I have owned an XFR for over 10 years. Fantastic car. All of these recommendations are good. There are a bunches of items you missed. starting with: 1. Coolant pipe crossover in the behind the supercharger needs to be added to the list of plastic coolant pipes to replace; fortunately they make all metal coolant/xover/thermostat for the 5.0L S/C now aftermarket. The OEM ones will continue to fail every 50k miles until you replace with metal. Make sure the rear crossover pipe in metal has the two screw flange not the 3 screw flange because the 3 goes to the V6. 2. The coolant tank has a internal sensor and pressure cap that can go bad and the tank itself can fail with the plastic hoses. Replace the whole tank and cap and hoses. 3. The black coolant bleeder screws on the top left of the engine bay by the fuse cover are $#!* plastic and get soft over time and can spring a leak that will definitely strand you on the road. There are some brass ones for $6 at any auto parts store that you can get for a lot of other cars like BMW's that will replace them forever. 4. Also the Engine/Transmission mounts need changing at this age along with the all the suspension bushings. 5. The transmission has a rectangle plastic seal called a mechatronic seal that you can buy a billet aluminum one to replace it with online; that when broken will make the transmission have a hard 2-1 shift that lunges the car coming to a stop. Replacing it with another OEM plastic one will still crack again and again and again until you replace it with a metal one. 6. You have to replace the transmission oil with ZF Lifeguard 6 fluid only and filter every 50K miles or your trans will start to lunch itself. Other types of fluid will cause malfunctions. Replace the paper clutches with metal ones. Refurb the Valve body with new solenoids. 7. Replace the diff oil every 50K as well. 8. There is a plastic breather valve on the diff that can clog and cause problems with its operation. Clean/Replace it. 9. The stock Fuel Direct Injectors need changing every 100k miles because they will fail from high heat and pressure over time and you want to run a fuel lubrication cleaner like lucas oil through them at least one a quarter to keep them tip top. Also make sure the replacement injectors are Bosch or OEM. Knockoffs are terrible quality and will fail and blow the engine. 10. The fuel pump fuel filter housing has some bad connector that will short out and cause starting problems that needs replacing every 100k. Its under the passenger rear seat. Look inside the connector, if there are burn marks in there, yours is bad. 11. The O2 sensors need replacing every 100k or you can start to get check engine codes. There are 4, two upstream and two downstream. Make sure they are Denso or Bosch or OEM brand, the knockoffs cause more problems. 12. Same for the two MAF sensors. They need to be Denso or OEM only and replaced every 100k. 13. I have heard the shock tower mounts can fail. Replace with OEM. 14. The rubber center driveshaft mount can fail causing drive-line vibration and also the rubber flex coupler isolators connecting the shaft to the diff and to the trans to the shaft get brittle over time and will fail. 15. Change Supercharger oil possibly add a S/C venom cooler from stagemeyer. While the supercharger is off, insulate the bottom of it with aspen aerogel from the engine heat and add a ePTFE spacer with water injection ports. 16. If your car was not driven hard or lots of short trips it has probably carbon buildup from DI and needs walnut blasting inside the intake. 17. EGR Blockoff plate and baffled oil catch can to prevent carbon buildup in future. 18. Make sure the tensioners are upgraded metal OEM ones. The early stock ones are plastic. 19. Divorce the intercooler setup from the radiator coolant and use separate tank and inter-chiller. This will allow the heat soak to not build up as fast. My intake air temps can get high here in FL. 180 degree+! stock normal IAT is around 147 degrees. Imagine getting this down to ambient. These things go for any XFR, F-Type, XJR, F-Pace, Range Rover 5.0L S/C variants.
Well I've had my XF 3.0 diesel for nine years, it's 14 years old now. I had the timing belts done at 100k. But other than a drooping rear window - easily fixed - I've had no bother with it at all. One of the best, most reliable I've owned in my life.
Same here, I have the exact same 3L 237bhp model, which I have had for 7 years and I've never had a problem. All I've had to change is the front suspension arms which given the state of our roads is not surprising. Timing belts needed changing on any car at a certain age, that's maintenance, not a fault.
@@Naim29451Look for the older 3 litre diesel, not the later ingenium ones. Bulletproof engine, very smooth, quick and reliable. A bit noisy when cold in the winter but then most are.
Let’s be honest the first 3 are common in all diesels ! Also the rear belt only runs the fuel pump so doesn’t damage the engine plus look at its German rivals the A6 and the 5 series both suffer chain failures much more expensive don’t get me wrong jags are problematic but no worse than any luxury car in years of working on cars I see more BMW and Mercedes than anything else and we work on all high end brands.
I have owned 3 XF 3-0 diesel my current XF is a 3-0 S Sportbrake purchased in 2014 I have not experienced any of the faults you describe I have changed the batteries renewed the discs and rotors had to replace the front door sealing rubber renew the headlight washer pump and of course tyres I also had the timing belts changed after 7 years as Jaguar recommendation the car is regularly serviced can only go on my own experiences.
I have the S sportbrake version and I cannot stress enough that the servicing should be roughly every 6-7k miles or every year at most. The intervals are too long on them, also if you don’t drive it often aswell as keeping the DPF healthy keep the battery healthy this can cause a minefield of weird issues. And for god sakes check the headlamp washer pump for leaks. It wicks water down the main wiring harness into the main fuse box causing a complete failure!
My favourite fault on the facelifted first generation XF? A leaking windscreen washer pump that allows water to wick all the way to the Central Junction Box, destroying it.
Should probably mention that one of the most common faults on all of the XF cars is the GPS antenna failure from water ingress into the shark fin. Very easy fix, just replace the shark fin.
One of the worst cars I’ve ever worked on , total nightmare, try changing the top wishbone, you have to remove the scuttle panel, then remove the fuse box to move it out the way just to access the wishbone nuts that you can’t reach, then you have to remove the suspension strut so you can remove the bolt, a 3 hour job that should be able todo in 1 hour.
I can't agree with the answer. The Jag is every day more reliable than an Audi or a mercedes. Automatic Audi has gearbox issues unless bitdi. Merc are bland as hell and suffer from 7g tronic. If you get the 2.2 diesel you will be very happy with the reliability. The best is the 200 bhp version.
By far the worst car ive ever owned, fault after fault after fault… these are total money pits honestly total piece of crap. Heres a select few of mine, 1. Cat collapsed had to replace 2. Coolant housing leaks 3. Gearbox jerks and jumps randomly 4. Mass air flow failed twice 5. Both abs sensors failed twice 6. Sat nav no longer works 7. All the wheels have severely corroded. 8. I now have a whining noise at 2000rpm. 9. Back door filled up with water 10. Theres a buzzing sound from the rear doors when accelerating. I could go on and on TERRIBLE CAR STAY AWAY BUY A TOYOTA LEXUS AUDI ETC…
the parts you have described are mostly made by german suppliers that make the same parts for the german manufacturers. Jaguar do not make cats, the Zf gearbox, mass air flow sensors, abs sensors or the sat nav or wheels. Like most manufacturers they make the basic engine castings, the body/chassis and buy everything else in. They use the same suppliers as BMW mostly.
Stay away from all jaguars they are money pits, XJ, XF terrible cars, E class Mercedes amazing cars, 8 years ownership even the dpf system is better than jags I drive mostly urban miles, no issues at all
couldnt disagree more, my 2 XF have been fantastic. The issues with DPF are common to most cars, indeed the components come from the same manufacturers. Jaguar do not make these parts
I have owned an XFR for over 10 years. Fantastic car. All of these recommendations are good. There are a bunches of items you missed. starting with:
1. Coolant pipe crossover in the behind the supercharger needs to be added to the list of plastic coolant pipes to replace; fortunately they make all metal coolant/xover/thermostat for the 5.0L S/C now aftermarket. The OEM ones will continue to fail every 50k miles until you replace with metal. Make sure the rear crossover pipe in metal has the two screw flange not the 3 screw flange because the 3 goes to the V6.
2. The coolant tank has a internal sensor and pressure cap that can go bad and the tank itself can fail with the plastic hoses. Replace the whole tank and cap and hoses.
3. The black coolant bleeder screws on the top left of the engine bay by the fuse cover are $#!* plastic and get soft over time and can spring a leak that will definitely strand you on the road. There are some brass ones for $6 at any auto parts store that you can get for a lot of other cars like BMW's that will replace them forever.
4. Also the Engine/Transmission mounts need changing at this age along with the all the suspension bushings.
5. The transmission has a rectangle plastic seal called a mechatronic seal that you can buy a billet aluminum one to replace it with online; that when broken will make the transmission have a hard 2-1 shift that lunges the car coming to a stop. Replacing it with another OEM plastic one will still crack again and again and again until you replace it with a metal one.
6. You have to replace the transmission oil with ZF Lifeguard 6 fluid only and filter every 50K miles or your trans will start to lunch itself. Other types of fluid will cause malfunctions. Replace the paper clutches with metal ones. Refurb the Valve body with new solenoids.
7. Replace the diff oil every 50K as well.
8. There is a plastic breather valve on the diff that can clog and cause problems with its operation. Clean/Replace it.
9. The stock Fuel Direct Injectors need changing every 100k miles because they will fail from high heat and pressure over time and you want to run a fuel lubrication cleaner like lucas oil through them at least one a quarter to keep them tip top. Also make sure the replacement injectors are Bosch or OEM. Knockoffs are terrible quality and will fail and blow the engine.
10. The fuel pump fuel filter housing has some bad connector that will short out and cause starting problems that needs replacing every 100k. Its under the passenger rear seat. Look inside the connector, if there are burn marks in there, yours is bad.
11. The O2 sensors need replacing every 100k or you can start to get check engine codes. There are 4, two upstream and two downstream. Make sure they are Denso or Bosch or OEM brand, the knockoffs cause more problems.
12. Same for the two MAF sensors. They need to be Denso or OEM only and replaced every 100k.
13. I have heard the shock tower mounts can fail. Replace with OEM.
14. The rubber center driveshaft mount can fail causing drive-line vibration and also the rubber flex coupler isolators connecting the shaft to the diff and to the trans to the shaft get brittle over time and will fail.
15. Change Supercharger oil possibly add a S/C venom cooler from stagemeyer. While the supercharger is off, insulate the bottom of it with aspen aerogel from the engine heat and add a ePTFE spacer with water injection ports.
16. If your car was not driven hard or lots of short trips it has probably carbon buildup from DI and needs walnut blasting inside the intake.
17. EGR Blockoff plate and baffled oil catch can to prevent carbon buildup in future.
18. Make sure the tensioners are upgraded metal OEM ones. The early stock ones are plastic.
19. Divorce the intercooler setup from the radiator coolant and use separate tank and inter-chiller. This will allow the heat soak to not build up as fast. My intake air temps can get high here in FL. 180 degree+! stock normal IAT is around 147 degrees. Imagine getting this down to ambient.
These things go for any XFR, F-Type, XJR, F-Pace, Range Rover 5.0L S/C variants.
Thanks for your detailed input.
Well I've had my XF 3.0 diesel for nine years, it's 14 years old now. I had the timing belts done at 100k. But other than a drooping rear window - easily fixed - I've had no bother with it at all. One of the best, most reliable I've owned in my life.
What was the model to be exact your using so i can purchase the same one
Same here, I have the exact same 3L 237bhp model, which I have had for 7 years and I've never had a problem. All I've had to change is the front suspension arms which given the state of our roads is not surprising.
Timing belts needed changing on any car at a certain age, that's maintenance, not a fault.
@@Naim29451Look for the older 3 litre diesel, not the later ingenium ones. Bulletproof engine, very smooth, quick and reliable. A bit noisy when cold in the winter but then most are.
Let’s be honest the first 3 are common in all diesels ! Also the rear belt only runs the fuel pump so doesn’t damage the engine plus look at its German rivals the A6 and the 5 series both suffer chain failures much more expensive don’t get me wrong jags are problematic but no worse than any luxury car in years of working on cars I see more BMW and Mercedes than anything else and we work on all high end brands.
I have owned 3 XF 3-0 diesel my current XF is a 3-0 S Sportbrake purchased in 2014 I have not experienced any of the faults you describe I have changed the batteries renewed the discs and rotors had to replace the front door sealing rubber renew the headlight washer pump and of course tyres I also had the timing belts changed after 7 years as Jaguar recommendation the car is regularly serviced can only go on my own experiences.
I have the S sportbrake version and I cannot stress enough that the servicing should be roughly every 6-7k miles or every year at most. The intervals are too long on them, also if you don’t drive it often aswell as keeping the DPF healthy keep the battery healthy this can cause a minefield of weird issues.
And for god sakes check the headlamp washer pump for leaks. It wicks water down the main wiring harness into the main fuse box causing a complete failure!
Well said 👏
I had my 2015/16 (December 2015) so it is more like the newer ones with the middle vents on top of the radio, and loads of faults but I love it
My favourite fault on the facelifted first generation XF? A leaking windscreen washer pump that allows water to wick all the way to the Central Junction Box, destroying it.
My left ear is enjoying this but what about the right one?
Should probably mention that one of the most common faults on all of the XF cars is the GPS antenna failure from water ingress into the shark fin. Very easy fix, just replace the shark fin.
Best car I've ever owned
The worst thing that can happend is crankshaft snaping wich is something that almost never happend on german rivals
Just chain keep stretching a little 😂
Not on the 2.2 or the petrol models
Funny I've had mine 3 yrs 2013 it's been absolutely perfect touch wood I buy another to mrw amazing
Why didn't you mention the issues with the keyless start???
Disconnect the battery and car becomes a paperweight.
Very difficult to remedy.
I’ve never had this issue tbh but thanks for the input
@@SalemtoScotland agree didnt realise changed battery cost me £600 to reprogram my keyless entry fobs
lesson learned
I just got a huge crush on this car because of its looks 😩
Would you recommend Jaguar or Genesis?
I’ve never had or driven a Genesis so I would stick with a Jag personally
One of the worst cars I’ve ever worked on , total nightmare, try changing the top wishbone, you have to remove the scuttle panel, then remove the fuse box to move it out the way just to access the wishbone nuts that you can’t reach, then you have to remove the suspension strut so you can remove the bolt, a 3 hour job that should be able todo in 1 hour.
For a driver is a dream but for a mechanic it’s a nightmare 😂😂
a mechanics work is never easy
LS swap the JAG Problem Solved lol
This sounds like these things can apply to just about any car. Nothing really Jaguar specific.
Worst fault with mine dpf filter Filling up regularly.
From what I’ve found, don’t use supermarket diesel, use a decent petrol stations diesel also I’d say to use dpf cleaner additive
Would you recommend these instead of similar class audis or mercedes? I just got a crush on this car because of its look😂
To simply answer your question, No! But they are still great cars for the value and definitely cheaper to buy if you find a nice example.
@@ShaksAutos thx for the answer
I can't agree with the answer. The Jag is every day more reliable than an Audi or a mercedes. Automatic Audi has gearbox issues unless bitdi. Merc are bland as hell and suffer from 7g tronic.
If you get the 2.2 diesel you will be very happy with the reliability. The best is the 200 bhp version.
What if i replace Timing belt with a chain ? From merc if possible
I don’t know if that’s possible
I think these engines are chain driven, not belts,
Is it worth it?
Yes
Was just about to trade in my 530d for one of these, maybe i shouldnt!
If you can find a good example with good maintenance history then don’t be afraid 🙏
By far the worst car ive ever owned, fault after fault after fault… these are total money pits honestly total piece of crap. Heres a select few of mine,
1. Cat collapsed had to replace
2. Coolant housing leaks
3. Gearbox jerks and jumps randomly
4. Mass air flow failed twice
5. Both abs sensors failed twice
6. Sat nav no longer works
7. All the wheels have severely corroded.
8. I now have a whining noise at 2000rpm.
9. Back door filled up with water
10. Theres a buzzing sound from the rear doors when accelerating.
I could go on and on
TERRIBLE CAR STAY AWAY BUY A TOYOTA LEXUS AUDI ETC…
the parts you have described are mostly made by german suppliers that make the same parts for the german manufacturers. Jaguar do not make cats, the Zf gearbox, mass air flow sensors, abs sensors or the sat nav or wheels. Like most manufacturers they make the basic engine castings, the body/chassis and buy everything else in. They use the same suppliers as BMW mostly.
Stay away from all jaguars they are money pits, XJ, XF terrible cars, E class Mercedes amazing cars, 8 years ownership even the dpf system is better than jags I drive mostly urban miles, no issues at all
couldnt disagree more, my 2 XF have been fantastic. The issues with DPF are common to most cars, indeed the components come from the same manufacturers. Jaguar do not make these parts
Bullshit. I have had tens of these no issues ever. This video is nonsense too
Have you owned an XJ and XF?
I am in Australia so stay away from diesel V6 petrol is the way to 135 000 ks no problem great drive quite good on fuel
Yeah the subframe of your Mercedes is rotting and a death trap by the way
I want to buy one of these but also looking at a 2014 w204 c180 Mercedes, any advice, it’ll be my first big purchase as a young adult
Play it safe and get an Aygo....