I have wanted one of those amm-1's for sooo long. Im pretty sure my box rise is robbing me too. Thanks for doing this video a lot of people just dont understand this and they assume their stuff is always at 1ohm or 2ohm and have no clue that ohms are dynamic and it moves with the music which changes the wattage
i just wish i could do the same when explaining ignition timing to customers when i work at O'reilly's. We need to come up with something other than advanced or retarded ignition lol. @@joshhaimes
Yup. The issue is box not tuned to that spec. What ever the highest wattage you get at what tone is what your box is tuned to. Imagine some will do worse or better at 30hz. The normal decent tune is 40 to 50. That's why I go 10" to reach a lower box tune easier when I lack trunk space.
This is why amps with regulated power supplies (Power BDCP Fosgates, Taramp Smart 3s, etc... ) are generally louder on the street than unregulated Korean's twice the rating. On music, I'd rather have a 1-ohm amp that can push 2-4 ohms hard as well.
Really in my opinion I think higher sensitivity lower wattage subs will sound cleaner im thinking of just buying 2 super sized amps just so I can run a loud 4ohm system
nice video, thank you for helping explain impedance rise,.. I did a clamp test last week with a Toro R6, I started out at 0.5ohm and rise to about 2.5ohm ish ... I started out at 4000RMS but clamped at 2200RMS... impedance rise is KILLing ME lol.... awesome video BBH
Good shit bro! I love how you referred to the amps as "main" and "helper" rather than "master" and "Slave". The car audio industry needs to remove those terms from strapping amps.
Great content! I was playing with my new system yesterday with my SMD AMM-1 and was able to get 8702 watts at a rise of .9 ohms from one of my two Taramps MD8000.1 amps. I am running each amp at a static .7 ohms. I was surprised to get such a high number. Both are gain matched so I am thinking I am getting around 17k during burps.
@@BudgetBassHead Awesome! You will love it! It definitely fits in with the budget bass theme. Not sure there is another better bang for the buck. I got my last 2 (I have 4) off Amazon shipped for $456 each. The two I have have been taking a severe beating too. But I am feeding them very well... 270 AH of Yinlong at 15+ volts with a 370 amp alt.
@@BudgetBassHead I do have a bunch of videos... Some I started to upload on my TH-cam channel... I bought the Irish Hux Explorer (you can search him he has tons of vids) a few months ago and tore it apart and reworked the enclosure for 4- 18" PSI platform 5 subs. Sorry it's a little long of a story 🙂 The truck had so, so, many issues from the 160+ db system it had I have been spending months sorting them all out. I took out what seemed like miles of extra wires that I had no idea what they were for. Also fixed airbag issues and broken doors and other bass issues. But long story short after much much work I got the system running great. I have a SPL labs meter and as of 2 days ago hit 156.9 sealed on the windshield, 158.7 on the windshield with the door open, and 160+ (meter only goes to 160) in the foot well with the driver door open. It plays from 13 hz all the way up to 50 hz great. I do have a picture I took of the 8702 watts from the Taramps MD8000.1 I can upload if anyone knows of a place I can upload and link photos. Like I said I have a bunch of vids I have to upload to my site but with work and my daughter's graduation I haven't had any time to do the editing. I will try to get some up soon. Sorry so long 😁
Oh and the the MD8000 amps are just for breaking in the subs. I have a Taramps Bass 30k I plan on hooking up soon after I have fun testing with the 8ks. Then after that I have a few more surprises I haven't let anyone know about yet but they are big. 😉🔊
Steve is the real deal he made these tools for a real reason for us to not over do our setups on subs and amps and make them last longer and not over set to be clipping
Wow... How much don't you know? First of all, Steve didn't MAKE anything other than a partnership with the tool designers so he could be the marketing face of the product. That's the equivalent of being a pioneering version of Milli Vanilli. How you could call that "being real" is absurd. Secondly, charging $500-$800 for a device that can be outdone by a $120 o-scope or has the equivalence of a simple $40 multimeter from Lowes in a "more user-friendly interface" is robbery. And to do so all off of the assumption that the general public would either be too lazy or stupid to do what "his tool" can do is arrogance personified. It's a rather simple concept: buy equipment that's compatible with other equipment and don't treat the gain like it's a volume knob, put frequencies to speakers that are intended to produce those frequencies, and use basic logic and math to dial things in, and *poof*, no more "need" for this "tool". The product or him. Neither of which are as accurate as claimed, BTW. Don't think just because he runs a business and YT channel that it's not all been debunked before. And for the record, I'm not a "hater", I just know better than to smell the hot air he lets off.
as you already know BBH with more cone control you will have less impedance rise.. I bet if you do a test with a sealed box or better yet a little 4th order you will have more cone control and get more RMS out of that set of AP amps... if you still have that Force 12S try it or something of that level of sub and put it in a single 4th order.. I bet you will get 20 to 30% more RMS out of your setup... as always you are doing big great things in the car audio world.. great job
The AMM1 is a great tool. For the purposes of this video (impedance rise) you can also use the DATs from Parts Express. Totally different tool but less expensive and does a few of the things the AMM1 can. Thanks for the great content. I'm in the market for an Oscope I'll be checking that lumy one out fo sho
Nobody saying nothing about the Audiocontrol Line output converter. He probably doesn't have it set up correctly to his head unit since it being a stock head unit from GM. He should really think about what kind of voltage is coming out of that line output converter. This will affect a lot and I wonder if it's ever clipping out of the head unit. He has to start there first and then worry about the amps. It's the only way to be sure. Also what about his power? I haven't seen his installation videos or anything like that but he has to make sure that he's getting enough power to those amps. In this video I just don't see adequate power wires. I mean did he do the big three? Does he have a second battery? Does he have a good ground? It could be a lot of factors that can inhibit the power coming out of those amps. Last thing I'm worried about is ohms.
From what I’ve noticed, when you bridge channels on amplifiers the voltage from the two channels gets added together on the multimeter, which is what I’m guessing is exactly what’s going on here with these two amps strapped. so it’s actually 50 Vrms from each amp
@@magictoaster806 Yup exactly this. Strapped = Bridged and that's what's going on here. Each amp is handling half of the total voltage. And when Bridged you're wiring impedance should be 2x that of the minimum impedance each channel (or amp in this case) can do. These do 2k at 1 ohm so Strapped minimum impedance should be 2 ohm and you'll get 4k.
Yea I was going to say something to you a long time ago about wire down to.5 on the woofer but I didn't think you would listen sorry. Wired to .5 with two dual 2ohm woofers with rise you should clamp around 1.5 ohm on the low side depending on what Hz your testing and still be ok with the manufacture recommending of no lower then 2 ohm strapped. But now you have a AMM1 so you can test that! Love ya bro keep up the good fight, praying for you.
I had mine wired down to .5 on jl w7s and it pulled up to 1.5 using a Memphis 1000.1 completely unbelievable the power out of that system. This was such a great video I had actually forgotten about this issue until I was refreshed here and now I know what is going on with my current system.
Test your radio to see what volume gets you the highest signal without clipping. Then set your amp gains. Also you can wire your speakers to 1 ohm to help with box rise. Ive seen guys wire amps to .5 that are only rated for 2ohms and it works fine because your overall impedance is higher than .5 when impedance rise is figured in. Be aware if your amp setup is only good for 2k rms for example you dont want to be over about 2.5k on peaks if your concerned about pushing your amps too hard. 2.5k on peaks should be fine for a daily driver setup. Run your test again after wiring down and see what your results are.
Tony Dmore was a engineer at Rockford Fosgate Steve mead was a sponsored car audio guy back when big systems were only in cars sponsored by the big audio company's when Steve went on his own he got with Tony and they made quite a few different things besides Tony has his own line of Amos and other car audio stuff that came out last year . He is also behind the amps Fosgate made when they were making there mark in the car audio game
Increase your source output voltage using a line driver if your headunit is only pushing a 2v output signal your amp has to run alot harder and runs less efficient increasing your output voltage to 7 or 8v will allow your amp to run more efficient and will get you closer to your 2ohm load
I used to be a believer in matching rms of bothe the amp and speakers. I failed to understand impedance rise, and therefore couldn't account for daily listening. However I never blew a system this way. The flip side was I saw my amp's or system's full potential. But that's ok as long as you don't know lol. Now I know better! So I in order to compensate for impedance rise I go a lil bigger on the amp in attempt to match real world power to my sub's rms. Of course I had to go bigger on my electrical. Something that rarely comes to mind in regards to real world power. But as all you gotta pay to learn 💯. I hate to do so, but I'll have to bite the bullet and get that SMD tool. It definitely is a must have. Anyway great video brother
@@BudgetBassHead 10 4. I've on your TH-cam channel as a subscriber for years now. I can't stop now! As always like and comment. I'm already subscribed ☺. I really appreciate the content and the sense of wholesome car 🚗audio loving subscribers you bring together on a rare but definitely peaceful channel. Great job Budget Basshead 👏👍👌
Research and development for ultimate sq speakers has come to a halt around a decade ago. JL audio, Focal, and Polk audio are not to popular as they were before. They are making balanced loud speakers now. I have Rockford Power amp on a Polk Signature Reference sub 12 and to newer 12's, the newer subs are better to jam to. My sundown U 12 to be exact. Just my opinion.
Tools like this are a great investment, just wish I had the money. I'm sure my system has more it can give but I don't want to blow anything up. But right now it sounds good so I can't complain too much.
A quality amp and speakers with correct box specs will be better. I have an audio control LC 1.1500. Full power all the way through. Yea it’s about an $800 amp but you get what you pay for. Too many people try to ball on a budget. Save the money, be patient and purchase quality.
I'm not sure what to take away from this video. Impedance rise is typically a rise in efficiency. You're still limited by your minimum impedance your subs rest at (typically around tuning) But then again this video isn't geared towards me. Never the less it was still enjoyable to watch and never know when I'll learn something new.
Steve did not create these tools Tony D’Amore and Juan Rodriguez Designed and built them, they both have history in creating great electronics working as Electronic engineers for the likes of Rockford Fosgate, not taking anything away from Steve is the sales and public facing part of the team they had the idea to build the DD-1 and have gone from strength to strength since then.
Those amps might not hit rated power to begin with. Also, testing at 30 Hz might have been below the subsonic filter, which would increase resistance and cut output. Another thing is that this amplifier doesn’t go below 30 Hz. Since that’s the end of the response, it would have much less output at 30 Hz. Basically a lot of reasons that have nothing to do with resistance due to the cabin of the car.
The guy doing this video, has an audio control Lc2i that may have a pfm=programable freq. Module= subsonic filter factory set to cut power @ 33Hz! And you are correct his audiopipe apmn 2000s has a factory bass boost starting @ 30Hz. He should have tested @ 50Hz, where the power is not being restricted/cutoff. Also i cant believe that this guy does not have his full range speakers highpassed around 80hz and up?
On audiopipes website it says subsonic 5Hz, and responce down to 8Hz, for apmn/apmi-2000, its the bass boost that only goes down to 30Hz! I know Audio Control has a built in Pfm= subsonic filter in alot of there products, and the guy in this video is using an Audio Control product= thats the Bass knob he is using in this video= Audio Control, maybe the reason for the extreme power drop off, below 33Hz?
@@rmyrie5963 If you want lower freq. than 33Hz, i would double ✔️ with mfg. before purchasing, again im not 100% about this guys product having a subsonic/pfm @ 33hz, i just know Audio Control has alot of products with a pfm, that would explain why this guys power drops off so fast below 33Hz.
@@evilinside5984 I have the same audio control unit. I will have to do some research. But that doesn't sound right as the audio control is supposed to restore the bass from the factory signal
Mane these meters are super bad azz‼️Being a electrician and basshead i love multi meters especially ones that are for car audio. Was gonna definitely get a SMD DD1 + now i think ima have to get one of these AMM 1 as well💯
I would try to redo the test I think you're supposed to put just the positive wire through the hole not both. I have never seen box rise into the double figures before so it seems a bit odd.
It is only the positive bud pay attention to the amp he has both of those wires twisted together as one wire and then the same for the ground so the two that u see are infact just the positive lead not one positive and one negative
Haha! That's how I work on my whip, when I can. N I've owned an amm1 for 4 or 5 mo. It's pretty useful. don't remember what hz but I got 2600 @ 2.2 ohms on each of my vxf out my synergy 3k. Damn thing was $800 but dope amp. Good video bro
You can probably run your subs at a lower impedance and get away with it safely.... I had my subs wired to half an ohm but with box rise it was way higher and I ran one audiopipe 2k with cooling fans and it got down! Never had any issues with running the Amp at half an ohm after I put the cooling fans on it. I have a few friends running the same audiopipe 2ks that I installed with the cooling fans at half an ohm and they don't have any issues either. And they're banging surpsingly loud.... I love those audiopipe 2ks for the price and reliability and the power they're capable of
I agree with you. But with fluctuations in the variety of music genres i listen to, I didn't want to run the risk of impedance dropping and damaging something.
I guess it wouldn't be as much "budget", but what if you went with power, or punch amp? They say constant power technology? I was just considering doing this myself.
I noticed with the LC2i, the manufacturer says to have at half. Is your accubass up? Does adjusting the accubass and amp gain clip earlier on the oscilloscope
the the box were facing the back so the port could load off the trunk will help you gain more cone control and will likely sound better, also having an electrical that is fully able to power both those amps even after rise would help your clamp numbers of course. takes power to make power
I thought the same. Put a meter on my trunk with same box, tested with tones facing rear, facing forward, sideways, i never ever thought it would hit its peak with the box laying on its back, port firing up, but it did. Weird
I just started running an amp that’s 800 rms at 4 ohms on a 500 rms sub wired to 2 for this very reason. I haven’t really turned it up yet in this configuration but at moderate volumes it definitely seems like it’s more consistent at different frequencies.
I also got an amp that's 800rms at 4ohm and it's gonna power a 400rms sub at 2ohm, gotta build the the box though but thanks for the information on the constancy between frequencies
Good stuff. As long as the amp is stable @2ohms it should be okay. I've heard of people often times able to run amplifiers at lower impedances, unknowingly due to high impedance rises in their systems. Not every environment is subjected to these high impedances and probably should stick to manufacture's recommendations.
Brazilian amps are weird. I don’t know where they got the idea of of making the same amp with the same power at different impedances. Only thing I’m really concerned about is blowing the sub but it’s whatever I have another one that’s on the shelf cause I couldn’t give it enough power before
Just saying, these amps claim to have constant power irregardless of frequencies and ohms, music is dynamic with numerous different frequencies each at different ohms, how is that possible, would love to know. The amp I will be using is the RF punch 800a2, can wire the subwoofer at 8ohm or 2ohm, just want great sq and efficiency and of course don't wanna damage the subwoofer but in theory wired at 2ohm the amp is gonna require twice the amperage to produce the same amount of watts as 8ohm but will definitely decrease impedance rise and will also affect sq
If you were asking me I’m no expert but my thinking is that there is less noticeable spl increase per additional wattage at higher power. Like going from 100-200w is a big difference but you probably wouldn’t notice going from 800-900. Again, just guessing. That amp should provide a ton of power and sound good either way. I’ve run it’s smaller brother at a 1 ohm load with no problems
Impedence rise , impedence variations , it happens with ALL subwoofers , a fixed magnetic field with a moving energized coil changing position as the energized coil travels back and forth within the fixed magnetic field aka motor magnet ! No worries don't stress it ! If you can't knock the cone outta the frame just out more power to it !
You need to get a good constant power amplifier like kicker makes or the new sundown Sia series or taramps smart series where you get the same wattage between 1&2 ohms it really helps with impedance rise
Great video man! I wonder if you swept the frequency to find the lowest impedance of the box and rewire the subs to get more power out of the amp. Would be curious how that works out for you. Keep the good content coming!
This justifies brands like fosgate, which fight impedance rise. A single alpine, kicker etc would be louder. "Clean power" is only achievable w an amp that fights rise. Amp is the heart of any build and best to give the extra coin, in the end their will always be a desire 4 more performance once the flaw of why its so budget is discovered
It's audiopip....... Most name brands mtx,crossfire,Rockford fosgate,alpine does rated power and better sub control ( damping factor) plus voltage in makes a huge difference.
i seen ur getting 2 8k's anyways so i won't tell you to wire down ( my girl has 2 apmn 1500 strapped: final peak numbers @ 40 hz 66v 33a 2 ohms rise wired to 1 ohm but american bass xfl that's more like .7 so each amp sees .35 i assume and 2k output at around 12.6ish source voltage with car @ idle) but i will say that your box is the main culprit. which actually surprises me because of all the cool things you've built, you're still content with the skar box. would really love to see those subs in a 4th order or iso 6th in series or even a tapered horn iso ...
This is why playing at tuning and tuning to where you play is very important. This will minimize impedance rise. A well thought out system will take full advantage. The thing to note is playing a tone at half thr impedance will raise you final load to what your amp can handle, but this is hard on thr amp. Also, for any burst from a dead stop, the amp sees this nominal, lower load. .5 ohm for example. Also use the Liumy M2020. It has a much higher resolution.
I have two sundown x-15's v.3 wired to half Ohm on a crescendo 4K. And I'm rising to .67 or 1.34 ohms. I'm using a clamp meter and a regular meter. I'm clamping the two positive speaker wires. And I have the other meter hooked up to one positive and one negative speaker wire. The subs are wired to 1 ohm in the box and half ohm at the amp. I'm not sure if I'm supposed to multiply my number or not since I only have the regular meter going to one sub.
That's why I plan on not buying some of these new budget amps I been learning alot about damping factors and amplifiers that fight impedance rises I guess I'll try to invest in getting a Rockford fosgate 1500bdcp. I heard a guys system that was saying he had the taramps 3k on a sub and it was loud don't get me wrong but I was expecting some crazy stuff for 3k watts
That Rockford amp is like $1,000 For that type of money, you can buy a 3k, an extra AGM and a DSP and have a better sounding and more powerful system than the 1500bdcp.
@@BudgetBassHead so you're saying I can fight what efficiency a amp like the 15000bdcp has and combat that with a 3k that's actually getting the power it needs? Another question I have though is when is it necessary to enter the High Output Alternator range?
@@mallorycainjr.1921 Tbh stay away from these new Full bridge garbage amps. I have tried a Taramps HD 3000 for my subs and it sounded awful. There was very little sub bass and too much mid bass playing through the subs. I then sold it and got the Smart 3k. The Smart 3k sounded much much better. I had it pushing a B2 Rage 12 and it was pushing 1500W to the sub. It could've pushed more but the sub wouldn't take any more power. 3 or 4 months later the Smart 3k craps out. Everyrhing looks fine on the amp, it still looks brand new, it was only ever pushing half of its rated output but now from the last 2 weeks it clips 55-65Hz & 70Hz really bad. I only get 800W of clean power now before it starts to clip the sub hard at those frequencies. This isn't normal clipping either, it sounds like the sub is bottoming out even tho the sub has so much mechanical excursion left. It plays fine at every other frequency. I kept blaming the sub but I ordered a Toro R4 just to try out and make sure it wasn't the amp that was the fault but I find out that it was the Smart 3k that was the fault. I clamped the Toro R4, it's only pushing 700W to the sub because the lowest impedance I can get my sub to go to is 2 Ohms even tho it is a 1 Ohm sub. The Toro amp is doing rated power, only half the power the Smart 3k did, but sounds SOOO MUCH BETTER! There is actual sub bass in my system now! If I bring the Taramps to push 700W I ask myself wheres the bass? Do yourself a favor and please stay away from this new garbage. There's a reason these amps are so cheap. Buy the damn Fosgate, JL, etc you want. They are quality amps. They will sound much better than these full bridge amps and will outlast them by decades.
Another thing I wanted to mention. Don't go wasting your money on extra batteries, alternator etc. Efficiency is key. If you can get your system to sound the same or better than a 3000W system from only 1500W then you're the winner. Play around with the enclosure, number of subwoofers, subwoofer size before you even think about supplying more power to your amps.
You need to check the voltage at the rcas and see if the factory headunit and line Output converter you are using is providing the voltage you need. Somewhere in the 1.4 volt to 5v range. I bet you are at like .7 volts or somewhere in that range at the rca
Great vid. I no u said how your speakers were wired. Maybe u could show us how your speakers r wired with a diagram. The strapped amps should've done more than wat u were getting. Keep the vids coming, luv your work👍🏾😁
U should turn the bass all the way down on the head unit, there should be no bass coming from ur door speakers... try re-doing ur gains with the bass turned down on the head unit and see how it goes
I'm going to shed some light on this subject for you real quick so when you are playing frequencies that are close to the subwoofers natural frequency response the natural FS you're impedance will be through the roof that's why you see a lot of these competition vehicles burping frequency way higher like 50 hertz or 60 hertz it's because the impedance is lower so they'll turn their box to it with the correct volume correct Port area correct Port velocity they get a very high db of rise you can also play the other end of the spectrum and play lower like 20hz and get her wattage with less impedance check it out with your new instruments take it easy keep on keeping on!
It would be nice to see the DC voltage during those dyno tests. Lose a couple volts then you lose a few hundred watts potentially. Each amp is 2000 watts but at what Ohm load? Im assuming they are 1 Ohm Stable(4000 watts total)but strapped probably 2 Ohm minimum(2000 watts total). Getting 1400 watts makes sense. You dont probably have an upgraded alternator or extra deep cycle batteries. What size is your power wire? How good are your connections and did you upgrade your battery ground? I see where your 600 missing watts are going. Ohm load rises when you move the woofer. Each frequency will change the Ohm load. Plug your meter into the sub and move it with your hand. The ohm load changes. Ive never heard of ohm rise lol. I dont think thats a thing.
I lucked up and found a v3 liumy oscope for 40 bucks shipped off the interweb. They seem to go for about 90 bucks. Still worth it imo and ao much better than that v2 version.
Use a sealed box and a phoenix gold bass cube... 30hz is usually too low for ports and sound better sealed. Especially with and old school pg bass cube
Front speakers in the Impalas are dedicated woofers: 6x9s with dedicated amplifier. I keep the signal from head unit flat. Which is best for setting gains. But I understand why you suggest it.
you might get more power with 0 gauge power wire. And don't forget to test ur ground location for resistance to determine the best ground. Just need a long test wire.
The less cone control the more impedance rise. Try to only play music within your enclosures tuning frequency. Or really focus on your crossover points on the amplifier or DSP
It's most likely the factory radio/line level converter setup that's making your rca voltage too low which is causing your extremely high impedance load? Impedance rise is normal but 7+ isn't. You will have a dirty signal from low voltage rca's. I'm the guy that runs my aftermarket audio on a stock head unit first and change it up with an aftermarket head unit later. After taking the stock head unit and the rca converter out of the mix, the signal is cleaner, the bass is tighter, more defined and doesn't clip as easy. When it's clean and tight, I can increase the gain more.
I just started to learn about this the hard way, i purchased a sundown xv3 18 and saw a amp dyno recoil red 2500.1 its did 2300 at 1 ohm so i thought it would be perfect for the x since its rated at 2k rms well i was wrong lol so i ended up finding a crescendo 4k for a decent price and sound much better but its still seems like it wants more
I have the same set up man but my evl’s are 2 ohm same two amps this vid helped point me in the right direction for what I’m going to do with my box.. nothing is installed yet, but was stuck between strapping or not now I know which way I’m going with that... How are the amps on heat now, I remember in one of your vids you said they get really hot and hear the same in reviews. Thx for the content
I know this is an old video, but did anyone address the fact that he didn't reset the meter? After each dyno run you need to reset the meter that's why it didn't change. The other thing is he didn't even bring the amps up to clipping on the meter. You can hear it get louder when he ripened it up. I think you should try this again, with the same setup.
What voltage output do u have from you Lc2 set at? I’m using LC7 and I’m trying to figure out what output voltage I need to set mine to my sub amp,also do I set my gains on my LC7i first then my amp gain?thanks
Yes set the gain of the lc7i first, you can set the voltage to whatever you want on the outputs of the lc7i as long as it’s LOWER than the maximum input voltage your amplifier can handle. For example of your amp can only handle 5 vrms of input, don’t set it above 5 volts. Also keep in mind the higher you set the gain on the lc7i the lower you will set your gain on your amplifiers. Hope this helps
Great vid just found a dude on offer up who offers this service to tune and test ampage I’m currently doing 1277 on a taramps smart 3k on two ct sounds 12 ozone 800watt each
Great job well explain and great video 👍👍👍 keep up with a great job I wish I could afford SMD but I use the loony as well it works pretty well for me now I'm getting more knowledge of car audio I could turn cheap stuff too good quality sound no matter what it is I used to use a multimeter and the time you had to hear it by ear it has came a long ways
Oh my god the temp is rising on the west coast! Sunday supposed to be 110 in Portland. They're not ready for that, nobody has AC. Everyone gonna be in their cars driving around with the ac on bumpin'! I really enjoy your content, your voice and the way you speak is polite, calm and real at the same time. You know your stuff but you don't pretend to know everything because life is learning and you seem to get that. I feel like we are learning together instead of you teaching me. Good stuff! Keep em comin'!
Yep, we have to support each other. This hobby is fun but can also be dangerous is not done properly. I learn from you guys all the time. Thanks for watching.
Great video I watch alot of your content. Something seems off with the readings they just seem very low but I don't know much about strapping amps but I see other youtubers using the amm1 in their vehicles and they are spot on with the ratings when they do test tones. Idk man I still might invest in one for my setup
yo, can u ALSO set up the db meter to see what db's u get? like do a sweep from ur peak db frequency, down to that frequency where u get the highest impedance rise?
This is my first timing watching one of your videos not to mention my first time even coming across your channel. I have to say: Im impressed! Do you have any videos that are light weight made for newbies, beginners, and/or learners?
Ok I have a 2018 malibu & I purchased the lci2 pro now I ask cause I see you have one now I'm trying to find out howto video on howto go about hooking this thing up nicely do you have videos I can look up on doing this I'm a visual learner thanks & appreciated 👍
I have the 2018 LT model & I had this lci2 pro for a while now in the box still ,cause either I find a visual video on howto install this or I find someone to install it some how 🤔?
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Didnt know Steve Harvey would be teaching me about car audio 🤟🏿
😁
I didnt hear steve Harvey until u said it... now i cant unhear it. Lol
U nailed it, good one😂
Swear to god I started reading before commenting! You beat me to it. Killed me🤣🤣
🤣
This is why I size my Amps pretty much double the RMS rating of the sub, You did a good job explaining it here.
🤦🏼
I have wanted one of those amm-1's for sooo long. Im pretty sure my box rise is robbing me too. Thanks for doing this video a lot of people just dont understand this and they assume their stuff is always at 1ohm or 2ohm and have no clue that ohms are dynamic and it moves with the music which changes the wattage
Love how you referred to the amps as main and helper. Instantly subscribed.
I appreciated that too - we need to adopt this as a community!
Same
@@joshhaimes why?
@@matt6951 Because master/slave evokes slavery
i just wish i could do the same when explaining ignition timing to customers when i work at O'reilly's. We need to come up with something other than advanced or retarded ignition lol. @@joshhaimes
Build a custom enclosure with correct cf , tune and port area and watch the difference.
May be a difference, but there will always be impedance rise
Yup. The issue is box not tuned to that spec. What ever the highest wattage you get at what tone is what your box is tuned to. Imagine some will do worse or better at 30hz. The normal decent tune is 40 to 50. That's why I go 10" to reach a lower box tune easier when I lack trunk space.
DOPE. i own a AMM-1 it is super fun to use! i have no regrets on buying it.
This is why amps with regulated power supplies (Power BDCP Fosgates, Taramp Smart 3s, etc... ) are generally louder on the street than unregulated Korean's twice the rating. On music, I'd rather have a 1-ohm amp that can push 2-4 ohms hard as well.
Main amplifier and the helper...I see what you did there. Smart man.
Yep the algorithm doesn't like certain terminology👍.
It sucks that it requires more money to run more efficiently
I agree 100% Clipping is dangerous and clean signal just sounds better to me.
Really in my opinion I think higher sensitivity lower wattage subs will sound cleaner im thinking of just buying 2 super sized amps just so I can run a loud 4ohm system
Thank you for getting the SMD AMM-1 for your videos! Cant wait to see some more tests now
More to come! I promise
nice video, thank you for helping explain impedance rise,.. I did a clamp test last week with a Toro R6, I started out at 0.5ohm and rise to about 2.5ohm ish ... I started out at 4000RMS but clamped at 2200RMS... impedance rise is KILLing ME lol.... awesome video BBH
The Toro amp is a beast I love them and theyre rated for .5 check my vid out I had 1 on 2 bdc4 12s
Good shit bro! I love how you referred to the amps as "main" and "helper" rather than "master" and "Slave".
The car audio industry needs to remove those terms from strapping amps.
Great content! I was playing with my new system yesterday with my SMD AMM-1 and was able to get 8702 watts at a rise of .9 ohms from one of my two Taramps MD8000.1 amps. I am running each amp at a static .7 ohms. I was surprised to get such a high number. Both are gain matched so I am thinking I am getting around 17k during burps.
That is ironically amazing. I just purchased that amp. Video coming soon!
@@BudgetBassHead Awesome! You will love it! It definitely fits in with the budget bass theme. Not sure there is another better bang for the buck. I got my last 2 (I have 4) off Amazon shipped for $456 each. The two I have have been taking a severe beating too. But I am feeding them very well... 270 AH of Yinlong at 15+ volts with a 370 amp alt.
@@Widowmaker2828 Sounds like you really know your stuff👍 you posted any videos of it?
@@BudgetBassHead I do have a bunch of videos... Some I started to upload on my TH-cam channel... I bought the Irish Hux Explorer (you can search him he has tons of vids) a few months ago and tore it apart and reworked the enclosure for 4- 18" PSI platform 5 subs. Sorry it's a little long of a story 🙂 The truck had so, so, many issues from the 160+ db system it had I have been spending months sorting them all out. I took out what seemed like miles of extra wires that I had no idea what they were for. Also fixed airbag issues and broken doors and other bass issues. But long story short after much much work I got the system running great. I have a SPL labs meter and as of 2 days ago hit 156.9 sealed on the windshield, 158.7 on the windshield with the door open, and 160+ (meter only goes to 160) in the foot well with the driver door open. It plays from 13 hz all the way up to 50 hz great. I do have a picture I took of the 8702 watts from the Taramps MD8000.1 I can upload if anyone knows of a place I can upload and link photos. Like I said I have a bunch of vids I have to upload to my site but with work and my daughter's graduation I haven't had any time to do the editing. I will try to get some up soon. Sorry so long 😁
Oh and the the MD8000 amps are just for breaking in the subs. I have a Taramps Bass 30k I plan on hooking up soon after I have fun testing with the 8ks. Then after that I have a few more surprises I haven't let anyone know about yet but they are big. 😉🔊
Steve is the real deal he made these tools for a real reason for us to not over do our setups on subs and amps and make them last longer and not over set to be clipping
Wow... How much don't you know? First of all, Steve didn't MAKE anything other than a partnership with the tool designers so he could be the marketing face of the product. That's the equivalent of being a pioneering version of Milli Vanilli. How you could call that "being real" is absurd. Secondly, charging $500-$800 for a device that can be outdone by a $120 o-scope or has the equivalence of a simple $40 multimeter from Lowes in a "more user-friendly interface" is robbery. And to do so all off of the assumption that the general public would either be too lazy or stupid to do what "his tool" can do is arrogance personified. It's a rather simple concept: buy equipment that's compatible with other equipment and don't treat the gain like it's a volume knob, put frequencies to speakers that are intended to produce those frequencies, and use basic logic and math to dial things in, and *poof*, no more "need" for this "tool". The product or him. Neither of which are as accurate as claimed, BTW. Don't think just because he runs a business and YT channel that it's not all been debunked before. And for the record, I'm not a "hater", I just know better than to smell the hot air he lets off.
as you already know BBH with more cone control you will have less impedance rise.. I bet if you do a test with a sealed box or better yet a little 4th order you will have more cone control and get more RMS out of that set of AP amps... if you still have that Force 12S try it or something of that level of sub and put it in a single 4th order.. I bet you will get 20 to 30% more RMS out of your setup... as always you are doing big great things in the car audio world.. great job
That sounds like a formula for a great future video. Thanks for the tip!
4th orders are known for having lots of box rise because of the sealed section
The AMM1 is a great tool. For the purposes of this video (impedance rise) you can also use the DATs from Parts Express. Totally different tool but less expensive and does a few of the things the AMM1 can. Thanks for the great content. I'm in the market for an Oscope I'll be checking that lumy one out fo sho
Nobody saying nothing about the Audiocontrol Line output converter. He probably doesn't have it set up correctly to his head unit since it being a stock head unit from GM. He should really think about what kind of voltage is coming out of that line output converter. This will affect a lot and I wonder if it's ever clipping out of the head unit. He has to start there first and then worry about the amps. It's the only way to be sure.
Also what about his power? I haven't seen his installation videos or anything like that but he has to make sure that he's getting enough power to those amps. In this video I just don't see adequate power wires. I mean did he do the big three? Does he have a second battery? Does he have a good ground? It could be a lot of factors that can inhibit the power coming out of those amps. Last thing I'm worried about is ohms.
Agreed
100+ volts!? Holy sh*t that is more than 10k watts @ 1 Ohm amp power!
Those audio pipe amps do some business. For super budget amps they have impressed me and I always recommend them to people on a budget
From what I’ve noticed, when you bridge channels on amplifiers the voltage from the two channels gets added together on the multimeter, which is what I’m guessing is exactly what’s going on here with these two amps strapped. so it’s actually 50 Vrms from each amp
@@magictoaster806 Yup exactly this. Strapped = Bridged and that's what's going on here. Each amp is handling half of the total voltage.
And when Bridged you're wiring impedance should be 2x that of the minimum impedance each channel (or amp in this case) can do. These do 2k at 1 ohm so Strapped minimum impedance should be 2 ohm and you'll get 4k.
Yea I was going to say something to you a long time ago about wire down to.5 on the woofer but I didn't think you would listen sorry. Wired to .5 with two dual 2ohm woofers with rise you should clamp around 1.5 ohm on the low side depending on what Hz your testing and still be ok with the manufacture recommending of no lower then 2 ohm strapped. But now you have a AMM1 so you can test that! Love ya bro keep up the good fight, praying for you.
I had mine wired down to .5 on jl w7s and it pulled up to 1.5 using a Memphis 1000.1 completely unbelievable the power out of that system. This was such a great video I had actually forgotten about this issue until I was refreshed here and now I know what is going on with my current system.
So if I wire my speakers down to .5 ohm from 1 ohm that will make up for impedance rise?
@@Theyoufeelme Yes every time. Don't let people scare you away from wiring .5 the amp will never see 1ohm after rise more like 2ohm
Test your radio to see what volume gets you the highest signal without clipping. Then set your amp gains. Also you can wire your speakers to 1 ohm to help with box rise. Ive seen guys wire amps to .5 that are only rated for 2ohms and it works fine because your overall impedance is higher than .5 when impedance rise is figured in. Be aware if your amp setup is only good for 2k rms for example you dont want to be over about 2.5k on peaks if your concerned about pushing your amps too hard. 2.5k on peaks should be fine for a daily driver setup. Run your test again after wiring down and see what your results are.
Tony Dmore was a engineer at Rockford Fosgate Steve mead was a sponsored car audio guy back when big systems were only in cars sponsored by the big audio company's when Steve went on his own he got with Tony and they made quite a few different things besides Tony has his own line of Amos and other car audio stuff that came out last year . He is also behind the amps Fosgate made when they were making there mark in the car audio game
Wow. I knew none of that. Thanks for sharing.
Bro thats crazy.... Now i feel the need to check my setup!!
Yep. Most people don't realize how little they get in terms of a clean signal. It was definitely an eye-opener for me.
Always learning great stuff from this channel
Thanks for the support.
Increase your source output voltage using a line driver if your headunit is only pushing a 2v output signal your amp has to run alot harder and runs less efficient increasing your output voltage to 7 or 8v will allow your amp to run more efficient and will get you closer to your 2ohm load
1 of my favorite audio channels by far!
I used to be a believer in matching rms of bothe the amp and speakers. I failed to understand impedance rise, and therefore couldn't account for daily listening. However I never blew a system this way. The flip side was I saw my amp's or system's full potential. But that's ok as long as you don't know lol. Now I know better! So I in order to compensate for impedance rise I go a lil bigger on the amp in attempt to match real world power to my sub's rms. Of course I had to go bigger on my electrical. Something that rarely comes to mind in regards to real world power. But as all you gotta pay to learn 💯. I hate to do so, but I'll have to bite the bullet and get that SMD tool. It definitely is a must have. Anyway great video brother
I just got dual Taramps. featured in next video.
@@BudgetBassHead 10 4. I've on your TH-cam channel as a subscriber for years now. I can't stop now! As always like and comment. I'm already subscribed ☺. I really appreciate the content and the sense of wholesome car 🚗audio loving subscribers you bring together on a rare but definitely peaceful channel. Great job Budget Basshead 👏👍👌
@@BudgetBassHead One MD8k is all you need.
This is why new subwoofers are coming out dual 1 ohm and dual 2 ohm only. You will see less dual 4 ohm setups.
I tried explaining that to a audio shop in in Diana that sells only d4 ohm subwoofers
but 4ohms sounds so much better tho, you get better sound quality if thats what youre after
Research and development for ultimate sq speakers has come to a halt around a decade ago. JL audio, Focal, and Polk audio are not to popular as they were before. They are making balanced loud speakers now. I have Rockford Power amp on a Polk Signature Reference sub 12 and to newer 12's, the newer subs are better to jam to. My sundown U 12 to be exact. Just my opinion.
Yup I have soundstream sub that is dual 1 ohm coils sure loves more power right now she getting 1000rms by herself
@@juliobello4561 not with impedance rise that’s what the whole video is about! Trying to brag when it’s probably only getting 350-500 watts w rise
Tools like this are a great investment, just wish I had the money. I'm sure my system has more it can give but I don't want to blow anything up. But right now it sounds good so I can't complain too much.
A quality amp and speakers with correct box specs will be better. I have an audio control LC 1.1500. Full power all the way through. Yea it’s about an $800 amp but you get what you pay for. Too many people try to ball on a budget. Save the money, be patient and purchase quality.
efficiency is more important than watts.
I'm not sure what to take away from this video. Impedance rise is typically a rise in efficiency. You're still limited by your minimum impedance your subs rest at (typically around tuning) But then again this video isn't geared towards me. Never the less it was still enjoyable to watch and never know when I'll learn something new.
Moving the enclosure can affect the rise, anything to help control cone movement
I agree. Have the port load off of the trunk lid or side wall. Keep it like 4-6 inches away from the wall.
Steve did not create these tools Tony D’Amore and Juan Rodriguez Designed and built them, they both have history in creating great electronics working as Electronic engineers for the likes of Rockford Fosgate, not taking anything away from Steve is the sales and public facing part of the team they had the idea to build the DD-1 and have gone from strength to strength since then.
Very valuable information👌 Thanks for sharing that history😃
Good video. Me and my Sons were also shocked after we got our AMM-1.
Your numbers are on par too. We get about 35% of what the amps would do on a test bench.
Those amps might not hit rated power to begin with. Also, testing at 30 Hz might have been below the subsonic filter, which would increase resistance and cut output. Another thing is that this amplifier doesn’t go below 30 Hz. Since that’s the end of the response, it would have much less output at 30 Hz. Basically a lot of reasons that have nothing to do with resistance due to the cabin of the car.
The guy doing this video, has an audio control Lc2i that may have a pfm=programable freq. Module= subsonic filter factory set to cut power @ 33Hz! And you are correct his audiopipe apmn 2000s has a factory bass boost starting @ 30Hz. He should have tested @ 50Hz, where the power is not being restricted/cutoff. Also i cant believe that this guy does not have his full range speakers highpassed around 80hz and up?
@@evilinside5984 so if the audio control cuts at 33hz, what do you think is a best option for line out converter or running signal to the amps
On audiopipes website it says subsonic 5Hz, and responce down to 8Hz, for apmn/apmi-2000, its the bass boost that only goes down to 30Hz! I know Audio Control has a built in Pfm= subsonic filter in alot of there products, and the guy in this video is using an Audio Control product= thats the Bass knob he is using in this video= Audio Control, maybe the reason for the extreme power drop off, below 33Hz?
@@rmyrie5963 If you want lower freq. than 33Hz, i would double ✔️ with mfg. before purchasing, again im not 100% about this guys product having a subsonic/pfm @ 33hz, i just know Audio Control has alot of products with a pfm, that would explain why this guys power drops off so fast below 33Hz.
@@evilinside5984 I have the same audio control unit. I will have to do some research. But that doesn't sound right as the audio control is supposed to restore the bass from the factory signal
Mane these meters are super bad azz‼️Being a electrician and basshead i love multi meters especially ones that are for car audio. Was gonna definitely get a SMD DD1 + now i think ima have to get one of these AMM 1 as well💯
I would try to redo the test I think you're supposed to put just the positive wire through the hole not both. I have never seen box rise into the double figures before so it seems a bit odd.
It is only the positive bud pay attention to the amp he has both of those wires twisted together as one wire and then the same for the ground so the two that u see are infact just the positive lead not one positive and one negative
Haha! That's how I work on my whip, when I can. N I've owned an amm1 for 4 or 5 mo. It's pretty useful. don't remember what hz but I got 2600 @ 2.2 ohms on each of my vxf out my synergy 3k. Damn thing was $800 but dope amp. Good video bro
Great amp. Cost more than most but we'll worth the dollar 💵. Especially when it comes to compensating for impedance rise
You can probably run your subs at a lower impedance and get away with it safely.... I had my subs wired to half an ohm but with box rise it was way higher and I ran one audiopipe 2k with cooling fans and it got down! Never had any issues with running the Amp at half an ohm after I put the cooling fans on it. I have a few friends running the same audiopipe 2ks that I installed with the cooling fans at half an ohm and they don't have any issues either. And they're banging surpsingly loud.... I love those audiopipe 2ks for the price and reliability and the power they're capable of
I agree with you. But with fluctuations in the variety of music genres i listen to, I didn't want to run the risk of impedance dropping and damaging something.
I believe you got more in it. That O scope is fishy to me.
I guess it wouldn't be as much "budget", but what if you went with power, or punch amp? They say constant power technology? I was just considering doing this myself.
I noticed with the LC2i, the manufacturer says to have at half. Is your accubass up? Does adjusting the accubass and amp gain clip earlier on the oscilloscope
I really appreciate the information you lace us up with. Learn something new every video. Thank you brother.
I appreciate that👍
the the box were facing the back so the port could load off the trunk will help you gain more cone control and will likely sound better, also having an electrical that is fully able to power both those amps even after rise would help your clamp numbers of course. takes power to make power
I thought the same. Put a meter on my trunk with same box, tested with tones facing rear, facing forward, sideways, i never ever thought it would hit its peak with the box laying on its back, port firing up, but it did. Weird
I just started running an amp that’s 800 rms at 4 ohms on a 500 rms sub wired to 2 for this very reason. I haven’t really turned it up yet in this configuration but at moderate volumes it definitely seems like it’s more consistent at different frequencies.
I also got an amp that's 800rms at 4ohm and it's gonna power a 400rms sub at 2ohm, gotta build the the box though but thanks for the information on the constancy between frequencies
Good stuff. As long as the amp is stable @2ohms it should be okay. I've heard of people often times able to run amplifiers at lower impedances, unknowingly due to high impedance rises in their systems. Not every environment is subjected to these high impedances and probably should stick to manufacture's recommendations.
Brazilian amps are weird. I don’t know where they got the idea of of making the same amp with the same power at different impedances. Only thing I’m really concerned about is blowing the sub but it’s whatever I have another one that’s on the shelf cause I couldn’t give it enough power before
Just saying, these amps claim to have constant power irregardless of frequencies and ohms, music is dynamic with numerous different frequencies each at different ohms, how is that possible, would love to know. The amp I will be using is the RF punch 800a2, can wire the subwoofer at 8ohm or 2ohm, just want great sq and efficiency and of course don't wanna damage the subwoofer but in theory wired at 2ohm the amp is gonna require twice the amperage to produce the same amount of watts as 8ohm but will definitely decrease impedance rise and will also affect sq
If you were asking me I’m no expert but my thinking is that there is less noticeable spl increase per additional wattage at higher power. Like going from 100-200w is a big difference but you probably wouldn’t notice going from 800-900. Again, just guessing.
That amp should provide a ton of power and sound good either way. I’ve run it’s smaller brother at a 1 ohm load with no problems
Impedence rise , impedence variations , it happens with ALL subwoofers , a fixed magnetic field with a moving energized coil changing position as the energized coil travels back and forth within the fixed magnetic field aka motor magnet ! No worries don't stress it ! If you can't knock the cone outta the frame just out more power to it !
You need to get a good constant power amplifier like kicker makes or the new sundown Sia series or taramps smart series where you get the same wattage between 1&2 ohms it really helps with impedance rise
Great video man! I wonder if you swept the frequency to find the lowest impedance of the box and rewire the subs to get more power out of the amp. Would be curious how that works out for you. Keep the good content coming!
That's the plan! Thanks for the support!
Yup, this is why I ended up buying the Orion HCCA 3000.1
Same
This justifies brands like fosgate, which fight impedance rise. A single alpine, kicker etc would be louder. "Clean power" is only achievable w an amp that fights rise. Amp is the heart of any build and best to give the extra coin, in the end their will always be a desire 4 more performance once the flaw of why its so budget is discovered
It's audiopip....... Most name brands mtx,crossfire,Rockford fosgate,alpine does rated power and better sub control ( damping factor) plus voltage in makes a huge difference.
i seen ur getting 2 8k's anyways so i won't tell you to wire down ( my girl has 2 apmn 1500 strapped: final peak numbers @ 40 hz 66v 33a 2 ohms rise wired to 1 ohm but american bass xfl that's more like .7 so each amp sees .35 i assume and 2k output at around 12.6ish source voltage with car @ idle) but i will say that your box is the main culprit. which actually surprises me because of all the cool things you've built, you're still content with the skar box. would really love to see those subs in a 4th order or iso 6th in series or even a tapered horn iso ...
That is dope. I love the fact that the equipment has my initials already on it. 🤣
This is why playing at tuning and tuning to where you play is very important. This will minimize impedance rise. A well thought out system will take full advantage.
The thing to note is playing a tone at half thr impedance will raise you final load to what your amp can handle, but this is hard on thr amp. Also, for any burst from a dead stop, the amp sees this nominal, lower load. .5 ohm for example.
Also use the Liumy M2020. It has a much higher resolution.
I have two sundown x-15's v.3 wired to half Ohm on a crescendo 4K. And I'm rising to .67 or 1.34 ohms. I'm using a clamp meter and a regular meter. I'm clamping the two positive speaker wires. And I have the other meter hooked up to one positive and one negative speaker wire.
The subs are wired to 1 ohm in the box and half ohm at the amp. I'm not sure if I'm supposed to multiply my number or not since I only have the regular meter going to one sub.
That's why I plan on not buying some of these new budget amps I been learning alot about damping factors and amplifiers that fight impedance rises I guess I'll try to invest in getting a Rockford fosgate 1500bdcp. I heard a guys system that was saying he had the taramps 3k on a sub and it was loud don't get me wrong but I was expecting some crazy stuff for 3k watts
That Rockford amp is like $1,000 For that type of money, you can buy a 3k, an extra AGM and a DSP and have a better sounding and more powerful system than the 1500bdcp.
@@BudgetBassHead thanks for mentioning it like that I never thought of it that way
@@BudgetBassHead so you're saying I can fight what efficiency a amp like the 15000bdcp has and combat that with a 3k that's actually getting the power it needs? Another question I have though is when is it necessary to enter the High Output Alternator range?
@@mallorycainjr.1921 Tbh stay away from these new Full bridge garbage amps. I have tried a Taramps HD 3000 for my subs and it sounded awful. There was very little sub bass and too much mid bass playing through the subs. I then sold it and got the Smart 3k. The Smart 3k sounded much much better. I had it pushing a B2 Rage 12 and it was pushing 1500W to the sub. It could've pushed more but the sub wouldn't take any more power. 3 or 4 months later the Smart 3k craps out. Everyrhing looks fine on the amp, it still looks brand new, it was only ever pushing half of its rated output but now from the last 2 weeks it clips 55-65Hz & 70Hz really bad. I only get 800W of clean power now before it starts to clip the sub hard at those frequencies. This isn't normal clipping either, it sounds like the sub is bottoming out even tho the sub has so much mechanical excursion left. It plays fine at every other frequency. I kept blaming the sub but I ordered a Toro R4 just to try out and make sure it wasn't the amp that was the fault but I find out that it was the Smart 3k that was the fault. I clamped the Toro R4, it's only pushing 700W to the sub because the lowest impedance I can get my sub to go to is 2 Ohms even tho it is a 1 Ohm sub. The Toro amp is doing rated power, only half the power the Smart 3k did, but sounds SOOO MUCH BETTER! There is actual sub bass in my system now! If I bring the Taramps to push 700W I ask myself wheres the bass? Do yourself a favor and please stay away from this new garbage. There's a reason these amps are so cheap. Buy the damn Fosgate, JL, etc you want. They are quality amps. They will sound much better than these full bridge amps and will outlast them by decades.
Another thing I wanted to mention. Don't go wasting your money on extra batteries, alternator etc. Efficiency is key. If you can get your system to sound the same or better than a 3000W system from only 1500W then you're the winner. Play around with the enclosure, number of subwoofers, subwoofer size before you even think about supplying more power to your amps.
You need to check the voltage at the rcas and see if the factory headunit and line Output converter you are using is providing the voltage you need. Somewhere in the 1.4 volt to 5v range. I bet you are at like .7 volts or somewhere in that range at the rca
Dang, at 2 ohms, you should be getting that 1300 out of just 1 of them amps. Thats crazy! Do you think it's the box?
Its definitely the box. Too small
Yep definitely the box.
@@BudgetBassHead Dude its not the box! this is not a opinion this if facts. Stop drinking the kool-Aid
@@TylerTheBassCreator No its not!
box has nothing to do with amp out put amp not true to watt rating.
Great vid. I no u said how your speakers were wired. Maybe u could show us how your speakers r wired with a diagram. The strapped amps should've done more than wat u were getting. Keep the vids coming, luv your work👍🏾😁
Great! Now gotta start looking for bigger amp then
U should turn the bass all the way down on the head unit, there should be no bass coming from ur door speakers... try re-doing ur gains with the bass turned down on the head unit and see how it goes
I'm going to shed some light on this subject for you real quick so when you are playing frequencies that are close to the subwoofers natural frequency response the natural FS you're impedance will be through the roof that's why you see a lot of these competition vehicles burping frequency way higher like 50 hertz or 60 hertz it's because the impedance is lower so they'll turn their box to it with the correct volume correct Port area correct Port velocity they get a very high db of rise you can also play the other end of the spectrum and play lower like 20hz and get her wattage with less impedance check it out with your new instruments take it easy keep on keeping on!
Exellent tip. Thanks.
It would be nice to see the DC voltage during those dyno tests. Lose a couple volts then you lose a few hundred watts potentially. Each amp is 2000 watts but at what Ohm load? Im assuming they are 1 Ohm Stable(4000 watts total)but strapped probably 2 Ohm minimum(2000 watts total).
Getting 1400 watts makes sense. You dont probably have an upgraded alternator or extra deep cycle batteries. What size is your power wire? How good are your connections and did you upgrade your battery ground? I see where your 600 missing watts are going.
Ohm load rises when you move the woofer. Each frequency will change the Ohm load. Plug your meter into the sub and move it with your hand. The ohm load changes. Ive never heard of ohm rise lol. I dont think thats a thing.
Like your videos, have you tried a DD or a Dc audio amp?
Are you using the factory head unit??? If so that’s the first major problem
The lc2i puts out almost twice the required voltage for this amplifier.
I lucked up and found a v3 liumy oscope for 40 bucks shipped off the interweb. They seem to go for about 90 bucks. Still worth it imo and ao much better than that v2 version.
Graph has been improved dramatically
Use a sealed box and a phoenix gold bass cube... 30hz is usually too low for ports and sound better sealed. Especially with and old school pg bass cube
This might be a stupid suggestion but you want to lower the bass on your head unit so your door speakers can sound normal at max volume.
Front speakers in the Impalas are dedicated woofers: 6x9s with dedicated amplifier. I keep the signal from head unit flat. Which is best for setting gains. But I understand why you suggest it.
@@BudgetBassHead Oh I see you fancy
you might get more power with 0 gauge power wire. And don't forget to test ur ground location for resistance to determine the best ground. Just need a long test wire.
That's a good suggestion! Which I now have . thanks
Bro where are you located? I got that same impala I want put some music in but don't know how. I can wire up an old school but not this new school yet
I'll be giving a tutorial in an upcoming video.
Great video. But why does the impedance rise and how does one compensate??
The less cone control the more impedance rise. Try to only play music within your enclosures tuning frequency. Or really focus on your crossover points on the amplifier or DSP
It's most likely the factory radio/line level converter setup that's making your rca voltage too low which is causing your extremely high impedance load? Impedance rise is normal but 7+ isn't. You will have a dirty signal from low voltage rca's. I'm the guy that runs my aftermarket audio on a stock head unit first and change it up with an aftermarket head unit later. After taking the stock head unit and the rca converter out of the mix, the signal is cleaner, the bass is tighter, more defined and doesn't clip as easy. When it's clean and tight, I can increase the gain more.
Sick set up dude
I just started to learn about this the hard way, i purchased a sundown xv3 18 and saw a amp dyno recoil red 2500.1 its did 2300 at 1 ohm so i thought it would be perfect for the x since its rated at 2k rms well i was wrong lol so i ended up finding a crescendo 4k for a decent price and sound much better but its still seems like it wants more
Very, very good video. Great editing and information thank you!
Great video. Looks like I'm buying one.
*SMD kicks Ass !!!
Links are in the description.😉🤘
I have the same set up man but my evl’s are 2 ohm same two amps this vid helped point me in the right direction for what I’m going to do with my box.. nothing is installed yet, but was stuck between strapping or not now I know which way I’m going with that...
How are the amps on heat now, I remember in one of your vids you said they get really hot and hear the same in reviews. Thx for the content
I know this is an old video, but did anyone address the fact that he didn't reset the meter? After each dyno run you need to reset the meter that's why it didn't change. The other thing is he didn't even bring the amps up to clipping on the meter. You can hear it get louder when he ripened it up. I think you should try this again, with the same setup.
I have the same dual subs with a skar 1200 watt amp, would u suggest getting a better amp ? Possible 2000 watt, would the dual 12’s handle that power?
You would certainly benefit from it 😃
I absolutely loved your video, as a fellow car audio enthusiast…. Subbed 👍
Welcome to the channel 🥳
12:40 If I'm not mistaken, I thought you had to put one wire (or 1 polarity) through the SMD AMM-1 hole?
My speaker cable are each, dual 10Gauge wires.
Did u change all the interior speakers? If so what speakers did u use and the ohms for the new speakers.
Also what kind of signal conversion are you using with your factory radio
AudioControl LC2i
What voltage output do u have from you Lc2 set at?
I’m using LC7 and I’m trying to figure out what output voltage I need to set mine to my sub amp,also do I set my gains on my LC7i first then my amp gain?thanks
Yes set the gain of the lc7i first, you can set the voltage to whatever you want on the outputs of the lc7i as long as it’s LOWER than the maximum input voltage your amplifier can handle. For example of your amp can only handle 5 vrms of input, don’t set it above 5 volts. Also keep in mind the higher you set the gain on the lc7i the lower you will set your gain on your amplifiers. Hope this helps
Man I want that DD1
Great vid just found a dude on offer up who offers this service to tune and test ampage I’m currently doing 1277 on a taramps smart 3k on two ct sounds 12 ozone 800watt each
What’s good, hey I’ve just started watching some of your vids and I enjoy listening to the bass in your demos. What are the songs called?
I pull most of them from the TH-cam Library. Its hard to find really good ones, but I guess I should start putting the names up for you guys.
Great job well explain and great video 👍👍👍 keep up with a great job I wish I could afford SMD but I use the loony as well it works pretty well for me now I'm getting more knowledge of car audio I could turn cheap stuff too good quality sound no matter what it is I used to use a multimeter and the time you had to hear it by ear it has came a long ways
@0:21 why do you have them facing sideways? anytime I’ve tried facing them backwards is always the loudest
Steve Mead will challenge you to get louder than him with 412s while he uses a single eight if you talk s*** to him lol
😄
Oh my god the temp is rising on the west coast! Sunday supposed to be 110 in Portland. They're not ready for that, nobody has AC. Everyone gonna be in their cars driving around with the ac on bumpin'!
I really enjoy your content, your voice and the way you speak is polite, calm and real at the same time. You know your stuff but you don't pretend to know everything because life is learning and you seem to get that. I feel like we are learning together instead of you teaching me. Good stuff!
Keep em comin'!
Yep, we have to support each other. This hobby is fun but can also be dangerous is not done properly. I learn from you guys all the time. Thanks for watching.
U need to run this test on the hertz that ur subs peak at then run this test
My subs peak, in this environment, around 46Hz. The impedance measurement is about the same as it is at 32Hz. Peaking to about 14 ohms @40Hz
Box is factory tuned from skar so thats ok position and amp is the issue but good quality is at budget prices these days so bass on fellow heads
Yep. I love this box. But its too small for the VXFs
Great video I watch alot of your content. Something seems off with the readings they just seem very low but I don't know much about strapping amps but I see other youtubers using the amm1 in their vehicles and they are spot on with the ratings when they do test tones. Idk man I still might invest in one for my setup
Go smart 3k small foot print plenty of power 💪🏾 and at least 3k for 1 2 and 4 ohms automatically check big d wiz dyno
Thank for the video. Good stuff !!!
yo, can u ALSO set up the db meter to see what db's u get? like do a sweep from ur peak db frequency, down to that frequency where u get the highest impedance rise?
Good info! How do you set the LC2i?
This is my first timing watching one of your videos not to mention my first time even coming across your channel. I have to say: Im impressed!
Do you have any videos that are light weight made for newbies, beginners, and/or learners?
Ok I have a 2018 malibu & I purchased the lci2 pro now I ask cause I see you have one now I'm trying to find out howto video on howto go about hooking this thing up nicely do you have videos I can look up on doing this I'm a visual learner thanks & appreciated 👍
I have the 2016 Malibu Limited, don't know which model you have, but I do have an upcoming video on the PAC LC2i. Should be out in a week or 2.
I have the 2018 LT model & I had this lci2 pro for a while now in the box still ,cause either I find a visual video on howto install this or I find someone to install it some how 🤔?