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Honda/Acura B series 5speed IN DEPTH REBUILD PART 2
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2020
- Disassemble countershaft, finish main shaft assembly and complete rebuilt procedures. Added synchro specs at the end.
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I bought every single bearing and seal oem honda new and installed a Quiffe LSD. My S4C has to sopport 600+. Unfortunately i couldn't get thrvppg straight cut gears this time around. I had already spent $2800 on the rebuild. Absolutely fantastic video. Couldn't have done the job woithout your posting.
Thanks Jim…I figured a few guys would appreciate some of the tips and tricks I learned doing these… the D series trans are very similar , if I had a K series Id do a video on those too. Thanks for the comment! BTW… the trans in the video is still going strong and the owner loves the b16 1-4 close ratios paired with the LS 5th freeway gear
Certainly learned something! Thanks for the video!!
Fantastic 👍
Thanks for putting this up
Figured it might help someone feel confident or at least know what they are getting themselves into on pulling one of these down and diag and rebuild it
Thanks alot for putting this up! What kind of oil do you run in the rebuilt gearboxes? Do the carbon lined synchros require a different oil other than Honda MTF3?
Way back before MTF honda manual gear boxes specified 5w-30 engine oil and it worked without issue. But even in the old stuff there is a noticeable difference in how they shift when MTF is put in them, especially when they are cold.
I only use MTF no other additives.
I change the fluid every 15k in my honda (manual or auto) because it extends the trans life.
I haven’t ever seen a different fluid spec for carbon synchro’s and have put a ton in peoples daily/weekend hondas with over 100k still shifting clean with no complaints.
Rebuilds arent indescribable though… because owner induced bent shift forks are the number 1 cause of failure
@@MRROCKAPE Alright thanks alot for your quick answer 👍 I'm currently in the process of rebuilding my S80 transmission and saw alot of conflicting opinions about what kind of oil to use afterwards. So its nice to get a clearcut answer from someone who actually has some experience 😅 Thank you so much!
I have a ls transmission that was stuck in a high gear even if I put it into first gear. I had to rev it high just to get it moving and changing gears does nothing. Even neutral will not work so if I released the clutch the car would die. Thought it was something wrong with my pressure plate so pulled off tranny and tried to rotate the main shaft through the gears but the shaft will not rotate while engaged in any of the gears. In neutral, the shaft rotates freely. Do you have an idea of what’s wrong with it?
showed everything but the closing of the case-technique and lil clip in that 32mm plug hole... the same crucial part missing from most other videos i've found.
I cant figure out how to put it buck i tried to open the c clip as much as i can with a plier and prey the shaft with a screw driver from the nut it wont go in place do you know why?
Thanks for the videos, quick question, do you need to check the tolerances between each of the hubs and the synchro/gear assembly - I know you mentioned there shouldn't be any up and down play but I think my current assembly has some - should I tap the hub in a little more?
Is adjusting the thrust absolutely required afterwards? I saw someone else do it on a video but was about to skip that entirely.
The only time you should have to adjust the thrust is if you’re replacing a main or counter shaft.
The slider hubs only take light taps to seat where they should be, the clearance I probably was talking about was likely the synchro ring to gear, since I always do new synchro’s I dont re-check it.
If you have up and down movement in a gear that is next to the synchro hub something is probably assembled wrong especially if that play isnt the same as all the other gears when comparing.
@@MRROCKAPE great thank you for clarifying!
If you were near Evansville Indiana I would have you rebuild mine for my b18c1
Back when B series swaps were the only good ones I did a ton and everyone seems to love the b16/LS 5th gear hybrid (like this one) in their street cars.
Louisville KY
Do you have to have the detenballs or whatever they are called and the bolt with the spring in, and reverse bolt in to have the shaft spin easy? Our shaft is hard to spin but does spin
I dont have any spares, all that stuff is available at the dealer
i’ve redone it about 4 times, any thoughts?
Hey man this was a very good video! I have a bit of a weird question however and I was really hoping you can help. I've been having a strange transmission issue in my EK project over on my channel. Basically what's going on is, and I know it sounds weird, but reverse is where 4th should be. So the 3-4 shift is actually 3-reverse. I cant find 4th gear anywhere. I did take the transmission out and did a whole build (on my channel named Gripworkz if you want to reference those videos) and I didn't notice anything wrong/damaged/missing when it came to the gear set. Also, the shifter seems to go into 5th but there's no engagement, it's like another neutral, I am so frustrated and confused, I've been at t his for months now. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
So likely something isnt right in the shift mechanism you saw me install right at the 25minute mark in this video , there is a pivot pin that can pop out of its lower hole, when that happens it tries to shift two forks at once or doesn’t correspond with the correct gear…. Thats my best guess on what is going on with yours.
@@MRROCKAPE I think you're right. I know for a fact I was able to engage every gear by hand on the bench, and I know I eliminated the shifter and linkage from the equation. That shift change holder mechanism is the only thing left that I can think of. I'll try to look for that pivot pin you're talking about. Time to pull the transmission again *sigh* thank you for your help!
@@Gripworkz dont worry lots of people end up doing these more than once… its part of the reason I tried to stress being really careful with the gear stacks as its a common mistake and a really hard one to figure out if you mess it up. I should have been more in-depth on that little shift mechanism because there is some lining up of the pins of the shift forks to it that’s critical. Maybe Ill do an update video when I do another one. Im looking for a k series 6 speed to do a video on currently.
@@MRROCKAPE Well you did really well with these videos, it’s hard enough to cover every single detail as it is. I tried to be as careful as possible when it came to the gear stack order and orientation but I know someone has messed with it in the past. If they made a mistake I pretty much put it together the way they did. I’ll double check everything when I get back in there. What do you think the odds are that the shift mechanism could be damaged?
Is there a specific orientation for the two washers under the main shaft? If I remember correctly one of the washers is concave
The concave/convex washer is against the bearing.
Hey I’m rebuilding one of these transmissions, I got it together right just like this, and now the input shaft is locked up
Did you line up the tab before installing the case?
Just had the same issue, it ended up being the shifter assembly didnt line up with the other case half causing everything to bind up
I completed the rebuild up to the point right before I put the other half of the case on.
I wanted to make sure I hadn't messed up anywhere so i put a screw driver in the hole of the gear changer and started pushing and pulling on it to make sure it went into all the gears without an issue.
After a couple of gear changes the gear changer assembly pops out from the shifter selector forks. I had another gear selector assembly so i tested it with that one although same result. This cant be normal right? I made sure the forks and gear selector assembly were on correctly.
I kept feeling on everything and noticed the 1-2 gear slider has a good amount of play which causes the small shifter fork to shake a good amount when changing gears. I think this is whats causing the whole gear changer assembly to pop out. Do i need to change 1-2 gear slider? Is this my issue?
I believe your detent spring is goin bad, which is why it is popping out of gear.
Did you use just the one small 5th gear from main and input shaft? Or just the one
No, you have to use both gears since they are different diameters to get the much more freeway friendly lower rpm the LS 5th gets you
Do you have a write up of how to row through the gears to test out the transmission?
So if you put a round punch in the shift shaft , twist it to your left and pull on it, thats first gear, push it forward thats second, let it self center, pull back and thats 3rd, forward is 4th,back to center and twist it to your right pull back is 5th, push forward and thats reverse. You will need to turn the input shaft while simultaneously shifting it to get it to go in each gear position.
@@MRROCKAPE thank you! And thank you for the awesome step by step tutorial. Just sealed my first b series transmission build using this tutorial.
Thanks for this question and thanks OP for the detailed answer!
just asking about the s80 transmission can trasfer all internal crv transmisdion 4×4
I assume you can but I havent ever actually mix and matched parts with a crv to a b16-LS-gsr-itr you may be able to cross reference factory part numbers from the crv to b series stuff on any of the oem parts catalogs available online…. If the main and countershaft are the same part number it’s likely the gears will swap too.
what if the main shaft won’t spin when you run it through the gears after you put it back together ? everything spun fine before i put the case back one but once i sealed the case and torqued everything i can shift it in all the gears except 5th and i can’t spin the shaft. it’s a gsr transmission
Does the shift shaft move through the gears like it should? Or did you pull the cases together with the bolts?
@@MRROCKAPE when i put the case on i had to shift it through the gears for it to pop down and there was literally only a 1/16th of space between the case so i used 4 of the bolts and spread the lock ring while slowly tightening each one until it closed completely and the ring popped into the groove. i can shift into all gears except 5th feels like i can’t and if i tried it feels like of damage something. i had the main shaft tab pointed in the twelve o’clock position so i don’t think it was that. i’m gonna pull the case off. i took all the 12 mm bolts off and i can now move the main shaft fine
Something is bound up, if the case didnt lay flat before you put the case bolts in there is an issue… 1st make sure before you take it back apart the counter shaft bearing is seated in the circlip. (Behind the end plug) I cut the video of putting the outer case on because they can take time getting them to line up, spinning the main shaft and jiggling the shift shaft helps everything find its spot and the case slips right together… eventually.
@@MRROCKAPE i feel like it’s coming together right i just need to find a way to get the clip on the bearing and try to spin the shaft after that. the case slips right on and for the most part is laying flat. the front side of the transmission has a tiny gap that goes away when i press on it but the other side lays completely flat
Anyone advice my s4c trsnny none lsd which lsd i can put
What was the torque spec on the counter shaft nut?
80ft-lbs, though I have always just tightened the nut back to the spot that the previously staked spot on it was.
Before I pull my trans shifting is very hard and cant always find the gear and 5 there's a wine but I can feel like it's not all the way in any help will be appreciated
The whine is probably bearings from being worn or run with the wrong fluid. The shifting issue is probably bent shift forks and likely worn slider rigs. Id expect you’ll be replacing more than just the synchros and input bearing/seal.
@@MRROCKAPE is there a way I can send you a video to show you I don't want to pull it and inspect with out having some knowledge of what's going. On
A video of it having an issue isn’t really going to tell me whats wrong… it sounds like a major failure or multiple failures internally. Id recommend you take it to someone with experience as rebuilding, these can turn into a nightmare when one gear or hub gets flipped over and installed or if one failed part gets overlooked. There have been times when I worked at the dealer that it became cheaper to buy a new trans than fix failed ones because of multiple parts failures and parts costs to repair.
These 2 videos are a guide to the common grind problems and it doesn’t really cover what happens when that gets ignored and not fixed and driven way deep into transmission failures like it sounds your having.
What is the torque spec for the counter shaft nut?
80ft-lbs
I recently got a b16 hydro transmission. Guy claims everything was working perfectly. Probably sat a few months. Anyways, I installed it and I have no reverse. My shifter feels like it goes into reverse but acts like a neutral. Literally feels like there’s no reverse gear in it because of the fact it doesn’t even grind or anything . What can be my issue?
You bought a transmission from a lier is the issue.
that the normal sound if you rotate the shaft
Yes…. That trans had zero issues and has at least 20k put on it since I made that video. The guy I built it for absolutely loves it..1-4th close ratio b16 with a LS 5th gear for freeway flying.
How can you tell if gears or synchros are bad?
In part 1 of the video synchro/gear inspection is explained and there is a spec sheet at the end of both videos of the synchro to gear clearance .85-1.1mm though I have seen that spec be good and it still grinds so I always replace all synchros if I have one apart, if the slider ring or gear teeth have any visible worn flat spots they should be replaced . If the trans is popping out of gear the gear hub/slider and shift fork should be replaced.
My transmission got stock on a gear after I rebuild the counter shaft.
Hey, whats the torque spec on that shaft Nut?
80ftlbs but holding the shaft is tough at best, its easier to just run it down with an impact onto where the previously staked dent lines up where it did before…
Is this a b16 s4c trans ?
All B series trams are the same internally as far as a rebuild is concerned, the only differences are gear ratios. In this video I put the lower freeway rpm 5th gears(main and countershaft) with the b16 1-4 tight ratio gears
You skipped right over putting the snap ring on !
The Snap ring in the outer case?…. It was edit out for all the cussing!🤣 I do these in my sleep.
This one turned out sweet with the b16 1-4th and the LS 5th gear, cruises down the freeway. Best combo for a fun daily
Anyone advice my s4c trsnny none lsd which lsd i can put
Not really…. I always liked factory lsd units but ITR trannys are rare and expensive.
5:55 Whatever lsd you pick there is a procedure in the service manual that needs to be followed to shim under the diff side bearings because thats the preload