What a Great teacher Paul, the difference in power needed to drive a tweeter and woofer I didn't know that. I've ordered 2 sets of the same cable to run my bi-wire set up. Didn't think of use 2 different cables best for bass & treble!!l!!! Cheers from West Yorkshire, Grant 👍
I’m a bassist and I’ve biamped for several years. I run my bass through a buffered splitter; one of the leads runs to a 500 watt class D bass head and then to a 4x10” bass cab with the tweeter defeated. The other lead coming out of the splitter goes to a Eggnater Rebel 30 that’s dialed in to using one pair (the EL84’s) of the 2 pair of power tubes for a total of 15 watts; that amp’s output runs to a 2 x 12” closed back guitar cab. The bass control on the Eggnater is turned all the way counterclockwise to cut the most of the bass out of the signal that’s destined for the guitar cab. I use the guitar side for any effects I run and if I want any overdrive or distortion, I crank the gain on the Eggnater to taste as the tubes excel at that kind of thing. I dial in the bass amp pretty much the same as if I weren’t biamping. I’m sure there are more technically elegant means of achieving what I’ve cobbled together. Still, this system has served me well over the last 10 years.
Had speakers worth a few grand UK. Tried bi wiring, bi amping and leaving them with the cross overs that they came with. And they sounded exactly the same to me.
cosawanty wasn’t the bi-amped setup louder for your system? I found my B&W System 683 front stage absolutely loves being bi-amped from the Yamaha RXV3800. Although the amp does run hotter and will auto protect with anything above -5db on the volume due to clipping after about 20 minutes. It will happily sit at -10db and blast thrash metal to all neighbours all day and night if I am in the mood
cosawanty I'm guessing you'd only really notice a difference if the amps were completely different like Paul said, one being vacuum for highs and regular amps for lows for instance.
Cyba IT no, it’s bi-amped. I have a Yamaha RX-V3800 7.1 AV receiver. Instead of having 5.1 surround sound and a second zone, it can be configured to bi-amp the front left & right speakers and also the centre and rear left/right. Front speakers are Bowers & Wilkins 683 S1. The woofers have their own channel and the mid/tweets have their own channel
I really appreciated this in-depth explanation. Usually spoken to like we’re children on TH-cam, but this was very informative. Keep the classes in session.
This is how most understand, and why these questions are asked in the first place. Paul does a fantastic job at answering them for everyone to understand.
Everytime I watch any audio science explanation I end up more confused and feeling that I know less. This explanation has been crystal clear, engaging, uninterrupted and to the point. I have vastly increased my understanding thanks to your explanation, tip of the hat to you good sir! 🎩
Going by your videos…yes, documentaries they’ll be enointed …Sir, you’ve exceeded all limits of imparting audiophile knowledge while just being neutral and non-commercial. Salute. But, your products are seemingly too expensive for guys like me. But I’ll always watch … and listen…
Audiophiles are heavy into placebos. Bi-wiring/amping is pointless unless you are going to pre-amp an active crossover and bypass the resistors and coils altogether. We used to do this 30 years ago with car audio. Gauge and quality being equal, its ludicrous to think that there are wires that are better at passing higher frequencies than lower frequencies at a level noticable to the ear. The market would benefit from attainable variable 2/3/4 way active crossovers, where we could dial-in high/low pass frequencies prior to amplification. This would also make more efficient use of resources where high power amplifiers would be reserved for woofers/sub-woofers. Then the audible difference would truly be noticeable.
True , bi-wiring may be subjective, bi-amping is more true to the ears especially with large speakers at louder volumes. Active Crossovers would be pointless as well in a regular home environment as good quality speakers have decent crossovers in them already . It’s not the quality or gauge of the wire that is making the difference, it’s the “separation “ of the two . I will never go back to conventional speakers without bi-wiring capabilities, but then again when I do my mixing in the studio, the engineers are always astounded by what I hear and what they don’t pick up unless I tell them . A blessing or a curse . . ? You tell me 😛
You are wrong! I am bi-wiring and bi-amping and now i want to bi-source too.. highs on some songs are so good while the base from Drake is solid.. i want both at the same time
Bi wiring with a pre amp / receiver with an output ( L & R ) to a power amp is good setup . You gain nothing using bi wiring from speakers A & B off of 1 amp
@@stevenjosephs9 You’re using two amp sections of your receiver, so that’s Bi-Amping, not Bi-Wiring. That’s beneficial in the sense that you now have increased headroom. An example of Bi-Wiring would be something similar to my how I have my two mains in my system set up. I have Gen 1 Emotiva XPA-1 Amps powering my fronts, on the back of the amp, even though there is only one amp section there are two sets of output terminals. With some braided 12awg (four strands = 9awg) I made, I utilize both sets of the output terminals, and both sets of the speaker input terminals. Now what does one get out of this? Well, beyond lowering cable resistance since you now have twice the wiring, nothing. So why do I do it? Because I think it looks cool.
The 5W / 200W combination will only work if you have some crossover filtering BEFORE the power amps. An amplifier's wattage is mostly defined by the maximum voltage it can produce before clipping. If you send all the frequencies into the 5W tweeter amp, it will start to clip as soon as you have 5W worth of bass in the signal.
I suspect the power amps work as a single circuitry with the speakers crossover and speakers itself. So if there is a condenser in the twitter circuitry, the amp will not amplify low frequencies. Also I suspect that real AC have their twitter with much higher impedance than for their woofer. AC overall impedance is specified for the lowest speaker average impedance, and when AC is wired into single amp this impedance difference distributes more power to woofer than to twitter. For bi-amping it makes sense to choose amp working with AC impedance for woofer wiring, while impedance requirements for the other pair (high frequencies) are usually weaker. E.g. 4 Ohms for woofer, 8-16 Ohms for the rest. And AC overall is marked as 4 Ohms.
Mr. McGown, thank you for giving a proper education on what bi-wiring and bi-amping is. I get so turned off watching these "audio blowhards" on TH-cam say bi-wiring is a waste of time because it "makes no difference." What I learned from watching you explain this is there is a difference between the two questions "is there a difference" and "does it make a difference." And that entirely depends on the audible ability of the individual listener. Yes, there is a difference with bi-wiring, but can "you" hear it? Starting with a non-expectant, somewhat skeptical disposition, I recently decided to bi-wire my B&W 3-way speakers (CM10 S2). I played tracks that were burned in my mind and knew exactly how they sounded prior to bi-wiring. Yes, I was able to discern a difference. I'm not saying it is significant, but there's definitely some difference - and it's better. But, I'm wondering if that had anything to do with the fact that my speakers have a mid-range compared to a 2-way speaker? It just seemed to me my ears were picking up better those mid-range frequencies. I could more clearly discern sounds coming from the mid-range than before. So, does a 3-way speaker make more beneficial use from bi-wiring than a 2-way speaker? Again, thank you for taking the time to produce this helpful video.
Bi wiring is not possible as the highs don't pass only through one speaker wire and not the other and vise versa. They would have to be split with a crossover in the amp to do so. Both cables will have the same signal passing through them until they hit the speaker cross over where they are filtered for the first time. It's easy to test with a spectro.
No the wire doesn't have a crossover! The crossover is still in the loudspeaker cabinet...but split completely into two separate filter circuits (in a two-way speaker) these, along with the drive unit 'presents' a frequency dependant load to the amplifier which will supply current as and when needed to the tweeter or woofer - this current travels along the wires, treble to the tweeter filter and subsequently to the tweeter, and bass/mid to the woofer filter and on to the woofer. The paths diverge where the split occurs - usually inside the cabinet...often on the circuit board of the crossover in a single terminal pair speaker. In tha biwirable speaker the two sets of terminals are bound together by plates or jumpers and a single speaker wire is plugged into either the top or bottom terminals, the split point is therefore either at the top or bottom terminals. When biwire is used the plates/jumpers are removed so the split point can be pulled back to the amplifier terminals, enabling the treble current to travel along the wire to the tweeter terminals (usually the upper pair), and the bass/mid current to the woofer terminals (usually at the bottom. The debate should be 'whether' any advantage accrues from such an arrangement, not 'how' it works! There are sights that deny it works like this.... presumably so that they can deny it 'works' at all.....don't believe the fake science, it works as I've described!
Just when I thought that this was complicated enough, OMG what people get into in this game. What ever happened to just enjoying the music? audiophiles over think things, and I am an industrial electronics tech....but I did learn a good many things here! very good explaination. So, tubes sound better on tweeters and solid state sound better on woffers, and special cables are more for the tweeters and any thick cable will work on the woffers. Bi-wired speakers are only really good if your amp is bi-wired. Thank you, very much!
So, Ideally if you have a true bi-amped and bi-wired system you don't want any crossover circuitry in the speaker. You just want the clean signal to go straight from the amps to the tweeter and woofer respectively. With that in mind am I right in assuming it is kind of pointless bi-wiring speakers that have crossovers (Even though they still are bi-wirable with 4 binding posts) because the capacitors and coiled wires will still cut off parts of the signal?
It seems to me that bi wiring to a single amplifier should be very similar to just wiring to the same crossover normally. You would be adding extra length to the single wired crossover. The difference you’d be noticing would be a shift in the LCR contribution of the cables used on each leg. The same story would fit with bi-amping. There you would also hear extra head-room and a lower noise floor. Active would probably be the best approach and the LCR of the cable would be negligible since you are attaching the drive units to the amplifiers without an intervening filter network. My thoughts are that bi-wiring and bi-amping add more wire and more amplifiers and the subjective change is nothing to do with the crossover. Perhaps single wiring with a more powerful amplifier with slightly thicker wires will give the same or, a better effect than bi-wiring to a single amplifier or, bi-amping. I think the active route justifies bi-amping and stands to be more accurate and efficient since there is less energy being converted into heat and distortion instead of sound by a filter network in front of each voice coil.
On a Marantz PM8004 I’m using speaker A terminal to wire the tweeters and B terminal for woofers on my bi-wired Quad 22L tower speakers. Although it is not technically bi-amping, is it offering a benefit? (Sounds pretty good to me)…
It sounds good because they are excellent speakers and amplifier for the money. As for any gain with biwiring using the A and B speaker outlets, there isn't any - the A and B output terminals are derived from the same output transistors, they just pass through their own switches to the terminals; it's the same as paralleling them on one set of output terminals.
I did the bi-amping, and the sound - even after recalibrating the speakers - was muddy: powerful, but imprecize bass, very harsh highs, mid was not creating any room. One cable is a shorter 2,5mm2 cross surface I used for the highs, the other one is a longer 4mm2 cross surface that I used for the lows. Is it the amp that is crappy, or the cables really have to have the same properties to do bi-amping? Of course, I removed the interconnecting wires between the speaker poles to keep the right impedance. Out of curiousity, I swapped the pairs in between high and low posts, and it didn't really do much difference, I expected hissing or lost sound due to filters of the speaker. Any tip? I have a Pioneer SC-LX88, I used the Top middle for highs, Front for lows as per the manual.
Like the man said "tweeters are gonna tweet and woofers are gonna woof". I'm going to stick with old school - one cable to each speaker and sit back and enjoy. The search for perfection costs too much and takes too long. Life is too short.
With your explanation of bi-wiring/bi-amplifying of low ang high frequencies, my question is, where do you fit the midrange sound if not for a 3-way crossover network for just using single amplifier/receiver? In my case am just using a Sony receiver connected to a 3-way crossover network (with tweeter, midrange, and woofer drivers), and the sound is loud and better in my hearing.
I've got some Bi-wirable speakers and wrongly assumed that when you disengage that metal connector between the treble and bass posts the signal just goes directly to the driver. I just thought you'd have it bi-amp'd negating the need for the capacitors and coil wires. Now I know. So I'm guessing the top-end "made for bi-amping" speakers don't have any crossover circuitry to get a cleaner sound.
Bi wiring is this connected to speaker pair a and b on the amp? Lets say the tweeter connected to pair a and the woofer to pair b? I am guessing I did not understand understand anything.
I had buy this yahama speaker wif yamaha receiver. Wanna know, should i buy the hi-end wire to connect the speaker to get best sound or else just using the wire which yamaha provided is enough ya? Thanks
Bi-amping my Polk RTi A9s for a total of 290 watts (145 watts x2) made a HUGE difference in the clarity, smoothness and sound stage across all frequencies.
I used to do series or parallel (using multiple speakers) for impedance reasons but those days are long gone (for me anyway) lol. Love woofers woff and tweeters tweet and don't forget the tweekers tweek ;-)
At last somebody that explains clearly and true story. Like you very much. BTW I am using bi-amping in all my system (for other reasons). When the Amplifier of the woofer works hard it doesnt impact the clarity of the high.I have also a pair of B&W 804, they need quite a push. I found that a simple Rotel of 5*120 is better(the difference was really big mostly in low power) than expensive stereo ( MBL or Musical Fidelity). Joe Israel
Yes, absolutely as long as the impedance works. If you have 8Ω speakers, then powering the two together presents a 4Ω load to your amp which is fine for most amps. On the other hand, if you have 4Ω speakers and pair them on one amp, then you have only a 2Ω load and that's likely not going to work.
For some reason car audio allows you to do this easier, my pioneer head unit, no built in amp, has electronic crossovers so I can set up custom crossovers/ slope and go active into each speaker, requires more Amplifiers, But it’s great for the front stage, 4 channels two for each tweeter two for each midbass, subwoofer has its own mono amplifier. Pioneer stage 4 copper chassis head unit P 99RS , One of the best piece of audio equipment I’ve ever owned.
I have 2 quad 404-2 amps which have been upgraded to dual mono power supplies. They are bi-amped into B&W matrix 3E speakers and sound absolutely amazing. Question I am probably wasting a lot of power using a 200 W amp to power tweeters. You say gain needs to be the same, I would be interested in replacing the tweeters amp for a low powered tube amp. How Can I find what the gain is on the quad 405To find a tube app that will be suitable thanks
I'm using a stereo equipment with output for mid range and high frequency speakers and another for low frequency speakers (subwoofers). Since its original speaker boxes have lousy mid range drivers and tweeters, I'm using another pair of speakers. These boxes have three speakers and crossovers each. Their mid range drivers and tweeters are very good. So I connected the mid range and high frequency outputs to them and the crossovers don't allow any of it to leak to the woofers. Audio quality has improved a great deal with this arrangement.
I truly do appreciate the explanation. However, it's always nice at the end if you could cap things off with opinion on whether it's worth the trouble and expense. For those considering getting into audiophile sound, or those that might have dipped a toe in, should this be something we're looking to do if speakers allow for it?
Michael B. - I disagree. His opinion would very easily be pointed out as snake oil sales. Let Paul lay out the information, and let us make our decisions for ourselves.
I would value Paul's opinion, regardless of the snake oil alarmists. If Paul holds back his opinions, then he has surrendered to the naysayers and trolls.
If you have speakers that are biwireable but you only have one set of speaker wires and have the bridge plate in place. My question is if it is better to connect the one set of speaker wires to the low-frequency or high-frequency posts? I have always connected to the low-frequency post given that bass response requires more power than treble, so, my thinking is any reduction in signal strength going over the bridge plate should have less of an effect on the treble than on the bass response. I am curious to know if you all agree or have a different perspective that i may not be considering.
In every reactive filter or component; as capacitors and inductors, there is introduced a phase shift between the source signal and the output from the filter. I presume bi-amping can help with controlling the phase relationship between the speakers, as there can be introduced a phase shift into one of the amps in order to cancel out the phase error between the speakers?
I was reading the instructions for my new Polk speakers. I didn't exactly realize that even if you don't biAMP them, that you can still biWIRE them anyway. What if they just took the crossover out of the speaker and installed it in the back of the receiver or amplifier instead?
5 watt amp? I thought you still needed a 100 watt amp however it would only be outputting highs so same wattage amp? cos there be crossovers active or passive.
A tweeter typically takes no more than 5 to 10 watts, sometimes more, but it's rare. This is because recordings contain very little high frequency information relative to lower notes. It's the nature of music. So even if you're playing something quite loudly, it's unlikely the highs are drawing much power.
also makes less sense to be to have separate snake-oil wires, one for the tweeter, one for the woofer, when within the enclosure itself, the manufacturer probably used the same type of wire to connect the woofer/tweeter to the binding posts, or same wire to make the voice coils, etc.. so no matter how expensive or high quality you put as the external wiring, the internal wiring is probably as cheap as the manufacturer could get away with for the particular product line.
Hi good video right now I have two PARASOUNDS 2125 models that I bi amp with for a good while now,passively .the second amp does the tweeters. They both have the same power 125watts 8olm.I do have a vacuum tube amp which is a mini one 3and half watts per channel can I use that one for my tweeters ? Not sure what the gain is .There is no outputs on that amp so it would get the signal from the parasound.
I didn't notice anything outstanding when I bi-wired many years ago, but when I tried VERTICALLY bi-amping using two stereo power amps - well, that's a whole different story. Using two NAD 2200 power amps: on the left-side amp, left channel went to the tweeters while it's right channel went to the woofers - ditto for the right side amp. The 2200s were 100 watts into 8 ohms each side, so plenty of power and headroom available.
Hi, your channel is great ! I have a bi-wire cable and just bought some speakers that have just a single-wire terminal. Now i am using it on a+b speaker outputs to single on the speakers. Is that a problem ? Thank you in advance.. Greetings from germany !
So, bi-wiring is essentially driving the woofer and the tweeter individually with the appropriate crossovers given the appropriate amplification process instead of using a 2 or 3 way speaker?
I remember reading about a Sunfire amp where it had two output sets, one a current source, the other a voltage source. If memory serves it said the current source was better for low frequencies, voltage for high, so I guess there's one time where biwiring would be useful. Never heard the amp so I can't say for sure. My Rotel RB-1092 amp has two sets of speaker connections specifically for the purpose of biwiring. Haven't tried it but the option is open if I feel so inclined.
Hi Paul. You explained it perfectly but I must ask a question. Many premade consumer bi wire cables use four identical wires ie all 16 gauge multi strand.or whatever they choose, you can find many on Amazon for instance. Is there any point to those types of cables or is it a moot point?. I get running 2 different types but I am not sure there is a point if all four conductors are exactly the same.
Unless you have VERY short speaker cables 16 Ga is too small. For distances up to about 10 ft. 12 Ga or even 10 Ga would be recommended. For a rational explanation of speaker cables I suggest watching the Audioholics video on the subject at: th-cam.com/video/kR12Ttuxobs/w-d-xo.html The title is "Speaker Cables Really Don't Matter". That is sure to get the blood boiling of many of the "audiophiles" watching this channel but the testing results prove the point.
you said as long as the 2 amps have the same gain, and you wrote 30. 30 what? how do you know the ghain of your amp. I thought gain is the voltage coming from your head unit and gain knob controlls that voltage. Pllease clarify. much respect!
I have a pair of JBL E60. What amplifier should i buy in order to use them without fear of burning them or the amplifier? What is the cheapest one i can buy? Is Yamaha R-N301 a good choice?
Any amplifier would do the job. Just don't listen too loud. Try to borrow some amps from your friends to see how much output power do you need for your room.
I needed to leave this comment for, I have just now realized, I use your tutorials on a constant. Whether it be to cross reference against my own thoughts, check that my own equations format adds up, and more times than not, others questionable... teachings, to put it kindly. So the least I thought I could do is thank you your explanations. Both, in layman terms so all can understand, including myself. As well as in saving me time. A Beautiful Mind, indeed you have. Especially at waiding us/myself through the (streams) of crap. Pun intended. Thank you, again. The more knowledgeable I become, the less I realize I have. Mark Reeves
One thing I've never been sure of: with your explanation of bi-amping th-cam.com/video/luiUKhuUhCY/w-d-xo.html, if the high frequency amp is getting a full range signal, isn't that 5 watt amp still needlessly/wastefully amplifying the full range signal? Or do passive high pass crossovers somehow limit the amplifier from amplifying lower frequencies?
if you understand that different cables types and material do affect sound passage, you will know that Paul is spot on.I do not recommend bi wiring because for the most part it means buying more wiring, lol. Especially when using identical cables, but what Paul is demonstrating is that different cables types do have an effect on inductance, capacitance and resistance so just like a crossover network they can affect the filtering of frequencies, which is why some folks sense that their cables are bright or dull, etc. A/B test different interconnect and speaker wiring, and hear for yourself.
Just for the record. My B&W’s (no, Paul doesn’t sell those or the Amp i drive them with😃) are bi-wired using the same brand and type of cable for both the HF and LF drivers. There is a marked difference (note i said ‘difference’ not ‘improvement’) over the standard cabling method. Now on my system, for the music i play, i DID notice a marked improvement in the detail and resolution in the top end... i.e a shrill trumpet. In addition the LF is less muddied. Your experience may vary of course, but I think there is some merit to have a play around with this technique if your speaker terminals enable bi-wiring. Cheers 😎
Are 3 ways: 1 - bi wiring - one amp; 2 - bi wiring (independent passive crossover) - two amps; 3 - bi wiring (active crossover) this manner, you have to suppress the passive crossover - two amps ÷ active crossover.
From my experience when using both a and b speaker selections at the same time on 2 sets of speakers it pretty much distributes the power 50/50 (is much quieter) so I'm guessing that if you had a and b going into 1 bi-wired set it would sound the same as just using the a selector. I may be wrong and/or your amp may work differently. I'd give it a go and see if it sounds any better
A firm maybe. My bi-ampable speakers have four terminals. The woofer pair (and the low pass) are electrically seperate from the mid and tweeter crossover pair, so anything you want for amps and 4 wires per speaker. I also have rebuilt KLH 6s that have only 3 terminals and the crossover only has ONE negative terminal. Doubtful they could be biamped with seperate amplifiers without investigating both amps output's electrical reference. It's most likely to be okay if BOTH use chassis ground as the negative return, otherwise I'd guess NO.
Paul, just enuff info on biwire and biamping....thx for stressing point biamping requires both amps of equal GAIN, most people gloss over that. More info on biwire and biamping appreciated!!
Coming from Dynaudios (not biwireable) I thought biwiring was snake oil; instead, now at my third B&W speakers, I learnt that at least with B&W biwiring is almost mandatory if you want to exploit full potential of speakers. But, even if you don't biwire, PLEASE throw away the factory provided jumpers between the bass and treble connectors!
So, I have a question. I just bi wired my speakers but now my sub woofer doesn't work anymore. My sub settings are low as 50hz but it seems like all the lows being handled by my great 2 pair of speakers? Thoughts?
Before I put together my new system I had my old multi channel home theater amp, and bi wireable speakers. When I used four channels from the 7.1 amp to drive the speakers there was marked improvement in detail over using just two channels.
Because you passively bi-amped the speaker (as opposed to bi-wired it) so you increased the power delivery to the speakers which will always make them sound better....
Thanks a lot Paul for answering my question.
Thanks a lot for explaining
Thanks a lot Sumi for ansking my question.
I bi wire my coffe machine , by doing that i get a double espresso at once.
I reversed the polarity of my microwave oven plug. Now I can freeze things really quickly.
Oh man, that is pure gold!
@@scottlowell493 did you use a sonic screwdriver reversing the polarity ?
LOL ! I only hope you use a High-End IEC Cord to provide the best-tasting Coffee lol
Does it taste twice as better? :)
Excellent explanation. You have the skill of simplifying the most complex problems. Awesome
What a Great teacher Paul, the difference in power needed to drive a tweeter and woofer I didn't know that. I've ordered 2 sets of the same cable to run my bi-wire set up. Didn't think of use 2 different cables best for bass & treble!!l!!! Cheers from West Yorkshire, Grant 👍
I’m a bassist and I’ve biamped for several years. I run my bass through a buffered splitter; one of the leads runs to a 500 watt class D bass head and then to a 4x10” bass cab with the tweeter defeated.
The other lead coming out of the splitter goes to a Eggnater Rebel 30 that’s dialed in to using one pair (the EL84’s) of the 2 pair of power tubes for a total of 15 watts; that amp’s output runs to a 2 x 12” closed back guitar cab. The bass control on the Eggnater is turned all the way counterclockwise to cut the most of the bass out of the signal that’s destined for the guitar cab.
I use the guitar side for any effects I run and if I want any overdrive or distortion, I crank the gain on the Eggnater to taste as the tubes excel at that kind of thing. I dial in the bass amp pretty much the same as if I weren’t biamping.
I’m sure there are more technically elegant means of achieving what I’ve cobbled together. Still, this system has served me well over the last 10 years.
Had speakers worth a few grand UK. Tried bi wiring, bi amping and leaving them with the cross overs that they came with. And they sounded exactly the same to me.
cosawanty wasn’t the bi-amped setup louder for your system? I found my B&W System 683 front stage absolutely loves being bi-amped from the Yamaha RXV3800. Although the amp does run hotter and will auto protect with anything above -5db on the volume due to clipping after about 20 minutes. It will happily sit at -10db and blast thrash metal to all neighbours all day and night if I am in the mood
Diogenes, Diogenes...here's your honest man!
cosawanty
I'm guessing you'd only really notice a difference if the amps were completely different like Paul said, one being vacuum for highs and regular amps for lows for instance.
@@phizzle24 how do you bi-amp to one amp? Do you mean bi-wired?
Cyba IT no, it’s bi-amped. I have a Yamaha RX-V3800 7.1 AV receiver. Instead of having 5.1 surround sound and a second zone, it can be configured to bi-amp the front left & right speakers and also the centre and rear left/right. Front speakers are Bowers & Wilkins 683 S1. The woofers have their own channel and the mid/tweets have their own channel
I really appreciated this in-depth explanation. Usually spoken to like we’re children on TH-cam, but this was very informative. Keep the classes in session.
This is how most understand, and why these questions are asked in the first place. Paul does a fantastic job at answering them for everyone to understand.
Everytime I watch any audio science explanation I end up more confused and feeling that I know less. This explanation has been crystal clear, engaging, uninterrupted and to the point. I have vastly increased my understanding thanks to your explanation, tip of the hat to you good sir! 🎩
Lol I cant see why
It ain't science..
@@hansemannluchter643 technically, it is
@@CC_Hunters No it isn't, it's Voodoo.
@@CC_Hunters lol.. We are talking about people who think they can hear if a wire has been cryo-frozen or not. Yes, it's Voodoo.
Going by your videos…yes, documentaries they’ll be enointed …Sir, you’ve exceeded all limits of imparting audiophile knowledge while just being neutral and non-commercial. Salute. But, your products are seemingly too expensive for guys like me. But I’ll always watch … and listen…
Thanks! Does it make a difference how then Bi-wires are connected on the speaker? Meaning bottoms plug to top? Or top plug to bottom?
Audiophiles are heavy into placebos. Bi-wiring/amping is pointless unless you are going to pre-amp an active crossover and bypass the resistors and coils altogether. We used to do this 30 years ago with car audio. Gauge and quality being equal, its ludicrous to think that there are wires that are better at passing higher frequencies than lower frequencies at a level noticable to the ear. The market would benefit from attainable variable 2/3/4 way active crossovers, where we could dial-in high/low pass frequencies prior to amplification. This would also make more efficient use of resources where high power amplifiers would be reserved for woofers/sub-woofers. Then the audible difference would truly be noticeable.
hear hear
True , bi-wiring may be subjective, bi-amping is more true to the ears especially with large speakers at louder volumes. Active Crossovers would be pointless as well in a regular home environment as good quality speakers have decent crossovers in them already . It’s not the quality or gauge of the wire that is making the difference, it’s the “separation “ of the two . I will never go back to conventional speakers without bi-wiring capabilities, but then again when I do my mixing in the studio, the engineers are always astounded by what I hear and what they don’t pick up unless I tell them . A blessing or a curse . . ? You tell me 😛
You are wrong! I am bi-wiring and bi-amping and now i want to bi-source too.. highs on some songs are so good while the base from Drake is solid.. i want both at the same time
Bi wiring with a pre amp / receiver with an output ( L & R ) to a power amp is good setup . You gain nothing using bi wiring from speakers A & B off of 1 amp
@@stevenjosephs9 You’re using two amp sections of your receiver, so that’s Bi-Amping, not Bi-Wiring. That’s beneficial in the sense that you now have increased headroom. An example of Bi-Wiring would be something similar to my how I have my two mains in my system set up. I have Gen 1 Emotiva XPA-1 Amps powering my fronts, on the back of the amp, even though there is only one amp section there are two sets of output terminals. With some braided 12awg (four strands = 9awg) I made, I utilize both sets of the output terminals, and both sets of the speaker input terminals. Now what does one get out of this? Well, beyond lowering cable resistance since you now have twice the wiring, nothing. So why do I do it? Because I think it looks cool.
The 5W / 200W combination will only work if you have some crossover filtering BEFORE the power amps. An amplifier's wattage is mostly defined by the maximum voltage it can produce before clipping. If you send all the frequencies into the 5W tweeter amp, it will start to clip as soon as you have 5W worth of bass in the signal.
I suspect the power amps work as a single circuitry with the speakers crossover and speakers itself. So if there is a condenser in the twitter circuitry, the amp will not amplify low frequencies.
Also I suspect that real AC have their twitter with much higher impedance than for their woofer. AC overall impedance is specified for the lowest speaker average impedance, and when AC is wired into single amp this impedance difference distributes more power to woofer than to twitter.
For bi-amping it makes sense to choose amp working with AC impedance for woofer wiring, while impedance requirements for the other pair (high frequencies) are usually weaker. E.g. 4 Ohms for woofer, 8-16 Ohms for the rest. And AC overall is marked as 4 Ohms.
Mr. McGown, thank you for giving a proper education on what bi-wiring and bi-amping is. I get so turned off watching these "audio blowhards" on TH-cam say bi-wiring is a waste of time because it "makes no difference." What I learned from watching you explain this is there is a difference between the two questions "is there a difference" and "does it make a difference." And that entirely depends on the audible ability of the individual listener. Yes, there is a difference with bi-wiring, but can "you" hear it?
Starting with a non-expectant, somewhat skeptical disposition, I recently decided to bi-wire my B&W 3-way speakers (CM10 S2). I played tracks that were burned in my mind and knew exactly how they sounded prior to bi-wiring. Yes, I was able to discern a difference. I'm not saying it is significant, but there's definitely some difference - and it's better.
But, I'm wondering if that had anything to do with the fact that my speakers have a mid-range compared to a 2-way speaker? It just seemed to me my ears were picking up better those mid-range frequencies. I could more clearly discern sounds coming from the mid-range than before. So, does a 3-way speaker make more beneficial use from bi-wiring than a 2-way speaker?
Again, thank you for taking the time to produce this helpful video.
Bi wiring is not possible as the highs don't pass only through one speaker wire and not the other and vise versa. They would have to be split with a crossover in the amp to do so. Both cables will have the same signal passing through them until they hit the speaker cross over where they are filtered for the first time. It's easy to test with a spectro.
IN BI-WIRING, what separates the highs from the lows when the wire leaves the amp? Does the wire have a cross-over?
No the wire doesn't have a crossover! The crossover is still in the loudspeaker cabinet...but split completely into two separate filter circuits (in a two-way speaker) these, along with the drive unit 'presents' a frequency dependant load to the amplifier which will supply current as and when needed to the tweeter or woofer - this current travels along the wires, treble to the tweeter filter and subsequently to the tweeter, and bass/mid to the woofer filter and on to the woofer. The paths diverge where the split occurs - usually inside the cabinet...often on the circuit board of the crossover in a single terminal pair speaker. In tha biwirable speaker the two sets of terminals are bound together by plates or jumpers and a single speaker wire is plugged into either the top or bottom terminals, the split point is therefore either at the top or bottom terminals. When biwire is used the plates/jumpers are removed so the split point can be pulled back to the amplifier terminals, enabling the treble current to travel along the wire to the tweeter terminals (usually the upper pair), and the bass/mid current to the woofer terminals (usually at the bottom.
The debate should be 'whether' any advantage accrues from such an arrangement, not 'how' it works! There are sights that deny it works like this.... presumably so that they can deny it 'works' at all.....don't believe the fake science, it works as I've described!
Wow, that's the best explanation of bi-wiring / bi-amplification I've found! Thank you!
Just when I thought that this was complicated enough, OMG what people get into in this game. What ever happened to just enjoying the music? audiophiles over think things, and I am an industrial electronics tech....but I did learn a good many things here! very good explaination. So, tubes sound better on tweeters and solid state sound better on woffers, and special cables are more for the tweeters and any thick cable will work on the woffers. Bi-wired speakers are only really good if your amp is bi-wired. Thank you, very much!
Paul is such a great professor ... bravo ... really convincing in that I begin to look at PS products seriously
So, Ideally if you have a true bi-amped and bi-wired system you don't want any crossover circuitry in the speaker. You just want the clean signal to go straight from the amps to the tweeter and woofer respectively.
With that in mind am I right in assuming it is kind of pointless bi-wiring speakers that have crossovers (Even though they still are bi-wirable with 4 binding posts) because the capacitors and coiled wires will still cut off parts of the signal?
You need a crossover in your amp if you expect different signals (one high, one low) to pass over the two wires.
Haters gonna hate, tweeters gonna tweet and woofers gonna woof
And speakers gonna speak!
Oh...
@MLWATKK woof woof woof woof
And want mid-range going to do Muff lol
Fuckers gonna........😂
Bypasses gonna pass by :P
It seems to me that bi wiring to a single amplifier should be very similar to just wiring to the same crossover normally. You would be adding extra length to the single wired crossover. The difference you’d be noticing would be a shift in the LCR contribution of the cables used on each leg.
The same story would fit with bi-amping. There you would also hear extra head-room and a lower noise floor.
Active would probably be the best approach and the LCR of the cable would be negligible since you are attaching the drive units to the amplifiers without an intervening filter network.
My thoughts are that bi-wiring and bi-amping add more wire and more amplifiers and the subjective change is nothing to do with the crossover. Perhaps single wiring with a more powerful amplifier with slightly thicker wires will give the same or, a better effect than bi-wiring to a single amplifier or, bi-amping.
I think the active route justifies bi-amping and stands to be more accurate and efficient since there is less energy being converted into heat and distortion instead of sound by a filter network in front of each voice coil.
On a Marantz PM8004 I’m using speaker A terminal to wire the tweeters and B terminal for woofers on my bi-wired Quad 22L tower speakers. Although it is not technically bi-amping, is it offering a benefit? (Sounds pretty good to me)…
It sounds good because they are excellent speakers and amplifier for the money. As for any gain with biwiring using the A and B speaker outlets, there isn't any - the A and B output terminals are derived from the same output transistors, they just pass through their own switches to the terminals; it's the same as paralleling them on one set of output terminals.
I did the bi-amping, and the sound - even after recalibrating the speakers - was muddy: powerful, but imprecize bass, very harsh highs, mid was not creating any room. One cable is a shorter 2,5mm2 cross surface I used for the highs, the other one is a longer 4mm2 cross surface that I used for the lows.
Is it the amp that is crappy, or the cables really have to have the same properties to do bi-amping?
Of course, I removed the interconnecting wires between the speaker poles to keep the right impedance.
Out of curiousity, I swapped the pairs in between high and low posts, and it didn't really do much difference, I expected hissing or lost sound due to filters of the speaker.
Any tip? I have a Pioneer SC-LX88, I used the Top middle for highs, Front for lows as per the manual.
What does the reverse polarity do on my sub woofer and why should I use it
Like the man said "tweeters are gonna tweet and woofers are gonna woof". I'm going to stick with old school - one cable to each speaker and sit back and enjoy. The search for perfection costs too much and takes too long. Life is too short.
Starting my journey..... I love Paul’s videos
How very exciting. Welcome!
With your explanation of bi-wiring/bi-amplifying of low ang high frequencies, my question is, where do you fit the midrange sound if not for a 3-way crossover network for just using single amplifier/receiver? In my case am just using a Sony receiver connected to a 3-way crossover network (with tweeter, midrange, and woofer drivers), and the sound is loud and better in my hearing.
I've got some Bi-wirable speakers and wrongly assumed that when you disengage that metal connector between the treble and bass posts the signal just goes directly to the driver. I just thought you'd have it bi-amp'd negating the need for the capacitors and coil wires. Now I know. So I'm guessing the top-end "made for bi-amping" speakers don't have any crossover circuitry to get a cleaner sound.
Bi wiring is this connected to speaker pair a and b on the amp?
Lets say the tweeter connected to pair a and the woofer to pair b?
I am guessing I did not understand understand anything.
Can I bi-amp using a and b channels from a single amp?
One of your best Q&A's yet, thank you for doing this.
What about 3way speaker? I want to know, which side go Mid? Is mid connect to the low part or high part. Thanks in Advanced.
Is bi-wiring possible for both passive and active speakers?
I had buy this yahama speaker wif yamaha receiver. Wanna know, should i buy the hi-end wire to connect the speaker to get best sound or else just using the wire which yamaha provided is enough ya? Thanks
What about Wilson Audio and Bose. An one Bi or Tri wire these speakers?
Bi-amping my Polk RTi A9s for a total of 290 watts (145 watts x2) made a HUGE difference in the clarity, smoothness and sound stage across all frequencies.
Yes, but did it improve the bouquet?
I used to do series or parallel (using multiple speakers) for impedance reasons but those days are long gone (for me anyway) lol. Love woofers woff and tweeters tweet and don't forget the tweekers tweek ;-)
At last somebody that explains clearly and true story. Like you very much. BTW I am using bi-amping in all my system (for other reasons). When the Amplifier of the woofer works hard it doesnt impact the clarity of the high.I have also a pair of B&W 804, they need quite a push. I found that a simple Rotel of 5*120 is better(the difference was really big mostly in low power) than expensive stereo ( MBL or Musical Fidelity). Joe Israel
Is it possible to properly wire four speakers to a single two channel output amp ?
Yes, absolutely as long as the impedance works. If you have 8Ω speakers, then powering the two together presents a 4Ω load to your amp which is fine for most amps. On the other hand, if you have 4Ω speakers and pair them on one amp, then you have only a 2Ω load and that's likely not going to work.
For some reason car audio allows you to do this easier, my pioneer head unit, no built in amp, has electronic crossovers so I can set up custom crossovers/ slope and go active into each speaker, requires more Amplifiers, But it’s great for the front stage, 4 channels two for each tweeter two for each midbass, subwoofer has its own mono amplifier. Pioneer stage 4 copper chassis head unit P 99RS , One of the best piece of audio equipment I’ve ever owned.
Fully agree with you.
I have 2 quad 404-2 amps which have been upgraded to dual mono power supplies. They are bi-amped into B&W matrix 3E speakers and sound absolutely amazing. Question I am probably wasting a lot of power using a 200 W amp to power tweeters. You say gain needs to be the same, I would be interested in replacing the tweeters amp for a low powered tube amp. How Can I find what the gain is on the quad 405To find a tube app that will be suitable thanks
I'm using a stereo equipment with output for mid range and high frequency speakers and another for low frequency speakers (subwoofers). Since its original speaker boxes have lousy mid range drivers and tweeters, I'm using another pair of speakers. These boxes have three speakers and crossovers each. Their mid range drivers and tweeters are very good. So I connected the mid range and high frequency outputs to them and the crossovers don't allow any of it to leak to the woofers. Audio quality has improved a great deal with this arrangement.
Will I damage my speakers or audio receiver if I connect right A and B to the right side speaker and left A and B to the left side speaker? Thanks
I truly do appreciate the explanation. However, it's always nice at the end if you could cap things off with opinion on whether it's worth the trouble and expense. For those considering getting into audiophile sound, or those that might have dipped a toe in, should this be something we're looking to do if speakers allow for it?
Michael B. - I disagree. His opinion would very easily be pointed out as snake oil sales. Let Paul lay out the information, and let us make our decisions for ourselves.
someone who knows what they're talking about needs to tell the newbies if, in fact, it is 'snake oil", no?
I would value Paul's opinion, regardless of the snake oil alarmists.
If Paul holds back his opinions, then he has surrendered to the naysayers and trolls.
salmonline - Paul is not in the business of exposing snake oil sales techniques. There are plenty of other channels for that.
Well everything and nothing is worth the trouble and expense. Welcome to day one of (insert, hobby, passion, discipline here).
I just like the way you nurrate facts, so eazy to follow with right understanding. Keep going this way. Thanks! Bhaskar
Your my favourite thing to come out of Boulder, Colorado since Mork and Mindy!
If you have speakers that are biwireable but you only have one set of speaker wires and have the bridge plate in place. My question is if it is better to connect the one set of speaker wires to the low-frequency or high-frequency posts? I have always connected to the low-frequency post given that bass response requires more power than treble, so, my thinking is any reduction in signal strength going over the bridge plate should have less of an effect on the treble than on the bass response. I am curious to know if you all agree or have a different perspective that i may not be considering.
I bi-wired my speakers, and now they sing both ways...
In every reactive filter or component; as capacitors and inductors, there is introduced a phase shift between the source signal and the output from the filter. I presume bi-amping can help with controlling the phase relationship between the speakers, as there can be introduced a phase shift into one of the amps in order to cancel out the phase error between the speakers?
I was reading the instructions for my new Polk speakers. I didn't exactly realize that even if you don't biAMP them, that you can still biWIRE them anyway. What if they just took the crossover out of the speaker and installed it in the back of the receiver or amplifier instead?
I totally understood what you were getting it here.... Nicely done
Paul offering advice at the PS Audio store - Buy everything!
I have learned so much from this guy.new to audio and having fun
5 watt amp?
I thought you still needed a 100 watt amp however it would only be outputting highs so same wattage amp? cos there be crossovers active or passive.
A tweeter typically takes no more than 5 to 10 watts, sometimes more, but it's rare. This is because recordings contain very little high frequency information relative to lower notes. It's the nature of music. So even if you're playing something quite loudly, it's unlikely the highs are drawing much power.
also makes less sense to be to have separate snake-oil wires, one for the tweeter, one for the woofer, when within the enclosure itself, the manufacturer probably used the same type of wire to connect the woofer/tweeter to the binding posts, or same wire to make the voice coils, etc.. so no matter how expensive or high quality you put as the external wiring, the internal wiring is probably as cheap as the manufacturer could get away with for the particular product line.
What happens if you biwire (single amp) but leave the binding post bridge connected
Hi good video right now I have two PARASOUNDS 2125 models that I bi amp with for a good while now,passively .the second amp does the tweeters. They both have the same power 125watts 8olm.I do have a vacuum tube amp which is a mini one 3and half watts per channel can I use that one for my tweeters ? Not sure what the gain is .There is no outputs on that amp so it would get the signal from the parasound.
I didn't notice anything outstanding when I bi-wired many years ago, but when I tried VERTICALLY bi-amping using two stereo power amps - well, that's a whole different story.
Using two NAD 2200 power amps: on the left-side amp, left channel went to the tweeters while it's right channel went to the woofers - ditto for the right side amp. The 2200s were 100 watts into 8 ohms each side, so plenty of power and headroom available.
Thanks not everyone is an expert so learning is a good especially with words that everyone can understand i appreciate videos like these!
Hi, your channel is great !
I have a bi-wire cable and just bought some speakers that have just a single-wire terminal.
Now i am using it on a+b speaker outputs to single on the speakers.
Is that a problem ?
Thank you in advance..
Greetings from germany !
Best explanation out of all the Videos on TH-cam regarding this topic. Well done 👍
Super interesting on the vacuum tubes amp powering the tweeter and having a different, more powerful, amp powering the woofer.
So, bi-wiring is essentially driving the woofer and the tweeter individually with the appropriate crossovers given the appropriate amplification process instead of using a 2 or 3 way speaker?
The main thing about bi-wiring is that people like Paul get to sell you twice as many cables
Excellent explanation, Paul. Thanks!
I remember reading about a Sunfire amp where it had two output sets, one a current source, the other a voltage source. If memory serves it said the current source was better for low frequencies, voltage for high, so I guess there's one time where biwiring would be useful. Never heard the amp so I can't say for sure. My Rotel RB-1092 amp has two sets of speaker connections specifically for the purpose of biwiring. Haven't tried it but the option is open if I feel so inclined.
How to connected yamaha mx-a5200amplifire to Yamaha cx-a5200 preamplifier for my home theater 9.1.6 set up thank you
Hi Paul. You explained it perfectly but I must ask a question. Many premade consumer bi wire cables use four identical wires ie all 16 gauge multi strand.or whatever they choose, you can find many on Amazon for instance. Is there any point to those types of cables or is it a moot point?. I get running 2 different types but I am not sure there is a point if all four conductors are exactly the same.
Unless you have VERY short speaker cables 16 Ga is too small. For distances up to about 10 ft. 12 Ga or even 10 Ga would be recommended. For a rational explanation of speaker cables I suggest watching the Audioholics video on the subject at: th-cam.com/video/kR12Ttuxobs/w-d-xo.html The title is "Speaker Cables Really Don't Matter". That is sure to get the blood boiling of many of the "audiophiles" watching this channel but the testing results prove the point.
Thanks! Real simple without distractions and dissertations. Now I get it.
Is common ground the normal way to go?
Wouldn't a dedicated ground for both the tweeter and woofer be better?
Grounds are all connected anyway
I get the schematic, but it would also be very nice to see both methods in action. Thanks again!
For bi-amping you mention needing the amps to have the same gain. How would you know or be able to tell?
@Joshua
Invite an engineer over for a beer.
That doesn't sound too difficult Marianne. Thanks.
you said as long as the 2 amps have the same gain, and you wrote 30. 30 what? how do you know the ghain of your amp. I thought gain is the voltage coming from your head unit and gain knob controlls that voltage. Pllease clarify. much respect!
Ever since i have heard about bi-wiring (for more than 40 years), this is the clearest and most up to the point, thanks Paul.
I have a pair of JBL E60. What amplifier should i buy in order to use them without fear of burning them or the amplifier? What is the cheapest one i can buy? Is Yamaha R-N301 a good choice?
Any amplifier would do the job. Just don't listen too loud. Try to borrow some amps from your friends to see how much output power do you need for your room.
I needed to leave this comment for, I have just now realized, I use your tutorials on a constant. Whether it be to cross reference against my own thoughts, check that my own equations format adds up, and more times than not, others questionable... teachings, to put it kindly.
So the least I thought I could do is thank you your explanations. Both, in layman terms so all can understand, including myself. As well as in saving me time. A Beautiful Mind, indeed you have. Especially at waiding us/myself through the (streams) of crap. Pun intended. Thank you, again.
The more knowledgeable I become, the less I realize I have.
Mark Reeves
Or maybe Bi-wiring stands for “Buy wiring”! (This one was stolen... not mine)
I'll bi that....expensive stuff.
Gene Dellasala from Audioholics said that i think :-))
How t wire technics SB -EH760 tri wire speakers ?
Absolutely interesting. Makes me wonder are there hybrid amps where it's a combined tube and solid state bi-amping a speaker? Great video.
One thing I've never been sure of: with your explanation of bi-amping th-cam.com/video/luiUKhuUhCY/w-d-xo.html, if the high frequency amp is getting a full range signal, isn't that 5 watt amp still needlessly/wastefully amplifying the full range signal? Or do passive high pass crossovers somehow limit the amplifier from amplifying lower frequencies?
if you understand that different cables types and material do affect sound passage, you will know that Paul is spot on.I do not recommend bi wiring because for the most part it means buying more wiring, lol. Especially when using identical cables, but what Paul is demonstrating is that different cables types do have an effect on inductance, capacitance and resistance so just like a crossover network they can affect the filtering of frequencies, which is why some folks sense that their cables are bright or dull, etc. A/B test different interconnect and speaker wiring, and hear for yourself.
i think you gona explain the pi model of a wire and how it afected sound
What happens if I remove the bridge plates but only connect speaker wires to 1 pair of binding post?
Then you'll only hear the tweeter or woofer depending on which one you connected. That's it.
Just for the record. My B&W’s (no, Paul doesn’t sell those or the Amp i drive them with😃) are bi-wired using the same brand and type of cable for both the HF and LF drivers. There is a marked difference (note i said ‘difference’ not ‘improvement’) over the standard cabling method. Now on my system, for the music i play, i DID notice a marked improvement in the detail and resolution in the top end... i.e a shrill trumpet. In addition the LF is less muddied. Your experience may vary of course, but I think there is some merit to have a play around with this technique if your speaker terminals enable bi-wiring. Cheers 😎
Thank you I fully agree! (btw I also have B&W's maybe it's a "B&W thing"?)
Paul: How do you measure the gain?
If you are coming from the same source channel then you have the same gain
You are just taking one channel from your preamp and making it 2 if you are doing bi amp and that would give you the same gain going into both amps
Simply and well explain, IMHO. Thanks from Spain.
Very clearly explained, thanks Paul 👍
just thinking , when wiring with tweet an woof both @4ohms ,with one amp,dose the single amp see 2ohm at the output? ps, pauls cool
Thank you , for the video and your time From Mexico city !!
Are 3 ways:
1 - bi wiring - one amp;
2 - bi wiring (independent passive crossover) - two amps;
3 - bi wiring (active crossover) this manner, you have to suppress the passive crossover - two amps ÷ active crossover.
Who cares, does nothing!
How do the two amp outputs stay enough in phase? The simple example with dual amplifiers feels like they would be entirely out of sync
Best explanation I've heard.
if my amp has a speaker's a and b speakers output couldn't I use a-left then b left to biamp left speaker and do both sides of my speakers like this
From my experience when using both a and b speaker selections at the same time on 2 sets of speakers it pretty much distributes the power 50/50 (is much quieter) so I'm guessing that if you had a and b going into 1 bi-wired set it would sound the same as just using the a selector. I may be wrong and/or your amp may work differently. I'd give it a go and see if it sounds any better
Can you bi wire and bi amp at the same time
A firm maybe. My bi-ampable speakers have four terminals. The woofer pair (and the low pass) are electrically seperate from the mid and tweeter crossover pair, so anything you want for amps and 4 wires per speaker.
I also have rebuilt KLH 6s that have only 3 terminals and the crossover only has ONE negative terminal. Doubtful they could be biamped with seperate amplifiers without investigating both amps output's electrical reference. It's most likely to be okay if BOTH use chassis ground as the negative return, otherwise I'd guess NO.
Ask a cable and amp salesman. You have two guesses as to what the answer will be....
So having monoblocks is better than having one amp ?
bi curious audiophiles lmfao
Haha good one
I just bought my first speaker set ever and you're goddamn right I am 👀👀
Paul, just enuff info on biwire and biamping....thx for stressing point biamping requires both amps of equal GAIN, most people gloss over that. More info on biwire and biamping appreciated!!
I love your explanations, very interesting, greetings from the Netherlands.
Coming from Dynaudios (not biwireable) I thought biwiring was snake oil; instead, now at my third B&W speakers, I learnt that at least with B&W biwiring is almost mandatory if you want to exploit full potential of speakers. But, even if you don't biwire, PLEASE throw away the factory provided jumpers between the bass and treble connectors!
So, I have a question. I just bi wired my speakers but now my sub woofer doesn't work anymore. My sub settings are low as 50hz but it seems like all the lows being handled by my great 2 pair of speakers? Thoughts?
Check how you are feeding the input to the subwoofer.
@@Paulmcgowanpsaudio would love to get some help. Feeding via sub cable from av receiver.
@@asgsittng Maybe best to email me directly. paul@psaudio.com
It might be time to invest in a new subwoofer. Its a tug-of-war. Now your speakers are winning.
Before I put together my new system I had my old multi channel home theater amp, and bi wireable speakers. When I used four channels from the 7.1 amp to drive the speakers there was marked improvement in detail over using just two channels.
Because you passively bi-amped the speaker (as opposed to bi-wired it) so you increased the power delivery to the speakers which will always make them sound better....