The problem with full bridge (Brazilian) amps you never thought about - Tech Stuff Tuesday
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#EMFAudio #Taramps #fullbridge - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Shout out to everyone not watching the video or barely watching it before commenting because someone angry linked you to it.
LMAO😆
Views is views 🤣
Not everyone is teachable...
Disount the ignorance....they don't understand. It's not their fault!
Trust me I found out the hard way how bad the hd performed on subs
I have a taramps 3k pushing 2 lowballer 15s and it literally blows any amp in the $200-$250 range out of the water i like your subs but i get it taramps is killing the game right now sales speak for them self i don't know where u can get a better deal .
This statement still holds water.
You just took two amplifiers and compared them. You never explained any fundamental reason why each topology was superior or better suited for a particular application. Too many variables when dealing with individual amplifier models to draw any real conclusions about half bridge vs full bridge topologies for audio amplification.
I don't believe he knows the difference in topology. He used a multimeter when he should have used an oscilloscope. That and his snarky responses to comments seem intended to feed his fanbois, nothing else. He offers no pragmatic explanations.
Still gonna run full bridge. Can't beat the price to performance.
Amen I'm running a Bass 5k and I'm getting another one soon.I can't see myself paying $500 for a 1k amp.I work wayyyy to hard for my money and I'm looking for the best bang for the buck I can get.
@James smith taramps isba great company no doubt but if its not the bass series amplifiers then its not going to do as well. All the other series amps can be used on subs but they aren't designed specifically for that purpose they are mostly designed for speakers. Same way SFB line wont sound as well as the SALT line because the SFB is designed to play everything equal while the SALT is designed to play the lows specifically.
Cant trust emf
I get the point he was trying to make, and ill agree, I've gotten better low bass from a half bridge. But that doesn't change my opinion. Full bridge is the future in terms of efficiency and size. I dont listen to ridiculously low bass. And I didnt break my wallet buying my Smart 3. Theres a use for everything out there. Just figure out what is best for you.
Spend 1000$ on full bridge amp then 1000$ on a half bridge amp and see what’s louder on lows. I get what you mean but there’s so much more to it than what you were focused on. Some cases such as sq yea half bridge all the way
I am a new owner of a md12000.1 and cant wait to see what it does on 4 15s. I seen what it can do on other builds and ive been impressed so far
Regarding the size of full-bridge amps, the reason they can be much smaller is that, unlike a half-bridge, only one power supply rail is needed. In a half-bridge, you need a bipolar supply, which doubles the number of rectifiers and capacitors to generate both positive and negative voltage rails to drive the sub. In a full-bridge that can alternate its polarity at the output, only a positive supply is needed, which saves considerable space. Toss out some of the other minor details like additional transistors for safety factor and loose the LC output filter network, and you can make the amp quite compact.
That is exactly wrong. Full bridge uses two rails out of polarity. Half bridge uses one rail referenced to ground.
@@cdbennett2332 Um ok... You might want to review your understanding of amplifiers. You have the whole thing back to front.
@@mysock351C um ok....you definitely need to review your understanding of how amps work.
i run a smart 3k and have zero complaints. running the DS 800x4 along with it.. sounds good and pretty efficient and this is moving from cab 2k and soundqubed 90.4. 12" FI Q and its down right nasty for a single 12 and smashing the lows. EMF keep up the good vids !
Did you hear any difference in the “lows”? I wish this argument could be put to rest
@@tcblackg35 not at all. sounds fine to me
in Brazil the most common is to use woofers for bass, 60hz to 90hz, subwoofers are not used much, in Brazil most people like to open the trunk of the car to listen to music, so they prefer bass in this frequency range, the bass goes more far
Correct!
If u want a Tramps fot BASS u get a BASS TARAMPS NOT the mids and high Model
LOL
Saw that comin XD
👀
Hahaha hey it's Sam a REAL Amplifier expert!
Barevid's EMF response
th-cam.com/video/IQoA-LyBaJs/w-d-xo.html
2 hours 18 min in until 2 hours 48 min
Been using taramps smart 3k wired to 1 ohm with box rise it sees around maybe 1.6 1.8 ohms been running audio control eqx dsp been using the amp since it came out have had no heat no bad bass issues im using 2 skar evl dual 4 12s in a 4.5 cube ported box amp has been running perfect for years now
you should double check where the high pass (infrasonic) crossover was really set at by either running a sweep on an Audio Precision or simply running it wide open without having the high pass filter turned up to anything and redoing your test. Just because you set the dial to 10 hertz or 15 hertz it doesn't mean in actuality the attenuator crossover knob is set at exactly that point. I have seen Kicker , Fosgate and even some JL audio amps where the crossover setting on the amp did not match the actual frequency it was being crossed over. Furthermore even if what you showed is actually accurate it doesn't prove that the Taramps can't play bass well. Your argument should be more on the reliability side which is a fair argument but not because it drops a few volts while playing low frequencies. It was still playing much more output power than your amp that is much more expensive.
when are you going to do a podcast with 12v talk or everyday audio
Well you are an expert at the packaging saying one thing and the product actually being something else.
Did Rockville seriously come to the party?? LMFAO
@@EMFAudio Your response has nothing to do with the comment that I made. Good day sir.
@@rowboyto156 When I have time. Been very very busy.
Run a real crossover on full bridge amps and run in Subwoofer out for subs, and run them in mids for mids and highs for highs.
Great video. Thank you for the info.
This video is not accurate. You are comparing crossover fq response. And yes its absolutely possible to correct response with dsp
Watch the video again, all of it, and pay attention.
You absolutely are having your results affected by crossover. If you have a high pass filter set it will start to roll off the voltage above the set point of 10 hz. This could explain the dip at 20hz. Doesn't really prove any thing about half bridge vs full bridge. If the taramps hp filter is not defeatable that could be a limitation of the amp but not really the technology. Plus a sample size of two is too small to really prove anything beyond a comparison of the two amps.
Great vid!
In my case, the reason why I bought the Smart3 is because of size and weight. The past bass amplifier was huge and weighed like a cinder block while the Smart3 is small and weighs pretty much like a brick.
The same reason I want to also convert all my ferrite speakers to Neo.
The Smart3 up to now has been working great for my sub-bass. But obviously my bass could perform better with a dedicated bass specific amplifier. But I already stated my reasons why I’m using the Smart3 above. We all have different goals and reason why we use what we use even if sometimes it does not seem practical. The good thing is, as of lately the bass amplifiers which are dedicated to sub-Bass are getting smaller and the EMF one shown in this video is not that big so it’s a great choice in terms of size and performance.
Smart 3 $270
2000af $499
Another biased review coming you way from emf.
Smart 3 at your door in 3 days
2000af at your door in maybe 3 months (preorder only)
3 weeks is pre-order length on those,but nice try.
Boss 4k $89, another stupid comment coming your way from Sir Digg
EMF Audio taramps md 8k $480. Compare your amps to something more in its price range is all I’m saying.
Honestly I have a lot of different set ups I’ve collected over the years for each car I’ve owned. I just bought 4 yard sale ev6 8s and taramps 3k for a crew cab about 3 months ago. I can say for the money it’s one my favorite setups. Not my loudest. But so far hasn’t ran hot or had any issues.
Box specs? Doing a build now for a buddy with this same setup in a single cab with 3.5ft3 tuned to 34
Matt Pierce no seat lift 07 GMC Sierra crew cab 2.2 cubes after displacement tuned to 31hz
For anybody that cares to read this...
This video has absolutely nothing to do with half bridge vs full bridge!
half bridge and full bridge refers to HOW the amp makes the power, just 2 different ways of making power, quite similar but different, in lay mans terms, full bridge is simply a half bridge configured in bridge mode. Both half and full bridge "amplifiers" will do exactly that, AMPLIFY!
what this video does touch on, is internal preamp quality!
all modern day amps have some sort of internal preamp, and no, you cant really seperate the 2 without thoroughly knowing what you are doing. these amps are manufactured to economics first, in most cases. yes the EMF amp has a great preamp, but everyday music very seldom goes below 40ish hz. couple this together with the market, not everbody wants a 5hz fire spitting monster!
In order to use 5-35hz, there are plenty of other, and more costly requirements, that have to be in place FIRST, before purchasing an amp thats capable of driving that frequency range!
Generally, car audio amps:
1. Do what they say STRICTLY
2. Do what they say LOOSELY
3. Dont do what they say at all!
its all about the cost and profit margin and absolutely nothing else!
this videos is true in all of the SCIENCE, but very misleading in the EXPLANATION! in my honest opinion, just really good market reseach or really bad stab at the opposition! this guys a loose canon after that SMD DD1 stunt!
the EFM amp does what it says strictly! the Taramps does what it says LOOSELY! both do, do what they say it will do and thats rare in this market today!
Cost for cost, and as per the numbers, i say TARAMPS for the win. but make no mistake that EMF amp is sweet!
I gotta say I'm running an SFB 3000.1 on my two Deaf Bonce SA-275's and it hammers the lows. Not to mention it's efficiency is absolutely blowing me away as well.
Note specifically what was said. It doesn't say it doesn't play it, it doesn't play it.... as well.
EMF Audio You do realize this all boils down to the pre amp section and no the actual amplifier section right? Not to mention all you proved it that the Taramps has a fixed subsonic filter. That’s why it dropped off power on the low frequencies, it was starting to roll off .The Taramps can and will play on subs just fine if you know how to properly tune it.
I do feel the md , smart 3 is a mids n highs amp
I’m not big on them for bass , should compare the bass series also
You are totally right…!!!! I’m also installer and I tried to explain that to most of my customer.
Thank you for this video I’m sending this to everyone I see running a taramp.
BigDWiz did the dyno at 40hz and the amp does well over rated at all ohm loads particularly 1ohm. In dynamic it was pushing 5-6k which IMO should more than compensate for any frequency fluctuations bellow 40hz and raise. Can you explain with this in mind? Because logically the dyno results refute your conclusions.
Watch the in depth review , itll explain its ability to make double the power.
Guy answered my questions beyond a doubt. Have l7s 12”s and was powered by a kicker cxa1200.1 and switched to the smart 3 taramp and the cxa was way deeper and louder and couldn’t figure why until now.. thanks!!
Just put a crossover on the amp. Case solved
Been running my smart 3 bass for a while now , never let it drop below 13 volts and it's been a solid workhorse
My hd3000 works fine for subs, i even used it on my sony monitors at 16 ohms and it sounded pretty good also no overheating problems
So you didn't pay attention to the point of the video?
@@EMFAudiojust because he didn’t say what you wanted him to say doesn’t mean he didn’t watch the video you funny boy
@17:27
This is an 8% difference in VOLTAGE. Ohm's law tells us power = E^2/R the difference between 51V and 55V in POWER is 500W or around 25%.
Now that said, this translates into about .6dB which is going to be nearly inaudible.
Brazilian full range amps attenuating on either end of their published """frequency response""" has been a known issue since they started selling them, but priced at as low as 5 cents a watt people are going to keep buying them, hopefully understanding their limitations. As far as actually trying to run full range, every single one of these 3000W per door builds I've seen in person have just been as many cheap PA mids and horns or super tweeters as possible crammed into doors or trunk lids, they have all sounded absolutely awful. I think the people going for that effect aren't really looking to sound good, just to get painfully loud as cheaply as possible.
CONGRATULATIONS 👏... YOU ARE AWESOME.. THAT'S TOTALLY TRUE WHAT YOU SAID THIS COMMENT NEEDS TO BE ON TOP. finally someone explain the right way,.. this is exactly what I try to tell people but,, ohh well . MANY thanks ..
I agree with Ricardo you hit the nail on the head. This 6% reduction is a non-issue because the Brazilian amps are so much cheaper per watt it doesn't matter. I'll take a .6 db loss any day if it comes with a 40-50% increase in wattage per dollar. In the end Brazilian amps are more powerful dollar for dollar and sound the same to me as all the other Korean amps I've had. And they go low and create crazy hair tricks... If anyone doesn't believe me feel free to check my videos on TH-cam.
@@Widowmaker2828 they don’t at all sound the same bud lol. But ok. Cool story.
Im running smart 3 with two sa15d4rev3 @ 4ohm. With my Pioneer avh2300 nex i have no vocals coming through my subs and they slam low frequency. Taramps did however address what your saying and cam up with the smart bass 3k. It supposed to be more for subwoofer and produces low frequency. Ive had nothing but goodness from the smart 3k. However the rp2000 from skar did not do so well. Love your videos i might have to try out emf amp.
I understand what your saying, everyone going to have thier own opinions. All this video is telling you are facts. I run 3k smart amp and no reason for anyone to get butt hurt. Its a good amp. All hes saying is try an amp designed for low frequency and subwoofers. Using it for music like i do is great but if your trying to get really low freq the 3k wont hit it. Try a subwoofer amp and see the difference for yourself is all. Keep all negative nasty comments to yourself. No one made you watch this and no one is forcing you to comment so dont. Keep up the great work love your informational videos, thank you
I understand the video and the comments from those opposing the test. 2 things, what about full bridge amps made for bass vs a half bridge made for bass? They cost a little more but still not as much as a half bridge usually of half the size of a full bridge. Number 2, what it you set the low pass and turn the high pass all the way down? Would the results be different? Just asking. I'm debating between a new Vulcan 8k, a MD 12000 1 and a Teampie 7500.1. I have 3 2ohm 2000 watt RMS 12"s
I just bought my 1st full bridge amp. Taramps big boss 3k. I am so blown away in EVEY ASPECT! Im 43 and been into car audio for years. Ill never buy another brand again other than Taramps. They blew away any korean amp i ever owned.
So with the taramp what if you did your gain adjustment on a higher hz to make up for the higher voltage on certain hz and bass boosted on the lower hz would that make up for the low power on lower frequency
Not angry at all, still love my Taramp. It hit hard enough that I should use ear protection, what more do I really need or want.
I’ve been using a smart 3k on 2 18s skar evls at 1ohm for a year no issues and in my hummer a md 5000.1 running 2 18 skar zvx s and there slamming everyone try taramps you will love them
And yes I was running all skar skv 4500 and my taramps smash them
Im running two md12.000 no problem keep em full of power noprob
I have hd3000, its great amp!
@@yourmom-ii8ep about how much power or amp hours would I need to run a single 15 American bass HD on a 3k taramps md? I'm dimming a little with a 70 ah agm in my trunk and cranking battery under the hood. Am I better off running the agm by itself instead?
@@Frances_P did you do the big 3 upgrade? Then upgrade alternator then batteries
Smart 3k On 2 10 Subs , im happy as ever!
Got it for dirt cheap and if fit my small area that i had intended for the amplifier.
I will be installing a battery on the back soon cause the thing jugs power.
I just boosted the lows as the guy in the vid says .... no need for a 400$ half bridge, got my smart 3k at 140$
But your sound quality is garbage compared to even the cheapest half bridge amp
@@chrispeters1020 ngl hits good
Please do a video on comparing how clean/dirty signals are just before clipping between EMF and a Taramps using an oscilloscope. I ask because I was setting the gain on my Taramps Bass 8K to 3 "clicks" before clipping using my new Liumy oscilloscope and at the top of every wave has a very thick dark spot which may or may not represent a dirty signal. (looks as if each wave were a snow covered mountain top if that makes sense, I can send you a photo of what it showed if interested) Would greatly appreciate it, (along with acknowledgement).
I would be interested to see that photo. That may be a function of the scope. A lot of the dirty that comes from cheap amps isn't just in the sinewave you're looking at.
Good info. Ppl get too hung up thinking it's brand bashing, instead of the actual purpose of the information provided.
What actual information did he provide?
@James smith I don't care if he even did all that. Watch a voltmeter during a sweep means nothing about frequency response within reason.
You guys are seriously hung up on this he literally is just talking about the response in a given spectrum get over it everyone with full bridges getting butt hurt
That why the manufacturer added bass boost with a frequency range to compensate for the low end drop off. It is a midrange amp,in the country that it is designed they dont run too many big subwoofers. They mostly Low mid to mid range set ups with multiple speakers needing these types of amplifers.
I’ve experienced this. My lows hit way lower with just a regular class d mono amp and lower power. Was always curious about that
It's due to your low pass being tuned incorrectly on the amp. Watch barvids on the taramps and he explains it.
If subs are the intended use, SMART BASS series or MD series are the Taramps amplifiers to get. That being said, a SMART 3K BASS sells for around $380 when I last checked, making it a kinda average deal to me. I'd be more likely to buy a JP23 V2 for $350 (mainly due to personal preference things like crossover filters, build quality and familiarity).
The JP amps are also on my short list. I'll gladly pay a little extra for a higher build quality with better components. I don't want to pay multiples extra where most of my money goes to supporting a brand name.
So let me get this right... You want me to spent 79% more money than the Taramps Smart 3 for your 2000 watt amp because you found the Taramps make 8% less power at low frequencies? Not to mention even at an 8% loss the Taramps amp makes 760 more watts than your amp. No thanks. I'll save $221 and have an amp that's still almost 150% more powerful than yours.
And the kicker is even at the supposed 8% loss Derrick at Williston audio Labs was able to get over 3184 watts out of the Taramps Smart 3 at 40 hz!
Taramps for the win!
Get the taramps and try to get the lower frequencies, that's not going to happen,, my ppi 1500.1 is way stronger the 3k bass taramps
@@ricardojuarez291 My Taramps MD 8000 is almost knocking my door off at 20 hz
@@Widowmaker2828 I own a old school orion hcca 5000.1 as well I wish we can compare quality vs power...
I don't think you understand the purpose of the video. Quality over quantity in the car audio world. Loud or not its a dogshit signal, but I guess it works if you're running Skar audio pro midranges or Rockville subwoofers.
@@Widowmaker2828 what I will never install is my rockford Fosgate power 4000.1tb.. NEVER IT demands to much power but I'm keeping it..
i have a smart 3k for the house wired to .4 across 18 subs that i use daily, has been on 24/7 for months now and never had it get hot or protect, tbh i've never even clipped on it yet haha. i have 2 bass 8k wired to .5 (12 inch hd 12s in a 4th order) in the car with absolutely no issue, and again ,they don't get hot. for the house setup i have the input hooked to the receivers sub output to help keep the voices out of the woofers, admittedly anything non "bass" brand you will probably have issues keeping the voices out without doing something similar. but genuinely in my house 20 hz is a non issue, but i'll note the voltage( power output) on the taramps, while not as steady, is damn near or the same as the emf, and then higher. now as far as taramps build quality, it's suspect but that's also apart of the price you shell out for said amp. also as far as equaling out the bandwidth issue (that i have not experienced) you can bass boost a certain frequency and use that handy dandy clip light to help you along your wonderful journey. also the "throttling" you are seeing on the taramps smart 3k, is that the processor limiting output for some reason? you did not measure amps so you can't quite count that possibility out.
also, terrible wire size on the smart 3k, personally running 0 gauge that stuff looks like what i use for my mids/highs amp in my girls car (also a taramps lmao)
This video makes me really miss the 90's ppi orion and Rockford
Viva old linear power ear candyyyy
I'm selling a orion 250r
Yeah the "good old days" of 1$ per watt (what's that today with inflation?) and 50% or less efficiency. Nostalgia aside, there is no reason to own any of those products with today's technology and that's coming from a guy who owned all of those back in the late 80's early 90's.
@@unkowntrooper1657 how much?
@@hispls I kinda see your point... technological advances.
Video killed the radio star 🤷♂️
Had smart 3k on a sp4 v1 15 & now changed to a half bridge & it was a big difference in performance, I am hitting more of the lower notes with more authority
What’s your box tuning. To me lows are 18-26 hz.
All I use is Korean boards of half bridge .What I like the most is no fans constantly running clip indicating bass knob staying cool to the touch after hours of hard tilt plus they can be run .5 ohm loads with. Proper electrical..Tried the smart three once and it was noisy and didn't sound good.
What would you recommend? Need a 1 ohm stable amp , my 2 subs are a total of 2000rms and 5000 peak. My electrical is a 250 amp alternator an 1 xsd3400 under the hood so my electrical should be more than fine, all ofc 0gauge and big 3 already done......
Im so confused, it looks like you have both rcas plugged in, one into the input and one in output. Is the output for left or right or is it to hook to another amp? I just have one running to input....
the only amp from the Brazilian line I will play my bass with is the powerUs amps because they were made for that.
just convinced me to buy a Taramps 3K, thanks for the video LMAO
I have told people not to use speaker amplifiers bridged to run subwoofers for this reason as well as damping factor. The only correction I have is that every Alpine head unit I have ever tested DOES output full range on the subwoofer channel when the low pass is set to off or flat. Maybe your model is different as I have not tested that model to my knowledge. But every one I have ever tested is full range on all outputs as long as the crossovers are off or flat.
51.5v is still over 2600 watts of power at 20hz
The biggest problem with full-bridge amps is the sound quality. I went with a Pheonix Gold Ti3 1300.1 which puts out 1488ish watts at 1 ohm and it makes my Fi Neo 3.5 12 inch sub hit real hard and sound clean and smooth. Pheonix Gold Ti3 1300.1 is a half-bridge amplifier with high-quality components sprawled out for maximum sound quality. Pheonix Gold Ti3 amps are amazing.
Did you try a full bridge on the same sub?
This is definitely more in depth than other amp tests but definitely not impartial. It’s basically an EMF commercial, as more of these videos are now. I own Honda cars but I would never ask the dealer what he thought the best car was for me before buying one.
Just because you don't see the result you want doesn't mean it's impartial.
I wasn’t looking for a specific result. I am not in the market for an amp nor am I a fanboy of any brand. I buy after researching. As a consumer it would be unwise to buy solely on testing done by a manufacturer.
I'm running 2 smart 8k's on 2 18" subs. The sound is sooo impressive for the price.
The sound quality was my biggest issue. Makes a 32 hz box sound like 45hz prefab. Did get my wrong it loud probably great for numbers but needs to sound good first
very well said
Waiting for Sam to come educate you once again.
Ive had a few conversations with Sam, extremely knowledgeable and very polite guy! Ive followed emf for a while but his biased reviews are getting a little bitter. Despite having a full bridge amplifier in his line up he went after a taramps? Wouldnt a fairer test be 2 from the same manufacturer to reduce the variety of component selections and focus more on the architectural design of the amplifier
@nate0 thats not at all what i said. I said, in order to compare amp designs... You know, like the title suggests, you should choose amps that have similar specs. To reduce variables. However i will admit the taramps are often of questionable quality. They still have the same return policies as most amps. But this video is comparing full bridge vs half bridge.
Will you argue he's wrong when he shows you something you don't like too?
@@EMFAudio wrong is wrong and right is right. You know the internet is not scared to call it out
@nate0 The smart 3 does full power at all loads between 1 and 2 ohms.
Full bridge amplifiers have been around for a long time. Any somewhat modern head unit uses full bridged amplifiers. Super reliable. Maybe there is a difference between the different Brazilian manufacturers when it comes to.quality or reliability. I don't currently run any Brazilian Full Bridged amps, but I think this video is a little biased since you are showing off your own re-branded amplifiers.
I am between a Taramps Bass15k and a Sound Design evo X 12k. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Suggestion for future video:
- Do a SPL comparison between these two amps
- Compare the distortion between the same two amps
A few notes I made while watching the video:
- Yes, the Taramps Smart 3 is a joke given its specs
- The Taramps is half the price of the EMF
- Taramps max Vrms out = 55V => ~3000W RMS (if @1ohm) (no load), falls off >1000Hz (so what if used for sub?)
So, why not compare the output power with load... (keeping in mind the Taramps is half theprice)?
You definitely need to watch the video james linked. You obviously don't know much about the smart 3
In what way is the smart 3 a joke?
How the hell is it a joke?
I enjoyed this video! What about full bridge on mids and highs? Can you make a video as well?
That's what they're made for, but as I mentioned in the video with the limited high end they'd be best suited on mids only, no tweeters.
So should we buy the EMF bass amp?
So what happens if you compensate for the low frequency rolloff with eq? Seems to me the built in subsonic filter will cause that, and you need to adjust for it. I've run full range mmats, precision power, and others for low frequency duty, but have also run older earthquake and mtx class d amps. I did have to adjust low end on the class d amps, but my full range amps also didn't have built in subsonic filters. Most class d amps seem to have compulsory subsonic rolloff built in.
And yeah, I watched the entire video...
It is the subsonic filter. Taramps has strange crossovers, they start rolling off way before the frequency you set, and they are a very slow slope.
Try the smart bass line from taramps.
I run taramps md1800.1 and md3000.1 and man these amps out perform any other that I’ve tried. It works great on my subs only and they both sound great. I’ve ran it neck to neck with a JL audio amp, and it just doesn’t compare for the price. Taramps all day for the win!
could you please please check out class h , class d , class td amplifiers from professional power amps. with the crossover distortion levels.
My Taramps fits under my seat, same size as my old alpine 600w RMS amp, it pushes out 4000 watts at 12.6 volts (mind you only for a 5 second burp) off my 1 lead acid battery vehicle off, I run at 1200w RMS on my stock electrical and don't get any voltage drop at all. It was cheaper than my 600w amp (which made my voltage drop) and it kicks ass! Personally I don't see any problems :)
How are you so sure those power numbers are accurate? Did you measure those numbers in your car during use yourself? Your old Alpine I'm sure was a class A/B, which is less efficient. It could be 50-60% efficient and even lower if you were using it below rated impedance. Even the most terrible cheap class D's are 60-70% efficient. 20% difference is a lot of amperage, certainly the difference in exhausting an alternator. So why does all of that matter? Longevity. Top fuel dragsters have 500 cu. in. engines making over 10,000 HP, when an engine that size in the 60's may have made 400 HP. But that engine from the 60's could still be running today where that top fuel engine gets rebuilt after idling for a few minutes then going 1/4 mile. A top fuel engine wouldn't last 10 miles.
@@EMFAudio yea I have 2 fluke meters, so just measure the volts and current on output of amp. When I was setting gains I seen around 78 volt and 52 amps, this scared the shit out of me, 2 bass thumps and it was in protect
Full-bridge inverters are more efficient than half-bridge inverters because they can utilize the entire DC voltage swing, from 0 volts to the peak voltage
They're also more accurate under 100hz and have LESS components than half bridge. This is one of the worst videos ever and I really wish people would watch BareVids and read white papers instead of listening to someone who doesn't know what they are talking about.
I have a Wolfram o2400 wired to 1.33 ohm for about 8 months now with just 8 gauge wire! No problems at all, best amp I've had yet.
Is this issue unique to taramps or with all full bridge amps like sundown sfb?
Some are a little better than others From what I’ve read regarding signal
Personally wish he tested a taramps bass amp
I definitely would do your own research, bias everywhere lol
I’ll run taramps anyday , Korean is much better but I can get a bass 15k under $1500 and be wrecking everything with good electrical
See what a half bridge 15k cost lol
Would this be true of the Smart 3 Bass amplifier? I don't know the difference between half bridged or full bridged amps ,, just curious , thanks
I know some Brazilian are worse than others about it, it's a case by case basis.
8% less power on the lows and 50% the cost of your amp 😭 love it
Man, I would really love it if I could work for Sean, roofing sucks but it's all I got rn. Maybe one day...
But yea, not gonna lie, when I swapped out to my Smart 3, it increased the power yes, but felt like I mainly gained from port tuning onwards 40Hz+ but the low end felt the same, had to up the gain to boost the lows, then the higher frequency were brutal. I ended up tuning my box lower which solved the problem, but I guess now I could overpower subs on the higher 40hz+. I defiantly did feel it was getting less power on the low notes compared to higher notes.
Was my testing scientific...? No, because my box was tuned high to begin with, but even with the box tuned lower I feel like 30hz is getting 8% less power than 45hz for e.g. Was your testing scientific? In my opinion no, there was no load on the amplifier, it would have been a much more accurate also on the bass side to go up in frequency 5hz at a time, on the sweeps you can't visually what frequency its at, it doesn't matter if it looses 5v on 10 - 20hz. But personally the way I see it, the amplifier on their website says its intended use is subwoofer, its 1 channel, has bass boost adjustment, its right RCA signal only, everything points to it being used for a 10 - 100hz application
You experience the same results I showed. You said the lows seemed the same but higher frequencies were louder, and you said you had more power. That means lows had the same power as before but higher frequencies had more power, which is exactly what was demonstrated. You're making excuses to justify being wrong because it isn't what you want to hear but you experienced the same exact thing.
@@EMFAudio but yea only running stock electrical so running around 1000 to 1200 watts so power increased from my old 600w amp but yea lows were slightly louder obviously the amp isn't that out, I was pushing more to low freq but now I could feel a big difference between high freq and lows where are before was even all round 'good band width'
Come on people, he is not saying taramps suck, he is not saying it won’t work. What he is saying is the power is not consistent in all of the low frequencies, and a half bridge amp instead of a full bridge amp will give you more consistent power at all low frequencies. It is painfully obvious who watched the whole video and who didn’t.
You compare the taramp bass 3k to the emf 2k.
What about full bridge amplifiers intended for bass applications?
I've had great results with taramps,I have an hd3000 in one car and a smart 3 in my other car. They are my first 2 full bridge amps,I always traditional bass amps. I swapped a bass amp out for my hd3000 and it got louder and sounded just as good. I've never had a bass amp as good as a emf amp so I can say if their anywhere near the sound quality as your amps,I honestly doubt the taramps would perform as good but wen it comes to the cost and being on a budget I don't think any other amp can even come close to the sound or sound quality that u get from taramps. I paid under $300 for my smart 3 ,if u watch bigD's dyno on the smart 3 he got over 5000 watts outa that amp.what is the cheapest amp EMF amp that'll do 5k ? I will garantee you can't get a 2k for that price,and I'm not bashing EMF,if I had the money I'd probably run all EMF in my cars .but ppl like me can't do that. I've had my hd3000 for almost 4 years now and it's been amazing
You should know that those dyno figures are misleading, and can be manipulated. You can get some cheap Chinese amps to show that power for cheap too, but there are things to consider. How reliable will they be? Are they efficient or not? Will they go into thermal protection with some use? Will the output signal be clean or will it kill your subs? That's what you get with a better amp, clean, efficient, reliable power. With the AF amps you also get our bass knob that shows voltage, temperature, and those amps feature a clip limiting button so you won't clip your subs to death. Ultimately, it's cheaper to buy a better amp than to maybe buy another amp or have to upgrade electrical more, or replace/repair subs too.
@@EMFAudio I understand wat your saying and believe me I'd love to have one of your amps over my taramps,I just can't afford it at the time. But to reply to all the things u said could happen,and your rite,those things can definitely happen but I've had my taramps hd3000for almost 4 it never gets hot or goes into protect,I've never blown subs,I had 4cheap planet audio 12's on it at first then 3 lanzar optidrive 12's and I have 2 rockford fosgate p3 12's on it I never blew any of those subs so my experience has been great. But I'd still rather have your amp. And in my opinion I highly doubt bigD wiz would manipulate and results,he has nothing to gain in doing that. He's dyno both the hd3k and the smart 3
You can get a skar rp2k for 200 that puts out like 3200 at .8ohm. It's what I'm running and it sounds great but I love the lows.
I would like to see how the taramps bass series differs to the full range one tested here either way EMF all the way but I'm curious thanks again for a top vid very informative and interesting...and I'm still crying that I cant buy EMF in England 🤦♂️🤷♂️🙄👏👏👏👏👏
Don't even waste your time with taramps.. trust me
@James smith taramps can give the results for slp... I don't need to see videos it all, I prove it, I have my own ossiloscope and different top brand amps,.. it looks like you haven't try another amps.. get some old school ones either one class a-b o class D from 2007 or earlier... Let's do it this way,, taramps smart 3k vs ppi pcx1500.1 @2 ohms... Taramps it won't give you 3k.. what a hell noooo,,, probably 1400 max at 14.4.. if you have a subwoofers that is rated at 1200 watts RMS it might sound good..
@James smith bro really. Scientificly 800 watts will destroy your longs... Even will make your ears bleed,.. RMS using pink and white noise that's another story... If you have a subwoofer with 8" voice coil, probably I believe it.. DJ and big concerts are running 350 watts max. Imagine that
@James smith come on bro... I said 07 or earlier.. those are made by power acoustic, shitty amps.. pcx models
@James smith I do try the 3000hd taramps but It demandas to much current.. I try the bass 3k and the same shit... Don't said that I didn't have them.. one of my customers saw it on videos like you, he wants it oh well, that's on him.. his mx re sub sounds like shit with this taramps 3k bass and he sold his rockford Fosgate 1500.1db for like 150 bucks..
That wasn't smart it all..
Those things still put out insane power to dollar ratios even if they don't peak in power around 20-30hz. In a lot of vehicles, tones that low often get muffled by the dash board or the peak completely misses the intended listening area. Optimally placed in the trunk of my friends Scion coupe, for example, I've measured the distance coming from the trunk to where your head would be driving, and the optimal peak of the lowest tones were between 40hz-50hz. At least with the amp you tested, he wouldn't really have noticed a drop that hard going from the loudest low tones to the upper bass.
Well, they're rated for insane power. Even so, top fuel dragsters are rated for 10,000 HP and they get about 2 minutes of run time before they rebuild them.
I love my subs too much too put then on an unsafe amplifier design... I enjoyed!
He's mad taramps is killing it rn!! So mad he tryna convince you to buy something else an of course he uses an amp with his logo on it 🤡
I have the taramps big boss and it's very strong , and have huge bass ,very reliable 😅😅
Agreed 👍
I tried taramps 5 different times and i finallly came to the conclusion taramps where not for me lol ..As far as other full bridge i cant personally speak from experience....But half bridge for me is definitely where u get your moneys worth in my opinion...
When you strap two amp you go from half bridge to full bridge or do you stay at half bridge?
In a sense strapping is a full bridge
2 amps strapped is full bridge, basically.
@@EMFAudio So strapping two of your amps make them perform worse??
@@kimt6333 sometimes strapping can cause instability issues, depends on the amp. The architecture of a full bridge amp vs strapped half bridge are different though.
Ive always wondered how dampening factor works on these brazilian amps. Do they even control the sub good?
I personally think they only thing good they do is get people to spend money on cheap amps then realize how much better quality more expensive amps are.
@@EMFAudio yeah im good with my quality class D. Last forever controls the sub good and doesent have rca whine issues or hidden distortion. Also you just endup spending more when you realize your alternator and battery is fried after a couple months from that ineffeincy. Then you have to upgrade allll that stuff which you shoulda done in the first place which like i said costs more than just getting a class D lol. I never trusted this brazilian amp craze im good
@@DirtySouthFlorida3 but you trust someone that clearly won't answer a simple question? I've been running a Taramps MD1800.1 for a few months and have had zero problem. No electrical issues whatsoever ( voltage says around 14v with car running) no noise from the RCAs, no excessive heat, no protect issues. Pushes my subs pretty damn good and they don't seem to distort, nor have they bottomed out
@@DirtySouthFlorida3 you do realize the taramps is a class D right? Also it’s more efficient than most other class Ds. No crap you’ll need upgraded electrical youre pushing 3000 actual watts…
*Taramps HD 2000 running 2 ohms Skar SDR's 12's. Never had a problem or complaint*
Can you do this test again with a sundown SFB amp?
We don't sell Sundown anymore.
Man I can’t catch a break lol I just got the taramp hd3000 now I think I’m regretting that purchase along with the Rockville punishers...
At least you have enough money left over for a fire extinguisher lol
I have the HD3000 and a Rockville Punisher 15D1 I love the two together. I’m not trying to impress anybody. Just enjoying some good Bass and it does make Good Bass
@@elsey1976 Man that knocked my socks off😂
My smart 3 is the best amp i have ever owned in my 20 years of being in car audio hobby. I have it on 2 evl 18s and its awsome. Not one problem so far. Thanks
But the md 1800 did lack on the lows but its made for highs. And on high bass it was amazing.
@@Only1Shogun6 yeah that’s expected the md is mostly for the higher frequencies that’s why they got a bass series aha
Thanks for the info so the sundown full bridge amplifier is for mids
Wondering that myself I would’ve liked to of seen this test done with an SFB
But to answer your question yes. Just like the MD line of taramps the SFB can play everything. the bass series will play lows better just as the SALT series would play better on subs than the SFB. Also the taramps bass series is has the highest amplifer power for SPL which is why you will find them in SPL competition over the other taramp lines. The whole point of the video is that a full range amp wont play bass as well as a specified bass amp. Not that it cant but it wont do it as well.
Sundown isn't Taramps.
Taramps has built in fan that's solid for using for subs what are you talking about??? And there reliable af with the right power running to it .💪🏽💯👍🏽
The large majority of taramps are made for speakers except for the bass series. The fans arent necessarily for the bass because the majority of installs where taramps are used they are used for powering low mids, mids, and highs and not so much bass. The majority of these installs are done in places with hotter temperatures.
@@chadbeverly4926 dude, just about all of their amps are made to handle subs. The bass line is just sub specific.
@@beardedforlife3740 thank you brother 🤣👍🏽
Can't a dsp fix that issue ? Or a lc2i?
The formula to reach target voltage is the Power x Ω √ ??? (watts x ohms (squared). for example - (P) 440watts x 4ohms = 1760√ … squared = 41.95 volts as target voltage.
Use a 40Hz test tone??
Thank you for doing a specific viedo regarding bridging!!!
Brother you know your stuff I'll give you that and you were kinda right but still wrong full bridge amplifiers and half bridge amplifiers are different because they use a different process in there switching to create alternating current the full bridge internally bridges your negative ground leads giving you 2 positive outputs phased 180 degrees apart where as a half bridge or negative ground amplifier uses a positive poll and a negative poll almost like Dc current accept they two polls have opposite charges at any given time during the sine wave so if you have +15 volts at the positive lead your negative will be at -15 volt ad the voltage potential between the two polls give your switching action when's you strap 2 half bridge amps you create a full bridge amplifier and actually most people don't know that with a full bridge amp running 3k you'll use upwards of 20%less current to achieve the same voltage potential as a half bridge amp that's sort of a quick run down it's much more complex also you do know that taramps have a bass 3k that is designed to run sub frequency so yes in a way your right but in the same sence your wrong because an aplifiers switching ability only dictates an amplifiers ability to put out power at higher frequency and it's method of creating a voltage potential differential are two separate aspects when you strap two half bridge amplifiers that are geard up for low end you don't suddenly have a high frequency machine. It's almost like the myth that monoblock amplifiers are for subs and no good on mids and highs or vice versa though they commonly don't produce 4channel sub amps and 1 channel tweeter beaters so I feel your expertise is better kept in the subwoofer/driver side of audio and amplifier / inverter technology is better kept in us electrical engineering's side of the craft
I think you've misinterpreted what I was saying and what I was showing. The bottom line is, look at the results.
100% correct!
I've seen wierd feedback in full bridge under 100 Hertz while hooked up on a scope. How that translates to music idk, I wont run full bridge. To my ears they just do not sound well. Maybe that's because I'm oldschool and would choose ab over class d. Who knows.
Very interesting video, I would have never thought you would loose that much power under 100 hertz.
@nate0 ya I had the same issue. One channel it also showed up as a soft clip with my scope but not on my smd dd1
@nate0 it seemed to be worse as I introduced voltage into the amp settling abit as I got closer to the 14 volt. But when taking readings off the rail I found it again. I figured a leaking cap might have caused the issue as I have seen similar with early amps when the caps would leak or a pot was dirty. BUT after double checking everything in the amp I couldn't locate the source. All I could figure is the way they step up voltage with the transformer. Idk I've heard this from several repair techs too. Ghost in the machine...
Might very well lay in the soft turn on circuit.
I play that chopped n screwed music on my 18s and need real amps for the low power toughness. 18hz slowed down purple music uses so much power lol
Still looks like a great amp dropped only 3 volts from 20hz to 65 but thats why you tune your box low
You won't hear the difference and a good system will have some mid bass to pick up where the subs left off anyway
I have Taramps for my Mids and highs and never got a problem
That's what hes saying. Most of the taramps are made for full range or mid/high, there are also the bass amps, but I think the take away is people are running full range amps as sub only and arent getting the best response or sound they COULD be getting. Or the most out of thier available power supplied.
Hey everyone! Don't buy that buy mine! Lol😂