Bi Wiring, Bi Amping What is it?
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ส.ค. 2024
- Hi Everyone!
Today I talk to you all about Bi-Wiring and Bi-Amping, what it is, why we do it, and different configurations and possible setups.
Soundline Website: soundline.co.nz/
Facebook: / soundlinenz
Instagram: www.instagram....
Bi-wiring is worthless.
Wrong, have you even tried it. Made a difference to my Polk ATI 5As because it’s been designed for that purpose with the crossover inside notable separation of the lows and highs, soundstage and better mids. But you have to buy ready made bi wiring cables, I recommend WBC Worlds best cables from different manufacturers cables. Amazon shopping has all your needs.
i had normal connection 1 wire for right 1 for left. took out jumpers and replaced with quality speaker wire. connected + to high freq - to low frequency. what a difference my 53 year old ears could tell. this small change didnt cost me a penny ! many thanks you just increased my listening pleasure
One of the best videos on bi amping, quad amping, bi wiring., Passive vertical bi amping. Awesome
More current when bi-wired? That's a load of nonsense as is the statement that the amp 'won't have to work as hard'.
The real reason at 9.47 . ...so you can connect expensive speakercables...
i love how this is incidentally an argument for what meridian do. the final step is to digitally separate the low and high frequencies send only that signal to the appropriate driver. then amplify that frequency with an amplifier that has the specific characteristics to most effectively move the driver. most if not all of the logic here but without the audiophile lego we all enjoy so much. 🤣🤣 the problem with this approach is that we dont get to tinker with our systems which is what we secretly want even if we dont admit it. there's nothing quite like a critical listening session over a few glasses of a good wine when you've just changed the spikes on the speakers your listening to. OMG Anette Askik sound like shes here with us!!
JAMES! So happy to see you in videos - lost track of you after the Car Audio store closed!!!! I literally yelled loud enough my kids came and checked on me when you popped on screen!
Thank you so much for showing how to bi wiring, I always wanted to do it but I was afraid I could damage my speakers or my audio receiver, I also didn't know how was the right way to do it. Thanks!!!!
I don't believe he understands what he's talking about, IMO. The engineering of it. The only reason to bi-wire is because all wire systems don't sound the same and you can get into the nitty gritty of voicing your system. You're using wiring as a tone control, and that's fine. You do reduce resistance, but that's not going to really affect the sound per say and only nominally the ability of your amp to deliver power. The statement about delivering tremendously more current is nonsense. Once the gauge doesn't get in the way, in most cases it's 6-12 awg, it's the relationship of the amp and speaker. Period. If you run 2 runs of the same wire from the same amp, you'll not experience a significant difference. Use, say Kimber on the bottom and Audioquest on the top, that's voicing. Bi-amping will give you more headroom, but it's not a linear relationship of watts per DB and an expensive proposition. There's nothing wrong with any of it to try, but understand the engineering.
One other issue is I believe if you use different amps the wattage of the two can be different (higher wattage for the woofer and lower wattage for the tweeter which doesn’t need the higher wattage) but the gain of the amps need to match.
Bi amping is good too on avr. When we use stereo mode more power goes to the front towers and use 4 power ends and do bi amp. Just need put on bi-amp on software. It works good on budget speaker towers too. But best is on 3 way crossovers
Thank you very much for your video, time and patience to share your wisdom. My English is not that good, but the way you speak I was able to understand everything you said. Thank you from southern Mexico
English is my 1st language, and I still couldn't understand! I'm gonna bi-amp today and see if there is an impressive difference. it's been forever since I've seen this video did he ever show how?!?
You can also divide 16 by 4 you can use rip-cord or you can use welding wire, just keep in mind that the copper on the amplifier PCB or the wiring inside a transistor are less than 1/100th of a mm.
Inside the transistor is not really wire. The transistors are generally doped silicon. The resistance and capicitance of your wires will make a difference to the impedance seen by the amplifier, which in turn affects your sound. By how much, that is subjective. You wouldn't use very high resistance cable though, just like they don't use high resistance cable to send mains power to your home. The losses over the cable would just make it very inefficient.
Or maybe some left overs from power utility company.
I've watched innumerable videos about cables, interconnects, etc... This the first time I've ever heard a peep about the "bridges" on my speakers' binding posts! Thanks for adding that little comment. I've since "searched" and have found a little more info. Such an area of neglect with all these other discussions taking precedence. Thanks!
That's because it is pure snake oil.
Awesome video, the best one so far about bi wiring. You should do more videos mate, very informative. Thanks again.
Thankyou for not only clearing this up for me but also showing how to do it😊😊😊
Bro I saw you in a red Holden the last time, man of many talents you are 👍
I use jumper cables for my Bose 901 speakers with a 100 watt radio shack PA amplifier. Sounds amazing!
I can't describe how much this has helped me understand this.
Then you really need to go elsewhere where it's explained properly.
Cleaning off the crud that had collected on the metal jumpers would have improved the connection. A contact cleaner used regularly would work wonders if you use spade rather than banana plugs.
works the same with all connections , reason putting in a different cable makes a difference , you just cleaned the contacts :-)
Each speaker has to have its own crossover for roll-off. Passive or Active if your amp doesn't have separate tone controls for A/B so the speaker doesn't put out frequencies beyond its optimal output plus you need a switch so your crossovers work in concert with each other if you should only use one amp with two channels or two mono blocks.
thats rite mate how can the speakers separate the frequency's with out a cross over ,,,ya need thr 80000 speakers,,lol
i never heard that so does that mean the full range is being sent to the drivers but they are ignoring the frequencies outside what they can play? i always thought that the signal being split digitally first would be optimal like the meridian designs but i have heard stuff that i thought sounded better than meridian too. TBH i think there is no end to this and i have to learn to love my stereo it cost me 20k! its enough. i am enough hahaha
OK, I must first say thank you very much for this video! You answered questions that I've had for years and made me realize that I did a dumb thing! Not only that, but after watching your video and being re-educated, I applied what I learned and it's like I just got another brand new pair of speakers for free! LOL
As an audiophile since about 1978, (and I still am). I've never had any speakers that had bi-amp connections until about 1.5 years ago. That's about when I bought my very first pair of Klipsch speakers, (it took that long because I couldn't afford them for most of my life).
I need to mention a few things about the way I have some of my system setup before I go on. I have an analog component system and my 'centerpiece' is my Mac MC 2105 power amp. I run all my speakers through an OSD SSVC6D speaker controller, which not only switches each pair of speakers on or off, but also boosts/cuts the volume in 10% increments, passively.
I use it to handle the speakers I have in two different rooms. One small room has a pair of small speakers and a 50W powered sub-woofer. However, in the room where I spend most of my time, I have a pair of Klipsch and a pair of Onkyos and they're backed up with a 100W Klipsch powered sub-woofer.
So the main listening room has 4 speakers and stereo sound. When I bought the pair of Klipsch speakers, I read the manual but I guess I totally misunderstood the reason for the 4 speaker connections in back of each one. They came with the gold-plated metal strip connecting the 2 red speaker jacks and the 2 black speaker jacks just as you demonstrated in the vid.
I never connected the speakers until after I read the manual. In short, I thought the manual was saying that I should leave the strips ONLY if I was going to connect additional speakers in a series configuration. Hence, I removed the strips and plugged my cables to the lower red and black jacks!
I never even thought to try them any other way. The Klipsch sounded good but I always thought that they were just better at handling the lower octaves/frequencies. The pair of Onkyos I had (and for which only had two speaker jacks), seemed better at handling the 'brighter octaves.
Because both pairs are in the same room, they worked out well and still do. However, after I watched your video of course, I realized that I was NOT supposed to remove those strips. Instead of putting the gold plated strips back in, I took your advice and jumped the 2 red jacks and 2 black jacks with 12 gauge speaker wire.
Anyway, there was a huge difference in the sound because now the entire speaker system within each Klipsch enclosure was in effect! The high frequencies and low frequencies were all working together and sounds great! I still have the Onkyos running to better fill the room but I want to thank you for "fixing" my speaker system!
Rich
My friend had an old speaker that had a crossover problem, he also didn't realise when the tweeters were not working. Maybe it's a getting older thing?
Very good video, I now understand more clearly as to how speakers and Amplifiers work. Thanks.
It appears to me in this comment section there is a lot of people talking a lot of technical talk but what they are saying shows how little they know about amps, speakers, wires, bridges and bi wiring and what it does to your speakers and amp and how your amp sees your speakers ohms and power delivery and load.
OUTSTANDING JOB LAD.- Johnny, NY USA
Happy New Year Dear Chap. You’ve the most thorough demonstration I’ve seen in my search for HIFI Knowledge, as someone just being introduced to the technical side of sound equipment. Keep up the good work. God keep you.
I would like to see what the difference in listening would be. Post another video with a you giving a quick listen to each configuration and sharing the results.
How about taking some measurements with smaart or a similar analysis program and calibrated mics
ZERO !!!
the longest ad i've ever seen.
You don't need to use Kimber Kable :-)
thanks a lot - SUPER thorough explanation :)
Reasoning for the jumpers was to drop ohms so amp would produce a higher wattage output.
the jumpers make the speakers full range,,or passive without jumpers you can separate the highs and lows,,it has nothing to do with making more power
Thanks for posting… now I understand..🙂🇬🇧👍
Excellent review...I can't belive some TH-cam audiphile reviewers say it doesn't matter...🙄...
Excellent video. Very informative.
Recently I m using audio quest 14 gage pure Cooper on a biwired mode pure clean sound and Dynamics don't need to buy expensive cables
It certainly looks good, I have good hearing I have spent hundreds in by wiring and by AMP Ing.By amping is certainly better than by wiring and even then I couldn’t hear any difference.
Exactly. This whole business is psychoacoustics going the wrong way.
Audiophiles : Using the jumper bars on speakers is bad!
Also audiophiles : uses tiny relay switch to route audio for speakers A or B. Out of sight, out of mind
Hi, the video was very informative so thank you. I have a question; I have biwire cable two are solid and two are stranded which type should I use for the H and M Frequency? Thanks
Hi Andy, I myself would probably use the stranded on the HF for extra detail, but I think the best thing for you to do would be just to try both ways with a high quality version of a song you know well and just see which way you prefer for your listening enjoyment.
Thank you so much for your time and consideration in your post. You explain it all so clearly I will try your tips using two amplifiers. I look forward to seeing another presentation. Later
why would those jumpers "deteriorate" the signal? 2 inches of pure copper from HF to LF do not really make a significant difference in terms of signal transfer imo.
It's just a mental thing. Also, it's pretty hilarious he says that inch of copper is the weakest link because it deteriorates high frequecies but they still have the connectors on the low frequency inputs.
arpeemac , Electrons flows on the surface of metal and that is why stranded wire can carry more Amperes than solid piece of metal. Maybe that is a reason.
A lot of money wasted on expensive cables in this video. You might be able to measure a difference, but the chances of being able to hear a difference are between slim and none. Any decent speaker wire, multiple strand, 12ga or larger will sound the same to 99% of the population.
Those little flat jumpers between the speaker input terminals are short, wide (a lot of surface area) and have virtually no resistance.
This guy is a salesman, probably working on commission. But if you have the money to spend and it makes you happy, so be it.
@@Smedleydog1 I fully agree that most people (like me) will not hear difference, and any good quality stranded wire might do (I don't buy expensive for sure), but this "large" piece of metal has a lot of wasted surface. This piece of metal has surely less surface than equivalent mass stranded wire. Of course I am not saying that this salesman is right, I am saying he might be.
@@czakolo Without using the math that I haven't used much since school, I would say they are about the same surface area on both sides of the jumper as 12 or 14ga multiple strand speaker wire. I have them on the back of my Klipsch speakers and using a VOM, the resistance is 0. Also in the video he mentions that speakers costing thousands a pair that use the flat metal jumpers. I still think that it's marketing hype.
Good illustration of the physical connectivity of bi-wiring, however, you failed to mention one of the key reasons why there is so much difference to a standard two wire set up. Despite the connections at the amp being common, the signal travelling down each wire is not the same. The HF wire only carries the high frequencies and the same for the low frequencies. If you don't believe, me put an oscilloscope across the wires.
This happens because the crossover elements in the speakers are still doing the job of filtering out the unwanted frequencies for each set of drivers. This means that the cables are not carrying as much current and also there is less crosstalk between the HF and LF in the system.
In my own set up I had a pair of 5m cables. As the amp was now located between the speakers, I decided to bi-wire and I could do it without having to buy wire! There were four potential improvements. First, cables half the length. Second, removal of the plate interlinks. Third, double the amount of cable for carrying the same total current. Fourth, reduced crosstalk due to frequency separation. Result was a stunning improvement in the detail levels, stereo resolution, bass definition, I could go on.
If you have speakers with this capability it's an essential upgrade.
if you are biwiring then the signal will be the same at the speaker end. since its the same source. the signal is exactly the same on both sets of ends.
unless you have some sort of filter somewhere on the cable.
if its bi amped or active then yes there will be a difference.
You're right, it would need a filter, however, there is a filter; the crossover. Just because you're bi-wiring doesn't mean you remove the crossover entirely, each drive unit retains its filtering elements. Passive bi-amping also still relies on the crossover in the speaker. In an active configuration, the crossover sits between the pre and power amps, of course.
@@markcarrington8565 yes the crossover is between the cable and the driver. the signal at the end of the cable is the same is what i'm saying. you said the HF wire carries only highs and vice versa for low even being a common connection at the amp end.
that's not the case unless its actively done at the amp in which case you would need 2 separate pairs of cables, HF AND LF.
bi-wiring carries the same signal to both sets of cables at the speaker end and as you say the crossover does the filtering. there is no HF AND LF in bi wiring as such, just two pairs of cables at one end.
chris198004 , I suspect you will not be convinced by anything I say, however, I will attempt to explain it better. Between the speaker post on the amp and the terminal on the cone is a continuous circuit made of speaker wire and a filter, with elements appropriate to the driver in between, typically a capacitor on the HF side and inductor on the LF side. This filter does exactly what you expect, it prevents current from flowing at frequencies that would damage the driver. It does not matter that the filter happens to be mounted close to the cone, it filters the signal in the whole cable between speaker post and drive unit.
The only common element between the two wires is the potential difference, or voltage at the speaker post, which is the same. To drive a speaker, however, you need current to flow and the crossover elements on each wire ensure the two sets of wires only carry current appropriate to their driver cone.
@@markcarrington8565 i totally get that mark. im well aware of how a crossover works.
all im saying is the cable itself has no change in signal from one end to the other which is what you said! you stated that the cable has different signals for HF and LF on a bi wired setup. that is not the case. I quote " Despite the connections at the amp being common, the signal travelling down each wire is not the same.The HF wire only carries the high frequencies and the same for the low frequencies. If you don't believe, me put an oscilloscope across the wires"
that is simply not the case, if the amp end is common then the other end carries the same signal BEFORE entering the crossover network. no matter how many ends are on that one cable. YES the CURRENT carrying capacity will be lower due to splitting the cable however the audio signal will be the same. im talking about the cable itself BEFORE it connects to the speaker and crossover. i believe that your first statement was about the wire not speakers.
Trust me I like good audio, but the whole biwiring thing is so overrated, and it could be proved with a blindfold listening test.
You do need a separate crossover for each speaker in the cab for roll-off so each speaker doesn't go beyond its optimal range, this makes the difference.
@@MrBrymstond I could see how that would make a difference.
@G Guest the little bridges... let you do the A B testing :-)
Awesome tutorial about bi-wiring and bi-amp configurations. Never seen a video this much content in them..
Too much content! Come on now!
Good info.
Penultimate = second last.
Only thing that makes sense and it's worth the extra copper actually bi-amping or AKA runing active
You don't need seperayte amp decks to bi amp. An 4 channel amp in the same deck has 4 amplifies with in it and can bi amp 2 speakers
Great video. Very clear and concise
So awesome and thank you so much now i completely understand Bi-Wiring... but what on earth is the brand and model of that beautiful amp (the big one :-) ) again totally good and informative video so even i understand it ;-)
Accuphase.
If you can truly hear the difference you're a better man than me , sounds like it's way over-kill for "maybe" a slight gain in audio purity and not to mention the crazy cost . Your ears will never notice
Excellent video, loaded with info. The only thing I didn't see was using selective wire type for high frequency and low frequency. Louis
With good enough speakers you can actually hear the difference different qualities of speaker wire make so some people invest in higher grade speaker wire for their high frequency connections for increased clarity.
Nice video. I would not normally bi wire but I will try it to bypass the jumpers.
Thats the idea. Try it, see if it works, if it does then great, if it doesn't, oh well it was a fun experiment.
This guy gets it.
If you have speakers that are biwireable but you only have one set of speaker wires and have the bridge plate in place. My question is if it is better to connect the one set of speaker wires to the low-frequency or high-frequency posts? I have always connected to the low-frequency post given that bass response requires more power than treble, so, my thinking is any reduction in signal strength going over the bridge plate should have less of an effect on the treble than on the bass response. Also, I noticed in the video you showed two speakers that were biwireable but only had to connections, not four. In both cases, you had the speaker cables connected into the low-frequency post. I understand that the Monitor Audio Platinum speakers had the cable connector vs the bridge plate, but the others did not and you were still connected to the Low-Frequency post. Given your comment on lost fidelity going over the bridge plates, why aren't you connecting the speaker cables to the high-frequency post instead of the low-frequency post?
Its a little bit of a 50/50 toss up. connecting the wires to the low input posts gives better bass response but sacrifices a small amount of fidelity that only experienced listeners can hear. Connecting to the highs posts gives that fidelity back but on thirsty speakers that like a lot of power can reduce the strength of the bass. Most of the time (for most listeners), it's not going to matter what posts you connect to so I usually dont take notice of which ones I use. When you're demoing speakers to someone who could hear those differences, I would be much more likely to bi-wire them anyway to prevent any potential loss of any kind.
A good middle ground would be to connect the + wire to the + highs post and the - wire to the - Lows post.
Soz, i hate to be grammar Nazi but penultimate means second to last (ultimus means last). i think you meant to say Most Awesome or simply eye-wateringly expensive.
I read an audiophile review of component cables and speaker cables . standard to high end difference (carrying the same current) was an average of 7%.
Yes i have also thrown away those plates and connected my speakers manually.
I wonder if the Master Ropemakers of Chatham weave these cables.😊
Thanks for the great video. Very useful information.
Great video, I’ve been Bi Amping my Castle Harlech for years with Audiolab power amps but would love to try x4 mono blocks to hear the difference!👍🏼🍻
if you are usnig one pair of cables, isn't better to plug them into the top section, as the tweeters are more sensitive? you had them plugged in the lf section...
Bi-wiring : a way to spend double on cables
Bi-amping : a way to spend double on cables and double on amplifiers
There could be a benefit to bi amping if you want to change levels of bass driver to mids/tweeter perhaps. Or if you want to flavour the sound with some non standard amp
Bi amping would also increase or double the power.
@@ekimandersom4478 so just get one amplifier with more power why would you buy 2 separate amplifiers,, you use additional for a 2''3'''4' way system ,,,,but you need a cross over,,then each amp is for a specific band of frequencies,,am i missing something
your rite rennie love the way you put ,,the hole thing makes no sense at all
Bi-amping means the mid/hi pack is receiving a pure and independent signal separate from the bass at the head of it's cross/over and not in conjunction with the bass cross/over network. This yields a significant difference, auditory and in speaker performance. The greatest advantage being if the network is electronically divided.
Bi-wiring yields NO difference over just running a single pair into the entire speaker. Still, I prefer to wire this way with separate connectors on both speaker and amp. Lower resistance gauge, and separate inductance in each wire. It's the best connection you can make whether you can hear it or not.
@@keithmoriyama5421 thanks keith,, this is new to me,i have a marantz 2252b i think its great x-cept for the speaker connections,,they used the spring push in type,,,they suck,,i want to change to those newer banana jacks,they look good ,,but maybe you know a better way??
great video amigo, thank you
Is there any benefit at all to running two sets of cables to the high and low frequencies of the speaker in bi wiring formation if my integrated amp has speaker A and speaker B output (so speaker A feeds high and speaker B feeds low). I have had completely contradictory advice on this from two separate dealers.
For clarity - It is not an AV amp with specific bi amp terminals but a regular (good quality and high power) integrated amp with two sets of speaker outputs.
Many thanks in advance.
You need a camera stabilizer, mate. Watching this made me seasick.
I must be very good . I can hear the wire before I turn on the amp!
Worth a listen great sales man but is all he's talking about factual I think I'm going to buy a set of diamond incrusted jumper blades definitely going to make sure they cost than two thousand pounds😅
Penultimate means next to last.
Gday mate. Good instruction
The obsession with the shorting plates between the tweeter input terminals and the bass input terminals has reached alarming proportions! The manufacturers of speakers know full well that the material these are made from is as equal to the job of conducting the current between the terminals as the printed circuit board tracks that are found on the crossovers inside the loudspeakers. The idea that replacing these short pieces of metal with cable, however 'good' quality it may be (and usually a good bit longer!) is absurd. Surely if this where true, then it would matter whether one plugs into the top or bottom set of terminals, as, when plugged into the top ones the shorting plate only carries the bass signal to the woofer filter, and conversely, when plugged into the bottom set of terminals the shorting plates only carries the treble component to the tweeter filter.
On the subject of the crossover filters, the method of biamping suggested is pointless, as the signal to the tweeters and woofers still has to pass through the crossover filters in each path. The only really valid biamp system is that in which the output from the preamp is fed through an electronic crossover which divides the treble component from the bass and feeds it straight to the drive units.
BTW, the idea of using two dissimilar amps for bass and treble in your 'passive' biamping system means that gain must be controllable on one of the amplifiers to be able to balance the outputs of treble to bass.
Whether it's worth splitting the bass and treble at the amplifier end (biwire) or at the speaker terminals (conventional single wired) I don't have an opinion.....I'm just fascinated by the number of videos made by, and watched, by people who haven't a clue how speaker crossovers work!!!
A company goes to all the work of making these speakers sound so good and cost thousands of dollars then they use cheap jumpers that degradate the sound to the point it can be fixed or improved with a short piece of copper wire that looks pretty.... yeah, no. Its audio jewlery and status BS. Gaurantee people couldn't tell the difference in a blind test. Your experiencing the power of persuasion and placebo effect. I do agree though aftermarket jumpers look much better.
great video......cheers man
These thick speakers cable can provide electricity to my entire town.
They're Pretty Grunty! Most of it is just lots of shielding and core seperation though. Not solid copper the whole way through.
Really good video.
What happens if I remove the bridge plates but only connect speaker wires to 1 pair of binding post?
just that section of speaker will work....either low/mid or treble...
isn't that an active crossover ,,that you can use with one amplifier is that correct
Is it worth by most Loudspeakers.. I have a Yamaha AX870 with Infinity Kappa 90 , with a Bridge at the Kappa‘s and than without and Bi-Amping ; huge different how better they reproduce the music WOW , and with same Power Level by the Amp they are a lot of louder than before.
Awesome clip 👍👍👍 I've got a question just wondering if I had a sony 7.4 AMP plus two subwoofer volume control amps sony and a pioneer 5.1 AMP would I be able to do the same thing?
Nice and informative video. Thanks for sharing.
Excellent video. Thanks.
There was NO mention of using or bypassing the crossovers in the speakers. That is the reason to bi-wire. ???????
A vid that is supposed to be about biamping and not a single word mentioned about active crossovers???
It's funny given that that's the only method that actually gives an audible improvement!
Now you’re talking
Tq for sharing,very useful
Bi wiring, using different cables for HF and LF but in the same length, should cause any problems? thought of silvers on top and copper on bottom.
Not a problem at all, actually quite a common practice to put the thinner better cables on highs and cheaper but meatier cables on lows.
Awesome!
Very useful thank you.
I feel like you were taking forever to get to the point. 5 mins just understand it’s double voice coil which allows you to run parallel or series wiring. 👍🏼
Whit bi wire connections we need to remove shorting bridges yes, but why?
superb stuff james keep it coming
Thanks Raju
This video over-killed the whole reason for using bi-amping, and having a more powerful amplifier on the woofers/sub-woofers SEPARATE from the amplifier of lesser power for the mid-range and tweeters, because when a system is driven hard as in PA rock band levels, using only single amplifiers powering both the woofer and the upper frequencies causes a distortion which will create inter-modulation or beat distortion in the vocal range due to over-driving the bass. Using bi-amplification totally eliminates this condition. For more realistic levels such as in the home stereo environment, even demanding classical music it is good to have, but not totally necessary if the main amp. is of sufficient capacity to resist this phenomenon. As far as using the the metal strips to connect woofer and upper range drivers using only one amplifier, it is absolutely nonsense that a separate piece of regular wiring will have any audible effect on the sound. Otherwise high end speaker companies would not use that, if there was any chance that something like that would degrade their product. That is SNAKE OIL garbage from such blah blah as this video suggests.
I have very bad experience from Kimber Kable 8PR speaker cable. They are too dull and lifeless and worse than even $1 per meter electrical cable used for speakers. I bought it but my money wasted completely and i thrown away that cable, so much poor it was that! I already have QED XT40 cable, they are fantastic cable with great bass and check sibilance wonderfully. But XT40 lacks clarity and detail. Now i have ordered Epic X cable and it is on the way. Let's see it's my final speaker cable or still something will be left.
What song is that in the intro? Very funky!
Why would the manufacturer include the "flat blade of metal" if it deteriorated the sound so significantly? Answer= They wouldn`t.
Why would speaker cable manufacturers go to all the trouble and expense of making intricate cable weaves (out of processed exotic metals) if solid or flat cables were just as good? There would be no need for RF coaxial cable technology, or twisted cable, if there was no degradation over a single strand wire.
@@bigpicture3 Your reply makes zero sense, and is not relevant.We`re talking about a speaker connection less than an inch and a half long. Not going to get a whole lot of signal loss in that run. What do you think the wiring is like behind those connections inside the speaker it`s self? No better than the jumper, I assure you.
@@6Commando do you know anything about "resistance" / "inductance" / "capacitance" and "skin effect", as it relates to the conduction of alternating current at all? If you did you would understand that the physical shape of the conductor and the materials it is made from have an effect on the AC current flow. www.stereophile.com/category/cable-reviews The KEF motto back in the 70s used to be "if you can't hear the difference don't pay the difference", but when you pay that much for amps and speakers, $50 bucks or more on cables is probably the best investment of all.
@@bigpicture3 Double blind tests say "Bullshit" There`s really no audible differences, unless your cables were defective to start with. th-cam.com/video/VlYjQBTx-rs/w-d-xo.html
I changed my blades to jumpers and could not believe the difference.
Teflon my frying pan has that. Does that mean my bacon sizzling will sound better when it's cooking?
You see PTFE, is not only the 3rd best dielectric after air and raw cotton, but also is heat resistant. It therefore does not distort and contaminate the joint, like PE and PVC, when soldering wires directly to components. Especially when using high silver content solder at higher temperatures to join silver plated ones.
Very well explained. Thank you!
First of all thanks for the video!! Is excelente!
So, if I use a Monitor Audio Bronze 2 series in a Yamaha n-r303 is much better to biwiring with the a+b option ?
Again... THANXXXX!
You could try it but it might not be worth it at that level.
The difference bi-wiring makes is real but it is very small and more cheaper systems usually not worth the extra money needing to be spent on speaker cable.
....appreciate your explanation here ...excellent video!,..just one question,...when you send 2 separate connections (bi-wiring) to a speaker (one set to High and second set to low frequency ) from a stereo amp that has 8 binding post ( A and B)..with 85wpc ...would your speakers get 170w each?...Left speaker 170w and right 170w??...OR 85w for the high frequency driver and 85w for the low frequency drivers...truly appreciate your help
It's basically a voltage divider circuit and the watts per speaker depends on the impedance of each LF and HF speaker. It both LF and HF have the same impedance then each would divide the current equally and thus each would get the same amount of watts.
@@kusgilb thank you,...appreciated!
Which jumpers do you propose for wharfedale diamond 225?Some say that with biwiring you have a larger amount of mid/ treble to the speakers?Is it true?What is your opinion. In case you don't like very "open or bright" sound, this could be a problem.For those who like bright sounding speakers wf 225 has a little "dark sound" but for me is a non faitguing sound.Very nice educational video!
Bi-wiring wouldn't do anything to that imo.
Bi amping of course you will need to match the levels .
If you really wanted to do anything just make some little wire jumpers if you really dislike the metal bars.
Otherwise I feel this extra stuff is for when you have too much money xD it's like making half an active speaker without making an active speaker, but costing a lot more
AC doesnt have a positive and negative, its called phase.
Mates put a lot of effort into creating the video. Very well explained.
These amp are Class A right? Plus I prefer using pure silver for jumpers, I realize they only use crap copper wire inside the speakers from speaker to connector and the speaker winding's, cables as well, but if you have the money use silver on everything and you don't want to run long cables for no reason or one meter from one speaker and eight meters to the other, you will have loss on longer cables, keep them equal and as short as possible, just saying.
Is there something wrong with my speakers ??? I couldn't hear a third syllable in the world negative.
I have already followed up few years back the same 😊
Now ended up with clipping or default bridges 💟☮️
My dealing experts well guided me throughout the same 🥰😍😘
Also
THE AUDIO PEOPLE CHENNAI ☺️
Hi kimber kable or nordost?
Why did you not do a sound comparison..... A good old fashioned listening test. 🤐
You can also just use good quality speaker cable all those expensive brands is nonsense
Just bought myself a Yamaha rn-803d amp. And om the manual, Yamaha show how to bi wire. But They use Port A and B on the amp. Everywehere else ppl use just the A Port. How is that?
Thats Bi-amping which is different to biwiring.
Thats just yamahas way of distributing a bit more power to the same speakers.
@@SoundlineAudioNewZealand no its bi wiring. The yamaha manual is rubbish anyway. Dont know why they show a and b ports on bi wiring.
@@chriss881000 No doubt to make it easier to connect 2 sets of cables - spade terminals always make worse connections than banana plugs, so one set of cables would be at a disadvantage otherwise.