And one other quick tip, put 2 more speaker terminal studs on your box, then just connect all 4 sub wires inside to the 4 terminal studs, note and mark L+L- and R+R- on the corresponding stud. This way you don't have to take sub out anymore when you want to change wiring configuration, just do it on the outside at the terminal studs
Owned this beast for over a year now it pounds no issues or problems fans are not a problem they keep this beast cool at all times the only con on this amp is dont buy low rms woofers you need woofers with high wattage capability if not you will have blown $400 and up subwoofers this is a mono bass amp that takes no prisoners
I had my MD8000 1 ohm edition wired to .5 on a single Digital Designs 9915 SC , and on the same Dyno it was pushing 9,240 watts on the exact AMM-1 Dyno luckily that subs a beast because my previous Sundown ZV5 18 didn't take it for long runs it would fry also fried my Ground Zero Nuclear 15, also dynoed my SounDigital Evo 8000 at the same ohms and it did 8,200 but it did sound cleaner kinda like my Crescendo , the MD8000 does need to be hooked up to my DSP to get the bass I want , I ordered a Banda Viking 15,000 5 days ago and it gets here in two days can't wait to Dyno that awesome board
This is the first time I have seen the Tara tested in this fashion.(good real world test). I believe these amps (with the right power supply) can be used with an array of P.A. speakers to actually rock a decent sized club as long as you watch the clipping and keep it cool. It seems like that's what they were built to do by the looks of the guts of the smaller ones. I have noticed that the sound quality is determined by your input signal and how you process it because that's how P.A. amps are set up too. Great video and thank you for keeping it real and using affordable test equipment.
I agree. Input signal is very important with these amps. They are only going to amplify what is sent to them. I plan to use it with a DSP from Dayton audio.
@@BudgetBassHead maybe you got the Dayton already, if not the TH-cam channel 5star car stereo says they don’t like it. Maybe you can step it up a little and get the Rockford Dsr 1. I just picked up an alpine PXE-0850X for like $550, the dsr1 is like $320 and rising. Any dsp is better than no dsp, I think the Dayton just doesn’t have a lot of bands of eq. Once you get a dsp then you’ll learn how to use REW. All you’ll need is a $20 Dayton mic, a $5 trrs to trs splitter and a laptop and you can tune your system. Took me like 7 hours to figure out REW
Always do a good job making quality educational videos for car audio👍 appreciate taking the time to help explain to people in detail how to run their equipment and the reviews of products👍👍
It is labeled correctly. As a lot of you know, it is for matching the input level from the source. I recently helped someone with their system and they bragged that their gain was only at half so they had plenty of power left! Wow, cringe moment. I adjusted his gain, using my DD-1+ and let him know what it is so they were more informed. I have remind myself that we all start somewhere. Great video.
No, it doesn't, it just makes your clipping come sooner, you get the same quality at low output, stable 11v will sound the same as stable 15v, you just can't push the amp too hard at 11v
I am using a 90ah lithium bank @ 15.6v - 16v 380amp alternator and I’ve never had any issues out of all my Taramps amplifiers. Only clips but never shuts off or anything of that class.. you should build a better power bank to do test on Brazilian amplifiers.. Good video by the way.. it was entertaining
I have this exact same amp the 2 ohm model however and I’m running 2 platinum 15’s @ 1 ohm it doesn’t clip at all unless I really get on it and even when I do it’s a “soft clip” voltage will be 12.9-12.7 I’m running 104ah headway bank stock alt amp never shuts off
@@215sinakia7 exactly.. mine clips and even the red (“protection”) light comes on and never cuts off or shuts off.. been using it for a year the same way… no issues!! Those are great amps
There is a way to minimize the sparking when you first hook up the negative terminal. You take an automotive test light, One end goes to ground then you touch it to the negative terminal. What you're doing is charging the caps, your test lights come on for a moment, and then go out. Then you can safely hook up your negative terminal without getting the big spark. Because I'm just like you, that spark makes me jump every time😅
Taramps is a good budget-friendly amplifier but you got to have some legit electrical to push them correctly I personally have the smart 3K and love it🔊🔊🌪
That's not actually true. They require less than the average Korean amp..barevids made a video on that recently. The killer of many taramps is improper preout voltage.
I don't doubt that one bit.. but a good electrical system ( HighOutPutAlternator, Quality Proper Wiring & Good Batterys) help them preform at there best too. I have learned that from experience firsthand.
@@xchimnyx you definitely good electrical though. My smart 3 would go into protect because of low voltage running stock lead acid battery(not agm) and 200 amp alternator a few times a day (40 minutes of driving) until I upgraded my battery to an xs6500. Headlight were still dimming and adding a yellow top helped a lot. Yes I did big 3 and at the time probably had a run of 0 and a run of 4
Tarramps amps work pretty good. I have an 8k and 2 3ks. I will warn those though. If you don't have the electrical ID say don't buy them. I have a 240 alternator. An agm up front and 6 210ah in the back. 8 runs 1/0. So far no issues. I've been running about a year. My only complaint is no bass knob. I would buy the bass though. I lost 2 md models. My fault. Running below rated ohms. So far the bass model no issues yet. I never drop below 13.1 though.
I have 2 EVL 15s in my company car. 18 fusion with stock alt stock battery under the hood and 3 sms80 in the back. The battery bank should cover about 6K. Even with the battery bank I should stay away? I was gonna get the bass 5K and run at 2 ohms, I was even thinking the 8K after watching the box rise video. If not what brand would you recommend? I’ll upgrade the battery under the hood but changing the alt will prove to be too much to be worth it on a company cat
What ohm was running to lose two md models. I habe the md 5k ... but am abount taking all out upgraded everything. I already have everything on stand buy all beside the amp ... I was waiting and been waiting about can't take no more thinking going ahead doing next week ... just didn't fell like talking all of it out ... lol but old lady on me todo it she is getting my old stuff I'll be putting all in her car ... but say all this to say this .. .I' be putting in xv3 12 sundown. 1 ohm version... what amp would be best for them. .. I habe 320 amp alternator couple agm batteries plan on getting one more battery also that's one reason have not done it and I need amp and can't decide what line I won't to use I been using the md5k on 2 evils on .5 ohm they hit hard hard lol 😆 😂 can't maake.mind in run new subs 1 ohm or .25 quater ohm wonder with box rise all that should what would it come out ohm wise .5 or so idk not sure .... will md line or smart bass or what would run it at quater ohm .... any input would help thanks 😂😂
@@jorgem50 more than likely bc your alternator is stock.. & that amp is consuming 300amps or more. When you upgrade to a high output alternator, you'll notice the difference brotha
Great video, very plain English explanations. To solve your spark issues when connecting power, use a resistor of some sort (like a little handheld tester that has a probe and a lead with an alligator clip that has a small light bulb. Connect the positive power first, then clamp the alligator clip to the ground terminal of the Amp and then touch the probe to the ground source terminal or wire end that will connect to Amp The light will light up brightly and slowly begin to fade out as the capacitors within the Amp charge. When the light goes completely out the capacitors are fully charged and you can now safely connect your ground without the 4th of July taking place in your vehicle which sometimes will blow your inline fuse. Trust me, I was having the same anxieties every time I used to connect power, and the bigger the amps the harder the spark!
Good to hear man. I just built a 72ah headway pack to feed my 630 farad ultra cap which feeds everything. The lithium and the xs sb-630 easily supports my little 5k-7k system. You will LOVE the caps and lithium together. It was a bigger difference than doubling my alt power yo for real. Any questions bout either feel free to hmu. I did a grip of studying before buying any of it. And taramps hate low voltage and low impendance, any of the smart series has been proven a very decent amp and with the regulated power supply fights rise
No matter how many times I connect batteries and it spark bothers me every time too 😂. Keep up the good work on your videos been very helpful throughout my entire install thanks.
I was looking at the Taramps bass 3k just last night because I want a new 3000ish watt amp for my VXF 15. Ended up going with the crescendo S1V2 Plus which is 2500w. Korean board, very efficient. I have two AGM batteries and 1/0 big three and 1/0 wire to the amp but I don't have an aftermarket alternator yet. My alternator is under some other stuff and will be a real pain to switch out I was kind of hoping to avoid it. I keep hearing these taramps need good electrical so I'm avoiding them for now.
You should use a dual terminal block on your Toro sub to reduce wire cutting and reinstalling the sub every time you change the ohm load. Or at install threaded inserts to the wood from being stripped out from all the removing of the sub.
Just seen this now a year later after this first posted. Some hate and some love these. I’m in the middle. I can’t say I love them because they take shit ton of current for operating at 12v. I can’t hate on it either because my old TARAMPS smartBass 3k gave me more than it’s rated power at less than $300.00. My point here is they are cheaper and have value per watts, but is it really cheaper? To obtain the necessary wattage out of these amps you NEED the current supply. Therefore an electrical upgrade is a must if not you will clip at only 1/3 of its rated power. I upgraded to 250A from a 90A stock alt and a XSPOWER d3400 cost over $1500.00 And it still wasn’t enough. I’m now back at my stock alt with the xspower and produce 3k with the sundown salt. 🤷🏻♂️ it’s a great budget amp, but not for the average short cut budget.
They really are good amps, but dont let the size fool you… they really do 8k or more… and thats a insane amount of current.. make sure your system can take that all the way!
I ALWAYS do, especially with big amps. If only more folks wised up n did the same. It's hard on more than just amps. The caps, lithium, fuses, hell even the wire
@@IAM_HC I use a 25watt 4 ohm ceramic resistor I think it was a $5 but honestly if you had an even smaller one it would work fine for charging capacitors.
I’m running an MD8k.1 with 3 12” XFL’s wired to 1.6 ohms. I have a stalk alt and 60ah of yinlong. I never go below 13v, usually not even below 13.5 and I don’t clip at all.
Impedance rise is something else..I just use 2 amps per sub(dvc). I rather have more power than needed. But you better know about setting up amp GAINS & IMPEDANCE RISE ..GREAT VIDEO!!!!
I'm running a bass 8k taramps with a 150 amp factory alternator with a factory radio with 2.0 line converters? 400ah of reserve no voltage drop at full tilt? I believe it's because the voltage is only 2 volts taramps doesn't like radios that are 4 volts and higher?
I left a long message on your 6th order enclosure build and I have a smart 5K Bass and Ive got a bit to play with an audio place and would like to find a 6-8k amp for partially this reason. Ive got 2 clip indicators 😅😅.
Mannnnnnnnn, thanks a ton. Watching your video let me know why my taramp keeps going into protect mode. I have a extra 800 watt dry cell battery connected, but I see I might need to go get one more. I heard these amps were power hungry and now I see why. Thanks again
Unfortunately, people send a clipping signal to their subs and fry them, they will blame it on the sub because the amp is just "too powerful". They will buy new subs and fry them as well. Subs can not destroy themselves.
I had overheating issues with the tarramps I switched to mmats power and never have had a problem again the damn thing won't get hot for nothing but a ton of head room and not turned up in any way lol
The knobs for the potentiometers are not built on the potentiometer itself like all the others. The knob has a very small nipple coming out of it that you are feeling the flimsiness of, It's "X" shaped that goes through the actual pot. Agree they feel cheap but they are actually internally stout. The RCAs could be panel mounted but they at least have them screwed right next to it with a thicker screw then some with those tiny ones. Get yourself a test light, charge the caps in the amp by putting the test light across the fuse connectors before installing the fuse (if you must hook it up hot, test light from wire to terminal works) The light will light up and once charged will go out. when disconnecting amps put the test light across the + and - after power is disconnected and will do the same, which will light the light and go out once discharged. Doing this eliminates that spark that I don't care who you are gets you every time even when you know it is going to happen! and discharging eliminates power just sitting in the amp. Your DMM isn't fast enough to see the actual voltage fluctuating fyi
Had one on my dang brand new md 5k only had it one dang day and my knob on the high phase broke it didn't fall off the amp or anything all does just spind like it unconnected to whatever was connected to lol ... left a long didn't even try take out yet because didn't won't lose it ... or put up some where don't remember where I put but there anyway safety to put back on or anything like that ... thanks
I bought this amp it was on 4 xspower d6500s pushing 6 evl 12s it had to be repaired twice once under warranty once not under warranty then the 3rd time fire came out both sides 8 inches lucky its was not under the seat
Exactly what happens to mine when voltage dropps gotta get another battery got 2 batteries 390 amp alternator big big big ultra super cap and another 18 farad supper cap and an another 10 farad supper cap clips like crazy when voltage gets low
Thanks for filming this test👏🏾🙏 i have one of those amps on 4 American bass 12” subs “hawks duel 4 ohm”. I’m getting clipping whenever i turn the bass up, I am running 2 extra batteries plus I’m going to add a bigger alternator. My question to you is should I be running 2 of these amps on the 4 subs or is the one powerful enough. ?
And anyone who sat in my truck would definitely disagree with you that the Bass series is the only Taramps that can handle bass. The MD series has no problem with bass. My truck does 157.8 db at 22hz and 153.5 db @ 14 hz.
@@MadTrollGaming all my amps have been wired at .5 with no problems i don't drop below 13.8 at full tilt but even that low of a drop doesn't happen very offton depending on how low of a tone is playing but normally I don't drop below 14.2 and when the amp blew I was sitting at 14.7 I didn't even have the bass knob halfway up, although i dont know what my impeadence rise was but I don't think that played a role in my case anyways
Hey brother im new to this i have 2 dbs 2k 4omh speakers wider to 1ohm in built box 1000 rms 2000 max each was thinking about getting a tharamps 1800 1ohm any ideas brother thanks brother great view
Not sure if it’s been said already but when an amp clips it has nothing to do about impedance- you are wired higher so you see less power obviously.. but when the gain is set and voltage is good you won’t clip any earlier than you would being ran at a lower impedance Or taramps are just junk .. Great power for the dollar can’t beat it 🤟🏼
Gain, level, volume are all semantics. That old saying its not a volume lnob from the old days was only meant to prevent people from tampering with initial shop settings, but the truth is it's a low voltage input volume adjust. You just don't apply it for everyday use. The semantics needs to die
I have the same amp hooked up to 1 12 inch skar zvx dual 1 and I wired of up at 1 ohm and 2 and they are both clipping everytime and I’m losing my mind trying to figure it out please help
I would like to get you that information but I listen to a video of his every day after work so I wouldn't know which one it was not to mention I might have misunderstood what he was saying. You should send him a message. Thank you for your videos!
Hay bro I has a question. I have the 2000x4 the 2 ohms model an I have 2 DS18 8s 8 ohms an 2 DS18 10s 8 ohms as well mid-range..I want to bridge them what is the final impedance output all speaker wired separately from the box going to the amplifier. Can get some advice on that please and thank you
I run 2 md8k's 2ohm on 216ah lifepo4 and 3x180a Alternators, i was clamping 6800 rms on each amp rising at 3ohms,no led clipping at all, rca voltage 1,8v max
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And one other quick tip, put 2 more speaker terminal studs on your box, then just connect all 4 sub wires inside to the 4 terminal studs, note and mark L+L- and R+R- on the corresponding stud. This way you don't have to take sub out anymore when you want to change wiring configuration, just do it on the outside at the terminal studs
Wish you told me this back in 1996. Lol
Excellent advice thank you
Owned this beast for over a year now it pounds no issues or problems fans are not a problem they keep this beast cool at all times the only con on this amp is dont buy low rms woofers you need woofers with high wattage capability if not you will have blown $400 and up subwoofers this is a mono bass amp that takes no prisoners
I had my MD8000 1 ohm edition wired to .5 on a single Digital Designs 9915 SC , and on the same Dyno it was pushing 9,240 watts on the exact AMM-1 Dyno luckily that subs a beast because my previous Sundown ZV5 18 didn't take it for long runs it would fry also fried my Ground Zero Nuclear 15, also dynoed my SounDigital Evo 8000 at the same ohms and it did 8,200 but it did sound cleaner kinda like my Crescendo , the MD8000 does need to be hooked up to my DSP to get the bass I want , I ordered a Banda Viking 15,000 5 days ago and it gets here in two days can't wait to Dyno that awesome board
This is the first time I have seen the Tara tested in this fashion.(good real world test). I believe these amps (with the right power supply) can be used with an array of P.A. speakers to actually rock a decent sized club as long as you watch the clipping and keep it cool. It seems like that's what they were built to do by the looks of the guts of the smaller ones. I have noticed that the sound quality is determined by your input signal and how you process it because that's how P.A. amps are set up too. Great video and thank you for keeping it real and using affordable test equipment.
I agree. Input signal is very important with these amps. They are only going to amplify what is sent to them. I plan to use it with a DSP from Dayton audio.
@@BudgetBassHead maybe you got the Dayton already, if not the TH-cam channel 5star car stereo says they don’t like it. Maybe you can step it up a little and get the Rockford Dsr 1. I just picked up an alpine PXE-0850X for like $550, the dsr1 is like $320 and rising. Any dsp is better than no dsp, I think the Dayton just doesn’t have a lot of bands of eq. Once you get a dsp then you’ll learn how to use REW. All you’ll need is a $20 Dayton mic, a $5 trrs to trs splitter and a laptop and you can tune your system. Took me like 7 hours to figure out REW
Always do a good job making quality educational videos for car audio👍 appreciate taking the time to help explain to people in detail how to run their equipment and the reviews of products👍👍
It is labeled correctly. As a lot of you know, it is for matching the input level from the source. I recently helped someone with their system and they bragged that their gain was only at half so they had plenty of power left! Wow, cringe moment. I adjusted his gain, using my DD-1+ and let him know what it is so they were more informed. I have remind myself that we all start somewhere. Great video.
Every time I think about something, you do a video about it🤣🔥 KEEP IT UP LOL
Rule #1 low voltage causes distortion. Hence clipping
No. Totally wrong. Clipping occurs when the transistors cannot pass enough current.
End of story
@@papermaker85 low voltage does 100% cause distortion
Low voltage definitely causes distortion
No, it doesn't, it just makes your clipping come sooner, you get the same quality at low output, stable 11v will sound the same as stable 15v, you just can't push the amp too hard at 11v
You go in to detail where everyone understands it good work
Glad you enjoyed.
Excellent job BBH … another enjoyable, honest and informative video. Keep em’ comin - appreciate you
👍
I am using a 90ah lithium bank @ 15.6v - 16v 380amp alternator and I’ve never had any issues out of all my Taramps amplifiers. Only clips but never shuts off or anything of that class.. you should build a better power bank to do test on Brazilian amplifiers..
Good video by the way.. it was entertaining
I have this exact same amp the 2 ohm model however and I’m running 2 platinum 15’s @ 1 ohm it doesn’t clip at all unless I really get on it and even when I do it’s a “soft clip” voltage will be 12.9-12.7 I’m running 104ah headway bank stock alt amp never shuts off
@@215sinakia7 exactly.. mine clips and even the red (“protection”) light comes on and never cuts off or shuts off.. been using it for a year the same way… no issues!! Those are great amps
Your ability relay information is STELLAR
Editing has came a long way since I started watching as well. KEEP IT UP KING
There is a way to minimize the sparking when you first hook up the negative terminal. You take an automotive test light, One end goes to ground then you touch it to the negative terminal. What you're doing is charging the caps, your test lights come on for a moment, and then go out. Then you can safely hook up your negative terminal without getting the big spark. Because I'm just like you, that spark makes me jump every time😅
Taramps is a good budget-friendly amplifier but you got to have some legit electrical to push them correctly I personally have the smart 3K and love it🔊🔊🌪
Yeah me too, you gotta have a dsp though because the brazilian crossovers are so high you can still hear vocals all tthe way turned down
Thanks for the tips!
That's not actually true. They require less than the average Korean amp..barevids made a video on that recently. The killer of many taramps is improper preout voltage.
I don't doubt that one bit.. but a good electrical system ( HighOutPutAlternator, Quality Proper Wiring & Good Batterys) help them preform at there best too. I have learned that from experience firsthand.
@@xchimnyx you definitely good electrical though. My smart 3 would go into protect because of low voltage running stock lead acid battery(not agm) and 200 amp alternator a few times a day (40 minutes of driving) until I upgraded my battery to an xs6500. Headlight were still dimming and adding a yellow top helped a lot. Yes I did big 3 and at the time probably had a run of 0 and a run of 4
Tarramps amps work pretty good. I have an 8k and 2 3ks. I will warn those though. If you don't have the electrical ID say don't buy them. I have a 240 alternator. An agm up front and 6 210ah in the back. 8 runs 1/0. So far no issues. I've been running about a year. My only complaint is no bass knob. I would buy the bass though. I lost 2 md models. My fault. Running below rated ohms. So far the bass model no issues yet. I never drop below 13.1 though.
I have 2 EVL 15s in my company car. 18 fusion with stock alt stock battery under the hood and 3 sms80 in the back. The battery bank should cover about 6K. Even with the battery bank I should stay away? I was gonna get the bass 5K and run at 2 ohms, I was even thinking the 8K after watching the box rise video. If not what brand would you recommend? I’ll upgrade the battery under the hood but changing the alt will prove to be too much to be worth it on a company cat
I have a 240 alt and an agm in front-what might you suggest for the back if I get this amp?
I can use a stock alternator as long I have back up battery?
What ohm was running to lose two md models. I habe the md 5k ... but am abount taking all out upgraded everything. I already have everything on stand buy all beside the amp ... I was waiting and been waiting about can't take no more thinking going ahead doing next week ... just didn't fell like talking all of it out ... lol but old lady on me todo it she is getting my old stuff I'll be putting all in her car ... but say all this to say this .. .I' be putting in xv3 12 sundown. 1 ohm version... what amp would be best for them. .. I habe 320 amp alternator couple agm batteries plan on getting one more battery also that's one reason have not done it and I need amp and can't decide what line I won't to use I been using the md5k on 2 evils on .5 ohm they hit hard hard lol 😆 😂 can't maake.mind in run new subs 1 ohm or .25 quater ohm wonder with box rise all that should what would it come out ohm wise .5 or so idk not sure .... will md line or smart bass or what would run it at quater ohm .... any input would help thanks 😂😂
I have the hd3000 on stock alt, walmart battery, XS battery, and 0 gauge ground and power. No issues
You have no issues bc you're only getting 1k-1500k out of the amp after impedence rise
@@BoobeeMyles I ran the hd3k a .5 so was i still pulling only 1krms?
@@jorgem50 more than likely bc your alternator is stock.. & that amp is consuming 300amps or more. When you upgrade to a high output alternator, you'll notice the difference brotha
Great video, very plain English explanations. To solve your spark issues when connecting power, use a resistor of some sort (like a little handheld tester that has a probe and a lead with an alligator clip that has a small light bulb. Connect the positive power first, then clamp the alligator clip to the ground terminal of the Amp and then touch the probe to the ground source terminal or wire end that will connect to Amp The light will light up brightly and slowly begin to fade out as the capacitors within the Amp charge. When the light goes completely out the capacitors are fully charged and you can now safely connect your ground without the 4th of July taking place in your vehicle which sometimes will blow your inline fuse. Trust me, I was having the same anxieties every time I used to connect power, and the bigger the amps the harder the spark!
Good to hear man. I just built a 72ah headway pack to feed my 630 farad ultra cap which feeds everything. The lithium and the xs sb-630 easily supports my little 5k-7k system. You will LOVE the caps and lithium together. It was a bigger difference than doubling my alt power yo for real. Any questions bout either feel free to hmu. I did a grip of studying before buying any of it. And taramps hate low voltage and low impendance, any of the smart series has been proven a very decent amp and with the regulated power supply fights rise
You should love my next video 🤟
Excellent comment
This is the best test I've seen so far.
Brother you are real!
Keep up the good work and thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. 👍
No matter how many times I connect batteries and it spark bothers me every time too 😂. Keep up the good work on your videos been very helpful throughout my entire install thanks.
Use a resistor to hook up power first and it won't spark also make sure you have speakers hooked up first
You can use a fan to stop the spark also
I was looking at the Taramps bass 3k just last night because I want a new 3000ish watt amp for my VXF 15.
Ended up going with the crescendo S1V2 Plus which is 2500w. Korean board, very efficient.
I have two AGM batteries and 1/0 big three and 1/0 wire to the amp but I don't have an aftermarket alternator yet. My alternator is under some other stuff and will be a real pain to switch out I was kind of hoping to avoid it.
I keep hearing these taramps need good electrical so I'm avoiding them for now.
Nice work Mr budget. I appreciate your ability to explain complex terminology and technology in useful layman's terms.
Obviously you're joking right?
Great amp, but sometimes im just driving with low volume windows up and I can hear the fans going and it’s annoying lol
Your input voltage should be around 2 volts, 1.8v perferred.
220mv - .22v not 2v.
Keep your input voltage below 2v. They do not like the O scope!!!Thanks for the videos and Keep on bassin!!!!
Thanks for knowledgeable improvement
You should use a dual terminal block on your Toro sub to reduce wire cutting and reinstalling the sub every time you change the ohm load. Or at install threaded inserts to the wood from being stripped out from all the removing of the sub.
Barbids did video about input signal about all impedance change with input voltage
Just seen this now a year later after this first posted. Some hate and some love these. I’m in the middle. I can’t say I love them because they take shit ton of current for operating at 12v. I can’t hate on it either because my old TARAMPS smartBass 3k gave me more than it’s rated power at less than $300.00. My point here is they are cheaper and have value per watts, but is it really cheaper? To obtain the necessary wattage out of these amps you NEED the current supply. Therefore an electrical upgrade is a must if not you will clip at only 1/3 of its rated power. I upgraded to 250A from a 90A stock alt and a XSPOWER d3400 cost over $1500.00 And it still wasn’t enough. I’m now back at my stock alt with the xspower and produce 3k with the sundown salt. 🤷🏻♂️ it’s a great budget amp, but not for the average short cut budget.
They really are good amps, but dont let the size fool you… they really do 8k or more… and thats a insane amount of current.. make sure your system can take that all the way!
Need to make sure you set that input voltage on RCA's is set. Them amps don't like anything passed 2 volts of rca voltage
Thats the truth , I had same issue o-scope was ugly until I drop to 2v
I have the 2 ohm version on 4 AB Elite 12s, and It beats the hell out of them
You should make a few videos of them. Sounds crazy 👍
@@alpine0213 I plan on it, just haven't gotten to it yet
You were the first guy ever watched and still watching love ur passion
now use it as a DC to AC inverter. set the tone generator to 60 hertz, set gain until voltage is 120 v on the speaker output and power on a table saw!
8 had to buy my clip monitor and my amps are 1ohm on 90ah cmax at 15.9
Thank You Bro. I been seeing this on TH-cam & I’m Learn Something Tonight 👍👍👍
To avoid a big spark upon connecting amps or caps, put a resistor in series with the amp until caps are charged, then reconnect without the resistor.
I ALWAYS do, especially with big amps. If only more folks wised up n did the same. It's hard on more than just amps. The caps, lithium, fuses, hell even the wire
What size resistor do you recommend? Or does it depend on the size amp?
@@IAM_HC I use a 25watt 4 ohm ceramic resistor I think it was a $5 but honestly if you had an even smaller one it would work fine for charging capacitors.
Just changed my hd3000 to a smart 3 running at 2ohms. Highly impressed!!!
What the difference? I'm running a hd3000 atm
Awesome video! I really enjoyed it!
Soundqubed u series 8k for the win 🏆
Thank you great video. Agreed with you on your points.
could be rf from the fet,s in the amp, could be noise generated by the battery charger getting amplified,
I’m running an MD8k.1 with 3 12” XFL’s wired to 1.6 ohms. I have a stalk alt and 60ah of yinlong. I never go below 13v, usually not even below 13.5 and I don’t clip at all.
Stock 😬
Based on the tests I'm currently running. I believe this. 👍
Impedance rise is something else..I just use 2 amps per sub(dvc). I rather have more power than needed. But you better know about setting up amp GAINS & IMPEDANCE RISE ..GREAT VIDEO!!!!
I'm running a bass 8k taramps with a 150 amp factory alternator with a factory radio with 2.0 line converters? 400ah of reserve no voltage drop at full tilt? I believe it's because the voltage is only 2 volts taramps doesn't like radios that are 4 volts and higher?
I have a md8000.1 too. I bought 590ah of agm just in case. Stock alt.
Why agm? Why dont u go lto? Agm will put most of its power at low voltage and if u got taramps u should have higher voltage
@@KINGIJANNEE because only charge at 14.6. I have a headway 48ah bank but I'm honestly not comfortable with using lithium.
22:57 The reason it's hard to scope the taramps when setting gains and why the wave looks so weird is just because of its unfiltered PWM
The closer to the manufacturer's impedance the better it will be
I left a long message on your 6th order enclosure build and I have a smart 5K Bass and Ive got a bit to play with an audio place and would like to find a 6-8k amp for partially this reason. Ive got 2 clip indicators 😅😅.
Can I hook up a bass know to this amplifier or no?
Get the 2 ohm version of that amp. And wire to 1 ohm to combat impedance rise
NAW, LOL
I wish I would have done that. Then it's a 10k
Mannnnnnnnn, thanks a ton. Watching your video let me know why my taramp keeps going into protect mode. I have a extra 800 watt dry cell battery connected, but I see I might need to go get one more. I heard these amps were power hungry and now I see why. Thanks again
Probably 3.or 4 which amp how may Watts and what size alternator
Great content bro💪🏾definitely keep the party going give it the power it needs, Maryland ❤️ showing ❤️👍🏾
Thank you, I will 👍
@@BudgetBassHead I like to support people that read and reply to their post new to the channel and a new subscriber .Maryland showing a brother sum ❤️
My 8k is a 2ohms so i get more power on impedance rise than the 1 ohm. Make sense? Try it
My Sundown full bridge fan is always on too. Luckily it is behind my seat.
Thanks man!!! I been thinking of getting two of these!
good test and explanations
My toro r5 just shuts off below 12.6 volts. I had dirty terminals...
Unfortunately, people send a clipping signal to their subs and fry them, they will blame it on the sub because the amp is just "too powerful". They will buy new subs and fry them as well.
Subs can not destroy themselves.
Can't tell if that port is chuffing or my headphones can't take it. Nice video man, love the new bench setup.
😁
Thats true bro voltage and amps
I had overheating issues with the tarramps I switched to mmats power and never have had a problem again the damn thing won't get hot for nothing but a ton of head room and not turned up in any way lol
The knobs for the potentiometers are not built on the potentiometer itself like all the others. The knob has a very small nipple coming out of it that you are feeling the flimsiness of, It's "X" shaped that goes through the actual pot. Agree they feel cheap but they are actually internally stout. The RCAs could be panel mounted but they at least have them screwed right next to it with a thicker screw then some with those tiny ones. Get yourself a test light, charge the caps in the amp by putting the test light across the fuse connectors before installing the fuse (if you must hook it up hot, test light from wire to terminal works) The light will light up and once charged will go out. when disconnecting amps put the test light across the + and - after power is disconnected and will do the same, which will light the light and go out once discharged. Doing this eliminates that spark that I don't care who you are gets you every time even when you know it is going to happen! and discharging eliminates power just sitting in the amp.
Your DMM isn't fast enough to see the actual voltage fluctuating fyi
Had one on my dang brand new md 5k only had it one dang day and my knob on the high phase broke it didn't fall off the amp or anything all does just spind like it unconnected to whatever was connected to lol ... left a long didn't even try take out yet because didn't won't lose it ... or put up some where don't remember where I put but there anyway safety to put back on or anything like that ... thanks
call those fire amps bro, next buy sound digital amps way better 👍👍👍
Hey can someone plz explain how to measure ohms ?
set your amp up correctly and you don't have to worry about clipping....& any amp wants / needs proper voltage!
Stereo cause clipping too
I bought this amp it was on 4 xspower d6500s pushing 6 evl 12s it had to be repaired twice once under warranty once not under warranty then the 3rd time fire came out both sides 8 inches lucky its was not under the seat
Exactly what happens to mine when voltage dropps gotta get another battery got 2 batteries 390 amp alternator big big big ultra super cap and another 18 farad supper cap and an another 10 farad supper cap clips like crazy when voltage gets low
Thanks for filming this test👏🏾🙏 i have one of those amps on 4 American bass 12” subs “hawks duel 4 ohm”. I’m getting clipping whenever i turn the bass up, I am running 2 extra batteries plus I’m going to add a bigger alternator. My question to you is should I be running 2 of these amps on the 4 subs or is the one powerful enough. ?
I'm one of those that just goes buy that amp and does not feed the right voltages for it and wonders why it's not working well 🙄
Nice thats some HUGE brizillan power!! Love it.
You can use a test light b4 hooking it up and it takes the spark away
Thanks for the tip.
@@BudgetBassHead Big D Wiz from old school stereo shows how to do it in the Audiocontrol 1500.1 dyno video
Honestly still dont understand what clipping means,what does it mean?
The bass series is the only one that sounds good on subs and you can wire the 1 ohm model at .5 ohms
My bass 8k blew at .5 did fine on test tones but blew on music in seconds
And anyone who sat in my truck would definitely disagree with you that the Bass series is the only Taramps that can handle bass. The MD series has no problem with bass. My truck does 157.8 db at 22hz and 153.5 db @ 14 hz.
@@famousmoon You need to make sure you have enough rise to wire to 0.5.
@@MadTrollGaming all my amps have been wired at .5 with no problems i don't drop below 13.8 at full tilt but even that low of a drop doesn't happen very offton depending on how low of a tone is playing but normally I don't drop below 14.2 and when the amp blew I was sitting at 14.7 I didn't even have the bass knob halfway up, although i dont know what my impeadence rise was but I don't think that played a role in my case anyways
@@famousmoon I'm willing to bet you preout voltage was too high.
So I can run this amplifier on a stock alternator? At at least got 120 amp for sure. I also will get a big backup battery?
Hey brother im new to this i have 2 dbs 2k 4omh speakers wider to 1ohm in built box 1000 rms 2000 max each was thinking about getting a tharamps 1800 1ohm any ideas brother thanks brother great view
How did you wire that one speaker down to one ohm,, I have the same amp,, single speaker & has the same problem!!!????
Not sure if it’s been said already but when an amp clips it has nothing to do about impedance- you are wired higher so you see less power obviously.. but when the gain is set and voltage is good you won’t clip any earlier than you would being ran at a lower impedance
Or taramps are just junk ..
Great power for the dollar can’t beat it 🤟🏼
BB I hear you bro but my prime 500 will turn your subs back into recone kits. The editing is first edition man.✌️
Gain, level, volume are all semantics. That old saying its not a volume lnob from the old days was only meant to prevent people from tampering with initial shop settings, but the truth is it's a low voltage input volume adjust. You just don't apply it for everyday use. The semantics needs to die
I have the same amp hooked up to 1 12 inch skar zvx dual 1 and I wired of up at 1 ohm and 2 and they are both clipping everytime and I’m losing my mind trying to figure it out please help
Is it possible that the small gauge input terminals cause clipping? 8000 W amp should have at least one gauge
Thank you for making this video. I have the same amp and it's not alot of information on the web
Glad it was helpful!
an amp Taramps DS 800x4 800 W 2 OHMS Amplificateur classe D 4 canaux 800 W RMS avec 8 sub 4 ohmes 200 watts rms ? good?
Just saw on an old Barevids video that the oscopes don't like the Taramps. Something to do with the sine wave I think.
Link please 😊
I would like to get you that information but I listen to a video of his every day after work so I wouldn't know which one it was not to mention I might have misunderstood what he was saying. You should send him a message. Thank you for your videos!
And thank. 'You' for the advice.
Barevids is awesome.... However I have a wallet that chooses my amps most of the time...
Nice video man ! 😅
Hay bro I has a question. I have the 2000x4 the 2 ohms model an I have 2 DS18 8s 8 ohms an 2 DS18 10s 8 ohms as well mid-range..I want to bridge them what is the final impedance output all speaker wired separately from the box going to the amplifier. Can get some advice on that please and thank you
Like your vids keep up the good work
I run 2 md8k's 2ohm on 216ah lifepo4 and 3x180a Alternators, i was clamping 6800 rms on each amp rising at 3ohms,no led clipping at all, rca voltage 1,8v max
Right on! Feed them and treat them well and they will deliver 10 fold. 💥😁👍 I've been able to get 8702 watts out of mine.
@@Widowmaker2828 i was dropping at 13,2v, in a 15v system sure can make over 8k 😁💪
@@vasilemazilu7342 I do run external regulators at 15.5 or so volts. 😎
What song/ track you used ?
I wonder if the power supply is causing the clipping?
I have the 12k on 2 18s I’m going to get some cmax most likely
Hi there. How do you know @ what frequency your box is tuned to?
What were those things you put on your power/negative wires? I need them
Have you installed the 8k on your speakers yet I'm running 4500 watts to my vxfs and thinking of strapping 2 together to get more clean power.
Not yet. I always bench test new stuff before installing
So I can run a stock alternator with this amplifier?
They make higher impedance amplifiers you just ordered a lower one?
We would love to see a 3k DSPLX on that dyno(real Time testing)
i just bought one i have a smart 3 im gonna do a comparison video when i get my 370 amp alt from gp car audio
@@kimmyn4608 don’t think it will be a fare fight
Steve Harvey doing pro car audio 🥴🤔
Clipping not enough current