Hey thanks for this vid - took a flyer on it and I perceive a smoother acceleration and so far about a 10-15% increase in fuel economy! Pretty happy with that, thanks for the tip
I was on the freeway tonight and threw my JKUR down into 5th gear and hit the gas only for it to fall in its face. Did it the whole way home after that with any more than 1/2 throttle. My first thought was “130k miles... it’s gotta be the the crank sensor.” I know what I’ll be doing for 15 minutes tomorrow. Best wishes!
I cannot tell you how happy I am to have come across this video. I did not have all of the symptoms that you listed but I have been scratching my head about the erratic gas mileage and weird throttle response at low RPM and low speed that I've been getting. Just for the heck of it since it was so cheap and easy to do I changed my crankshaft position sensor just now and I'm out test driving it and getting four more miles per gallon. I am not exaggerating. The Jeep has 115,000 mi and I have done many things recently to try to fix this. Spark plugs did not help. Air filter no among many other little things. I'm not even sure how the crankshaft position sensor would even affect the symptoms that I was having. I do understand for the most part but the sensor does but never would have guessed it would have contributed so much to this fix I could go on and on. The thing just feels different in a good way. I wish there was some way I could force any JK owner to do this fix for how cheap it is and I can almost guarantee you'll feel a difference.
I am guessing that this sensor's proximity to the catalytic converter could be the problem. Even though it is shielded it is very close. I know that my Jeep spent a good part of last summer in an overheated condition, due to my wife! And I'm wondering if this is what caused the problem.
Thanks for the support and I’m glad it helped you! It’s a very common problem. It’s amazing to me that these Jeeps being as “smart” as they are won’t throw a code for this until after it literally stalls on you number times. The heat definitey isn’t helping them. But this sensor also uses crankshaft position to help control the fuel system. So it all makes sense that you are seeing a better increase in mileage! Awesome. Thanks again for the support!
It’s wild! I have said it to others in here, but it just amazes me that these rigs have sensitive computers…and the CPS can change the way it runs in a big way without throwing a code. It’s wild.
Had the same issue recently on my 2016 with only 32K on it. Same thing, no code thought it might be the throttle body or peddle assembly, but nope crank position sensor. Cheap and easy fix and makes such a difference.
It’s wild isn’t it! Wild how badly it can run and not throw a code. Eventually it will. But mine was at the point where it would shut off in the middle of an intersection or the throttle would cut and come right back at times. No codes. Crazy.
I'm far from a mechanic, but when my #2 head was on recall, I swapped out both heads and all the cams, lifters, rockers and the mileage dropped 2 MPG. After thinking about it, even before I watched this video, I decided to replace the MAP sensor, Air charge sensor and the crank position sensor when the parts come in!! I hope it's the answer to my problems!! Thanks for the video......I'm getting excited about that prospect!!
FYI dielectric grease does not conduct--it's a very strong electrical insulator. However it is purposefully highly viscous so is easily displaced by tight-fitting components--eg electrical connectors when pressed or slid together essentially mechanically wipe themselves clean of the grease in the process resulting in a strong contact, which is immediately surrounded and still coated by the grease protecting it from moisture.
Thank you for this info I always thought it was conductive. I found this and it all makes sense now. "Dielectric grease is actually an insulating material that isn’t capable of conducting electricity. It is a silicone-based grease that is nonconductive and its main purpose is to prevent corrosion on electrical connectors and creating a barrier between the metal and the elements."
@@KeepWrenchin exactly! I was in the same boat as you. And it didn’t make sense to me that it would have been conductive because then it would cause shorts between pins. But it works so well…so I didn’t question it.
Wow, what a difference once I swapped out the sensor, thank you! I wonder if changing out the camshaft position sensor would have similar benefits as well?
I’m glad it worked for you too. Isn’t it crazy that it makes such a difference? We don’t realize how badly they are running because it happens so slowly over time. It’s just amazing that it can run that far from new and now throw a code. Crazy to me. I have thought about that too. It couldn’t hurt to change them. I’ll swap mine out when I do coils and plugs in mine this winter.
Thanks for this video! I've been stressing out and scratching my head as to why my Jeep was performing exactly as you described. And yes, it is a higher mileage 2012 JKU - 250K+ Km on it. Sourcing a new CPS, right now...!
I can almost promise that is the issue. It’s amazing how sensitive these computers are…and how bad they can run in this instance and not even throw a code. Eventually it will…but this is a super easy fix on the 3.6. You’ll be amazed at how good it runs after you swap it out.
@@WarPaintOffroad Had the new sensor in since Saturday morning and so far, from what I can tell, all weird glitchy momentary "bucking" and other weirdness has not reared its ugly face since. I remain cautiously optimistic..!
I just ordered that part straight from Mopar for mine. I took the jeep to the dealer and explained the issues I was experiencing, and they can’t seem to find anything wrong with it! It’s not showing any codes on the dashboard or anything! I also told them about the smell of gasoline too! But they said they did a diagnostic and nothing shows! Thanks for the video! Hopefully this is the problem with mine!
I hope it does! It’s crazy how bad they can run and not throw a code related to this. You’ll have a better running jeep even if this doesn’t solve the issue. But it more than likely will. Let me know!
Got a 09 jeep wrangler 3.8 going to try this tomorrow get 11mpg highway no Throttle response. Have to shift from 6th to 2nd to pull hills hope it works
Thanks for the video on crank position sensors and lack of engine codes. Excellent. Just FYII: In electromagnetism, a dielectric (or dielectric medium) is an electrical insulator that can be polarised by an applied electric field. When a dielectric material is placed in an electric field, electric charges do not flow through the material as they do in an electrical conductor, because they have no loosely bound, or free, electrons that may drift through the material.... Dielectric grease will protect a connection. It seems to me, I could be wrong, but first make the connection, then apply the grease over top and around the connection. Any E field from the connection, wiring, etc, will then be sort of neutralized by the polarization of the grease molecules and corrosion will not be promoted. At least that is my guess. A lot of folks say dielectric grease is conductive. Get an ohm meter and stick the leads in some of the grease. See what you measure. (I have not done this, but have on regular petroleum grease.... high resistance measured there, I don't recall the reading atm.)
Just happened to me today, no dealers had it so had to buy one from O'Reilly's (lifetime warranty) and ordered the mopar sensor on amazon. was on the freeway and when i would accelerate it would break up a lot and felt like it wasn't getting fuel. got off the freeway and it died at the stoplight but started back up but threw a p0335, quick check online lead me to crank position sensor. Thought i would be able to at least make it home but it started getting worse in freeway traffic so a target parking lot switch over and i was back up and running. 2016 jkur 103k miles gonna order another one and two cam sensors since the passenger side cam sensor left me stranded last year so i'm figuring the drivers side will go out sooner or later.
I put sea foam in my 2009 jku.3.8L and went from 232 per full tank to 268-275 extra miles per full tank till reserve light illuminates.. and once in a blue moon to 296 miles per full tank
Thanks for the support! I’m shocked at the change. I went from averaging 13.5 mpg to 17. And that is with Ton’s and 40’s. On a heavy rig with a roll cage. Really surprising.
@@WarPaintOffroad dude that is crazy. I’m going to order the part now. Heading to Moab this weekend but will let you know how it did and if it made any difference
I have a 2010 jk with the 3.8L doing the same thing. It has 134000 miles on it. Very poor throttle response with no check engine light. I started ordering all sorts of parts Ignition coil and wires, plugs, fuel injectors, but will definitely be adding a crank sensor now to my order. Hopefully this will help.
You sound just like me bro. I used to believe that dielectric grease could conduct electricity, but it can’t. It’s non-conductive. It only helps to keep corrosion and dirt etc out. The reason it is non-conductive, is because you can’t have a situation where you are losing/bleeding current, through the grease and out.
Mopar 5149167AD. But keep in mind that is for a certain model year. So you’ll have to search more for your particular year to ensure you have the right one
@WarPaintOffroad That part number has superceded, it has AF suffix on it now. This was done because some component of that assy changed. Maybe just the O ring. Who knows.
I’m getting 14 mpg on my 2011 jeep Patriot. Anyone have any ideas why it’s so low? I changed the air filter recently and filled the gas tank. It read 190 miles when it is supposed to give me about 23 mpg at least.
I can’t speak for the 3.8. I know that all modern day engines have a crank position sensor. So it probably couldn’t hurt to try and change it, they aren’t expensive. Some engines though have it located in a spot that requires a lot of effort and time to change it. If the 3.8 is one of those engines the. It might be worth waiting until you have an issue. But take a look and see where it is. If it’s easy to swap I would.
It may or may not be the cause of that. But if you have never changed it out I would. You have nothing to lose. It might fox it. But it will definitely improve other stuff. Then you also don’t have to worry about it randomly leaving you stuck. It’s cheap and easy. I’d do it either way.
I would. It’s going to make a big difference. It’s amazing how poorly these motors can run due to that sensor and have it not even throw a code. I’m sure yours isn’t running bad. But when you switch it…I’d be shocked if you didn’t notice a change.
Hey man! So it couldn’t hurt! I would definitely try it. I know it works for the 3.6. But it very well could be happening on your rig. It’s tough to say. But I believe the crank position sensor on the 3.8 is in a different position. It will certainly improve your fuel economy either way.
Was that Crank position sensor located on the Bank 1 or Bank 2? I'm trying to replace mine but I can't tell the difference or what sensor I need to replace? Mine is showing the P0390 code which is the Bank 2 but not sure where exactly that sensor is located? Can anyone tell me where is located, I have a 2020 Jeep gladiator
So P0390 is the camshaft position sensor..in this video it’s the crankshaft position sensor. The camshaft position sensor is going to be in the cylinder head in the valve clover…but it’s strange that you have that so early. Usually they don’t go and a lot of these systems are all related. Are there and symptoms or is it just a light with that code?
@@WarPaintOffroad I have the check engine light on right now so as the auto stop light as well, they keep popping on and off, I ran the code and it's showing that it's the camshaft position sensor bank 2, I jist bought the part but not sure where is located
So my wife has the same motor in the Jeep, but not a Jeep. She has a Dodge. But yes. It got better. Not by a ton like my Jeep did, but she went from about 20 mpg average to 22.
@@WarPaintOffroad oh okay cool I’m about to change cps in my jeep hopefully works out Been also getting p0456 code you have issues a lot with that also ? I just got this jeep a few days ago
@@manny9561 I don’t. But that can caused poor fuel economy. It’s usually a failing seal on the gas cap or the purge valve. I don’t have a TH-cam about it. But it’s worth picking up a new gas cap to see if that fixes it. If it doesn’t replace the purge valve and you should be good to go.
I’m sorry I missed this comment until now. But giving it a slight twist would usually get it to come out. It’s got a rubber o ring that is probably holding it in.
Changed my crank sensor last week before seeing this video.
I’ve a ‘96 XJ. Wow what a difference for sure. 253K miles and still strong as ever
That’s awesome!
Hey thanks for this vid - took a flyer on it and I perceive a smoother acceleration and so far about a 10-15% increase in fuel economy! Pretty happy with that, thanks for the tip
Awesome!
Bro your balance bead video was 110% accurate and a complete game changer on a 35s thank you for the content
Awesome! I’m glad it worked for you! Thanks for the support!
I was on the freeway tonight and threw my JKUR down into 5th gear and hit the gas only for it to fall in its face. Did it the whole way home after that with any more than 1/2 throttle. My first thought was “130k miles... it’s gotta be the the crank sensor.” I know what I’ll be doing for 15 minutes tomorrow. Best wishes!
I cannot tell you how happy I am to have come across this video. I did not have all of the symptoms that you listed but I have been scratching my head about the erratic gas mileage and weird throttle response at low RPM and low speed that I've been getting. Just for the heck of it since it was so cheap and easy to do I changed my crankshaft position sensor just now and I'm out test driving it and getting four more miles per gallon. I am not exaggerating. The Jeep has 115,000 mi and I have done many things recently to try to fix this. Spark plugs did not help. Air filter no among many other little things. I'm not even sure how the crankshaft position sensor would even affect the symptoms that I was having. I do understand for the most part but the sensor does but never would have guessed it would have contributed so much to this fix I could go on and on. The thing just feels different in a good way. I wish there was some way I could force any JK owner to do this fix for how cheap it is and I can almost guarantee you'll feel a difference.
I am guessing that this sensor's proximity to the catalytic converter could be the problem. Even though it is shielded it is very close. I know that my Jeep spent a good part of last summer in an overheated condition, due to my wife! And I'm wondering if this is what caused the problem.
Thanks for the support and I’m glad it helped you! It’s a very common problem. It’s amazing to me that these Jeeps being as “smart” as they are won’t throw a code for this until after it literally stalls on you number times. The heat definitey isn’t helping them. But this sensor also uses crankshaft position to help control the fuel system. So it all makes sense that you are seeing a better increase in mileage! Awesome. Thanks again for the support!
no on the real this help a Hell of a lot its crazy. how better my gas millage got
I changed my CPS and it was a game changer for sure! Jeep runs fantastic now!
You are totally right! I changed out the CPS and jeep runs sooooo much better!
It’s wild! I have said it to others in here, but it just amazes me that these rigs have sensitive computers…and the CPS can change the way it runs in a big way without throwing a code. It’s wild.
I'm at 91K miles and for less than $20 dollar and 10 min under my car, spend 6:36 min watching this video,.. why not do it!... Thanks buddy
Had the same issue recently on my 2016 with only 32K on it. Same thing, no code thought it might be the throttle body or peddle assembly, but nope crank position sensor. Cheap and easy fix and makes such a difference.
It’s wild isn’t it! Wild how badly it can run and not throw a code. Eventually it will. But mine was at the point where it would shut off in the middle of an intersection or the throttle would cut and come right back at times. No codes. Crazy.
I'm far from a mechanic, but when my #2 head was on recall, I swapped out both heads and all the cams, lifters, rockers and the mileage dropped 2 MPG. After thinking about it, even before I watched this video, I decided to replace the MAP sensor, Air charge sensor and the crank position sensor when the parts come in!! I hope it's the answer to my problems!! Thanks for the video......I'm getting excited about that prospect!!
Thanks for the support! I hope it helps!
Did it fix it?
@@ElevatedVehicles it improved 1.5 mpg
@@pacificnorthwestdiggers4205 nice
FYI dielectric grease does not conduct--it's a very strong electrical insulator. However it is purposefully highly viscous so is easily displaced by tight-fitting components--eg electrical connectors when pressed or slid together essentially mechanically wipe themselves clean of the grease in the process resulting in a strong contact, which is immediately surrounded and still coated by the grease protecting it from moisture.
Great to know! I had no idea! Thanks!
Thank you for this info I always thought it was conductive. I found this and it all makes sense now. "Dielectric grease is actually an insulating material that isn’t capable of conducting electricity. It is a silicone-based grease that is nonconductive and its main purpose is to prevent corrosion on electrical connectors and creating a barrier between the metal and the elements."
@@KeepWrenchin exactly! I was in the same boat as you. And it didn’t make sense to me that it would have been conductive because then it would cause shorts between pins. But it works so well…so I didn’t question it.
Did that cuz your jeep rpm to drop as well b4 change that peace
GREAT VIDEO! I had this same issue in my 2012 with only 76k and now I run like new....
Aweaome! Glad to hear it! It’s amazing that as sensitive as these rigs are…it can run pretty terribly and not throw a code.
Wow, what a difference once I swapped out the sensor, thank you! I wonder if changing out the camshaft position sensor would have similar benefits as well?
I’m glad it worked for you too. Isn’t it crazy that it makes such a difference? We don’t realize how badly they are running because it happens so slowly over time. It’s just amazing that it can run that far from new and now throw a code. Crazy to me.
I have thought about that too. It couldn’t hurt to change them. I’ll swap mine out when I do coils and plugs in mine this winter.
Thanks for this video! I've been stressing out and scratching my head as to why my Jeep was performing exactly as you described. And yes, it is a higher mileage 2012 JKU - 250K+ Km on it. Sourcing a new CPS, right now...!
I can almost promise that is the issue. It’s amazing how sensitive these computers are…and how bad they can run in this instance and not even throw a code. Eventually it will…but this is a super easy fix on the 3.6. You’ll be amazed at how good it runs after you swap it out.
@@WarPaintOffroad I honestly can't wait...
@@WarPaintOffroad Had the new sensor in since Saturday morning and so far, from what I can tell, all weird glitchy momentary "bucking" and other weirdness has not reared its ugly face since. I remain cautiously optimistic..!
I just ordered that part straight from Mopar for mine. I took the jeep to the dealer and explained the issues I was experiencing, and they can’t seem to find anything wrong with it! It’s not showing any codes on the dashboard or anything! I also told them about the smell of gasoline too! But they said they did a diagnostic and nothing shows! Thanks for the video! Hopefully this is the problem with mine!
I hope it does! It’s crazy how bad they can run and not throw a code related to this. You’ll have a better running jeep even if this doesn’t solve the issue. But it more than likely will. Let me know!
@@WarPaintOffroad thanks for the video and tips!👌😎👍It should be arriving this upcoming week! I ordered from Mopar oem parts! I will let you know!👍
Got a 09 jeep wrangler 3.8 going to try this tomorrow get 11mpg highway no Throttle response. Have to shift from 6th to 2nd to pull hills hope it works
Thanks for the video on crank position sensors and lack of engine codes. Excellent.
Just FYII: In electromagnetism, a dielectric (or dielectric medium) is an electrical insulator that can be polarised by an applied electric field. When a dielectric material is placed in an electric field, electric charges do not flow through the material as they do in an electrical conductor, because they have no loosely bound, or free, electrons that may drift through the material....
Dielectric grease will protect a connection. It seems to me, I could be wrong, but first make the connection, then apply the grease over top and around the connection. Any E field from the connection, wiring, etc, will then be sort of neutralized by the polarization of the grease molecules and corrosion will not be promoted. At least that is my guess.
A lot of folks say dielectric grease is conductive. Get an ohm meter and stick the leads in some of the grease. See what you measure. (I have not done this, but have on regular petroleum grease.... high resistance measured there, I don't recall the reading atm.)
Glad it helped! I know. I completed screwed up on saying what it was. It’s not something I use often…thanks for the catch!
Mine is doing the same thing and I have a little more miles than you do on my 2015 jku. I am going to change it out!!
I’m sure it will make a big difference! I’m still so surprised.
Just happened to me today, no dealers had it so had to buy one from O'Reilly's (lifetime warranty) and ordered the mopar sensor on amazon. was on the freeway and when i would accelerate it would break up a lot and felt like it wasn't getting fuel. got off the freeway and it died at the stoplight but started back up but threw a p0335, quick check online lead me to crank position sensor. Thought i would be able to at least make it home but it started getting worse in freeway traffic so a target parking lot switch over and i was back up and running. 2016 jkur 103k miles gonna order another one and two cam sensors since the passenger side cam sensor left me stranded last year so i'm figuring the drivers side will go out sooner or later.
It’s not a bad idea. Glad you got is fixed quickly. It’s amazing what a difference they make.
I put sea foam in my 2009 jku.3.8L and went from 232 per full tank to 268-275 extra miles per full tank till reserve light illuminates.. and once in a blue moon to 296 miles per full tank
Good Video, very detailed. Nice Job. Mines a 3.8 but I wanted to show some appreciate for your Channel (Subscribed)
Great video. Thanks. I need to change mine!
Thanks for the support! I’m shocked at the change. I went from averaging 13.5 mpg to 17. And that is with Ton’s and 40’s. On a heavy rig with a roll cage. Really surprising.
@@WarPaintOffroad dude that is crazy. I’m going to order the part now. Heading to Moab this weekend but will let you know how it did and if it made any difference
@@Colorado4x4 I’m sure it will! Have fun in Moab!!!
I just changed mine out yesterday so hopefully it doesn’t stall out on me again 😅that is super scary!
Pretty wild right! Amazing how bad they can drive and not throw a code in most cases!
I have a 2010 jk with the 3.8L doing the same thing. It has 134000 miles on it. Very poor throttle response with no check engine light. I started ordering all sorts of parts Ignition coil and wires, plugs, fuel injectors, but will definitely be adding a crank sensor now to my order.
Hopefully this will help.
Thanks for this. Is there any relearn process once you install a new sensor? Or are you good to go? Can’t find any info on this.
There isn’t. Just plug it in and go! 🏁🏁
same issue here, no check engine light.. gonna try this tomorrow...
You sound just like me bro. I used to believe that dielectric grease could conduct electricity, but it can’t. It’s non-conductive. It only helps to keep corrosion and dirt etc out. The reason it is non-conductive, is because you can’t have a situation where you are losing/bleeding current, through the grease and out.
Yea. I’m aware. I made this video a while back and didn’t know. But it makes sense!
I could Not find the information that you talked about the s Crank sensor What is the Mopar Crank sensor Part number??
Mopar 5149167AD. But keep in mind that is for a certain model year. So you’ll have to search more for your particular year to ensure you have the right one
@@WarPaintOffroad My Jeep is a 2008 Wrangler So where and how do i find it?? can you find it for me??
@WarPaintOffroad That part number has superceded, it has AF suffix on it now. This was done because some component of that assy changed. Maybe just the O ring. Who knows.
I’m getting 14 mpg on my 2011 jeep Patriot. Anyone have any ideas why it’s so low? I changed the air filter recently and filled the gas tank. It read 190 miles when it is supposed to give me about 23 mpg at least.
Is this an issue on the 3.8L as well? For how cheap it is I wouldn’t mind doing it on mine.
I can’t speak for the 3.8. I know that all modern day engines have a crank position sensor. So it probably couldn’t hurt to try and change it, they aren’t expensive. Some engines though have it located in a spot that requires a lot of effort and time to change it. If the 3.8 is one of those engines the. It might be worth waiting until you have an issue. But take a look and see where it is. If it’s easy to swap I would.
Is there a relearn process for this? Just did mine on my 13 jku for the exact same issues...😂
Mine kinda cuts out if I get on it pretty hard going from 3rd to 4th
It may or may not be the cause of that. But if you have never changed it out I would. You have nothing to lose. It might fox it. But it will definitely improve other stuff. Then you also don’t have to worry about it randomly leaving you stuck. It’s cheap and easy. I’d do it either way.
@@WarPaintOffroad 136000 miles I sure it could not hurt to replace it.
Hmmm i have 115k on mine. I may replace it just because🤔
I would. It’s going to make a big difference. It’s amazing how poorly these motors can run due to that sensor and have it not even throw a code. I’m sure yours isn’t running bad. But when you switch it…I’d be shocked if you didn’t notice a change.
Dan, would this apply to a 3.8L also? Mine has the exact same symtoms...@themaskedjeeper
Hey man! So it couldn’t hurt! I would definitely try it. I know it works for the 3.6. But it very well could be happening on your rig. It’s tough to say. But I believe the crank position sensor on the 3.8 is in a different position. It will certainly improve your fuel economy either way.
Thanks again Dan!
@@sagoodman988 of course! Thanks for the support!
Was that Crank position sensor located on the Bank 1 or Bank 2? I'm trying to replace mine but I can't tell the difference or what sensor I need to replace? Mine is showing the P0390 code which is the Bank 2 but not sure where exactly that sensor is located?
Can anyone tell me where is located, I have a 2020 Jeep gladiator
So P0390 is the camshaft position sensor..in this video it’s the crankshaft position sensor. The camshaft position sensor is going to be in the cylinder head in the valve clover…but it’s strange that you have that so early. Usually they don’t go and a lot of these systems are all related. Are there and symptoms or is it just a light with that code?
@@WarPaintOffroad I have the check engine light on right now so as the auto stop light as well, they keep popping on and off, I ran the code and it's showing that it's the camshaft position sensor bank 2, I jist bought the part but not sure where is located
Did your wife’s jeep run better after the replacement ?
So my wife has the same motor in the Jeep, but not a Jeep. She has a Dodge. But yes. It got better. Not by a ton like my Jeep did, but she went from about 20 mpg average to 22.
@@WarPaintOffroad oh okay cool I’m about to change cps in my jeep hopefully works out
Been also getting p0456 code you have issues a lot with that also ?
I just got this jeep a few days ago
@@manny9561 I don’t. But that can caused poor fuel economy. It’s usually a failing seal on the gas cap or the purge valve. I don’t have a TH-cam about it. But it’s worth picking up a new gas cap to see if that fixes it. If it doesn’t replace the purge valve and you should be good to go.
I can’t get the sensor off it’s stuck could I put wd40 . I try to wiggle it out shit is stuck
I’m sorry I missed this comment until now. But giving it a slight twist would usually get it to come out. It’s got a rubber o ring that is probably holding it in.