actually good vid mate, idk how yt decides to show me vids, but is aight) Also 1 moment about not removing logo and small panel in the mid, i think you should spent a lil time to get them off, final results when parts done separately are much better usually
Thanks so much I really appreciate that mate! Yeah I was thinking as I was doing the job, perhaps I should just remove the logo. But all came out ok thankfully!
If your town has a specialist paint shop they will likely have the 2K clear in a spray can. Otherwise it can easily be found online. Its well worth the effort to track it down.
Yes agreed, if you can easily get your hand on it, makes a big difference and definitely worth paying a bit more for 2k if you want the best possible result!
You could have just used 2k clear on top of the base coat. It would have eliminated the need for buffing as it would match a factory finish. The nozzles on these 2k clears are far superior to acrylic versions. It would have looked even better as well.
Yes indeed, 2k will yield a better result. However for me its not sold at my local auto stores, plus I was doing this job on a car with over 200,000km so it didn't need all the top notch materials. In the end, I was very happy with the outcome! Usually thought a little buffing can improve the look of even the 2k can outcomes and reduce any minor orange peel.
Looks good, well done. Question though. Which green is the true green? The section you painted seems brighter, more vibrant green. The Green on the bottom-half of the boot seems darker, and the green on the rear-quarter panel seems to be in-between those two coloured green.
Thanks mate! Yes the section I painted wasnt a perfect match, it did come out a little brighter but the angle of the panel toward the sun makes it seem even brighter again. As for the other 2 panels, they should be the exact same green. I think over time one may have faded a little more than the other (2004 model with 230,000km) and also the different ways the light it hitting them makes them look slightly different.
I was trying to fix a little scratch for my door penal and all I did is makes the issue bigger. Now the area is getting bigger because of my poor paiting knowledge. I think I am comfortable enough to do it again after wathing your video. One question, should I sand the whole door panel? becaue last time I did it I just use the tape to square the area, turns out I can see the new layer is like a square after I take off the tape.
Glad I could make you feel more confident in having another go! One of my first paint jobs I did the same thing and ended up with a square haha. To avoid that I just tape up the surrounding panel and trim, but not any of the actual panel I am painting. Then just focus the paint on the area you're fixing, and feather out the new clear coat slightly further (than the new paint) into the existing panel. And no, not necessary to sand the whole panel but feather you're sanding out slightly from the damaged area to minimise the contrast.
@@BenFlipsCars I have checked the video and I think I have the idea what you mentioned. For example. if you have a finger sized panel that need to be fixed, you might want to tape a hand sized panel area in order to work on the finger sized area. When sanding, mainly focus on the bad finger area but also sand a bit further around that finger area in order to minimise the contrast (don't sand all the hand area otherwise it will be like we did before, square new painting). Which at the end, the finger sized area will be fully sanded and a little bit of the surrounding area, but the edge of the tape area should be not sanded. When painting, mainly focus on the fingered area as well but also paint a bit further to the surrounding area (But not all the hand sized area, the edge of the tape area should not be painted as well.) Am I right? I tried my best to use my English to explain what I understand haha.
No no, make sure there is no taping up on the panel you are repairing at all! Even if its just a small part of it you are repairing. Otherwise you'll end up with tape lines on the panel you are repairing. However on the surrounding panels that are undamaged, these are the ones you want to tape up. You will inevitably end up getting a little paint and clear coat on parts of the panel you dont want, but thats ok so long as everything is clear coated over at the end. Then you can wet sand and compound everything and the finish should all blend together
@BenFlipsCars got it, Maybe my descriptions are not good enough, I think hand sized tapping is too small for finger sized scratch. I would say 8 hands sized taping area for finger sized scratch. Like the 8 hands sized rectangle tapping, but what you gonna fix is the finger sized scratch in the circle middle. While sanding and painting, try to not sand and paint the area around the rectangle otherwise it will leave the lines. But abit futher around the circle is good for the faded affection.
I think it should be ok, maybe waiting another 24hrs and keeping it out of the sun during that time would be ideal, but the paint is already dry by that point so it should be fine!
Hey at least for this specific panel on the Territory wouldn't it make it easier to remove the panel so you don't have to worry about masking up the whole back of the car?
You absolutely could do that, I didnt check how easy it would be to do so but I guess maybe some screws hold it in place underneath? Regardless, easy panel to make since its just a rectangle
Just make sure the guy at Supercheap knows what he's doing , when mixing paint for you , last one I got was not matched right , I'm sure the bloke had no idea what he was doing , totally stuffed my job up 👍😊
Oh dam, thats a very good point that I hadn't really thought of. I guess I'll make sure to always test the colour coming out of the can before applying to the panel then. I'd hope they'd make up a new can for free if they stuffed up the first one...
Hi IV tried this technique exactly the same a sanded then polished with meguiars ultimate compound but I just can’t get the shine to come out any tips?
@@BenFlipsCars 600 then 1500 as I tried 1500 first but wasn’t doing much so lightly did it with 600 then 1500 got it smooth then polished with a rotary tool and ultimate compound but can’t seem to get the nice reflection
ah thats probably the problem, 600 is too harsh as a finishing grit. I'd go over the whole thing again with at least 2000 or 2500 wet sandpaper. After that, the shine should come out a lot more easily!
Indeed, same process with different tools. Spray gun definitely cheaper in the long run but for the odd panel here and there, much easier to just do cans. If i ever need to do a larger portion of a car then i'll consider getting the gun
Looks good. I might try doing my 96 civic roof (sedan) for a learning exercise. How many cans, would two be enough or would I need three? Don’t worry about the negative comments. 🤦♂️
Thank you mate I appreciate it! Yes, I'd say 3 would probably be enough. You can always start with 2, and run to the shop for another one if it turns out to not be enough. Only thing that'll be slightly challenging with the roof is keeping the can vertical enough that the paint comes out evenly. I'm sure with some patience it'll turn out fine! Thanks mate, no worries. When you put yourself out there its a given!
I bet the diff rear mount bushes need replacing in that Territory. To do that you have to pull whole diff out. Common problem with those, and electric windows and sagging hood lining. Shit paint and clear. Overall not bad car those old Tezzas.
Thankfully the bushes had already been replaced with the steel ones! I did the bushes on a falcon and have a video on doing it, big job, very tough to get the new bushes in, but doable. Haha yep, hood liner was sagging and had to replace some window switches to get the windows going again! Yep, good reliable engine, just wished the chassis kept up haha
If you treat the remaining clear with polish & wax it should help protect it and last much longer. Otherwise sand off all the old clear coat (as I more or less did here) and do all new clear. Then it'll last ages 👍
I had a car with this fix done and the paint lasted for over a year no problem. Long as you sand down the appropriate layers and apply sufficient amounts of new clear coat, should last a long time!
Thanks for the tip mate, yes cheaper in the long term but just for the odd panel here and there, cans do the trick. If i never need to do a whole car or something like that, then I'll consider the spray gun
To my knowledge there is no such thing as 1k base coat. The 2k clear is called that because it contains the hardener. Theres no base coats with hardener in them is there?
@@BenFlipsCars as you stated, 2k means two parts, and you can get 2k aerosols in primer, base and clear (those in Australia - i rate VG Auto Paints). Best practice is to use 2k primer, base and clear exclusively as the 1k never truly 'hardens' like the 2k does and because of this it can cause cracking and other issues later on when 2k is applied over the top. That said, there's a lot of people out there spraying 2k clear over 1k base without issues even years later, so I suspect some of that just comes down to quality of the 1k base and of course, the quality of your prep as well as primer. I painted a test panel with 2k epoxy, then a 1k gloss black, 1k metallic flake and 2k clear - over 18 months outside in the elements from frost to 30+ degree days in direct sunlight, I'm yet to see any issues arising.
The match is never going to be completely perfect, especially on a car this old. But I thought it was very close and once the finish came out right, I could hardly tell the difference!
@@BenFlipsCars I disagree. Polishing won't change the colour and it was obviously different. While it might not ever be perfect it could be much better. There can be more than 10 variations of the same colour code so going to Supercheap auto for a colour mix based on the base colour code will always give poor results as you've experienced. If you could hardly tell the difference I'm shocked.
😆 completely different huh? A 2-3% shade disparity only seen in certain positions / lighting conditions is more than acceptable for a budget conscious flip car project that was done at home with a spray can in the driveway!!! 😆 Your just being hyper critical and overzealous especially given the circumstances the question is why? It's not a Brand New vehicle he intends on keeping forever it's a CHEAP FLIP CAR that warranted a cheap repair which came out fantastic considering he's not a qualified panel beater / spray painter.
I have painted a lot of panels with 2k and 1k clear coat cans. After about 6 months of direct sunlight it starts to crack, really bad. Small stuff like side skirts I've never had crack, but top surfaces like roof, bonnet, spoiler - they all go to complete shit You need to buy clear coat with the pull tab for hardener under the can. It's more expensive but long lasting I guess for flipping the car you won't hear from the buyer again, but just know
I had a car I did this fix on and over a year later I hadn't found there to be a single issue with the job, even though the car was kept outdoors. 2k is definitely better and will last longer, so if you're doing it on a more valuable car that you car more about, defs go the 2k.
You have no idea what youre doing. Why is it all of these dodgy "car flippers" always choose Fords? Wow, thank f i dont buy Fords. Ive seen better finger painting.
If you look at before and after, its a 99% improvement.. and he did it for probably $50 in material. Better than spending $1k to a panel shop that prob going to have your car for 2-3 weeks.
Ah sorry to hear than mate, yes unfortunately once the paint gets into this sort of condition there isn't a quick fix. However if its just a bit faded, you could try some compound to see if it brings the gloss and shine back. But of course if its already peeling, don't try that!
Do you have any tips for restoring car paint? Let me know 👇
And subscribe for more on every step of the car flipping process!
Well done! Excellent effort! Excellent articulation & video production. 👍👍👍👍
Thank you mate, I really appreciate that! More videos coming soon
actually good vid mate, idk how yt decides to show me vids, but is aight)
Also 1 moment about not removing logo and small panel in the mid, i think you should spent a lil time to get them off, final results when parts done separately are much better usually
Thanks so much I really appreciate that mate!
Yeah I was thinking as I was doing the job, perhaps I should just remove the logo. But all came out ok thankfully!
Thanks for the tips. This gave me the confidence to try fixing a few bad spots on my car.
No problem mate, hope you get a great result 👍
Good stuff mate keep up the good work hope you have a few wins this year
Thanks so much! Really appreciate the comment, already had some small wins. We'll get there!
this is awesome man, definitely gonna give this a crack
Thank you brother! Hope it helps and you get a great outcome :)
With lacquer clear (6 coats) I wet sand with 1500 and 2000. Meguiars compound (very easy to use) and the gloss is amazing.
Thanks for the tip mate! Maybe I'll try a few more coats next time. And yes, Meguiars compound is great 👍
Good vid - keep them coming
Thanks mate! Just on the search for another car currently, more content on the way once I find one!
If your town has a specialist paint shop they will likely have the 2K clear in a spray can. Otherwise it can easily be found online. Its well worth the effort to track it down.
Yes agreed, if you can easily get your hand on it, makes a big difference and definitely worth paying a bit more for 2k if you want the best possible result!
You could have just used 2k clear on top of the base coat. It would have eliminated the need for buffing as it would match a factory finish. The nozzles on these 2k clears are far superior to acrylic versions. It would have looked even better as well.
Yes indeed, 2k will yield a better result. However for me its not sold at my local auto stores, plus I was doing this job on a car with over 200,000km so it didn't need all the top notch materials. In the end, I was very happy with the outcome! Usually thought a little buffing can improve the look of even the 2k can outcomes and reduce any minor orange peel.
@BenFlipsCars can buy it online for 35 bucks. One can. I live in Sydney and my car has 240000km
Oh wow, didnt realise it was that cheap! Thanks for the tip mate, next time will have to go down that route
Looks good, well done. Question though. Which green is the true green? The section you painted seems brighter, more vibrant green. The Green on the bottom-half of the boot seems darker, and the green on the rear-quarter panel seems to be in-between those two coloured green.
Thanks mate! Yes the section I painted wasnt a perfect match, it did come out a little brighter but the angle of the panel toward the sun makes it seem even brighter again. As for the other 2 panels, they should be the exact same green. I think over time one may have faded a little more than the other (2004 model with 230,000km) and also the different ways the light it hitting them makes them look slightly different.
I was trying to fix a little scratch for my door penal and all I did is makes the issue bigger. Now the area is getting bigger because of my poor paiting knowledge. I think I am comfortable enough to do it again after wathing your video. One question, should I sand the whole door panel? becaue last time I did it I just use the tape to square the area, turns out I can see the new layer is like a square after I take off the tape.
Glad I could make you feel more confident in having another go!
One of my first paint jobs I did the same thing and ended up with a square haha. To avoid that I just tape up the surrounding panel and trim, but not any of the actual panel I am painting. Then just focus the paint on the area you're fixing, and feather out the new clear coat slightly further (than the new paint) into the existing panel.
And no, not necessary to sand the whole panel but feather you're sanding out slightly from the damaged area to minimise the contrast.
Check out this video, you may find it helpful with blending the the new paint and old paint on the panel: th-cam.com/video/8Y9Jw-0dHng/w-d-xo.html
@@BenFlipsCars I have checked the video and I think I have the idea what you mentioned. For example. if you have a finger sized panel that need to be fixed, you might want to tape a hand sized panel area in order to work on the finger sized area. When sanding, mainly focus on the bad finger area but also sand a bit further around that finger area in order to minimise the contrast (don't sand all the hand area otherwise it will be like we did before, square new painting). Which at the end, the finger sized area will be fully sanded and a little bit of the surrounding area, but the edge of the tape area should be not sanded. When painting, mainly focus on the fingered area as well but also paint a bit further to the surrounding area (But not all the hand sized area, the edge of the tape area should not be painted as well.) Am I right? I tried my best to use my English to explain what I understand haha.
No no, make sure there is no taping up on the panel you are repairing at all! Even if its just a small part of it you are repairing. Otherwise you'll end up with tape lines on the panel you are repairing.
However on the surrounding panels that are undamaged, these are the ones you want to tape up.
You will inevitably end up getting a little paint and clear coat on parts of the panel you dont want, but thats ok so long as everything is clear coated over at the end. Then you can wet sand and compound everything and the finish should all blend together
@BenFlipsCars got it, Maybe my descriptions are not good enough, I think hand sized tapping is too small for finger sized scratch. I would say 8 hands sized taping area for finger sized scratch. Like the 8 hands sized rectangle tapping, but what you gonna fix is the finger sized scratch in the circle middle. While sanding and painting, try to not sand and paint the area around the rectangle otherwise it will leave the lines. But abit futher around the circle is good for the faded affection.
Can you drive the car after we buff it with compound? Or should we wait a couple days?
I think it should be ok, maybe waiting another 24hrs and keeping it out of the sun during that time would be ideal, but the paint is already dry by that point so it should be fine!
Hey at least for this specific panel on the Territory wouldn't it make it easier to remove the panel so you don't have to worry about masking up the whole back of the car?
You absolutely could do that, I didnt check how easy it would be to do so but I guess maybe some screws hold it in place underneath? Regardless, easy panel to make since its just a rectangle
They’re urethaned on lol. Be careful you don’t explode the rear glass trying to remove it
They have a tendency to break…..or just fall off by themselves!
Just make sure the guy at Supercheap knows what he's doing , when mixing paint for you , last one I got was not matched right , I'm sure the bloke had no idea what he was doing , totally stuffed my job up 👍😊
Oh dam, thats a very good point that I hadn't really thought of. I guess I'll make sure to always test the colour coming out of the can before applying to the panel then. I'd hope they'd make up a new can for free if they stuffed up the first one...
Hi IV tried this technique exactly the same a sanded then polished with meguiars ultimate compound but I just can’t get the shine to come out any tips?
What grit of wet sandpaper did you use? And how long did you polish for?
@@BenFlipsCars 600 then 1500 as I tried 1500 first but wasn’t doing much so lightly did it with 600 then 1500 got it smooth then polished with a rotary tool and ultimate compound but can’t seem to get the nice reflection
ah thats probably the problem, 600 is too harsh as a finishing grit. I'd go over the whole thing again with at least 2000 or 2500 wet sandpaper. After that, the shine should come out a lot more easily!
A good way to get the job done and learn at the same steps to do instead of using a spray gun a spray Can as a result which is good
Indeed, same process with different tools. Spray gun definitely cheaper in the long run but for the odd panel here and there, much easier to just do cans. If i ever need to do a larger portion of a car then i'll consider getting the gun
Looks good. I might try doing my 96 civic roof (sedan) for a learning exercise. How many cans, would two be enough or would I need three? Don’t worry about the negative comments. 🤦♂️
Thank you mate I appreciate it! Yes, I'd say 3 would probably be enough. You can always start with 2, and run to the shop for another one if it turns out to not be enough. Only thing that'll be slightly challenging with the roof is keeping the can vertical enough that the paint comes out evenly. I'm sure with some patience it'll turn out fine! Thanks mate, no worries. When you put yourself out there its a given!
I know its not ideal. But i love watching regular backyard dudes having a crack.
Thanks mate! Crazy just how good a result it can sometimes turn out to be as well
I bet the diff rear mount bushes need replacing in that Territory. To do that you have to pull whole diff out. Common problem with those, and electric windows and sagging hood lining. Shit paint and clear. Overall not bad car those old Tezzas.
Thankfully the bushes had already been replaced with the steel ones! I did the bushes on a falcon and have a video on doing it, big job, very tough to get the new bushes in, but doable. Haha yep, hood liner was sagging and had to replace some window switches to get the windows going again! Yep, good reliable engine, just wished the chassis kept up haha
The clear is separating from the base - this is a temporary fix, eventually all the clear will delaminate.
If you treat the remaining clear with polish & wax it should help protect it and last much longer. Otherwise sand off all the old clear coat (as I more or less did here) and do all new clear. Then it'll last ages 👍
@@BenFlipsCars The damage has been done by the UV rays of the sun.
I had a car with this fix done and the paint lasted for over a year no problem. Long as you sand down the appropriate layers and apply sufficient amounts of new clear coat, should last a long time!
Did you miss the part where it says "flipping cars" ?
If you are going to "flip cars" buy an air compressor, spray gun and a buff. Do it right mate! Cheaper than all those spray cans.
Thanks for the tip mate, yes cheaper in the long term but just for the odd panel here and there, cans do the trick. If i never need to do a whole car or something like that, then I'll consider the spray gun
1500 grit is too fine. You shouldn't go above 800 grit to ensure there is enough 'bite' of the new paint onto the old paint.
I found that 1500 worked out well and thought 800 may been too course and show through the paint / clear coat?
Do not put 2k clear over 1k base coat
To my knowledge there is no such thing as 1k base coat. The 2k clear is called that because it contains the hardener. Theres no base coats with hardener in them is there?
@@BenFlipsCars as you stated, 2k means two parts, and you can get 2k aerosols in primer, base and clear (those in Australia - i rate VG Auto Paints).
Best practice is to use 2k primer, base and clear exclusively as the 1k never truly 'hardens' like the 2k does and because of this it can cause cracking and other issues later on when 2k is applied over the top. That said, there's a lot of people out there spraying 2k clear over 1k base without issues even years later, so I suspect some of that just comes down to quality of the 1k base and of course, the quality of your prep as well as primer.
I painted a test panel with 2k epoxy, then a 1k gloss black, 1k metallic flake and 2k clear - over 18 months outside in the elements from frost to 30+ degree days in direct sunlight, I'm yet to see any issues arising.
@@BenFlipsCars Wrong mate...you can add up to 10% hardener to base coat! A definite must for interior metallic trim panels!
The colour is completely different.
The match is never going to be completely perfect, especially on a car this old. But I thought it was very close and once the finish came out right, I could hardly tell the difference!
@@BenFlipsCars I disagree. Polishing won't change the colour and it was obviously different. While it might not ever be perfect it could be much better. There can be more than 10 variations of the same colour code so going to Supercheap auto for a colour mix based on the base colour code will always give poor results as you've experienced. If you could hardly tell the difference I'm shocked.
Yeah, the whole tailgate needed to be painted at least.
Funny how your the only person who thinks it's "completely different" ? Have you had your eyes checked lately? Food for thought. @@ashluna27
😆 completely different huh?
A 2-3% shade disparity only seen in certain positions / lighting conditions is more than acceptable for a budget conscious flip car project that was done at home with a spray can in the driveway!!! 😆 Your just being hyper critical and overzealous especially given the circumstances the question is why? It's not a Brand New vehicle he intends on keeping forever it's a CHEAP FLIP CAR that warranted a cheap repair which came out fantastic considering he's not a qualified panel beater / spray painter.
The only wax u need, is for your back 😂
HAHA cant argue with that, my small amount of Italian genes coming through there 😅
I have painted a lot of panels with 2k and 1k clear coat cans. After about 6 months of direct sunlight it starts to crack, really bad.
Small stuff like side skirts I've never had crack, but top surfaces like roof, bonnet, spoiler - they all go to complete shit
You need to buy clear coat with the pull tab for hardener under the can. It's more expensive but long lasting
I guess for flipping the car you won't hear from the buyer again, but just know
I had a car I did this fix on and over a year later I hadn't found there to be a single issue with the job, even though the car was kept outdoors.
2k is definitely better and will last longer, so if you're doing it on a more valuable car that you car more about, defs go the 2k.
Promote your Chanel with clips on TT Ben
Beat you to it Charlie! TikTok is defs unreal with its organic reach 👍
😂
As soon as i seen duck tape i moved on...
Haha unfortunately I was out of masking tape! And it was gaffer tape!
Either it works or It doesn’t, the man’s not running a panel shop, it’s DIY, who cares
🦆tape 😂
Duct tape, duct because it’s used for ducting.
No ducks were hurt in this video...
You have no idea what youre doing. Why is it all of these dodgy "car flippers" always choose Fords? Wow, thank f i dont buy Fords. Ive seen better finger painting.
If you look at before and after, its a 99% improvement.. and he did it for probably $50 in material.
Better than spending $1k to a panel shop that prob going to have your car for 2-3 weeks.
So in other words I need to repaint my whole car.
Well thanks !
Ah sorry to hear than mate, yes unfortunately once the paint gets into this sort of condition there isn't a quick fix. However if its just a bit faded, you could try some compound to see if it brings the gloss and shine back. But of course if its already peeling, don't try that!