The car really comes to together all one color. Great details on the final sand paper use, overlap painting, and use of epoxy before hi-build. My confidence is growing by each video. Thanks.👍
This is how I have done several cars and had great results, there are many opinions on body work and steps and of course more then one right answer as well. Like I normally don’t wet sand anything before final paint, just something about water and bare metal don’t mix in my head, but in all seriousness I have a layer of epoxy completely covering it all and sealing the metal up so it should be fine not to mention it’s a common practice but I just don’t like it for some reason. Good luck on your build and nice swap meet finds as well.
Great video, the time involved to get to this point has been enormous, sure have the lines and fit looking great, great job. Gonna be a great looking car
Great work as always, my question is when do you finish the door jams, trunk jams etc? Maybe that’s the next video? I appreciate all you are doing and am sharing!
Yep, I always pull front hood & fenders plus the trunk lid back off after epoxy and cut everything in with color base & clear, then re install. Makes for a much shaper finished car.
Spot on! Yup that is the basic plan. Assemble car set gaps and lines and finish body work, disassemble car edge in and reassemble for final paint. Especially metallics!
Once I am happy with the body outside i will be dismantling the car to finish works the jabs and sorting them body color, of course with a few tricks to hide the tape lines of course
Wow! She really came together. It is exciting to get the car in one color even if it is primer gray. Looks great Jon. Thanks for sharing and for what you do. It is much appreciated.
Another grate video your the best your way ahead of me so I will know how it is done right we are very blessed to have you showing all of your skills John can't wait for the next video!
The key to making it happen for me is I try set aside at least 3 hours a week to playing in cars time. It keeps me motivated and I see continuous improvements and progress.
Looking good, Jon. Just a little advice, increase the fluid output and increase the fan. It looked like it was coming out dry, and then when you sighted down the car, you could see the tiger striping, indicating it was going on a bit dry.
That looks killer. Great job. What happens when the paint floats out the garage door and lands on the cars in the driveway. Does it stick to them and cause issues? I would be too afraid to try that because I would be worried about paining everything within 50 feet of where I was working.
Oh yeah it gets all overthem. Best practice is keep anything you don’t want over spray on move it way out of sight. I put the miss’s car in the backyard when I paint. Now my orange car looks decent on camera but it’s nothing special and I am looking for reasons to do it all over again
the spoiler was the owners request. never installed from the factory but it was a dealer option, the only first gen bird that had spoiler from the factory was the TransAm
@@VinylVillageGarage It blows my mind people put those hideous spoilers on first gen Firebirds. It's like painting a d!ldo on the forehead of the Mona Lisa. That being said, that's just my opinion. And, for what it's worth, you could get a toaster installed at a dealer if you were willing to pay for it. That does not diminish the fact that you did a wonderful job restoring the car.
John, I love your videos, they are very fun to watch and learn about body repair. I have a 1968 nova I got back from body shop and they redone the whole back half of car. Now my bumper won't fit. Any ideas why?
Thanks for watching first off! Why it won’t fit many possibilities, is it the original or reproduction bumper, when you say back 1/2 I assume trunk floor, frame rails and 1/4 panels where replaced. There is so much room for error and just the quality of parts can be the issue as well. Those are the possible issues now the fix…. As with any build or rebuild modification is necessary. Is the bumper to narrow to fit around the 1/4 panels or is it the bolt holes don’t line up is the issue?
@@VinylVillageGarage thank you for the reply John, when I asked the body shop if they wanted to take the back bumper they replied no. But bumper is an original GM bumper and gaps were perfect when they picked the car up. They did replace everything behind back seat
For ventilation did you just have the open door and no fans or anything else going? Looks like it didn't make a big cloud which is great, but I know moving air can help with redirecting overspray too. Did you paint the side close to the wall too?
Hey Jon, great video as always. I was wondering if you wet down the concrete floor before you sprayed the primer to keep the dust down? Or is that something that's not that important with just primer?
I don’t for serval reasons, even for the final paint job. First one is some paints don’t react well from the humidity created from the water, fish eyes, curing issues and so on. I don’t know Which paints do. That’s probably the biggest reason I don’t. In addition the water goes everywhere and my floor sucks it would most likely puddle up where I don’t want it. Since I don’t wet the floor down the question might be what do I do to reduce dirt coming up from the floor. For primers I just sweep the shop floor and the mask the car off to the floor and call that hood and seems to work good. Plus it protects all the pretty stuff I have done on the bottom side. Then when painting the shinny final paint. I go a few steps further, clean the car thoroughly, sweep and blow off floor with compressed air, put car into position for paint then lift it up on jackstands and then proceed to mask it off the underbody to the floor again. Basically the floor is clean and then the car is elevated to position if away from the dirt. Not to mention it’s a whole lot easier to paint when it’s up higher too.
does anyone use acid etch anymore? when I went to body school in 1999 we always used etch on bare..don't remember if we were using epoxy primer too or something diff. just curious
I get a kick out of most of these so called restoration channels that think you can block sand with a D/A power sander to get a perfect car. Then can't understand WHY there black or dark color is SO WAVY ?? after painting ( the fools) As you know, many weeks of straight & square hand block sanding is the key, there are some very important tricks to correct finish block sanding. Plus knowing how to hand sand to a perfectly taped line ( center line from the front fender to the rear 1/4 on a 68 F body) If you fail to adjust and sand to that center line the car can never look correct. That center line can be a real problem if you have replaced the 1/4s or door skins. With a at home paint job, I would let the epoxy fully dry a few days then take the hood & front fenders off plus the trunk lid, then sand all the corners with 320 or 400 plus a red scotch bright pad in tight areas and cut all the corners in with base coat & one light coat of clear. Then after it's all completely dried a few days, I would tape the just painted corners and carefully bolt everything back on the car keeping track of all shim locations and adjust as needed. After installing everything that now is cut in, back on, lightly sand all the new paint to remove any tape lines & cut the clear coat to a dull finish and blend in all the epoxy with 320 so your overall paint job can get a good bit, then tape off everything, blow everything off, remove tires, tape off black wheel tubbs, wet the floor, wipe down the entire car with wax & grease remover and blow it off really good one last time, rub a tack rag over everything and hit it with your base color & clear. Yes I know, it's a lot more work this way, but if your shop is not big enough to open all doors of the car, it comes out so much better because you get better coverage over the areas you can't reach on the car. P/S, ALWAYS lay a heavy tow chain from the frame of the car to the ground to help stop static electricity from building up picking up dust & dirt into your paint, also if possible, get your air compressor outside or as far away from the car as you can ( buy a extra 75 foot hose.) as the rotating magnets inside the motor can build up static electricity.
I knew about the chain trick to the ground but never thought of the compressor creating issues. The things they don’t teach in trade school. I really like the inside information on how it is.
![[#2024MAMA] ROSÉ (로제), Bruno Mars - APT. | Mnet 241122 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dgGqD28J6aQ/mqdefault.jpg)
One step closer Jon, much gooder! Thanks for taking us along with you and sharing your journey. Keep up the great work.
Much gooder indeed, spent the day cleaning the shop up and sprayed second pass of high build primer I think I got it this time.
Damn she is looking gooooooooooooooood!!!!!
Thanks buddy.
The car really comes to together all one color. Great details on the final sand paper use, overlap painting, and use of epoxy before hi-build. My confidence is growing by each video. Thanks.👍
This is how I have done several cars and had great results, there are many opinions on body work and steps and of course more then one right answer as well. Like I normally don’t wet sand anything before final paint, just something about water and bare metal don’t mix in my head, but in all seriousness I have a layer of epoxy completely covering it all and sealing the metal up so it should be fine not to mention it’s a common practice but I just don’t like it for some reason. Good luck on your build and nice swap meet finds as well.
Did you turn of your boiler when you start it spraying? I’m getting ready to spray in turning it off . Just want and input on that
@@ulisesarteaga1756 I have an electric water heater. I would think Any open flame or extreme Heat source will need to be turned off prior to painting.
looks real good jon keep up the great work. firebirds lovers unite lol
Indeed Firebird brotherhood for life 😎
Looks great and getting closer!!!
Yes sir. I soooooo want to see this car back into the autumn bronze
Looks pretty good John! 👍🏽
I think so too, really coming together nicely. Thanks for watching
Man this is getting better and better! Looks great.
Wish it was ready to take to FirebirdFest can’t imagine why anyone that has a Firebird ready and would not go. It’s a great time.
Looking awesome. Really appreciate this series....
Well thank you!
Great video, the time involved to get to this point has been enormous, sure have the lines and fit looking great, great job. Gonna be a great looking car
Thank you. I do have some time invested but quite a bit of work done too and really feel it was worth the effort and it’s starting to show now.
Looking great!!!
Thanks buddy.
It's already beautiful and it isn't even finished yet! Good work, love these videos! Cheers :)
Thanks. The time spent lining panels up is starting to show and worth the effort t
Great work as always, my question is when do you finish the door jams, trunk jams etc? Maybe that’s the next video? I appreciate all you are doing and am sharing!
Yep, I always pull front hood & fenders plus the trunk lid back off after epoxy and cut everything in with color base & clear, then re install. Makes for a much shaper finished car.
Spot on! Yup that is the basic plan. Assemble car set gaps and lines and finish body work, disassemble car edge in and reassemble for final paint. Especially metallics!
Once I am happy with the body outside i will be dismantling the car to finish works the jabs and sorting them body color, of course with a few tricks to hide the tape lines of course
Awsome job looks great!👍
Thank you.
👍 rock on👍
Heck yeah. Making progress
Wow! She really came together. It is exciting to get the car in one color even if it is primer gray. Looks great Jon. Thanks for sharing and for what you do. It is much appreciated.
Thanks! I needed to get it back into one color, prepping an entire car is a big project and trying to break it up some.
Oh man that looks sweet brother
Thanks buddy. It looks like your bird now.
Looking good!
Thank you!
Looking great jon 😎
Yes it is! thank you.
@VVG Firebird Restoration Station you bet buddy
Another grate video your the best your way ahead of me so I will know how it is done right we are very blessed to have you showing all of your skills John can't wait for the next video!
The key to making it happen for me is I try set aside at least 3 hours a week to playing in cars time. It keeps me motivated and I see continuous improvements and progress.
Nice.. you've come a long way,,
Thanks, really coming together nicely now.
Your my inspiration 🎉😂
Glad to help!
Looking good, Jon. Just a little advice, increase the fluid output and increase the fan. It looked like it was coming out dry, and then when you sighted down the car, you could see the tiger striping, indicating it was going on a bit dry.
Yes very true! and clean your paint gun before trying to piant. It’s my primer gun and I don’t take the best care in cleaning it when done.
That looks killer. Great job. What happens when the paint floats out the garage door and lands on the cars in the driveway. Does it stick to them and cause issues? I would be too afraid to try that because I would be worried about paining everything within 50 feet of where I was working.
Oh yeah it gets all overthem. Best practice is keep anything you don’t want over spray on move it way out of sight. I put the miss’s car in the backyard when I paint. Now my orange car looks decent on camera but it’s nothing special and I am looking for reasons to do it all over again
Looks great! You forgot to fill in the deck lid holes where some clown bolted on a Camaro spoiler. I guess you filled them before final paint.
the spoiler was the owners request. never installed from the factory but it was a dealer option, the only first gen bird that had spoiler from the factory was the TransAm
@@VinylVillageGarage It blows my mind people put those hideous spoilers on first gen Firebirds. It's like painting a d!ldo on the forehead of the Mona Lisa. That being said, that's just my opinion. And, for what it's worth, you could get a toaster installed at a dealer if you were willing to pay for it. That does not diminish the fact that you did a wonderful job restoring the car.
👍😎
Thanks buddy.
John, I love your videos, they are very fun to watch and learn about body repair. I have a 1968 nova I got back from body shop and they redone the whole back half of car. Now my bumper won't fit. Any ideas why?
Thanks for watching first off! Why it won’t fit many possibilities, is it the original or reproduction bumper, when you say back 1/2 I assume trunk floor, frame rails and 1/4 panels where replaced. There is so much room for error and just the quality of parts can be the issue as well. Those are the possible issues now the fix…. As with any build or rebuild modification is necessary. Is the bumper to narrow to fit around the 1/4 panels or is it the bolt holes don’t line up is the issue?
@@VinylVillageGarage thank you for the reply John, when I asked the body shop if they wanted to take the back bumper they replied no. But bumper is an original GM bumper and gaps were perfect when they picked the car up. They did replace everything behind back seat
Wet the garage floor!
Thanks
For ventilation did you just have the open door and no fans or anything else going? Looks like it didn't make a big cloud which is great, but I know moving air can help with redirecting overspray too. Did you paint the side close to the wall too?
Primer sprays at such a low pressure it really doesn’t make much over spray at all now clear coat that’s another story it will make quite the cloud
Hey Jon, great video as always. I was wondering if you wet down the concrete floor before you sprayed the primer to keep the dust down? Or is that something that's not that important with just primer?
I don’t for serval reasons, even for the final paint job. First one is some paints don’t react well from the humidity created from the water, fish eyes, curing issues and so on. I don’t know
Which paints do. That’s probably the biggest reason I don’t. In addition the water goes everywhere and my floor sucks it would most likely puddle up where I don’t want it.
Since I don’t wet the floor down the question might be what do I do to reduce dirt coming up from the floor. For primers I just sweep the shop floor and the mask the car off to the floor and call that hood and seems to work good. Plus it protects all the pretty stuff I have done on the bottom side. Then when painting the shinny final paint. I go a few steps further, clean the car thoroughly, sweep and blow off floor with compressed air, put car into position for paint then lift it up on jackstands and then proceed to mask it off the underbody to the floor again. Basically the floor is clean and then the car is elevated to position if away from the dirt. Not to mention it’s a whole lot easier to paint when it’s up higher too.
does anyone use acid etch anymore? when I went to body school in 1999 we always used etch on bare..don't remember if we were using epoxy primer too or something diff. just curious
Acid etch is still available for purchase, even the high build primer I use is DTM and claims to be self-etching
@VVG Firebird Restoration Station cool thanks for your precious time..keep the vids coming👍
I get a kick out of most of these so called restoration channels that think you can block sand with a D/A power sander to get a perfect car. Then can't understand WHY there black or dark color is SO WAVY ?? after painting ( the fools) As you know, many weeks of straight & square hand block sanding is the key, there are some very important tricks to correct finish block sanding. Plus knowing how to hand sand to a perfectly taped line ( center line from the front fender to the rear 1/4 on a 68 F body) If you fail to adjust and sand to that center line the car can never look correct. That center line can be a real problem if you have replaced the 1/4s or door skins.
With a at home paint job, I would let the epoxy fully dry a few days then take the hood & front fenders off plus the trunk lid, then sand all the corners with 320 or 400 plus a red scotch bright pad in tight areas and cut all the corners in with base coat & one light coat of clear. Then after it's all completely dried a few days, I would tape the just painted corners and carefully bolt everything back on the car keeping track of all shim locations and adjust as needed. After installing everything that now is cut in, back on, lightly sand all the new paint to remove any tape lines & cut the clear coat to a dull finish and blend in all the epoxy with 320 so your overall paint job can get a good bit, then tape off everything, blow everything off, remove tires, tape off black wheel tubbs, wet the floor, wipe down the entire car with wax & grease remover and blow it off really good one last time, rub a tack rag over everything and hit it with your base color & clear. Yes I know, it's a lot more work this way, but if your shop is not big enough to open all doors of the car, it comes out so much better because you get better coverage over the areas you can't reach on the car. P/S, ALWAYS lay a heavy tow chain from the frame of the car to the ground to help stop static electricity from building up picking up dust & dirt into your paint, also if possible, get your air compressor outside or as far away from the car as you can ( buy a extra 75 foot hose.) as the rotating magnets inside the motor can build up static electricity.
I knew about the chain trick to the ground but never thought of the compressor creating issues. The things they don’t teach in trade school. I really like the inside information on how it is.
Great information Mike , 😊JR