Following these 2 videos, it took me 2 hours, but my spring clip was a pain to get off. Great instructions!! Thanks a ton for making it. During reassembly I noticed the little internal shift forks were not lined up and by making sure they were in line with the case off, the shift piece then slid easily back in place one the case was back together. Bearing and seal were super easy to remove with a screwdriver and rubber mallet. My gasket silicone says wait 24 hours before filling with oil, so I'll finish up tomorrow. Thanks again!!
Wow thanks for this video. Gonna start mine shortly. I was always a little leery splitting a transmission, you certainly boosted my confidence level with the very informative how to. Thanks again.
Nice video, well done!I was a technical instructor for an import car manufacturer years ago. I would recommend this video to anyone attempting this bearing replacement.Noise in neutral which goes away when you press the clutch pedal + noise in lower gears (1,2,3) is input shaft bearing. Noise with clutch pressed ( stationary, in neutral) is throw out bearing, this is much rarer than input shaft failure on Hondas.Input bearing noise in Honda transmissions has been a problem since 1970's!!! I've never understood why they've never improved the design🤔?
Got it! For some strange reason the top/end bearing and synchro got off one tooth---- enough to cause it to not go into 5th. I found it by accident just messing with it. Tooth pitch is NOT equal around the circumference of the synchro/fork ring/gear below the syncro. Once I got the teeth in the proper position it fell right into 5th! Enough for the day, time temp good for motorcycle time! Thanks for your help and for your time in making the video it was very informative and helpful.
Thank you for making this video. I fixed a customers 2003 Civic which had an imput bearing failure at 180k miles: the plastic cage holding the roller beatings had come apart allowing the bearings to cluster to one side and the shaft to move. When I pulled the input shaft out,all the bearings just fell into the case. I had to place the bearings back in-between the races to drive the bearing assy out of the case. All in all this was a pretty easy fix for a problem that usually means a used or rebuilt transaxle. If you are ever in Ma. look me up..I owe you one! Mark
Boom! Done! Thanks for the videos man, just got the car going again, said I would never pull a transmission on a fwd car again, but honestly it was not that bad.
Thanks for putting this up. I was quoted £390.00 (ex vat and parts) by a transmission rebuilder to do this job (that was if I delivered the box to them). I had a garage take it out for me as I don't have a hoist (I've removed boxes without a hoist but didn't fancy thee added stress. Cost me £35.00 for a bearing and seal kit from ebay which included the bearing on the other end of the same shaft (which came off easily). The smaller bearing was a little bastard to get out as I 'd let it go so long before doing it the centre of the race came off on the shaft so needed a little persuasion (ended up using a dremel to cut through the outer part of the race which was stuck in the case. Even with this extra hassle it took 3 hours maximum. I'll get the box back in in a couple of days so am keeping my fingers crossed until then.
Followed your video from part 1-part 2 to change the bearing and it works. No more noise and your video was helpful with our 08 honda fit sport. Thanks
BackYard Tech help! Mi case won’t get closed. In the last step the ring won’t snap on the bearing. It’s like something is preventing the case from getting down the last millimeter in order to let the ring match the bearing. I have opened the ring enough, actually it fits the upper outside of the bearing, and have used a hammer to gently push down the case. I’ve double and triple checked the little lever on the other shaft and it matches it’s place. The bearings are new and perfectly matched the old ones. I’m really out of options now
Great couple of videos. I picked up an 01 Civic a few months ago with 190,000 on the clock and I now know what the noise in my trans is. I will be doing this soon before the snow flies. I am sure you know this, put that bearing in the freezer for a few minutes and a heat gun on that case for a minute or two. The bearing will practically fall into the hole by itself and will stay when the temps normalize.
Ok ,now my civic is back to the road,i found the problem is when i'm put the white plastic rail back to the place of it, but when i'm close the case it is moved to under the shifter and block the shifter can't go down that is why i'm can't shift to gear number 1 and 2 ,if you have same problem like mine,open shifter ,look to the hole the plastic white rail should stay at left side "look from front of your car",if not ,you can use good size flat screw driver to push it back to the side to clear the way of shifter to move down. Thankyou back yard tech.
Mine just started making the noise on my 01 civic lx. Trans has 253k on it. Kid I bought it from put a 56k motor in n new clutch when it had 226 when I bought it. I've had it yr n half,but I beat tf outta this car lol. Thanks for these vids. Now I know wat it is n know wat to do.
Great video,I found that you had to go in through the selector shaft hole and slightly lift the main shaft in order for the snap ring to relocate back on bearing.
Hi, very informative, but your video only shows the 1 bearing and oil seal replaced. the larger bearing on the other end of the input shaft is not shown. Got a repair kit which included 2 bearings + 1 seal. Im replacing both, so is this bearing pressed on, and if it is, will I need a puller to remove it? Any info please.
2010 civic 5spd, mint, low miles. Low humming noise but not wheel bearings. Could it possibly be the bearing on the drive shaft? I read about tranny bearings but, I’m not getting any issues / sounds/ vibes changing gears. Humming persists if I throw it in neutral when driving.
All the synchros/forks will be centered in their positons and you can easily turn the input shaft. Unfortunately, installing the transmission case may cause one or two of these to drop down and without the shift linkage installed they will both be engaged at the same time so effectively locking the input and counter shafts together.
Thanks for such a detail video, great job! Follow your instructions step by step and got rid of the noise. FYI my bearing was not as bad as yours, actually all the balls look good, slight play when spinning by hand but still noise was noticeable inside car. Thanks to you all gone!
Excellent video. When you do the alignment at 5:13 will that allow you to successfully do the shift test at the end of the vid? I have my tranny case sealed back together and I am 99% sure I aligned it correctly but then I get paranoid that I bumped something or putzed with the gears one last time and moved it. Don't really want to crack it back ope if I don't have to and I definitely don't want to put it all back together and find a problem. It's already taking me too long! Thanks for putting the time into the vid.
Great video. I love at the end of the video, checking all the gears to make sure they work (the most important part): Badda bing badda boom manhandling those gears like its no-ones business
Really appreciate this video, I unfortunately bought a $900 refurbished trans because of the input bearing, because at the time I didn't know it would be that easy to change. Anyway, I also have a question, my "new" trans is popping out of 5th all the time and I'm looking to do this myself. I know I'll probably have to replace the gear and synchro set, but what I cant figure out is how many items I will need to press off and back on. Could you possibly give me some pointers?
Answered my own question I believe . I marked the inside of the differential (through the seal )with a marker and then walked through the gears while rotating the shaft from the same spot. Then I marked how far the differential rotated in each gear. Everything moved smoothly- forward gears as well as reverse. I think I’m good. Lol
Is there any way to reduce the noise without replacing it, for example if we assume that the transmission oil level is low, is that any good topping up oil to reduce noise level?
Awesome videos! They were great in helping me do this same job to my 2002 Civic. ---- Question for you or anyone - do any of you have a straight up and down picture looking into the transmission from where the "shift lever assembly" is installed with the four bolts? I installed my transmission and found out after I have it back into the car that I could not get it into 2nd gear. I removed the linkage and the shift lever assembly and found that the "oil gutter tray" was in the way/not installed correctly. I want to avoid removing and disassembling the transmission if I can and I think I moved the oil gutter tray into where it is supposed to be, but would love to see a picture with the way it is supposed to be.
Hey backyard tech.i have a 2002 civic ex and i was changing the bearings on the main shaft but when i was taking it out from the case the washers come apart and turned over .i didn't know which way it should put on so i just put it on by guessing . i notice ld a difference when shiting after i finish the job but im not sure if its the bevel wash that turn the wrong way so im asking if you can tell me which way to turn the bevel washer?
Checked as per 5:10 and rechecked. I have removed the snap ring that locks the shaft bearing to the case for ease of case installation/removal/testing. I have removed the reverse idler gear and operating mechanism, tried but still doesn't work. The rev/5th fork will move UP/reverse position (with case clutch end resting on the ground and gears pointing up) and will lower the reverse idler gear. It will go to the neutral position, but the fork/fork mechanism/rod will not go down -- presumably 5th gear position/rod will not go down into the case. On the end of the input shaft stack up is a large roller bearing/spacer/the piece with the metal tab/a synchro (?), then the shifter fork and fork ring then another synchro and another gear (a picture would work better) what I have found is I can remove the end bearing/metal tab piece/and top synchro and set it on the side so it's out of the equation. The fork ring will not fall down over the synchro underneath of it and engage into the gear below it like all the other gears do. This is where the binding is occurring and preventing the fork/rod assy from moving all the way down. Mind buster, because I was very careful when I removed the gear clusters for the bearing change, nothing is broken/bent/and have not "forced" anything. Would pictures help? Again thank you for your help. K
I'm having trouble getting the case off. Got it past the snap ring and have a gap of about 3/4 inch between the case and clutch housing but its stuck there. Thanks for any help.
PLEASE HELP --- I paid a shop $1000 to replace my bearings in 2002 Civic 5spd. 4 months later I lost 5th gear. Finally got around to disassembly and replace 5th gear synchro assembly w Honda OE parts. I noticed the plastic tray part was not inside the case when I opened it. Also, only about 1/3 quart of trans fluid.... I reassembled, checked everything. I can not turn the input shaft with my hand when trans is in Neutral. What did I do wrong??? I don't want to install it if it's not right. Thanks for any help. Great videos !
First of all great video of the job, made it very easy. I have a problem though. I put it all back together and reverse and fifth do not work. It's something I did/or didn't do, as it worked before. I took case back apart and I don't see what's wrong. I can lift the fork and make the reverse idler gear move up but can't figure out what's going on with 5th. When the shifter was installed I could lift the other lever and make the shifter go all the way up but it will not shift into 5th or reverse. Any help will be very much appreciated as my son really needs his car back. Thank you.
awesome video. my 1.6 civic sport makes a noise while in neutral, and goes away when clutch is pressed in, but it also makes a noise while driving in 1st 2nd and 3rd. Could it be just the thrust bearing? or the thrust and input shaft bearing ? thanks
I can't get to close the case I know it's the top main shaft bearing cause when I remove it the case goes in fine any tips, I'm working on it right now, putting it on the case half way in with gear oil hopefully I make it
Really appreciate the awesome video. Checking the gears and it's really hard to shift into reverse. 1-5th are like butter, but even when shifting back into first before going to 5th, I feel like I'm going to break something. Any ideas?
how do you check to make sure its in neutral before putting case back together? i have all steps done and ready to put rtv on and case together, but is there an easy way to know if its out of gear? before i contiue to close it up i just want to be sure . thanks
Make sure the shift sleeves (part where shift fork slide in to the shafts) are in the middle position. 2 sleeves on the main shaft and 1 on the counter shaft. hope this makes sense and helps.. The case will go on the trans in gear, just I find its easier in netral.
Can you give me the name and part# for the bearing and seal that you used. There are many to choose from. And also, is it easy or do you recomend replacing any other bearings or seals why its apart? I noticed they sell an overhaul kit with all the bearings and seals. My trans works and shifts fine but it makes that poular sound that many civics make when input shaft bearing goes to crap. Thanks
I usually only install the one bearing as its the most common to fail. You can replace all the bearings as good measure... your call there. Seal # 91216-PL3-005 Bearing # 91002-PS0-013
Hi BackYard Tech me and my dad recently did this and followed your videos. After putting everything back in the car the next day oil is coming out of the bell housing. Is the seal supposed to be installed with the flat side down like you said or the other way.
One question here. I just bought a brand new 19 civic 6MT and I realized there is a faint whirring sound when idle at neutral. When press the clutch, sound goes away. When releasing the clutch pedal, at the bite point, the sound comes back. The dealer says it’s normal and just a sound of rotating countershaft. Just want to have your second thought here. Is it normal to hear light sound from manual transmission at idle? Thanks.
@@crownedroyal2003 Thanks for replying. I did. I listened to 5 brand new civic 6MT today, I can hear whirring sound in all 5 vehicles when the clutch engages pass the bite point. However, I feel mine is louder. Maybe just a psychological thing.
@@crownedroyal2003 BTW, I'm learning stick shift now on this new cars, stall the engine about 10 times, jerky start and shift for the first 500 miles, pretty sure burn the clutch pretty bad. Do you think that would damage the transmission and cause the whirring sound to be louder?
Thanks, awesome video. Has given me the confidence to give it a go.One question please, are you sure the bearing should be tapped in via the outer ring? Only going on by what I've seen elsewhere, it seems the inner ring is used- maybe this is only on press fitted bearings? Thanks again.
gareth jones total time without experience which includes dropping the tranny/subframe by yourself... 3hrs. Someone with experience and without access to an industrial car lift less than 1hr. Rebuilding tranny with access to a press and bearing removal tool or jaw puller 1hr or less with tools on deck. No experience... 3hrs tops.
Thanks for this video. My car is making same noise your car was making in your video. Is there any way I can contact your company to service my car? Your video is great. Thanks. Moses
The transmission from a 96-00 civic is very similar but different. Main difference is the way shifter assembly operates. 96 -00 civic uses a rod style shifter and the one shown in the video is cable style.
BackYard Tech I have a '98 Civic. What would be the difference in assembly with the rod style shifter, as opposed to the cable style you show here? Thanks!
Rebekah Arnold You have to remove a allen key bolt from inside the clutch bell housing to allow the shifter assembly to come apart inside the transmission. When installing both the shafts with the shift forks you have to make sure the forks line up with rod assembly. Its not too difficult, once you get it apart its easy to figure out.
Same exact thing, they are both D series transmissions, what will be different is where the shifting mechanism attaches. This was on top of the trans, yours will be a rod on the underside coming from the back of the trans. Google D-series transmission rebuild and look on hondatech for other pictorials which will show you the particulars.
this seems so easy, im not sure how it is on mine yet, but the mazda protege repair manual basically said to give up and just buy a new one. all that work because one stupid bearing...
Awesome post, can't thank you enough!! Any thoughts on why your differential jumped right in like that? Mine is binding up so bad I had to heat the case with a torch just to get it back out, but it still wouldn't go in..
BackYard Tech Right on.. I left mine in the icebox overnight and it set right in there today - guess some gear oil would have worked too, but it's good! Had a hell of a time trying to get the ring clip to set at the top of the countershaft, until I found with the gear selector out you can just lift up on the shaft with a flathead, and it latches right in there =)
David Gough So just got everything back together and was running smooth as silk for a half a day or so.. then was checking everything underneath earlier and found a crack just around the plug for accessing the ring clip. Maybe I stressed the case too much trying to get it to re-seat, or either the ring didn't completely set in the groove there at first - when I very first drove it there was a high pitch squealing, like a dentist drill for about ten seconds, but then fine ever since (maybe about 15 miles or so). Just wondering if this is this the kiss of death and I'm starting over, or can the small crack (more like a seam, I actually thought it was one at first) around the plug area be repaired - maybe with JB Weld or something similar?
David Gough I would suspect the plug was over tightened. I would try JB weld first. Other wise the end case will have to be replaced. As for the noise squeal noise I have no idea what that could be. Hopefully nothing too serious!
BackYard Tech Well, the deed is done - took a dremel tool with a long straight diamond tip and Vee-d out the crack, even tried drilling into at at one end but i couldn't get a good angle, and the bit broke off inside : I. Then, I buttered it up with JB Weld and once that cured, drove it hard in all gears and everything seems real smooth, good to go. Just hope the tranny fluid doesn't eat through that JB weld any time soon.. Here's a link to some photos if anyone else comes across the same thing (not likely!) www.civicforums.com/forums/182-7th-gen/360858-transmission-case-cracked.html#post4669165
Kevin Tomoso Reverse is not a constant mesh gear as gears 1-5 are. When engaugeing reverse you are moving the reverse idler 3:56 to place between the main shaft and counter shaft. Reverse gears are also straight cut gears that why your hear a whine while moving in reverse. I hope this makes sense. Thanks for watching.
Oh ok, but what I mean to say is that when you move the shifter into reverse you hear a click from the transmission is that normal? You kinda didn't answer my question. But thanks for the other info though
Kevin Tomoso the reverse idler gear is an independent gear not mounted on either the main or counter shafts. It is on it's own little shaft and when you select reverse, a fork pushes the reverse gear down. There is a "collar" that comes out the bottom of the gear and that slaps against the inside of the transmission case when selecting the gear. That's the slapping or clicking sound.
WOULD THAT CONTRIBUTE TO 2MD GEAR POPPING OUT AT TIMES TOO? SO WHEN I CALL A TRANNY SHOP I TELL THEM I NEED OUTTER BEARING REPLACED? AND THANK YOU :) FOR THE REPLY
I'v got an input shaft bearing that makes noise, will a transmission fluid flush and change help make it less noisy? I really don't want to replace it.
I doubt it, the noise is coming from the metal of the bearing balls or race being deformed, fluid can't reform the metal into the correct position. If you are low on fluid then putting more in might muffle the sound a bit. Granted you may not want to do it but it obviously isn't hard with this guide that this guy made. You need a 10mm, 12mm,14mm, snap ring pliers, a mallet, a 27mm socket or adjustables and then something to tap the bearings back in. Oh and sealant and oil for afterwards. And if you want to do a full rebuild, maybe an 8mm, gear puller to pull the gears and an oven to heat the gears, spacers, shift collars and hubs up to 150-200 degrees so they slide back on the shafts easier.
I just had to replace my input shaft bearing on my 02 civic manual transmission and put altogether but my 5th and reverse won't go into any of those gears. I have 1-4th just fine just not 5th and reverse. All worked till I took apart and put back together. What could be the cause??? Someone on here help thank you
PLEASE HELP!!!!! Which washer goes onto the mainshaft first when reassembling, The beveled or the flat? And which way should the bevel face? Not one DIY or video has explained this, they all say, make sure to note the direction and order in which they go back on..... Please tell me because they fell off during the disassembly
I can't get it to shift into 5th or reverse gear now? could this be I didn't have the bracket aligned you talked about at 3:30? would that stop it from shifting into 5th gear as well?
Will this work on a 2006 Civic coupe 5speed? Noise goes away with clutch depressed when clutch is released it immediately whines. Brand new clutch kit throw out bearing flywheel turned new pilot bearing installed in crank. Fluid full etc
I am having issues with the plastic oil tray, when I placed the case back on and went to try the shift lever it snagged and broke a piece when shifting into 5th and reverse I believe. What could this be? I have a new oil gutter tray coming in next week, please comment, thanks in advance! !
Never had any issues with the oil tray interfering with the shift forks or gears. There must be a issue with getting the plastic tray being aligned correctly in the housing. You could try installing the plastic tray on the clutch housing first and see if that works for you.
I should note there are two alignment tabs that align the gutter plate into the transmission housing (end housing, not the clutch housing) If your having issues with it falling out during reassembly you could glue the gutter plate in to place. I have never had to do this and would only recommend this as a last resort.
my car is making a light whining sound in neutral, I can only hear it with the window open. no sound while in gear. the sound goes away when I press the clutch. comes back when I release it. is this the bearing making the noise? I have a 95 Accord
Why does reverse always make a clicking sound when engaging it? My transmission is perfectly fine its just it clicks while going to reverse. I notice they all make clicking sounds when going to reverse. Why is that? and what causes that sound??
HI ! I'm did replace my input shaft bearing after all i'm can't shift to gears number 1 and 2,it stuck,other 3,4,5,revert is OK, any thing i'm should check? Thanks for good information>
I would also look underneath the leather shift boot to make sure everything under it is working properly and nothing got stuck in it. If you have an accord or prelude built before 2000 there is a bolt that can snap that might do what yo have explained.
I don't think it would have a effect on operation of second gear. I would have the transmission shop diagnose these issues, interested to hear what they find.
@@crownedroyal2003 do you have a video of changing synchros in a 2004 crv MT? I have to do input bearing and my 2nd gear is a little gritty unless I have perfect rpm so guessing it is synchros worn out.
Following these 2 videos, it took me 2 hours, but my spring clip was a pain to get off. Great instructions!! Thanks a ton for making it. During reassembly I noticed the little internal shift forks were not lined up and by making sure they were in line with the case off, the shift piece then slid easily back in place one the case was back together. Bearing and seal were super easy to remove with a screwdriver and rubber mallet. My gasket silicone says wait 24 hours before filling with oil, so I'll finish up tomorrow. Thanks again!!
Wow thanks for this video. Gonna start mine shortly. I was always a little leery splitting a transmission, you certainly boosted my confidence level with the very informative how to. Thanks again.
Nice video, well done!I was a technical instructor for an import car manufacturer years ago. I would recommend this video to anyone attempting this bearing replacement.Noise in neutral which goes away when you press the clutch pedal + noise in lower gears (1,2,3) is input shaft bearing. Noise with clutch pressed ( stationary, in neutral) is throw out bearing, this is much rarer than input shaft failure on Hondas.Input bearing noise in Honda transmissions has been a problem since 1970's!!! I've never understood why they've never improved the design🤔?
One of the best car repair videos I've ever seen. Great Job!
Got it! For some strange reason the top/end bearing and synchro got off one tooth---- enough to cause it to not go into 5th. I found it by accident just messing with it. Tooth pitch is NOT equal around the circumference of the synchro/fork ring/gear below the syncro. Once I got the teeth in the proper position it fell right into 5th! Enough for the day, time temp good for motorcycle time! Thanks for your help and for your time in making the video it was very informative and helpful.
I'm currently in the same situation as this but do you remember how you aligned the syncro?
This is honestly the best tutorial i think I have ever seen. Great job!
Thank you for making this video. I fixed a customers 2003 Civic which had an imput bearing failure at 180k miles: the plastic cage holding the roller beatings had come apart allowing the bearings to cluster to one side and the shaft to move. When I pulled the input shaft out,all the bearings just fell into the case. I had to place the bearings back in-between the races to drive the bearing assy out of the case. All in all this was a pretty easy fix for a problem that usually means a used or rebuilt transaxle. If you are ever in Ma. look me up..I owe you one! Mark
Good work man, just one question, before you put the case back on you say make sure the gears are in neutral, how do you tell if its in neutral??
if its not you cant put on the shifter assembly. it will only fit in if its in neutral. you will understand if u start putting it back.
thank you for asking this!
Boom! Done! Thanks for the videos man, just got the car going again, said I would never pull a transmission on a fwd car again, but honestly it was not that bad.
Thanks for putting this up. I was quoted £390.00 (ex vat and parts) by a transmission rebuilder to do this job (that was if I delivered the box to them). I had a garage take it out for me as I don't have a hoist (I've removed boxes without a hoist but didn't fancy thee added stress. Cost me £35.00 for a bearing and seal kit from ebay which included the bearing on the other end of the same shaft (which came off easily).
The smaller bearing was a little bastard to get out as I 'd let it go so long before doing it the centre of the race came off on the shaft so needed a little persuasion (ended up using a dremel to cut through the outer part of the race which was stuck in the case. Even with this extra hassle it took 3 hours maximum. I'll get the box back in in a couple of days so am keeping my fingers crossed until then.
Followed your video from part 1-part 2 to change the bearing and it works. No more noise and your video was helpful with our 08 honda fit sport. Thanks
Hi, is it just one bearing that needs changing? My car makes a noise but when I engage the clutch the noise goes away
these videos were awesome thank you so much you saved me $2000. Btw these instruction work perfectly for my 2008 honda fit
Good to know this is the same procedure for a fit, which is a Honda Jazz in Europe.
BackYard Tech help! Mi case won’t get closed. In the last step the ring won’t snap on the bearing. It’s like something is preventing the case from getting down the last millimeter in order to let the ring match the bearing. I have opened the ring enough, actually it fits the upper outside of the bearing, and have used a hammer to gently push down the case. I’ve double and triple checked the little lever on the other shaft and it matches it’s place. The bearings are new and perfectly matched the old ones. I’m really out of options now
Great couple of videos. I picked up an 01 Civic a few months ago with 190,000 on the clock and I now know what the noise in my trans is. I will be doing this soon before the snow flies. I am sure you know this, put that bearing in the freezer for a few minutes and a heat gun on that case for a minute or two. The bearing will practically fall into the hole by itself and will stay when the temps normalize.
Thank you for this video. It was very helpful for my 2008 honda fit manual trans
Nice video man. But isn't it best to tight the bolts in a crossed pattern? Like the cylinder head bolts.
This is one of the best videos I've seen describing so much in detail..Thanks !
What was the yellow air tool you were using to remove the left over rtv sealant on the case?
Ok ,now my civic is back to the road,i found the problem is when i'm put the white plastic rail back to the place of it, but when i'm close the case it is moved to under the shifter and block the shifter can't go down that is why i'm can't shift to gear number 1 and 2 ,if you have same problem like mine,open shifter ,look to the hole the plastic white rail should stay at left side "look from front of your car",if not ,you can use good size flat screw driver to push it back to the side to clear the way of shifter to move down.
Thankyou back yard tech.
Mine just started making the noise on my 01 civic lx. Trans has 253k on it. Kid I bought it from put a 56k motor in n new clutch when it had 226 when I bought it. I've had it yr n half,but I beat tf outta this car lol. Thanks for these vids. Now I know wat it is n know wat to do.
Thank you for the video! Made my bearing replacement a breeze!
Great video,I found that you had to go in through the selector shaft hole and slightly lift the main shaft in order for the snap ring to relocate back on bearing.
Hi, very informative, but your video only shows the 1 bearing and oil seal replaced. the larger bearing on the other end of the input shaft is not shown. Got a repair kit which included 2 bearings + 1 seal. Im replacing both, so is this bearing pressed on, and if it is, will I need a puller to remove it? Any info please.
Really great videos, thank so much for these. Input shaft is starting to make a very very light noise when the clutch is out on mine
How do you double check if the gears are in neutral when you put the shaft back on ?
Jay_em2 3 handles must be aligned
Thanks will be doing this asap thanks heaps for great video
2010 civic 5spd, mint, low miles. Low humming noise but not wheel bearings. Could it possibly be the bearing on the drive shaft? I read about tranny bearings but, I’m not getting any issues / sounds/ vibes changing gears. Humming persists if I throw it in neutral when driving.
great video, only question is, how do you know when the gears are in neutral? around minute 6:15ish. thanks
I'd like to know too...
All the synchros/forks will be centered in their positons and you can easily turn the input shaft. Unfortunately, installing the transmission case may cause one or two of these to drop down and without the shift linkage installed they will both be engaged at the same time so effectively locking the input and counter shafts together.
Thanks for such a detail video, great job! Follow your instructions step by step and got rid of the noise. FYI my bearing was not as bad as yours, actually all the balls look good, slight play when spinning by hand but still noise was noticeable inside car. Thanks to you all gone!
Excellent video. When you do the alignment at 5:13 will that allow you to successfully do the shift test at the end of the vid? I have my tranny case sealed back together and I am 99% sure I aligned it correctly but then I get paranoid that I bumped something or putzed with the gears one last time and moved it. Don't really want to crack it back ope if I don't have to and I definitely don't want to put it all back together and find a problem. It's already taking me too long! Thanks for putting the time into the vid.
Hi. Is it generally good practice to oil the bearing so it would easier go into position ?
Good video thanks for sharing I have a question where can I get all the bearings and staff the I need to rebuild my trasmitían and how to order ?
One of the best videos...Greetings from India.
Great video. I love at the end of the video, checking all the gears to make sure they work (the most important part): Badda bing badda boom manhandling those gears like its no-ones business
I thought this bearing was called the main output shaft bearing or do I have it backwards?
Really appreciate this video, I unfortunately bought a $900 refurbished trans because of the input bearing, because at the time I didn't know it would be that easy to change. Anyway, I also have a question, my "new" trans is popping out of 5th all the time and I'm looking to do this myself. I know I'll probably have to replace the gear and synchro set, but what I cant figure out is how many items I will need to press off and back on. Could you possibly give me some pointers?
very nicely done, on BOTH parts.
Answered my own question I believe . I marked the inside of the differential (through the seal )with a marker and then walked through the gears while rotating the shaft from the same spot. Then I marked how far the differential rotated in each gear. Everything moved smoothly- forward gears as well as reverse. I think I’m good. Lol
Is there any way to reduce the noise without replacing it, for example if we assume that the transmission oil level is low, is that any good topping up oil to reduce noise level?
Awesome videos! They were great in helping me do this same job to my 2002 Civic. ---- Question for you or anyone - do any of you have a straight up and down picture looking into the transmission from where the "shift lever assembly" is installed with the four bolts? I installed my transmission and found out after I have it back into the car that I could not get it into 2nd gear. I removed the linkage and the shift lever assembly and found that the "oil gutter tray" was in the way/not installed correctly. I want to avoid removing and disassembling the transmission if I can and I think I moved the oil gutter tray into where it is supposed to be, but would love to see a picture with the way it is supposed to be.
Would this match 99 integra nd why would the bearing noise goes away when pressing the clutch pedal since there no pressure to the shaft ?
Not the same as a Integra. When the clutch pedal in depressed the transmission main shaft stops spinning.
Hey backyard tech.i have a 2002 civic ex and i was changing the bearings on the main shaft but when i was taking it out from the case the washers come apart and turned over .i didn't know which way it should put on so i just put it on by guessing . i notice ld a difference when shiting after i finish the job but im not sure if its the bevel wash that turn the wrong way so im asking if you can tell me which way to turn the bevel washer?
Bevel washer facing down on bearing.
@@crownedroyal2003 thanks man.i really appreciate it. If it place up , will it make the gear feel different when shifting through them?
Checked as per 5:10 and rechecked. I have removed the snap ring that locks the shaft bearing to the case for ease of case installation/removal/testing. I have removed the reverse idler gear and operating mechanism, tried but still doesn't work. The rev/5th fork will move UP/reverse position (with case clutch end resting on the ground and gears pointing up) and will lower the reverse idler gear. It will go to the neutral position, but the fork/fork mechanism/rod will not go down -- presumably 5th gear position/rod will not go down into the case. On the end of the input shaft stack up is a large roller bearing/spacer/the piece with the metal tab/a synchro (?), then the shifter fork and fork ring then another synchro and another gear (a picture would work better) what I have found is I can remove the end bearing/metal tab piece/and top synchro and set it on the side so it's out of the equation. The fork ring will not fall down over the synchro underneath of it and engage into the gear below it like all the other gears do. This is where the binding is occurring and preventing the fork/rod assy from moving all the way down. Mind buster, because I was very careful when I removed the gear clusters for the bearing change, nothing is broken/bent/and have not "forced" anything. Would pictures help? Again thank you for your help. K
I'm having trouble getting the case off. Got it past the snap ring and have a gap of about 3/4 inch between the case and clutch housing but its stuck there. Thanks for any help.
PLEASE HELP --- I paid a shop $1000 to replace my bearings in 2002 Civic 5spd. 4 months later I lost 5th gear. Finally got around to disassembly and replace 5th gear synchro assembly w Honda OE parts. I noticed the plastic tray part was not inside the case when I opened it. Also, only about 1/3 quart of trans fluid.... I reassembled, checked everything. I can not turn the input shaft with my hand when trans is in Neutral. What did I do wrong??? I don't want to install it if it's not right. Thanks for any help. Great videos !
First of all great video of the job, made it very easy. I have a problem though. I put it all back together and reverse and fifth do not work. It's something I did/or didn't do, as it worked before. I took case back apart and I don't see what's wrong. I can lift the fork and make the reverse idler gear move up but can't figure out what's going on with 5th. When the shifter was installed I could lift the other lever and make the shifter go all the way up but it will not shift into 5th or reverse. Any help will be very much appreciated as my son really needs his car back. Thank you.
+Kevin Durfee Alignment is incorrect. Refer to 5:10.
wikid video dud. cant find a video on a honda jazz/fit 1.4 2002-2008. is this the same gear box?
What direction does the spring (beveled) washer go on. Mine fell off.
How do you know if you have selected neutral? Cheers
What are the Honda part numbers would I need to order? I guess the seal and bearing?
awesome video. my 1.6 civic sport makes a noise while in neutral, and goes away when clutch is pressed in, but it also makes a noise while driving in 1st 2nd and 3rd. Could it be just the thrust bearing? or the thrust and input shaft bearing ? thanks
Lee Watkins mine does the same thing I'd be interested in finding out what the problem is
I can't get to close the case I know it's the top main shaft bearing cause when I remove it the case goes in fine any tips, I'm working on it right now, putting it on the case half way in with gear oil hopefully I make it
Really appreciate the awesome video. Checking the gears and it's really hard to shift into reverse. 1-5th are like butter, but even when shifting back into first before going to 5th, I feel like I'm going to break something. Any ideas?
how do you check to make sure its in neutral before putting case back together? i have all steps done and ready to put rtv on and case together, but is there an easy way to know if its out of gear? before i contiue to close it up i just want to be sure . thanks
Make sure the shift sleeves (part where shift fork slide in to the shafts) are in the middle position. 2 sleeves on the main shaft and 1 on the counter shaft. hope this makes sense and helps.. The case will go on the trans in gear, just I find its easier in netral.
Thank you, You're a great teacher :)
Excellent video - thank you!
Hello sir, my honda jazz is making the same bearing noise, what would you suggest. Can you fix mine. Please!!!!
do you have a video that shows one how to remove the gearbox from the car?
Thank you very much. great video.
Can you give me the name and part# for the bearing and seal that you used. There are many to choose from. And also, is it easy or do you recomend replacing any other bearings or seals why its apart? I noticed they sell an overhaul kit with all the bearings and seals. My trans works and shifts fine but it makes that poular sound that many civics make when input shaft bearing goes to crap. Thanks
I usually only install the one bearing as its the most common to fail. You can replace all the bearings as good measure... your call there.
Seal # 91216-PL3-005
Bearing # 91002-PS0-013
Is it the same for a 2002 civic si and an Acura rsx base kseries ? Thanks
Hi BackYard Tech me and my dad recently did this and followed your videos. After putting everything back in the car the next day oil is coming out of the bell housing. Is the seal supposed to be installed with the flat side down like you said or the other way.
mejz4 flat side towards the clutch.
BackYard Tech yes that's what we did good. I'll keep you updated if you'd like won't be able to get under the car till tomorrow afternoon
One question here. I just bought a brand new 19 civic 6MT and I realized there is a faint whirring sound when idle at neutral. When press the clutch, sound goes away. When releasing the clutch pedal, at the bite point, the sound comes back. The dealer says it’s normal and just a sound of rotating countershaft. Just want to have your second thought here. Is it normal to hear light sound from manual transmission at idle? Thanks.
It might be a normal noise. I would
ask them to listen to another new one to compare. They likely have one on the lot.
@@crownedroyal2003 Thanks for replying. I did. I listened to 5 brand new civic 6MT today, I can hear whirring sound in all 5 vehicles when the clutch engages pass the bite point. However, I feel mine is louder. Maybe just a psychological thing.
@@crownedroyal2003 BTW, I'm learning stick shift now on this new cars, stall the engine about 10 times, jerky start and shift for the first 500 miles, pretty sure burn the clutch pretty bad. Do you think that would damage the transmission and cause the whirring sound to be louder?
On the last check 9:12, if you have it in gear does the shaft has to lock or spin?
The input shaft should spin in gear and neutral.
@@crownedroyal2003 thanks I broke a bearing 😅 my first time lol
Hi
I have same problem i just remove gearbox today
So i will open gearbox tomorrow
Let's see which one gone
Shall i change all of them ?
Thank you
Thanks, awesome video. Has given me the confidence to give it a go.One question please, are you sure the bearing should be tapped in via the outer ring? Only going on by what I've seen elsewhere, it seems the inner ring is used- maybe this is only on press fitted bearings? Thanks again.
I've only tap on the outer ring. it's always worked for me.
Merci beaucoup pour cette vidéo très détaillée.
Thanks for the video. It is very useful
how long to do this job for the first time ?? will be doing the same thing my bearing has gone ??
gareth jones total time without experience which includes dropping the tranny/subframe by yourself... 3hrs. Someone with experience and without access to an industrial car lift less than 1hr. Rebuilding tranny with access to a press and bearing removal tool or jaw puller 1hr or less with tools on deck. No experience... 3hrs tops.
Thanks for this video. My car is making same noise your car was making in your video. Is there any way I can contact your company to service my car? Your video is great. Thanks. Moses
I have a 1996 honda civic. would the procedure be the same or is there a big difference in the transmissions?
The transmission from a 96-00 civic is very similar but different. Main difference is the way shifter assembly operates. 96 -00 civic uses a rod style shifter and the one shown in the video is cable style.
BackYard Tech I have a '98 Civic. What would be the difference in assembly with the rod style shifter, as opposed to the cable style you show here? Thanks!
Rebekah Arnold You have to remove a allen key bolt from inside the clutch bell housing to allow the shifter assembly to come apart inside the transmission. When installing both the shafts with the shift forks you have to make sure the forks line up with rod assembly. Its not too difficult, once you get it apart its easy to figure out.
Same exact thing, they are both D series transmissions, what will be different is where the shifting mechanism attaches. This was on top of the trans, yours will be a rod on the underside coming from the back of the trans. Google D-series transmission rebuild and look on hondatech for other pictorials which will show you the particulars.
this seems so easy, im not sure how it is on mine yet, but the mazda protege repair manual basically said to give up and just buy a new one. all that work because one stupid bearing...
What would be the problem if there is noise in all gear BUT 5 th gear , I really like the video doing this job this weekend.
+Chris Andrews I suspect the main shaft bearing.
is this similar for the 1990 model year b18 manual transmissions as well? because im changing my input shaft bearing on my da9 this week.
Digitalle Similar but not the same. The shift on the earlier ones is different.
Hey man. My 2003 Honda Civic is making a dragging noise only when it’s in gear what can it be?
Awesome post, can't thank you enough!! Any thoughts on why your differential jumped right in like that? Mine is binding up so bad I had to heat the case with a torch just to get it back out, but it still wouldn't go in..
I suspect when I installed the differential the bearing was not straight in bore. Thats why it fell into place once I placed some pressure on it.
BackYard Tech Right on.. I left mine in the icebox overnight and it set right in there today - guess some gear oil would have worked too, but it's good! Had a hell of a time trying to get the ring clip to set at the top of the countershaft, until I found with the gear selector out you can just lift up on the shaft with a flathead, and it latches right in there =)
David Gough So just got everything back together and was running smooth as silk for a half a day or so.. then was checking everything underneath earlier and found a crack just around the plug for accessing the ring clip. Maybe I stressed the case too much trying to get it to re-seat, or either the ring didn't completely set in the groove there at first - when I very first drove it there was a high pitch squealing, like a dentist drill for about ten seconds, but then fine ever since (maybe about 15 miles or so). Just wondering if this is this the kiss of death and I'm starting over, or can the small crack (more like a seam, I actually thought it was one at first) around the plug area be repaired - maybe with JB Weld or something similar?
David Gough I would suspect the plug was over tightened. I would try JB weld first. Other wise the end case will have to be replaced. As for the noise squeal noise I have no idea what that could be. Hopefully nothing too serious!
BackYard Tech Well, the deed is done - took a dremel tool with a long straight diamond tip and Vee-d out the crack, even tried drilling into at at one end but i couldn't get a good angle, and the bit broke off inside : I. Then, I buttered it up with JB Weld and once that cured, drove it hard in all gears and everything seems real smooth, good to go. Just hope the tranny fluid doesn't eat through that JB weld any time soon.. Here's a link to some photos if anyone else comes across the same thing (not likely!) www.civicforums.com/forums/182-7th-gen/360858-transmission-case-cracked.html#post4669165
Thanks for the video, does anyone know the oem part number of this bearing?
I know I’m a few years late but what is the part number for the seal...
Would a 95 Honda accord f22b1 engine be about the same?
Could this be the reason my car makes a whining noise from the transmission while in gear ?? Is it much different to do than a gmc transmission??
This could be the cause of your noise. I have never has a GM Transmission apart so I don't know if they would be similar.
BackYard Tech thanks for the info!! Appreciate it!
Kevin Tomoso Reverse is not a constant mesh gear as gears 1-5 are. When engaugeing reverse you are moving the reverse idler 3:56 to place between the main shaft and counter shaft. Reverse gears are also straight cut gears that why your hear a whine while moving in reverse. I hope this makes sense. Thanks for watching.
Oh ok, but what I mean to say is that when you move the shifter into reverse you hear a click from the transmission is that normal? You kinda didn't answer my question. But thanks for the other info though
Yes. Clicking is normal.
BackYard Tech what causes the clicking do you know if you don't mind telling me?
Kevin Tomoso the reverse idler gear is an independent gear not mounted on either the main or counter shafts. It is on it's own little shaft and when you select reverse, a fork pushes the reverse gear down. There is a "collar" that comes out the bottom of the gear and that slaps against the inside of the transmission case when selecting the gear. That's the slapping or clicking sound.
Oh I see, what is the collar for?
WOULD THAT CONTRIBUTE TO 2MD GEAR POPPING OUT AT TIMES TOO? SO WHEN I CALL A TRANNY SHOP I TELL THEM I NEED OUTTER BEARING REPLACED?
AND THANK YOU :) FOR THE REPLY
Dude. Awesome video. Thanks man.
I'v got an input shaft bearing that makes noise, will a transmission fluid flush and change help make it less noisy? I really don't want to replace it.
Flushing fluid will to correct a failed bearing.
I doubt it, the noise is coming from the metal of the bearing balls or race being deformed, fluid can't reform the metal into the correct position. If you are low on fluid then putting more in might muffle the sound a bit. Granted you may not want to do it but it obviously isn't hard with this guide that this guy made. You need a 10mm, 12mm,14mm, snap ring pliers, a mallet, a 27mm socket or adjustables and then something to tap the bearings back in. Oh and sealant and oil for afterwards. And if you want to do a full rebuild, maybe an 8mm, gear puller to pull the gears and an oven to heat the gears, spacers, shift collars and hubs up to 150-200 degrees so they slide back on the shafts easier.
Marcus Taber or you can just buy a press.
I just had to replace my input shaft bearing on my 02 civic manual transmission and put altogether but my 5th and reverse won't go into any of those gears. I have 1-4th just fine just not 5th and reverse. All worked till I took apart and put back together. What could be the cause??? Someone on here help thank you
PLEASE HELP!!!!!
Which washer goes onto the mainshaft first when reassembling, The beveled or the flat? And which way should the bevel face? Not one DIY or video has explained this, they all say, make sure to note the direction and order in which they go back on..... Please tell me because they fell off during the disassembly
beveled washer on the bearing. small edge facing down .. hope this helps
I can't get it to shift into 5th or reverse gear now? could this be I didn't have the bracket aligned you talked about at 3:30? would that stop it from shifting into 5th gear as well?
It is not likely aligned correctly.
what is not aligned correctly that shift mechanism?
Refer to 5:05. Not aligned with the case properly.
Will this work on a 2006 Civic coupe 5speed? Noise goes away with clutch depressed when clutch is released it immediately whines. Brand new clutch kit throw out bearing flywheel turned new pilot bearing installed in crank. Fluid full etc
The input bearings fail on the 2006-2011 Civics just as the previous generation did. The repair procedure is not the same though.
BackYard Tech ok.tku I took it to a trans shop for a bench job hopefully want be 10,000 dollars
truly excellent videos!
I am having issues with the plastic oil tray, when I placed the case back on and went to try the shift lever it snagged and broke a piece when shifting into 5th and reverse I believe. What could this be? I have a new oil gutter tray coming in next week, please comment, thanks in advance! !
Never had any issues with the oil tray interfering with the shift forks or gears. There must be a issue with getting the plastic tray being aligned correctly in the housing. You could try installing the plastic tray on the clutch housing first and see if that works for you.
I should note there are two alignment tabs that align the gutter plate into the transmission housing (end housing, not the clutch housing) If your having issues with it falling out during reassembly you could glue the gutter plate in to place. I have never had to do this and would only recommend this as a last resort.
How many pounds do you torque the 12mm case bolts thanks.
+Ryan Jones 20ft/lbs. Sorry for the late reply.
Whats the input shaft seal part # ?
Thank you very much 👍🏻🇧🇷
my car is making a light whining sound in neutral, I can only hear it with the window open. no sound while in gear. the sound goes away when I press the clutch. comes back when I release it. is this the bearing making the noise?
I have a 95 Accord
+Dan H Sounds like its coming from the transmission. When press down in the clutch and shafts in the transmission stop turning.
Why does reverse always make a clicking sound when engaging it? My transmission is perfectly fine its just it clicks while going to reverse. I notice they all make clicking sounds when going to reverse. Why is that? and what causes that sound??
HI !
I'm did replace my input shaft bearing after all i'm can't shift to gears number 1 and 2,it stuck,other 3,4,5,revert is OK, any thing i'm should check?
Thanks for good information>
I would check the check balls to make sure they are installed properly. Make sure nothing is installed incorrectly in the shifter mechanism.
I would also look underneath the leather shift boot to make sure everything under it is working properly and nothing got stuck in it. If you have an accord or prelude built before 2000 there is a bolt that can snap that might do what yo have explained.
CAN U TELL ME IF THE ISB IS THE REASON WHY MY 2000 CIVIC HAS A WHININGG SOUND ACCELRATING 4TH AND 5TH GEAR AND RANDOMLY 2ND GEAR POPS OUT
I would suspect the bearing on the opposite end of the main shaft.
I don't think it would have a effect on operation of second gear. I would have the transmission shop diagnose these issues, interested to hear what they find.
YEAD DOESNT POP OUT OF 2ND ALOY, MAYBE ONCE A WEEK
Do I put rtv on both mating surfaces or just one?
Just one surface. Be sure both surfaces are good and clean.
@@crownedroyal2003 do you have a video of changing synchros in a 2004 crv MT? I have to do input bearing and my 2nd gear is a little gritty unless I have perfect rpm so guessing it is synchros worn out.
Part number for the seal?
Top job my friend, good info.
Can you describe how the washers on the input shaft go? Thank you
geosport1 Wave washer goes towards the bearing.
shim (flat washer) goes inbetween the spring/wave washer and top of mainshaft.