Hobby Cheating 86 - How to Paint with Warcolours
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ย. 2024
- In this bonus Hobby Cheating tutorial, I take you through the different ways to utilize Warcolours paints. These paints are different than many people might be used to because of the medium. That difference opens up some unique painting options and challenges. Hope you enjoy!
Twitter: @warhammerweekly
Vince's RPG Podcast: itunes.apple.c...
Warcolours Links:
Full Set: www.warcolours....
Base Set: www.warcolours....
Layers Specialty Sets: www.warcolours....
Starter Set (10 Paints + 2 Brushes): www.warcolours....
Transparent Set: www.warcolours....
Metallic's Paint Set: www.warcolours....
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I very rarly comment on anythink in Interent but i thought that i need to do that now. I found your channel couple months ago and since then im hooked up. You're doing amazing work and i really admire your effort. Your karma have to be incredible after all this hours you gave from yourself. On the other hand it makes me genuinely sad that you're not getting more publicity. You inspired me to do so much more when it comes to painting, I'm even conidering taking part in your competition
P.S. Btw your nickname should be "Encyclopedia"
Well thank you, that means a great deal to me and it's comments like that - that I helped someone in their hobby, that keeps me producing content. As to publicity, the only reason I would care is to help more people, not that I am some humble paradigm, just that I know such things on the internet are somewhat illusory.
You should participate in the competition, still plenty of time and if there is anything I can do to help you with the next step on your hobby journey, don't be afraid to reach out.
Right on bro! Vince is the man!
What a great review - actually demonstrating the different ways you can use the paints. I've watched going on for 200 paint reviews on TH-cam and, I have to say, yours are easily the best I've seen. Thank you.
Thank you very much, greatly appreciated. I wanted to really get into how to use them, because they are so different but so rewarding once you see what all you can do. If you have questions, always happy to help.
Thank you so much for turning me on to these paints. I've used all the other brands, and they have their purposes, but after your review I ordered a set of these paints and I absolutely love these acrylics! They are so great for layering, wet blending and glazing. More people should know about these paints!
Awesome, glad you are enjoying them and I totally agree. They are so wonderfully multi-purpose they are just a go to for me. Thanks for watching and commenting :)
What fortuitous timing - I just sprung for the full layers set and the inks. I had been looking at them and Scale75 and your videos helped make the decision for me.
Thanks for these videos. I really enjoyed them. You've got me super hyped to dig in with my new paints when they arrive and really put some time in with them.
Awesome, glad to hear the timing is good and hope the techniques are helpful when they arrive. The Scale 75 is also great, I would say 90+% of my painting is Warcolours and Scale 75 (the Shades of Despair set in the Fantasy & Games line is my favorite from Scale 75 if you were looking to dip a toe in those waters).
Digging into new paints is truly one of my favorite things as well. If you run into any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
You have great skills. It's awesome for me to watch. I'm just getting started. I need to watch the first video, see how you decided to start that miniature and how you painted that part. I can't wait to see more of your videos. Very detailed. Well explained, well demonstrated, and very nice end result, even if you did rush it a bit for the video. Also just started reading the warhammer series as well. Horus heresy and the beast arises series.
Welcome aboard!
Vince just wanted to say thank you (well, for all of these) but specifically in this case for turning so many of us on to Warcolours. I just got the warm grey set to test them out and holy smokes, are these really nice to paint with! I've been using the transparent warm grey, which is actually a fairly dark sepia color to "brown-line", touch up dark wash mishaps, all kinds of stuff - on just about every mini I've painted since I discovered how amazing it was at that - give it a shot if you haven't already. Because it's transparent you avoid that flat "This is a line I painted on my mini" look.
Glad to help. I love these paints and I use them all the time as well so I wanted to make sure others knew of them. I agree totally on the transparents. Thanks for watching and commenting and if you run into other questions, don't hesitate to reach out.
Noticed you ended up on the front end of the WarColours page. Nice work sir :)
Thank you sir, I am glad they found the video helpful :)
I have the full set of Scale 75 and now I'm also adding the full Warcolours set. Great video.
Awesome, you will enjoy them.
Hey Vince, great videos. You convinced me to purchase some of these paints and I am having some issues working with them. I am fairly new to the hobby but have had decent results using Reaper paints. I know these are different and I need to use them to their strengths, but I am not sure where I am going wrong at the moment. I notice in the video you seem to only work in very small areas each time you load your brush. Is this due to the nature of the paint or something else? What I have noticed so far in using the layers line is that as I try to apply it, it spreads unevenly and leaves brush lines and places with little to no paint. (One-Coat Base line works fine) I am working on a cloak right now. I am hoping to learn to wet blend with these as you have pointed out they are good for that, but I have had zero luck getting the paint to cover properly. I have tried straight out of the pot and mixed with a little water. I've been working with the Violet 1-5 colors.
So yes, they do behave very differently and it's because of the gel medium. My advice would be to add some more water and get yourself to a glaze. Start with the one-coat, as it will layer fine, then use the other colors and attack in a couple ways (see what works).
1) Use some water, get the paint flowing, put a dab or two on the brush and onto the miniature, then void the brush (wipe it) and then spread the paint with the wet brush.
2) Move it into thin glazes with more water and push your color around, mush as you saw me do here, where I wasn't overpainting the color, but rather simply slightly changing it's value.
The key with these is that they are not going to work like reaper, or vallejo or anything with a normal medium. With the gel medium, if you just try to layer paint like a traditional paint, it will perform as you are seeing. You do generally either want to work in smaller areas, or with a heavier amount of paint dabbed onto the miniature and then somewhat spread out with a wet brush.
Hope that helps and feel free to ask more questions if you have them.
Excellent tutorial, I really like the matched colour sets of Warcolours, but have struggled to adapt to using them, this really helps.
Awesome, that is exactly what I made this video for. They are a very different paint, but they have a lot of awesome potential.
I told myself I wasn't going to buy any more paints to try for a while, but man, I really like the look of these. I wonder if the gel medium would be easier for me to work with, since I tend to over-thin my Vallejo paints.
It's a change, but I certainly love them. :)
Very nice demonstration, thank you. One thing I am noticing as I am using these paints to blend colors (pushing the paint around on the mini) is that the effect that is almost pastel-like with loss of vibrancy. Would you recommend a glaze with an ink near the end of the process to reintroduce that vibrancy back?
I tend to glaze with something like an ink most of the time to restore saturation regardless of paints, it's just a good habit. :)
Hi Vince. I don’t know if you will get this for an older video. I am looking at expanding my paint range. Historically I had on citadel but after 7 years out of the hobby most of this are pretty dried up. I have tried scale 75 and Vallejo and enjoy them both. But was looking at warcolours after watching your channel. I am torn between the two. Especially with the offer on warcolours at the moment where they are 20% off if you buy a voucher for 160 euro. This would give me 200 euro to spend on their site. If you could only use either scale 75 or warcolours which would you choose?
If I was forced to use only one, it would probably be Scale 75, but I do enjoy warcolours as well. They are a very different experience, but I love them, they suit my style well. My best advice would be grab a small set and give them a spin, if they suit you as well, go all in.
I just bought some Warcolours and am eager to try this! I've always been partial to blending and can't wait for my paint to arrive so I can give this a try. I've been painting for over 30 years and gaming longer than that and I am always happy to try something new. Did you know Warcolours features one of your videos on their website? That's how I found you.
They are great paints and on my desk at most times. If you run into challenges, happy to help. :)
Are you licking your brush? If so, do you recommend the rest of us just rinse and shake off our brushes for the blending?
Keep a moist paper towel next to your work area and wipe the brush along there. Easy opton if you don't lick your brush.
I'm really intrigued by these paints. I primarily paint with VMC (due to doing 1/35 scale models and playing Bolt Action) but I'm tempted to jump over to these. I'm in the process of painting 50+ USMC marines. I have done my zenthial work on them and I'm stopped for now. I'm tempted to get these and airbrush an appropriate green over the uniforms. How well do these airbrush? I ask because you stated that you'd normally airbrush this guy! Airbrushing 50+ grey green uniforms would be much easier than brush painting, haha.
They are great paints, but they are very different in brush work than Vallejo as you see here, the Gel medium makes using them through the brush a different experience in the way you place paint, but it's great for glazing, void blending, etc.
Now, to answer your question, I use these through the airbrush quite frequently, just use a fair amount of airbrush thinner (I use Vallejo) and you are off to the races.
Vince Venturella I actually like that push and pull quality. They remind me of oil paints with that quality. The one place I struggle with VMC is the fast drying time and the fact that I can't glaze it out without it going bad. I just wish they had drab colors! Haha.
I've used Warcolours for 3 months now and can say that i agree about the mattalics, they're not that great. I got the big set with all the layer paint and it works like a charm. It's incredible easy to highlight since they are coded from 5 to 1 in intensity.
My biggest gripe though is the brown. Oh boy, this colour just won't cover no matter what, it picks up paint faster than the rest and just isn't on par with the rest. I have tried way too many times to make the brown work, but have ended up using my vallejo browns.
Another thing about Warcolours is that you cannnot drybrush with it, since it always stays wet.
With that said, I'm glad to have the set! When I begin to feel annoyed with the way the paint is behaving I simply pull up a vallejo paint and notice straight away that Warcolours is the best.
Next step is to buy the base set, so I can paint base colours easier.
Sounds like we have almost identical experiences. Their metallics just don't work for me, but for the most part, with just a few color exceptions (I had a similar experience with the brown - I favor the Scale 75 for browns) I love the rest of their line (their turquoise, violet and emerald are all particular favorites).
I've ordered their inks and one coat paints to test them out. Pretty confusing that the website states inks are great for glazes too and yet you can buy glazes.
I have alse ordered their brushes, let's see if they are better than my Winsor and newton brushes.
I have no experience with their brushes, so I can't speak to that. The difference between the inks and glazes is the inks are in a traditional medium (and hence flow and act like inks, but could still be used to glaze) where as the glazes are using the gel medium, and so act as a natural glaze of the colors they support.
I'm curious about Warcolors "Acrylic Surfactant", "Thinner" and "Retarder" as well. Would enjoy another product review video for those.
I will add it to the list. :)
Trying to get into this hobby, would be nice to get good at painting but man, I suck. You make it look so dang easy! I ordered a few of these, will try to follow your tips. Thanks for the vids, very informative.
It's okay, we all suck when we start. I was TERRIBLE when I started (suck would be far too generous), but I've spend about 13k hours painting over the past 7 years, so you know, I've put in a little bit of time. ;)
It's okay to fail, it's okay to not be good, sucking at a thing is the first step to being good at a thing. Don't sweat it, keep painting, keep learning and enjoy the journey, it's a wonderful hobby and there is so much discovery along the way. :)
Vince Venturella thanks a lot for the encouragement, that means a lot coming from you. I will stick with it, practice and hopefully get better and grow over time.
Jake, I’m still terrible compared to the really good painters out there but unknown I’m better than when I started. Have fun and just keep painting. You will always be improving and as long as you’re enjoying it, you’re right where you should be.
Could you go in on how you would base coat with these paints?
I admit not making my life easy but I primed some space marines in grey seer, and tried to make a strong base coat with their yellow 4.
I tried thin with water, tried pure pot, tried ultra thin many coats I still seem to get a rich yellow on the sides/edges then a dull yellow/grey in the center of most panels.
I love these paints for detailwork/recess shading. Also being able to correct overspill/mistakes with a damp clean brush is a godsend.
Yeah, unless you are using the one-coat from this range, it's hard to get a solid base coat, especially with the more transparent colors. You can use an airbrush and that works, the other choice is to undershade with something like ivory.
Hi Vince, I've been painting about 9 months and your vids have been such a help in terms of technique and theory. Would it be fair to say that the techniques you show here are applicable to Scale 75 paints as well?
Absolutely, the fundamental techniques here of the gel paints would work for Scale 75 as well.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks
Hey Vince, I wonder how many purple and pink Chaos Warriors you've now got! It seems they get painted quite a bit in your Hobby Cheating vids!
Not enough, slowly I am going to get a whole unit done.
@@VinceVenturella that does raise an actual question - how easy do you find it to match colours when painting over an extended time frame? Possibly, if you mixed some paints to get the original colour, or maybe forgot what paint you used? Or even what technique you used?
Can you match results using two totally separate techniques? Say, if you wet blended one then tidied up with glazing, and on the second you did the whole thing with loaded brush?
Or can you look at an old paint job and know exactly what paint and technique will achieve the same look?
Close enough, you don't need to be exact. The reality is, people don't notice such minimal differences if you don't nail it exactly. I take recipe photos for the broad colors, but as long as a mix is close, it's fine.
@@VinceVenturella maybe this is something we worry too much about.
great video Vince .. been using warcolours for over a year now and there great
Thank you sir, I enjoy them, but I had a few requests because they are very different than normal paints.
Hi Vince, would you treat Scale Colour in a similar way? I've picked up some of the regular line and a few Fantasy and Games colours, looking to whip them out on my next project
Yes, much of what I say here would be very similar to the regular Scale 75 range. The Fantasy & Games will act much more like your standard Vallejo.
Hi Vince, on the starting blocks to purchase some Warcolours , and I was wondering what were you using in your video: base or layer paints?
The ones I was using in this video are the layers. The base would have some stronger coverage, but I don't tend to want that.
Brother Vince, Champion of Slaanesh, Slayer of the Grey, this humble beginner painter would love to ask wich approach would you take if you had to paint faces with warcolours, like using the gel stage or the flow aid stage to make them act "normal", same question regarding small details like gems. Thank you a lot for your work and making things like thick paint less scary for a noob like me.
Well, I wouldn’t use them alone. I would use them as my later steps after a base coat of something else. That being said, I generally thin them with faces down to something like a layer and then feather.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you for taking the time out of your day to answer my question Vince, you are truelly a gem
Thank you for the tutorial. I ordered a selection of Warcolour paints based on your insights. Went with the flesh and brown sets (to see if they blend nicer than my lovely Reaper flesh colors), plus a couple "one coat" and transparent paints. I can't believe they were so cheap to ship all the way from Crete. I've paid more from many US vendors.
Yeah, they are very nicely priced. I love them, but they are very different to work with. Always happy to help if you run into challenges.
Thank you so much. I'm hoping they are different. My Reaper paints have worked great for layering thin glazes, waiting a bit for each layer to quickly dry, but I often struggle with wet blending and feathering on the model. They dry so fast and occasionally streak a bit when using them for wet blending. These look like they might help me develop those techniques. If not, no harm done. I only ordered 16 paints to test them out.
I love Reaper paints, but they don't seem suited for every technique. Happy to give Warcolors a shot. Nothing ventured nothing gained.
You mentioned shooting this through an airbrush. Do you have a demo where you do that? I'm always interested to see how paints work through the old airbrush.
Hey Vincent thank you for all the content your a huge inspiration to me. Just wondering if there's any need to use glaze medium with warcolours to make a glaze or is water enough? Thanks again.
You can use glaze medium certainly, though water works as well.
Great share thanks, that was very interesting
Hope I gave you something tempting to think about sir ;)
Thanks for the video Vince. I also use them and mostly Scale75 paints. So far I found these two paint lines to handle pretty similarily and the painting techniques are pretty much the same for both these lines. Just curious if you also think that that's the case?
They are great value for money and I totally agree that they are best used either with wet brush blendings or glazing over zenithal priming.
Yes, those are my main two as well and I find they have very similar properties (I believe they both use the Gel Medium). They work wonderfully together and I find them to be excellent compliments to each other and my painting style (which is exactly as you describe).
Hi Vince, after all this time since this video, do you still use Warcolors paint anymore? Best regards,
Yep, not as much as I used to, but they are solid for glazing and final finishing.
Thanks Vince!
Really appreciate this Video.
Gotta try out these techniques with the War Colours.
*Salute* : )))
Glad to help sir and thanks for watching and commenting as always.
well im sold, this paint is like magic
It's very different, but if your style matches up, it's pretty great, I really do love it.
Agree wholeheartedly, It really is magic.
I'm a newbie and was really struggling with layering and such, I bought some watercolours turquoise and found blending like vince does here so much better and more relaxing. Blends are by no means 'buttery' but it is much less harsh that my attempts at layering.
yup without hesitation I will be buying these before I start my new army
I love them, they are a different experience than many other paints, but they have really worked wonders for me.
I just got a set of purple and violet from WC. You state they are gel based. But on the bottle it says Water Based. Is this a change?
They are still water and gel, paint consists of 3 items, pigment, binder and solvent. The binder is Acrylic medium, which can be either liquid or gel (Scale 75 also uses a gel for example). Water is the solvent, and as an acrylic water based paint, that is no different than any other acrylic paint. Hope that helps. :)
quick question, as ive seen comment from 2 days ago answered ;) this, or scale 75, as a separate set to not-so-small collection of vallejo, p3 and citadel? i want to try something that spreads, glazes, and blends differently to those brands, keeping it smooth, but covering nice. im about to buy few basic sets for blue, flames, and nmm and i just cant decide...
thanks in advance,
I always answer everything (or try to). :)
So the answer to your question is both are good, I use them in about equal measures. That being said, these paints do act as you say with the exception that Warcolours doesn't really cover strongly. It gives nice tones over zenithal and is wonderful for glazing and blending (it's incredible for wet blending). Scale Color has stronger coverage, but both are great.
In the end, Warcolours are excellent if you are working over zenithal and use a lot of wet blending and glazes.
you're awesome :) warcolour it is then, ordering today, scale 75 will follow later this year ;)
Wow just wow... you do a lot for the hobby community this is excellent and has given me a lot to think about. I noticed one recommendation for a premodern scale 75 paint set. I was wondering if you had a top three or four premade paint sets from warcolors and scale 75 that you would recommend starting with
Sure, I absolutely do! :)
For Warcolours - 1) Their Turquoise is just great, they have wonderful tones. 2) The fire set 3) The Purple set (which is actually pink you saw me using here) and the 4) Green specialty set.
For Scale 75 - 1) Shades of Doom or Despair (don't remember, but it's fantastic, maybe my favorite single paint set ever) 2) The unnatural flesh set 3) The Fantasy/Games line of NMM gold (I think it's the Copper & Steam set) and the 4) Flesh set, which is amazing.
All of those are in no particular order. Hope that helps.
Perfect, thank you!
Thanks for this :) I learned a great deal, just from watching this. I'm a noob painter, basicaly following the GW method, but I have pretty good results doing so. I'm thinkink on taking my paintink skills to the next level and I'm undecided on what paints to buy. I'm going to make a pretty big investment, I just don't know what brand to pick. I watched your 1h plus video, talking about several brands. Currently I have the liquid mettalics from vallejo, so I'm served on that.
What would you recommend the most? Scale 75 (Inktensity, Scale Color and Fantasy) or Watercolours (Inks, Layers, Base)?
Thx
My recommendation would be don't go all in on any one thing. Order a single set of Scale 75 and maybe one Fantasy & Games Scale 75 and a set of Warcolours and play with all of them. See what you like. I use both regularly and have both ranges, I couldn't pick between the two, and in the end, it has to suit your style - so I would say spend a little, experiement and worst case, you have a few extra paints. :)
Hey Vince ! After seeing your video, i decided to try out warcolours, and after a few hours painting with them, i have a few general thoughts, and i was wondering if you can give me your opinion on them ? I want to make sure i fully understand the way to use them
I feel like the gel medium makes these paints perfect to wetblend and glaze, like you mention in your video; however, they "force" you to work with the basecoat / paint under them because their coverage is terrible. In consequence, trying to paint yellow with them over, for example, a dark grey, is a true nightmare. So i cant help but feel they work very well with other brands ? if you need to paint a specific color and the undershading isnt right, its better to take a Vallejo paint to give the right hue and then work the highlights and shadow from here with the warcolours.
Am i right ? Or maybe am i still using this paints wrong ?
Thank you for your response if you find the time and sorry for the english mistakes;
Thank you for your videos, they truly are incredibly helpful
Have a nice day !
Nope, totally agree, they work best in tandem with other paints for base coats, but they are really wonderful for those highlights and smooth blends.
Does acrylic retarder work on this gel medium? Or do you not even need it because of the longer drying time
Yep, works just fine. :)
If I am only putting Warcolours through an airbrush with something like airbrush thinner or flow improver, is it relevant that it is gel-based?
Yep, I just use about 4 or 5 to 1 with standard airbrush thinner.
You mentioned using an airbrush and their website says they work in an airbrush. Have you tried that? Gel medium seems like it would need some work to flow through airbrush correctly
Yes, I have, they are pretty easy to use through the airbrush with a little thinner and a drop or two of water. Mix it all up and it goes right through.
Hi Vince! Thanks for this nice video. So you are using their layers to do your thin coats/glaze. But they are also selling transparent paints and glazes. Is there any difference between all these types? I don't know which one to order.
So the standard layer paints are sort of the all purpose items I used here. The transparent paints generally come in the full color sets and they are basically more gel, less color. So they are good for tinting and pushing around paint, but moving the color less or doing fine blending. The glazing colors are very limited, but are truly just for doing glazes. I really love them and will probably do a review/how to use them video in the future.
Hi Vince, due to your videos I am getting some scale75, monument acrylics and was wondering what type of war colors would you recommend to fill in? I thought of instant color by scale 75, but I am not sure…. Thank you steve
For warcolours, just a few color sets you like are where I would go, they are great for final glazing and smooth blends.
@@VinceVenturella have you used their equivalent of contrast colors? I am debating, when I was ill the gw pots dried out and they were shut solid….
Hello again coac-, I mean sir. Sorry for this WALL of text. You just had to go and become the best resource ever of this knowledge! :P
Good sir, I am happy to report that I am getting results from this. At least with red 3 and to a lesser extent blue 3. I have only the all threes set right now. My full layer set is in customs right now!
I am trying to build a deliberate practice plan focused on sketch and undershading, particularly with paints like warcolours and SC75. Any advice other than get to painting?
Also to that end - I need a space marine / 40k break and want some sigmar stuff as fantasy is my preferred aesthetic anyway... any you would recommend for the above mentioned practice? Kinda want slaves to darkness chaos warrior duders, but also wondering if I shouldn't go for something fleshy. To date I have yet to do anything with flesh but paint a face some skin tone and jab it with a lil bit of Reikland. The only thing that gives me pause there is knowing you've stated many times that airbrushing is the way to go for flesh and I'd rather not add that to this deliberate practice session on top of everything else.
Last question since I brought up the airbrush - my hp-CS is definitely all or nothing on the air, almost like a single action. The trigger throw is just that short. I press down maybe 2mm and stop, full air... I'd eat my shoe if you yourself could feather this trigger, brother. Is that weird?
Happy to help.
1) When practicing the sketch undershading, do some practice with a set speed time and some where you are going for effects.
2) Something like Blood Reavers (for flesh) and old chaos warriors (for armor) would be good practice.
3) It's a short trigger, it's there, you really just have to work it. The other option, if you are feeling really, really adventerous,is you can mod your airbrush trigger to be longer and give more control, there are some videos about this, but it's crazy town.
@@VinceVenturella thanks man, you are a real saint. Appreciate everything you do.
I even hate to bug you again without compensation for your services, but I have one more question I have to ask. Do you keep your fw inks in a nail polish rack or some kind of similar thing? If so can you direct to where I can buy it? THAAAANKS!
@@brkfstfd No issue, I use this rack right here - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G9181K4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Do the layer paints have to be thinned down? I feel like as soon as I add any water my opacity goes to hell. I know they are layer paints and wont have as good opacity as a base but I cant help but feel like Im doing it wrong.
The layer paints also say water based on the back. Does that mean they arent gel based?
I like actually putting a little glob on the miniature, and then spreading them around, I've found that is the best solution. If you thin them, they are very transparent and best for glazing and filtering.
@@VinceVenturella great! Thank you very much!
Thanks for the fantastic video. Are those the Layers or Bases paints you are using? I'm trying to understand if I need to buy the Bases set or if I can just go with the Layers set. Thanks!
I am working exclusively with the layer set here. The key to which you need really is about how you paint and the style you use. If you are working over zenithal and/or set your base color with airbrush, the layers are generally fine. I tend to work in lots of layers of very thin paint. The base set is recommended if you need to set stronger base colors or you are wanting to work with less layers.
That is extremely helpful, thank you very much!
How 'matte' would these dry? I imagine that the thicker gel medium = a glossier finish?
How do they respond to retarders? Liquid mediums?
I am pretty tempted to get a couple colour range sets to try them out. They are very competitively priced.
They are actually super matte in their finish. Just slightly less than Scale 75, but far more than Vallejo. Another reason I love them.
They can be a little tough with retarder, as just like with water, you have to mix a different ratio than normal paint (as you are doing gel+gel), that being said, it doesn't take much to really extend their working time, as it's already longer.
They work fine with other mediums and I actually quite recommend the line of mediums from Warcolours themselves, they are really quite great as well. Can't beat the price for sure.
Hi. I have tried using warcolour with a brush several times now. I don't know what I am doing wrong. When I apply it (diluted with just water) it just runs away from raised areas and pools in recesses, leaving an uneven stain behind with several streaks of paint everywhere. Looks really bad. Tried with diffetent paint consistencies. If thick enough to not behave like thos, it becomes a blob of unworkable paint.
If I apply 300 coats, eventually it covers everything. It is as if the paint was repulsed by the coat beneath it.
Yes, warcolors are tricky to work with because of the gel medium. I don't use them for base coating, I use them for highlights and shading as they are more transparent. The key though is to put a little glob on and then push it around and smooth it out on the mini.
@@VinceVenturella Thx. Will try that out.
Hey very curious about what caused that to happen, do you have more experience now and can give us a feedback?
On my side I have been using warcolours to create smooth blended layers on top of a basecoat of contrast paint over zenithal. It works wonderfully. My recipe for the red :
Base coat of mechanicus standard Grey zenithaled with Grey seer.
A coat of flesh tearers red without any pooling (very important)
Then warcolours red 3, then red 2, then red 1 as shown in this video. I love it. Creamiest red coats ever in a very short time frame.
my only complaint is that i can only like this video once.
Well thank you sir, that is very much appreciated.
Maybe you are just "that good" but haven't i seen you doing the same techniques with Vallejo paint and retarder?
Could you add vallejo to a gel medium to make it behave like warcolors?
I only started buying stuff recently and mostly because of what I see you use. I started out buying vallejo and started grabbing a few scale 75 colors, now I'm all "CRAP, i need warcolors now?" lol.
I get my spray booth tomorrow and Saturday I should be able to start painting. I even just bought a set of vallejo metal colors. The only thing I haven't done yet is spend $100 on windsor and newton series 7 brushes.
Yes, you can do these techniques with most paints, these just do those a little easier. The gel medium wouldn't make it behave quite the same, just because it would be difficult to get it mixed so thoroughly. Ifyou already have vallejo and scale, you are probably good for now, but they are a good expansion color for the future. If the booth is coming you are in a good place. you are probably good for a while to come. :)
Hi Vince, thanks for the video! How do you use the transparent paints in this set? Are they for tinting? I can’t figure them out! Thanks!
Yep, they are basically weak tints. They are for putting a thin dab on the miniature and then spreading and thinning out.
Hey Vince! So.. this is a really off topic question but as I watch your videos and notice your more improvised/on the fly approaches to blending and such, I wonder in my own painting how the techniques in your videos apply to larger unit/assembly line painting. I'm one of those hobby painters thats not intimidated by things like wet blending or playing the long game so to speak, but the one thing that causes me to seize up is the fear of inconsistancy accross a large number of models. Do you have any videos on things like palate or color management or touch ups to help ease the fear I may not achieve cohesion over something like 50 chaos warriors or blood reavers?
Well, I don't have anything on that specifically, though I have a few speed painting videos throughout that talk about the techniques for painting large units. My main advice would be don't sweat it.
I tend to adjust my techniques for what I am doing. So when I am going for 20 figures in an assembly line, I tend to just repeat the techniques you saw here, but in a quicker fashion. The minor differences that evolve are usually just that - minor, and they just get lost amongst the visual noise of 20 distinct people. As long as you are using the same color and placing the same highlight/shade mixes in roughly the same areas as appropriate for the pose of the model, things will more or less work themselves out.
Now, I will also say that I really don't care about large scale consistency, as I am constantly experimenting, even within an army because I don't like to be bound to something worse for the same of consistency and again, in the end, it tends to just get lost amongst the total army.
That eases the anxiety thanks! I kinda figured my concerns come from a lack of experience with army painting and that "screw it cuz the paint's worthless in the bottle" is the best anecdote for every stress in this hobby. Maybe a bit a varnish will tie it all together if it comes to it.
Hey Vince, i have a question . Do we just thin with water? Should we use flow improver and/or medium to thin ? Maybe use everything in a ratio? Thanks in Advance
So I will often use just water, but I have found that some flow improver does really help get it moving if you are looking for thin layers or glazes, I actually use their Flow Improver because I love it and it works so well, but you can use any flow improver including what you would find at an art store.
@@VinceVenturella thank you so much for the fast response
Just curious, what would be the advantage of using these vs. heavy body student acrylics? I know some people say "only use hobby paints" for painting minis, but their arguments seem rather arbitrary. I can understand only using model primers vs. priming w/ art acrylics since hobby primers tend to have polyurethane in them and therefore adhere better, but as far as the paint goes, I just don't see that much of a difference if you don't want anything that isn't already thinned.
So the short answer is use what you like that works for you, many of the best painters in the world out of Europe use Heavy Body acrylics. Now, to truly answer your question, these still behave more like traditional acrylic paint for models than Heavy body acrylics, which are VERY thick and really do require learning a fairly new method that is very different than what many have started with or might currently be doing. For me, these are a nice middle ground that let me utilize many of the benefits without being a whole different ball game.
That being said, I also like HBA and will use them sometimes for large flat blends, same with oils. Like I said, use what you like you find works is always the right answer.
Vince Venturella
Thanks. And also...........FIRST!!!
Hi vince, another vid and the obligatory question 😀
In your zenithal video you specify not to use black if painting pink, but in this vid it seems fine.
I will be using the watercolours pink set, so wondering if there would be difference since in this you seem to be using the purple set (the very pink purple set 😂)?
I'm complete newbie but these watercolours are amazing, I tried layering (with citadel and vallejo) and sucked so badly, I have since found that pushing paint around (using warcolours) and blending like you do here, seems easier for me to get good result and is more far more relaxing
That's awesome, I love warcolours for this exact use case. I tend to prefer the dark purple (like Violet 5) with Pink, but sure, black can work to, the purple will just create a slightly richer tone.
@@VinceVenturella thats great, I have the violet 5 and pink 5 already.
So I should prime, base whole thing in violet/pink5 and then do normal grey/white zenithal over that before moving on to laying down the pink?
@@xr8dmoose135 My method, would be standard black/grey prime, Purple all over, light grey 45 degrees, white 90, pink glaze all over (lightly, multiple glazes).
@@VinceVenturella thanks mate, I'll give that a whirl, really appreciate all the advice 😀
I read the title as painting with watercolours and was thinking wtf, why haven't I heard of that
Well, you can do that as well... but that is a story, for another time. ;)
what have you found the best way thin Warcolours for an Airbrush and what would 1 to 1 or higher?
I go 1.5 to 1 or 2 to 1 with Vallejo Airbrush thinner. They key is to mix them outside the airbrush and get the consistency right, then pour into the airbrush.
Thank you, very informative. I have a technical question: I recently got Warcolours paints and I am having a bit of an issue - basically, when I use them unthinned, I tend to wipe away the paint as I try to apply and feather it. Basically, I am pushing the paint off the area that I want it in. I tried to lay it on both thicker and thinner, but as I try to smooth it out, the paint seems to be pushed off without any adherence to the surface. Do you have any advice? Thanks in advance, please keep up the good work and stay safe.
So the key is they are always thinner and meant to cover less. So you want to be working them out and spreading them with the side of the brushover an area. They are great for blending, but it's hard to get a solid coverage without a few coats laid down.
Vince Venturella thanks, that worked!
What do you use to thin out your Warcolour paints? I have found that Golden Airbrush medium seems to work pretty good I use about a 1:1 ratio. It does not lead to separation link other airbrush thinners, or H2O
I haven't had a challenge with water, but that could be the water I am using. I also like Warcolours thinners/mediums as they work quite well with their products. I have also played with Vallejo Airbrush thinner (even when brush painting) and that seems to work quite well also.
Hi Vince, have you tried the Warcolours Gem paints?
I have, they are good, they are basically the equivalent of the GW gem technical paints.
Hey Vince.. have you worked with the Scalecolor colors from Scale 75?
I have, I own most of the Scale 75 range (both normal and Fantasy & Games). They are very similar to warcolours (both use the gel medium) so most of what I say here could be applied to Scale 75 as well.
Vince Venturella thank you. I own 70% of those paints. Thank you for the quick reply
How many of these paints can you run through the airbrush before cleaning. What’s your advice for airbrushing warcolour paints. Cheers
I do 2 colors then give it a fuller clean, but for me that is the following.
1) Cleaner, backflow, blow some through
2) Unscrew the back, pull the needle and run it back and forth while blowing the rest of the cleaner through
3) Water through with the needle back and forth
4) Rescrew chuck nut and back
5) One more cup of water through
Whole process takes 1-2 minutes, so it's quite quick and then onto the next color. Hope that helps.
Scale75 work similarly would you say? Is there a difference?
They are very similar on account of the gel medium in both. I think the true Scale 75 (as opposed to the Fantasy & Games) are thicker and have a little more of these properties I am describing like heavy body acrylics. THey are also just slightly more matte (though both are very matte). Overall though, very similar yes.
are you licking your brush when you are void blending or are you just taking off excess paint ?
Yes... ;) - What I mean is yes both, it depends on what I am trying to do, how wet the existing paint is and how much I need to void off. I do a little of both, some with a quick paper towel, some with just a touch of the tongue and then a wipe on the back of the hand, and some with eating the paint.
haha okay :) thanks for the answer! I just recieved the full batch of warcolor paint and I am excited to try them out to their fullest potential.
Btw how many pots of paint have you eaten in your life due to eating/licking the brush :P ?
Who know in total, but I am sure some of my insides are fun colors now, so I have that going for me.
I have just received my first Warcolours set - I ordered the One Coat range looking for a comparable paint to the old Citadel Foundations range. I really like them and am considering ordering the full set when they reopen. Do you by any chance know of an active coupon code for them?
Sadly I do not, that being said, I do love the range and think they are certainly worth it. :)
You were my deciding factor... 🤣 Thank you for replying... I really appreciate all you do for the hobby.
Vince do u use the flow sis straight or mix it in the ratio on the liquitex directions?
I dilute it as per the instructions, or at least something like that. They say something like 20 to 1, I probably go closer to 10 to 1.
Hi Vince, thanks a lot for these guides. I'm looking to start with the miniature painting hobby. Would you recomment Warcolours for beginners like me? I'm looking to buy my first paints and would plan to get the warcolours paint (layering) full set to get me started on my journey. The miniatures I'm looking to paint are mechs (www.kickstarter.com/projects/450703636/battletech-clan-invasion/description). Not sure if this makes a difference.
They are tough for a beginner, but they are definitely excellent, I would recommend the base paints but the key is use a lighter color primer or zenithal. They can help you learn things like wet blending, and glazing.
I bought some warcolours paint after your video.
Do i need to add an agitator in the paint pot?
The newer bottles (for a fair while) come with them in the pot, so you should be good. They do also have great agitators, so it's easy enough if you want to add another or don't have it for some reason.
Vince Venturella thank you!!!
If painting over zenithal and it's super streaky, does it need to be more thin?
So you have 2 options. 1) Yes, thin it out, try a little flow improver. The other option is to steer into the gel medium. With the gel medium, you can paint in a very different way - basically on the miniature. You put a little drop on the mini and then you smooth it out on the miniature - something like heavy body acrylics. You just keep working and flattening the paint on the miniature with a wet (not soaked, just moist) brush.
Vince Venturella thanks. I'll try it. My warcolours looks nothing like yours when do it.
I'm interested in the warcolours whole set as I don't have much paint and it looks like a really great set of colors for a great price. Do you think the whole range is good? Thanks!
Yes, I think they are a great set of paint to have and the price is pretty fantastic. Assuming you are comfortable with the learning curve (as they are slightly different than painting with GW or Vallejo) they are wonderful and I would say about 50% of the paints I use every day (the other 1/2 being Scale 75 which is also gel medium). I have a link up above to the full set.
I'm still learning to paint anyways, so the learning curve doesn't put me off. The price is really great compared to the reaper paint sets I am used to.
Yep, and they have good customer service as well, which is always nice. If you run into any challenges along your journey, don't hesitate to reach out, I am always happy to help.
Cool, thanks. I just discovered your channel looking for info on these paints. Do think the base set is a requiremnt as well?
Thanks fpr the tutorial. Could you do one about painting flesh with warcolours? Can't get it right
I will add it to the list. :)
Vince Venturella second this!
Hey Vince, I am having a hard time with some aspects of this paint. Especially with the browns. I thin it down, and it comes off the brush very 'streaky' This happens with all the colors I have tried, but the brown is especially bad. I have just taken a blog of unthinned paint and push it around and that seems to work better, but I would really like to get nice thin layers. Also, my minis are zenithal primed if that matters.
Any tips on thinning these properly?
Sure, so here are a few thoughts.
1) Make sure you are painting over zenithal or a neutral tone so you can use a thinner glaze.
2) Your method of putting it on the model and pushing around isn't bad at all, I do that all the time.
3) If you want a real nice thin glaze, some good water mixing on your wet pallette and getting it flowing is the key.
4) Flow-Aid (I like Liquitex) can be a great boon. A single brush full mixed in can smooth things out.
Hope that all helps.
Vince Venturella thanks for the tips. I'll pick up some flow aid.
1:02 in and I’m inspired to get off my butt and paint. Thanks again Vince
Awesome, glad to hear it sir. :)
@@VinceVenturella have you tried, and will you review, the WC transparent set? I just took delivery of it. The creator says it's extremely suited to glazing over zenithal.
So can you or how do you use war color in an airbrush?
Yes you can, I just put them in with equal parts vallejo thinner and a drop of water. They then go through without any issue.
I got the acrylic basic set from Amazon (14 clours) to try out these paints and I hope I got a bad batch because they do not lay down smooth at all. the opacity would be great for blending and layering but the paints I got apply super streaky and patchy, both straight out of the bottle and when thinned (I have used several types of thinner and nothing seemed to help much). Did I get bad paints or am I just not using them right?
I am not sure if the base set is is the Base Coverage or the Layer set. The base coverage set will cover better, but if it's the layer set, they will certainly have a weak coverage. My question would be what are you painting over? Pure black or zenithal (or a neutral tone). They will go easier over zenithal or a neutral tone like bone or grey.
I use water to thin, but as I do in this video, if you aren't greatly thinning it, it is more about pushing it around on the model itself.
it was the layer set. I have tried on neutral gray, white, and zenithal ( although my zenithal does not seem to have as deep shadows as yours does). My concern is not coverage, but inconsistent deposition and movement of paint. it does not matter if I apply paint first and manipulate the paint on the miniature (as suggested in the video) or if I try to apply the paint in the more traditional, way the paint never spreads out in a cohesive film. The paint just streaks, like an extreme version of brush strokes but happens regardless of the amount of thinning, brush stiffness or brush pressure applied. I even get streaking when I try to glaze with the paint over zenithal.
I'm a little disappointed: when I ordered their yellow, it is super runny, to the point where I can't even mix it with water.
That's strange, my yellow was the normal strong gel. You may want to reach out, they will probably replace it.
Paints for "aggressive painting"? These should work for me then 😁
Absolutely, if you aren't afraid to B- Aggressive, B-E Aggressive. :)
@@VinceVenturella "warcolours - made with the aggressive painter in mind" 😬☠️
Have you used their gem paints from their gem paint line? It say to use their white metallic paint. Is the best way to use it or should I do them another way? I got the line so that's why I'm asking.
I haven't used their gem paint line, but I have used others. In general, yes, you want to put them over a very bright metallic or silver (with something reflecting close to white) for the gem paint to give a good effect.
thanks, I asked him and what he told me the first part made sense but I was lost on the other part so I figured I'll have to play with it some. this is what they told me when I asked how it should be used,
"The white undercoat is just a suggestion for beginners gems.
For really impressive gems, paint the whole gem black. Then paint the bottom left quarter with white metallic paint. Get a nice blob of gem paint of the desired colour and place it (as a blob) over the gem. Let it dry for 20 minutes or so. Then place a white circle on the top right of the gem as an extreme shine!"
i'm just not sure what he means by blob I wouldn't think you just drop a lump of paint on it and let it dry.
You want to pull the paint up as a sort of thick coat to the top of the gem (i.e. there is more at the top than at the bottom) so that it enhances the depth at the dark part of the gem and lets the bright shine through more). If you watch the warhammer TV video with the Citadel Gem paints, this is what Duncan does so you can see it in action.
Vince Venturella thanks I'll have to give it a view and let you know how it goes. Thanks again for your time and advice!
How do they airbrush?
Really nicely. I use my normal Vallejo Airbrush thinner and it works great.
What is void blending?
Over applying paint on the miniature (think a larger drop of paint), then voiding your brush (usually by licking it or wiping it) and then smoothing the paint our on the model, then repeating the clean, then repeating the "removal" of paint. You are effectively voiding the paint off the brush and removing and smoothing paint as opposed to layering it up.
Hope that helps.
I thought so, Vince. Makes sense. Can’t wait to meet you in the UK with CK in May!
How are their metalics?
I don't like them, the pigment is too large and visible for my taste, but there is only one metallic paint for me - Vallejo Metal Color, nothing else compares :)
I actually like their coloured metallics, the metallic black especially gives some really nice effects, and the copper is nice as well, for grey metals though, always Vallejo.
I bought some of these, but I'm struggling to get them to go on in a smooth, even coat. I thinned the paint with water, as well as flow aid and still haven't figured it out yet. Do you have any insight into this problem?
DId you pick up the layer or the base set? If the layer, my first question would be what are you painting over? If you are painting over black, you can run into that issue as they are more thin. I would recommend a zenithal in that case (even if you don't have an airbrush, a quick shot from above with white spray paint can achieve the same thing and make the colors go on easier).
Other thoughts, a little water and flow aid, it may just take a could coats to get a solid base on. If you are using the layer set and not the base set (which has stronger coverage) you may want to think about picking up the base set as well.
Hope that helps, if you have any more thoughts in response, happy to provide more ideas.
I've got the base set and have been applying it over both white and black primer to try and get a feel for it. Is there any special amount or method of shaking the paint to initially mix it? Is it possible that I haven't adequately mixed the pigment and medium within the bottle?
Also, I really appreciate the replies! Thank you so much!
bright white is hard for anything to cover over. I would grab a grey primer or other neutral color (or prime in the major base color of your mini) and go from there, I think you would have far better luck overall.
I will try that! Really appreciate the help and look forward to more of your videos!
I bought a set of the one coat colors and I have to say that I hate them. They are shiny as shit!
That's strange, I haven't seen any similar effects. Hmmm, are they mixed up completely, it's the only thing i can think of.
@@VinceVenturella I Think so. I gave em a really good shake, for about two minutes. I also contacted warcolours and they told me that I had to learn to use their colors and watch your video. The layer colors are good. They are creamy and work quite well but the one coat colors are a nightmare. They are so shiny that I can't work under a lamp, just can't see the details anymore
Crazy, maybe it was that batch, but here is a simple solution. Get yourself some AK Interactive Ultra Matte varnish (which is something I highly recommend anyway, it's the best varnish around) and mix some in with the paint, it should killtheshine right out.
@@VinceVenturella That's exactly what I did last weekend. Worked out pretty well. The finish is almost as matte as Scale 75 colors. Looks good. Thank you for your help. But I thought I have to speak it out. Mainly because of their bad customer support
It's not pink, when a man wears it it's called salmon
Well, then I have several salmon shirts I really love. ;)
Approved.