Cutthroat Broadhead sharpening (Improved method)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 พ.ย. 2021
- If you want a stronger edge and want to spend less time sharpening your single bevel cutthroats (and other single bevel heads), use this method.
watch this to understand why. • Single Bevel Broadhead... - กีฬา
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I am one who reached out about this. Thank you for taking the time to make this video. A lot of questions were answered.
Thank you so much for your videos I don’t think many people realize the amount of time it takes to make these videos but they’re very much appreciated
THE MOST USEFULL SHARPENING VIDEO OUT THERE!
Thank you! I just had a pass through from a 4yd elevated shot, so the earth wrecked the edge. This was super helpful.
Thank you so much for taking the time to teach this and thoroughly explain it.
Thank you for this! Appreciate your tools and tutorials very much.
Excellent video and demonstrations.
THANK YOU!!! GREAT VIDEO! I OWN SERVERAL PACKS OF CUTTHROAT, KILLED DEER WITH THEM BUT WAS CLUELESS AS TO HOW TO SHARPEN SINGLE BEVEL. THUMBS UP!!!
Very good video. Thank you.
Good video!
So, you could graduate the duplex-bevels over the life of the broadhead as well then? Very nice.
You did not start with the extra coarse on such a damaged edge? Thanks for the info, and the Cutthroat guide, which I will be using today
Thank you for this thoughou video on sharpening the side edges on a cutthroat broadhead. What do you do to sharpen the tip? Thanks in advance.
Can this same 35” work on the classic Tuffhead? Many thanks, great video!
Good job
Great tip using the paper to feel the burr, I sometimes have issues feeling it with a thumb. Where do you get your plates? Would a course stone work for roughing it in? I go through a lot of paper! I have plates but there only an inch wide..thanks for sharing!
staysharpguide.com/products/5-diamond-plates-our-best-values
Why not just make the stay sharp with a larger diameter roller?? I’ve got the sharpener and am trying this method but seems like having a plastic roller of the right size to start with would be better.
What is a good test we can do to see if our broad head is sharp enough to hunt with.
What the normal life expectancy or approximate number of sharpenings on these plates?
What about the tanto portion of the tip? Doesn’t this get neglected due to the secondary bevel?
Can I do this with the 35 degree guide? Also I've found by making the edge steeper on I new head I get a burr very quickly. Can I stop at that point or do I need to develop more of a bevel?
Have you ever tried using the scary sharp system sheets?
How much sharpening is required before I start removing too much weight from the broadhead? 126gn turns to 124gn fast is that to be expected? Will it make any significant difference?
Where are you getting these factory second plates?
Is there a trick to getting the tape on the roller without it telescoping? I put 12” on the other day and it was good for 6” and then started to telescope pretty severely.
Just go slow and take care.
I get a great burr with the vpa single bevels. When o remove the burr like he does they turn tom utter knives
remove the burr with the grit you created the burr. In the final grit, (finest grit) get a burr, break off the burr by laying the flat side on the hone then give 10 light strokes to the bevel side again and break off the burr then 5 strokes on the bevel side and break of the burr then 2 strokes and break of the burr. You may still have some burr remaining which make the edge feel dull.
Is this the S7 steel, or the std?
can i use the 32 degree "for iron will" sharpening guide to do this same thing to my cutthroat and skip the tape?
No, absolutely not. It will not work with the cutthroats. Loot at the two guide and you will see the angle jaw of the fixed blade guise and NO ANGLED JAW on the 32.
Can you use the Iron Will Guide Sharpener for this?
no because it does not have an angle cut on the jaws of the guide.
On 125 cut throats with 35” of tape I did not get a double grind it appears to be pretty close to factory bevel
Any comment? I just got the 125 and would like to get at least the 30 deg bevel. Maybe I’ll use say 40” of tape and post my results
I tried this method on new heads. My bevel edge seemed to be bowed, meaning the bevel was only hitting the flat surface in the middle of the edge. Both ends of the edge were raised up. It took me over an hour to get the new bevel to go all the way across the edge. Very annoying and frustrating. Is this normal? Do I just power through it?
yes, you must correct their grind. You need only do it once. Every sharpening session over the life of the head wont require that again. I bout a dozen of their heads. It was a lot of work
@@innovativeoutdoorsman5067 okay thanks for the reply
👍🏽👍🏽
That vent completely takes me out from considering this head.
Doesn’t this change the whole design, flight and penetration characteristics of the broad head? I know it changes the weight. Why would you change the shape of a proven, and expensive product?
no, it doesnt change the whole design. It improved edge survivability. It will have ZERO effect on flight. It will have ZERO effect on penetration. This DOES NOT change the shape of the head. It does 2 things, it makes the cutting edge less apt to fail and it make the head last longer since you wont erode the head into the vent. Ive hunted with them for 8 years. Ive improved the likelyhood of using the head over and over.
@@innovativeoutdoorsman5067 so you say. I just know if I pay that much for a product I’m not going to change its design. Don’t hate, just my opinion and I would encourage anyone that watches this to think twice before they add another bevel to a single bevel broadhead.!
@@jimbruce9744 these heads are not very expensive compared to many others but price aside, this improvement is being done by many many customers and not just for this single bevel head. Less edge roll, faster re-sharpening and less chance of sharpening through to the machined vent on the blade. Win Win Win. The happy bowhunters send me photos of their kills and the great condition of the edge after hitting the dirt. Everybody is happy. That being said, you will not be mandated to improve your edges if you dont want to. You can keep the factory bevel if you like. That bevel angle had rolled and failed too many times for me so I now use the improved method and no longer have edge damage.