Check out the NEW Paint Booth here: th-cam.com/video/CU2GgEeHFvI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=prUgUxInLVTzyJP9 **If you are painting your own vehicle like I did, Please use explosion proof fans, filters, and proper PPE (mask, eyes, and body). Also, pilot light off on gas water heaters in the garage. ***
Tip.... once you turn the exhaust fan on.... let it run 10-15 minutes to get a draft started to pull down dirt/dust from inside the garage/paint booth.....then blow down/final wash and tac the vehicle....if you increase the fan speed/draft/suction during the painting process.... you increase the risk of pulling up/stirring up more dirt/dust from inside the garage/paint booth. A mixture of rubbing alcohol and water works as a final wash. For the final tacking.... a clean hand works better than a tac rag.... you'll be able to feel for dust. Turned out good for DIY garage paint job.
Also little tip, if creating your own "final wash" use isopropyl alcohol instead of rubbing alcohol. Rubbing alcohol has oils in it and other additives.
If you gots peeling clear coat most likely that panel needs to be stripped. Take a high power magnifying glass and look at the base coat and most often you will see cracking. If you paint over that cracking it will transfer through your new paint sometimes in less than a week.
About to do the same thing, exactly! My 35 year old Olds Trofeo, parked for 10 years due to electronic gremlins, is now repaired and alive again. Of course, it's the vintage car where the white paint flakes off just for fun,, so I'm stripping it all back to bare metal. I'll also be using a new gun, a HF Black Widow, which will be a new experience, so I hope to have the same successful results you have.
This gives me a lot more confidence painting in the garage, will definitely copy your booth setup! Watched the other vids and it turned out great! I’ve got a ‘91 bmw project that will at some point need to be repainted. Funny this popped up, I’m also in the west valley and I’ve got a ‘97 FJ80 my dad and I have built up over the years.
That's awesome! Check out the new booth I put in on a video I did recently. The one I used in the video worked great for a single use. If you have any questions when doing the paint or need me to pop over to give some pointers, shoot me an email with your info. As long as you're not too far, I can check it out for you brothersadventuresllc@gmail.com
@@AZOverland2017 I saw that setup video, looks perfect for garage DIY! And I really appreciate that, when the time comes I'll let you know if I have any questions! I'm around the NW corner of the 101. My GF's tacoma needs a hood respray, so that'd be a good way to get comfortable spraying without worrying about doing an entire car. A lot easier to respray a hood if anything goes wrong. Who would you go to for OEM Toyota paint colors?
Great job on the video! Thanks for making it. I use my garage as a paint booth far more frequently than I'd like. The good news is that here in Vegas, paint dries in about half the time as usual, so my garage isn't out of commission for too long.
That is a cool little trailer. I love 2nd gen 4Runners. I paint for a living. I suggest wearing gloves when you’re doing the wax and grease remover. I’ve had the rag slip and my fingers hit the car and had to clean the panel again.
@@AZOverland2017 Right in the beginning. You have 600 written on the box. I have the same sandpaper. I can’t see the number on the box so mine is the same way with the sharpy. It actually looked like you had my boxes in your garage.
Low velocity low pressure does have a smaller fan, it is designed that way due to the lower volume of paint and air going out whereas your conventional high velocity high volume high pressure guns have a higher variable, HVHP is good for large coverage as you said a whole car, for 4 door and hatchback it will do a good job but as you said, more coverage can be done with the HVHP. I am going with LVLP for the versatility of it having a smaller fan you can go into wierd places the high volume ones cause overspray. Fun tools to use, I actually learned with gluing pannels on cabinets. The guy who taught me how to use the tool used to paint and taught me the motions and I just practiced while doing that job. Beautiful finish on your truck! I like the shade of white you chose.
Thanks! It is the OEM white paint code. I agree on the LVLP, but I still feel I have a problem with my gun. I paint cabinets and furniture as well and have been playing with it recently on those jobs. It seems to start off with an acceptable fan width then after A few passes it narrows. I thought it was due to pressure loss at the gun but even playing with that I still ended up with a narrow fan. So, as you said, I have been using it mainly to get inside the cabinet boxes where I can take advantage of the barrow fan and low volume without too much blowback. I really want to try another LVLP gun to confirm my suspicions.
I have been painting my own work trucks for years in my shop ! They aren't perfect, but look way better than i bought them. Im not taking them to a car show . 😜🤣 I wet my floor down before I spray.
@@AZOverland2017 Awesome job and video! I used to work at a body shop that was built out of the boss's home garage. We cleaned, mopped, left damp and he had someone build exhaust fans that would clamp up to the standard garage doors. We also would color sand and buff after every paint job. Shout out from the east valley!
I use box fans blowing into furnace filters blowing out the garage also tape cardboard in between the fans that creates a much better draw and less dust and bugs coming into the garage
Awesome work. I have seen people are looking for a way to spray at home. I would do early in the morning just after 9am or before 1pm as the sunset rise during the day or you can do it after the sunset rise down before the night or you could get a canopy so you can spray at any time you want. I have been spraying in my back garden so far no problem 😊
Thinking of buying a InoKraft LVLP gun, saw a guy base and clear a bumper cover with one , did a good job. Seeing you use it on base coat seems like it lives up to its name, low volume hehe. Would like to see someone do a full vehicle clear with one , maybe it would be just slower to lay down the clear I guess.
I think it is a very good gun. Yes, you can do a full paint job with it but you have to pay attention to overlap and it will certainly be a slower process because fan pattern is smaller. I would definitely like more time with this gun to dial it in. Another gun to take into consideration is the AeroPro R500 amzn.to/3z0tyrA
@@AZOverland2017 Thanks, I dont do work for anyone expect my own vehicles, I am learning how to lay base coat /blend which can be a bit frustrating unless doing the whole vehicle which makes base coating much easier, my cars are all metallic too.. I can clear coat pretty well but my lighting sucks a bit so going to put in a few more lights. Cut and buff , cut and buff. I dont mind a small amount of orange peel actually, but the dry areas suck hence the need for better lighting.
I built my own paint booth using 2X2's and aluminum sheeting I got from a RV junkyard that comes apart as prebuilt panels and is stored in the attic of my shop. When I need it I'll just pull it down rinse it off and bolt it back together rinse it off and paint whatever I need, cost me about $500 to make 10 years ago but it's saved me alot of money.
Nice work! Could you please comment on why you did not use a sealer coat before the base or your perspective on the pro's and con's of doing so? Thank you.
I may have used a sealer if I had small primed areas throughout the whole vehicle and more actual dent repairs/bodywork than I had. I don't seal often. Years ago when we were using primer with a lacquer thinner reduction, sealer served as a good barrier between the repaired areas and the basecoat. With today's 2k primers I feel that barrier is not really necessary in most cases. When using sealer, you need to lay it down perfectly before the color or you will be doing additional prep before that color is sprayed. So, 1 more potential challenge, especially if you are trying out a new gun like I was. If I was in a professional spray booth and this was a show car, I may have sealed it but it wasn't necessary with this project.
@@AZOverland2017 Thank you for your very informative reply. I am getting close to doing the real paint job after many iterations of primer and filler and sanding. I am using the PPG VP2050 combination sandable epoxy and high build primer. For the final paint using PPG sealer and DBC2000 base and a high build clear. I would be most grateful if you could please elaborate on what the function of the portable exhaust fans is in your setup? I am planning on not having perfect laydown on any coat and sanding to 600 in between everything and plenty of clear for final paint correction, but have heard different stories on whether ventilating the booth (in my case a garage) will lead to solvent popping. Thank you so much!
Love it, this is me to the "T"! Have you tried "dip" paint? The peelable paint job, or I like to call it spray on wrap. The cost of a paint job doing it yourself will be comparable, but the prep is much less. If you have any bodywork areas or failing paint need to be sanded to 800 grit level and the dip is pretty forgiving. Big difference is less prep time, and if you want a flaked job or like a pearl is somewhere around half the cost in materials. Standard dip colors come out matte or satin at best so they look like a rattle can job if you don't pick the right color
Looks nice. A few days ago I was going to spray just clear coat on a couple spots on the roof of my '92 4runner that had lost their clear coat, but had a spot that I sanded thru the paint, and an old spray can of nearly correct duplicolor. Ended up spraying the can, and then coating as much as I could with the 2k clear coat can. I've sanded with up to 2000, and am starting the polishing. It's not perfect, but it's on the roof and it is doing pretty well. Plus it's my trail work vehicle, and the one the kids get to learn stick on. Yours is turning out nice, but I might have been tempted to go with another color if doing the whole thing. I really like my burgundy (mine is 3k3 garnet pearl, touchup is 3k4 gunfire red metallic), though the burgundy on a recent f150 is a little better, and I always love the one on new Mazdas. Any of those would be close enough on mine to not worry about the interiors of doors and such. But not everyone bothers with that, like a repainted Tesla in town where you see the old color when they open the doors. Thanks for the video. This time mine wasn't perfect, though a big improvement and suitable for the non-visible roof. But while the whole truck doesn't need to be redone, if I redo the hood next I'll be following your more complete process.
@@AZOverland2017 Yea, I take driving stick for granted, but remember being nervous taking my drivers test on it. Just finished with the 4runner. Turns out I had an older used 7" polisher, so just needed to pick up a microfiber bonnet cover for it yesterday at HF for $3. I used Ultimate Compound, Cleaning Wax, and some other wax polish in different places, not really finding one that was much better than the others. The only thing I would really suggest is draping 100% of the vehicle or other stuff that you aren't painting (I see a line on my hood where I had it covered and where I didn't, from the clear coat), fully prepping everywhere that you are going to paint/clearcoat (I should have sanded the edges a little more, and should have scuffed or removed wax further), and blend or soft filter at the edges of your area (both paint and clear). I probably hit 90-95%, which is fine on this 4runner and where the paint/clear is. But it wouldn't have taken that much more to hit 99%. Probably just a little more planning, and sanding up to a higher level beforehand. And HF only has up to 2000 grit sandpaper, whereas going to 2500 or 3000 would have helped even more when smoothing out the clear. I'll be getting some of that for my collection (amazon has assorted packs for cheap), and buying a nicer polisher. This was my first time ever using one, and it did the job decently, but a random orbital would be helpful and I could see using it once a year on each car with some compound or polish, and hand waxing the other times. If I could add a picture I would. She came out nice! I look forward to seeing your video on it. And while I don't have fancy spray guns, I might use one next time. It's always fun to use one of the spray guns, though I've yet to do anytime precision with them. This was a great experience, and now I know the possibilities and work involved with some of those vehicles out there with bad clear coats or paint.
I'm on a corner lot on the edge of town inside city limits of Small Town USA. There is a towing business right across the road. My garage used to be used for refridgeration repair. Had an office area, 2 bays. 2 220 outlets. Great set up. But still I don't want to attract the attention of the city, so I keep what i'm doing discreet. Door shut or cracked. 30 inch fan with booth filter running. From the amount of stuff on the filters, I know it's working. I always were a respirator with prefilters even when sanding. For clear coat application, I have a lab coat with the hood covering my head. Full face respirator, heavy disposable gloves. And to minimize fog, I use a 5 stage turbine system. It takes a while to figure out how to lay out clear with a turbine system, but have found the Fuji T series gun with 1.0 works best for me. 1.3 for base. Key is turning the fluid control down and dialing in the gun for your material. Posted this comment for anyone worried about their location or potential complaints. Personal safety is equally important. But at 7 to 9 psi, turbine is a great option if you ate willing to learn the system.
Thank you. That is a great setup you have. If I did this more often I would certainly invest in exhaust fan/filter setups. When HVLP was just coming on in the late 80's and early 90's I remember a rep from Sherwin Williams coming to our body shop on Long Island to demonstrate their turbine HVLP system. It was impressive back then but so expensive since it was not widely used and new to the market. Yes, PPE is extremely important in this profession
Enjoyed your video chiming in from Perth WA in Aussie. I am going to paint 2 x cars ( my 88 black Merc 560SEC coupe & my 89 dark blue 560SEL 4 door sedan) in the coming months as a DIY in my double garage just like yours. I have set up 300 litres of compressed air with 3 stage filter & have a decent range of guns for primer, base & clear (devilbiss, Sagola etc) and temp fans set up to pull air out of the garage. I fully re-painted my sons Ford Transit Van (white) out on the driveway in 2 stage as too tall for a garage and it actually came out damn good. But my Mercs i want a really good job so i will need to do my homweork as to the garage set to make it as dust free as possible with decent airflow so always looking for good tips. I am just a self taught DIY guy
Welcome mate! Sounds like you have everything you need. Just make sure you blow the garage out and wet the floor before painting. Tack all surfaces before 1st coat and between all basecoats. Unless you have something crazy that lands in the paint, you will be able to sand and polish it out nicely. Good luk!
Hello from the uk, awesome video, a pleasure to watch, very informative, i've srayed my 86 ford capri in a garage before about 6 years ago, time for a respray soon ive picked up some great tips from you. Real nice gun you have, my weapon of choice is a devilbiss flg, not the most expensive but still a great gun for the price
Greetings for the US. Thanks for your comment. I've used Devilbiss guns years ago but a siphon cup, not gravity feed. It was an excellent gun. You don't need a really expensive gun to get good results. Good luck with the Capri. I like those years body style.
Great video- if you are in larger city there are a fair amount of rental paint garage spaces that i have always been curious about - but the price was reasonable if i lived closer
I don't remember seeing in the video you mentioning what kind of white base you used. I see the clear coat in the links, but not the paint. Great job !!
They make an adapter piece for your gun to change your cups. Another thing to help out your clear coat use a CLEAN non cloth towel and use thinner on the panels that don’t have primer after you clean it with wax grease cleaner and when you spray that clear just watch the magic 🪄 ✨ 🤘🏾
Looks well, your conditions are just like mine and i turn out nice jobs every week but i do have expensive guns and all the equipment . Mine is not a hobby and i work on very high end cars which i.ve been doing for 47 yrs . Great work 👍
That's great. My Optima gun I bought I think in 1989 or 1990. Cost me $400 back then. It was well worth it. Everyone in the shop was still using siphon guns but the guy who taught me had this gravity feed and everyone though he was crazy. Turns out, he was ahead of his time.
Great video, just found your channel. Just wondering how did you manage to use your hvlp gun with the 21 gallon compressor? Most of those guns require 8-13 cfm. I’m pretty sure that compressor doesn’t support high cfm tools. I’m getting ready to do a full paint job myself, this would really help me out. Thanks.
I did not have an issue with this compressor keeping up with the HVLP. You just need to keep an eye on the pressure at the gun with a regulator and you can adjust accordingly if it drops. I was right around 38 psi at the gun with the HVLP and about 22 with the LVLP. The compressor did kick on but never had an issue keeping air in the tank. I will however continue to look for a higher quality LVLP as I would like to be able to achieve the same results as the HVLP with the ability to have less overspray and use less material.
When you changed to your other paint gun, did you use a different compressor? The first gun was LVLP and you second was HVLP. The SCFM for HVLP guns is much higher than for LVLP.
I did not. The compressor kept up well. Not ideal, but very doable. I kept an eye and feel on pressure at the gun and it didn't drop much and was spraying very well. I took my time to let the compressor recover but not much more than I normally would. At times, I bumped the regulator up at the gun as well
I’d recommend using telescopic aluminium poles holding up wall film as tape has unstuck on me & falling onto paint job!! Plus have poles every 1-1 1/2 meters so wind/air blowing through the garage. I actually use extraction I bought online fan so air isn’t blowing into the room blowing dust off plastic walls! I also use used but cleanly washed blankets for the floor & wet them damp as eliminates dust blowing up off floor as spray gun air blows on floor when painting. I’m also fully clothed eliminating any body hair falling onto the job! Wax & Grease hose, spray gun also just prior painting as dust or silicone can come from anywhere. Totally cover all walls & ceiling with static film available from auto paint shops!! Not worth cutting corners or using crap masking as paint so expensive plus the amount time prepping & painting to have to sand it all & start again isn’t worth saving little money or time on prep work!! 80% is all in the prep & more you put into it, better the result. When Wax n Greasing wipe one direction with one microfibre cloth then directly after wipe off same direction with another dry cloth so not rubbing in any silicone may have fallen on the paint as silicone can travel as far as 3 doors down from the street!! Seal off garage as well as possible & any gaps in ceiling, doors etc… it’s ok to have gap where extraction fan is located as the air blowing out will stop any air/dust/silicone coming in!! Ensure no silicone based products in garage near the car or exposed open tins of paint
All very good suggestions! I just built a portable paint booth in the garage to take the place of this one. Check it out th-cam.com/video/CU2GgEeHFvI/w-d-xo.html
I did not have a problem. Yes, a slight pressure loss at the gun but if you pay attention to the gun regulator you can adjust there if need be. There was no problem with waiting for the compressor to fill with air. It kept up just fine.
You can remove the masking when the paint is dry to the touch. I touch the tapes closest to a painted panel to check. If the paint is tacky on the tape, I wait. Its usually a few hours, but you can wait till the next day. In certain situations, you might want to pull certain areas a little earlier
What was the CFM ratings for the paint guns you used? We have very similar garage size and I will be spraying my truck soon. You did really well for DYI.
I'll put the link below for the LVLP gun I used that should have it's specs. The HVLP gun I used I have no idea. I purchased it in probably 1989 or 1990. The compressor I used worked very well with both guns. Of course, a larger compressor would be better. amzn.to/4bQUSXF
@@matthewdavid2010 If jams need to be painted I would do them all before, then mask the way I did. Edges get painted with these passes. I tape/mask inside each jam and between body panels. Usually at a hard line in the jam or sometimes I roll the tape and create a soft edge
@@cocarr1 I didn’t know lacquer was even a thing anymore? I remember way back in the day some of us street motor head dudes would see a paint job and someone would pipe up and say, “Hey, that’s so and so and his ride has 8 coats of red” or something along those lines.
I haven't used the Porophis gun but am interested in trying it. I happen to love Garage Noise's channel. But keep in mind that when a channel recommends a product many times they earn a commission on that product. I am by no means saying that is the case with this, but I like to test these products out fully before I recommend something.
Curious if you can share how much base coat was used on the 4Runner? I need to paint one as well and estimated paint usage is always a challenge for me.
Sure. I had2 quarts made and I used probably just over 1 quart. Don't forget I was using a LVLP gun for basecoat which uses less material. If you are not using an LVLP you will use more, but I would say the 2 quarts is still plenty. If you are in complete primer (not just spots like I had) you will be 3 quarts - 1 gallon.
Good job, when I saw you painting the basecoat I thought that fan doesn't look very wide, would need a few more passes but you got there in the end. just wondered how long you left the basecoat to dry before applying the clearcoat, was it still tacky or dry enough to go over with a tack rag, thanks. Greetings from the UK.
There are many options available. I would go down to a local auto body supply store and see what line they carry and what information they can provide. They usually are available at different tiers so it depends on your budget. I use PPG paints for the most part. Single stage is a good choice for a garage job
I've used it 2 times since and still a small pattern. I need to measure it, but it is definitely smaller than 11 inches. Wide open fluid and wide open fan. Not sure what's going on with my gun
Hi Thanks for the great video, it’s really helpful to watch videos like this while do the some job myself in my garage. Can I ask where you get those soft flat sanding pads that you use to sand by hand, I’m struggling to find them online? Regards Mark.
I prepped my car with 240 grit because I had a lot of them for orbital sander... Do you think thats too rough? Im not doing high build or anything like that. Its a camping truck
@@wtjonny are you talking about putting a base coat right over the 240 or going into primer? If you're doing timer over 2:40 you're going to need to mix it thick and then put a Geico over when standing with $600 for base coat to make sure you have all the scratches up
I did paint one on my garage and nobody complained as far as I know. Then about a year later I start preparing a second car for paint and I have my next door neighbor asking me if I going to paint again. 🤔 She doesn't look happy about it.
If I had a neighbor complain I would rethink it. I would either find a booth to rent or invest in some filtered exhaust fans. Pricey, but worth it. Good luck!
@@AZOverland2017 yes, I'm looking for a solution to this matter, right now I'm doing the body work and that is going to take a while because I don't work on the car daily. Most likely I will take it to a friend's paint shop to paint it there, thank you for the advice. 👍
I cannot even begin to imagine why I would care what my neighbors said, did, or even thought about what I was doing on my own property!! 🤯 As long g as I'm not spraying their car or their house, they wouldn't have any right to say a word! (And if I WAS spraying their car or house, they could THEN either file a lawsuit against me or just ask me to pay for repairs
@@inthelandofmorethansmall7582 I guess for me it's just a matter of respect. I like them, they live close by, we help each other with things. So, if it was bothering them or their pets, I would want to know. Just the way I was raised
Well, I was able to complete this project with it. It wasn't ideal, but it worked. I had to stop every few minutes and let the compressor catch up but was able to keep busy with hand sanding in other area while that happened
Nice video. How often do you leave between the main coats of paint and then the clear coats? I painted a motorcycle and I feel like I always read you're supposed to do paint coats relatively close together. For the clear coats, do you wait for paint coats to fully dry first? Or should you paint and immediately go into clear?
@@N0Fumar I don't go by time because that depends on weather, humidity, etc. I will touch the tape that is right near a panel I painted. If it is Dry to the touch (not stringy when I pull my finger away) it's ready for clear. I think the day I painted it, it was probably 30 minutes between color and clear
@@N0Fumar With some of the products I've used 24 hr max between base and clear. I would read the manufacturer specs on the product you are using. If the base remains uncontaminated, and you wait say, a week, you may want to give a fine grit scuff before cleaning
Wear nitrile gloves when you're wiping down the vehicle, otherwise you're just transferring the oils in your skin onto the cloth and when you flip the cloth over, it will have them get smeared onto the panel you're trying to clean... I too live in AZ (in San Tan Valley)
What speed of reducer do you use for Hot Dry weather us Desert folks should use for low humititties?? I like using single stage paints! Clear Coats cook off in the High Desert sun :)
@@jeffkeenan5439 Yes, definitely cheaper for a single stage and it was definitely a consideration. I wanted to keep with what the factory did. There were a few other reasons, but that was the main one
@@AZOverland2017 just find without a booth having to put down numerous coat with the clear over base method is your trapping a lot more dust bugs ect between the numerous coats
@@jeffkeenan5439 "Stuff" getting in a basecoat is typically not an issue. The basecoats don't go down very wet like clear. They dry fast and I'm using a tack rag between coats. Any imperfections can easily be sanded out and blended in before clear. You actually have more of a chance to bury dust and bugs in a single stage because you are laying down 3-5 wet coats and are usually not using a tack rag between those coats. The more wet coats, the more opportunity for things to land in the paint.
Paint fumes are highly explosive. It would be prudent to verify that nothing can arc/spark before spraying...especially your exhaust fans. They should have sealed motors. Static discharge can also cause an explosion. Be safe.
Yes, I agree, all precautions should be taken, thank you. Back in the late 80's early 90's when I was young and did this professionally in Body Shops, the older guys who taught me would be smoking cigarettes while painting or had propane open flame heaters going in the winter. I don't know how we survived 🤷♂️
Yes, that is certainly a concern. We have a paint booth rental not too far from me that is actually reasonably priced. Try to look for one if you are concerned about painting at home. I would buy some filtered exhaust fans if this was done often.
@@SuperchiefApache I haven't used one but from the videos I've watched they seem very promising as long as you have the room to put it and enough space around the vehicle to work
What were your settings at the compressor and at the gun please. Got same air compressor and lvlp r500 gun. Need psi at gun and compressor please also tip sizes to please.
Compressor regulator set to right around 150. Gun was about 22 for basecoat with fan wide open. If I used this for clear I would bump that pressure up probably closer to 26 and fan wide open. Fluid volume was about 3 out from close but I would probably open that a bit more also
@@ea.4997 Lol, I thought the same after the 3rd coat. It was freaking me out because I know all other primed spots were covered. It turns out it was a shadow from the large hose reel I have bolted to the ceiling directly above the hood.
@@clarencemack4382 There are a lot of variables to consider. What kind of gun? Does your compressor have a quick recovery? What pressure do you spray at? With my particular setup, I was able to spray the entire car. The compressor kept up. Your going to need to get used to what you have and how to adjust pressures as you need to. If the compressor is good, then it's likely it will work
![ลองสุ่มไอโฟน 990 โกงมั้ย? [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.101 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfsWe0j492k/mqdefault.jpg)
Check out the NEW Paint Booth here:
th-cam.com/video/CU2GgEeHFvI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=prUgUxInLVTzyJP9
**If you are painting your own vehicle like I did, Please use explosion proof fans, filters, and proper PPE (mask, eyes, and body). Also, pilot light off on gas water heaters in the garage. ***
Tip.... once you turn the exhaust fan on.... let it run 10-15 minutes to get a draft started to pull down dirt/dust from inside the garage/paint booth.....then blow down/final wash and tac the vehicle....if you increase the fan speed/draft/suction during the painting process.... you increase the risk of pulling up/stirring up more
dirt/dust from inside the garage/paint booth.
A mixture of rubbing alcohol and water works as a final wash.
For the final tacking.... a clean hand works better than a tac rag.... you'll be able to feel for dust.
Turned out good for DIY garage paint job.
Thank you!
Also little tip, if creating your own "final wash" use isopropyl alcohol instead of rubbing alcohol. Rubbing alcohol has oils in it and other additives.
If you gots peeling clear coat most likely that panel needs to be stripped. Take a high power magnifying glass and look at the base coat and most often you will see cracking. If you paint over that cracking it will transfer through your new paint sometimes in less than a week.
Thank you
Years ago, I did this, entry door I filled with filters, had one garage panel where I put the fan. Worked great.
Nice! I have since upgraded my garage setup as well. Check it out:
th-cam.com/video/CU2GgEeHFvI/w-d-xo.html
Painted 2 trucks, 1 car in the driveway. Many motorcycles in the garage. Due diligence in sweeping/cleaning and they come out quite well.
@@mauricecanney7472 Agreed! Nice job
About to do the same thing, exactly! My 35 year old Olds Trofeo, parked for 10 years due to electronic gremlins, is now repaired and alive again. Of course, it's the vintage car where the white paint flakes off just for fun,, so I'm stripping it all back to bare metal. I'll also be using a new gun, a HF Black Widow, which will be a new experience, so I hope to have the same successful results you have.
Awesome. I've heard good things about the Black Widow. Good luck with the project!
Super result. Dust sometimes has to do with static electricity. A ground wire helps to prevent.
@@ulbehempenius5348 Thank you!
This gives me a lot more confidence painting in the garage, will definitely copy your booth setup! Watched the other vids and it turned out great! I’ve got a ‘91 bmw project that will at some point need to be repainted. Funny this popped up, I’m also in the west valley and I’ve got a ‘97 FJ80 my dad and I have built up over the years.
That's awesome! Check out the new booth I put in on a video I did recently. The one I used in the video worked great for a single use. If you have any questions when doing the paint or need me to pop over to give some pointers, shoot me an email with your info. As long as you're not too far, I can check it out for you
brothersadventuresllc@gmail.com
@@AZOverland2017 I saw that setup video, looks perfect for garage DIY! And I really appreciate that, when the time comes I'll let you know if I have any questions! I'm around the NW corner of the 101. My GF's tacoma needs a hood respray, so that'd be a good way to get comfortable spraying without worrying about doing an entire car. A lot easier to respray a hood if anything goes wrong. Who would you go to for OEM Toyota paint colors?
@@jooooohn401 Go to ADCO Paint Supply at 6620 W Orangewood.
Great job on the video! Thanks for making it. I use my garage as a paint booth far more frequently than I'd like. The good news is that here in Vegas, paint dries in about half the time as usual, so my garage isn't out of commission for too long.
That's great. Same here in AZ. Especially now
awesome work man! love to see old toyota's get a 2nd lease on life.
Thank you, she's coming along nicely!
That is a cool little trailer. I love 2nd gen 4Runners. I paint for a living. I suggest wearing gloves when you’re doing the wax and grease remover. I’ve had the rag slip and my fingers hit the car and had to clean the panel again.
Agreed!
Had a good laugh when I saw the sharps on the dura gold disk box. I had a heck of a time reading that small print on the box so I had to do the same.
@@mikez6683 Which part of the video?
@@AZOverland2017 Right in the beginning. You have 600 written on the box. I have the same sandpaper. I can’t see the number on the box so mine is the same way with the sharpy. It actually looked like you had my boxes in your garage.
@@mikez6683 Ahhh. Yeah, I like to mark it all so I can just grab and go. No time to squint
Good job, I think the process is straightforward and the results show.
Thank you!
Low velocity low pressure does have a smaller fan, it is designed that way due to the lower volume of paint and air going out whereas your conventional high velocity high volume high pressure guns have a higher variable, HVHP is good for large coverage as you said a whole car, for 4 door and hatchback it will do a good job but as you said, more coverage can be done with the HVHP. I am going with LVLP for the versatility of it having a smaller fan you can go into wierd places the high volume ones cause overspray. Fun tools to use, I actually learned with gluing pannels on cabinets. The guy who taught me how to use the tool used to paint and taught me the motions and I just practiced while doing that job. Beautiful finish on your truck! I like the shade of white you chose.
Thanks! It is the OEM white paint code. I agree on the LVLP, but I still feel I have a problem with my gun. I paint cabinets and furniture as well and have been playing with it recently on those jobs. It seems to start off with an acceptable fan width then after A few passes it narrows. I thought it was due to pressure loss at the gun but even playing with that I still ended up with a narrow fan. So, as you said, I have been using it mainly to get inside the cabinet boxes where I can take advantage of the barrow fan and low volume without too much blowback. I really want to try another LVLP gun to confirm my suspicions.
The v in lvlp or hvlp is refering to volume not velocity
I have been painting my own work trucks for years in my shop ! They aren't perfect, but look way better than i bought them. Im not taking them to a car show . 😜🤣 I wet my floor down before I spray.
Yes, if I have a bare concrete floor, I definitely wet it down. My floors are epoxy under the paper we put down. Not ideal for water :)
@@AZOverland2017
Awesome job and video!
I used to work at a body shop that was built out of the boss's home garage. We cleaned, mopped, left damp and he had someone build exhaust fans that would clamp up to the standard garage doors.
We also would color sand and buff after every paint job.
Shout out from the east valley!
@@lennym480 Love it! West Valley here!
@@AZOverland2017
Gotta give support to the locals!
New subscriber.
I use box fans blowing into furnace filters blowing out the garage also tape cardboard in between the fans that creates a much better draw and less dust and bugs coming into the garage
Thank you. I've been working on a similar setup but I really like hearing about what is working well for others!
Looks good the DIY's with another win.
Thank you
Awesome work. I have seen people are looking for a way to spray at home. I would do early in the morning just after 9am or before 1pm as the sunset rise during the day or you can do it after the sunset rise down before the night or you could get a canopy so you can spray at any time you want. I have been spraying in my back garden so far no problem 😊
@@chris01479 Thanks! I like the way you think👍
Awesome paint job!
@@shawncoffin1153 Thank you!
Thinking of buying a InoKraft LVLP gun, saw a guy base and clear a bumper cover with one , did a good job. Seeing you use it on base coat seems like it lives up to its name, low volume hehe. Would like to see someone do a full vehicle clear with one , maybe it would be just slower to lay down the clear I guess.
I think it is a very good gun. Yes, you can do a full paint job with it but you have to pay attention to overlap and it will certainly be a slower process because fan pattern is smaller. I would definitely like more time with this gun to dial it in. Another gun to take into consideration is the AeroPro R500
amzn.to/3z0tyrA
@@AZOverland2017 Thanks, I dont do work for anyone expect my own vehicles, I am learning how to lay base coat /blend which can be a bit frustrating unless doing the whole vehicle which makes base coating much easier, my cars are all metallic too.. I can clear coat pretty well but my lighting sucks a bit so going to put in a few more lights. Cut and buff , cut and buff. I dont mind a small amount of orange peel actually, but the dry areas suck hence the need for better lighting.
thanks for your information on garage spraying
Thanks for watching
I built my own paint booth using 2X2's and aluminum sheeting I got from a RV junkyard that comes apart as prebuilt panels and is stored in the attic of my shop. When I need it I'll just pull it down rinse it off and bolt it back together rinse it off and paint whatever I need, cost me about $500 to make 10 years ago but it's saved me alot of money.
Great idea!
@@AZOverland2017 Yep up front cost wasn';t "cheap" but the come back has saved me alot of money
Nice work! Could you please comment on why you did not use a sealer coat before the base or your perspective on the pro's and con's of doing so? Thank you.
I may have used a sealer if I had small primed areas throughout the whole vehicle and more actual dent repairs/bodywork than I had. I don't seal often. Years ago when we were using primer with a lacquer thinner reduction, sealer served as a good barrier between the repaired areas and the basecoat. With today's 2k primers I feel that barrier is not really necessary in most cases.
When using sealer, you need to lay it down perfectly before the color or you will be doing additional prep before that color is sprayed. So, 1 more potential challenge, especially if you are trying out a new gun like I was. If I was in a professional spray booth and this was a show car, I may have sealed it but it wasn't necessary with this project.
@@AZOverland2017 Thank you for your very informative reply. I am getting close to doing the real paint job after many iterations of primer and filler and sanding. I am using the PPG VP2050 combination sandable epoxy and high build primer. For the final paint using PPG sealer and DBC2000 base and a high build clear. I would be most grateful if you could please elaborate on what the function of the portable exhaust fans is in your setup? I am planning on not having perfect laydown on any coat and sanding to 600 in between everything and plenty of clear for final paint correction, but have heard different stories on whether ventilating the booth (in my case a garage) will lead to solvent popping. Thank you so much!
Love your videos ! How worried should I be about the overspray drafting under the garage door ?
I don't want to give my neighbors a free paint job 😂
I would make sure you are clear for a minimum of 20-30 ft. Wind will also play into this
Love it, this is me to the "T"! Have you tried "dip" paint? The peelable paint job, or I like to call it spray on wrap. The cost of a paint job doing it yourself will be comparable, but the prep is much less. If you have any bodywork areas or failing paint need to be sanded to 800 grit level and the dip is pretty forgiving. Big difference is less prep time, and if you want a flaked job or like a pearl is somewhere around half the cost in materials. Standard dip colors come out matte or satin at best so they look like a rattle can job if you don't pick the right color
I shot my wheels and emblems with Hyperdip a few years ago. Loved it for that but wanted a light restoration factory finish for this project
Great job Anthony. Quite impressive. Wonderful detailed work.
Thank you, I appreciate it!
Looks nice. A few days ago I was going to spray just clear coat on a couple spots on the roof of my '92 4runner that had lost their clear coat, but had a spot that I sanded thru the paint, and an old spray can of nearly correct duplicolor. Ended up spraying the can, and then coating as much as I could with the 2k clear coat can. I've sanded with up to 2000, and am starting the polishing. It's not perfect, but it's on the roof and it is doing pretty well. Plus it's my trail work vehicle, and the one the kids get to learn stick on. Yours is turning out nice, but I might have been tempted to go with another color if doing the whole thing. I really like my burgundy (mine is 3k3 garnet pearl, touchup is 3k4 gunfire red metallic), though the burgundy on a recent f150 is a little better, and I always love the one on new Mazdas. Any of those would be close enough on mine to not worry about the interiors of doors and such. But not everyone bothers with that, like a repainted Tesla in town where you see the old color when they open the doors.
Thanks for the video. This time mine wasn't perfect, though a big improvement and suitable for the non-visible roof. But while the whole truck doesn't need to be redone, if I redo the hood next I'll be following your more complete process.
Thanks for watching and good luck with the '92. It's great you are teaching the kids to drive a manual. It's a lost art
@@AZOverland2017 Yea, I take driving stick for granted, but remember being nervous taking my drivers test on it.
Just finished with the 4runner. Turns out I had an older used 7" polisher, so just needed to pick up a microfiber bonnet cover for it yesterday at HF for $3. I used Ultimate Compound, Cleaning Wax, and some other wax polish in different places, not really finding one that was much better than the others. The only thing I would really suggest is draping 100% of the vehicle or other stuff that you aren't painting (I see a line on my hood where I had it covered and where I didn't, from the clear coat), fully prepping everywhere that you are going to paint/clearcoat (I should have sanded the edges a little more, and should have scuffed or removed wax further), and blend or soft filter at the edges of your area (both paint and clear). I probably hit 90-95%, which is fine on this 4runner and where the paint/clear is. But it wouldn't have taken that much more to hit 99%. Probably just a little more planning, and sanding up to a higher level beforehand. And HF only has up to 2000 grit sandpaper, whereas going to 2500 or 3000 would have helped even more when smoothing out the clear. I'll be getting some of that for my collection (amazon has assorted packs for cheap), and buying a nicer polisher. This was my first time ever using one, and it did the job decently, but a random orbital would be helpful and I could see using it once a year on each car with some compound or polish, and hand waxing the other times.
If I could add a picture I would. She came out nice! I look forward to seeing your video on it. And while I don't have fancy spray guns, I might use one next time. It's always fun to use one of the spray guns, though I've yet to do anytime precision with them. This was a great experience, and now I know the possibilities and work involved with some of those vehicles out there with bad clear coats or paint.
I'm on a corner lot on the edge of town inside city limits of Small Town USA. There is a towing business right across the road. My garage used to be used for refridgeration repair. Had an office area, 2 bays. 2 220 outlets. Great set up. But still I don't want to attract the attention of the city, so I keep what i'm doing discreet. Door shut or cracked. 30 inch fan with booth filter running. From the amount of stuff on the filters, I know it's working.
I always were a respirator with prefilters even when sanding. For clear coat application, I have a lab coat with the hood covering my head. Full face respirator, heavy disposable gloves.
And to minimize fog, I use a 5 stage turbine system. It takes a while to figure out how to lay out clear with a turbine system, but have found the Fuji T series gun with 1.0 works best for me. 1.3 for base. Key is turning the fluid control down and dialing in the gun for your material.
Posted this comment for anyone worried about their location or potential complaints. Personal safety is equally important. But at 7 to 9 psi, turbine is a great option if you ate willing to learn the system.
Thank you. That is a great setup you have. If I did this more often I would certainly invest in exhaust fan/filter setups. When HVLP was just coming on in the late 80's and early 90's I remember a rep from Sherwin Williams coming to our body shop on Long Island to demonstrate their turbine HVLP system. It was impressive back then but so expensive since it was not widely used and new to the market. Yes, PPE is extremely important in this profession
Enjoyed your video chiming in from Perth WA in Aussie. I am going to paint 2 x cars ( my 88 black Merc 560SEC coupe & my 89 dark blue 560SEL 4 door sedan) in the coming months as a DIY in my double garage just like yours. I have set up 300 litres of compressed air with 3 stage filter & have a decent range of guns for primer, base & clear (devilbiss, Sagola etc) and temp fans set up to pull air out of the garage. I fully re-painted my sons Ford Transit Van (white) out on the driveway in 2 stage as too tall for a garage and it actually came out damn good. But my Mercs i want a really good job so i will need to do my homweork as to the garage set to make it as dust free as possible with decent airflow so always looking for good tips. I am just a self taught DIY guy
Welcome mate! Sounds like you have everything you need. Just make sure you blow the garage out and wet the floor before painting. Tack all surfaces before 1st coat and between all basecoats. Unless you have something crazy that lands in the paint, you will be able to sand and polish it out nicely. Good luk!
Hello from the uk, awesome video, a pleasure to watch, very informative, i've srayed my 86 ford capri in a garage before about 6 years ago, time for a respray soon ive picked up some great tips from you. Real nice gun you have, my weapon of choice is a devilbiss flg, not the most expensive but still a great gun for the price
Greetings for the US. Thanks for your comment. I've used Devilbiss guns years ago but a siphon cup, not gravity feed. It was an excellent gun. You don't need a really expensive gun to get good results. Good luck with the Capri. I like those years body style.
Great video- if you are in larger city there are a fair amount of rental paint garage spaces that i have always been curious about - but the price was reasonable if i lived closer
There's only 1 out here by me in Phoenix that I'm aware of. I'm building a roll-up booth in my garage now...
I don't remember seeing in the video you mentioning what kind of white base you used. I see the clear coat in the links, but not the paint. Great job !!
I got the white at a local auto body supply store. It is made by PPG called Omni. It is the original white from the factory for the 1991 4Runner
Outstanding video! Thanks for all the detail.
@@anndrake492 Thank you
You did a great job! Ready to see the next!
Thank you! Probably Tuesday
Very nice job brother. Thank you for sharing my friend 👍🏻😎
Thanks for watching and your words🙏
They make an adapter piece for your gun to change your cups. Another thing to help out your clear coat use a CLEAN non cloth towel and use thinner on the panels that don’t have primer after you clean it with wax grease cleaner and when you spray that clear just watch the magic 🪄 ✨ 🤘🏾
Thank you. I honestly didn't expect to be using the 2 nd gun or I would have had the disposable system set up for that one also.
Looks well, your conditions are just like mine and i turn out nice jobs every week but i do have expensive guns and all the equipment . Mine is not a hobby and i work on very high end cars which i.ve been doing for 47 yrs . Great work 👍
That's great. My Optima gun I bought I think in 1989 or 1990. Cost me $400 back then. It was well worth it. Everyone in the shop was still using siphon guns but the guy who taught me had this gravity feed and everyone though he was crazy. Turns out, he was ahead of his time.
What a talented man you are, Anthony! I loved watching you do this and I don't even want to try it. :))
I appreciate you and your support!
Realy nice job
@@davonfortune9181 Thank you!
It’s white. I’d wet sand 2000 with a da and interface pad on the hair nibs lol and then cut and buff
Very cool. I learned a lot from this .
Glad it helped!
Can't wait to see it finished. Great video
soon, soon...
Thank you for the quick reply.
Anytime
very nice job ,looks great
@@sheldongilbert808 I appreciate it!!
Amazing transformation.
Thank you!
Good video, not boring and very informative,djout out from KaapStaad
@@zakmey6944 I appreciate it
Thank heavens for NO HOA! Good Yob man!
Thank you
Yay looking good bro 🙌
We are getting there. Thank you
Great video, just found your channel. Just wondering how did you manage to use your hvlp gun with the 21 gallon compressor? Most of those guns require 8-13 cfm. I’m pretty sure that compressor doesn’t support high cfm tools. I’m getting ready to do a full paint job myself, this would really help me out. Thanks.
I did not have an issue with this compressor keeping up with the HVLP. You just need to keep an eye on the pressure at the gun with a regulator and you can adjust accordingly if it drops. I was right around 38 psi at the gun with the HVLP and about 22 with the LVLP. The compressor did kick on but never had an issue keeping air in the tank.
I will however continue to look for a higher quality LVLP as I would like to be able to achieve the same results as the HVLP with the ability to have less overspray and use less material.
When you changed to your other paint gun, did you use a different compressor? The first gun was LVLP and you second was HVLP. The SCFM for HVLP guns is much higher than for LVLP.
I did not. The compressor kept up well. Not ideal, but very doable. I kept an eye and feel on pressure at the gun and it didn't drop much and was spraying very well. I took my time to let the compressor recover but not much more than I normally would. At times, I bumped the regulator up at the gun as well
Good Job 👍
Thank you!
You did an amazing job 😎🙂
Thank you 🙏
Great job.
@@jonathansmiddy7224 Thank you
I’d recommend using telescopic aluminium poles holding up wall film as tape has unstuck on me & falling onto paint job!! Plus have poles every 1-1 1/2 meters so wind/air blowing through the garage. I actually use extraction I bought online fan so air isn’t blowing into the room blowing dust off plastic walls! I also use used but cleanly washed blankets for the floor & wet them damp as eliminates dust blowing up off floor as spray gun air blows on floor when painting. I’m also fully clothed eliminating any body hair falling onto the job! Wax & Grease hose, spray gun also just prior painting as dust or silicone can come from anywhere. Totally cover all walls & ceiling with static film available from auto paint shops!! Not worth cutting corners or using crap masking as paint so expensive plus the amount time prepping & painting to have to sand it all & start again isn’t worth saving little money or time on prep work!! 80% is all in the prep & more you put into it, better the result. When Wax n Greasing wipe one direction with one microfibre cloth then directly after wipe off same direction with another dry cloth so not rubbing in any silicone may have fallen on the paint as silicone can travel as far as 3 doors down from the street!! Seal off garage as well as possible & any gaps in ceiling, doors etc… it’s ok to have gap where extraction fan is located as the air blowing out will stop any air/dust/silicone coming in!! Ensure no silicone based products in garage near the car or exposed open tins of paint
All very good suggestions! I just built a portable paint booth in the garage to take the place of this one. Check it out
th-cam.com/video/CU2GgEeHFvI/w-d-xo.html
@@AZOverland2017 much much better 👍
Great video. Did you find the 4 cfm compressor had any problems when the pump went on? Did you lose pressure to the gun?
I did not have a problem. Yes, a slight pressure loss at the gun but if you pay attention to the gun regulator you can adjust there if need be. There was no problem with waiting for the compressor to fill with air. It kept up just fine.
When do you remove the tape and paper? Right after your done painting? 30 mins later? The next day?
You can remove the masking when the paint is dry to the touch. I touch the tapes closest to a painted panel to check. If the paint is tacky on the tape, I wait. Its usually a few hours, but you can wait till the next day.
In certain situations, you might want to pull certain areas a little earlier
Nice job❤❤❤
What was the CFM ratings for the paint guns you used? We have very similar garage size and I will be spraying my truck soon. You did really well for DYI.
I'll put the link below for the LVLP gun I used that should have it's specs. The HVLP gun I used I have no idea. I purchased it in probably 1989 or 1990. The compressor I used worked very well with both guns. Of course, a larger compressor would be better.
amzn.to/4bQUSXF
How do you reach the edges and the door jambs when you spray like this?
@@matthewdavid2010 If jams need to be painted I would do them all before, then mask the way I did. Edges get painted with these passes. I tape/mask inside each jam and between body panels. Usually at a hard line in the jam or sometimes I roll the tape and create a soft edge
I use hvlp. Using my glorified vacuum cleaner motor to blow air thru gun. I use a Graco hvlp gun.
Any reason why you went with base coat/clear coat over a single stage paint job? Looking to do my 2000 Tundra soon, also in white. Thanks!
It was a basecoat/ clear coat. What made you think it was a single stage?
You have a paint booth. It is your garage. Try doing this same task in the open outdoors.
I can't imagine what would fall into the paint. Wow
Use lacquer... Duplicolor Paint Shop brand. Don't know if it is available in every state, though.
@@cocarr1 I didn’t know lacquer was even a thing anymore? I remember way back in the day some of us street motor head dudes would see a paint job and someone would pipe up and say, “Hey, that’s so and so and his ride has 8 coats of red” or something along those lines.
@@cocarr1 Lacquer is garbage, much better off with a 2K product.
Brilliant 👏 video thanks for sharing that very well explained have you used the phorpis 717 1.3 gun there are going on about see it on Garage noise 😊
I haven't used the Porophis gun but am interested in trying it. I happen to love Garage Noise's channel. But keep in mind that when a channel recommends a product many times they earn a commission on that product. I am by no means saying that is the case with this, but I like to test these products out fully before I recommend something.
Curious if you can share how much base coat was used on the 4Runner? I need to paint one as well and estimated paint usage is always a challenge for me.
Sure. I had2 quarts made and I used probably just over 1 quart. Don't forget I was using a LVLP gun for basecoat which uses less material. If you are not using an LVLP you will use more, but I would say the 2 quarts is still plenty. If you are in complete primer (not just spots like I had) you will be 3 quarts - 1 gallon.
Good job, when I saw you painting the basecoat I thought that fan doesn't look very wide, would need a few more passes
but you got there in the end.
just wondered how long you left the basecoat to dry before applying the clearcoat, was it still tacky or dry enough to go
over with a tack rag, thanks.
Greetings from the UK.
It was dry enough to tack rag it. I run my finger along tape near a window to test it before I ready the next coat
Great job!
Looks great
I appreciate it!
Any recommendations on a single stage paint for a DIY garage job?
There are many options available. I would go down to a local auto body supply store and see what line they carry and what information they can provide. They usually are available at different tiers so it depends on your budget. I use PPG paints for the most part. Single stage is a good choice for a garage job
Looks great! She gonna make it off road?
Thank you! Not sure what the future plans are for this guy just yet
Looks awesome
Thank you!
My drizzle fan pattern is bout 11 inch top to bottom. Maybe just adjust the settings 🤷♂️ mine works cery well
I've used it 2 times since and still a small pattern. I need to measure it, but it is definitely smaller than 11 inches. Wide open fluid and wide open fan. Not sure what's going on with my gun
@@AZOverland2017 mm 🤷♂️ don't get me to lying I haven't a clue unless there's a defect or something
Another great one!
Thank you for your help!
Do you have to wet sand before you clear?
@@thecanman132 No you do not
the sheets covering the walls look like a scene out of dexter lol
Yes, I made a kill room for the most part 😀
Hi
Thanks for the great video, it’s really helpful to watch videos like this while do the some job myself in my garage.
Can I ask where you get those soft flat sanding pads that you use to sand by hand, I’m struggling to find them online?
Regards
Mark.
@@upbuild4397 Thanks! The one I'm using is from 3M. I can't find the same one either but this one appears similar
amzn.to/3S0S2HQ
Ah that’s great, thank you for the link 👍👍
I prepped my car with 240 grit because I had a lot of them for orbital sander... Do you think thats too rough? Im not doing high build or anything like that. Its a camping truck
@@wtjonny are you talking about putting a base coat right over the 240 or going into primer? If you're doing timer over 2:40 you're going to need to mix it thick and then put a Geico over when standing with $600 for base coat to make sure you have all the scratches up
I did paint one on my garage and nobody complained as far as I know. Then about a year later I start preparing a second car for paint and I have my next door neighbor asking me if I going to paint again. 🤔 She doesn't look happy about it.
If I had a neighbor complain I would rethink it. I would either find a booth to rent or invest in some filtered exhaust fans. Pricey, but worth it. Good luck!
@@AZOverland2017 yes, I'm looking for a solution to this matter, right now I'm doing the body work and that is going to take a while because I don't work on the car daily. Most likely I will take it to a friend's paint shop to paint it there, thank you for the advice. 👍
My neighbor has illegal rental tenants in his garage. He knows better than to ask me anything! I do whatever I want in my house!
I cannot even begin to imagine why I would care what my neighbors said, did, or even thought about what I was doing on my own property!! 🤯
As long g as I'm not spraying their car or their house, they wouldn't have any right to say a word!
(And if I WAS spraying their car or house, they could THEN either file a lawsuit against me or just ask me to pay for repairs
@@inthelandofmorethansmall7582 I guess for me it's just a matter of respect. I like them, they live close by, we help each other with things. So, if it was bothering them or their pets, I would want to know. Just the way I was raised
Can you recommend a good 2 stage air compressor that can keep up with air sanders and sandblasting? Thank you
Your compressor kept up with your DA Sander?
Well, I was able to complete this project with it. It wasn't ideal, but it worked. I had to stop every few minutes and let the compressor catch up but was able to keep busy with hand sanding in other area while that happened
Nice video. How often do you leave between the main coats of paint and then the clear coats?
I painted a motorcycle and I feel like I always read you're supposed to do paint coats relatively close together. For the clear coats, do you wait for paint coats to fully dry first? Or should you paint and immediately go into clear?
@@N0Fumar I don't go by time because that depends on weather, humidity, etc. I will touch the tape that is right near a panel I painted. If it is
Dry to the touch (not stringy when I pull my finger away) it's ready for clear.
I think the day I painted it, it was probably 30 minutes between color and clear
@@AZOverland2017 okay so you don't, say, paint the car and come back 3 days later to do clear. Gotta do it all in one go?
@@N0Fumar With some of the products I've used 24 hr max between base and clear. I would read the manufacturer specs on the product you are using. If the base remains uncontaminated, and you wait say, a week, you may want to give a fine grit scuff before cleaning
nice job. what size tip
Thanks. 1.4
Nice job, could you share your compressor information please?
Starting at 8:11 in the video I show the compressor and all the specs
Are those fans explosion proof?
These are not. Not ideal but I did just get one that is for the next project
looks good, thanks for sharing.
Thank you for watching!
What respirator are you using?
The 3M half mask and 3M vapor cartridges. See below
Mask:
amzn.to/4c7a7LQ
Carts:
amzn.to/3VA0BdN
Nice job
Thank you!
what model optima gun was that and what size tip/nozzle size? thanks
@@genek1341 Optima 800 from Germany. I bought it in like 1990 for $400. 1.4 tip
NIce video, how big is your air pump?
@@nazimzafri If you go to 8:11 in the video I show the compressor and it has all the specs on it
@@AZOverland2017 thanks!
Very informative. The grey pad is equal to 600. What is the red and green scotchbrite equal to? Would the green ever be used?
Thank you. Gray is about 600. Not sure about the green
Wear nitrile gloves when you're wiping down the vehicle, otherwise you're just transferring the oils in your skin onto the cloth and when you flip the cloth over, it will have them get smeared onto the panel you're trying to clean... I too live in AZ (in San Tan Valley)
@@randylakeman8586 thanks. good advice
@@randylakeman8586 Yes, I should have been. Thank you!
I paint when everyone is at work and kids are in school.
@@stevenhassell7677 Same here. Always a weekday after 8 am
What speed of reducer do you use for Hot Dry weather us Desert folks should use for low humititties?? I like using single stage paints! Clear Coats cook off in the High Desert sun :)
I used USC 4225 slow reducer
Nice video 👍
🙏
If it,s not a metallic why go with the base and clear coat method?wouldnt it be less work and cheaper just to lay down to good coats of solid colour ?
@@jeffkeenan5439 Yes, definitely cheaper for a single stage and it was definitely a consideration. I wanted to keep with what the factory did. There were a few other reasons, but that was the main one
@@AZOverland2017 just find without a booth having to put down numerous coat with the clear over base method is your trapping a lot more dust bugs ect between the numerous coats
@@jeffkeenan5439 "Stuff" getting in a basecoat is typically not an issue. The basecoats don't go down very wet like clear. They dry fast and I'm using a tack rag between coats. Any imperfections can easily be sanded out and blended in before clear. You actually have more of a chance to bury dust and bugs in a single stage because you are laying down 3-5 wet coats and are usually not using a tack rag between those coats. The more wet coats, the more opportunity for things to land in the paint.
Nice job....
Thanks! Just Sub'd to your channel
Paint fumes are highly explosive. It would be prudent to verify that nothing can arc/spark before spraying...especially your exhaust fans. They should have sealed motors. Static discharge can also cause an explosion. Be safe.
Yes, I agree, all precautions should be taken, thank you. Back in the late 80's early 90's when I was young and did this professionally in Body Shops, the older guys who taught me would be smoking cigarettes while painting or had propane open flame heaters going in the winter. I don't know how we survived 🤷♂️
My main concern is the neighbors complaining about the paint fumes and call the city.
Yes, that is certainly a concern. We have a paint booth rental not too far from me that is actually reasonably priced. Try to look for one if you are concerned about painting at home. I would buy some filtered exhaust fans if this was done often.
I want to paint my truck as well, but was looking at an inflatable booth. Any thoughts?
@@SuperchiefApache I haven't used one but from the videos I've watched they seem very promising as long as you have the room to put it and enough space around the vehicle to work
@@AZOverland2017Just curious. What do rental booths cost roughly and for how long?
@@Gsxrtrix You are lucky if you can find one. They are not readily available. The guy out here rents for I believe $25/hr
What were your settings at the compressor and at the gun please. Got same air compressor and lvlp r500 gun. Need psi at gun and compressor please also tip sizes to please.
Compressor regulator set to right around 150. Gun was about 22 for basecoat with fan wide open. If I used this for clear I would bump that pressure up probably closer to 26 and fan wide open. Fluid volume was about 3 out from close but I would probably open that a bit more also
@@AZOverland2017 thank you!! I'm assuming you used a 1.3 tip?
@@itsjusti4262 Yes
To me the hood looks two different colors..... Looks like you did not get enough coverage on the part of the hood that was primered......
@@ea.4997 Lol, I thought the same after the 3rd coat. It was freaking me out because I know all other primed spots were covered. It turns out it was a shadow from the large hose reel I have bolted to the ceiling directly above the hood.
Why would you leave the tail lights on when repainting?
They were removed. Refer to 14:54 and 18:04 in the video
Should sand outside keeps alot of dust out garage and can see alot better
@@joe41985 I agree but the Arizona summer is brutal and I had to stay out of the sun
So I can spray my 79 cutlass with my 26 gallon compressor you think
@@clarencemack4382 There are a lot of variables to consider. What kind of gun? Does your compressor have a quick recovery? What pressure do you spray at?
With my particular setup, I was able to spray the entire car. The compressor kept up. Your going to need to get used to what you have and how to adjust pressures as you need to. If the compressor is good, then it's likely it will work