, the gold range is my experience) is pretty standard metal paint. They push it a little more matte than most, but it's still a pretty standard paint. These are a wholly new product that I understand is using a new milling process for aluminum powder to produce this unique effect. I have used Citadel, Vallejo, Reaper and P3 steels and I can say this blows them all away without competition.
Awesome! 😎
Thanks! 😁
Why didn't I listen to you sooner???
I finally tried this stuff and holy smokes, all the other times I've used metallic paints are like that part of The Breakfast Club where the kid says he has sex, but just by himself. No comparison.
Yep, once you see the quality of Vallejo Metal Color, all other metal paints fall away. :)
What does Vince and a walrus have in common?
Whiskers? ;)
@@VinceVenturella they both like a tight seal! 11:20
Aluminium (UK sp) is not steel.
@Vince, I use "Magnesium" and "White Aluminium", but on the wet palette I have the feeling, that the pigments run towards the middle of the color. They have to be mixed a bit before I can pick up some paint with the brush literally every time. Did you have that effect too and how did you solve it, if so?
So here is my advice
1) Don't put your metal paints on your wet palette, like ever. It just causes them to be over watered and break down.
2) Use a dry palette with a cup style, this should keep your metal paint more deep than it's spread and it should keep everything more together.
Those two things should help, it's how I work with them.
@@VinceVenturella that worked - thanks!
I use the chainmail and gunmetal colors from Vallejo all the time.
+Caleb Goodson As did I, but these are light years beyond those for both brush and airbrush, it's like sorcery.
Vince Venturella They look great. I have to agree.
Hey Vince do you know of any websites that sell this?
+TheAngryRedBeard Good news, the War Store has these now - www.thewarstore.com/vallejo-metal-color.html
+Vince Venturella Awesome thanks a lot!
+TheAngryRedBeard MiniatureMarket and ScaleHobbyist. WarStore is usually more expensive.
They also might be closer, shipping wise.
MiniMarket has them for $7.19 per bottle. The War Store charges $9.99!
I can't help but find it funny how Americans don't pronounce the letter U (YOU) or they kind of do but they prounounce it like OO like in Loo, or DOOK rather than DUKE (dYOUke) lol
Damn you Vince! Now there is more stuff I want to buy. I guess I won't be eating this week either.
+Micky Jenver Who needs food when you amazing paints :)
@@VinceVenturella haha this coming from the Master Brush Licker is even more funny