If you use a single bevel broadhead or are thinking about it, you will want to watch this. The homemade single bevel bear hunt video. • 2016 Trad Archery bear...
For those arguing over 32 vs 35 degrees its like splitting hairs. Metallurgy, specifically what temper process, how tightly its controlled, and what specific alloy its tailored to is what really matters. The edge should be as sharp as reasonable without denting or curling on a full-pass through on bone hits. Not cinder-block brick hits, Bone. Some steels do great with 25 degree edges, some need 35 degrees to hold up. A lot of people like stainless, but the best rust-proof stainless steels are terrible for tempering, hard impact and edge retention. You would be amazed what 1060-1080 carbon steels and the common leaf-spring steels are even better. (They make axes and machetes out of that stuff, and they hold a keen edge day after day chopping wood).
GREAT video... Just about to sharpen the new VPA single bevels.- turned out when you measuring them they are almost 38 degrees.. So about to reshape them to 32 degrees..
Very informative! What are your thoughts on the Kudupoint heads as far as the single bevel angle they use, the quality of steel and out of the box sharpness?
I have watched tons of your videos over the years, i don't know how i missed this one...My son and I will be switching to single bevel heads this year, in your opinion what sharpness angle is idea for rotation and edge retention. Thank you for creating these videos!
if you are comfortable and accurate at they draw weight, I dont think "too much" is a unit of measure. Can there be too much penetration with an arrow?
When you are changing the bevel of the edge (from 20 or 25 degrees to 32 or 35 degrees), I assume it takes a while at a rougher grit. Am I correct? What grit do you use for that change the bevel stage of your sharping? I assume you don't worry about taking the burr off until you have reached the new bevel you want (since you will have be building a big burr the whole way to that bevel). Am I correct?
start with 240 grit and stop when you get a burr. Break that burr off with 240. Then use 400 until you get a 400 grit burr and break of that burr with 400. Repeat at 800 grit, 1200 grit, 2500 grit and finish with buffing compound on cereal box cardboard.
Very informative and great concept. I thought about putting a small bevel on the opposite side as well. That way it would have the double bevel integrity, with the single bevel rotation.
No knife uses a 20° inclusive angle. None. Some use 15° per side, but that's only for light use knives. Anything with heavy impact or high demand uses a steep angle. Broadheads should use at least 30°, probably more depending on the steel choice. S7 needs 45° or it'll roll over if you look at it wrong. Micro bevel for the win for those shallow edge grinds.
Ashby bowhunting foundation has data on several hundred shots through buffalo hide and bone with grizzly single bevel broadheads having 25* bevel and no issues with edge damage. IIRC, plain ol 1075 carbon steel 52 Rockwell.
@@TheJustinJ A main bevel angle of 25° will work fine with that combo, but that's it. It won't work amazingly and it won't blow your socks off. Better steel, better heat treat, and the last ~20 thousandths of an inch ground 10-15° steeper. The difference is that after the shot you might not need to sharpen it at all.
Lots of knives use a 20 degree inclusive angle. I have at least 3, It's just that they are very high-end handmade japanese chef knives both single and double bevel with very hard pure carbon steel( hitachi white #1 @ 65 rockwell).
@@jonbrown9490 I was under the impression they were more like 30° inclusive. I've seen people regrind a Spyderco paramilitary to 20° inclusive and micro bevel to just over 30°, but I don't consider what one guy goes in his garage to be a standard.
@seanyoung1875 Sure, some are around 30 degrees for sure...my kanetsune deba is. I also have an Aritsugu petty knife that has an asymmetical 15/5 grind and a Ashi Hamono gyuto has the same 15/5 grind. I will agree that you're probably not going to see a knife meant for "rougher" use that would have or even hold an edge with a 20 degree grind. It would likely just chip out or worse.
This was fascinating. In woodworking tools I run a micro bevel for this exact reason
This is great information. You do a great job explaining what you know and how to apply it. I’ll be changing the angle on my cutthroats for sure. 👍🏼
Great video! Probably the most informative single bevel video on TH-cam
fantastic video! very well explained and great demonstration!
You rock dude. Love your channel
Really appreciate your insight. Very helpful
For those arguing over 32 vs 35 degrees its like splitting hairs.
Metallurgy, specifically what temper process, how tightly its controlled, and what specific alloy its tailored to is what really matters. The edge should be as sharp as reasonable without denting or curling on a full-pass through on bone hits. Not cinder-block brick hits, Bone. Some steels do great with 25 degree edges, some need 35 degrees to hold up. A lot of people like stainless, but the best rust-proof stainless steels are terrible for tempering, hard impact and edge retention. You would be amazed what 1060-1080 carbon steels and the common leaf-spring steels are even better. (They make axes and machetes out of that stuff, and they hold a keen edge day after day chopping wood).
By far the best video out there on sb bhs. Thank you!
Good info I was about to order some heads I’ll have to keep n eye on that angle 📐 thanks
Very helpful video. Thanks.
GREAT video... Just about to sharpen the new VPA single bevels.- turned out when you measuring them they are almost 38 degrees.. So about to reshape them to 32 degrees..
Great artical and still have the magazine. It Was one of the reasons I switched to SB heads.
I use s110v mixed with D2 to make all my broadheads. They are very easy to sharpen
Great insight! Thanks!
I'm thinking I like 35 degrees!
yes, 32 to 35.
Me too!!!👍
I am a custom knife makers 21 years now
Appreciate this a lot thank you!
Awesome information!! I was looking at getting cutthroat broadheads, now I know how to make them better 😏
Very informative 👍👏
Very informative! What are your thoughts on the Kudupoint heads as far as the single bevel angle they use, the quality of steel and out of the box sharpness?
th-cam.com/video/KD0itK5j_CU/w-d-xo.html
I have watched tons of your videos over the years, i don't know how i missed this one...My son and I will be switching to single bevel heads this year, in your opinion what sharpness angle is idea for rotation and edge retention. Thank you for creating these videos!
Great video…. Is there a broadhead you recommend for a single bevel in a 200grn?
Damn so do you think the Tuffheads with the 20 degree bevel will have problems with edge retention?
It may but its so easy to fix. I show how in this video. th-cam.com/video/pkhWn10dfh0/w-d-xo.html
great post
Great video.
please please please! Check the sharpness on a grizzly stik samurai overkill 200
i wish you would have used your wood dowel on the new wider edge for comparison sake.
I shoot cutthroats. Would you suggest sharpening a micro edge that is steeper than the original angle or would that not matter?
yes you would want our 35 degree guide.
Where can I buy the 32 degree sharpening guide you used in the video? Is there an 3D printer file I can download?
staysharpguide.com
Do you think 80lb draw with Ironwill broadheads is to much?
if you are comfortable and accurate at they draw weight, I dont think "too much" is a unit of measure. Can there be too much penetration with an arrow?
What are you hunting?
Wished I had saw this before I bought my cutthroats...
When you are changing the bevel of the edge (from 20 or 25 degrees to 32 or 35 degrees), I assume it takes a while at a rougher grit. Am I correct?
What grit do you use for that change the bevel stage of your sharping?
I assume you don't worry about taking the burr off until you have reached the new bevel you want (since you will have be building a big burr the whole way to that bevel). Am I correct?
start with 240 grit and stop when you get a burr. Break that burr off with 240. Then use 400 until you get a 400 grit burr and break of that burr with 400. Repeat at 800 grit, 1200 grit, 2500 grit and finish with buffing compound on cereal box cardboard.
I could do this with my Tuffheads right? Hone a 35° micro bevel off the 20° factory edge?
Thanks
Should have bought the iron will sharpenong jig instead of the cutthroat jig...
No you would have wanted the 35 degree guide, Not the 32 degree guide.
@@innovativeoutdoorsman5067 might have to try an exchange
Very informative and great concept. I thought about putting a small bevel on the opposite side as well. That way it would have the double bevel integrity, with the single bevel rotation.
DO NOT put a bevel on the back side.
No knife uses a 20° inclusive angle. None. Some use 15° per side, but that's only for light use knives. Anything with heavy impact or high demand uses a steep angle. Broadheads should use at least 30°, probably more depending on the steel choice. S7 needs 45° or it'll roll over if you look at it wrong. Micro bevel for the win for those shallow edge grinds.
Ashby bowhunting foundation has data on several hundred shots through buffalo hide and bone with grizzly single bevel broadheads having 25* bevel and no issues with edge damage. IIRC, plain ol 1075 carbon steel 52 Rockwell.
@@TheJustinJ A main bevel angle of 25° will work fine with that combo, but that's it. It won't work amazingly and it won't blow your socks off.
Better steel, better heat treat, and the last ~20 thousandths of an inch ground 10-15° steeper. The difference is that after the shot you might not need to sharpen it at all.
Lots of knives use a 20 degree inclusive angle. I have at least 3, It's just that they are very high-end handmade japanese chef knives both single and double bevel with very hard pure carbon steel( hitachi white #1 @ 65 rockwell).
@@jonbrown9490 I was under the impression they were more like 30° inclusive. I've seen people regrind a Spyderco paramilitary to 20° inclusive and micro bevel to just over 30°, but I don't consider what one guy goes in his garage to be a standard.
@seanyoung1875 Sure, some are around 30 degrees for sure...my kanetsune deba is. I also have an Aritsugu petty knife that has an asymmetical 15/5 grind and a Ashi Hamono gyuto has the same 15/5 grind. I will agree that you're probably not going to see a knife meant for "rougher" use that would have or even hold an edge with a 20 degree grind. It would likely just chip out or worse.
So basiclly you've invented a tanto edge single bevel broadhead. You're welcome.