Love the work, one thing Id be doing or recomending is pulling the bumper off and painting inside to save the finishing sanding work, would save on materials also
Not a bad tip! As I wasn't doing the entire bumper I decided to leave it on, but if you have a nice place to set it up when its off the car, definitely can help
Much respect for the time and effort you put into making a great video and showing the steps needed for a great finish. As mentioned below, I would have waited at least a week before sanding and polishing the paint to give it time to cure, but I know flipping cars is about getting rid of it as quick as possible to get a return on your investment. Nice video, good details.
Thanks for the tip mate! The paint and clearcoats both said it was ok to do the wet sand and polish after 24hrs but to avoid any wax or paint sealants for 60 days. So I suppose the paint and clear coat can still cure even with compound on it 👍
@@BenFlipsCars it will cure but it can be more beneficial to “let it breathe”. Also compound doesn’t stay on the paint. It’s not a wax. It has abrasives that refine the finish bringing out more gloss. After you buff it off it’s essentially gone after you wipe it with an IPA. I would personally polish after you compound but that’s just my opinion. Great video regardless.
Awesome vid as always) I saw a spot with deep rust on the rigth fender, i think it would be a great opportunity to show how to fix small but noticeble and serious damages like this one to fix. Bcs its popular problem that seriously affects looks of the car imo. Id be happy to see you fixing something like this)
FWIW, with a lot of paints you can have adhesion problems sanding past 600-800grit, so you should have probably avoided the finer grits in your initial sanding unless you were unable to blend the clear coat edge without going through the color coat without going finder (which you sanded through anyway). If that was the case I would have gone back and done a quick scuff with 600 or 800, or maybe a scuff pad/scuffing paste. As far as polishing, I'm surprised that you got away with that much sanding with an acrylic clear out of a spray can. Typically it will lay down so thin that unless you have half a dozen coats on it you'd rub through. Secondly, for a quick job like this, you don't have to go that far with the sandpaper grits. I don't know about Meguire's consumer line compound, but their professional line will polish out up to 1200grit sanding scratches, I would expect the ultimate black bottle stuff to cut at least 2000, maybe 1500 grit. Going finer might make it slightly easier to do the final polish by hand but also adds considerably to your time invested and makes it more likely that you rub through the clear. If it was me I probably would have blended the clear in with 320 or 400 wet, then scuffed the whole area down with 600 (honestly, a lot of similar stuff here in the United States won't work out, clear in areas like that would likely peal and pop off and when you tried to sand it smooth like that and you'd just end up chasing your tail till you decided you're just sanding and painting the whole thing. Occasionally it will work but even if it did it wouldn't be uncommon for some area you didn't touch to pop off 6 months later, and the blended clear would fail quickly also. I suspect our emissions laws mean different paint compounds). If that did work, color and then clear, sand to 2000 and compound/wax.
Thanks for all the tips mate, I really appreciate that! I did lay down some fairly heavy coats of the clear coat ad sanded with pretty light pressure. You're right, the compound can work with only a 1200 grit sand, but by hand that will take ages. Hence why I went to higher grits to speed up the polishing process. Of course the best result would always be redoing the whole panel but I was happy with the result on this older car that doesnt need to look 100%. It looked about brand new anyway!
Nice vid dude. Do you have any videos dealing with severe lacquer peel? We're talking 2000 black CRV been sitting in sydney sun for its whole life - bonnet and roof basically just bare paint 😎
Yes I actually do! Here is the link: th-cam.com/video/Ufl_d2fSeBs/w-d-xo.html A lot of the philosophy is the same as this video. Just basically have to sand down through all the old clear coat and to an extent the old paint, then can lay down new paint to the smoothly sanded surface and fresh clear coat over the top. If you want the job to come out even better I'd sand all the paint off right down to the panel, but its not necessary so long as you get the surface smooth and remove all the clear coat. Hope this helps!
Thanks for the tip mate, my paint and clearcoat said it was ok after 24hrs to compound and polish, but to wait 60 days for waxes or sealants. I suppose always the more time to cure, the better tho...
@@BenFlipsCars there’s nothing “wrong” with it but it can fortify itself better having more time to cure. You can accidentally remove the UV blocking properties by using any abrasives too soon. Especially on clear that doesn’t have a hardener in it.
You need to look at ROI. I think I'd spend half a day doing all that for possibly a couple of hundred bucks extra if flipping the car. If youre keeping it then fine.
Absolutely mate. It wasn't exactly worth it on this specific car, but it was a good opportunity to make this video hence why I went ahead and did the fix more than anything
Thanks mate! Yes was happy with the result, just wish I hadnt gone throught the paint at the beginning! However probably came out much better with some new paint 👍
@@BenFlipsCars I think that's a regional thing, like in the USA we would never call it lacquer unless that's what it was, it would be clear coat or just clear, but I believe in Australia and Great Britain it would be either. The stuff in the spray can is likely lacquer or enamel
BTW... You did a bodgy job on this so called "fix"! You have no idea what you're doing when it comes to painting obviously yet here you are making videos instructing other people how to do a botch job to try to scam someone. My car had peeling clearcoat so I REPAINTED THE ENTIRE CAR, I didn't do a bodgy slap up job like this!
Any tips of fixing clearcoat / lacquer peel on your car? Let me know 👇
And subscribe for every step of the car flipping process!
Love the work, one thing Id be doing or recomending is pulling the bumper off and painting inside to save the finishing sanding work, would save on materials also
Not a bad tip! As I wasn't doing the entire bumper I decided to leave it on, but if you have a nice place to set it up when its off the car, definitely can help
Guys don't waste your time prepping...wet sanding. Just sand it down paint base - clear coat...finish...
Whilst that may sound simple, that's a lot of sanding! Plus more than likely you'll end up going through the base paint at some point
Much respect for the time and effort you put into making a great video and showing the steps needed for a great finish. As mentioned below, I would have waited at least a week before sanding and polishing the paint to give it time to cure, but I know flipping cars is about getting rid of it as quick as possible to get a return on your investment. Nice video, good details.
Thanks for the tip mate! The paint and clearcoats both said it was ok to do the wet sand and polish after 24hrs but to avoid any wax or paint sealants for 60 days. So I suppose the paint and clear coat can still cure even with compound on it 👍
And really appreciate the support, will do the my best to keep providing good value content 😄
@@BenFlipsCars it will cure but it can be more beneficial to “let it breathe”. Also compound doesn’t stay on the paint. It’s not a wax. It has abrasives that refine the finish bringing out more gloss. After you buff it off it’s essentially gone after you wipe it with an IPA. I would personally polish after you compound but that’s just my opinion. Great video regardless.
@@goatedvault1070yes I probably should polish it, but happy enough with the outcome. Does the polish provide more protection?
Awesome vid as always) I saw a spot with deep rust on the rigth fender, i think it would be a great opportunity to show how to fix small but noticeble and serious damages like this one to fix. Bcs its popular problem that seriously affects looks of the car imo. Id be happy to see you fixing something like this)
Thank you so much!
Its funny that you say that as I actually have a video planned to fix just that! may be a few weeks away but stayed tuned!
FWIW, with a lot of paints you can have adhesion problems sanding past 600-800grit, so you should have probably avoided the finer grits in your initial sanding unless you were unable to blend the clear coat edge without going through the color coat without going finder (which you sanded through anyway). If that was the case I would have gone back and done a quick scuff with 600 or 800, or maybe a scuff pad/scuffing paste.
As far as polishing, I'm surprised that you got away with that much sanding with an acrylic clear out of a spray can. Typically it will lay down so thin that unless you have half a dozen coats on it you'd rub through. Secondly, for a quick job like this, you don't have to go that far with the sandpaper grits. I don't know about Meguire's consumer line compound, but their professional line will polish out up to 1200grit sanding scratches, I would expect the ultimate black bottle stuff to cut at least 2000, maybe 1500 grit. Going finer might make it slightly easier to do the final polish by hand but also adds considerably to your time invested and makes it more likely that you rub through the clear.
If it was me I probably would have blended the clear in with 320 or 400 wet, then scuffed the whole area down with 600 (honestly, a lot of similar stuff here in the United States won't work out, clear in areas like that would likely peal and pop off and when you tried to sand it smooth like that and you'd just end up chasing your tail till you decided you're just sanding and painting the whole thing. Occasionally it will work but even if it did it wouldn't be uncommon for some area you didn't touch to pop off 6 months later, and the blended clear would fail quickly also. I suspect our emissions laws mean different paint compounds). If that did work, color and then clear, sand to 2000 and compound/wax.
Thanks for all the tips mate, I really appreciate that!
I did lay down some fairly heavy coats of the clear coat ad sanded with pretty light pressure. You're right, the compound can work with only a 1200 grit sand, but by hand that will take ages. Hence why I went to higher grits to speed up the polishing process.
Of course the best result would always be redoing the whole panel but I was happy with the result on this older car that doesnt need to look 100%. It looked about brand new anyway!
I always thought those cars looked like they've been in an accident with mis matched bumpers. I would've color matched them.
Yeah I must say the green and grey was certainly an interesting choice by the previous owner. He even called it the "green frog" 🐸💀
Nice vid dude. Do you have any videos dealing with severe lacquer peel? We're talking 2000 black CRV been sitting in sydney sun for its whole life - bonnet and roof basically just bare paint 😎
Yes I actually do! Here is the link: th-cam.com/video/Ufl_d2fSeBs/w-d-xo.html
A lot of the philosophy is the same as this video. Just basically have to sand down through all the old clear coat and to an extent the old paint, then can lay down new paint to the smoothly sanded surface and fresh clear coat over the top. If you want the job to come out even better I'd sand all the paint off right down to the panel, but its not necessary so long as you get the surface smooth and remove all the clear coat. Hope this helps!
Never refine new clear so soon, give it couple weeks at minimum to completely cure before wet sanding and polishing it
Thanks for the tip mate, my paint and clearcoat said it was ok after 24hrs to compound and polish, but to wait 60 days for waxes or sealants. I suppose always the more time to cure, the better tho...
@@BenFlipsCars there’s nothing “wrong” with it but it can fortify itself better having more time to cure. You can accidentally remove the UV blocking properties by using any abrasives too soon. Especially on clear that doesn’t have a hardener in it.
@@goatedvault1070makes sense. Thanks again for the tips brother 👍
@@BenFlipsCars no problem man, keep making that money flipping vehicles!
You need to look at ROI. I think I'd spend half a day doing all that for possibly a couple of hundred bucks extra if flipping the car. If youre keeping it then fine.
Absolutely mate. It wasn't exactly worth it on this specific car, but it was a good opportunity to make this video hence why I went ahead and did the fix more than anything
Great job though
Thanks mate! Yes was happy with the result, just wish I hadnt gone throught the paint at the beginning! However probably came out much better with some new paint 👍
Lacquer peel? Cars haven't used lacquer in 30 years.
I always thought Lacquer is just another name for the clear coat?
@@BenFlipsCars I think that's a regional thing, like in the USA we would never call it lacquer unless that's what it was, it would be clear coat or just clear, but I believe in Australia and Great Britain it would be either.
The stuff in the spray can is likely lacquer or enamel
never ever use 1k clear ...
I wish 2k was easy to get around here! 1k comes out alright tho with wet sanidng and polishing after
Can u do my car?.😂
Haha well hopefully with this video, you can do it! Let me know how you go mate 👍
Front of the car looks like an angry Karen
Mate your profile pic says is all bout that comment 💀💀 poor territory
Lacquer...
BTW... You did a bodgy job on this so called "fix"! You have no idea what you're doing when it comes to painting obviously yet here you are making videos instructing other people how to do a botch job to try to scam someone. My car had peeling clearcoat so I REPAINTED THE ENTIRE CAR, I didn't do a bodgy slap up job like this!